It's that time of the year to take a stroll into the indie fruit orchards and hopefully encounter a haunting floral veil to another time and place. Last year I found my beloved Exsanguinated on an excursion into the dark crypts of Nui Cobalt's Autumn collections, what will I find this year? One Note At A Time: Murder of Crows (A gothic gathering of blue-black plumage and keen, glittering eyes. Nag champa, smoldering myrrh, and tobacco sparked with clove bud, violet, fir needle, star anise, and currant. Anoint your pulse points in preparation for nocturnal magic, dreamwalking, or astral travel.) *purchased vial A gothic ode to everything mysterious and darkly romantic with a familiar scent memory of Bad Moon Rising sans the blueberry. If anything Murder of Crows is darker in nature with a distinct tobacco, clove, violet and hidden animalistic-quality medley under the resins and incense that appear to the nose first. A very aptly named scent creation that even carries a clever representation of the oily sheen of black and iridescent feathers. For longevity, Murder of Crows goes on to enchant my senses and then fades at 5 hours and makes me wish for more rainy cold days of gothic-themed reading and researching macabre obscure subjects of history. Apple Picking (The orchard at its peak, limbs heavy and bushels brimming. Barely-ripe apples, green leaves, rain-soaked soil, wicker baskets, and golden hay. Wear this powerful prosperity blend to call forth wealth and abundance. Anoint money charms and mojo bags to increase their power.) *purchased vial I said it once and I'll say it again, Nui Cobalt has some of the best apple blends to be found in the indie realm! Apple Picking is a pure autumnal delight with piles of realistic wet apple skin and freshly bitten juicy flesh all arranged on top of a nestling of sun-warmed hay. It's a trip back to the apple orchards of my youth collecting apples with my great aunt to make her infamous pies and dumplings. I adore this soothing fragrance and how it morphs every time I wear it on my skin or in my hair, today more dry wooden basket and apple skin is present to my nose when the winds gust. Cauldron Cider (Comfort in a bottle. A warm brew of honeycrisp apples simmered for days with ginger root, black clove bud, cardamom, cassia, and star anise. Wear this cozy blend for solace and resolution. Anoint mojo bags for peace of mind and a general sense of well-being.) *purchased vial On me, Cauldron Cider is intoxicating spiced full-bodied apple ginger ale with star anise pods bobbing on top. I fully admit I'm a bit enamoured with this one and it indeed smells like fall and is spicey and a bit woodsy on the long dry down. This is another scent potion that could be served as you go wild in a pumpkin patch; in ways, it reminds me of Drunk Pumpkin sans the smokey booze and pumpkin. It's uplifting yet darkly seductive with the star anise and clove. For longevity, I can expect a full night of apple spiced apple ginger ale wafting around me from my skin and my curls. Owl in the Oak Tree (The golden Autumnal sister of Yultide's Owl in the Evergreen. Tawny feathers and bright amber eyes hold a steady gaze among the changing leaves. Regal oakwood, sugar maple and mahogany, slender white limbs of birch, and cold rocks covered in emerald moss. Wear this woodland blend to align with the spirits of Nature and the galvanizing energy of the forest.) *sample arrived with my order, thank you so much Nui Cobalt Designs When first applied I get the impression of entering a thick grove of pine trees with a breeze of ghostly violets gusting out of the winds then the earthy notes of moss and bark begin to materialize with a mintiness I have come to understand my chemistry changes birch into. It's a mix of mint and cold earth for a few hours then the distinct unboiled maple sap from a wet tree arrives with warm amber. Owl in the Oak Tree is a meditative scent escape. Ominous Orchard (Slender branches silhouetted against the evening sky, sending the last of their sweetness into the gathering gloom as the pale moon turns the clouds to silver. This clean and bracing blend enlivens the senses and sharpens the mind. Crisp apples, young green growth and a wisp of deer musk accord on the chilly air.) *purchased vial If Apple Picking is an innocent nostalgic visit to the apple orchard Omnionus Orchard is the fateful moment an attractive and mysterious stranger crosses your path and holds out an apple to you with a smouldering stare and intense soul (most definitely a Scorpio)! Do you follow them into the gathering night and the unknown? I know I would! The clean musk mingled with the sweet apple is just oddly suggestive and I'll just tuck this one away for "someday", haha. ______________________________________________________ So I lost my heart in the dark orchard, what will I find on the Big Island? Let's find out! *all of the following perfumes were sent for an honest review, thank you so much Forest and Josh. Brunch on the Lanai (A luxurious scent to attract wealth and pleasure in all of its forms. Mimosas, french toast with lilikoi preserves, and the gentlest hint of pikake on the breeze though sheer cotton curtains.) I get a bracing sweet airiness of orange and tart exotic fruits and something like floral vanilla honey. It's exceedingly pretty and uplifting. There is a touch of expensive laundry detergent tickling my nose which must be the "sheer cotton curtains", I usually have a strong aversion to anything like laundry or shampoo, but I can't stop amusing myself by creating a mini cloud of a vision of a bright tropical morning by gently waving my wrist in front of my nose and letting the soft sweetness take me away. I don't know where I would wear Brunch on the Lanai, but I'll sure find a fitting fun place too. This one is a keeper! Ohana (A comforting scent to welcome you, ease your mind, and make you feel at home wherever you are. Soft sand, sunwashed driftwood, the cooling shade of the front porch and a plate of homemade haupia malasadas (coconut custard donuts). Oh, this is another keeper as vanilla sugar-dusted coconut dessert and salty wood wafts around me. I get another exotic fruit appearing at the edges that has a hint of honey and the drydown carries a bit of unexpected smoke. It's lovely and like Brunch on the Lanai, it's uplifting and transporting. I'm a little taken aback how much I love these unfamiliar genre of notes. They are so happy and sunny. I'm so glad I tried something completely out of my comfort zone, as I can honestly say, Nui Cobalt Designs turned me in a coconut lover. Plumeria Lei 2020 (A traditional greeting in the Hawaiian Islands is to place the lei briefly over one's own head, then drape it over the shoulders of the guest. The Islands' most abundant bloom symbolizes new beginnings, love, and all that is good in life. Our plumeria accord is a delicate bouquet of osmanthus, peony, lime blossom, and tuberose lifted by subtle glimmers of Asian pear and sugared lemon. Wear this uplifting scent to brighten your mood and banish malaise.) Ah, I knew my finicky chemistry would sense my happiness and be determined to ruin something for me, sadly Plumeria Lei has been chosen. I had such high hopes for this vial especially with the listed lime blossom and pear and I'm sure it would be stunning on anyone else, but on me, overwhelming expensive hair shampoo takes over after a few marvellous seconds of velvety blooms and lovely citrus. Oh, bother this one was so promising for those few precious moments. Does anyone want to trade skin chemistries? (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Waipio Valley (The Valley of the Kings is adorned with towering waterfalls, a crescent black sand beach, and a palpable primal energy. This sacred space has survived two tsunamis without a single casualty. Dark myrrh and vetiver, sand-smoothed teak wood, kava kava, rain-drenched ti leaves, and a subtle touch of dry coconut husk. Wear this mysterious scent to wrap yourself in fiercely loving protection. Anoint black candles to ward off malicious energy and restore a sense of security.) The black sands of the big islands are something I dearly would love to see someday and until then I will wear this soothing woody resiny blend and let my mind slip away and imagine my toes sinking into warm ancient sands. The perfume differs of Waipio Valley slightly to my nose versus the candle I own of the same name, I get more salty teak wood in the candle while my skin amps the dry smokey coconut and resins. There is also a mysterious minty-like note I get that I'm beginning wondering is myrrh. It's still all a great fragrance to fall asleep wearing or read by and yes, I do feel curiously protected. Sister Of Stars (She gazes skyward, matching cosmic rhythms that send her mind aloft. Eyes like lightning-struck silver reflected in dragonflies’ wings. My Sister sees me. Dew-drenched linden blossom, Persian lime, blueberry seltzer, one white rose, and the subtlest insinuation of fresh garden mint.) Superb! This could very well be a starry-eyed sister scent of Manta Ray. Ah, Nui Cobalt's dewy realistic roses just take away my senses and make me beam, they are gorgeous in every way and here in Sister Of Stars, the nectar of the sweet white rose blends so perfectly with the fruity tartness of the effervescent blueberry and lime. The promised mint is indeed there and shows up after a few moments adding a unique gentle green herbal twist to everything. You won't find this combination in the department stores. And now Part II of my trove of scent potions and autumnal olfactory delights from Nui Cobalt Designs (Thank you so much, Forest and Josh, for the press samples!) For longevity: Shortest- Creative Spark at barely 2 hours and for Longest- The Widow Wore Red at 19 hours. Pumpkins & Spidersilk (An autumnal variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, pumpkin chai, hot cinnamon rolls, nutmeg, clove, allspice, and a scant drop of honey. Wear to warm your heart, lift your spirits, and take time for simple pleasures.) ✴Please note: this perfume contains cinnamon, and should be avoided by those with cinnamon sensitivities. ✴Purchased bottle I have searched near and far for the comforting spirit of fall bottled and Nui Cobalt Designs presented exactly what I have been desiring for so long. The notes say purely gourmand, but the nose receives layers of heartening autumnal therapy with warm spices, a kiss of sweet creamy pumpkin icing and the familiar "cold" vanilla element of Starlight & Spidersilk underneath waiting to deepen and morph with the passing hours. I also detect the slightest drop of sandalwood and unexpected realistic cream cheese frosting and a wisp of smoke. It's full of delightful surprises and it's finally home. Black Moon (This proliferant perfume is teeming with generative force and fierce fecundity. It nourishes and the seeds of intention, filling them with raw vitality. It's a master of manifestation, propelling invocations toward fulfillment ... so be careful what you wish for. Dark incense coils about an ebony altar abounding in spiced fig preserves, saffron-poached plums, green mandarin, and honey on the comb. Black Moon is handcrafted and charged under the rare auspices of the second consecutive New Moon in a single sign. Like the Blue Moon, this event holds uniquely amplified power to bless new beginnings and access hidden reserves of magical potency.) ✴Press Sample for review The notes selected for Black Moon curiously capture something slowly awakening within myself with a sweetness of the honey and bright mandarin lightly masking a dual darkness of plum, incense and hidden clove underneath that I can't help but to gravitate towards. The more and more I'm delving into different interests and topics I'm finding I have quite a bit of dark moon energy about myself that I hide (and even deny) every day and I need to just love about my being and embrace. 2020 was a year of unexpected change and transformation for myself and Black Moon is one of those fragrances that will serve as a scent memory for me as I continue on my journey. Brigid's Fire (A warming blend to honor the Awakening Goddess and invoke her inspiration. Spiced fig and apricot preserves, smoldering patchouli and pipe tobacco swirled with tannic black tea and languid benzoin. Wear this luminous scent to stoke the fires of creativity and vitality at your sacred center.) ✴Free Sample with Previous Purchase A very aptly named fragrance as I can clearly smell the heat from the spices intertwined with the tobacco and fruit giving the overall nifty impression of heat and flames. After a few moments, the tannic black tea makes itself known but never turns soapy which is some type of unexplained magic in itself. For longevity Brigid's Fire burns out on me about 6 hours and leaves with an aroma of warm clove with hint of apricot honey and metal-like patchouli. Hekate Deichteira (The Teacher. The Revealer. She whose torch illuminates the path so that experience may become wisdom. A chaplet of laurel, olive leaves, sage, rosemary, acacia wood, white lotus, moonflower, deep purple heliotrope, claret, and black fig. Wear to enliven the mind and enhance perception. Anoint purple candles to increase psychic abilities.) ✴Press Sample for review On application this perfume smells like rich olive oil and meditative herbs then this sweetness of the heliotrope and wine start to appear and it turns into herbal fruit marshmallow on me. The velvety white florals add some mystical aquatic impression to Hekate Deichteira and the more I wear this the more I enjoy it and find new facets that turn my head to attention. Not your everyday type of fragrance but I find this soft and relaxing and it goes perfectly with an icy windy day you can curl up with a good book (or take a nap wearing). The Widow Wore Red (A shameless concoction of spiced plum, lascivious musk, patchouli, tart cherry, sweet pipe tobacco, warm gingerbread drizzled with vanilla caramel dusted with clove, coriander, and cardamom. Wear when you're ready to liberate yourself from sorrow and doubt, to abandon all pretense of timidity and let your Fierce flag fly.) ✴Purchased So you want to smell like the Grand High Witch from The Witches or just a bit dangerously delicious and provocative, well Nui Cobalt has a fragrance for you... The Widow Wore Red is a sweet "come closer" type of perfume and then the dark spiced fruit and under notes come out to play and it has a fiendish beautiful side that others around are sure to notice. Exactly what I envision enrobing one of my favourite characters from fiction and fantasy film (and it even smells "violet and glowing"). I love how this perfume makes me feel and how it encourages some themed fun! Woodsmoke & Spidersilk (A cozy variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, aged oakwood, roasted pistachio, mahogany, oud, Peru balsam, amyris, and toasted marshmallow. Wear for calming and comfort. Warm in an oil diffuser to cast a spell of Hygge within the home.) ✴Press Sample for review I am weak in the presence of a good smoke blend and Woodsmoke & Spidersilk makes my senses just swoon. This perfume perfectly straddles the autumn and winter mark and the familiar Starlight & Spidersilk serves as the perfect backdrop of this perfume creating the idea of a romantic haunting memory of a smouldering fire and basis of a beautiful complex mystery. I am the alluring ghost of Manderley in this perfume. Blue Moon at Samhain (A luminous potion for casting your most powerful spells. Smooth driftwood glistening with sea salt, pearl gardenia, oat milk, coconut flesh, forget-me-not, neroli, and a trace of lavender. Wear to enhance intuition or amplify magical potency. Anoint ritual candles to invoke Lunar deities and nocturnal spirits.) ✴Press Sample for review A lovely salty gardenia fragrance opens with Blue Moon at Samhain and the feeling of vintage elegance follows along with soft creamy powder. This is what to wear when you want to feel radiant and a bit mystical in your surroundings. I wore this the first time the day after Halloween and it oddly reminded me of the flash of a moonstone. If Beauty didn't already captivate me, Blue Moon at Samhain would have been coming home. I hope it returns next year. Beauty (It illuminates your charms and amplifies allure, encouraging self care and the avid appreciation of your finest qualities. An exquisite air of Caribbean teakwood, nectarine, water lilies, Magdagascar vanilla, heirloom roses, tobacco flower, and lavande de Provence over smooth tonka bean. Wear any time you need to be reminded of your innate perfection. Employ in rituals of attraction to awaken your inner radiance.) ✴Press Sample for review Few times can I recall when a perfume has made me feel so positive and "comfortable" about myself and I waited far too long to try Beauty. I was initially concerned about the listed teak wood and tobacco flower, but these notes are so subdued if not completely absent to my nose and I only receive a soft glowing aura of downy powder with a kiss of citrus that has caught me off guard at different times and I have been surprisingly finding myself stopping to contemplate in the looking glass several times long after midnight and noticing subtle pleasant features about my person (I recently lost 50 pounds so new things and positive changes in the mirror are a welcome sight). Perhaps it's the simple power of persuasion or something magically swirled in with this blend, but whatever it is this is a perfume to wear when you need a little morale boost and a nudge to hold your head up just a little higher when you enter a room or speak to a stranger. Crone's Cottage (Encouragement in a bottle. This witches' brew is imbued with strength, fortitude, and optimism. Oatmeal cookies still warm from the oven, beeswax candles on the windowsill, a warm cup of strong black tea with milk, and a generous dollop of honey. Wear this heartening scent to prepare for any challenge and restore a sense of self-confidence.) ✴Purchased This blend starts out almost boozy smelling akin to Flummery from their popular Great Bakers Challenge/April Fool's collection then it settles right down to dried spiced apple rolled honey oat clusters and a piping hot cup of black tea you want to wrap yourself in. I'm constantly amazed with Nui Cobalt's tea blends and Crone's Cottage shares the same tannic warmth from Stinger which was also a surprise success with my finicky skin chemistry. There is no soapiness to report here and as this vial is slowly aging the realistic beeswax Nui Cobalt excels at is coming more noticeable to my nose hours later along with some lingering apple oat spice. Daughter of the Dark Moon (The Sorceress sings as dusk descends, dressed in unencumbered starlight. Her laughter weaves a living tapestry of ancient and sacred truths. She awakens me to my power. Black coconut, nocturnal jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, white sandalwood, dried lavender, sheer cotton, and a trace of Tahitian vanilla.) ✴Press Sample for review A clean fresh perfume with tuberose sharing the spotlight with lovely nocturnal jasmine. The coconut lends a smooth slight tropical quality to this and the drydown is this shop's trademark divine creamy sandalwood and vanilla. This one is a like not a love and I'm going to enjoy Daughter of the Dark Moon in my whipped soap and a deep hair conditioning treatment some night soon. Hekate Potnia Theron (Mistress of Animals. Lady of the Wild Beasts. She who cherishes all who slither and soar, who climb and crawl. Green fig, cedar, cypress, orris root, golden hay, toasted oats, warm suede, woodland musk, and tonka. Wear to align yourself with Nature and ignite your primal wisdom.) ✴Press Sample for review This oil opens with a sweet grape skin then morphs to buttery suede and oats. It reminds me a little of White Tailed-Deer, but with more grounding earthy elements and it isn't like cream dipped suede with sugared berries, Hekate Potnia Theron has a bit of masculine bite which isn't for me either. I will say this one stays close to the skin even with the suede and woodland musk. It's a keeper I'm just not sure where I would wear this. Sister of Stars (Her chin is always up. I lift my own. We scan the golden, sunlit clouds. Time cannot touch this effortless afternoon. A smile and a tilt of her head. “This sucks,” she teases. And I couldn’t have found a better way to praise the day. My Sister elevates me. Spun sugar, lavender water, two chilled mojitos, teakwood beach chairs, melted white amber, the softest cotton sundress, and clouds.) ✴Press Sample for review I can't recall if this was part of the Big Island collection or not but Sister of Stars smells like a tropical drink melting on my wrist. On application, it's a bracing sugared mint then gentle hidden citrus appears along with soft lavender. At this point, it does lean a tad into the expensive laundry detergent area, but the final dry down of the sweet white amber saves this experience for me. I like how Sister of Stars smells on my skin but I think this would be amazing in my hair as an argan oil additive. Porch Swing (A lazy Autumn afternoon when the sun is setting gold. Oakwood, amber, pear preserves, skin-warmed cotton, fresh rhubarb, rosemary, and tea. Wear this calming, centering blend to bring you back to the present moment. Warm in a diffuser to set a relaxed mood in your home.) ✴Press Sample for review There's always exceptions to my nose and lists of likes and Porch Swing manages to hit them all. Yes, it does smell like expensive laundry soap at different points of wear and yes the tart rhubarb amplifies on me, but the rich sweetness of the pear preserves, rosemary with tannic tea and the stunning finish of the warm amber all saves the day and I can't stop dabbing this lovely blend on. It brings to mind a carefree summer picnic and twinkling fireflies off in the distance. What can I say I'm a sucker for a good pear note and Nui Cobalt has some of the best accords. Cut & Clear (A no-nonsense banishing blend to expel negativity from your life. Fresh lemon zest, purifying benzoin, black raspberry bramble with the thorns left on, rainwater, Silver Needle white tea, angelica, garden mint, crushed white peppercorn, and bay leaf, infused with home-grown lemon thyme and lemon verbena. Wear to repel bad influences and hurtful people. Anoint papers inscribed with the name(s) of whomever you want to remove from your circle, set your magical intention, then burn the paper on a Saturday during the waning moon.) ✴Press Sample for review If you are looking for an energizing citrus zip, look no further than this blend. To me, Cut & Clear smells like lemonade pepper tea with rolled up lemon verbena and thyme on the side of the glass. Refreshing and electrified with an earthy greenness underneath. I'm definitely going to be reaching for this vial in the summer months and sprinkling a couple of drops in my bathwater. Hekate Enodia (She of the Crossroads. Lady of the Ways. The goddess who guards, guides, and grants passage. An offertory incense of copal and myrrh, clove bud, star anise, sweet pipe tobacco, Bosc pear, bitter almond, tonka bean, freshly turned earth, and a sprig of rosemary. Wear to improve navigational skills, both geographic and philosophic. Warm three drops in a diffuser as an offering to the Divine Feminine) ✴Press Sample for review This is the delicious and mysterious lovechild of The Bees Knees and Snowball Fight. I'm weak for pear blends and this one is gorgeous and has in its wake smooth vanilla almond, anise (which is another weakness for me) and a drizzle of hidden honey I recognize from the above mentioned perfumes. I also receive a medicinal waft of rosemary on the long drydown which added with the almond and anise gives Hekate Enodia a different edge. If I didn't already own bottles of The Bees Knees and Snowball Fight, Hecate Enodia would be coming home. Stories & Spidersilk (A scholarly variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, aging leather-bound books, pipe tobacco, and towering wooden shelves. Wear to honor the spirits of wordsmiths past, to invoke your literary Muse, and to enhance eloquence.) ✴Press Sample for review Stories & Spidersilk was another fragrance that almost accompanied me out on Halloween night as I had the notion weeks before to don a fitted red trenchcoat, hat and yellow scarf and let 90s fantasies take wing finally as a dream Carmen Sandiego costume but then I found the perfect aristocrat vampire outfit and scrapped that plan. Still, I can't get the idea of this being the perfect perfume for the cunning seductive ex-detective. The realistic leather from a well-thumbed tome opens this scent potion and a hint of salt from the aged pages along with wet ink becomes noticeable as the minutes tick by, the familiar Spidersilk serves as the suggestive base and I notice a wisp of lily of the valley hiding in the far background. This really is the scent of a wicked brilliant mastermind who loves to play mind games. Spring-Heeled Jack (An ode to the cultural phenomenon of the Urban Legend: the shared stories that reveal our collective fears and darker inclinations.London fog, rain-soaked cobblestones, blue Atlas cedar, bergamot, charcoal tweed, grey musk, and the fading scent of Victorian violet powder.) ✴Press Sample for review Meet Gremlin's sibling fragrance, this one has the same intriguing quasi-atmospheric elements, but for me, Spring-Heeled Jack is more wearable (I love Gremlin but that blend leans too masculine than I feel comfortable wearing out; I'm saving it for my future fella). On me the clean sweet bergamot amplifies for a good hour and sets the scene with the wet environment notes then this incredibly realistic tweed material aroma comes out of nowhere along with grounding smoky cedar and these accords wrap about my senses and completely take me away to another era of refinement and complete the story. Surprisingly the listed violet is very subdued on my skin which tends to amp that floral, that's another kind of magic right there. Nui Cobalt deserves so much more recognition especially when it comes to their realistic tactile blends and way with tricky florals. Second Harvest: Fruit (Luscious abundance. Homemade pies and preserves brimming with spiced pear, blackberry, apricot and currant. Wear this confection to attract pleasure and feelings of contentment. Anoint pink or gold candles to manifest luxury and creature comforts.) ✴Press Sample for review All these luscious dark notes should equal my favourite blend of them all but alas my chemistry morphed everything to sticky cherry cough syrup. In the beginning Second Harvest: Fruit has serious potential as it brings to mind Welch's Fruit Snacks I fondly remember as a child but then it all changes. I'm going to use this one in whipped soap in the coming weeks. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Incense & Spidersilk (A meditative variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, light and dark amber, copal, nag champa, frankincense, and myrrh. Wear to quiet the thoughts and open the mind. It is particularly helpful in restoring calm after stressful encounters.) ✴Press Sample for review Oh dear, this one. I've tried several times and my chemistry transforms all the lovely notes into soapy incense that gives me a pinching headache. Reading others' stellar impressions it is apparent this is the portion of the perfume wearing that my chemistry has decided it sensed my happiness long enough and will destroy everything I was excited about. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Calico Cat (A dynamic blend to keep you resilient and adaptable. Tawny suede, pale sandalwood, toasted coconut, deep amber, and golden honey are accented with bright satsuma, and spiced tamarind. Wear for smooth navigation of challenges. Anoint the tools of your profession to turn obstacles into opportunities.) ✴Please note: this perfume contains cinnamon, and should be avoided by those with cinnamon sensitivities. ✴Press Sample for review True to its name this perfume is bright, playful and relaxing to be in the presence of. On me, the sandalwood and honey are dominant as the top notes of the light tropical fruits fade away after a few minutes. It reminds me in ways of Valkyrie but softer so now I think Calico Cat as the cuddly companion scent. I love both of them for different reasons. Creative Spark (An illuminating blend to summon your muse and elevate your skills. Lime zest, sparkling white grapefruit, bergamot, allspice, sun-warmed teak, cardamom pods, amber resin, frankincense, fresh green fig, and a wisp of Chinese trumpet lily. Apply to pulse points when engaging in your craft. Anoint the tools of your trade or dress candles to invoke artistic acumen.) ✴Press Sample for review Here's another blend that helps me "put on my thinking cap" as uplifting citrus and spice make the perfect combination and are further deepened by the addition of the warm teak wood and resins. It's an overall wonderful fragrance but sadly fades quickly so I need to jot my inspired ideas down quickly whilst I wear Creative Spark otherwise they are gone. Mystery of Maple Walk (Whispering leaves flutter down in shades of livid crimson. Their secrets die with nightfall and the silent portent of snow. This comforting blend inspires relaxation and a deep sense of calm contentment. Sugar maple swirled with spices, dragon's blood, dark woods, frozen flakes of vanilla and a single drop of the blackest black cherry.) ✴Press Sample for review Mmmph there is something about black cherry for me that gets my immediate approval when it is noticed and Mystery of Maple Walk has a lovely note of it that is twirled about warm vanilla, smoked sandalwood and velvety resin. The maple and dragon's blood does tend to amplify on my skin after a bit so I prefer to wear Mystery of Maple Walk in my curls where the sandalwood really shines with the black cherry. This one is a definite keeper. Seduced By Spidersilk (A provocative variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, cherry wine, dragon’s blood and amber resins, tupelo honey, and an irresistible blend of aphrodisiac spices: cardamom, clove, ginger root, coriander, and cassia. Wear to ensnare the object of your desire and to ignite carnal passions. Please note: this perfume contains cinnamon, and should be avoided by those with cinnamon sensitivities) ✴Purchased/Currently available on the site The time's come to play with this scent potion as I get this intoxicating mix of sweet spiced cherry wine, honey from Pele's Fire and the familiar coldness of Spidersilk that all takes my senses far away and I feel I can channel my inner Sarah Sanderson. This oil loves to morph on my skin and the more I wear it out I'm noticing the initial playful sweetness gives way to the rich seductive dragon's blood and waiting warm amber in about an hour time and then the haunting wisps of romantic styled vanilla from Starlight & Spidersilk finishes out the night. 'Tis gorgeous and lasts through a 12-hour shift! Nui Cobalt Designs My nose really can take me to some bizarre places, take for a good example this next house of fragrance called Redwood Alchemy that promised quite the fragrance journey with a just released scent of a trip to the drive-in that involved classic buttery and sweet popcorn with a splash of spilled blood. You read that right, BLOOD. Being that wondrous time of the year when the werewolves, ghosts and vampires roamed, I had to try this blend (with fingers crossed my secret search had come to an end of finding a realistic gore fest from the indie world and not just a dragon's blood substitute) and I also grabbed a few others that were calling me. All I can say, this was strangely beautiful introduction and the start of another list of recommendations. ___________________________________________________ *Reviews composed in November 2020 The gorgeous Hallowe'en Full Moon has come and gone along with a much-needed sugar kick (it was a Taurus moon afterall and it needed to be toasted with an indulgence or two; so no shame) and the howling winds of winter have unexpectedly come abanging at the shutters for many tonight. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm never ready for those frigid reminders and luckily I can keep those types of unwanted demons at bay with slathering myself in powerful scent potions from the indie realm. My latest little trove of themed fragrances arrived from Redwood Alchemy and as the title says: "When it is Hallowe'en every day with indies, the ghosts and vampires never have to fade away" So let's call forth four special selections and a surprise fifth that showed up at my door at the perfect moment. Purchased: October 7th and delivered October 17th Longevity: Between an impressive 15+ hours (Anubis) to 4 hours (Murder At The Movies) on the skin One Note At A Time: Murder At The Movies (Description: Pull up to the Drive-In with your sweetheart for this midnight Blood and Kettle corn double-feature. The cozy familiar fragrance of warm, buttery, carmel topped popcorn with a caustic splattering of sweet metallic blood.) Notes: Popcorn, Butter, Carmel and Blood Murder At the Movies is buttery sweet and carries a realistic tang of salty metallic blood which is all oddly comforting and completely unique within my collection. It's one seriously twisted playful perfume with a satisfying unnerving element you can't wait to share with others and also has some unexplained sleep/relaxation quality to it I wasn't expecting. Who knew a sinister gourmand could help me drift off to dreamland (and could be so wearable). Longevity varies on where I place the oil, on my wrists and arms about 4 hours, on my neck about 6 hours; while in my hair or at the hairline on my neck 10 hours. Areté (Description: As ephemeral as the fae winds - sweet & musky.) Notes: Lily of the Valley, Vanilla, Amber, Cashmere As it says in the tin and how this shop's stellar customer service painted it- haunting and ethereal. I've only had my mini bottle of Areté a few weeks, but I'm already impressed and want to try more. The spice note (very much like coriander) that appears first to the nose is another welcome surprise from this sample box and I'm downright smitten with the romantic musky vanilla and Lily of the Valley that manifests and stays for hours afterward and lends to an overall expensive smelling vintage-esque quality that fits in perfectly with my personal aesthetic and is right at home on my vintage vanity table. This is the scent of a romantic ghost of beauty. I can't wait to see (and smell) what else this charming little house of fragrance has planned next. Cyanide (A poisonously sweet fragrance that combines the scent of bitter almonds with hints of toxic fruit pits like apple, apricot and peach that dries down to a venomous sweet almond spice.) Notes: Almond, Cherries, Clove Top marks for overall presentation and fine attention to detail of these fragrances even right down to the font type on the vintage-esque apothecary bottles. When it comes to Cyanide, my black little heart skips a beat how dead-on sinister this smells and the applaudable research that obviously went into this perfume's creation. This isn't a child-like candy fruit perfume, (so gentle wearer beware), Cyanide coils about your senses with a distinct cherry bitter almond aroma and further plays on your most dark fantasies with an additional drop or two of warm spice. Perfect for reading some fiendish unsolved murder mystery whilst enjoying a piping cup of tea or stepping out for the night where a few raised and intrigued eyebrows will be sure to appear. Now that's a perfume worthy of the name of Cyanide. Anubis (Description: This Egyptian funeral fragrance embodies an authentic herbal mix of wood resins, oils, aromatic spices and papyrus reminiscent of actual mummification materials used in ancient Egypt.) Notes: No listed notes One of the myriad things I love about Indie Perfumes is how they can transport you to new worlds and Anubis is a directly sweeping fragrance back through the sands of time to a royal funeral in Ancient Egypt. Quite a few precious resins make up this blend and my nose detects the almost lemony frankincense amplifying above them all with various dry herbs, a floral akin to geranium and a hint of salt. The promised papyrus is the last note to leave me 15 hours later and this was exactly what I was hoping for when I ordered this mini sample bottle- a well-researched scent experience not of this century. But wait, there's more! I'll be right baaack... *I almost changed my carefully planned costume idea of a Victorian Vampire Aristocrat this year for a seductive Cleopatra after trying Anubis, it has that power to turn everything on its head. Ah, but one little surprise addition that I found nestled in my box of olfactory delights whipped that Victorian Vampire idea back and made my gothic heart sing! A WHITE WHALE HAS BEEN FOUND. BLOOD layering note No listed notes but if I had to give my best guess, the darkest reaches of the scent imagination. You want unique, here it is- the truest smelling blood accord I have found in the indie world and it layers marvellously well with all my fiendish themed perfumes; now that's scent sorcery! For this Halloween, I donned Sixteen92's Mina Harker and added the perfect finishing touch of Redwood Alchemy's BLOOD accord under my lace gloves and behind my ears and the combination that wafted around me was hypnotic and empowering. The sharpness of the cold plums was amplified and the metallic tang of BLOOD entwined with the hidden typewriter ink, powdery violets and old fashioned skin cream of Mina Harker created a whole new fragrance story that I would have dearly loved to have shared with a dark stranger as we waltzed in the moonlight that night, but alas 2020 had other ideas. Atleast, in my mind I was whirling around and dreaming of what may come in 2021. BLOOD will be staying on my vanity and adding its unique touch to everything. Bravo, Redwood Alchemy! Redwood Alchemy 💕🦕 Complete transparency: I was sent these perfumes as a thank you for the suggestion of a Don Bluth collection someday showing up in the catalogue. Who knew a nerdy discussion about beloved animated films and iconic scenes would turn into such incredible scent artistry that would bring a tear to one's eye for the bottled nostalgia. This was a perfect challenge for Stereoplasm and they nailed it! "THE SECRET OF TIME AND HEAVEN Are you ready to unlock a secret? Take a journey into childhood with me, Sitting in front of your little TV, Going to heaven, Coming back to earth, Let's rediscover childhood's worth. Where all dogs go to heaven to stay, Where Littlefoot finds his family one day, Where Great Owl gives sound advice, Where you and I Are by stories enticed. We are so happy to share September's mini-release with you! Let these scents bring you back into the movies of your childhood days. No matter where you are, You can unlock the secret of time and heaven." ______________________________________________________ One Note At A Time: The Star Leaf (Morning dew, rich soil, nurturing chamomile, mossy stone, fresh herbs and all the star leaves you can eat) Inspired by The Land Before Time (1988) Yep, yep, yep, this one is green and wonderful! I'm immediately transported back to being 5 years old pretending the thick hollow is The Great Valley and I'm sitting on the warm summer grass under the "bright circle" mixing this and that green in a little bowl with a stick then headed indoors for supper where my mother would so cleverly convince me that I was eating "tree stars" with the fleshy vegetables on my plate whilst I could still smell the grit, grass and green moss on my knees, elbows and in my curls. I get freshly smooshed wet tree leaves with even the realistic sap, warm sunlit grass along with lemony dandelions, garden picked basil and something peppery and comforting underneath it all. If you are a nature child or just want to relive carefree childhood for a day, grab The Star Leaf! The Great Owl (Ancient amber, frankincense, bezoin and champaka in a hollow draped in thick cobwebs, glowing citronella and vetiver root) Inspired by The Secret of NIMH (1982) The champaka lends to the golden glow of this perfume that hits the nose first then these fantastic atmospherics glide in, I get the decaying bark of an ancient tree, I get the gauzy stickiness of a thousand pulsating cobwebs and The Great Owl is indeed unnerving. Hours later, an unexpected "green" marshmallow sweetness I recognize from my new obsession called Enjoy Your Waffles grabs my full attention again along with warm amber and I'm one happy lady. The longevity is about 8 to 10 hours for me. Enjoy Your Waffles (A welcoming breakfast of homemade waffles with plenty of maple syrup, coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Superseded by manipulative whispers from a garden of white daises, heliotrope and magnolia) Inspired by All Dogs Go To Heaven (1989) The coffee pairing with orange juice and maple syrup should all equal a rank syrup drowned skunk on me, but it doesn't! Enjoy Your Waffles is just magical. It's warm and comforting with a genius floral atmospheric serving as a base under the soft mixture of realistic gourmand notes along with good cosy vibes that you want to wrap yourself in and never leave. This feels like home, it really does. Even though I never grew up smelling magnolia or didn't get to try waffles until I was an adult, this perfume evokes pure peace and sincere waiting love. It captures the scene in the animated feature All Dogs Go To Heaven, perfectly! Stereoplasm In 2019, I was fortunate enough to be one of the first to obtain a custom fragrance from Nui Cobalt Designs (at the time the tarot reading was not offered) and the following rambling is about a marvellous scent journey back through time and special memories. ✒When I first submitted my ideas for a dream custom, I asked Forest to sweep this weary wearer away to another era. Specifically back to RMS Titanic with the help of individual notes from certain perfumes and blends I have fallen hard for: "the realistic sweet rose nectar, fresh stems that smell from the most elegant vase and Easter lily from Anthophilia, the powderiness of the Lily of the valley from Robin's Egg and Netherfield Ballroom with a twist of maybe sea salt or ambergris" and to top off this fantasy floral bouquet, I requested lilacs. Yes, lilacs. The bane of indie artists. The mythical beast of fragrance legend that no indie has truly captured for me or has been able to create an oil that will stay on my skin longer than a whispered prayer...until now. (Final Notes: A vintage Spring bouquet of living lilac, sweetheart rose, Easter lily, orchid, and lily of the valley upon a moonlit sea) This list of returning to a lost bygone era resulted in the most gorgeous nosegay of timeless refinement and treasured memories for myself that I cried. Yes, I cried as the lilacs bushes from my childhood wafted around me and the rose nectar with white Easter Lily took my senses on another type of wondrous journey altogether to subjects of history and fascination. Each time I sniffed this exquisite scent potion it morphed and shifted. A distinct soft saltiness and aquatic element also appeared after an hour of wear and miracles of miracles the lilacs stayed true and I could distinctly smell that heavenly note hours later. I was over the moon and to the stars. When the time came to bestow a name for this otherworldly creation, I admit I was at a loss. It didn't only just sweep me away to RMS Titanic (little known fact, it was also called "the ship of flowers") and the final first-class dinner. It also somehow bottled and presented the favourite flowers of family members of the final Romanov Dynasty- lovely stately lilacs for Empress Alexandra and Grand Duchess Maria, Roses for Grand Duchess Olga and Lily of the Valley for Grand Duchess Tatiana. Finally, the oil I held also unexpectedly touched remembrances that I hold so dear above all as I wore it I could hear the rain pattering softly from long ago and my Baba humming the song "You Are My Sunshine" when I closed my tearstained eyes. This perfume was lost beauty and felt like a hug from time itself. I knew then the perfect name- Vicnaja Pamjat which means Eternal Memory in Slovak (in the Byzantine Catholic church it is the saying used in song on Easter Sunday and other events when prayer is offered for those gone but not forgotten). I know someone very special who would have approved and is smiling down at the lady I have become because of her. _________________________________________________ I can never thank Forest from Nui Cobalt Designs enough for crafting something so special for me and if those reading this get the chance when the time comes to order a custom fragrance by this exceptional scent artist, I highly recommend Nui Cobalt Designs We all have those guilty pleasure films that may not have been seen as cinematic gold in others' eyes but for you, you can't get enough of those certain types of mind-rotting-entertainment. It's candy for the brain and Jawbreaker (1999), is one of my ultimate guilty pleasure movies that matches perfectly to those criteria. Let me take you back and remind you a bit of time trip...(come on, indulge an old lady, this is all I have) We are at the final days of a millennium about to celebrate a full century of innovation, growth and advancements in technology (we aren't quite panicking just yet about changing over the 000's in our computer systems or Y2K Computer Bug- that comes in a few months and I slept right through New Years), medicine and industry (Oh Napster released that year!) etc and hey roller rinks and Butterfinger BBs still exist. There are strobbing silver lights, boy bands in baggy clothing, thumping night club scenes, bleached tips, and metallic clothing (plus lots of white pants) in about every music video and there's Madonna dancing with Austin Powers. It was a fun time for sure especially for those of us just learning our tastes with our cd players and which vhs tapes to grab at Blockbuster. It was a wide range of genres of movies that year but for me, Jawbreaker somehow captured that magical time what with the flashy pin-up 1950's styled clothing in daring neons mixed so perfectly with the 1990's grudge goth aesthetic (did anyone else race out to try to find a purple neckerchief and a nail polish named 'decay' or 'demented'?) and the quirky bubblegum murder meangirl plot serving as the body (ha!) of the film, it was hard not to love it, quote it and still think about. Enter Sixteen92 in the summer of 2020 announcing the grand reveal of the Summer 6th Anniversary collection. One look and I knew what I was bringing home. One Note At A Time: BEAUTIFUL. POPULAR. LOVED. FEARED. (Moonflower, tiare, bitter almond, blond woods, heat lightning, asphalt) In the film there are scenes of transformation and lovely manipulation at play and this perfume begins with the turn of the sun on wet bedraggled green sprouts that with attention would dominate a garden of followers er flowers. Very clever. The bitter almond and intoxicating white florals just lie under the all illuminating sun then all reveals the dangerous poisonous side that is still highly addictive and impossible to not be drawn to. I thankfully don't get any asphalt but there is a nifty morphing impression of metal in this perfume that hits out of the blue, just like a betrayal from someone you so wanted to believe and idolize. HAVE YOU MET VYLETTE? (Shy violet, pale leather, soft patchouli, fiddlehead fern, white rose, a crack of black pepper) On opening a familiar realistic greenhouse fern note from Serres d'Auteuil greets the nose along with a sweetness of a fresh white rose then ever slowly this perfume spins in some seductive leather, violet and punch of black pepper that adds underlying warmth and viola instant mysterious popularity on my vanity table. Have You Met Vylette? was made for us wallflowers that have a secret side that we just a nudge to reveal. Remember my fellow wallflowers, we hold the power and on a clear day, baby you can see tomorrow. PEACHY F-CKING KEEN (Peach preserves, white nectarine, black raspberry, syrupy benzoin, vanilla musk, rum) So who wants to sashay about smelling like a Fuzzy Navel drink? Those devilishly deceptive (though delicious) soft cocktails get me in trouble at weddings so unless I'm home and 'Pour Some Sugar On Me' or 'Hurricane' is thumping in the background, I can't wear this out as I amp this little number to the heavens and back and my coworkers would think I'm a lush, haha. I do love the spiked peach and additional dark fruit in this and appreciate it doesn't turn to raunchy cat urine on me, the listed vanilla musk will unexpectedly reappear in another purchased blend that I will get to rambling about in awhile. Overall, this is a Friday night or Saturday type of scent when you are up to no good and feel like strutting down a hallway like you own the burning world even in your pajamas. THE PRINCESS DI OF REAGAN HIGH (Coconut milk, star jasmine, pink birthday cake, warm honey, white amber) The Princess Di of Reagan High was the reigning queen of my summer fragrances in 2020 but she also can make a delightful cameo appearance now and again in the cold cruel months as the sweet, bright and delectable notes help banish the winter blahs and distract me from the looming 5-foot snowdrifts out my window. When it comes this perfume the coconut milk has thankfully mellowed and softened even more after all these months and the strawberry almond vanilla cake with drizzled golden honey and a warm white amber base shines through and tempts me to whip up a thick strawberry cake from scratch for the neighbors just because. The crunchy sugary topping is amping with lovely intensity this morning and stokes some hidden impulse to spread joy around, be liked by the community and put frills and ruffles on (again) just because and stick my head out the frozen over window risking serious wind rash and whistle to the birds so they could help me bake (they would probably tweet back some type of obscenity about it not being spring yet and stop bothering them). Yes, my fellow gloomy little hearts, this perfume makes you want to feel and be kind and want to turn into a crazed Snow White others would probably want to kill (use with caution). PROM QUEEN (White chrysanthemum, sticky honeysuckle, cherry limeade, red lollipop, smudged mascara, innocent cashmere, blood accord) I mentioned smelling and feeling like a crazed Snow White how about a demented Prom Queen with a big secret? Now at first this vial when it initially arrives is sickeningly sweet and tart with the cherry limeade and candy swirling underneath and an absence of any listed florals, but give Prom Queen several months of gentle aging and she will reveal her freaky even dare I say kinky side. For me, this one still opens with playful sticky sweet tartness of a melting popsicle then something sinister just hiding under the faux exterior of candy reveals in about an hour realistic floral petals, wet makeup and a tang of copper blood! This is the first time I have smelled realistic blood in a Sixteen92 scent creation and I love it and wish it to be found more in this indie's catalogue. There is also something to akin to draping material as well I can detect and I totally get the scent story of Prom Queen now. I KILLED THE TEEN DREAM (Vanilla bean ice cream, pink spun sugar and marshmallow, white cake crumbs, candied citron, a cracked jawbreaker, duct tape and gunpowder) And the award goes to for the most unique candy themed perfume I have ever smelled...Wowza! I Killed The Teen Dream (deal with it) is a wild ride. It's playful and inviting yet (cleverly) deceptively unnerving and twisted underneath perfectly matching the opening sequence and scenes of Jawbreaker. On me, the almost powdery creamy layer of candy shells and delicate citron amplifies first and the unmistakable aroma of sticky chemical glue from duct tape shortly follows. I don't get any gunpowder or ice cream which is a little disappointing, however, I do get Sixteen92's infamous mouthwatering marshmallow accord and it replaces the citron and lasts well into the next morning along with the return of a candy shell that reminds me of nostalgic easter baskets. I knew this perfume was going to be off the wall but I didn't expect anything like this and this is why Indies exist- to create one of kind scent potions that not only tell a commanding story but hit all the senses. No one else could have brought this type of perfume to life. Brava, Sixteen92! They F**ing Forgot My Birthday (Wedding cake, orange blossom honey, burned sugar, soft vanilla musk, unlit birthday candles, would you stop feeling sorry for yourself?) Here it is THE scent that launched a thousand reviews and set the indie world ablaze last year and it smells like I'm being smothered by 90's powdery sweet My Little Pony toys. Great. Sadly, this was the biggest disappointment purchase of 2020 for me and I'm still cursing out my skin chemistry every time I take this coveted bottle out to test hoping this will be the day the stunning wedding cake with buttercream icing and orange blossoms will stand firm against the onslaught of a cascade of warm powdery plastic (that I'm guessing is from the "unlit birthday candles" mingling with the vanilla musk), but alas, every time it's the same outcome of me just enveloped within moments and being laid low for a full day (and half if I don't scrub fast enough) with a pinching headache. This bottle has taught me so many things and the number one lesson is, I need to be more picky in 2021. 3 things are always welcome into my home- more books, more music and more perfume and this next house of fragrance provided me with all those as their blends are inspired from various forms of fiction and genres of music which leads me to learn all I can as I sit back with each bottle. In truth, the medieval-styled artwork and their overall aesthetic initially caught my eye and the use of some extremely rare notes (lime, marigold, coriander, beeswax, fireweed, rose geranium etc.) in the oils sealed the decision to explore further and place a small introductory order from Stone & Wit. These were my impressions and certainly not my last. _______________________________________________________________ ✒️Amazing customer service practice with prompt and courteous responses (I made a 3 am purchase and failed to notice the directions of listing the samples I was interested in the order/comment box- the owner was very understanding and even sent me all the samples I was curious about after that embarrassing mistake!) ✒️Fast TAT (I ordered June 4th and had my parcel on the 8th). ✒️The sample sizes are extremely generous and arrived in these fitting brown twist top ampules (nestled inside their own box) that all play perfectly into the aesthetic. ✒️They promote ethical sourcing and are open about the ingredients and bases they use in each perfume. (for more information, these pages are fascinating reads 1 and 2) ________________________________________________________________ ✒Longevity: LONGEST- The Red Hare and Starling (10 and 8 hours on skin) SHORTEST- Doble O Nada and Blame, Etc. (2 hours on skin) All the following perfumes vary from 2 hours to the above mentioned. One Note At A Time: !Simpatico! (Description/Gathered Notes: Opens with a cool, airy rose-geranium accord, balanced with sweet and slightly earthy tobacco notes. The dry down warms up into chocolate amber and musk with a touch of dark wood notes.) !Simpatico! is a sweet Summer Playlist in a bottle for me. The description says the chocolate amber manifests of the dry down, but on me, those dreamy notes along with the distinct rose geranium open the show creating an unexpected decadence and the following dry down is this cool airy collaboration reminding me of sweet bubblegum (along with a hint of vanilla) with the spicy green leaves of geranium when you pick them from a warm windowbox as you hang out on your porch hoping to catch a glimpse of your summer crush next door. I listened to the inspiration behind this fragrance and I couldn't help but notice my playlist had a similar vibe to it, so for those curious: Gin Blossoms, Don Henley (okay The Ataris for a later remake) and Lana Del Rey all come into play when I sit back and let this bottle take me away. There is a vintage old money element under it all that has me reaching for !Simpatico! on hot summer days. Etta (Description/Gathered Notes: A dark wood accord, like well weathered ship's timbers, forms the base for the heart of sweet rum and jasmine and top note of lime juice.) I fully admit I'm a bit enamoured with this fragrance and I never like to compare different houses of fragrances together as every shop and artist is unique, but I stand by my first impression of Etta reminding me a great deal of Sixteen92's Jean. Looking at the notes, it makes no sense but I get an effervescent opening and gardenias with a kiss of tropical fruit and I had to message the owner and inquire if gardenia was unlisted, he told me it could be the combination of jasmine and cinnamon rum. Well whatever magic is at work, Etta is flipping gorgeous and tells a scent story of a character that takes no prisoners and knows she has arrived in life. It's magnetic, beautiful, a tiny bit boozy-salty which adds a certain level of maturity and I think is a lovely unisex fragrance anyone could wear. Longevity is about 4 hours and the throw isn't a cloud which I truly appreciate as Etta has been accompanying me to work when I want to feel in charge even though the world is spiralling out of control. The Red Hare (Notes: Fresh ginger, fig preserves, cherry, caramel and deep blonde suede) On application this is zippy and a bit too "perfumey" for me but after 20 minutes, wow this is pretty and delicious smelling! The Red Hare at first reminds me of another oil I own from another shop sans the rhubarb but completely transforms to another entity of a summery fruit preserve and warm caramel matchup that makes me huff my arm and go "oh, so that's what figs smell like". Sorry for the rambling it's hard to keep up with this blend, it morphs and shifts every time I sniff and has this zany fun energy about it. The cherry juice pairing with the caramel is probably my favourite part of this and the soft suede note hours later is quite unexpected and impressive overall. Doble O Nada (Notes: Soft sweet tobacco, vanilla and rum with a twist of lime) I was raised on Mafia movies (and horror movies, hehe) and this, this is good. The sweet tobacco with vanilla is one of the best examples of those together I have found in the indie realm for myself and the lime is true adding a zing of citrus to the creamy spice of the tobacco (thankfully the rum isn't running amok on me). Mmm, Doble O Nada is seductive and a bit dangerous. I'm going for a hair oil of this little number. Blame, Etc. (Description and Gathered Notes: Opens with tart and juicy pink peppercorn, balanced by herbal, sweet coriander. The pink peppercorn carries over into the heart notes: bright jasmine, spicy and leathery saffron, supported a rose accord. The dry down is smokey incense and honeyed woods.) The dry down on this perfume is stunning smelling of lush rose incense and sweetened honey with a hint of pepper but alas on the opening saffron dominates on my skin and can give me a huge pause and compulsion to scrub before a pinching headache develops. I've suspected for quite some time that saffron was a death note for myself and Blame, Etc. finally confirmed that and I need to remember to watch for that listing in the future. After about 15 minutes a sweetened wine aroma wafts up and welcomes my nose back to my skin and it's quite lovely as it morphs from a mysterious fruit to floral incense with rare pink pepper. I'm going to use Blame, Etc. in unscented whipped soap and let the honeyed rose incense take me away for as long as possible. Starling (Gathered Notes: Vanilla, ambrette, rose, spices, fig and pear) Oh, liquorice rose wine! This could very well be a sister scent of Candelere as there is a distinct captivating vintage element that calls for a special night out. Out of the two, Starling is a heavier oil on my skin and did take a little bit longer to settle down after it first arrived but overall is pretty and something special for the colder months. This shop executes rose and fruit notes beautifully. Candelere (Description and Gathered Notes: The berry-rose-green notes of fireweed compliment and contrast sweet yet bitter marigolds and a deep honey accord, rounded off with an earthy sandalwood accord and beeswax base with hints of vetiver and woods.) It's seldom when modern created perfumes remind me of true classical music with any lyrical spirit, so let me be the first to applaud and introduce those that know the works of Haydn to Stone & Wit's Candelere. This is airy, romantic with a dramatic vintage edge that whisks me away and I want to pile my curls up in ribbons and learn how to minuet properly with this lovely fragrance adorning my neck and wrists. For composition, my skin brings forward a powderiness with a wisp of realistic summer garden bouquet just barely underneath and the alluring beeswax is becoming stronger as Candelere is slowly aging. It's bright and expensive smelling and how I wish I had somewhere worthy to go to show off this fragrance. It calls for the best of everything. Just beautiful and I must now seek out this Molly Nosegay Chandler and read all about this character Candelere is inspired by. Stone & Wit *reviews composed in May and June 2020 I'm in a bit of silly (and hungry) mood when I'm in the presence of these oils (and names!) so just indulge me. *hums then busts out in song* I found someone to take away the heartache, to take away the loneliness (about missing out on banana and cucumber perfumes)! Any Cher fans here or more importantly any excited Nui Cobalt Designs fans present because I have some ramblings to share.
*Thank you so much, Forest and Josh, for allowing me to sample these collections! One Note At A Time: Power Down (A relaxing potion of labdanum and silken white sandalwood adorned with delicate lavender buds and a wisp of clary sage. Anoint your pulse points to alleviate stress, restore your peace of mind, and help you unwind.) On first application Power Down reminds me of another delightful relaxing creation by Nui Cobalt called Tryptophan with a caramel-like butteriness present, but that slight impression disappears as few moments in, an unexpected fizzy lavender aroma appears and pulls my nose down to my wrist to stay. I'm still learning to identify resins so I apologize if the "fizzy" description sounds odd, it smells almost lemony without a trace of bitterness or a pucker-quality if you will, mixed with freshly harvested lavender buds. The listed sage arrives after the long dry down and completes the picture of witchy relaxation. Charisma Bonus (A seriously sexy fragrance to ensnare the objects of your desire. Spiced black patchouli languishing in vanilla honey with scattered ylang petals and catnip leaves. Wear this potion to make an excellent first impression, to capture the attention of influential people, or to inspire passion during amorous encounters.) You would think by now I would be able to identify ylang or could completely fully break down every note composition with one wave of the wrist, not so as these oils continue to retain and hide their secrets and I'm perfectly content with still being in awe with these types of blends. So with saying that, Charisma Bonus smells like spiced vanilla and dark honey that goes into the seductive mysterious realm versus landing in a gourmand area and this is what secretly I was hoping Sultry would have smelled like on me. My old friend patchouli anchors this medley and keeps the longevity of Charisma Bonus going for a full 15 hours on my skin and I know sandalwood isn't listed, but something is reminding me of fine wood in Charisma Bonus and a unique vintage quality is noticeable as well; they don't make fragrances like this anymore. For wearability, I won't waste this spicy little number on those at work, this is meant to entice and then conquer. Bollocks 2020 (An indulgent scent to help you keep a sense of humor when dealing with liars. Banoffee Pie: golden toffee conjured from sweetened condensed milk, sauteed spiced bananas, and a crumbly crust of butter biscuits.) What it says on the tin and this is an indulgence that has certainly surprised me as a first for myself, I now have a banana perfume to recommend! Nothing is nauseating or obnoxiously candy-like in Bollocks and on me, I get a soft wash of pure diced banana on top of vanilla toffee pudding and decadent buttery crushed graham crackers. Everything is incredibly realistic smelling and I'm thrilled that as lovely as the banana is it backs away and then fades letting the spiced buttery graham cracker come forward. The more I sniff the more I love this fragrance and I'm so happy I tried something out of my comfort zone. Odin's Eye (A powerful blend for wisdom and strategy. Iced blueberry, cedarwood, birch, crushed peppercorn, cardamom, frozen musk and white amber. Anoint pulse points and Third Eye to ignite the fire of the mind and access cosmic knowledge.) In the vial, intoxicating blueberries hit my nose and I almost spill my entire sample in my excitement to slather this blend (I'm weak for a good berry note and Nui Cobalt's has some of the best fruit accords). Once slowly applied the realistic blueberry rises along with masculine cedar with a hint of spice and I'm swept away to visions of enjoying cold freshly picked blueberries under towering ancient trees with a Viking warrior. Oh, Odin's Eye is a wink and nod to naughty imaginings! I think I found a new scent potion to add to the sleep and relaxation drawer of my collection. Blarney (A bracing scent to steel your nerves and keep you calm in the face of mendacity. Irish Breakfast Tea: the warm, tannic comfort of proper Cuppa sweetened just enough with a touch of honey and smoothed with cream.) I'm still a tea novice so I can't comment on how true Blarney smells of Irish Breakfast Tea, but I do get the familiar scent of black tea and a clean citrus undernote. There is a unique historical element to Blarney that turns my head when I'm going about my day and I know exactly where to feature this blend when the times comes. As this oil is aging more of the honey and cream appears after a few hours overall making this a lovely soothing scent, perfect for a rainy day like today. Sophistry (A refreshingly tart aroma to wake you up and get you going. Chilled sparkling lemonade infused with elderflower blossoms, thinly sliced cucumber, and a pinch of grated ginger root. Wear to guard against fatigue and burnout.) It has taken me weeks to figure out what this blend smells like on me and I finally have it- rained over cucumber vines in the garden! It's uncanny how true Sophistry smells of my memories of being asked to bring in an armful of cucumbers from our home garden, I can even smell the realistic dark skin of the vegetable. I didn't think it was possible to capture that distinct peppery green aroma, but there it is and not one recall of soap to note, this is an unexpected atmospheric. A few hours after dabbing on Sophistry, the tart-sweet lemonade appears along with a delicate floral and I'm falling for this perfume. This smells like summer country gardening to me and I'll be reaching for it in the hotter months. I need to stop fearing cucumber (and banana) and need to start collecting more of those blends now from Nui Cobalt Designs. Flim Flam (A beautifully balanced concoction to ease anxiety and calm the mind. Lush Phillipine mango with steamed sticky rice and a decadent drizzle of coconut syrup. Wear to settle down, center yourself, and see with clarity.) How intriguing! This really does smell like steamed rice, fruit and coconut. If I were to ever go to a beach I would wear Flim Flam with its playful tropical elements. I don't have anything that smells like this in my collection, what a find. I was admittedly a tad concerned that the mango was behaving like peach does on my skin at first but thankfully it settled right down and melded very prettily with the starchy wet rice and smooth coconut adding just a little punch of fruit. I can see why Flim Flam is becoming a run away smash of the April Fool's 2020 collection. Horsefeathers 2020 (A sumptuous scent to help you keep your cool when people try to pull the wool over your eyes. A traditional Arctic Roll: vanilla bean ice cream wrapped in a blanket of yellow sponge cake and a layer of vibrant red raspberry jam.) *I am lucky enough to have also the 2019 version and I cannot tell the difference. Can I just say that this shop executes gourmands beautifully and Horsefeathers is another where I could lick my arm. In the vial, this one is a bit syrupy smelling versus spreadable jam but once Horsefeathers has a few moments to settle on my skin this oil takes on a buttery cake quality with freshly crushed raspberries spread on top and it quickly shoots to one of the top raspberry cake perfumes I have tried. I tend to amplify the buttery cake with decadent raspberry jam but hours later a clear vanilla ice cream aroma wafts up from my wrists and makes me dance in my chair. A great introductory perfume to this magical house of fragrance and I plan to gift a coworker (who has been fortunate enough to travel to the UK and dine on some of these desserts from the April Fool's Collection) with one of these vials as she loves raspberry scents and all things bakery themed. Fingers crossed I finally will have someone to go indie shopping with and can get excited with (even mark our calendars) over new perfume releases. Spreading the Indie Love one stunner at a time! Yemaya (Mother Ocean, Protectress of Children and Guardian of the Home. We honor you with ocean air and sea foam sweetened with coconut, pound cake, and fresh watermelon.) Another fruit laced blend that is as it says on the tin. I get every listed note with Yemaya and the watermelon is freshly sliced hunks dripping juice (no jolly rancher candy here which I was worried about). I went for a walk wearing this perfume and I immediately snapped my head and nose to attention when a surprise salty whipped cream note appeared after 30 minutes. I have never been to or seen an actual ocean or beach but I could easily imagine a romantic victorian-esque painting of gaily decorated attendees having a brunch of sliced watermelon, pound cake with shaved coconut and one couple sneaking off to lick whipped cream off each other's hands as they stare at the rolling waves. A full 2 hours later, Yemaya curiously reminds me of a salty Robin's Egg (I think it's the whipped cream and vanilla). Just lovely. Achievement Unlocked (A bold blend of Mahogany and Merlot with tart elderberry and a single long-stemmed rose. Wear this sumptuous scent to amplify your confidence and hone your skills. Anoint the tools of your trade to move you swiftly toward success.) In the vial and on opening Achievement Unlocked smells similar to my beloved Exsanguinated, however, the mahogany amplifies more in this oil making this oil more of a brother scent of Under the Mistletoe if I search my notes. I do get a beautiful bloom of realistic rose (complete with promised green stem) about 2 hours after application and the elderberry adds a boozy mix to this oil that I enjoy. I'm still overall undecided on Achievement Unlocked to be completely honest. It's a keeper, I'm just not sure where to place it in the box for wear. Poppycock (A bright fragrance to banish confusion and illuminate the whole truth. Lemon Meringue Pie: frothy citrus sweetness in a toasted almond crust, with white vanilla peaks gently browned under a blowtorch). Poppycock is a sugary lemon scent confection that shifts to varying degrees of desserts on my wrists and crooks of my arms. It's not waxy or sharp and I get either vanilla cake with decorative swirls of citrus or textbook perfect whipped lemon meringue with a crunchy almond shell. The longevity is also impressive as this scent fades in about 4 to 5 hours on my skin making this the longest-lasting lemon dessert perfume I have found yet for myself (usually lemon dessert oils are gone on me before I leave the house). There is also a distinct heavenly smoke note with toasted almonds that is last to leave me for the night. Hoodwink (A soothing scent for rest and replenishment. A tall glass of Thai iced tea sweetened with Tupelo honey and swirled with vanilla rice milk. Wear for relaxation and to get a good night’s sleep.) Oh my, Hoodwink is going to be another smash hit, I know it. On me, I get bright floral/pollen honey with distinct brewed black tea and vanilla (something reminding me of an expensive latte in the mix as well) all in the background. It also stays close which is ideal for work as I can sniff to my heart's content and be taken away with this soothing medley. As the hours tick by, this perfume turns more creamy and dreamy completing this summertime escape fragrance. I adore this and Forest is the Queen of Tea Scents in my book! Arctic Fox (A sexy little number to inspire snuggles on the coldest nights. Soft amber nestled in sumptuous cashmere, steamed rice milk, winter white musk, and snow-covered fir trees.) Another vial I'm not entirely sure about as when applied I receive, soft white soap and a hint of pine. I was hoping for warm milk and amber with pine needles, to be honest. As Arctic Fox sits on the skin, more of a creamy powderiness reveals itself and I may just hang onto this vial until next winter and try again. There is something about this oil I love (perhaps the cool creaminess and amber?) Bibliophilia (The love of Books.The vanillic scent of aging paper, the tang of fresh ink, venerable bookshelves of oak and mahogany, a sweet trace of pipe tobacco, an undercurrent of faded leather. Wear this subtle potion to invoke spirits of arcane knowledge and empower your perceptions.) I mean this all in the best way, this smells like what I could only imagine the desk and library of Agatha Christie or Jessica Fletcher to smell like. I get the metallic tang of real typewriter ink, the unmistakable vanillic aroma of a stack of aged papers and realistic worn leather from a well-thumbed tome. There is also a vintage perfume-esque undernote that makes me think of the contents of an old black leather handbag laying on a side chair. I want to go reread a classic murder mystery now! Another impressive and oddly soothing blend from this collection. Loot (This time-honored formula attracts wealth from hidden and unexpected sources. It's an excellent assistant in acquiring assets, both monetary and otherwise. Use to greatly increase the flow of wealth into your life, especially in financially dire situations. It has a particular penchant for landing those dream jobs that seem out of reach. Loot is handcrafted and charged as the Aries moon trines Jupiter in Sagittarius. This celestial connection opens doors that didn't exist and lights the path to affluence. Bayberry bark and dragon's blood with Ceylon cinnamon and two luxuriant vanillas.* Do not apply to skin if you are sensitive to cinnamon.) I fully admit I went a bit wild over Loot when it arrived as it was a unique heavenly cinnamon and rich bayberry bark bomb I wanted to pour over my head but alas gentle aging has tamed this beast and it's sadly a bit forgettable now. That's not the point though and I'm going to keep this oil home and sprinkle it in my unscented whipped soap at different points of the year. The history and preparation of this blend are fascinating to read about. Liquid Luck (Made with wild-harvested four-leaf clovers, this potion confers great good fortune upon its wearer. A gorgeously green bouquet of night air and dewy grass, charmed galbanum and benzoin, Irish moss, carrot seed, living shamrock and freshly turned earth.) In the vial and on my skin I get sunshine warmed clover and wet morning moss. It calls back to some play sessions out in the garden as a child just with my back being cushioned by bouncy green growth and staring at scuttling clouds and rainbow shifting coloured bubbles dancing on the winds. Liquid Luck is a comforting hug of nature and innocent times you desperately wish you could revisit. As this oil sits on the skin it sweetens then on me the carrot seed comes out to play before fading at the 3 hour mark. I'm hoping to find I will have better luck with this blend in my hair and I can smell like those clover, queen anne's lace and daisy chain coronets I remember knotting together after I recovered a special key from my grandfather's garage and escaped to my own secret garden (that was only an old rusty spider-webbed covered door on the side of the shed no one ever used). Anyone else still refer to young tree branches as "wick"? Wow, I haven't thought about those garden ventures in decades, Liquid Luck truly is something special and conjures some unexpected smiles. Humbuggery (An uplifting scent to keep you impervious to deception and shielded from malice. Pineapple Upside Down Cake: a delicious juxtaposition of tang and sweetness, caramelized pineapple, coconut cream, toasted hazelnut crust and baked brown sugar.) I wasn't expecting to be hit with so much personal nostalgia with these new collections, but I'm very thankful for being reminded of happier times and those that have passed. My pap loved pineapple upside down cake and Humbuggery is a spot-on representation of that distinct dessert fragrance. It's sticky yellow cake draped in golden pineapple slices, shaved coconut that later becomes custardy with the soggy parts of the bottom of the cake and a tropical sweetness hanging in the air I fondly remember as my pappy sat at the head of the wooden table with that mischievous side grin (we both share in pictures). A gentle giant in my mind and how I wish this scent would linger a little longer on my skin. More of the coconut amplifies by 4 hours and then the final note is lovely crumbs of realistic yellow cake. A nice send off. I wish I loved pineapple, but that scent for me is more about the sentimental properties it holds versus pure enjoyment. Shenanigans (A richly sensual blend for grounding and stabilizing. German Schichttorte: a sumptuous confection of layered yellow cake touched with lemon zest and rum, glazed with apricot and finished with a cloak of dark chocolate. Wear when you need to stay present and focused on the here-and-now.) Oh, the children have been put to bed and someone has been baking some wicked vanilla rum cake with a dark shiny glaze of chocolate and dotted with apricot pieces. This one is BOOZE, CAKE and APRICOT on me, whew this one is heavy on the rum. I guess I learned something new with Shenanigans as I amplify alcohol notes and ah, the name just hit me because whoever would indulge in this decadent cake would be surely up to some shenanigans they may not recall the next morning or afternoon. Ha. Now that's clever storytelling with the notes and name. As fun and a bit wicked the opening is the final dry down is marvellous, smelling of thick yellow cake with apricots on me and I love this final shift of the notes before they fade completely at the 6-hour mark. Roguery (A tres chic scent to remind you of your effortless intrinsic fabulousness. Kouign Amann: a light and elegant puff pastry that takes the simplicity of buttered sugar rolls to the height of sophistication. Wear for a boost of confidence, comfort, and radiant self-esteem.) Albeit a wonderous realistic bread aroma, Roguery isn't the baked fragrance I have been searching years for. Roguery smells more of hot buttered golden topped rolls fresh from the oven and for me, I may have a bit of fun and layer this with some pumpkin desserts and see if anyone notices. I also get a hit of possible anise or almond (something reminding me of a subtle bite of liquorice). I'm going to keep this savoury buttered oil home and slather it on for sleep. Hindsight (An energizing blend to strengthen the memory. Green tea, galangal, rosemary, sandalwood, and nutmeg. Wear to invigorate the intellect and banish brain fog. It is particularly helpful when the mind is scattered by fatigue.) Just as I found in Higher Mind 2019, this an oil to grab when I want to put my thinking-cap on and get work done. This is a citrus spice and distinct scent of rosemary to Hindsight that grabs my immediate attention and I think I have indeed found a sister scent to Higher Mind 2019. The Green Tea adds a tannic zip to the base notes of sandalwood and nutmeg; never resembling soap. Everything is so well blended and I can't wait to stick my nose into a vial of Lightning Bug which also has green tea listed. Bamboozle (A sweet scent for hope and optimism. Baklava: diaphanous layers of flakey, golden pastry, toasted pistachio, roasted chestnut, crushed almond, and a generous drizzle of spring harvest honey. Wear to banish discouragement and brighten dispositions.) I know in the official video regarding the April Fool's 2020 collection, Forest mentioned she doesn't exactly like doing gourmands, which I can respect but can I say, that is a crying shame because she is so flipping brilliant at that category of fragrances and Bamboozle is another triumph! This oil begins with the distinct aroma of wet nut roll dough then the pistachio, chestnut and almond make up a delicious salty trio of pleasure and I want to lick my wrist. The honey appears a short while later and it does smell flakey and golden. Needless to say, Bamboozle is a winner and one delectable perfume to recommend. Balderdash (An ebullient scent to lift your mood when the bastards try to get you down. Cherries Jubilee: jewel-bright Montmorency cherries poached in brandy and drizzled while still warm over vanilla ice cream.) The true aroma of Cherry is a hard thing to bottle and release in perfume and here in Balderdash, Forest has soothed and conquered the mythical creature as there is not one resemblance of cherry cough syrup in this oil *claps*. Whew, there is some hooch mingled with the realistic cherries though and I think this imaginary baker was taking a strong nip while creating a sweet fruit masterpiece, haha. I can forgive that, it adds a punch and matureness to this perfume, I mean who honestly hasn't taken a nip while they were baking with liquor (one thumbful for the bowl and 3 for the baker, haha). My chemistry must love alcohol notes. The promised vanilla ice cream (along with unlisted coconut?) becomes noticeable on me about an hour later and the longer Balderash is gently aging, the more I love this scent potion and can easily see why it is so popular. Another fruit-scented creation to recommend! Foresight (A mystical blend for prognostication and planning. Angelica, precious saffron, orris root, sage leaves, heliotrope, eyebright, and a subtle touch of star anise. Wear this blend when plotting the course toward big dreams and long-term goals. It has a knack for navigating around potential obstacles and delays.) If there was a note I would run away with and marry, it would be star anise (forgive me, pumpkin!). There is some mysterious seductive element to that spice I want to hoard now and forever and on me, anise is the star of the show in Foresight. I love these types of morphing blends, I say that because Foresight starts off smelling cold, green and even like clear stream water with a hint of sassafras then the naughty star anise materializes out of nowhere, hood sweeping back revealing its true side to me and I know this sounds odd, but Foresight is what I could only imagine a rippled dream to smell like (complete with a trace of mystical incense on the edge). Another exciting and surprise favourite. Mmm, everyone can leave me with this one. I'm just missing a huge pile of satin pillows to flop back against and lose myself in as I huff my wrists and hair. _____________________________________________________________________ The first perfume I opened from Nui Cobalt Designs was Little Brown Rabbit and that sent that single vial sent me of a whirlwind year of collecting and researching all about this magical house of fragrance and here we are a year later with more to add to my little fragrance menagerie. *the following were purchased Ozark Hellbender (A dark and cool blend to honor your uniqueness. Watercress and wild-foraged blueberries slither through damp moss, budding birch trees, raw pecans, and coriander. Wear this fresh, nocturnal scent to invoke calm and clarity.) This one is intriguing as promised! I get sugared blueberries, watery greens and a drydown of a mixup of fruit, floral and coriander. To be honest, Ozark Hellbender reminded me a great deal of Bad Moon Rising the first couple of weeks with something in this blend reading as "violets" to me with a waxy floral (almost powdery) under the blueberries and herbs- I think it's the birch which I learning I tend to amplify. That all changed as this perfume has morphed to luscious sweet realistic blueberries and aquatic greenery and a dry "dirty" coriander under it all creating a fascinating docile watery scent overall. I was fortunate enough to actually hold a Hellbender in highschool and like those nifty creatures (they have the most adorable toes), this fragrance inspired by them is unexpected in how you think it would act. Weird is beautiful! Spring Peeper (A dynamic blend to wake you up gently and sustain your energy. Warm ginger with saffron, cardamom, coriander, and nutmeg sprinkled over unripe fig and yellow mandarin with a base of mossy mahogany. Wear to stay balanced, focused, and adaptable.) The melodic rhythmic chirping of Spring Peepers down in the hollow is the official sign of spring for me and here we have a fragrance that encompasses the essence of meditative night musings and motivational spirit of a persistent little creature. This is warm and inviting with the spices and the woody base is a perfect touch. The fig and bright yellow mandarin are noticeable in the vial and on application however meld into the background and I tend to amplify the warm woody spices. I love to use Spring Peeper for pure relaxation and when I'm listening to this perfume's inspiration long into the night. Lightning Bug (A scent that is vibrant, luminous, and alive. Budding angelica, liatrix, and blue salvia gilded with key lime and lemon verbena over green amber, green tea, and cucumber. Wear when you need to refresh and revitalize.) Lightning Bug is a quasi-atmospheric that on me smells first of realistic wet green grass and fresh (non-soapy) cucumber with peeks of "light" and "glows" from the citrus, the dry down is warm amber with a vintage twist. This is an elegant representation of summer-night nostalgia and this country girl is very pleased. Silver Fox (An elegant blend for charm, poise and decorum. White tea with honey and rice milk, almond macaron, soft grey cashmere and cool woodland musk. Wear when you must put your best foot forward and make a positive impression.) This perfume exudes a fancy vintage vibe and I'm absolutely smitten. When first applied Silver Fox smells sweet and gentle but still manages to give a good throw as my mother noticed, then 30 minutes the tea announces itself with a tannic nip along with a drop of lemon and a full 2 hours it morphs to soft creamy refinement that smells from another era. It's stunning overall, lasts through a 12-hour shift and reminds me a great deal of a few of my favourite "your skin but better" type of sophisticated scent potions by Nui Cobalt. Grey Wolf (A steely scent for unshakeable courage and impenetrable calm. White sandalwood, black amber, icy sage, cashmere, stone musk, lichen, softly smoked birchwood, grey suede, mountain springwater, and white peppercorn. Wear when you need to remember your strength and own your power.) Grey Wolf is a fantastic representation of one of my favourite animals. On opening it's cold and a bit sweet smelling with a distinct clean masculine element to this blend. Then the peppercorn melds in with the coolness of the sage, a soft trace of smoke and cashmere I recognize from other treasured vials and bottles from by Nui Cobalt, all creating the impression of a dappled grey, white and black coat slipping from the shadows. A slight greenness of lichen peeks out if I close my eyes and concentrate. For me, the true magic hits when a soft magnetic combination of smokey suede and creamy sandalwood appears on the dry down that reminds me of a great deal of Mourning Veil and Grey Wolf morphs a bit more feminine. You would think all of these listed notes would amplify and overtake a room but Forest does it again, as Grey Wolf is another glowing aura type of blend, that stays close to the skin while somehow projecting your inner self and you feel you can do anything. White-Tailed Deer (A blend for peace, tranquility, and bountiful blessings. Soft brown suede, golden musk, wild forest berries, and roasted chestnuts dusted with maple sugar.) Here it is, the blend that has blown me away with a magical cream dipped suede aroma on top of a delicious sugary berry nut and textile mixture under it all that makes no sense why it all works BUT it does. White-Tailed Deer also conjures personal memories of my days in the hollow practising archery and I'm under some fantastic spell as I don't want to put this vial down. This blend also works as a sleep scent potion as I huff my wrists and it's off to dreamland and I can still smell the creaminess sweetness 10 hours later. I don't know what could make this perfume any better, perhaps a hint of salt? Nui Cobalt Designs One Note At A Time: Sixteen92 (a selection from the Spring 2020 and Fall 2019 collections)6/25/2020
Leave it to Sixteen92 to present a gorgeous reeling of atmospheric fragrances that makes me want to dress up in all my historical finery and pretend I'm in another era in entirely as I recite iconic lines in front my vanity table. The following are ramblings about a handful of scent potions from the Fall 2019 and Spring 2020 collections inspired by horror film/books and The Golden Age of Hollywood. These various vials and ampule have been patiently waiting for months and now they are ready for their close-ups! One Note At A Time: Redrum (inspired by Stephen King's The Shining (1977)) (Description and Notes- The muffled din of a ghostly masquerade party - faint clink of champagne flutes, a ticking ebony clock, expensive furs, hazy hallways, and specters moving through shadow) On opening there is a distinct mixture of something cloying and chemical-like almost akin to polished dark shellacked wood with mothballs (maybe even tire spray?) and yet fuzzy childhood memories of exploring forgotten closets are slowly resurfacing as I sit back. I can hear the sound of the closet door rustling and resisting to completely reveal its contained secrets against the grain of a thick arsenic-green carpet as Redrum takes me back, there's disturbed dust on plastic bags in the dim light and I can definitely detect the expensive furs and sweetness of alcohol from the champagne. It's eerie and unsettling as promised and yet a little like a personal homecoming for me as I can smell a familiar beautiful vintage perfume materializing just under the strong wood and chemical aromas. I never learned the names of the bottles that adorned my Baba's vanity table but I can clearly remember the label designs and the one I'm wanting to compare Redrum to had a gold label with a red border and was in a frosted glass tall slender bottle. If only that wood and cloying chemical combination would release me and let me enjoy a revisit to the fragrant ghosts of my childhood but alas it refuses to settle and I can get an unpleasant pinching headache with Redrum. I'm still keeping this vial for future costume ideas and a bit of personal nostalgia. Darkness Was Enough (inspired by Stephen King's 'Salem's Lot (1975)) (Notes- Ancient woods, beeswax candles, spiced honey, charred amber, saffron crocus) 'Salem's Lot, the book and the movie respectively are iconic horror treats and how I wish to smell like a seductive vampire hiding deep in an abandoned house with Darkness Was Enough, but alas I smell I'm enjoying spiced tomato soup next to a guttering candle. Reading the notes this tomato soup fragrance doesn't make sense and I have been racking my brain trying to figure what this blend reminds of in my museum-sized perfume collection and it finally hit me the other morning- Pyromancy. Darkness Was Enough smells like Pyromancy only more acidic if that makes sense and has a melting candle note versus a hot metal with pepper under the tomato soup aroma. Since I already have Pyromancy in a larger size (somedays I just want to smell like a piping bowl of creepy soup!), I don't honestly know the future for Darkness Was Enough. I may put it some whipped soap or pass it along to a coworker who is still exploring Sixteen92's amazing scent artistry. Bette (inspired by Ruth Elizabeth "Bette" Davis/Bette Davis, April 5, 1908 – October 6, 1989; some of her films include: What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?, All About Eve, The Little Foxes and All This And Heaven Too) (Notes-Angel food cake, floral honey, marshmallow, pistachio, French vanilla, loose black tea) The long wait was worth it when it comes to The Golden Age collection and, in particular, this fantastic marshmallow fragrance. Bette makes her entrance with promised realistic angel food cake (heavy on the sweet almond) and crumbled pistachio on top then divine french vanilla rolls in and completely elevates this perfume from delicious to très chic! The floral honey is a drizzling over the almond cake for those concerned and on me I swear I detect a drop of creamy sandalwood blended in with the Sixteen92's famous marshmallow. Bette lasts throughout a 13 hour shift and she's just marvellous! Jean (inspired by Harlean Harlow Carpenter/Jean Harlow, March 3, 1911 – June 7, 1937; some her films include: Bombshell, China Seas, Hell's Angels and Saratoga) (Notes- White gardenia, Mexican tuberose, sparkling aldehydes, ginger ale, passion fruit, coconut water, silken musks) If you are looking for a dreamy floral-fruit fragrance that harkens back to the glitz and sparkle of Old Hollywood, look no further than Jean. This is class, allure and a bit of playful sass. Right away I get the aldehydes I recognize from Habanera and Ligeia and they meld beautifully with the buttery gardenia and soft coconut. Sixteen92's gardenia is the reason I'm an avid hunter of that note now and I'm going to say it, no one else's compares- it never smells like soap or shampoo or stale hairspray, it's just a silken floral that adds elegance to any blend it touches. The tuberose adds a slight "dirtiness" to this perfume which is just aces and researching it looks like Jean may be also a homage to Jungle Gardenia which was favoured by the elite of Old Hollywood. The passion fruit becomes more apparent on me after a few hours along with a vintage quality that stays until the final notes fade. I received multiple compliments on this perfume and I adore Jean and must have a full bottle next year (I missed the spring collection waiting for my samples to arrive then rest). Thank you to all who recommended this beauty! Marlene (inspired by Marie Magdalene "Marlene" Dietrich/Marlene Dietrich, 27 December 1901 – 6 May 1992; some of her films include: The Scarlet Empress, Witness for the Prosecution, Around the World in 80 Days and Knight Without Armour) (Notes- Alba rose, copal, bearded iris, scarlet lips, flushed cheeks, davana, plum syrup, gin fizz, smoke) I think we can all agree, scent is a suggestive and a personal experience so I hope you will forgive me for getting a bit weepy with Marlene because after a long decade I have been reunited with the exact vintage fragrance of red lipstick my Baba used to don. She wore violets like a timeless queen and I can pick out a creamy powdery floral under the lipstick on me that smells indeed of violets and there is no cough syrup to report (which can occur when violets meet my finicky skin chemistry); what wonderful magic is this?! I don't get any rose or plum for those curious and there is perhaps a wisp of separate smoke in the background, but then again I always thought real vintage lipstick had a smokiness to it. I also can just make out the smallest drop of sweet gin hiding in the long dry down. When I sit down and go through previous offerings with similar notes, Bruise Violet and Mina Harker could be called louder sister scents of Marlene and even Mein Herr Marquis could be a sister blend. I was curious if Marlene would smell like Winifred with the plum and davana, but there is no scent comparison after all these weeks. I love how soft and pretty this perfume is on me. My only lament is I wish Marlene stayed on my skin longer as it fades within two hours on me. I may need to look into a EdP option next year, this is so lovely but fleeting. Louise (inspired by Mary Louise Brooks/Louise Brooks, November 14, 1906 – August 8, 1985; some of her films include: Pandora's Box, Love 'Em and Leave 'Em, The American Venus and God's Gift to Women) (Notes- Sultry amber, red ink, black kohl, night blooms, Tonkin musk (synthetic), wormwood, soft suede, glistening strands of pearls) So Louise is fascinating as it opens similar to Bridget Bishop with the "night blooms" being cold and a bit resinous then this slinky smokey ink and soft suede medley peeks out and turns aquatic and silky. The wormwood smells like cool absinthe droplets and I've stuck my nose into enough antique jewellery cupboards to recognize the scent of old silk strands and saltiness of worn pearls that is evident in Louise on the long dry down. Louise is impressive and I'm over the moon the suede hasn't turned into a leathery chemical-bomb on me (I seem to amplify the wormwood (almost like anise/licorice), a dirty iris and silky/aquatic seductive element of this perfume). I think I finally found a suede blend from Sixteen92 I can wear on my skin versus only in my hair in small measured applications *claps*. This is another bottle I must have when the times comes, in the meantime I can't stop dabbing on this little number and dancing like no one is watching and vamping in the mirror in black lacy garters. What can I say, this Mrs. Grundy is ready to transform into a Sheba! Sixteen92 The word stunning doesn't even begin to describe my experience with Dark Tales and my necklace. Picture this, being greeted by a cascade of lovely little dried rosebuds when you open your parcel and being dazzled by the flash and glitter of tiny glowing jewels surrounding a piece of mini art that brings to mind the quote "a touch of magic in this world obsessed with science" (if you know what movie that quote is from, you are immediately my friend) which you can't wait to take out for the night in addition to no camera photograph truly capturing its strange alluring beauty. Finally to end the experience 2 beautifully presented perfume vials that hold their own stories and a corked vial of tea that promises a tannic fruit-filled escape. THAT'S what you will get with Dark Tales and I will be back for more (seriously jump on these prices while you can, you won't be disappointed!). Poison Bottle Necklace | Alchemist | Gothic | Victorian | Vampire Blood *discontinued Described as a blend of magic, dark romance and mystery and this piece is all of these things and more as it looks like it belongs on the neck of historical-fantasy's title enchantress or horror siren in a Victorian drama. The flash and glitter of the different stones allows me to match this necklace with any outfit I wish and the true strange beauty of the vial holds my attention long into the night as I can't stop staring at the intricate details and puzzling how this sealed over vial looks so much like coagulated blood (coming from a nurse to say, that is quite the feat and should be applauded as strange as that sounds) or lovely wicked poison if you are squeamish, and yet if someone were to casually glance at this piece they would only see a high-quality trinket with twinkling stones and small red glass vial; I simply love I can wear this to workplace setting and still feel elegant and entirely unique. My box also contained a few extra samples of the different kinds of curious wares this shop holds. I must also comment on the level of detail and attention that is apparent in the packaging of every product. EVERYTHING just looks like it is from some wonderful mysterious fairy tale and tied with fitting black ribbons. Perfume Oils Morning Powder (White musk, Honey Peach, Rose, Geranium and Vanilla) My skin is unfortunately sensitive to glycerin so I have been brushing a tiny bit into my hair in the morning. And this is a beautiful vintage rose that wafts around with a drop of peach and honey. I love the description on the site talking about clean morning sheets, but this oil reminds me more of a luxurious bath of tea rose petals and drop of peach juice with vanilla honey. On me, Morning Powder is definitely more rose forward and I'm impressed the peach isn't morphing and staying true. Very nice🌹 Old Library (Bergamot, Basil, Rose Tree, Cedar, Vanilla, Vetiver, Peruvian Balsam) *Inspired by "The Name of the Rose" by Umberto Eco Out of the two vials, this fragrance is my favourite as I get this wood laced spice/herbal blend that catches my full attention throughout the day and it's easy to imagine this being the fragrance of a medieval monastery library complete with aged manuscripts and dusty rose petals between the stacks. For longevity, these perfumes tap out at about 4 hours on my skin and 13+ hours in my curls. They aren't obtrusive to those around me which I greatly appreciate as my workplace has a strict fragrance policy. Loose Tea Midnight Fairy (composition of the "Midnight Fairy" includes a mixture of classic black and green teas, candied fruit, rose petals, cornflower, and natural aromatic oils.) I'm still a novice tea drinker, but I know what I like and I LOVE this tea blend. In the corked vial I clearly smell luscious peach and that note continues to enchant my senses as I steep this brew. I enjoy my tea cold and fizzy and Midnight Fairy makes a splendid bubbly tea as I call them when it is added to a carbonator with a drop of honey. It's refreshing, sweet and delicious and I would absolutely purchase a full bag or go for the lovely tea sampler this shop offers. Overall: I was extremely impressed with everything I was presented with and I have a strong feeling this won't be my only review about Dark Tales this year. Dark Tales *reviews composed in April 2020 Spring is slowly returning and these are the blends that have helped me battle the end of winter blues, Valentine-blahs that hit every year and have been gentle and intriguing distractions. From timeless florals that smell fresh from the rained-over garden, comforting intoxicating honeyed fruit and dark forest greenery plus everything unexpected, this was the perfect way to herald in spring, new beginnings and an attitude about different subjects (and notes). *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these fragrances. -The following perfumes lasted from 2 (Coimetrophilia) to 13 hours (The Bees' High Tea and Ailurophilia) on my skin and even longer in my hair and upper neck. Purchased Bottles: The Bee's Knees (A lively blend to brighten the mood and lift your spirits. Leaves of lemon balm and crushed coriander seeds accompany lavender scones with spring harvest honey and a scant drop of green cognac. Wear this scent to chase away the doldrums and banish the blues.)(-bottle purchased last year-) Simply put The Bee's Knees is one of the most realistic honey and old english lavender oils I have found in the indie realm. On me, this blend is sun-warmed dark golden honey drizzled over sugar-dusted lavender scones, I don't get any cognac or additional herbs and if they are there, they are blended in so seamlessly and expertly. It's magnificent and is a crowning jewel of my vast collection. Every time I wear it I imagine an English garden scene in late spring into summer and The Bee's Knees instantly brightens my mood as described. It was love at first sniff and what can I say, I fell hard. The Bees' Cotillion (So fancy! This ebullient blend evokes mirth and merriment to highlight your most endearing qualities. Succulent pears simmering in spring honey with the gentlest breeze of lily carried in a homespun infusion of honeysuckle flowers.)(-purchased this year after becoming entranced by the vial last year-) The Bees' Cotillion is an intoxicating blend of fruit, warm honey (I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey fragrances; I want to hoard them all like a shimmery amber dragon) and florals. It has found a special place on top my vanity, is one of my favourite pear perfumes to date and I know this sounds odd but this scent is lucky as good things seem to happen when I don it. It's professional and positively unique and says I have arrived in life while also staying approachable. Anthophilia ~The love of Flowers. (White tea rose, French lavender, cotton flower, Easter lily, pear blossom, the barest hint of ylang, and the vivid green of snipped stems. Wear this scent to attract beauty, pleasure, and luxury.) Fragrance currently listed on the site (-purchased vial and shortly after full bottle-) I can't help but hold my head high and breathe deep with this lovely blend as it evokes a treasured era of study for myself and taps into happy childhood memories of Easter celebrations and events. On opening, it's a bouquet of florals and sweet pear anchoring the medley keeping it from being considered heady and this beautiful balance and waltz of spring florals stay true throughout the night without veering into soap nor hairspray/chemical; Anthophilia is a nosegay of refinement and feminity. If you love or are searching for the nectar you get from a bouquet of roses and lilies with an unexpected sweet airiness of pear (and a drop of vanilla- ylang ylang), definitely give Anthophilia a wave of the wrist. It's simply magnificent! Brava, Nui Cobalt Designs! Purchased vials and press samples: Coimetrophilia ~The love of Cemeteries. Freshly turned soil, gentle rain, moss-covered tombstones, low-lying fog, old red oaks, and fading funeral lilies. Wear this somber scent to invoke the blessings of your ancestors and commune with the dearly departed.) (-purchased vial-) I had to purchase this vial as it called out to my fascination with places of sacred rest of the departed and I wasn't disappointed. On application, I get this ultra-realistic wet spring grass aroma that slowly shifts over to cold wet stone, a hint of decaying white lily and finally dries down to comforting moss and dirt. Coimetrophilia captures my memories of wandering in the local cemetery as a child in spring tentatively touching the stormed-over worn stones and deciphering names and dates covered by emerald moss. For longevity, Coimetrophilia fades within a few hours. It also stayed relatively close to my skin which I appreciated as I could bring a little unique though respectful macabre into the work setting and not disturb anyone and be left to my fond memories of exploration and the stories I have gathered about those gone but not forgotten. Stinger "Even bees, the little almsmen of spring bowers, know there is richest juice in poison-flowers." - John Keats (A refreshing potion to cleanse, heal, and protect. Blackberry brambles, honeyed black tea, and crushed coriander with ginger root, lemon myrtle, fresh basil, and fig. Wear to banish negativity and cast a radiant shield to repel all malefaction.) Nui Cobalt is one of the only shops that creates tea blends my finicky chemistry will play nice with and Stinger is a star example. It's intoxicating lush fruit, lemony aromatic herbs and dark seductive tea. For those that grew up in the country, welcome back to memories of berry picking deep in the jaggers; just watch out for those pesky yellow jackets or white-faced hornets! Mmmph. Negative everything, be gone! Ailurophilia ~The love of Cats. (Egyptian musk, tonka, and dulce de leche wrapped in luxuriant cashmere, soft suede, wisps of sandalwood and copal smoke. Wear this comforting concoction to honor your feline familiars and invoke their ancient power.) (-purchased vial-) With Ailurophilia I get a glow or aura of allure, pampered luxury and Old Hollywood Royalty at its finest. Perhaps I can finally detect and identify musk because this is sublime and it lasts 12+ hours on my skin, amplifying with every hour as the first sweet comforting dulce de leche notes fade. Like a feline, Ailurophilia has so many facets to its character; it's overall mysterious, fascinating and a bit naughty. If you are looking for a mental image, I immediately think of Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra winking as she makes her grand entrance to Rome. Home Sweet Hive Bees do have a smell, you know, and if they don't they should, for their feet are dusted with spices from a million flowers.” - Ray Bradbury (A comforting blend for calm contentment. Bulgarian lavender, oatstraw, honey-roasted chestnuts, maple sugar and a scant pinch of lemon zest. Wear for grounding, centering, and to carry sacred space wherever you go.) With the whole world going mad, this is one perfume I could bathe in as I get a tussy mussey of relaxing lavender and oatstraw that just invites warm comforting thoughts of home and sanctuary. The savoury roasted chestnuts come out more as this oil is aging and it melds sublimely with the sweet maple sugar. Home Sweet Hive is a delightful blending of spring and fall and I could see myself wearing this perfume in early spring and then again in fall and winter. Higher Mind (Smart is sexy. An assertive and herbaceous scent composed of green tea, sage, three sacred sandalwoods, rosemary, chilled citrus, and tonka. Wear this enchanted fragrance to hone perception, wit, and focus.)(-arrived with purchased order-) Rosemary! Finally, I am reunited with the unmistakable scent of fresh crushed rosemary and all things green and enchanting. I could happily huff this oil all day and I have noticed Higher Mind clears the cobwebs and helps me "put my thinking cap on" as my Baba always said. The drydown is unexpectedly alluring leaning slightly masculine. Another keeper and I believe I'm going to wear this perfume when I'm studying different subjects I missed so long ago. The Bees' High Tea (An uplifting blend to forge lasting connections and cultivate friendships. Delicate vanilla cakes with rose petal preserves, elderflower wine, and Earl Grey tea with a dainty drop of spring harvest honey.) (-purchased vial-) *Cue the violins and donning the white lace gloves* I finally have my little claws on The Bees' High Tea and it's everything everyone was saying it was. This is STUNNING! For those that fell hard for LOVE, you must try The Bees' High Tea because they are undeniably (surprise) sister scents. I recognize the vintage powdery rose and vanilla from LOVE right out of the gate and the addition of a drop of honey and earl grey elevates this blend from Oooo to Mmmphf! It's been a week since I received this vial and the vanilla cake is deepening with hint of butter on the long drydown (as well as the rose jam) and the tea is there staying true and not turning soapy. The elderberry wine (smells like rich less sweet grapes with a trace of tartness) is the note that amps on me the most and I'm learning all about a new note that obviously loves my chemistry. Overall a sweet elegant and yet almost playful perfume. Cobalt Druid: Sultry (A time-honored Hoodoo blend, famous for its power to attract passionate love as well as abundant wealth. Two dark, lascivious vanillas swirled with dragon's blood, heavy velvet musk and the secrets of an old rootworker's conjure cabinet.) Now this one is intriguing. I get heavy sweet dragon's blood, the impression of a black velvet dress slashed with red and a smearing of peanut butter? My chemistry has this tendency to morph patchouli to either rusted metal or peanut butter so I'm curious if there is unlisted patchouli in Sultry or my tired brain is playing tricks. Curiously, the peanut butter scent is fleeting as the dragon's blood amplifies on me and the vanilla with velvet takes over creating one seductive little number. Where is a black-masked mascarade ball when you need one? Busy Bee (A piquant potion for swift and efficient productivity. A blend of Oolong and Tibetan black tea with peach blossom honey, cardamom, and clove, sharpened with pink peppercorn and dry oakwood. Wear this scent for improved focus, diligence, and motivation.) The above should be hell on earth on my skin with the peach and tea (2 of my top death notes), but I'm enthralled that Busy Bee is an absolute treasure that smells delicious but dark and a little mysterious on me; perfect for the rainy weather and keeping my full attention. I finally have a true smelling peach tea perfume to show off and to recommend. Ceraunophilia ~The love of Thunder and Lightning (Slivered almond and ozone swirled with white clove, ambergris accord, ponderous grey musk, spiced tobacco, and black cotton. Wear this galvanic scent to call forth your inner strength and summon your fortitude.)(-purchased vial-) Boy, I'm learning such nifty names with this clever new Valentine collection and with Ceraunophilia I can't decide what keeps bringing me back for another closed-eyed huff, the salty ambergris, the almond or the dark swirling clove. This blend has left an impression on my scent memory and is a unique conceptual take on one of my favourite things in nature to watch and experience (the elements are there creating a perfect storm in my mind). It would be ideal for the bath and I can only hope it is turned into a potent bath spell someday.⚡☔ Bees on the Bayou "Every saint has a bee in his halo." - Elbert Hubbard (A dark, seductive blend for a sultry southern evening. Vines heavy with honeysuckle entwined with Easter lily, linden blossom, and neroli over a sweet foundation of pipe tobacco, pralines, and creamed honey. Wear to inspire lust and longing in the objects of your desire.) Nui Cobalt Designs has this amazing way with timeless florals and here the honeysuckle is sweet and rich while the neroli adds a fragrant tartness to the underlining notes. This is one lovely blend and I love how the honey pralines appear right as the florals fade. Speaking of the flowers I'm still learning unfamiliar notes, but I swear I detect the lemony-hearted magnolia making a cameo appearance at one point or other with Bees on the Bayou. I think I'll wear this oil more in the summer months and alternate this perfume with Feu Follet as those remind me so much of a family friend who was a southern belle. Queen Bee (An opulent blend to evoke confidence, poise, and effortless grace. Creamy white gardenia and fluffy whipped honey.) I was hoping for a summer version of Sixteen92's Ligeia, but instead have been united with sweet innocent nostalgia as this oil smells like a new baby doll in the warm sunlight on me and buttery gardenia. I didn't think I would find this familiar aroma until I finally got around to Rose Mallow or Violet Mallow from Solstice Scents but here it is taking me back and bringing a new white floral fragrance to reach for this summer. The heady floral powderiness of Queen Bee lasts quite a while as well, fading away completely at 10 hours. Another keeper! Wasp (An austere balsamic blend for when you need to clean up and get organized. Fresh linen, crisp chardonnay, and a rain-quenched herb garden edged with impeccable boxwood topiaries.) Just as described as the fresh linen scent rises up first to hit my nose, but this isn't the cheap headache-inducing kind, oh no, this is expensive fancy laundry detergent presented. The chardonnay is the next scent to slowly glide in and with that Wasp turns into a scene of laundry flapping in the warm spring sunshine while classical music plays from an open window. The final aroma that is noticed is something resembling calming rosemary. I like this oil and I guess this means I'm growing as a perfume collector as I can appreciate Wasp even with the expensive soap element front and centre. Black Honey “To be successful, one has to be one of three bees - the queen bee, the hardest working bee, or the bee that does not fit in.” - Suzy Kassem (An offbeat Gothic blend for true renegades and revolutionaries. Autumn harvest honey, nutmeg, clove, roasted cocoa, molasses, birch bark, star anise, and oud. Wear when you're ready to shake things up and ditch the comfort zone.) Not at all what I was expecting as I get spiced tootsie roll pops candy in the vial and on my skin I get root beer barrel candies (I guess I amp birch). The long drydown a glimmer of honey and vanilla comes forward, and then the root beer returns. Well, that is all different and I'm sure this would be someone's perfect cup of tea...actually I do know someone who would love this for pure nostalgia reasons. As for me- Oh well, can't love everything. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note (or series of notes) may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Selenophilia ~The Love of the Moon (Night-blooming jasmine, dewy gardenia, Mysore sandalwood, white amber, pearlescent musk, silver sage and a touch of frozen clove. Wear this luminous blend to invoke the magic of the Moon and draw down her healing energy.) (-purchased vial-) More and more I'm finding new facets of Selenophilia to be awed by as this oil has in store something new every hour it seems. It morphs and changes like the moon itself throughout the month and year starting out bright, buttery and luminous bringing to mind a full moon and then it darkens with the clove and almost something smokey which turns over completely to soft and classic (for me the drydown is my favourite). This is a lovely heady white floral perfume to reach for when you need something with a little oomph and glamour. Bee In Your Bonnet "Books are the bees which carry the quickening pollen from one to another mind." - James Russell Lowell (A piquant blend to enliven the mind and stir the senses. Raw rhubarb and cardamom with toasted oats, Madagascar vanilla, ginger ale, and caramelized honey. Wear for support in any intellectual effort to stay sharp and alleviate brain fog.) Here is another fragrant medley to wake the senses and clear the cobwebs. For those seeking the tart juiciness of rhubarb, here's Bee In Your Bonnet! On me, I get the rhubarb and slight bubbliness of the ginger ale after about 20 minutes on the long drydown the vanilla and toasted oats with honey slowly become more apparent. This one is a like not love, but a keeper overall. Dendrophilia ~The love of Trees. (Moss-covered deadfall, birchwood and pine, lingering resins and sunlight through the leaves, a trace of woodsmoke, the memory of vetiver and cedar. Wear this evocative blend to commune with the spirits of nature and reconnect with your primal wisdom.)(-arrived with purchased order-) My dream Moss Maiden perfume is that you? Oh, I feel like some fantastic warrior queen of the ancient forests painted in blue woad or a nimble-footed dryad of myth with Dendrophilia and I'm going to say it, one of the best realistic spring forest fragrances I have encountered in the indie realm. On me, the hyper-realistic moss and deadfall amplify (along with a hint of woodsmoke and dried pine needles) and sweep me away to dream locales and treasured stories. This is joining Sixteen92's masterpiece, Lycanthrope for instant relaxation and meditative/sleep oils. The Birds and the Bees (A very sexy fragrance of dark amber resin, Moroccan musk, ruby red and bright white grapefruits, a spike of black clove and a swirl of summer honey. Wear this sensual perfume to inspire passion and kindle romance.)(-purchased vial-) I'm finding my skin chemistry battles grapefruit and then drains any beauty from it turning it into chalky bubblegum (this is the 4th blend this has happened with from different shops). Ah, but in my hair is a whole different story as I get the mystique and seductive quality from The Birds and the Bees. Just perhaps I'm finally learning to identify musks because I can detect something "different" swirling in the winds. Something resembling fine plush fabric is also present or that could be my imagination. Into unscented whipped soap, The Birds and the Bees goes to turn some heads this upcoming spring and summer. For longevity, this one is fleeting, but nice while it lasts. Danu (Where the sea meets the sky, where the stormwaters return along the sun's rays, the loving kindness of the Universal Mother in her Celtic aspect. A luminous moon-white floral meets an iridescent aquatic. Three tender lotuses, Tahitian monoi, slender bamboo stalks, tuberose, and a soothing cup of tea.) Poetry in the description and poetry in the vial as I get salty tuberose that brings to mind a lone blossom bobbing in the incoming waves. On my skin, more of the clean aspect of the notes amplifies and Danu smells like fresh salty expensive soap. It's certainly elegant and lovely, however, I need to remember this one can reach across a room if I put too much oil on. One tiny dab behind each ear is enough to take me away to unchartered locales and lyrical artistry. Swarm "Aerodynamically the bumble bee shouldn’t be able to fly, but the bumble bee doesn’t know it, so it goes on flying anyway." - Mary Kay Ash (This delightful blend inspires hope, attracts allies, and nourishes friendship. A honey-drizzled blueberry tart bejewelled with candied apricot in a toasted almond crust. Wear for connection, collaboration, and encouragement.) Mmm, this is really perfume? I could honestly drink this and I can't stop making embarrassing noises once Swarm is placed on my skin. Okay time to focus, I get Nui Cobalt's sublime realistic smelling blueberry accord and the textbook perfect toasted almond crust I recognize from Poppycock and yes even candied apricot. The honey is very delicate and slowly warms up along with the almond crust as the spectacular blueberry fades. With the craziness at work, I'm going to be donning this gem and secretly huffing my wrists and braid when no one is looking but then again, let them look and take a sniff of Swarm and behold something from a gourmand's dream. She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee "Last night as I was sleeping, I dreamt -- O, marvelous error -- That there was a beehive here inside my heart And the golden bees were making white combs And sweet honey from all my failures." - Antonio Machado (An ode to the living spirit of compassion. Cocoa butter and shea, cotton flower, silk tree, apple blossom, wildflower honey, bee balm, and heliotrope. Wear this scent to conjure an atmosphere of loving kindness and receptivity.) With this collection, I can't get over the adorable clever names and She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee is such a gentle delightful scent creation that smells like cocoa butter, lemony bee balm (must also applaud the use of this heavenly underappreciated note) apple and the barest hint of honey. It almost reminds me of Pixie with the realistic apple blossom, however, She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee goes in a more slightly airy and fresh scented direction versus graham cracker and spring grass. I don't know about this scent potion creating loving kindness, but I do know this one calms me down in chaotic stress-filled spaces (like the packed supermarket) and I have been reaching for the vial especially this whole week for different reasons. Now the opening and initial hour after application are nice and pleasant, but I can't recommend the drydown on this one enough- it's a hint of remaining apple and lemon under creamy white chocolate and a kiss of honey. So pretty and hits the cravings, comfort factor and nostalgia elements perfectly. Nui Cobalt Designs As I have aged the holiday season has become cold and mournful (everyone you care for leaves and you are left staring at empty chairs and alone with shadows of regrets), however there are memories of once happy times that keep some spark of cheer glowing for myself in November through January and MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean somehow taps into those secret recollections with their realistic smelling gourmands, touches of vintage delight and whimsy and overall presentation that whisks all me away to a better place and time and I can't recommend this enchanting shop enough for someone that needs a smile or a unexpected reminder of comfort and joy not just in the winter months but throughout the year. Winter Spray-In Hair Tangler formula- I'll open this rambling long overdue review with first commenting on MoonaLisa's Hair Detangler formula which is a true holy grail for myself and something my vanity table will never be seen without. It's not only a compulsion anymore but an absolute necessity to stock up with as many bottles of these hair-loving elixirs as I can afford every release and then hoard them away to treat myself to a unique blend every morning and night. With my (past) waist length mane, I run through a generous sized bottle about every month and half and I truly receive my full money's worth with these products (I can't stop touching my soft manageable hair now). The longevity on the fragrance varies between each blend, however, I have discovered citrus and spice based bottles can last days in my hair. I know I keep saying this every post when it comes to MoonaLisa, but it's the truth: where has this product been all my life!? Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Description: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) As it says on the tin and this is my holy grail gingerbread fragrance home at last to spray and lavish my locks anytime I wish. To touch briefly on the scent composition (I still have the perfume and argan hair oil versions to gush about shortly) this is a rich spicy cookie scent with white chocolate icing very reminiscent of the old fashioned animal crackers we are all still looking for when we pass the cookie aisle or visit little mom & pop stores. When it comes to longevity I can enjoy about 3 days of spice, vanilla and happy thoughts with Iced Gingerbread in the detangler and I have found it pairs fabulously with different floral perfumes I happen to dab in my curls; lilac with Iced Gingerbread is my current favourite and fingers crossed a certain scent artist reads this and creates this magical marriage next year. Christmas Cocoa (Gathered Notes and Description: What warms your heart and hearth more than a steaming cup of Christmas Cocoa. Hot cocoa with an espresso shot, topped with gobs of whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon, chili and nutmeg, with a hint of sweet smoldering yule fire in the distance.) This is Moona's signature chocolate accord shot through with espresso and a glorious sky-high mound of realistic whipped cream with a dusting of spice and wisp of smoke. It was also one of the first bottles from this haul I was tempted to take a little taste of. The listed smoke is becoming more noticeable as this bottle is aging and I wore this detangler (along with my S'mores & Hot Cocoa perfume also by MoonaLisa) to a regional cake festival this past January and I had a few people leaning (uncomfortably) close and saying something smelled delicious while in a long line to get to the festival, so I guess those two fragrances are winners! For similar blends to look out for during the year, those that have had the pleasure to try Cauldron Cakes in the fall, you would love Christmas Cocoa. Snuggler (Gathered Notes and Description: The drink of choice while wintering in North Beach, San Francisco! Rich dark hot cocoa and peppermint schnapps.) Another fragrance I fell hard for last winter and had to indulge in a special treat for myself in 2019. The mysteries of skin chemistry still amaze me and hold so many surprises in store it seems because however how decadent and unexpectedly akin to dark chocolate cake Snuggler smells in the perfume verison, the peppermint schnapps amplifies in my hair with the detangler form and I do have to watch in case I'm taken for a holiday lush when first applied, haha oops. That punch of peppermint booze calms down though but I still enjoy this fragrance at home and may just spoil myself further next year and get a dusting powder to cover myself in. The longevity of Snuggler in the detangler is also impressive going on for nearly 2 days. Blood Orange & Chocolate (Gathered Notes and Description: Just like the traditional Yuletide candy treat! Made with only real Orange essential oil, as are ALL of our citrus oils are ALWAYS all natural! And rich, dark Chocolate fragrance and Cocoa Absolute) Sitting back I guess I collected quite a few chocolate blends with this haul and was craving something particular. Saying that, I'm sad to admit, Blood Orange & Chocolate wasn't exactly for me and I will stick with Whole for my dream winter orange aroma next year; this one although extremely realistic to chocolate covered oranges just didn't work in my hair as a fragrance. I bet Blood Orange & Chocolate would be divine in a soap or bath milk and I will try that form eventually as the orange is tart and sweet smelling while the cocoa absolute grounds it. I still used the entire bottle of this detangler and highly recommend it if you love the scent of chocolate covered fruit. Longevity and throw was mixed for this blend, certain times it would go for 2 days that I could still smell the citrus and others I couldn't smell it on my braid late that night. Ah well, that happens, can't fall for everything (and my pocketbook sighs in relief). Noona's Christmas Cookies (Gathered Notes and Description: A tribute to KC’s (Mooman) Sicilian Great-Grandmother. Made just like KC’s Nonna would make her special cookies ever year! A little of this, and a little of that) Well here's another bottle I was tempted to drink as Noona's Christmas Cookies is fresh oatmeal cookies from the oven drizzled in white chocolate, a hint of warm spice in the bottle and then has a bewitching realistic milky creaminess that amplifies in my hair. Mmm absolutely magnificent and I had to put a note on this bottle to use all others before even touching this scent confection again...and the bottle is nearly empty in June. I plan to hoard up on this scent come Yule 2020 in everything I can afford. For longevity this delicious smelling gem goes on for a day so I will definitely be layering it with the perfume, lotion, dusting powder and argan oil this coming winter to get the maxium scrumptious effect. I want to smell like a walking cookie! Argan Oil Hair Rescue formula- I can't have or recommend the detangler without mentioning the argan oil formula MoonaLisa offers because they are a match made in hair heaven and these products have worked absolute magic on my tresses. I have never had such shiny healthy looking hair. The Argan Oil I use after I have brushed out my mane with the aid of the Detangler then I add a dime size amount of argan oil in different scents to the end of my hair. If I have any excess oil on my hands I flip my hair down and place the excess in the back of my head. I run thru a bottle about every 3 months and they are worth every penny. Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Desciption: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) If anything the spices amplify a tiny bit more in the argan oil form which is perfectly okay with me as I can't stop talking about and stop waltzing about with this halo of irresistible gingerbread and white icing complete with vanilla extract and butter. I must hoard more next year and never run out. Milk Bath in Snuggler (Gathered Notes and Description: The drink of choice while wintering in North Beach, San Francisco! Rich dark hot cocoa and peppermint schnapps.) This was my first Milk Bath purchase and certainly not my last as the formula is gentle and moisturzing plus fragrant with a boozy peppermint patty scent I could just float in. I have also tested this item on my tresses and it works wonderfully as a mild shampoo in a pinch as well as a shaving lather and of course as a bubble bath formula (it makes a nice blanket of minty bubbles with the smallest drops added to running water). The milk bath itself is a pearlescent white when poured and the scent lasts as long as it takes to get out of my water filled sanctuary. I can immediately put on any perfume I choose and the aromas do not clash. I need this in The Rumpkin!, Kitchen Witch, Lilacs & Hyacinths (review coming soon) and my beloved Aurelia. Uh oh, this is the start of another fragrant collection, hehe. *Must mention the adorable pop-up ornament of a gingerbread house that was tucked in my order (this shop makes you feel so special with every package). I displayed it in my office at work, thank you so much Moona! Snow Ice (Gathered Notes and Description: Fond memories Moona has when a child at camp during the Nevada snows, making natural "ice cream" from ice cold snow, condensed milk, Sugar and Vanilla extract. This scent is reminiscent of that: sweet crystallized vanilla sugar and cream) Mmm! What can I say this is another holy grail perfume for me as this is most delectable vanilla I have encountered in the indie realm [claps]. Snow Ice is sublime, a true masterpiece as it's dreamy and gourmand but never childish or cloying and anyone could wear this as it isn't heavy and perfect for the workplace setting. I call this "lace ice cream" because it's so pretty, finishes off any look and yet so delicous smelling. I know this is a winter scent but I happily wear this oil all year round, very happy I purchased a full bottle. Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Desciption: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) The search is over, THIS is the gingerbread perfume of my dreams I have been searching for ever since I stepped foot into the indie perfume realm. We have here the ideal gingerbread scent sealed in a bottle along with a whiff of iced animal crackers I fondly remember and even a trace of butter and old-fashioned vanilla extract that appears after 6 hours. It's warm, comforting, incredibly realistic AND it stays on my skin more than 10 minutes (I finally have a gingerbread scent confection I can wear everywhere). I'm so happy and can't stop dancing! Surprise Extra Gifts (thank you, MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean) The Gloaming perfume oil (Birch, silver fir, spruce, Cypress, peppermint, frankincense, cinnamon bark) *a sample that appeared in my one yule order/ there were 2 and I combined them for this review. This shop is renowned for their gourmand scents but they also do realistic resins and earthy fragrances magnificently as well and The Gloaming is a perfect example. When applied it's like being directly underneath a pine tree with the needles and dirt, it's extremely relaxing and has a meditative quality I can lose myself in. I swear I smell unlisted patchouli as I'm receiving that familiar "peanut butter and metal mix" my skin chemistry morphs patchouli into with different blends and I'm in love. The refreshing peppermint appears hours later and I have been using The Gloaming to escape the June heat as I fall asleep. I hope this fragrance appears this coming winter because I would love a detangler and bath milk or bath salt pot in The Gloaming. I think Krampus Night! has some competition. Simmering Potpourri in Yuletide Cheer (Listed as "an all natural blend of All-spice, Grapefruit peels, Cinnamon Star Anice, Nutmeg, Ginger Root, Hibiscus, Sea Salt & Essential Oils") In the bag, it's sweet fruit with seasonal spices that smell like Wassail or Glogg without the alcohol and I don't know about anyone else but this and the sparkle spray that appeared in the Halloween boxes need to be permanent items with each release. When in the heated pot the fragrance is intoxicating and my house is filled with the heavenly scent of spice and fruit. Bulldog funk is no match for Yuletide Cheer as it transforms everything and brightens moods to all that smell it when they visit. I hope this returns next winter. What a creative extra something special to finish this amazing haul. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean *review composed in February 2020
Admittedly the winter corner of my vast perfume collection was a little lacking so when I saw the theme for Stereoplasm's Winter 2020 collection, I had to indulge. These vials and bottles have only rested over a week, but I said it once and I'll say it again: Stereoplasm somehow outdoes themselves with every release. The spread I'm about to ramble about is filled with rich florals, hyperrealistic smelling velvets, brocades and fancy dressings, intriguing quasi-gourmands and of course classic bottled romanticism that all harkens back to a complex era of innovation and change. All I can say is, brava Stereoplasm! *All of the following were purchased on Black Friday (with the exception of Bleak House and Chimney Sweep which were free samples in my order) and are becoming stronger with their longevity and sillage from when they first arrived. I can expect around 6 to 10+ hours on my dry winter skin and even longer on my neck and hair. Crinoline (Linen extrait de Parfum, ash lye, blue lace macarons, white tea, hazelnut truffles, peppermint and almond petit fours.) On me, I get realistic sweet almond extract mixed with hazelnut and peppermint for the first hour on my skin then Crinoline slowly morphs to warm steeped tea and a swirl of peppermint which all completely dries down to a hidden sophisticated jasmine "glass clinking" vintage perfume scent that is a mystery unto itself. Absolutely magnificent and for longevity it went on for nearly 10 hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. Spectres in Dresses (Faded ivory lace, tortoiseshell aigrette, powdered-skin musk, dried jasmine petals, white amber and silk chemise.) This blend starts out similar to The Green Ribbon with an unlisted lilac note then Spectres in Dresses amps the promised jasmine and turns clean and a little powdery before completely drying down to all lovely vintage white amber and floral which lasts until the next morning. It's unapologetically feminine and tells a beguiling scent story on me. A true keeper for my vanity table, events and the workplace setting. Victoria (Devon cream, blueberry Langues de Chat, brocade, English ivy, guillotine blades, rust and granite.) In the bottle we are tempted by the marvellous blueberry cream and a curious hint of saltiness and when applied that blueberry sets out an early spring scene which is unexpected as each following note blooms and opens. The stone and distinct metal scent are wet smelling like after a cold rainstorm and the longer this oil dries the more it brings to mind an oddly timed garden party under a tent with brocade chairs set out to lounge upon. Everything about this party seems "off" and even a bit sinister, but you dare not leave. It's something to experience and I can't say I have anything like Victoria in my collection. Who knew blueberry, rust, cold stone with hyperrealistic brocade material would create such a peculiar regal fragrance. Jam Tart (Spanish Seville & ginger marmalade, short crust pastry, carmine, crepe paper, drops of belladonna and rose petal rouge.) I couldn't but giggle when I saw the name for this creation and the clever infusion of notes but alas, Jam Tart and I aren't meant to be. On me, I get sweet bubblegum and laundry bubbles and it doesn't morph like all the others I've tried. It's pretty there is no doubt of that, however, I was desiring something a bit "peppery" and naughty. Instead, it's very playful and sweet on me and I guess I amp ginger versus the other notes. I know it's still early so I will wait to see how this blend changes after some patience. Chimney Sweep (Conifer trees, resinous pinecone, crumbling soot, aged brick, Russian leather, cologne musk and gin sweetened with black licorice.) Step in time! Kick your knees up and take me away, you seductive mixture of leather, resin and licorice! Whew, Chimney Sweep is something else. There is an element of refinement to this that lends to the story of a handsome character with a double life which is unexpected and certainly appreciated. Licorice is my weakness in any blend and here it is showcased, but I wouldn't call Chimney Sweep a gourmand, oh no, the soft leather, pine and slight dirtiness of the soot and crumbled brick elevates this oil from a linear foody scent to one sophisticated swoon-worthy fragrance in the end. I need more pairings of licorice and leather in my collection; brilliant! Librarian (Vintage perfume, rosewater, aged paper, velvet upholstery, cherrywood, cognac, orange butter and mulling spices.) Here's another oil full of surprises because the first notes that hit my nose on opening are orange starburst candy and leather, wild right? Thankfully that all changes over to this fabulous velvet upholstery aroma that has absolutely floored me throughout this release and it's paired with aged paper, cognac, warm spice and a splash of rosewater and orange. These accords balance one another and Librarian ends the night as soft and inviting like your favourite armchair in the library by a sunlight stained glass window or lamp. Bleak House (Dusty carpet, labdanum, dark chocolate, leather shoes, pits of plum, hourglass sand and obsidian musk.) Oh, Heathcliff is that you?! This is the scent of an elegant figure of secrecy with a brooding dark side you can't help but want to get to know more about. You know you should stay away for your mother warned you of confident figures with sweet words and promises, but it's impossible to resist his charms and you can stare into the fires together late at night and listen to the howling winds and rain. Leather again here is the unexpected refined captivator and it is married to dry cocoa with plum (which is always a charming combination in my book), a little saltiness from the hourglass sand, and a hyperrealistic scent of carpet that immediately brings to mind fine antique rugs. Now, this is an entrancing atmospheric. Can I hand this out to available men on street corners? Both Bleak House and Chimney Sweep (*leans more unisex) are going right next to Deconstructing Eden's Truth Universally Acknowledged, Sixteen92's Lycanthrope and Salem and Strange Fire & Fumery's Fougère du Étrange for all different reasons, hehe. Mourning Glory (Thick black velvet curtains, bruised palmarosa leaves, Shanghai spice, wilted white carnations and bible leather.) For a brief moment on application, I get a whiff of sweet bubblegum on my skin then Mourning Glory changes entirely to aged leather, realistic carnation and soft warm spice. The promised "thick black velvet curtain" material reveals itself soon afterwards and I'm happy to jot down Stereoplasm's fantastic leather book accord (complete with the distinct aroma of antique yellowed pages) stays wonderfully balanced the whole time between the spice and florals, instead of screeching forward or turning acrid and burning to my nose which can happen so often on my skin from other leather blends. Overall, Mourning Glory is a little Gothic gem I think will work best as a bedtime fragrance for myself. For others, this is a fragrance to take out and show off, but alas I have nowhere to share; so I will pair this with treasured Gothic Literature and let Mourning Glory take me away to an awaiting dark melodrama. Stereoplasm *review composed in January 2020
2019 belonged to Nui Cobalt Designs and one other shop in my book and my collection just continues to expand with every release as I discover a new note I never thought I would love and another blue beauty of a bottle to bring home to display on my vanity. Here were the blends that arrived and brought in the new year with only good things to come for 2020. Merry Christmas to all celebrating today! *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. The following oils last between 5 to 12+ hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. Purchased on Black Friday: Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with a polished vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. It's soft and suggestive, speaking from a forgotten era of beauty and gentility. Starlight & Spider Silk (Swift and skillful, her instinct's artistry glimmers with deadly precision. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans.) I don't know how Forest did it but this is the scent of clear gossamer swaying in the breeze and morning dewdrops with elegant vanilla. On me, there is something nearly floral and creamy about Starlight & Spider Silk (don't you love all of these poetic and perfectly matched names?). I don't have anything to compare this oil to currently in my vast collection. Wow, this is stunning and I can't help but think of waltzing spirits and one song in particular (Once Upon a December) when I have Starlight & Spider Silk dabbed all over. I can expect 12 hours of sophisticated perfection with this perfume and couldn't have asked for more. Fairy Lights (A whimsical blend to invoke joy and the true spirit of the season. Their glow is the quintessence of Yuletide. Bright white copal softens into golden cathedral incense and wild honeycomb, then nestles into a deep dark vanilla and luxuriant amber.) For the colder days and months to soon arrive, I wanted to seek out something that reminded me of happier memories of the holiday season and Fairy Lights became THE scent of 2019 I was determined to have. Although well blended, it's not quite what I was searching for, however, I'm falling for this fragrance slowly for the soft elegance that radiants from this oil that indeed reminds me of the appearance of Victorian Fairy Light. It's smooth and comforting with a hidden mint note that I'm guessing is the copal (or possible unlisted Palo santo) melding with my chemistry and with patient aging the warm honey note is coming more forward after the 4-hour mark then lasting until the end of my 12-hour shift. Another blend I can't say I have anything in my collection to compare to and with that Fairy Lights is a keeper, but my search continues for a realistic cathedral incense, sweet honey and beeswax perfume to call my mine and smells like my childhood Christmas Eve. Warm Fuzzies (The scent of softness and tender affection. Ripened peaches, cotton flower, flax, leaves of lamb's ear, smooth sandalwood, skin-warmed wool, a touch of Ceylon cinnamon and a sprinkle of ginger. Wear this comforting blend to encourage gentle kisses, wistful smiles, and acts of loving kindness.) *sample vial appeared in my Black Friday order. When I first opened Warm Fuzzies it brought to mind Wicked Pumpkin just without the pumpkin and maple as the peach immediately attached to my skin and amplified and I'm not going to lie, I was concerned as peach can turn into an ode to a tomcat, on me. Thankfully that hasn't happened and Warm Fuzzies is a soft peach that stays a dewy peach and smells also of clean sheets and a fresh grating of ginger. It has been accompanying me to work as the scent stays close and brings to mind warm spring sunlight. Press Samples: The Star (The light of hope and the power of renewal. Winter citrus, chilled champagne, neroli, dogwood, angelica, frankincense, clover honey, porcelain musk, and snow-covered sandalwood. This sacred scent invokes Grace and fulfillment in all areas of life, from material prosperity to emotional wellness.) This is an aptly named blend as The Star is bright and golden with a glass of joyous bubbly champagne and sweetened citrus on opening that slowly changes over to warm honey and finishes out the night with a stunning powdery finale. It can be slightly more soapy on application than I usually prefer, but that dry down with floral kissed honey and vintage creamy powder is what makes The Star a festive keeper for me. I'm curious if the overly clean scent will be tempered in the coming year or if it just my wonky chemistry that is ultimately latching onto the champagne and strong citrus. Cozy (A potion for peace and contentment. The vanillic scent of very old books, winter spices drifting from the kitchen, glowing beeswax candles, a blanket around your shoulders, and a Douglas fir adorned with lights. Wear this scent when you crave stillness and silence. It has a talent for putting the outside world into decidedly softer focus.) As it says on the tin, the vanillic scent of dusty well-loved books, a dusting of spices and the warm glow of realistic beeswax candles. The fir note is very faint on me, but that's expected as my skin eats pine. As Cozy dries down an orange note appears that dances between gourmand and atmospheric when the familiar comforting wool yarn aroma from Favorite Sweater hits my nose. I'm going to be using Cozy in unscented argan oil for this winter season, I want those beautiful fir, beeswax and yarn notes to all really amp and take me away. Mauna Kea (The snow-capped domain of the sky father, Wakea and modern-day passage to the stars. This summit attracts astronomers from around the world, as its observatories are second to none. Glacial mountain air, bitter almond spiked with rosemary, white vanilla orchid, frozen coconut, and starlight. Wear this bracing blend to sharpen your senses and hone your powers of perception.) I came for the gorgeous description and stayed for the sweet delicate almond, bracing fresh coconut and familiar "starlight" impression from another favourite oil I now own a full bottle of. This oil is stunning and I can easily imagine the immense heavens above with winking stars and coolness from a mountain top carried with the wind. I know it sounds silly, but when I don Mauna Kea, I always feel like I'm replicating the scene from How the Grinch Stole Christmas when the Grinch realizes he is growing a heart and "is feeling", this is me with the coconut. Am I a coconut lover now, who will pay for and swoon with every tropical-themed release? It's hard to say and now that's all for today...uh, in any case, I LOVE Mauna Kea and will be saving up for a bottle to grace my vast vanilla collection. This is akin to Starlight & Spidersilk who took a little tropical holiday. Snowflakes & Spider Silk (Our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk takes a merry turn for the winter holidays. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, grapefruit sorbet, fresh ginger root, and fluffy white meringue. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight.) Now here's a blend for my moody little self as on application, Snowflakes & Spidersilk has a more of gourmand exterior leaning almost candyish with the sweetened grapefruit sorbet and vanilla (like a fancy skittle) and is backed by the familiar glowing and slightly haunting "starlight" from Starlight & Spidersilk. All very unexpected and it has me questioning if this combination may be "too happy" for myself to pull off. On the other side of the coin, there's no harm wearing all black and smelling like a fancy skittle, right? I need to think more about Snowflakes & Spidersilk for next year as one of my resolutions was to be a bit more selective of the bottles I bring home. I can't have them all (I keep telling myself). Olympe de Gouges (Born into French aristocracy in the 1700s, she was an unexpected champion of human rights. Olympe wrote bold treatises against slavery and sexism that influenced powerful minds in government. She is credited with the prescient statement, "A woman has the right to mount the scaffold. She must possess equally the right to mount the speaker's platform." She was beheaded in 1793. The fragrance inspired by her is a decidedly bourgeois composition of orange flower, rose, sandalwood, bergamot, and violet infused into ivory leather gloves.) Blame what I'm currently reading and my stellar experience with Nui Cobalt's The Netherfield Ballroom candle, (that carries a similar scent profile) but when I smelled this vial I knew I found something very special for my collection. This shop has this marvellous way with violet and leather notes that somehow play nice on my skin (what wonderous sorcery is that?!) and Olympe de Gouges is a lovely scent that harkens back to another time all together and I must move some things around to purchase a bottle next year. I get all the florals at different points after application, but the vintage rose is the note that rises to the top at the moment with soft leather staying in the background instead of screeching forward which can sometimes happen with my wonky chemistry (same with violets). I have been wearing this soft powdery floral wonder to the workplace setting and Olympe de Gouges will also be accompanying me to different historical events in 2020. Diamonds in the Snow (A glistening expanse of freshly fallen snow in the moonlight. Iced lavender, lemon, and juniper enshrouded in ivory satin, white clove, and crushed coriander with a base of vanilla sugar. Wear this elegant scent when you want to steal the spotlight and stand out from the crowd.) Well with a name of Diamonds in the Snow there was no doubt I had to try this and ooh, this is pretty. Nui Cobalt does herbals like no other and the stars of this blend are the realistic calming lavender and clove with coriander that adds just a touch of mystery and the unexpected to this oil. If you love creamy cool scents, Diamonds in the Snow is a must to try. These oils have been peacefully aging for a few weeks now and the "ivory satin" impression is out today to steal the show and I can't stop smelling my wrist and imagining classy ladies from various literature attending a gala event decked out all in glistening crystals and creamy white. I may need to expand my top 5 list to 7 by the end of this session of reviews as Diamonds in the Snow deserves a choice spot and has a welcoming place on my vanity waiting. Snow Cat ("...watching the cat's breath gently fog up the window in fleeting wisps as the sun rises grey-white through the cloud cover. her ice eyes, buttons of sky."- poetry by Jenn Zahrt The very essence of Hygge: lightly toasted marzipan, ivory amber, chilled coconut milk, and the soft fur of a purring kitten. Wear this comforting blend for instant soothing and solace.) By now it's no mystery I love powdery and creamy fresh perfumes, I crave them, I hoard them and ramble about them. So here's another to add to my growing lists of professional and comforting gems to save for as Snow Cat has taken my workplace by storm and I have received quite a few compliments which who are we kidding, always brightens one's day (or night). These notes alone should be loud and obtrusive on me (even spooky with the almond) yet somehow they only create a peaceful delicate sweetness that others around me gravitate towards. Er, I'm not doing so well being more selective with these blends as I want Snow Cat in my winter drawer. I can't have enough work safe perfumes that carry a graceful quality to them and Nui Cobalt dominates that desired fragrance description for me. Incense, Gold, and Myrhh (A sparkling spin on an ancient tradition. Cathedral resins and angelica are warmed by tangerine pomanders studded with cloves, Tupelo honey, regal amber, calendula petals, true Ceylon cinnamon, and saffron. Wear this sacred scent to attract health, wealth, and wisdom in the coming year.) I'm still on the hunt for the perfect wintery incense perfume with honey that sweeps me back to Christmas Midnight Mass and Holy Supper and this one is close (actually if the odd mint note in Fairy Lights was replaced with the incense in this, it would be sublime) however in the end somehow reminds me more of the Brittish side of my heritage versus Slavic/Russian. It's smokey and the pomander note with cinnamon is dominant on me bringing to mind all the puddings my grandmother would make and the decorations around the house. I adore anything with cinnamon and Incense, Gold, and Myrrh is something I can truly say I don't have which is a smoky incense infused cinnamon/pomander perfume. The search, however, continues for my Christmas Eve in a bottle but I still would love a vivid blue bottle of Incense, Gold, and Myrrh on my vanity. Snowball Fight (The scent of shared laughter and unbridled enthusiasm. Poached pears, rice pudding with nutmeg and allspice, a drizzle of caramel and a single fresh bay leaf. Wear this joyful scent to lift your mood and invoke a celebratory spirit.) To my nose, this is a delightful cousin scent of the much-beloved Little Brown Rabbit but without the opening clean fluffy laundry note, oh no, this is comforting nutmeg, warm spice, caramelized dipped pears and a hidden honey note I want to slather always and forever. Don't get me wrong I enjoy the fluffy clean element of Little Brown Rabbit, however, the dry down is what is my favourite from that perfume and Snowball Fight is exactly what I have been hoping to find. There is nothing so wintery and perfect as nutmeg, pears and honey in my book and this scent potion showcases these treasured notes beautifully. Ah, Snowball Fight is comfort and joy in a bottle and I will be dancing around with my very own soon. Sworn Enemy of Convention: Tribute to Hedy Lamarr (Lauded by Hollywood as "the most beautiful woman in the world," Hedy Lamarr's true genius was revealed in her invention of the multi-frequency torpedo guidance system. It wasn't implemented by the US military in WWII as she had intended, but it did lay the foundation for Code Division Multiple Access: the system on which modern cell phone communication is built. Her birthday, November 9th, is now known as Inventor's Day in her home country of Austria. The fragrance inspired by her is the scent of Hollywood's Golden Age: sparkling white grapefruit, golden sandalwood, deep amber resin, and fine fur accord. Wear this glamorous scent to reveal your hidden powers and secret strengths.) Oh, Hedy. It's not you, it's me. You smell so pretty in the vial and it figures my chemistry completely destroys such a beautifully researched oil. I'm still trying to figure out what went wrong with this one and I have a sneaking suspicion it's the combination of the sparkling grapefruit, wood and fine fur accord because Sixteen92's Redrum smells very similar on me in the way of instead of a classy event or a harken back to another era, I'm getting an amplifying sharp cloying chemical note which I can't learn to love no matter how hard I try. Apologies folks, my chemistry is just evil and delights in torturing me. I read Sworn Enemy of Convention was exquisite on others and I'm completely jealous (and I want to smell like a ghost from the RMS Titanic with Redrum:(). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Hell Freezes Over (A daring and diabolical scent for getting into delicious trouble. Decadent devil's food cake, still warm from the oven, fluffy marshmallow frosting and the lightest dusting of crushed candy cane. Wear this voluptuous gourmand fragrance only if you're prepared to be on the Naughty list.) Mmm more of a gooey batter cake fragrance on me versus a true baked cake scent, but I like this (I mean who doesn't enjoy eating cake batter from the beater?). It's hard to find a perfume with candy canes listed and they are front and centre on my skin which is perhaps my chemistry trying in vain to apologize for the disaster it made of Hedy Lamarr and Redrum. I've not forgiven it...but the fluffy marshmallow frosting that is now coming forward is easing the pain of betrayal a little. Interesting the chocolate fades fast and the peppermint and marshmallow take over. I'm okay with that, haha. Longevity overall is shorter than the others in this batch, with Hell Freezes Over still detectable at 5 hours. I'm going to experiment with this oil in whipped soap and report back another day. Under the Mistletoe (A romantic melange of white winter rose, frozen vanilla, a mahogany mantle decked with holly, golden spiced rum, gilded magnolia, and flickering candlelight. Wear this potion to attract love and encourage kisses.) Mmm Hello, you boozy floral tease, would you like to come home to me? Oh, magnolia wow that note comes forward to say a lot when first applied. I guess I amp the buttery lemon quality of magnolia and dark properties of mahogany. I was hoping this would be a bright lighthearted sister scent of my beloved Exsanguinated (yes, a little dark-hearted individual can get the strange happy urge to deck the halls and sing out of key with the best of them once in a blue moon, I mean if there are roses, spice, "flickering candlelight" and something so prettily named as Under the Mistletoe to drench herself in of course). Okay, time to be firm. Even though exceptionally lovely (oh, the dreamy vanilla is coming through now and sweetness factor is kicking in), the roses are being overshadowed by the magnolia and I don't need a bottle right now. See that's firm, I can wait and hope this pretty little number comes back next Winter. Baby steps. Nui Cobalt Designs It's no secret autumn is my favourite season and every year I try to seek out the most unique (but wearable) perfumes for the changing of the leaves, windy stormy midnight walks and workplace celebrations/events and I must say, Stereoplasm ended up sharing the title of rulers over my vanity this season with one other house of fragrance. Their blends were out of the box, touched on some personal nostalgia and even created some new memories with one specific blend. This is a shop to watch (they seriously somehow outdo themselves with every release)! From The Witch’s Complete Autumn Compendium Owl Eyes (Ancient Joshua tree, labdanum, golden amber eyes, a toasted sliver of rye bread, intoxicating sticky resin and Arabian myrrh) In the bottle, it's resins, myrrh and the realistic aroma of fresh rye bread that all catch my full attention as these notes conjure the vision of a golden-eyed owl perched in a pine tree. Applied, more of the bright resins amplify with the amber adding a distinguished warmth behind the bright notes and the rye bread has completely disappeared. On me, Owl Eyes has a vintage cologne streak that I wasn't expecting but I oddly enjoy it, I think I'll just tuck this one away in the "someday pile" as I think this would make a fabulous fragrance for a gentleman. Mandrake (Pumpkin vines and flesh, wet cobblestones, toadstools in soft mulch, cinnamon bark, decaying leaves, wild tobacco) Mandrake is grounding and comforting at the same time with realistic warm cinnamon bark and earthy mulch and autumn forest floor with mossy stones. This is the scent of a healer in the autumn woods and hiding in the background is a drop of vanilla tobacco [claps]. Who knew mulch paired with cinnamon bark would create something so perfect and addictive to sniff throughout the night. Also interesting to note the cobblestone accord is more like rocks found in the rich dirt with no overpowering sweetness that can sometimes appear with "stone" blends to jot down. I wore this blend this past Halloween and it matched my autumn forest spirit costume wonderfully. If you love the intoxicating scent of cinnamon broom, Mandrake is a must to try. Skeleton Polish (A quicksilver mirror reflects plumes of opium smoke surrounding sugared pears, a goblet of emerald-green absinthe and black silk) Fellow absinthe perfume collectors, rejoice and gather round because you're not going to want to miss Skeleton Polish. I don't know how Meaghan did it but this smells like pear licorice and smooth silk and I'm not afraid to admit, I fell hard for this bottle. Not only did it convert an indie perfume hater at my workplace (she never complimented my perfumes until I wore Skeleton Polish or asked about trying indies until that night) but this is also somehow "airy" in ways without being soapy and I swear I recognize a drop of violet from World’s Fair 1893 in this. Mmm so delightfully creepy and elegant at the same time. Batwing Brew (Delicate seeds of sesame, rich wood-smoked vanilla, buckwheat honey, crystallized ginger root, eye of plumeria and leathery wing of bat) This one has morphed quite a bit from when it first arrived and now I properly understand its name. The first week, Batwing Brew was sesame sticks, a hint of unlisted sandalwood with honey and more of a gourmand that wasn't as witchy as I was anticipating but still quite delightful and a pleasant bedtime fragrance. A month later NOW we are talking with some contrasting notes that have appeared, I get soft leather and warm honey that dries down to smoked vanilla that brings out the all hallow's eve vibes and is perfect for walking out into the swirling winds to embrace the final moments of fall (it's not over yet!). I'm not sure what plumeria smells like so I can't identify that note and I'm convinced now my chemistry eats ginger. Overall, I'm impressed and may have to start collecting leather and honey medleys because Batwing Brew is lovely with just that right amount of unexpected (have to keep them guessing;)). The Green Ribbon (Crushed velvet, roasted pumpkin seeds, creaking sandalwood floorboards, beheaded flower stems, skin musk, lies and deceit) I asked for a ghost story and Stereoplasm delivered one hell of a gorgeous scent story with this blend that opens with unlisted realistic ghostly lilac and then it shifts and morphs to salted pumpkin seeds with creamy sandalwood and finally dries down to the scent of the inside of a velvet lined music box with flower stems and a drop of metal. How in the world is this all possible? I'm floored to add The Green Ribbon to my collection and don't know what else to say except The Green Ribbon is the bottled treasured scary story I have been waiting for since I stepped into the Indie realm👏💀 Brava, my dear! Woman in White (Juniper, white sage, Heather, a blueberry bush drenched in evening dew, soft fur, sweet pea) In the bottle Woman in White dances back and forth from fresh blueberries to crushed juniper and a floral but alas on my skin, this oil turns into a soapy feminine version of Mothman. Perhaps there is a drop of sulfur in this that is reminding me of Mothman as I get that "metal buzzing" note in the background. Woman in White didn't exactly work well on my skin but it does smell enchanting in my locks. Another keeper for my unscented whipped soaps and argan oils. From the La Belles Dame Sans Merci collection Temptress of the Ancients: (Dried lavender, joshua tree, hanging gardens, magnolia champaca, camphor and fresh fig) In the vial, it's a bushel of dried lavender tied with a silk ribbon. When it applied the opening is realistic dried lavender that then morphs to this incredible floral forest mix that dances between ethereal and seductively addicting. I just learned to identify magnolia this past summer and it is indeed present adding a buttery lemon-like heart to this fragrance. I also get a hint of the camphor and joshua tree smelling a little like pine in the background. Overall, a very wearable fragrance for a night out or sitting at your desk staring out the window at the swaying trees. Rubies from your Lips: (Twilight musk, smoked woodsage, carnation corsage, holy water, green clove, damp soil and grave moss) I have a confession: I have a complicated relationship with carnation as when I smell it I go straight to a dark place and it takes forever for me to climb out of that place and lock that door again but at the same time, it's impossible to not to admire a perfect ruffled shaped bloom in someone's garden or in old paintings. Rubies From Your Lips, thankfully is more moss dominant on me with clove and a subdued sweet innocent floral that is still noticeable but not overpowering at the base (there may even be a hidden citrus or fruit dripped on the carnation petals). It's a pretty blend, however, it fades and disappears on me within an hour. His heart to Drink: (Sour blackberries, lodestone, deer musk, willow oak, copper, faded cologne and silver crucifix) Here is another scent potion that has been growing on me since it arrived as the first week it was grape jolly ranchers with metal and cologne but what a month of patience has done for this oil. The sour berries have given way to realistic metal and the forest elements on my skin. His heart to Drink (gah, I love these names and saying them when people ask what I'm wearing) stays close but conjures one seductive tale that is hard not to lean in more to learn about. Definitely another keeper and one to wear when I'm reading some spicy Victorian or Regency Era gothic romance. Unlisted Collection Lady in Roses (Freshly clipped Bulgarian and American Roses, Black Ink, Aged Leather Book Binding and Baby's Breath) *appeared in my order as a full 6ml bottle. Thank you so much, Meaghan! I think Stereoplasm has been secretly reading my dream perfume diary because ladies and gentlemen, this is the scent of Belle in her castle library! I'm over the moon that I have so many treasured films, book characters and special stories in scent form to slather and dab to my heart's content. For those possibly turning their noses up to an oil I say brings to mind an animated Disney character, allow me to explain and describe this gem. The roses are fresh, realistic and non-soapy nor do they carry the smell of hairspray. This classic elegant floral melds so perfectly with the unmistakable aroma of an old book that releases that wonderful crackling sound when you open it and inhale the dusty pages of knowledge. I usually amp leather to the heavens and can make myself quite ill, but not so with Lady in Roses, it's the perfect balance of floral and soft leather binding. It's a sophisticated rose perfume with baby's breath serving as a bookmark in an aged tome. I think I found the perfect rose combination to use for my future perfume custom (a work in progress). Stereoplasm Roses So Red "The children know." "Know what exactly Miss Colburn?" "They know about the dreadful cries in the night, the mysterious light outside my door and of my missing pearl brooch". A cold shudder ran through Evalyn Colburn as she mouthed those words she had been denying to herself for the past 6 months. The young woman sighed and leaned against the damp window as she confessed her thoughts to Mrs Phelps and let her weary eyes descend to the floor as she tried to contemplate all that had occurred ever since she entered Norworth Hall to an answer of a hurried advertisement for an accomplished governess for the two nieces and nephew of Mr and Mrs Merrill Norworth. The excitement and sense of worth that coursed through Evalyn that uncommonly warm April morning as she stepped with such conviction and composture from the travelling carriage now were replaced with a mere shadow of that young woman who introduced herself to her employers and their cursed relations. From the moment she entered Norworth Hall, Evalyn's personality, interests and her posture had been altered to worst degree and as she let her pale eyes slowly rise to meet the gaze of the head housekeeper Lettie Phelps on that dismal October evening in 1839, the frightful realization that a glimpse of a smirk pulled at the older woman's wrinkled maw; she seemed to enjoy watching the torment that now plagued the governess. Or was that a play of the dancing lamplight? "I assure you, Miss Colburn, the cries you speak of are sadly master Bennet with his night terrors and the light in the hallway, that is me, miss. I check the doors and windows at night as requested by Mrs Norworth and to the whereabouts of your missing brooch, perhaps YOU misplaced it." The dead empty stare that now exuded from the ancient housekeeper emphasized by the hungry shadows seemed to pierce into the young girl's very soul and cause her to fidget and brush imaginary creases out of her drab muslin dress with her ashen hand. Evalyn despised that stare which seemed to be the only expression anyone in the household could muster when asked a question or was speaking to her. Another icy shiver ran the length of the governess's spine as she crossed the room, she then stopped and replied with a defeated sigh. "I apologize then. I have not been feeling well and I think it best that this to be my last night at Norworth Hall. I will send a missive to Mrs Norworth and be leaving in the morning." "As you wish miss". Upstairs in the small sanctuary that served as the governess's quarters, Evalyn stared into a small cracked looking-glass. Her face was so sallow from nervous weight loss and her stomach churned suddenly when the lifeless blank stare of Norworth Hall mocked back from the glass. No, she wouldn't the strange despair that seemed to seep from the very corners and floorboards of the house consume her. To break the oppressing silence she tried to laugh and allow herself a ghost of a smile, but the sound she uttered and reflection just taunted her, only echoing as unfamiliar. Was she going mad? Shaking her head she promised herself she would smile and laugh again just as soon as she left that horrid house. Norworth Hall was in itself irregular and its owners only added to its strangeness. The curious requests of her at first were endured and seen only as eccentric, but now they seemed to play into her concerns. There was the cutting of her long hair, the request of wearing the same dress every day, the notion that she drink from one particular teacup and of course the prompting of certain colours only viewed in one room every other day. What did it all mean? The need to rest triumphed over the clumsy attempts lifting then placing aside the missive that was started and scratched out half a dozen times. A blink then nod into an uneasy slumber was disturbed by a bizarre noise that caused her to abandon her little sanctuary and follow the interruption toward the children's nursery. "Glove, hood and thimbles of fox What pretty dress should we wear? What should we put in our hair? The jackdaws gather a shiny trinket for the king and sing Where is Odelia? Where is Edythe? Have you seen Hanna? In the garden, in the garden With roses so red! Should we tell Evalyn they are all dead? Shhh...." A chorus of giggles concluded the eerie song. Evalyn pushed open the door and hardly able to utter the question she dreaded, she choked. "What...what did you say?" With angelic smiles, all three Norworth children chanted together. "Roses so red Good evening, Uncle Merrill!" -EGP It isn't Halloween or officially fall at my house anymore without a large order from MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean and with this huge (beautifully presented) parcel I learned there are a hundred different variations of pumpkin, spice and everything nice that I just want to roll around in. This was only part one of my Moonaween 2019 haul. Witch's Brew Leave In De-Tangler formula- I'll open this rambling long overdue review with first commenting on MoonaLisa's Hair Detangler formula which is a true holy grail for myself and something my vanity table will never be seen without. It's not only a compulsion anymore but an absolute necessity to stock up with as many bottles of these hair-loving elixirs as I can afford every release and then hoard them away to treat myself to a unique blend every morning and night. With my (past) waist length mane, I run through a generous sized bottle about every month and half and I truly receive my full money's worth with these products (I can't stop touching my soft manageable hair now). The longevity on the fragrance varies between each blend, however, I have discovered citrus and spice based bottles can last days in my hair. I know I keep saying this every post when it comes to MoonaLisa, but it's the truth: where has this product been all my life!? The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) Making up over half my first order comes my favourite blend from Moona known to all as The Rumpkin!. When it comes to the perfume oil version versus the detangler form there isn't any difference with strength of the scent I can comment on. All the notes morph and shift with the passing hours and this one gets attention and compliments no matter what form I don for the night. Cauldron Cakes (Deliciously sinful Cauldron Cakes oozing with melted Butter, Cinnamon, and Maple and Vanilla glaze, with a crushed nutting topping, and served with piping hot cappuccino and a tiny, tiny touch of Witching mischief!) I fell hard for my perfume sample of Cauldron Cakes in 2018 and have been patiently saving and circling the site waiting for the day I could spritz my locks to my heart's content with intoxicating maple, butter and realistic fancy cappuccino. It's divine and another rare find for myself that I can wear anything coffee noted. Out of all the bottles of detanglers I purchased this round, Cauldron Cakes lasted the longest running 3 days that I could clearly smell it when I flipped my curls. Another keeper and repurchase for 2020. The Evil Garden (The peaches, apples, plums and pears that are guarded by ferocious bears. Too bad the nurse has disappeared, but in her place has revered, gorgeous flowers that have a smell, which causes one to feel unwell. (but you won't) All these months later and I'm still trying to decipher the notes. When sprayed I get an initial blast of "airy" apple and pear that then morphs to this creepy cotton candy scent with possible freesia and almonds. It's growing on me, but at the same time, it reminds me of this one perfume I wore to my first dance many years ago that ended with me crying trying to find a ride home (thanks brain for hanging onto that lovely memory, hate you too). I have nothing against anything smelling like cotton candy, it's just an unfortunate association that always hits me. I think I need to wear The Evil Garden to a happy event and rebuild my memory attached to anything cotton candy and apple scented. On the plus side, my hair is so soft and fragrant and I do love pear with plums. Kitchen Witch (The aroma of a Kitchen Witch fills the air with sweet, haunting memories, of magic, warmth and spice! The sweet and mouthwatering aroma of creamy Pumpkin Pies, fresh baked Crusts and Cakes, melted Butter, Pecans, Brown Sugar, Vanilla Extract and a touch of spice!) Kitchen Witch and The Evil Garden were fragrances I had never tried before even in perfume samples so imagine the comical scene of me opening the cap to Kitchen Witch and making the most embarrassing noises of pure delight (nearly sticking the applicator up my nose) then racing to the nearest mirror to spray this confection all over not just my head and falling immediately in love and finally placing Kitchen Witch on the "do not use until all other bottles are empty" rotation. Well that's exactly what happened and months later my bottle is nearly empty so that plan and vow went out the window fast as the sugared pie crust, pumpkin, butter hidden orange zest and vanilla spice bomb has completely taken over my senses and I can't stay away from this scent potion. It's another divine blend to recommend and I will be repurchasing Kitchen Witch in everything I can when the times comes. Argan Oil Hair Rescue formula- I can't have or recommend the detangler without mentioning the argan oil formula MoonaLisa offers because they are a match made in hair heaven and these products have worked absolute magic on my tresses. I have never had such shiny healthy looking hair. The Argan Oil I use after I have brushed out my mane with the aid of the Detangler then I add a dime size amount of argan oil in different scents to the end of my hair. If I have any excess oil on my hands I flip my hair down and place the excess in the back of my head. I run thru a bottle about every 3 months and they are worth every penny. The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) Just as with the detangler I don't notice any one note dominating over another and I get a perfect marriage of spice and herb with the pumpkin and lavender along with hidden smoke, apple and marshmallow. Sublime in so many ways and I reach for this scent not only in fall but throughout the whole year. What can I say, this self confessed pumpkin whore has found her holy grail blend. Lip Butters formula- This was my first time ordering the Lip Butters and if I could stop licking my lips and thinking about eating the sticks I could concentrate and properly catalogue my thoughts. First and foremost the scents are phenomenal and taste like the real thing as promised on the label. For performance, they start out solid then once applied melt on the lips and I haven't had an annoying breakouts with this formula, which is fantastic. If I had to rate them overall, I would say they are the upper middle of better formulas I have tried. They nicely moisturize, but I don't think I would use them for the harsh winter months when I need a balm with moderate repairing properties. For me, they are more suited for light work if that makes sense and I will enjoy these Lip Butters spring and summer and early fall. Onto the scents and er taste compositions! Campfire Tales (S'mores galore! Scootch up to the campfire and get out your roasting stick packed with marshmallows toasted to perfection and sandwiched between buttery graham crackers and creamy milk chocolate) Just as promised this is ooey-gooey marshmallow, realistic chocolate, a swirl of campfire smoke and BUTTERY graham cracker. It tastes like the real thing and yes I want to eat the contents. These are just a pure delight to experience so I will definitely collecting the different flavours with every release. Absinthe Marshmallow Cream (All the green goodness of Absinthe with the fluffy light as feather treat of Marshmallow cream!) My loves all in one delicious confection. Mmm. This one is amazing if you love the herbal bite of absinthe sweetened with marshmallow. Another curious blend and blind purchase that was an instant favourite. I hope Absinthe Marshmallow Cream returns in 2020. Dusting Powder in The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) I hope everyone isn't tired of me gushing about The Rumpkin! because here's another new item for my vanity table all in my favourite pumpkin and lavender scent. I feel I'm reconnecting or channeling a lost portion of myself when I use these products such as dusting powders and if you want to feel fancy grab a canister and shake shake to be swept away or be reminded of a time of luxury and self pampering. I should have purchased dusting powder years ago as this is a marvellous experience that just leaves my skin silky soft and smelling like a delicate brush of spiced pumpkin and lavender. For more personal reasons why I adore this formula, it doesn't cake no how much I use at one time, it keeps unwanted dampness away in the unforgiving heat and helps with annoying rubbing from undergarments. I want to savor this canister as long as possible and only allow an indulgence every Sunday before a full week of night work. I have a feeling here is another collection in the making as I want this powder in all my favourite scents by MoonaLisa. Pumpkin Lavender sugar scrub I was determined with this release to explore as many various skin potions and self pampering items as I could and I have had my eye on a jar of Moona's sugar scrub for over a year. Right on opening a magnificent mixture of spice, fruit and sugared herbs hit my nose and I couldn't wait to use this formula. How very curious to note that Pumpkin Lavender smells like delectable Apple Jacks (or Jax depending on your age) cereal and a bit of butter. I wasn't expecting that, but overall what a wonderful surprise. For this mixture the sugar is fine granulated adding just enough exfoliating effect to tackle stubborn rough heels and elbows. The scent lasts even when I leave the tub and admire how soft my skin is with only 20 minutes with this jar. I will be repurchasing this scrub as well just as soon as I put a dent in this one. The jar is very generous which I greatly appreciate. Another item worth every penny! Sparkle Spray in Campfire Tales Cream (no listed notes but it smells exactly like the lip butter with a touch more campfire smoke and graham cracker) *Appeared in my first order, thank you, MoonaLisa! My dark-hearted little self has few weaknesses that I can list and one of those are ANYTHING that is sparkly and plainly speaking this spray is plain delightful entertainment as with one spritz and my arms are covered in a nostalgic twinkling fragrant happiness. It's impossible to be in a bad mood or in a negative frame of mind with this spray. I want every perfume I own to have a sparkle-filled double. I hope this is a permanent option in the coming collections. I would purchase a gallon size of Aurelia in this spray. Name your price, Moona; I must have more of these sparkle sprays! Absinthe Marshmallow perfume oil bottle (All the green goodness of Absinthe with the fluffy light as feather treat of Marshmallow cream!) This is everything I was hoping it would be. The absinthe is true and has that seductive herbal spice you get with licorice or star anise and the marshmallow is soft and powdery that morphs 6 to 8 hours into a buttery vanilla caramel scent that brings to mind Snow Ice. This could very well be a sister scent of that Yule wonder. Fingers crossed Absinthe Marshmallow returns next fall in the hair detanglers option. I want to waltz about with a halo of this glorious comforting green fragrance all year long. I'm thankful I listened to the reviews on this sweet green gem, another distinct corner of my collection now complete. Crone's Cottage perfume oil sample (Everything you would expect from an elder wisewoman's lair! Smoking embers, delicious cakes and breads baking, hanging bushels of botanicals and herbs.) *One of the many surprises tucked away in this second order, thank you so much, Moona! I believe Crone's Cottage was a new blend for 2019 and fingers and toes crossed it returns in 2020 because plain and simple it's an awesome spice and herb bomb! THIS is what I sorely wanted another extremely popular perfume from another shop to smell like on me and was hoping it would conjure- the vision of a true wisewoman's cottage deep in the shadowed forests. Crone's Cottage is straight out of a fairytale realm with the distinct aroma of realistic cakes and goodies laced with herbs that could be used to curse a first born or tempt a prince or king in the doorway to sign away his soul. Hours later, I get something resembling pepper and vanilla that continues to fascinate and delight me (it smells so good!). I adore this fragrance and will be keeping an eye out for its hopeful return. I want Crone's Cottage in a detangler, argan oil and if I start saving now, a few bath products and dusting powder. Witchery soap bar (Sultry ambers, woods and magic!) *Thank you so much Moona! You are the best💜 I'm using the "Pick Your Poison" sticker on my name badge at work🎃 The above sad attempts don't do this soap justice. It's stunning artistry with the marbling and colour shifts and yes, I'm talking about a soap bar. This is a lost art, it really is and I can't get over how pretty Witchery is in presentation and fragrance. I tried to capture the glitter and dried little lavender buds and rose petals embedded on top, but it looks only muddled in a photograph (one of these days I'll take a decent picture). Take it from me Witchery is something to display and show off. It also dimly glows in the dark; did I mention that? YES, this soap flipping GLOWS with some ghostly magic in the pitch dark and this is a first for me. I didn't even know that was possible! The scent is exactly as promised being a sultry rich amber (and possibly a little unlisted dill?) Ultra-nifty effects and presentation aside, I'm thrilled to report my finicky skin plays nice with Moona's soap. I missed out of Sea Witch this last round, that will not be happening again Halloween 2020 (The Rumpkin! I'm coming for yooou!) MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean One Note at a Time: A trove of Nui Cobalt Designs blends and my first purchase from Ajevie1/26/2020
Nui Cobalt Designs and Ajevie Reviews composed in October and November 2019 It's finally that most wonderful time of the year when I step out in style in everything pumpkin, moon named or vampire and werewolf inspired and here I present to you a few thoughts on a fine selection of elegant and delectable long-lasting blends I have been wearing to welcome in my favourite season right. *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. One Note at a Time: Silver Bullet (A swift banishment blend to dispel anger, frustration, and any feral lunacy that muddles the mind. Wolf musk accord with wild white currant, chilled clary sage, dried lavender, lime leaves, and a subtle hint of almond bark infused with homegrown hyssop, lemon verbena, and white peppercorn. Wear this soothing potion in stressful situations or when you feel the stirrings of the savage beast within.) I may not be able to detect any wolf musk in Silver Bullet, but I sure can smell and deeply inhale the garden-fresh energized lemon verbena which is front and center on the opening and melds so perfectly with the supporting listed notes creating the unmistakable scent of "metal under cold moonlight or gentle shimmery water at night" when I allow my imagination to take wing. A very aptly named creation and this is a fragrance for a moon child or water sign. I adore this chilled herbal citrus blend and would love a full bottle eventually. For longevity, Silver Bullet lasts around 9 to 10 hours and the scent stays close becoming one of those perfect sleep scent potions or one to grab for some meditative night wandering. Blood Curse (A protection blend that is not to be trifled with. Sicilian figs, oak-aged Bordeaux, Tunisian incense, blackcurrant preserves, Louisiana pralines, tart dried cherry, a spritz of red grapefruit and smooth sanguine musk. Wear to send any jinx or malefaction back to where it came from. It's been known to bring swift and severe punishment to those of ill intent.) With a name like Blood Curse and the above description, this was one vial I couldn't wait to add to my collection and wow it doesn't disappoint. On application, this is sweet and oaky cherry wine that then morphs slowly to a tart grapefruit deepened by beautiful smoky incense which lasts hours and surprisingly it is all extremely wearable in the professional setting. Here is another blend that stays close and I feel I have this "aura" around me or have a glowing blood-red jewel at my throat. Blood Curse is a must try if you love realistic fruit blends that carry a bit of unique mystique to them. Au Bal Masqué (The sheer, spectral scent of elegant ghosts waltzing through the haunted halls of an abandoned palace. Nepalese virgin cashmere, cotton flower, vanilla spun sugar, labdanum, and the wafting memory of white funeral lilies. Wear this scent to attract benevolent spirits and to honor the beloved dead.) I must admit when this vial arrived, "ghost laundry" which was pretty and eerie (but a tad out of my comfort zone) immediately came to mind however a week later Au Bal Masqué morphed into a cotton candy/candy floss/spun sugar perfume I can pull off and wear! It's lovely with a realistic lily in the background with a sheer sweetened non-foody wistful vanilla on top that I recognize from Starlight & Spider Silk and the unique cotton flower from Little Brown Rabbit. It's almost cold and ethereal smelling with a hint of powderiness that adds to the scent story of a haunted masked ball scene. The only lilies I'm familiar with are Easter Lilies so I asked a garden obsessed coworker what she thought and she told me I smelled like Stargazer Lilies with a realistic slight fruitiness to this blend I didn't notice until she pointed it out. Nearly 12 hours later this morphs to warm spun sugar (and a touch of hidden greenery) which is somehow not childish nor cloying smelling and I get a dainty music box playing a haunting melody when I let my mind wander or something to be found in the ghostly court of Marie Antoinette. Entombed (An Autumnal sleeping spell to rival our acclaimed Tryptophan. Cemetary stones enshrouded in mist, wild English lavender, rain, and freshly turned earth. Wear this scent before going to bed for restorative rest and pleasant dreams.) I've commented before about how much I love this shop's lavender and Entombed is another oil to recommend for those searching for the "perfect lavender" perfume. The herb is smooth and inviting and as you bring your nose closer the stone and mist appears taking you away to an abandoned scenic countryside you don't want to leave and it gets even better when a hidden petrichor note manifests slowly like a building thunderstorm over the scene. When it comes to the choice between Tryptophan and Entombed, it's a tie for me. I enjoy both for different reasons. In both, I get an unlisted caramel scent while with Entombed the mysterious woody mint-like note that amps on me in Tryptophan is replaced with a wet earth mixture. Honestly, it doesn't matter which I choose because both give the most important gift which is a fully restorative sleep with pleasant dreams. Exhumed (An earthy manifestation blend for bringing your wishes into material reality. Fig trees, moss-covered mahogany, black patchouli infused with High John the Conqueror root, smoked vetiver, lichen and stone. Wear to attract abundance or anoint green candles in rituals for wealth.) This is wild, dirty and masculine with a genteel side and blame what I'm currently reading, but I can't help thinking Exhumed as a lordly fragrance or the scent of a master of his manor. For note identification, I don't get any fig on application, but I do get warm sensual mahogany with patchouli that shifts to a smoky moss and the drydown is a combination of stone, wood and smoke. As Exhumed is aging, there may also be a drop of sandalwood that peeks through after an hour. Although I mentioned this oil being "dirty", it is strangely "clean" smelling at the same time without resembling soap. It's all-around refined with a feral side and I want to hand this out on the corner to all single men. Exsanguinated (A vampiric fragrance for seduction and allure. Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smouldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses. Wear when in pursuit of prey or add to love-drawing baths to amplify their power.) Exsanguinated is exactly as promised on the tin, it's smoky, boozy, dark and dangerously seductive and I feel like I'm channelling Theda Bara in all her prowling magnetic glory when I don it. This is the fragrance of a pale claw-like hand reaching out in the dark to caress a lover (or new victim) and the drydown resembles a flickering black and white screen, I can't fully explain it, but Exsanguinated is one nifty perfume that I can't recommend enough to those who seek some darkness and confidence. Longevity is about 12 hours for me and others have commented I smell like smouldering roses, mahogany and dragon's blood. Exorcised (A bracing purification blend to cleanse yourself and your space. Snow-covered spruce, rock moss, chilled Earl Grey and pale frankincense. Anoint your pulse points to banish negativity or add a few drops to an oil diffuser to cleanse and protect your home.) With every vial from this amazing shop, I learn something new about myself and my skin chemistry and with Exorcised I have learned I amp moss and sweet resins while spruce fades within seconds and sadly the Earl Grey turns to an overly clean combination that resembles my experience with Giulia. Out of all the vials this round, Exorcised faded the quickest, but I must say it is a lovely oil to add to the diffuser. I'm curious what others' impressions are of this blend. On the right skin chemistry, I bet this would be incredible. Oh well, can't win them all (and my pocketbook sighs in relief). Drunk Pumpkin (A boozy scent to honor the spirits and celebrate the change of seasons. An oversized pumpkin punchbowl filled with hot apple cider, Caribbean dark rum, Tennessee whiskey, cinnamon sticks, ginger root and a twist of lemon. Wear when navigating life's big changes, and to summon help from beyond the Veil.) And now it is time for this self-confessed Pumpkin Whore to go wild. Oooh, Drunk Pumpkin take me away! That realistic spiked apple cider note is the star of this perfume and the creamy pumpkin with a hint of maple puts this oil on the top tier for favourite fragrances this year. I must admit, apple is a hard sell for me and I'm a bit picky, but Drunk Pumpkin has seriously impressed me and now I'm regretting not grabbing Cauldron Cider or not having anywhere fun to wear this I could crash and start dancing on the tables (it is the season of mischief and a bit of debauchery after all). Baby Pumpkin (A scent to inspire sweetness and affection. Homemade maple pumpkin bread with Autumn harvest honey, spiced with nutmeg and clove, drizzled with salted caramel, and dotted with Turkish apricot. Wear when you're in the mood for gentle hugs, earnest compliments, and warm appreciation.) Baby Pumpkin morphs and shifts differently on my skin versus hair and at the end of the night, I get warm golden honey, caramel, nutmeg, a hidden sandalwood note and maple on my skin and sweet candied apricot, maple and pumpkin in my hair that all accompany me home. I like this and have worn this oil quite a bit to work, but I'm not sure if I need a bottle this year (on the long dry down it reminds me of MoonaLisa's Cauldron Cakes which I ordered a bottle of at the last release). Mmm, Baby Pumpkin is so good though. I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey accords. Why does everything from this collection have to smell so amazing?! Wicked Pumpkin (A sexy potion that's sure to make you the belle of any masquerade ball. Sandalwood musk and dark patchouli with maple sugar, peach skin, cardamom, and freshly baked pumpkin pie. Wear to awaken your inner temptress and ensnare the object of your desire.) In my hair Wicked Pumpkin lives up to its name and I smell like one tasty and alluring dish with spiced fruits, sandalwood, pumpkin, patchouli and inviting maple sugar, but alas my skin chemistry has found a new note to torment me with and it is peach of all things which morphs to full-on cat urine on my skin. I had suspected peach was a death note for myself quite a while and Wicked Pumpkin just confirmed it and I'm now searching for a scent locket. In the meantime into unscented whipped soap Wicked Pumpkin goes so I can lavish my locks and turn some heads when the wind blows and howls this season. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Pumpkin Cupcake (A comforting scent to ease your mind and soothe your nerves. Whipped white pumpkin between layers of angel food cake, marshmallow frosting, and a light dusting of allspice. Wear in times of stress to keep a level head and a positive attitude.) I haven't had the pleasure to smell angel food cake since my Baba passed away and I can tell you Pumpkin Cupcake is an old fashioned fluffy angel food cake with added buttery allspice pumpkin frosting and maybe even a drop of coconut and sandalwood? Interestingly enough I don't get any marshmallow on my skin and I wouldn't call Pumpkin Cupcake a true gourmand, it's more of a quasi-blend that still satisfies those with a sweet tooth or anyone who has been desiring a bit of nostalgia. Flaming Pumpkin (A powerful prosperity blend to quickly draw abundant wealth and success. Two types of patchouli, fresh ginger root, woodsmoke, burnt brown sugar, and Jarrahdale pumpkin pureed with nutmeg and a spritz of blood orange. Anoint green or gold candles to add oomph to your money spells, or wear when you're ready to ask for that raise.) Flaming Pumpkin is probably the closest I'll get to smelling like a pile of beautiful burning maple leaves and mashed pumpkin with nutmeg in the forest (I get unlisted warm sandalwood in this blend and the drydown is earthy and relaxing). This one is also super comforting and great for sleep or puttering around the house. In regards to longevity, Flaming Pumpkin clocks in at 12 hours on my skin and 20 hours in my curls. I don't get any aggressive ginger or immediate scent of blood orange. Another keeper and unique pumpkin blend for my collection. Ginger Cat (A playful blend to banish malaise, lift your spirits, and ignite vitality. Crystallized ginger and raisins baked into warm pumpkin bread with caramel drizzle, candied orange peel, homemade apricot jam and the subtlest sprinkle of cardamom. Wear this cozy perfume when you need to shake off the doldrums and brighten your mood.) Ginger Cat brings to mind a secret soft orange cookie recipe I make every year that was my great-grandmother's and I can't stop huffing my wrists when it is applied. On me, the sweetened orange peel with apricot amps and I don't get any thick spiced bread or pumpkin. This is an energizing and invigorating mashup of notes and this indeed brightens my mood and feels cosy all at the same time. For longevity, Ginger Cat disappears relatively quickly on me, but I can still get very faint traces of it at 5 to 6 hours in the crooks of my arms. I can see why this is a seasonal favourite. Black Cat (A traditional folk magic blend for fast luck and abundant blessing. Darkly sweet pipe tobacco, blackcurrant, and chai spices amid the swirling smoke of sacred nag champa and myrrh. Wear this dusky potion to invoke protection and great fortune.) Black Cat is slightly smoky fruit laced with incense and I keep picking up something reminding me of brewed spiced berry tea. It's lovely and indeed mysterious and magnetic like a black cat. This would be amazing in a candle or shampoo. I wish it lasted longer on my skin. Gate of Autumn (The air turns electric as daylight hours wane toward the tipping-point of the year. This evocative blend is a paean to the Autumnal Equinox, a time of transformation. It evokes the bountiful blessings of the season, attracting prosperity, fulfilment, and great fortune. Woodland notes of wild fig, ancient oak, scarlet maple leaves and viscous dark resin.) Oh, Gate of Autumn has that incredibly realistic maple leaves accord that I fell for hard in Flaming Pumpkin and Liv. However, with this oil more resins come forward and I recognize palo santo under patchouli and the maple leaves. I wore Gate of Autumn for the last full moon and this is a lovely blend for meditative wanderings late at night. It's not heavy and stays close to the skin. Final observation to mention, I also think my chemistry devours fig and amps the maple with palo santo in Gate of Autumn. The Veil is Thin (A potion for seances, mediumship, and communing with the ancestors. Chilled opalescent musk entwined with sheer vanilla orchid, white heliotrope, and pale citrus infused with mugwort, borage, and blue yarrow. Wear this diaphanous scent to walk between the worlds and speak with the spirits. Anoint white or purple candles to heighten psychic sensitivity.) The above is dead on with the "sheer" description as The Veil is Thin is another aptly named creation. This smells gauzy and wistful without being overpowering with the citrus and heliotrope. It's nicely balanced and can be called "your skin but better" type of fragrance. I will be wearing The Veil is Thin when I attend various supernatural-themed events this season. I must also note, Nui Cobalt Designs showcases vanilla wonderfully and my chemistry and nose both approve. Crown of Hecate 2018 (Enchanted on the day of the Solar Eclipse in the 21st degree of Cancer, this blend evokes the ancient mysteries of the Sacred Feminine in her dark aspect. Moonflower and myrrh over almond milk tea, shining white amber, and a pillow of sheer vanilla. Wear this potent blend to invoke the Goddess and to inspire Her divinity within you. It is particularly supportive of people in crisis, survivors of abuse, and defenders of socio-economic equity.) I get this lovely warm buttery glow that smells like a bit of almonds, floral and something like smooth liquid silk with this blend and I'm falling for these "your skin but better" creations from Nui Cobalt Designs (they stay close, but feel incredibly elegant and personal). As Crown of Hecate (2018) dries, gorgeous vanilla amber and powder from the moonflower and myrrh appears and I need more recommendations please for another perfume by Nui Cobalt Designs with amber with vanilla. I want.them.all! Starlight & Spider Silk (Swift and skillful, her instinct's artistry glimmers with deadly precision. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans.) I don't know how Forest did it, but this is the scent of clear gossamer swaying in the breeze and morning dewdrops with elegant vanilla. On me, there is something nearly floral and creamy about Starlight & Spider Silk (don't you love all of these poetic and perfectly matched names?) and I do believe this perfume will be my next purchase. I don't have anything to compare this oil to currently in my vast collection. Wow, this is stunning and I can't help but think of waltzing spirits and one song in particular when I have Starlight & Spider Silk dabbed all over. I can expect 12 hours of sophisticated perfection with this perfume and couldn't have asked for more. In addition to elegant perfume blends that I love to accompany me to the workplace setting and events, Nui Cobalt Designs offers a wide assortment of fragrant sundries and you know I just had to indulge and start collecting. Waipio Valley Soy Candle (The Valley of the Kings is adorned with towering waterfalls, a crescent black sand beach, and a palpable primal energy. This sacred space has survived two tsunamis without a single casualty. Dark myrrh and vetiver, sand-smoothed teak wood, kava kava, rain-drenched ti leaves, and a subtle touch of dry coconut husk. Burn this mysterious candle to wrap yourself in fiercely loving protection, ward off malicious energy and restore a sense of security.) Waipio Valley is a creamy fresh smell with a calming mysterious woody aroma I can't place, but I enjoy and would repurchase. This candle has definitely strengthened in terms of throw as I can detect it as I'm typing at the Kitchen table and I just adore the cosy atmosphere it is creating. I'm not usually a "clean and fresh" sort of collector, but I would get a vial of Waipio Valley to wear and repurchase this candle (Nui Cobalt Designs is changing my mind about certain scent profiles). Beltane Fires Bath Spell (A sensual bathing potion to celebrate the Pagan sabbat of fertility, pleasure, and earthly delights. Smoldering maple wood and birch bark, honeycakes with toasted almond and nectarine, piquant ginger and the faintest trace of understated patchouli.) Ingredients: Epsom salt, iodized salt, red Alea salt, sodium bicarbonate, corn starch, organic ginger root powder, fragrance. 1.5 oz mini jar. After falling hard for Nui Cobalt's honey and smoky maple wood accords I knew I NEEDED this bath spell in my collection and first impressions the scent upon opening the jar is divine, being sweet and fruity with just a hint of wood smoke. Needless to say after that brief session of making embarrassing noises while sniffing the jar, I raced off to the bathtub with Beltane Fires and the honey fruit scent wafted gently around my bathroom for as long as it took me to run the hot water. In comparing this formula to other bath treats I've tried, the scent is delicate and doesn't cling to my skin long, however, the ingredients are very skin loving and I could definitely notice my arms were less tight and it worked wonderfully on my painful muscles and joints. Saying all that, I do have to address that the jar is TINY, I guess I didn't realize what 1.5oz meant and was a bit shocked at the size of this adorable glass jar (complete for a darling bow when it arrived); luckily a sprinkle or two is all I need so even after a few months the mini container is half full and in the end, I would repurchase Beltane Fires in the bath spell and perfume format. Hex Breaker Bath Spell (Banish malefaction and ill will with this powerful purification ritual. Lemon, angelica, eucalyptus, dill, and sage are brightened by blackberry and grounded in dark patchouli, pipe tobacco, and vetiver.) Ingredients: Epsom salt, Kosher salt, Hawaiian black lava salt, sodium bicarbonate, dill weed, angelica powder, fragrance. 4.5 inch corked vial (12 cm) roughly 1.8 oz weight *a free gift I found nestled in with my order, thank you so much, Nui Cobalt Designs! I know it shouldn't matter and it sounds silly, but I love this vial bottle! It's shaped as a test tube and even has a cork topper and I feel like I'm about to conduct some kind of naughty forbidden experiment when I uncork and sprinkle the black, gray and white granules into the running bath. The scent of intoxicating eucalyptus hits me nose first along with light lemon and that fragrance turns almost recognizable as peppermint when it hits the water. It's soothing and calming plus loves my skin and again it shouldn't matter, but it's entertaining to shake and combine the colours in the vial. It almost looks like exotic sand. Yes, I'm easily amused and yes, I would purchase this for myself or a friend. Hex Breaker is a conversation starter from the presentation to the unique fragrance. Here's another collection of incredible scent art that only leads me deeper into the indie rabbit hole and ultimately introduced me to a new turn in the warren tunnels (the opportunity to purchase decants from across the indie realm). *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. Exsanguinated (A vampiric fragrance for seduction and allure. Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smouldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses. Wear when in pursuit of prey or add to love-drawing baths to amplify their power.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Please allow this smoky, boozy, dark and dangerously seductive number to take another bow and feel free to come closer as this is truly the scent of gothic beauty and even holds the ability to take my dreams to some unexpected vivid places. I can't recommend Exsanguinated enough for those who seek some darkness and confidence. *Full bottle purchased Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with soft vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. Ah! It's a Pre-Raphaelite painting in a bottle. Just magnificent! Brava! Scythe of Saturn (Crafted under the auspices of Saturn's direct station in his domicile of Capricorn, this sacred oil invokes the virtues of patience, diligence, maturity, responsibility, and wisdom. Metal and myrrh, ancient oak and blue spruce, bay laurel and Earl Grey. Wear when you need the inner strength and self-discipline to cut away what no longer serves you.) *this sample arrived with my purchased bottle of Exsanguinated In the vial, Scythe of Saturn is an enchanting combination of realistic spruce and myrrh that brings to mind a dark evergreen forest and shifting bitter winds. When applied though, the spruce disappears almost immediately and I'm greeted by a cosy and creamy meditative blending of myrrh and realistic smelling tea that plays nice with my chemistry (LOVE Nui Cobalt's tea blends) along with a hint of metal at the base. Absolutely another keeper. Pele's Fire (An ode to the primordial volcano goddess who creates as she destroys. Sacred ʻōhelo berry, torch ginger, ʻōhiʻa flower, lehua honey, skin musk, and woodsmoke.) Mark this blending down for a list of unfamiliar notes that creates one fiery sweet smokey gem I could huff all night. My inner shimmery amber dragon is pleased with the luscious woodsmoked honey that amps and stays for 10+ hours. The mysterious berry and warm citrus-like ginger are present dancing in the background, but Pele's Fire belongs to the exotic flames entwined with sweetness from the honey my skin attaches to. Here's another unique stunner in my vast collection and one my inner dragon wishes to hoard away next year. Ghost Cat (A fuzzy phantasm to guide and guard you as you pierce the Veil. Cashmere, white amber, and ethereal ivory musk with blushing peony and pink peppercorn toe beans. Wear this spectral scent to call upon the aid of friendly spirits. Anoint white or lavender candles in rituals of divination or mediumship.) Nui Cobalt Designs has one fantastic way with romantic ambers and Ghost Cat is another scent potion that beautifully showcases this shop's handling of sophistication and bringing to our noses something that smells insanely expensive while at the same time making this scent personal as it hugs the skin. I don't know how Forest does it, but here is another perfume that fits right into the office setting and could set off an elegant designer gown. I want to call Ghost Cat another "clean floral", however, it's so much more than that. On me, I get the bright peony that morphs slowly into this soft powdery amber with a hint of pepper. It's so intriguing and fancy smelling. Ghost Cat has found a place next to Starlight & Spider Silk, Au Bal Masqué, Love and Mourning Veil on my vanity. Manta Ray (Fathomless blue grace under moonlit waves. Iced blueberry tea, cold salt water, and bubbles glistening through ambergris accord. Wear this dark aquatic scent to connect with your deep intuitive voice. It is particularly helpful during dreamwork and divination.) In the vial I get tropical Bubblicious bubblegum I remember chomping down on at football games in high school but holy crow does this beauty morph on my skin and become fizzy/bubble saltwater with realistic blueberry (this shop's blueberry accord is perfect) and I'm in love. Ooh, you know what this reminds me of? Sixteen92's Habanera only with blueberry and salt. There is a hidden floral note drifting slowly to the midground and I definitely recognize the blueberry from Grey Cat in Manta Ray. An hour later a surprise wisp of smoke or ashes slowly rises catching my full attention and my applause. Well marking down another bottle to grab for next summer. This blueberry fancy water fragrance needs to come home to me. First Harvest: Grain (Acres full of sunlight, tall and bountiful, a golden expanse of promise. The earthy scent of oatstraw and hay drying in the late-summer fields. Wear this scent to attract abundance and manifest wealth. Anoint copper pennies and bury to the East of your home to sow the seeds of prosperity.) Exactly as it says on the tin! I get sunwarmed hay and straw, the shifting colours of golds and brown you see in country fields. It even has that magical "buttery" scent present you get with oatstraw (and now Sting's Fields of Gold is playing in my head on repeat). First Harvest: Grain makes me homesick and I found another vial to treasure. For those curious, this is a fabulous oil to layer to create some comforting depth to different perfumes. Favorite Sweater (The perfect balance of cool and cozy. White oak and blonde teakwood, copal resin, crushed coriander, lamb's wool accord, a touch of creamy chai, and a spritz of green mandarin. Wear when you need comfort and a sense of security.) I know this oil is listed under the Autumn collection, but Favorite Sweater takes me immediately to winter and I'm wearing a big fuzzy pale green sweater by a roaring fire. To be honest, it reminds me so much of a beloved pale green soft sweater I wore until it fell apart, haha, so this scent potion is aptly named. I know nutmeg is not listed, but I swear I smell something very similar to nutmeg in this, perhaps it is the coriander or chai? I know where Favorite Sweater is going in my box and I hope this scent returns next year. The last batch I'm about to ramble about came from Ajevie and was my first (but certainly not last) purchase from them. Excellent customer service practices to be found on this helpful site and I'm very pleased with the sizes of the "slinks" and "slonks" (terms of measurement of the vials and little screw top bottles they sell) I purchased as I have plenty of oils to test in each vial and ampule. I also have to mention the professional-looking labels that have the name of the perfume in an eye-catching font and the list of the description of notes attached on the slinks (you know that all took time to do and I greatly appreciate the extra touches). Bad Moon Rising (A gentle protection blend to carry your through the tough times. Wild violets, Adirondack blueberries, star anise, blackcurrants preserved in maple sugar with clove and a touch of almond. Wear during inauspicious astrological events or bouts of plain "bad luck." It has a talent for steering the winds of fortune in a more helpful direction.) I always feel like I'm playing Russian Roulette when I dab on anything with violets listed, but I'm happy to report Bad Moon Rising is another surprise winner for me! This blend opens with my ultimate note weakness being star anise and it is brilliantly swirled with realistic blueberries then violets softly waltz through creating a spicy fruit powdery-floral collage that all makes me huff my wrists with no headaches or any nausea to jot down. Another spin on the indie realm chamber ending in unexpected smiles and now I'm eyeing Olympe de Gouges hard for more lovely violets to collect from this charming shop's scent library. Appalachian Autumn (An homage to the Nature Spirits. Deer musk accord, campfire smoke, birch trees, angelica, ripe pears and rain. Wear to align your energy with that of the wilderness to invoke its many blessings. It's particularly soothing and supportive through the changing of the seasons.) I truly hoped this oil would make me burst into a severely off key rendition of John Denver's classic "Take Me Home, Country Roads" but sadly Appalachian Autumn was my least favourite out of this batch. On me, it resembles masculine soap and expensive smelling cologne. I don't get any highly anticipated pears, smoke or any atmospheric element on my skin. Perhaps it would fare better in my curls or in a whipped soap? I knew my wonky skin chemistry would get me sooner or later with one of these blends. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Mourning Veil (Somber elegance with a touch of mystery. Melancholy layers of black vanilla bean, white sandalwood, petrichor, tear-stained taffeta, suede gloves and a silk-lined mahogany coffin. Wear this gothic bouquet to soothe a weary heart and ease sadness. Add a drop or two to the bath when you need to release negative feelings and restore emotional equilibrium.) This is strangely beautiful and one hard to put down fragrance once a surprise element appears that creates one flipping gorgeous gothic scene complete with a gauzy black veil. I said it before and I'll say it again, I don't know how Forest does it. I never knew how much I adore sandalwood until I tried Nui Cobalt and I'm officially a collector of that note now. I chose wisely with picking up Mourning Veil despite my fears of certain notes listed, the suede note is soft on me as well as the mahogany (what wonderful scent sorcery is this?). Here's another keeper and one that tells one lovely creepy scent story. Pale As Death (Wan and bloodless phantoms move forlorn among the headstones. Funeral lilies, datura accord, luna moths on cotton flowers, and white clover along a graveyard path. Wear this conciliatory potion for support in times of sadness. It is particularly helpful through the process of grieving.) Au Bal Masqué, is that you? This fragrance smells so similar on me and yet more of the cotton flower amps, making me think of ghost laundry. The distinct clover is there hiding in the background and I wish it came more forward and I don't get the gothic bouquet I was hoping for. Still, Pale As Death is a nice sister scent of Au Bal Masqué and I will use what is in the vial while dreaming of owning a full bottle of the blend that smells it belongs in the ghostly court of Marie Antoinette. Trembling Aspen (Among the first trees to change color, it exchanges subdued green for a bright, buttery yellow that complements the afternoon light. But perhaps its most distinguishing feature is the rapid, fluttering movement of its leaves. Flat leaf stalks give the Trembling Aspen's foliage a unique quiver in the breeze, seeming to sparkle in the long shadows of September. Sunflower petals, delicate strands of saffron, crystallized ginger, and candied kumquat. Wear this scintillating scent to evoke courage and confidence.) Trembling Aspen was a last-minute addition to my basket and wow am I pleased with this blend! As much as I love Bad Moon Rising, Trembling Aspen takes the coveted spot for number one pick out of this batch from Ajevie. I'm still training my nose so I can't identify the saffron, however, I do get sunflower petals rubbed between my hands, ginger and candied fruit that I'm guessing is the kumquat. There may also be some unlisted oakstraw in this as I detect that mysterious "buttery" quality in this that can be found in the fields late summer and First Harvest: Grain. The description of Trembling Aspen is dead-on as this smells like a golden tree in autumn. Instant love and recommendation. Nui Cobalt Designs and Ajevie The Gentlemen of Derbyshire Hair Oil by Libertine Bath Haus .1oz glass bottle. (Scent notes: Tobacco leaf, leather, regal clove, and warm oakwood.) Ingredients: Avocado oil, Argan oil, meadow foam seed oil, jojoba, sweet almond, apricot kernel seed oil, grapeseed, fragrance, Vit E We've had the pleasure to get well acquainted with inspired fragrances of the main characters of Pride and Prejudice now let us get to know the scents about the complex love interests of several sisters of Bennet, Bingley and surrounding county households. First up is Libertine Bath Haus's The Gentlemen of Derbyshire and on application, this is a slightly smoky and somehow smooth tobacco and clove dominant blend in my curls with sweet leather lingering in the background. Ah! There is nothing like the rich elegant scent of tobacco in various forms and The Gentlemen of Derbyshire nicely showcases that note. In terms of the longevity of the aroma of fresh tobacco, warm clove and leather, it is sadly short-lived (nearly an hour and a half), however, the shine that follows from a small application of this oil is not. I'm already familiar with this shop's hair care product formula and for me, it can be a touch drying if I use it right after washing my hair with say whipped soap so I save it and only use a few drops at a time when the natural oils begin to build up too much (my hair type is a mixture of dry and oily). It seems to soak up the grease and adds an incredibly healthy shine to my waist-length locks. Another keeper! Truth Universally Acknowledged EDP by Deconstructing Eden. 5ml bottle (Scent notes: Rosewood and mahogany bookshelves, Russian leather chairs, a simple eau de cologne of English lavender, Bergamot, and fougere accord, a glass of cognac, a river of scotch, and tobacco absolute.) It's the infamous opening to Pride and Prejudice: "It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a single man in possession of a good fortune, must be in want of a wife." and here we have an...how do I put this as ladylike as possible? An extremely seductive interpretation of the above quote and one that materializes a debonair scent character right from the bottle you would never want to leave if you met him in real life. This is a cultured fragrance with a lavender forward opening on me and in the bottle is a rich leather, bergamot and booze heavy blend. I could happily sniff the bottle all day and can't stop spritzing myself to get that burst of herbal spice with the lavender, antique rosewood and the smoky tobacco absolute that appears after a few moments. Curiously after about 10 minutes, Truth Universally Acknowledged sweetens on my skin becoming almost floral (with a backing of leather and tobacco) so if anyone was wondering this perfume is unexpectedly unisex and overall extremely wearable (lavender is so wonderfully versatile). Longevity overall varies for me, about 10 hours on my skin and much longer in my hair and on my clothes. It was no surprise Truth Universally Acknowledged was one of my top picks from the A Winter's Ball (Pride, Prejudice & Perfume) collection; I can't recommend this perfume enough. Sharing Notes of Interest and surrounding mysteries: Another entertaining mystery stemming from the pages of Pride & Prejudice is: Who was the inspiration of Mr. Fitzwilliam Darcy? Every year many theories to names are introduced as suspects, my personal favourite possible personality is an Irish politician and Judge named Thomas Lefroy. It may have been a short-lived flirtation (one of swirling holiday balls and dances in December 1795) between Austen and Lefroy and not exactly as deep a romantic connection such as Elizabeth and Mr. Darcy shared in the end but, you know what they say, you never forget your first attraction and there is always truth in everything (and letters do still survive between Jane Austen and her sister Cassandra that mention Lefroy in a puzzling light). So it is quite possible that the complex character we all have come to love through the generations could have very well been based on Thomas Lefroy (I hate speculation but it is sure fun to debate and think about, don't you agree?) *In 2007, a creative adaptation of this theory was brought to the silver screen called Becoming Jane and I fully intend to watch this film as soon as time permits (how did I miss this film?!). There is also a Semi-Biography listed Becoming Jane Austen by Hunter Spence that I wish to pick up for next year's December Austen themed reading in honour of Miss Austen's birthday (December 16th). If perhaps Mr Darcy was based on an Irish politician and Judge, were George Wickham, William Collins or Charles Bingley based on anyone Austen knew? Although some speculate it was Austen's own brother, Henry Thomas Austen, who served as unfortunate inspiration (he was a militia officer and clergyman) and very well possibly was turned into Mr William Collins in the pages; I love the other idea of Shakespeare's Proteus and Valentine from The Two Gentlemen of Verona being used for certain plot points in the story. There are many similarities between the awkward and tumultuous brotherly relationship between the characters and it seems throughout history there are tales of men brought up as brothers then they choose different paths with one later returning bent on destroying the other. Regarding Charles Bingley, there doesn't seem to be any clear figure identified either, he is just the contrast to Darcy with his open friendliness and charm wherein Mr. Darcy, he is a complex personality that in the end you can't help but fall for and proves the adage "Don't judge a book by its cover" plus is a central theme in Pride and Prejudice. In the end, it is known that Austen used many different past literary pieces for ideas for her storylines and characters in her novels, so the true identity of George Wickham, William Collins or Charles Bingley are all collective entertaining mysteries and discussion subjects forever attached to the pages of this novel of first impressions and manners. And without further ado, Lizzy’s Fine Dark Eyes Perfume Oil by Sucreabeille. 5ml bottle. (Scent notes: Orchids and chamomile blend with lavender, ylang ylang and hyssop. Peach blossom, sandalwood, and sparkling aldehyde bring lift and depth.) On opening, the lavender is immediately apparent and it is sweetened with the peach, hyssop and ylang ylang creating an understated playful elegance that is then amplified with the sparkling aldehyde which indeed brings this blend "lift and depth". The true magic in this oil occurs an hour later when this lovely vintage quality takes hold with the lingering dry lavender along with the grounding creamy sandalwood and at that point, I'm smitten by this "beautiful expression of dark eyes" and can't stop sneaking sniffs when no one at my work setting is looking but then again let them look. Despite this fragrance being inspired by Miss Elizabeth Bennet's dark eyes, this fragrance is delightfully light and magnetic at the same time. For longevity, this perfume lasts 6 hours on my skin and considerably more (about 13 hours) when placed in my curls and my locks hold onto the sweetened bubbly aldehydes longer. A wonderful introduction to the scent artistry to be found in this collection. Two Dances with Darcy Perfume Oil by Poesie Perfume . 5ml bottle. (Scent notes: a splash of her lavender water, a hint of his Regency cologne and pipe tobacco, the polished dance floor, flushed skin, and is that...the perfect pear?) And now we move onto the ballroom floor and take a turn with Two Dances with Darcy that on application lavender appears along with a dribble of pear juice and the realistic pipe tobacco that now amplifies on my skin completely sweeping me away to a compelling scent story I don't want to leave. There is something about the magical marriage of lavender and pipe tobacco that I can't resist in any blend and in Two Dances with Darcy, these notes entwine beautifully and yet are somehow improved with the addition of pear (and a possible hidden airy vanilla?). The polished floor is evident on the dry down which holds a nostalgic quality for myself as I think back on ballet lessons and later one particular locale filled with entertaining thumping music as we whirled around the wooden rink while lights flashed in time to catchy tunes. In terms of this blend conveying the utter captivating dance of emotions from this crucial scene between Lizzy and Mr. Darcy, this oil bottles that moment wonderfully. On me, Two Dances with Darcy leans more feminine with the lavender, pear and hidden vanilla I keep getting wafts of, the tobacco and cologne fades into the background giving way to the familiar comforting herb and fruit at first then becomes more noticeable as hours later go by adding some interesting warm supporting contrast. For longevity, Two Dances with Darcy lasts around 4 to 5 hours and stays close to enjoy and sweep me away to one of my favourite scenes in a treasured novel. *The A Winter's Ball (Pride, Prejudice & Perfume) collection is currently available for purchase Sharing Notes of Interest: Did you know that First Impressions was the original title of Pride and Prejudice? At age 21, Miss Jane Austen's father submitted her manuscript to a publisher but it was rejected for various reasons and wasn't resubmitted for consideration until 14 years later after Austen's success with Sense and Sensibility. She also worried her novel too frivolous writing “The work is rather too light, and bright, and sparkling...It wants shade; it wants to be stretched out here and there with a long chapter of sense, if it could be had.” I don't know about anyone else, but I think she succeeded on all levels and showed the world her genius with wit, romantic flair and a book like a fine box of sweets you can't put down and something one must experience. Speaking of publishing, it is a sad little known fact that Jane Austen never submitted her works with her name, she only signed them "By a Lady" or in the case of Pride and Prejudice- “by the author of Sense and Sensibility.” Her identity was revealed to the public by her brother only after her death. I would be remiss to not share a darker note of interest that in the mysterious death of Miss Austen which to this day is still being debated upon. On July 18 1817, Austen passed away at the age of 41 (only 4 years after the publication of her masterwork, Pride and Prejudice). Was she poisoned by arsenic, whether by the common practice of adding the caustic heavy metal to prescribed and easily purchased medicines (or simply drinking water supplies or wearing coloured fabrics) in 19th-century England or was it done with malicious purpose by someone she trusted? Did she succumb to an underlying condition or undiagnosed chronic disease (Addison's disease)? We may never know the whole story, all we do that is a brilliant author and shining pen was silenced that day and her works have caused a sensation of fandom and scent inspiration and beauty inspiration (such as the A Winter's Ball collection). It's a shame this authoress (like so many other writers) will never know the impact their words have on the public and each new generation. For further reading, I recommend: The Real Jane Austen: A Life in Small Things by Paula Byrne, What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew: From Fox Hunting to Whist—the Facts of Daily Life in 19th-Century England by Daniel Pool and Fashion Victims: The Dangers of Dress Past and Present by Alison Matthews David For inspiring music (I enjoyed these playlists while typing out the above and following fragrance and beauty items reviews), see: 1, 2, 3 and 4 Obscura Hortus Obscura Hortus speaks to my autumn loving heart through and through and I had the most enlightening conversations with the shop owner who made my birthday one to remember as I received a box filled with beautiful dried flowers and lavender buds, treasures (stones and crystals that mean something to the cancer sign, the dreamer and for the moon), scent stories and history. I couldn't be more pleased with this order and can't recommend this little charming shop enough. Thank you, Corrine for everything! (You made this historymagpie and moon child beam). Jewellery Pieces Pumpkin Patch Mini Bell Jar Necklace This necklace is a perfect wearable keepsake to carry around with me to remind me of my favourite season and brings to mind a captured scene of the trees and pumpkins from The Nightmare Before Christmas or Sleepy Hollow and needless to say, I have been wearing it at every opportunity possible. It's extremely light and has a lovely dark emerald drop at the end of the chain which drapes on the back of my neck and adds a touch of extra sparkle. Despite its dainty appearance, this piece can take on an curious toddler (who is a little Autumn Person in the making) with no problem and can serve as an entertaining ornament for a full afternoon. Custom Jewellery Set This whole set is inspired by the Swan's Song legend (as well as a special connection I shared with a dearly missed loved one who collected swans) and it looks like it has been pulled from the vaults of the Romanovs'. The materials used are freshwater pearls, opalite beads and mother of pearl. I wanted a statement piece that looked like it belonged in another era with a romantic feel to it and I also wanted it to be moody, ethereal and haunting with the illusion of rain droplets or ripples and white creamy/silver with flashes from moonlight coming from the stones. A huge tall order and Corrine came through with these gorgeous creations that no camera can truly capture the flash and brilliance of. When I wear these pieces, I feel like someone special is smiling and nodding at me from above. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect birthday gift. Candles The Sweetness Milk & Flower Candle (notes: mulberry, blackberry, citrus, and cream) This candle which appeared in my first order is sublime, to say the least as it smells like summer berries in sweetened milk and has a throw that is impressive and fills my entire downstairs with one inviting fragrance. It also has caught the eye er nose of a relative who never compliments my indie candles and I had to purchase 2 jars for her after I had seen her on different occasions trying to leave with my candle in hand, haha. In addition to the incredible fragrance this jar holds, it has one nifty element added that are real flower petals and small fern fronds pressed against the sides of the glass and as the flame dances in a darkened room the light shines through the petals creating one lovely display to relax by and just stare at. My only negative is I wish the jars were larger (they are 4 oz.) but they are mighty and hold their own for quite a while of time when burning and the owner has offered to sell me a beast-sized candle (my relative also wants one), so that will be coming home to me to enjoy as soon as our current candle jars go empty. Trick or Treat Halloween Candle (no exact listed notes) This adorable little tealight candle appeared in my second order and it smells like pumpkin snickerdoodle cookies. The throw isn't as pronounced as The Sweetness but I still enjoy hovering near it and reading next to it. In this candle, there are tiny pieces of dried petals on top that sink into the wax when melted and I would love this blend in a perfume or a milk candle. I'm curious if the 4 oz. size would have a greater throw versus a tealight (I am not going to lie, I want that pumpkin jar the larger candle is sold in to display on my desk). Dark Orchid Milk Candle (notes: deep dark orchids, creamy vanilla, and sugar) A tealight version of Dark Orchid appeared in my friend's personalized gift box that I ordered and I only had a few seconds to inhale but wow this candle smelled darkly beautiful, floral and mysterious. I could detect it as soon as I accidentally opened the box and when I wrapped it back up and gave it to my friend she kept inquiring what perfume I was wearing and if she could borrow it. I had to hide a smile as she kept asking what I was wearing and if I could get her a bottle then her nose went straight to the box and inside was the tealight wrapped in a fancy gauze bag. I don't think I have ever seen anyone run so fast to light a candle in my life, haha. Fragrance Oils *These blends (made of a base of grapeseed and jojoba oils) are more for ritual purposes and relaxation so the longevity is about 2 hours or more depending on where I dab them and the throw is more like a whisper rather than a cloud that could anger or disturb others. I appreciate all that because my workplace has a ridiculously strict fragrance policy and I love to smell this shop's creations in my hair when I turn or sneak sniffs when no one is looking. As the colder months are creeping in, I can't wait to experiment with this blends on my scarves, cowls and of course dabbing a bit on my pillows. Samhain (A blend of herbs, spices, and resins reminiscent of a chilly night in a pumpkin patch) There is nothing more relaxing for myself than the scent of warm cinnamon and in Samhain the note is front and center on application however it soon drifts into a delightful medley of vanilla, nutmeg and clove creating an ultra-cosy fragrance that I love to lose myself in when I need some cheering up. For me, Samhain is traditional and my childhood memories of fall in a vial and it may be a simpler combination of notes but they are mixed expertly and it never smells overwhelming or any note is overbalanced by another which is impressive because I amp cinnamon and nutmeg. Dandelion Wine (Sweet and tart pear, freesia, plum, wormwood, sunshine and green leaves, part magic, part nostalgia, and the bitter-sweet summer.) This is classy summertime with a lovely plum and pear combination that shifts to realistic greenery and woody herbs after a few minutes then dries down to a wistful heady floral. I wasn't expecting to like this as much as I do with the listed freesia and recalling past experiences with commercial blends that listed freesia but once again indies have shown me there is nothing to fear with florals and I'm happy to jot down, not one headache. This is is floral sunshine to my senses and a keeper. Sarah, Mary, and Winifred (An odd, sweet floral and spicy scent, perfect for prowling the chilly streets on Halloween night in search of mangy black felines and little snot nosed kids who call people ugly. Rose, lavender, jasmine, cinnamon, vanilla, ylang-ylang, dragon’s blood, clove, amber and musk) Sorcière Rouge, is that you? Ah no, there is realistic lavender, jasmine and cinnamon that becomes detectable a few moments after application however I am getting that warm plushy velvet impression I always received with Sorcière Rouge, interesting. I believe it's the rose and dragon's blood reminding me of the other fragrance and as always the dragon's blood is turning to bubbles from a wand with my chemistry with a hint of rose of its own. I know this is an ancient scent recipe however it still shares its sultry dreamy secrets with its wearer and brings to mind something Sarah Sanderson would wear. 'Tis another keeper! Misselthwaite Manor (Dark patchouli and amber, the beautiful gloom and earthy sweetness of old wood, neroli, lavender, and a ghosting of rose. Sweet, dreamy, with an antique charm) The Secret Garden will always have a place on my bookshelf and in my dark little heart so imagine my excitement to see Misselthwaite Manor listed and with lavender. On application, this creation brings to mind opening an antique chest with lavender and neroli sachets laid out on top of clothing dusted and coloured ivory with age. It's oddly comforting and the addition of realistic dried roses and a dry down of warm amber creates a stately fragrance I will be placing on my pillowcases for the colder months to come or into my scented bookmarkers for when I'm enjoying another escape into a beloved topic of history or revisiting a beloved setting I yearn to see someday. Mr. Moundshroud and Joe Pipkin (Spiced apple, pumpkin pie, vanilla, and hay open the scent. Smoky patchouli and anise create a dark and alluring middle, sandalwood and a hint of dead leaves reminiscent of the ghosts of Halloween’s past round it out!) I'm rather picky about apple fragrances and Mr. Moundshroud and Joe Pipkin is impressive, smelling like realistic apple skin and flesh dusted with spices (no sharp soap or fake candy here). I also get the hay with vanilla and anise with creamy sandalwood in the background keeping the spices nicely tempered. I'm not sure if my nose is playing seasonal tricks but I detect a kiss of black pepper that is unlisted. Overall, it's very well blended but the only thing is I wish it lasted longer on my skin, ah well into my curls, unscented whipped soap and onto my spooky warm scarves Mr. Moundshroud and Joe Pipkin all goes. The Autumn People (The strong scent of disturbed earth, moss, and spice as though Mr Dark and his horrible carnival clawed their way out through the forest floor. Ancient frankincense and amber create a strange fog that billows from the midnight steam engine. It mixes with hints of sweet apples, pumpkins, and black tea that hover in the atmosphere around the sleepy autumn town. The presence of dark patchouli and vanilla lingers in the shadows with the dust witch. This scent is weird, wonderful, and unisex. Perfect for the Dust Witches and Mr. Darks of The October Country!) A sweet spice opens this fragrance then distinct notes of tea, sliced apples and resins appears on the mid dry down and finally an earthy patchouli stays along with warmed vanilla amber as well as a ghosting of spice for a good 2 to 3 hours. As its name implies, it is an excellent companion for the howling winds and Mr. Moundshroud and Joe Pipkin. For preference between the two, I find myself reaching for Mr. Moundshroud and Joe Pipkin but nod in approval to both well-blended creations overall. Baba Yaga's Broom (Woody, resinous, sweet, and earthy, like the ancient birch forest she resides in. The scents and herbs correspond with Baba Yaga herself: birch, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, frankincense, vanilla, and bergamot.) I just adore all of these themes of poetry, memories of old houses and Slavic folklore and Baba Yaga smells like the fragrance that greets me every morning after work when I open my bedroom door: cinnamon broom, resins, a little something elegant and ancient wood. Welcome home this blend says, you're safe in your realm now. This is the scent of my lair. The Lady in White (A floral, sweet, deeply haunting and otherworldly blend of spicy carnation, freesia, peach, black cardamom, and dreamy tonka bean. Like a whisper from another world, a spirit in a long white gown passing through walls, her sweetness lingering long after she vanishes.) This was the first vial I pulled out of the carefully curated box and no surprise I adore this! It's spicy, woody and floral on the opening with no dreaded soap rearing anytime and the florals are so fresh and inviting. It was a proper introduction to what this shop could create and how they brilliantly and expertly handled florals that usually sent me a rip-roaring headache (freesia and carnation) but this lady proved there was nothing to fear and I knew I found something special. In regards to the throw and longevity The Lady in White is one of the longest-lasting oils in the catalogue and is also a morpher and a trickster as it is barely noticeable when applied staying close to the skin but a few hours later I receive this powdery elegant (even a little unexpectedly sweet) enveloping farewell to end the night. A true keeper! Crow's Wings (Comforting and delicate, like the dark and iridescent purple and blues seen in crow feathers, warm, sweet, and magical: blackberry, vanilla, patchouli, violet, cinnamon, chocolate, and musk.) The applicator wand holds incredible notes of chocolate, vanilla, cinnamon and backing of fruit but alas my skin chemistry just eats Crow's Wings at first and then only amplifies the violet and turns the chocolate waxy. I can't comment on the musk as I can never identify that element in any perfume from across the realm and the blackberry is overshadowed by the violet on me. I still like this oil and have plans for this blend as a curl oil (my hair amps spice and patchouli and I'm honestly impressed even with the violets they are more soft and powdery versus turning to cough syrup) but as a skin blend this, unfortunately, wasn't a favourite. Ode to a Snowy Evening (A magical blend of earthy trees like juniper and balsam fir, swirl among the scent of mints, spices, mulled fruits, hot cocoa, and the evening winter wind. Wear it while cozied up with a great book of poetry, while trudging snowy forest paths in search of the most perfect tree, while making snow angels, or sleigh riding!) I'm in love with all of these poetic descriptions and names of perfumes in this charming shop's scent library and I wish every one of these blends would play nice with my finicky chemistry but my skin has found notes to tease and torment with me and this time it's the chocolate, pine and juniper which are turning waxy and muted on me. Why?! There is a unique green mystery note that is still present along with comforting mint keeping me sniffing my arms but it's unfortunately fleeting. Does anyone wish to trade skin chemistries? I'm pretty fed up with mine. Rue St. Ann (Dedicated to the ghosts of St Ann Street and the legend of voodoo queen Marie Laveau. Gardenia, soft florals, hints of citrus and spices, ginger, sandalwood, benzoin, frankincense, and myrrh.) Oh, there we go! This is one sultry mysterious gardenia blend and instant love. I wore Rue St. Ann quite a bit this past summer as it strangely works in brutal heat and humidity with the subtle citrus, ginger and frankincense that smells revitalizing but still somehow dark with the buttery seductive gardenia. Why didn't I start collecting gardenias sooner? Another crowning jewel right here for my floral oil collection. The Witching Time of Night (An earthy blend of frankincense, patchouli, and black pepper is the fertile ground where blueberries and lavender sprigs grow. Hints of amber and heady ylang-ylang, spice, and ancient resins create a mysterious and transformative blend. This perfume is a shape-shifter, beautifully odd, and unique.) 2019 was without a doubt the year of blueberry, gardenia and lavender for me as I finally realized I am a fiend for all of these types of notes and must hoard them all like some fierce earth covered beast as I do the same with pumpkins. I can't get enough and The Witching Time of Night is another fine example and vial that will disappear quickly especially with the realistic blueberry amping along with black pepper and lavender. I'm honestly not sure what ylang ylang smells like so I can't identify it but I can say the background of frankincense and amber finishes off this beauty perfectly creating a hooded figure on the moors collecting fruit and herbs under a clouded moon. Grimoire (Inspired by ancient books of magic and invocation. The scent of black tea, tobacco, and aged leather. Earthy patchouli, sweet heliotrope, smoky clove, lavender, ancient spice, and incense smoke.) The longer this blend ages the more I'm falling for it. Right away I'm getting more early spring to summer book reading with Grimoire which suites me just fine as I already have Book of Shadows for the wicked winds and racing clouds at night during November. The heliotrope adds a delicate sweetness to the black tea and worn leather and the dried lavender takes this perfume to another level of lovely and magical. Finally happy to report with Grimoire, the black tea does not turn soapy on me and smells straight from a bag with a fancy label. Setting The Watch (Inspired by ancient midsummer fire celebrations. Sandalwood, cedar, lime, Bergamot, plum, spice, and hibiscus) In the vial and on application, Setting The Watch is a revisit to my childhood as I'm reunited with the unmistakable scent of sweet lime popsicles from a certain brand that that was in a clear tube with white lettering. Mmm, this is a part of summertime I had long forgotten as the lime is so energizing and I'm 5 years old again swinging on my Baba and Pap's porch while the windchimes clank and jingle and rainbow bubbles dance in the breeze. It's such a happy scent and the more this oil dries it moves in the garden or woods with the bergamot, plum and sandalwood as the lime fades away (time machine now, please!). Setting The Watch is going right next to Bombus pensylvanicus (American Bumblebee) for unexpectedly capturing summer childhood memories perfectly. Sleep and Poetry (Wind blows the scent of lilacs from an open window into a warm house filled with the sweetness of shortbread cookies, honey, chamomile tea and cinnamon.) Of course, the lilacs fade immediately on me but when first applied they are lovely and realistic with no soapy pinching headaches to report. I get the crumbs from a shortbread cookie, realistic cinnamon bark and even a drop of honeyed tea. It's a sweet and calming blend bringing to mind a folksy kindly figure pottering about in her kitchen. I just wish Sleep and Poetry lasted longer on my skin, here's another oil for my hair. Oh, that's better and the warm honey amps in my curls. Another keeper! The Owls Are Not What They Seem (Weird, extremely woodsy, deep, and unisex. Notes of Benzoin, Patchouli, Douglas Fir, Juniper, and vanilla) This blend is taking me on an evening walk into the hollow looking for deer scrapes in November with my father. The patchouli and vanilla are the most dominant notes on me with the fir and juniper fading quickly into the background. It's like sitting in the packed dirt among the old pine nettles listening to the sounds of the early night. Very comforting and another I wished stayed longer on my skin. Queen Mab (Essential oils of lavender, cedar, peppermint, jasmine, and vanilla intended to calm the mind, aid in deep sleep, and create vivid dreams.) I've had intense vivid dreams for as long as I can remember so I can't comment on how well this oil works for dreamwork but I can gush about the delightful peppermint, lavender and vanilla that opens this blend that helps me relax after a long week. For those curious, the jasmine drifts in the background adding a floral sweetness and peeks out on occasion along with the cedar. Queen Mab is another unique lavender collage to hoard away. To The Lighthouse (Unisex, fresh, and reminiscent of salty air, driftwood and seaweed washed upon the shore. Sea salt, petitgrain, lavender, lime, and sage.) I have never stepped foot on a beach or seen an ocean in this lifetime so I can't say how realistic this is to a setting, however, I can't help but love the salt, sandy dirt note that is amping on my skin. For aquatic medleys, To The Lighthouse is quite interesting that is doesn't resemble soap on me and has the quality as I can only describe as "natural". It tells a dreamy scent story I wish to learn more about and I truly hope this is what a stormy beach smells like. Walpurgisnacht (Tobacco, honey, aromatic woods and spices, and a touch of rosemary. Sweet spring, fresh air, and a dash of hell fire!) Tobacco and honey seekers look no further than Walpurgisnacht as this spring golden honey and a scattering of fresh tobacco from a pipe. The rosemary is hidden on me and I amp the honey and something bringing to mind a floral; perhaps even unlisted sandalwood is waiting on the dry down as well. Mmm, it smells like honey tea sticks on me and a pouch of pipe tobacco which is all extremely comforting and reminding me of March winds and April showers. The First Hint of Spring (An attempt to bottle a spring morning. Dewey grass, muddy earth, sweet floral wisps of lavender and violet, and damp wood) Well, this attempt described above is truly ace and I can't stop huffing my wrist. This is the scent of fresh sun-warmed grass with sweet lavender and powdery violet on the breeze. Wow, this is gorgeous and the best atmospheric of spring grass I have come across in the indie realm. I just want to roll around in this fragrance and stare up at the scuttling fluffy clouds. The First Hint of Spring is a must to try if you having been searching for a little vial or bottle to hide away and remind yourself in the dead of winter of the magic to soon arrive. Brava, Corrine! Once Upon A Midnight Dreary (Patchouli and anise conjure the image of a dark chamber, and a stately raven repeating “nevermore”, bergamot for wisdom, a ghosting of lavender and violets for the nagging memory of Lenore, and clove for the dying embers who wrought their ghosts upon the floor.) I could bathe in star anise and Once Upon A Midnight Dreary is a fine example of that mysterious spice that just sweeps me away along with lavender and clove. I usually amp patchouli and violets to the heavens but this and a few others from the scent library of this curious shop have me excited to see violets listed in the description; that in itself is well worth mentioning and applauding. I know which special scarf this gem is going on. Stay Off The Moors (Inspired by full moon nights when werewolves lurk in fog, out for blood! A deep, arguably more masculine blend of peony, cypress, patchouli, black sandalwood, musk, and oud wood.) The above notes create a delight for my fiendish little imagination as it conjures a brooding Gothic anti-hero who let's be frank is a cool drink of water with a sweeping top hat, whew this one is seductive smelling. It's like this extremely debonair mysterious Victorian Gentleman has entered your life but has a dark side when he leads you into the moonlight that you should fear but can't stay away from. I already asked if the scent artist could create a hot vampire gent scent next. Ahem, I'll be tucking Stay Off The Moors away for future use, haha. Dear all available men, WEAR STAY OFF THE MOORS! Lady Anne's Ghost Garden (A smoky rose, gardenia and coffee brew, punctuated by wisps of sandalwood and vetiver ghosts, cardamon, tonka bean, and a hint of clove.) This perfume is inspired by a fascinating 17th-century woman, however, on me, this blend brings to mind a haunting 1920's Jazz Singer all in shimmer under the smokey spotlight. The coffee melds beautifully with the cardamon, sandalwood and florals, sweeping me away to another era and I feel I could croon and sway wearing Lady Anne's Ghost Garden. I must also note here's another impressive mixture of notes that usually go oh so wrong on me but somehow magically create something unique and to recommend. The Ride-by-Nights (The faintest hint of cinnamon swirls in a breeze of oakmoss, sandalwood, neroli, sage, and hay. Patchouli and hints of lofty tree tops, night air, damp earth, and myrrh. This isn’t a typical spicy autumnal scent. It’s fresh and crisp, reminding one of the magic that lingers in the air in autumn, especially on Halloween night!) Cinnamon is another note I can't get enough of and it swirls wonderfully with the neroli, hay, myrrh and patchouli ending as a sweet fruit fragrance with a spooky playful undercurrent. It smells like airy candy matching the poem of the same name and is another oil I will be using for my curls. Top Picks (in no particular order): The Lady in White, Rue St. Ann, Stay Off The Moors, Misselthwaite Manor, Baba Yaga's Broom, Setting The Watch, To The Lighthouse, The First Hint of Spring and Samhain Shiny Stones And Special Meaning Crystals And finally, I present my collection of 20 special stones and crystals selected by the owner that means something to the cancer sign, the dreamer and for the moon of course. *Each stone was individually wrapped and labelled with either a specific meaning attached or accompanied by a fascinating myth surrounding the stone or crystal. These shiny items arrived with an adorable bottle of incense and a palo santo wood piece with lavender that not only smells incredible but is for "cleansing you space". I'm not honestly sure how to review crystals so I'll just post my thoughts on the certain stones which I guess have "selected" me and have become something very special for me. Satin Spar (Selenite)- I asked for a stone that would remind me of the moon and Selenite is it with its white glowing brilliance that looks like I'm holding a beam of moonlight. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Satin Spar (Selenite) was named after the Greek Goddess of the moon Selene. It seriously looks like you're holding a bit of the moon in your hand! So lovely *Don't get it wet, it dissolves" she also mentioned "it's a great stone for cancer zodiac, aids in psychic abilities, connection to the moon" **Just a brief note from a crystal novice: This stone is very soft versus say Kyanite and WILL break. So a little caution isn't a bad idea. Handle gently. Rose Quartz- This stone is probably my favourite as I find the most mysterious comforting energy from it and I know this sounds bizarre but when I'm holding it, it's like I'm holding the hand again of a loved one I miss every day. It even warms up and the added weight in my palm creates this amazing experience. I don't know if a stone can "remind you of someone's essence or spirit" but Rose Quartz is my Baba. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Nurturing, grounding energy, cancer stone, soothing and peaceful". There is also a wonderful myth attached to Rose Quartz that involves Aphrodite (you can read it on Obscura Hortus's site as well as many other fascinating legends connected to each stone and crystal available for purchase). Labradorite- If Selenite is the clear beam of glowing moonlight then Labradorite brings to mind the moon behind night clouds. It has this aura about it that shines and flashes and I would love a cabochon necklace of this dark protective stone set in a satellite style with perhaps carnelian drops or moonstone. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Inuit people once believed the Northern Lights fell from the sky and became trapped within the stone. It's like holding a piece of the night sky!" also "Stone of transformation, bringer of light, spirit communication/protection". Lapis Lazuli- This was a complete surprise addition that has been a lovely stone to hold while I'm either browsing the wide web or typing out my thoughts as I am now. It's a nifty inspiration stone which I would love to start collecting jewellery pieces (and a pen) of soon. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Mined as early as the millenium B.C./was ground into powder for blue paint pigment during the Renaissance/adorned the funeral mask and sarcophagus of King Tut (Egyptians used it n funeral rituals)/was believed to be the starry night sky and flesh of the gods." "Enhances the mind and creativity. Wonderful stone for writers". Black Kyanite- To me, this stone looks like a shard of coal and iron melded together. If Rose Quartz is my Baba, Kyanite lets me think of my Pap. I'm eyeing that Kyanite necklace on the site hard at the moment but would love a pair of stone earrings to match. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Black Kyanite for protection and clearing negative energy". Optical Calcite- When I first browsed this curious shop's full listing this was the initial stone that caught my eye and I loved the trivia that was posted about it. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Vikings used it as a compass to navigate the open sea. By passing light through calcite, even on cloudy days, it's possible to detect polarization rings to locate the sun". "Excellent cancer zodiac stone, aids in self-expression and keeping emotions in check". Dominican Amber- Yes, I did dance and seal clap in pure glee when I saw a piece of genuine amber was added to my order. Jurassic Park is one of my top five favourite films and I already collect amber jewellery. Don't look at me like that! When you are holding amber polished or not, you are holding the world's history in your hand. It's millions of years old and it's feather-light which is also so flipping neat about it. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Beauty, longevity, cleansing. Put under a black light! (it looks so cool)" Note to self get a blacklight. Larvikite (Norwegian Moonstone)- This was another stone that immediately caught my attention when I saw the photograph of this unique speckled stone. The legend of it being another fallen piece of the moon had me revisiting the page for weeks before I finally decided to contact the owner for this huge custom order. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Hightens the senses, elemental magic- clarity & meditation". Herkimer Diamonds- I received one and the other was found in my friend's curated box (she is a Gemini and stones attached to her sign and for different reasons I asked for were selected: Green Opal, Tiger's Eye, Rose Quartz, Emerald). Wait until you hear why this stone is so different from others. Here's what was shared about this stone: "Herkimer Diamonds create a cosmic link between friends and loved ones. You and --- both have one, so you'll always be in tune no matter the distance". "Spiritual wholeness, high vibrational healing stone". Overall this whole custom birthday order was more than I could have asked for to find. This was the first time in years that I smiled on my birthday and I can't recommend this little shop enough whether you are looking for a unique scent, stone or some trinket with various purpose and meaning. Obscura Hortus Stereoplasm While other indie shops may have thought ancient lost civilizations, conspiracy theories and strange magnificent beasts of legend and lore weren't exactly spring theme fragrance material, one shop said it could be done and dared to go completely outside the box this past spring release. Taking notes from the elements (and perhaps an appendage or claw from some intergalactic being and a Cryptid yet to be fully identified) Stereoplasm presented 6 blends in 2 collections. The following were my overall thoughts and of course some added history for your amusement... Bottles World's Fair 1893 Sleeping Giants Eye of the Sahara One Note at a Time World's Fair 1893 (Plum brandy, genisteae, melted steel, powdered porcelain and stained glass) There be violets in this as it's the first note that hits my nose along with the plum brandy that adds a sharpness to the powderiness of the unlisted floral. The genisteae (or broom) gives this blend just a hint of a cola herbal smell. The metal and the plum brandy dance back and forth as this oil dries and I'm in love with this bottle. All around applauds to Stereoplasm for the attention to historical notes as this brings to mind an elegant lady walking along the bright lights of the World's Fair. If certain literary characters were allowed to escape their pages, I would say this is the fragrance worn by Irene Adler touring the Chicago Columbian Exposition, it's inventive and has a little of a seductive mysterious streak (perfect for the getting the attention of a certain detective). Passing the knowledge along: The World's Fair 1893 was an influential social and cultural event that attracted millions of people from across the world to a massive 6 month event built to showcase technological advancements in about every field you can think of and had a profound effect on architecture, sanitation, the arts, Chicago's self-image, and optimism in American industrial companies (it was also rumored the fair may have had some intergalactic ingenuity displayed and not everything showcased was as it seemed). One set of infamous names involved with the fair was Louis Comfort Tiffany who designed along with Clara Driscoll an incredible chapel of stained glass and screens depicting different scenes from the bible and images of nature unlike the world had ever seen before. Another fascinating note to share is while the bright lights of the fair blazed a true con-artist turned murderer stalked the edges of the grounds taking in tenants and sightseers to his building built for one purpose and after they signed a contract, they were never seen again. The name of this con-artist was Herman Webster Mudgett (and crime history will remember him as Dr H. H. Holmes). For titles on the subject of the Chicago Columbian Exposition, Louis Comfort Tiffany, Clara Driscoll and of course H. H. Holmes, I highly recommend: The Devil in the White City by Erik Larson, A New Light on Tiffany: Clara Driscoll and the Tiffany Girls by Martin Eidelber, Nina Gray and Margaret K. Hofer, Clara and Mr Tiffany by Susan Vreeland, Noon at Tiffany's by Echo Heron and Depraved by Harold Schechter Sleeping Giants (Stone moss, bearded iris, carbon, wildflowers and petrified wood) In the bottle it's moss and sweet narcotic like wildflowers that sweeps me away to a lonely field staring at a huge rock formation that could very well have extraterrestrial origins, ancient connections or it could be just be a case of Pareidolia. Once applied this oil takes on a vintage powdery perfume element and the green notes sink into the back ground. I love this scent at this moment but alas the full dry down resembles soap on me. I've had tremendous luck of placing this oil in my unscented argan hair oils and whipped soaps. Out of the bottles in these collections Sleeping Giants and Ogopogo were the most "spring forward" fragrances, capturing the season in a unique way as only this shop can. Eye of the Sahara (Ancient spice, lovegrass, ambergris and sea salt beneath hot sand) I'm ashamed to admit I never heard of this amazing circular feature located in the Western Sahara desert before this collection of perfumes was announced. The Eye of the Sahara (the Richat Structure or Eye of Africa) can be seen from space and is believed by many to be the secret location of Atlantis. This perfume based on the dome of stones that predates life on earth has been a smash hit for me and something I keep reaching for. It may have to do with the alluring concept of world travel as Eye of the Sahara smells so exotic (with a trace of tempting spice and warm comforting dust) or it could be that this oil is somehow vintage smelling and makes me long for another time. I saw someone was asking for everyone's adventurous mood fragrances on Reddit, well Eye of the Sahara is my answer. It brings to mind an early 20th-century woman of travel (Agatha Christie visiting the sands and tombs of Egypt) or that a bottle would be found on a vanity next to intriguing artifacts and a dusty roll of tools of a silver screen heroine, ready to go for the next exciting treasure hunt. What ever the reason, I'm so happy I went with my gut and purchased the Buried/Lost Civilizations collection. Dare I say, it has been one of my personal favourite releases this year from any shop. Vials and Bottles Mothman Ozark Howler Ogopogo One Note at a Time Mothman (Grey vetiver, phalaenopsis, red cardamom and a hint of sulphur) I know the legend of the collapse of the Silver Bridge in Point Pleasant, West Virginia. I've seen the movie and yes, I do watch for red glowing eyes when I'm driving at late at night. Mothman is probably the more recognized name in this collection and boy, does he get an eerie clean fragrance. In the vial it's fresh and sweet with vanilla but when applied this awesome unexpected "buzzing" element comes out of nowhere and it smells like the window metal screen of a porch door (don't ask me why I know that smell, haha). Mothman tells a scent story of clean laundry being hung on the line and then some fantastical beast screeching out of the dark and flies past eyes blazing and antennae "buzzing". Unique notes and impression aside this is still extremely wearable and I like it but I'm just not sure this oil is for completely me. I have a friend who loves and treasures "clean and fresh" perfumes, so Mothman may have a new home soon if they get along. Ozark Howler (Fallen dogwood leaves, warm fur and white horehound) This fragrance is inspired by a huge hulking black beast that lives in the remote mountains of Arkansas, Missouri, Oklahoma, and Texas. I'll fully admit I zoned in on the white horehound that was listed and had visions of anise and decaying leaves dancing in my head when I ordered. The presentation of my the bottles was so creative as they arrived in a box marked "live animals" with adorable little googly eyes attached on top, I was pretty excited to crack this blend open and I could only describe it as "hot man dog/cat". Not the best description to ever come from my pen but there it was, the aroma of a shaggy strangely attractive canine/feline man. Months later the dried wet leaves are more dominant now and I get the shaggy warm fur on the long dry down. It's something else and a must try for those that like an atmospheric with an alluring animalistic side- think if Vincent from (1987) Beauty and the Beast (does anyone remember that show?) moved out of the sewer and into the remote mountains still reading and reciting poetry (I need to get out more). Ogopogo (Cool Rippling lake, water lily, seaweed and snake skin) It's an ultra entertaining word to say really fast and thanks to the show Unsolved Mysteries, I'm fully aware of this monster of the deeps of the Canadian waters. When it comes to the fragrance, I'm downright blown away how realistic the lake water accord is and this unexplained creamy white floral that keeps catching my attention. I dare say it's pretty and definitely beguiling. There is something in this that reminds me of The Sky is Falling and I think it's an unlisted "ozone" accord and I can detect a sweet stone note hiding just beneath everything else. I also love how this reminds me of carefree days fishing off the dock with bare toes dangling just above the water, ready to pull back and run for my dear little life if I saw something moving in the water. (true confession time- I'm a water sign but I'm terrified of deep dark water and up until this year never really appreciated aquatic fragrances but Ogopogo can stay on my vanity). This was my choice pick out of the Cryptid collection and will be joining me when I travel or when I miss that familiar mud and lake scent of fishing in April. Stereoplasm FEATURED Houses of Fragrance on the Horizon: Nui Cobalt Designs ("Magical scents & sundries.")9/6/2019
Sometimes a house of fragrance finds you and so it goes with this next shop who contacted me on Reddit. I admit I had heard of Nui Cobalt Designs within the IMAM forum and I was enamored by their aesthetic and themes but I didn't know anyone who had sampled their wares and I put them on the list for "someday", well someday just happened and I can't thank Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs enough for sending me a box filled with samples to ramble about and lose myself in... The time has come to talk of many things of realistic smelling herbs, a magnetic Art Deco theme that branches off into bewitching collections and stellar honey, fruit and florals accords that have quickly become my favourites to dab and slather this summer. This is one shop that you can truly say: "Expect the unexpected"... One Note at a Time Pixie (The wing'ed Fae folk of Cornwall and Devon. An apple orchard in bloom, spring grasses alive with some unearthly glow, vanilla bean offertory cakes and sparkling honey mead)*Fragrance currently listed on the site I first fell for this blend Midsummer's Night and I haven't stopped slathering it since. This one is floral graham crackers that last around 6 hours on my skin and 8 to 10 hours in my piled-up hair. The apple blossom note is extremely realistic and I found another honey treasure to hoard. Do I see a full bottle in my future?: Oh my, yes! Although it reminds me of Alkemia's Honeycakes for Harvest Moon, no candle note appears after the dry down and I would call Pixie the summer version of the two. I prefer Pixie and the visions it conjures of the legendary apple orchards of Avalon; this will be travelling with me when I go to Glastonbury someday. Hummingbird (A surprisingly bold blend for courage and confidence. Darting from oleander to orange blossom with ripe nectarine, hibiscus tea, and traces of tuberose)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition Despite the description of being bold, on me, Hummingbird is "kind and demure" and when first applied it brings to mind something a classic Disney Princess would wear as she twirls around the dance floor full of dreams and a song in her heart. That all changes at about 2 hours when it morphs to lovely orange blossoms (with a little grit) that get stronger as additional hours go by. Overall it changed to a professional and pretty fragrance that stayed close to my skin. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Despite how lovely and captivating Hummingbird morphed into towards the end of the night, I don't think this blend is for me now but truth be told, I would have had two bottles and a third on the way a decade ago. I'm content with just the vial. Oya (A traditional Louisiana infusion to honour the Lwa of Lightning and call forth her power. Ozone and petrichor sharpen the edges of cardamom, green pepper, and sage, while black cherry and pipe tobacco sweeten the base. Wear this scent to bring the thunder and awaken your sacred fury.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Oya is unlike anything I have smelled before and it has a special place in my collection for the cherry pipe tobacco and spicy rain note this holds. It's unique as I had hoped and I have moved this oil into my rotation of sleep perfumes. That combination of green pepper, cardamom and black cherry makes my mouth water. This one brings the thunder to my senses! Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not a bottle but another vial when this one runs out. Come Hither (In the time-honored tradition of Love Me, Come to Me, and Follow Me Boy hoodoo oils, this is an irresistibly sensual blend for getting - and keeping - someone's attention. Wild pink roses glistening with dew, Southern sweet tea, candied ginger and a gentle touch of clove. This oil is additionally infused with rose quartz, the classic choice for unconditional love. It encourages self-care and assists in maintaining a warm, receptive demeanor. Wear as a beguiling perfume or warm in a diffuser to evoke an air of romance.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site The unmistakable scent of pink roses and sweet tea opens Come Hither that then gains some familiar spice with the clove and ginger. It also has an aldehyde aspect but thankfully that burns down an hour in. I want to say Come Hither is too clean and fresh smelling for me but I oddly like it and will keep it to add a little spice and mystery to my locks. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not at this time but if this comes in hair oil, candle or bath salts, here's my pocketbook. Grey Cat (An ode to my very own regal and ridiculous familiars. Dry smoked vanilla, fluffy marshmallow creme, fresh blueberries, the gentlest touch of lavender and a warm cup of Earl Grey. Wear this comforting blend to attract friendship, allies, and supportive people. It's a potent addition to a Honey Jar or any spellcraft for sweetening relationships.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Mmm smoky blueberries and tea you need to come home to me. Grey Cat is exceptional with a fruit that could steer into the overpowering candy realm with the marshmallow but stays true to freshly picked blueberries next to a cup of Earl Grey and a swirl of bonfire smoke in the background. The anticipated marshmallow with lavender appears on the long dry down that aids as another sleep scent potion in the end. I'm quite impressed the tea hasn't turned into something from my nightmares. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Let's see I finally found a tea blend that plays nice with my chemistry AND it has marshmallow with lavender and smoked blueberries. Yes, you can bet you will see a bottle featured soon. Queen Bee (An opulent blend to evoke confidence, poise, and effortless grace. Creamy white gardenia and fluffy whipped honey)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition I was hoping for a summer version of Sixteen92's Ligeia but instead, have been united with sweet innocent nostalgia as this oil smells like a new baby doll in the warm sunlight on me. I didn't think I would find this familiar aroma until I finally got around to Rose Mallow or Violet Mallow from Solstice Scents but here it is taking me back and bringing my new favourite buttery floral to enjoy as well this summer. This one lasts quite a while as well, fading away completely at 10 hours. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Possibly next year, yes. Although I adore the powdery element of Queen Bee, I'm curious to find out if the luscious gardenia will strengthen after some patient aging (all signs are pointing to yes and I can tell this perfume is going to be heady, just what I have been desiring for a summer gardenia fragrance). Invoking The Muse (This high-powered potion is a paean to the mighty goddesses of creativity and inspiration. Incense and olive leaves lifted by white copal, ancient oak, Mysore sandalwood, and vanilla orchid. This oil is additionally infused with fulgurite: the "lightning stone." Formed as lightning strikes the earth, this mineral facilitates a connection between intellect and Higher Mind. Wear this distinctly Mediterranean scent to dispel performance anxiety. It invokes flashes of insight and banishes creative blocks.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Warm sandalwood, vanilla and a note resembling mint opens on my skin and I can't help but bring my nose closer as incense curls up to greet me after a few minutes. I'm curious if that is Palo Santo that is reading as mint and at the same time what is registering as "Cola or Root Beer" to my nose. I've smelled something like this before...Oh, Alkemia's A Darkness Burning was slightly similar on me but Invoking the Muse has more of a romantic vanilla at the base and after sometime olive appears (totally guessing but it smells like olive oil). I know this oil is for creativity and getting things done but I've moved it into the corner of my collection dedicated to relaxing and reading. There is something very meditative about the scent potion. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not at this time, I'm content with just a vial. Malarkey (A comforting scent to ease your mind and sooth your nerves after dealing with dishonest people. Bread and Butter Pudding: twice-baked slices of soft white bread, salted butter, rich vanilla custard with a modest sprinkle of nutmeg and cinnamon)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition In the vial I get the unexpected scent of fruit, butter and warm toasted bread; it's only when I allow it to meld with my chemistry something magical happens and it morphs to spiced bread pudding with realistic thick vanilla custard and the distinct aroma of freshly prepared french toast but the vanilla custard and light cinnamon stand out the most. Hours later I get a creamy crumbly nutmeg and a richer vanilla base (and I swear a drop of warm honey). It's something else and a tribute to British culinary traditions and old-fashioned baking secrets. Malarkey is never sharp, overly sweet or spicy, waxy or artificial smelling and just like Poppycock, it's perfectly executed. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Absolutely, yes next year (my pocketbook took a hit this summer). I always try to envision what the food from one my all-time favourite cinematic treasures would smell like and Malarkey is what I would be drinking if I were invited to attend the lost boys' dinner from HOOK. It's straight out of my dreams as this is happy thoughts and warm hugs. [says with nose to wrist] It's Bangarang. Dark Mistress (An homage to the Dominant Feminine that evokes indomitable confidence. Spiced pomegranate and stiletto steel swirled in Cabernet over a foundation of leather and mahogany musk.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Oh, hello Midnight Vamp! I thought this blend would be sweeter for some reason but the realistic metal is adding a dangerous element along with the leather. Dark Mistress is untamed and seductive, I like it and I'm thrilled to find a pomegranate fragrance that carries a bit of a bite. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not a bottle but another vial as I find this strangely beautiful blend something out of my comfort zone but is still captivating to my senses and I will wear it for special occasions and events (where is a Vampire themed Masquerade Ball when you need one?) This is going next to Alkemia's The Raven which makes me feel like a dangerous Evil Queen. Robin's Egg (A gently protective blend to support you through life's transitions. Dainty forget-me-nots and Lily of the Valley, a dollop of whipped blueberry creme, and a cozy birch nest tucked into a flowering dogwood tree.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition Here is another oil that showcases Nui Cobalt's superb blueberry note and this time it's folded carefully in a creamy floral that I love to place in my curls. It's outrageously romantic smelling but still works for the professional setting. I do notice birch goes powdery on me (like in Sixteen92's Aeromancy) but Robin's Egg is a definite keeper. I can't get enough powdery wonders from the indie realm. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, next year if I start saving now. I want so many different magical blends from this shop. I would also absolutely purchase this in a candle. Tryptophan (A soothing sleep blend to lull you into a deep and restorative night's rest. Softest sandalwood, warm vanilla and clary sage are accented by precious blue chamomile and subtle french lavender. Please note: there is no actual tryptophan in this fragrance.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site This oil smells like smooth buttery caramel and lavender on me. The creamy sandalwood catches my attention a few moments after application and true to its name, Tryptophan lulls my senses to a relaxed state and off to bed. I must jot down this scent potion only lasts so long but I do get a subtle note of lingering mint-caramel when I wake hours later. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, eventually. Feu Follet (The Cajun version of Will o' the Wisp, a luminous inhabitant of swamps and marshlands who's said to lure travellers to a watery grave. Sultry southern magnolia, wild muscadine, honeysuckle, and Spanish moss clinging to the trees.)*Fragrance currently SOLD OUT on the site When will I learn to not go solely by what the applicator wand holds because Feu Follet is another perfume that morphs and flickers on my skin going from floral to deep dark fruit and back to a watery moss note then ending as floral sweet tea that all brings my nose closer. I'm still training my nose and I can only guess the floral that is amping on me is the magnolia (it kind of reminds me of gardenias with a small lemon heart). Feu Follet is a bit heady but I like it. Our family friend who was a true southern belle would have loved this. Do I see a bottle in my future?: I would rather wear this fragrance as a toast to my departed friend and am happy with the vial at this time. Now I know what magnolias smell like. Indie Mood: Giulia (Unabashed refinement and sheer elegance. White santal and sunwashed teak edged with vetiver, silk, and chilled Earl Grey)*Fragrance currently listed on the site I'm still deciphering this expensive smelling blend as I get a not unpleasant soap combination that stays close to my skin. Tea can turn into sudsy aldehydes and despite the other above-listed successes with Earl Grey listed, I don't think this one is for me. I'm going to pass this vial along to a friend who loves and hoards these types of elegant "clean and fresh" mixtures (I believe she will be very pleased with Giulia). There is a different blend in Nui Cobalt's catalogue for everyone. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Wings of the Morrigan (Goddess of victory, courage, and sovereignty. If honored appropriately, she may strengthen the righteous warrior and stand as a fierce protectress of the land. If angered, she may portend certain doom. Soft, smokey leather with a splash of red wine, an offering of black cherries and bitter chocolate, the steel and stone of the battlefield. Wear this enchanted scent to summon your valor and claim your crown.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition Smokey patchouli, leather and unsweetened cherry wine open the scene and it's like some awesome beast unfolds her wings with a smirk on her red-black lips. You can't look away and you know she is there to wreak vengeance on foolish mortals but you can't move and are compelled to bow down. This fragrance isn't for the weak and I'm shocked I have taken such a shine to this perfume. Wings of the Morrigan plays wonderfully on my fiendish little imagination and I must admit I love Nui Cobalt's leather accord. The chocolate is extremely subtle and only appears under different conditions on my skin. Hours later the steel and stone (and hint of smoke) is all that remains with the leather bringing to mind a battlefield of yore. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Eventually. Just like Alkemia's The Raven, Dark Mistress will be for special occasions, reading certain topics and writing. The Bees' Cotillion (So fancy! This ebullient blend evokes mirth and merriment to highlight your most endearing qualities. Succulent pears simmering in spring honey with the gentlest breeze of lily carried in a homespun infusion of honeysuckle flowers)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition Well I just found a kindred spirit fragrance to join Alkemia's Les Courtisanes for my favourite pear perfume as The Bee's Cotillion is an intoxicating blend of fruit, honey (I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey fragrances; I want to hoard them all like a shimmery amber dragon) and florals. I always wear Les Courtisanes near the end of summer well into fall and winter for special conferences so The Bee's Cotillion fills in that seasonal gap and I know this sounds odd but this scent is lucky as good things seem to happen when I don it. It's professional and positively unique and says I have arrived in life while also staying approachable. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, The Bees' Cotillion will be joining my collection next year. Horsefeathers (A sumptuous scent to help you keep your cool when people try to pull the wool over your eyes. A traditional Arctic Roll: vanilla bean ice cream wrapped in a blanket of yellow sponge cake and a layer of vibrant red raspberry jam.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition Can I just say that this shop executes gourmands beautifully and Horsefeathers is another where I could lick my arm. In the vial, it's admittingly a little rough medicinal smelling but once it has a few moments to settle this oil takes on a buttery cake quality with fresh raspberries spread on top and quickly shoots to one of the top raspberry cake perfumes I have tried (it will join MoonaLisa's Aurelia in my dream gourmand section). I amp the butter but hours later a clear vanilla ice cream aroma makes me dance in my chair, yisss! I must also note Horsefeathers does not turn waxy or artificial at any time. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, if Aurelia were ever discontinued. I would love a candle of this fragrance for my bedroom or a jar of bath salts. Vila (The beautiful silver-haired faeries of Slavic folklore who may choose to align themselves with worthy humans, or unleash fury upon the unworthy. Apricots preserved with cardamom, clove, and brown sugar, dewy Bulgarian roses, and luminous white silk.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site This is such a lovely blend that morphs from a fruity-floral jam that somehow smells creamy to warm spicy-wooden roses with every other gentle gust of wind. Vila has been accompanying me quite a bit to my workplace and I love it all the more that is based on Slavic faeries that can either be benevolent or unholy demons. Saying that, I'm happy to report on me, Vila is ethereal, expensive smelling without turning into soap and utterly beguiling (I can't get enough Bulgarian rose blends). Do I see a bottle in my future?: One word, yes. Flummery (A truly delicious scent to help you gain perspective when people try to twist the truth. Highland Flummery: toasted oats and warm heather honey folded gently into whipped cream and drizzled with a shot of Drambuie.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition With all the above successes, there are always those vials that end up unfortunate cases to report and I'm very sad to say Flummery hit all the wrong notes on my skin and nose (yeasty beer and unexplained musty banana with an absence of honey or oats appearing at any time of testing). Needless to say, Flummery will not be sadly joining my collection but I do hope someone else out there appreciates this homage to proud Scottish baking traditions (What a shame, I wanted to wear this to the Highland Festival this year, can someone recommend a heather honey perfume, please?). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Road Opener (This time-honored classic is renowned for its power to clear away obstructions and banish energy blocks. It illuminates the path to success in all areas. Scent notes of warm lemon tarts with the subtle freshness of green herbs and a base of smooth frankincense.) *Fragrance currently listed on the site Tart lemon, frankincense and rosemary, take me away! I mean this in the most positive way- this smells like Liquid Gold lemon wood polish and I am one happy lady. It's intoxicating and divine. As time goes on, the lemon tarts come out a little more and resembles an unsweetened dessert. The frankincense is indeed smooth and it's like an open window during spring cleaning folded on top with lemon dessert waiting to be enjoyed (for those curious, Road Opener DOES mellow down about 10 minutes and fades relatively quickly versus the other oils I've tried from this shop). I have been enjoying a drop or two in my bathwater to wake me up. Do I see a full bottle in my future?: Most likely when my generously sized vial is empty. I do have another fragrance similar to this on my list to purchase soon but I do want the Road Opener eventually. Indie Mood: Liv (The fecundity of the untamed forest at twilight. Earthy patchouli, deep incense, wild blackcurrants, and the lingering smoke of a maplewood fire.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Just like Invoking the Muse there is a clear mint-like note that attaches to my chemistry and I'm almost positive it is Palo Santo (Poesie's Serene Lace carried the same mint-like note that was later identified as palo santo) and this round it has a distinctive maplewood note backing it creating a sticky sweet mint-maple wood combination. The realistic smoke from a bonfire appears shortly after with a subtle patchouli scent. I don't get any blackcurrants as the smoky maplewood amps on me the most and Liv does smell like twilight in autumn with an ancient forest reaching into the sky. This is going next to Alkemia's Ambre d'Automne and Sixteen92's Sarah Good. Do I see a full bottle in my future?: Not at this time, I'm content with just a vial. I may change my mind this coming fall. Poppycock (A bright fragrance to banish confusion and illuminate the whole truth. Lemon Meringue Pie: frothy citrus sweetness in a toasted almond crust, with white vanilla peaks gently browned under a blowtorch.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition As it says on the tin, Poppycock is a sugary lemon scent confection that shifts to varying degrees of desserts on my wrists and crooks of my arms. It's not waxy or sharp and I get either vanilla cake with decorative swirls of citrus or textbook perfect whipped lemon meringue with a crunchy almond shell. The longevity is also impressive as this scent fades in about 4 to 5 hours on my skin making this the longest-lasting lemon dessert perfume I have found yet for myself (usually lemon dessert oils are gone on me before I leave the house). There is also a distinct heavenly smoke note with toasted almonds that is last to leave me for the night and I have been wearing Poppycock quite a bit this summer. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, next year this one will be mine and displayed next to Malarkey. Little Brown Rabbit (An auspicious blend for abundance and great good fortune. Nutmeg and tonka bean nuzzle up against fluffy marshmallow, cottonflower, pink pepper, and a trace of carrot seed.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition I must agree with others' thoughts on this perfume as a comforting laundry note with carrot is the first thing that hits my nose and it does bring to mind Beatrix Potter's classic tale of Peter Rabbit. I've never smelled anything like this and I should be disappointed in the cottonflower which has attached to my chemistry but I don't hate this oil. Perhaps Little Brown Rabbit appreciates my efforts and not pulling away from the laundry soap note because within an hour I'm rewarded with creamy crumbly nutmeg, a kiss of pepper and realistic marshmallow that just makes me huff my wrists. Out of all the vials, Little Brown Rabbit lasts the longest clocking in at 13 hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. I will be wearing Little Brown Rabbit at Eastertime and again in autumn. Do I see a bottle in my future?: I want to say yes, if only that laundry note that hits a tad hard, in the beginning, would be swallowed more by the unique carrot, nutmeg and marshmallow, I would be throwing my pocketbook at the screen. Perhaps Little Brown Rabbit needs some patient aging. I'll decide next year. Indie Mood (The dynamic harmony of light and shadow. Lapsang souchong tea, sumptuous velvet, labdanum and tonka punctuated by precious Peru balsam.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Ooh, I like this. I know it's not listed but I smell sweet cinnamon that swirls with the dark tea and balsam. Once it dries down it dances back and forth between sweetness and dark resins. With the balsam, Indie Mood doesn't last very long on my skin about 3 to 4 hours but does fair better in my curls. This vial is going right next to Sixteen92's Spirits of the Dead for its brilliant display of flickering light and dark qualities (with a tea blend that loves me). Do I see a bottle in my future?: My pocketbook wants me to say no but my dark little soul and nose say, Yes (but only long after the vial is empty). The Bee's Knees (A lively blend to brighten the mood and lift your spirits. Leaves of lemon balm and crushed coriander seeds accompany lavender scones with spring harvest honey and a scant drop of green cognac. Wear this scent to chase away the doldrums and banish the blues.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition Here it is, the perfume I haven't shut up about or stopped dancing around with since it arrived. Simply put this is one of the most realistic honey and old English lavender oils I have found in the indie realm. On me, The Bee's Knees is sun-warmed dark golden honey drizzled over sugar-dusted lavender scones, I don't get any cognac or additional herbs and if they are there, they are blended in so seamlessly and expertly. It's magnificent and has been placed next to MoonaLisa's The Rumpkin! for the best lavender in my collection. Every time I wear it I imagine an English garden scene in summer and The Bee's Knees brightens my mood as described. *I purchased a bottle and it is another crowning jewel of my perfume cache. What can I say it was love at first sniff and I fell hard. Hulda (An ode to the woodland seductress of Scandinavian legend. Slender white birch limbs, lily of the valley, pale angelica glistening with dew, cloud berry and icy moonlit waters.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site/this sample arrived with my purchased bottle of The Bee's Knees I'm still deciphering Hulda as I get a very fresh smelling powdery aquatic that at times can resemble gum on me. It's certainly elegant and crisp and I adore the birch note that appears hours later with the lily but I think it will be passed along to a friend (part of me wants desperately to keep it at the same time and I just may for my locks- I love heady lily of the valley). Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not at this time, I'm content with just a vial. Menehune (Roasted macadamia nuts, teakwood, coconut palm, and ripe pineapple)*Fragrance currently listed on the site/this sample arrived with another purchase of home and bath items I will share my thoughts on another day Despite the gourmand notes this is a "your skin but better" version for summer. It's light and fresh smelling (even a little salty scented) without turning to soap or suntanning lotion. I'm also thrilled to report with Menehune I amp the roasted macadamia nuts and I have definitely reached for this vial more than I thought for the workplace setting. Nui Cobalt Designs has changed my mind about quite a few different scent profiles I thought "I could never pull off". Turns out I can! Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, I just may. *With many thanks to Nui Cobalt Designs for kindly sending me all of these different scent creations and starting a very long prologue to another scent love story for me. Nui Cobalt Designs Stereoplasm is the shop to see if you desire unique but completely wearable fragrances a little off the beaten path. I found this intriguing shop through a forum on Reddit and each time I order I find myself in the presence of a talented scent artistry that should to be placed among the greats and they only continue to evolve and somehow improve with every release. This is one of the rare brands that even though a creation may not work with my skin chemistry, I still find it impressive and unlike anything I have opened before but yet contains memories I had long forgotten existed and I keep coming back for more. Yes, I know I am shamelessly gushing but I must be honest, Stereoplasm (and another house of fragrance to be reviewed shortly called Nui Cobalt Designs) have made me excited about indie perfumes once again. So without further ado, this is Part I of my trove. Vials: Mogwai Charades The Sky is Falling The Velveteen Stranger Last Dance *These adorable sized vials were found nestled among my first order (thank you so much, Meaghan!) that happened to be a special custom fragrance that will be featured as soon as it is finalized. One Note at a Time Mogwai (Listed Notes: Mulled Eastern spice poured over baby crab apple peel, wild chestnut and resinous champa. Scattered and falling ashes of burnt sage, wild hemlock and ancient dark jade) It is no secret that apple is a note I tend to either ignore or find limited success with, so imagine my surprise when I opened Mogwai and was reunited with the aroma of a variety of apple I had long forgotten about and it somehow magically agreed with my skin when applied. For those not familiar with crab apple, they carry a sour and tart fragrance and the apple itself is extremely hard (great for making jellies out of as well throwing and pelting first crushes with). In Mogwai, the sourness and tartness is punched up and warmed by exotic spices and the distinct creamy nuttiness of tough chestnut with incense is also detected as this blend dries. It's a very mysterious perfume that has a strangely alluring side to it and indeed smells "green" and brings to mind a ritual storefront in autumn. A great introductory scent from this curious shop and a keeper. Charades (Listed Notes: Classic purple lilac, lazy handfuls of new grass, slippery stone moss, heliotrope and peppery geranium leaf) Even though I was taken by Mogwai, I'm very sorry to report my experience with Charades turned out to the complete opposite as my chemistry turned this lovely sounding creation into a soapy headache that lasted forever on me. Pity it smells gorgeous in the vial, others have raved about this perfume (I'm so jealous) and I adore heliotrope and geraniums. I don't think lilacs and I are exactly meant to be in the indie world (I have 2 blends right now that somehow work) and if I want to smell like them I will need to tie a basket of them around my neck. It's just one of those special fragrances in nature (like daffodils) that can't be truly bottled (or that my finicky chemistry will allow me to fully enjoy). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). The Sky is Falling (Listed Notes: Pink ozone, trampled tulips, skyline crocus and delicate candy shells) I may rant and lament over my finicky chemistry that seems to absolutely despise me at times and finds fiendish delight in turning beautiful sounding blends into scent nightmares so you can only guess at my reaction when the Silly Rabbits collection tamed the savage beast and they all were surprise successes (The Sky is Falling turned out to be my favorite out of the trio). This one opens with sweet comforting chocolate eggs very like Jordan Almonds or those dreamy Cadbury Mini Eggs you hoard and gobble down during Easter-time and dew drenched green stems of crocus and nodding vibrant tulips. It's a wonderful nostalgic combination that for me takes me back to childhood wearing pastel Sunday finery with Mary Jane shoes padding among the flower beds, hunting for Easter Eggs and sweets hidden in the greenery. The Sky is Falling is a postcard fragrance, it really is and is tied up with a fitting bow when an unexpected nifty pink ozone accord hits hours later which brings to mind a science exhibit I attended years ago that allowed you to experience the inside of a cloud. Don't believe me, try The Sky is Falling for yourself and see where it takes you in imagine and memories. Brava, Meaghan! Velveteen Stranger (Listed Notes: Stolen peaches, yellow marshmallow, chopped cedar, blackberry aftershave and cigar smoke) In the vial it's syrupy sweet peaches, creamy marshmallow and something a little masculine but on me, Velveteen Stranger is pretty peach sugar-encrusted marshmallow Peeps on a cedar plank with a hit of cigar smoke floating in the background. It tells a story and I can see why it was a smash hit this past spring as it's playful with the creative note lineup and morphs ever so slightly each time you dab it on. In terms on longevity, Velveteen Stranger is the longest lasting out of the collection and I can detect it 10 hours later. Another keeper! Last Dance (Listed Notes: Vintage amber, creamy heliotrope, bubbly champagne, and freshly picked wildflowers) When it comes to Last Dance, I'm not sure if it's the classic song of Donna Summer playing in my head or the frothy creamy floral with powder in this blend but to me this is an Easter wedding reception in a vial. It's unapologetically feminine and carries a vintage lacy vein that is perfect for formal occasions or the workplace setting. As it is aging there is also a familiar sweet element peeking through a couple hours after application that can also be found as the candy shells in The Sky is Falling. Last Dance is too pretty to lounge around in your night clothes to wear, it calls for a string of pearls and celebratory music to set it off right. Unlike anything I have in my collection. Stereoplasm It was inevitable I would find my way to the black-ribboned door of Little And Grim as their Memento Mori aesthetic cried out to my dark little Gothic heart but I can thank the Poisoners Guild for making our meeting a lot sooner when they featured an extraordinary soap sculpture on their page. Up until that point in my life, I never knew soap could be more than a simple square or a small rose shape for the upstairs guest bathroom but indies triumph and surprise once again with changing everything I knew about something and creating an item worth displaying. I may not be able to use that soap art on a count of the Glycerin used but I can sure admire it, I mean come on, it's a pile of detailed skulls that look straight out of a fantasy novel or the dank crypts under London or Paris. I fully admit I couldn't stop eyeing each new scented item after that and nearly broke my mouse in the excitement that perfumes were being added to the catalogue. To my utter delight, they had a lilac fragrance and pumpkin and anyone who knows me wouldn't be surprised those were the ones I grabbed first. These were my impressions... One Note At a Time
The Sad Hour (Description and Notes: A covered mirror, a stopped clock, and a black sash upon the door. Fragrant mourning bouquets, gentle women's finishing powder, and the sweetness of a final kiss. Notes of lilac, amber, and vanilla.) This bottle has become a soothing favourite as it's a clean warm creamy blend that I would put into the same realm as Slipped Between His Teeth from The Strange South (a respectful fresh perfume that doesn't give me a headache or something intrusive to those around me but one that makes me feel only clean and elegant). The lilacs are so lovely but disappear on my skin (after 10 minutes) while the other notes amp creating another powdery perfume to hoard away that harkens back to classics. Overall, a beautiful ode to a lost era and season. *The following vials appeared in my first order, thank you so much, Little And Grim! Tell-Tale (Description and Notes: A taste of feverish autumn: Blood pounding, madness rising, a heart thumping beneath a warm wooden floor. Notes of pumpkin, apples, oak leaves, oak moss, cedar, musk, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and brown sugar.) Hello, pumpkin my old friend, you always cheer me up and I can't stay away from you (nor do I want to). Supporting the familiar comforting fruit is a dose of creamy nutmeg, apple, cinnamon and brown sugar. There is also some undernotes of cedar and rustling dead leaves that are becoming more noticeable as the vial ages. My only slight disappointment is Tell-Tale is so fleeting on my skin like a gust of autumnal wind (in my hair about 5-6 hours though). I hope the lotion is available in the coming months in this fragrance because this is like the perfect early seasonal blanket scent for me and I want to slather it. Botanomancy (Divination by burning plants) (Description and Notes: Fruit-laced herbal smoke and spicy glowing embers. Notes of fig, apple, lemon, ginger, sage, frankincense, caramel, cinnamon, and smoke.) The ghosts of the autumn season speak to me with this creation as my chemistry pulls the apple, sage, smoke, cinnamon and frankincense notes forward on first application. The apple is dominant with something that smells of poached figs then a smoky combination of sage and frankincense swirl into the scene keeping my nose to my wrist. An hour later a snap of ginger is detectable with warm caramel and the cinnamon stays true lingering the most out of the notes (Botanomancy and The Sad Hour lasted the longest on me). Another keeper! Mount Auburn (Description and Notes: A dizzying array of all the flora that buds in Massachusetts. Fragrant, fruity blossoms and towering trees shading gentle, winding paths. Notes of raspberry, melon, honeysuckle, lilac, wisteria, and spruce.) In the vial, this blend promises so much sweet fruit and pine but alas after a few moments on my skin some mystery note turns sharp and then Mount Auburn fades completely away in under 30 minutes. I have had better luck with this pretty blend in my curls giving me a total of 4 hours to enjoy (the lilac and spruce remind me of The Strange South's Poor Dove, which also oddly disappears on my skin). If this fragrance ever was released in a bath bomb or salt it would be mine. Little And Grim MX Perfume It's time for a revisit to one nifty shop that offers creative blends with an old Hollywood horror glam twist (and something a little more this round). One Note At a Time Monster Bride (Listed Notes: Green Apple, Peony, Sweet Pea, Rose, Musk, *Castoreum, *Ambergris *animal-friendly) The only way I can describe MONSTER BRIDE is Cruella de Vil with peony and sweet pea, she is a fashionable high-end beast, that reminds me of an extremely expensive perfume but with a sinister twist. A crackling of lightning and musk...it's really growing on me. Premature Burial (Listed Notes: Bay Leaf, Turmeric, Pimento, Magnolia, Ylang, Black Pine, Costus Root, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk) I admit when PREMATURE BURIAL arrived it carried more of a soapy quality in the vial that frightened me but I must say this oil has vastly changed from a couple months ago. Now each time I dab it on, something else catches my attention with this oil, tonight it's black tangled roots after an opening of realistic pine and something being "tattered and torn" about PREMATURE BURIAL. I think this oddly comforting blend is in the unisex realm of fragrance and as equally strange as it sounds, I would wear this perfume to a brunch in a stormy graveyard. It's broken-down and somehow fancy smelling at the same sniff and pause; another surprise keeper in my dark little book. Black Sun (Listed Notes: Red Mandarin, Black Tea, Ginger Root, Rose, Incense, Cistus, Benzoin, Black Musk) In the vial BLACK SUN promises so much as it's black tea with incense and sweet benzoin (this has been the vial I have been anticipating for quite awhile). Once applied the lovely rose comes forward with the ginger and it's akin to a warm sweet floral tea that amps for a few moments on me and then changes completely over to sharp soap and stays that way for hours (thanks skin chemistry, hate you too). Overall, a rare miss for me from MX Perfume. I'm interested to read others impressions on this creation, the tea and rose note would be magic on anyone else and I'm jealous. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Amber Decay (Listed Notes: Mandarin, Orange, Honey, Tobacco, Lily Of The Valley, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Amber, Agarwood) The applicator wands holds wondrous notes of juicy and sweet orange, honey and lily of the valley that call out from another elegant time period and I can't wait to slather. When applied AMBER DECAY is unapologetically feminine with honey-glazed orange blossom and warm ambered tobacco that all brings to mind the final days of summer. Hours later it's soft and powdery lily of the valley with a woody base; it's so pretty. This is a definite future purchase after the vial runs out. Warm Leatherette (Listed Notes: *Leather, Metallic Notes, Birch, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood, Carnation, Black Pepper *animal-friendly) As it says on the tin, this is one chic leather and vanilla fragrance that has become my go-to when I want to step out in another persona for the night (or blast 80's and early 90's music from Cher). The creamy spicy carnation with leather and vanilla amp on me the most and it's a surprise win for my senses. I would call WARM LEATHERETTE more of a unisex fragrance and I'm very curious what notes would amp on a man. It's also a fabulous sleep scent potion. Into the basket it goes. Rubedo (Listed Notes: Pink Grapefruit, Mandarin, Rose, Melon, Honey, Musk, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Ambergris) I'm going to concede the title of favourite of this round to RUBEDO (WARM LEATHERETTE in a close second) with its honeyed grapefruit, melon and complex rose stealing away my nose and straight into the lineup of perfumes to wear for the workplace RUBEDO is placed. It almost smells sparkly on my wrist like a precious jewel catching the light with also some underlying snap and sizzle and I waited far too long to add RUBEDO to my collection. Cemetery Lip Salve in Vampy Vanilla *This shop has it all and I'm thrilled to see these types of upcoming body and scent indulgences for dark little hearts everywhere. Thank you so much, The Candle Parlour for sending this sample of lip salve. This salve has been one of my go-tos this hot drying summer and I would purchase it. The formula is not overly soft or hard or oily and it doesn't break out the skin around my mouth. The scent is a light vanilla that doesn't interrupt midnight lunches with any unpleasant contrasting flavour or waxiness and provides a nice barrier of moisture to my lips (since discovering lip stains my lips constantly need moisturized and I reach for Vampy Vanilla quite a bit throughout the night). Looking at the other available flavours I'm intrigued by "Poison Garden" and hope it's peppermint in disguise. I'll be sure to share my findings (fingers crossed this shop will release bath delights or incense next). MX Perfume It is a truth universally acknowledged that a lady in possession of unwanted creases and dry skin must be in want of a fabulous cream and serum. Whether that lady (or gentleman) is only just noticing them for the first time in the mirror or has lived with skin changes for awhile because they do not believe there can possibly to a solution or relief to such a common unwelcome thing, LittleBits is there for us when you need a little special something from researched nature (the tried and true historical recipes) and thank goodness because this lady needed that little something badly. Being a certain age when my skin seems to have a mind of its own I started noticing lines, dryness with dullness in places which all began to make me self-conscious and that is a terrible feeling. To my favourite marketplace platform I went a haunting and I really do believe in perfect timing because one of my first searches brought me the listing of the 24kt Gold Egyptian Serum from LittleBits and I honestly couldn't leave the page alone, so after contacting the owner with quite a few questions and personal concerns about how well her products would fair well on my sensitive skin, I purchased my first introductory sampling which shortly after became the largest haul I have ever ordered from any indie shop. Long story short, these amazing items have worked wonders for me and like my mom, grandmothers and aunts whom all found their own favorite skin creams/serums/powders that never left their vanities and handbags, I have found mine! 24kt Gold Egyptian Serum Egyptian Oil Listed Materials: 24kt Gold, Myrrh, Frankincense, Egyptian Geranium, Grape Seed Oil Appearance/Fragrance: In the amber bottle that comes with a handy long cosmetic pipette the contents are a yellow colour with actual gold flakes floating in the oil that fill the entire space of the bottle when shaken (you are sure to get flashes of gold in every application). The scent is true frankincense that is a sharp smelling resin and this serum also has an intoxicating lemon-like note present. It's instantly relaxing for me and I love to wear this oil to go to sleep. Performance/Results: THIS is the product I sorely wish I found years ago so I could have staved off some of the unpleasant permanent signs on my skin but overall this serum performs amazingly well and I love adding this bottle to my morning routine before I slip back to bed to get ready for another shift. The gold actually dissolves into my skin and I noticed positive results within a week of using this item (I can wear this all over my face even my chin, along my jawline and nose). It doesn't fight my sensitive skin but soaks right in and even helped with the annoying roughness on my cheeks and helps keep acne at bay. I think this is the oil that has helped soften the crease in my eyebrows the most in conjunction with the 1896 Cleopatra's Enamel. Would I repurchase?: YES *Side Note: In addition to the positive results I have noticed in the mirror and can feel when I touch my face, I adore the history that is incorporated into the selection of the materials used and I found the facts supplied on the product's pages absolutely fascinating (I could read all day long about the healthful properties of herbs and resins). A Lily Pomatum For Wrinkles 1772 Fine Line Salve Listed Materials: Vitamin E, Jojoba Oil, Almond Oil, Therapeutic Grade *White Lily Oil, Organic White Beeswax, Organic Natural WI Honey Appearance/Fragrance: I first received this item in a small beautifully labelled bag then I upgraded to a jar size as soon as it ran out. The cream is a creamy white that requires a quick stir with a plastic spoon and the fragrance is a dreamy delicate lily with powder. The adorable jar is about the size of a lip balm. It's not very large but the contents last quite a while and I can't argue about the moisturizing effect it holds. Performance/Results: I readily admit I have no idea what I'm doing with creams/serum/salves or know if I'm overdoing it with layering everything but I do love to experiment where these items perform best and the Lily Pomatum seems to go best on my cheeks, along my jawline (my skin is tight as a drum again!), neck and on that blasted line between my eyebrows that was so deep looking before I found LittleBits. Would I repurchase?: YES Side Note: *I do take caution when I use this pomatum around my cat (it does contain actual white lily oil and ground root) so I make sure to wash my hands and keep him away from woozing around my face (same with my dogs)- it never hurts to be a little more careful when it comes to lilies and cats (or dogs). 1896 Cleopatra's Enamel Listed Materials: Almond Oil, Rose Water, Myrrh, Honey, Bees Wax, Rose Appearance/Fragrance: As the same with the Lily cream, I first ordered this as a sample then upgraded to a small jar that looks so lovely displayed on my 120+-year-old vanity. The scent is hard to truly describe, it's very light and sweet creamy wax with a hint of almond. The contents of the jar are opaque ivory that is thick and pliable (can be rolled around your fingers to make a ball before applying) but quickly spreads when gently pushed into the skin. I like to use this one of the most noticeable lines as it fills the creases in completely and (in my mind) plumps up those areas. I use a small plastic spoon to take small scrapes of the salve before applying. A little goes a long way. Performance/Results: As you probably can tell I've never used many skin care products (except acne creams and generic makeup) so I'm still learning where and how to use everything. Through some morning testing, I found this enamel does not fair well on my cheeks, chin or nose but it does work nicely on my forehead, elbows, back of my hands (even as a cuticle oil/cream) and this is another item I love to fall asleep wearing. Would I repurchase?: YES 1772 Cold Cream Orange Flower - Toilet De Flora Body Cream Listed Materials: Virgins Wax, Jojoba, Almond Oil, Orange Flower Water, Ben, Jasmine, Orange Appearance/Fragrance: When I opened my first parcel from LBCC I think this cream leaked a tiny bit from the small sample bag (soon then after replaced with a large purchased jar) as it was the first heavenly aroma that greeted me when I opened the box. I believe this scented item (along with MoonaLisa's creation known as Whole) is what set me on a frantic search for anything with orange blossom listed. It's incredible and so historically important if you take the time to read about the famous women who favoured that fragrance. The cream is thin and is an almost transparent white in colour (and it is the same in the jar). Performance/Results: I had to research how to correctly use and delve into my memory to remember how my Baba used her creams but I think I have it now: a nice slightly thick application over my makeup (concentrating around my eyes), a few minutes of enjoying the aforementioned amazing scent composition then a hot to touch washcloth to wipe the cream away starting at my cheeks then leaving my eyes last. This cold cream works wonderfully well at melting away my stubborn mascara and I definitely notice a moisturizing effect when I use it. Would I repurchase?: YES *Full Disclosure: Makeup scares me. There I said it. I've never really worn that much and when any other time I played around I would look like well more of a horrific parody of a lady of the evening versus polished or never felt like myself and that I had this heavy itchy mask on I couldn't wait to get off. I've also never had any luck finding a shade that would match my skin (I'm extremely cool toned) or one that didn't look like cake batter when applied then later left me with painful welts. I've used a gamut of commercial makeup brands over the years and my most recent was Bare Minerals for powder, blush and lipstick. 1912 Sultana Cold Cream Listed Materials: Jojoba Oil, Bees Wax, Almond Oil, Cocoa Butter, Orange Flower Water, Peru Balsam Appearance/Fragrance: This was one of the only products I didn't get to purchase as a smaller sample first and I had no idea what to expect when I opened the beautiful frosted jar so I'm thrilled to say this light fawn coloured cream smells like expensive melted gourmand chocolate! The consistency is simply fascinating as it starts out somewhat solid for a cream but as soon as it touches the skin, it melts like butter (a little goes a very long way and there is a trace of balsam and orange if I concentrate to find the notes). Performance/Results: I would love to sing the praises of the results for this cold cream on myself but sadly this is the only product I purchased that I had a negative reaction to (figures). So instead of my face or elbows, I use this cream on my feet and I really like the softness around my heels and I also have been experimenting with this jar on my cuticles and on my legs. I did get one-half day of use for this formula as an intended cold cream and yes it works to remove makeup, so ignore the rambling lady who has weird unpredictable skin; you want a jar and want to feel you are slathering your face in expensive chocolate, get it. Would I repurchase?: Sadly, no. Only due to the fact that my skin still delights in tormenting me. 1908 Rose Complexion Powder Listed Materials: Rice Powder, Rose Powder, Sandal Wood, Organic Rose, Organic Rose Petals, Natural Essential Oil Appearance/Fragrance: The finely ground powder is a delicate shade of fitting rose and the scent is an equally light floral with a barely-there touch of warm sandalwood. The tin is nicely sized (gorgeously designed) and I feel I will get perhaps a full year out of the contents. Performance/Results: Where has this product been all my life!? It matches my skin tone perfectly and even blurs some imperfections. I love I can touch my face and actually feel my skin versus a greasy mask and I'm impressed it actually absorbs the oil that I work up when I'm dashing about the floor at my workplace. The real test will be this summer and I may have to reapply here and there throughout the day but we shall see. Would I repurchase?: YES (this is a lifetime repurchase for me and I hope it is never discontinued) 1922 Setting Powder Listed Materials: French Talc, Organic Lemon Oil, Organic Bergamot Oil Appearance/Fragrance: Finely ground powder with minute dark specks in it. There isn't a discernable scent to it but maybe it does in the tin which I don't own. It also has a silky feeling to it when touched. Performance/Results: Alone this powder achieves the ethereal appearance that was popular during the 1920's so I think I will use this for events and if I'm lucky be wearing this for the Great Gatsby New Year's themed parties at the end of this year. In the meantime, I do like to carefully layer this over the 1908 powder in spots as it adds a little more protection against oil on my forehead and along my hairline. I really need to buff and blend to get an even look if used all over but I do like this product. Would I repurchase? YES especially if the 100% Pure Pearl Powder was ever discontinued. 100% Pure Pearl Powder Listed Materials: As it says on the tin- PEARLS Appearance: I don't how she did it but I'm holding actual crushed pearls with this product and about to blend them over my face. You can't get more fancy feeling than using real 24kt gold and crushed pearls in self-care and makeup. I love this shop! Performance/Results: Here is another item I have searched years for and wish I found much sooner. This powder works so well over the 1908 formula and blurs some of my scarring. It also softens the pores on my nose that I can't seem to get rid of completely. Finally must mention a few words about the handy mini cosmetic puff that is included with this tin, it adds another touch of refinement and again I feel so fancy and "right" when I use these products. Would I repurchase?: YES Liquid Bloom of Roses 1780 - 1958 Vintage Lip Stain/Cheek Stain Listed Materials: Carmine, Rose Water, Essence of Roses, Organic Rose Oil Appearance/Fragrance: The contents are a deep red with an undertone of blue. The scent is incredible, to say the least, I wish I had a perfume that matched this bottle exactly. It's floral of course but it's so much more and that is true rose water I can smell; you seriously need to smell it for yourself to understand. In terms of the bottle, it's perfect to display and I love that the packaging is a reproduction of the actual label that was used in the 18th century. Performance/Results: Confession time- one full application of this stain and I threw away my powder blush and lipstick I have been using for years. There is no comparison and I can't recommend this bottle enough for those out there that are cool toned (this stain was made for us). I'm still puzzling out how many layers to apply but I think I'm satisfied with 4 to 6 and I'm happy to say that even though I apply the stain with my finger it doesn't transfer to my work clothing if I happen to adjust my name badge or the bedding which I was worried about (if it does I don't notice or it's a very light spot of pink). For durability, this stain lasts the whole night and if I would let it go I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted into the next afternoon- never had that happen with any commercial blush. I also never had a blush that well made me look like I'm blushing and this Liquid Bloom of Roses does just that, it looks so natural on and yes it also adds a fresh bitten look to my lips (no lipstick I ever tried produced that before). The only negative is this product is drying to my skin and lips but I feel that is a small price to pay and easily remedied when I don't have it on plus that's what lip balm is for. Would I repurchase?: YES (another lifetime repurchase item) 1922 Vegetal Red Rose Liquid Rouge Listed Materials: Carmine, Natural Rose Oil, Organic Rose Water Appearance/Fragrance: Very similar to the 1780-1958 stain but it's brighter in that deep red and can be described as "berry pink" (think freshly squeezed or mashed strawberries). The scent is the same as 1780-1958 formula but it may be a little subdued in ways. Performance/Results: I purchased a sample vial as I loved the red "fresh bitten" look on my lips but wanted it darker, this rouge works and I get my desired look after about 3 coatings. Oddly this stain transfers more when I touch things so I do use caution. Should mention with both stains they last all night even with eating and drinking. Finally, I'm sure to keep a lip balm near with this liquid rouge/lip stain. Would I purchase a bottle?: YES One Note at a Time 1920's Lilies & Lilac Toilet Water This ultra-delicate oil leaves just enough of a lovely spring imprint on my mind and I keep returning to it. I love this one all for different reasons than what I was initially looking for in an oil (I want this bottle for after shaving and to sprinkle on my bed sheets, so into the basket it goes for my birthday or Black Friday). For a perfume to wear throughout the day, it's pretty as a lilac perfume should be but hardly has any longevity (even in my hair I get 2 hours tops) and as much as I love lilies, they upstage the lilac. I have my fingers crossed the upcoming lilac perfume will be exactly what I'm looking for. Bouquet de I'Imperatrice Josephine perfume (Natural Rose Oil, Natural Rosewood Oil, Organic Rose Petals, Natural Jasmine Oil, Natural Sandalwood, Organic Almond Oil and Musk) I only have a sample of this magnificent perfume but soon I will have a bottle as this is a timeless fragrance which transports my imagination far away and I feel like absolute royalty when I wear it. There is a delicate rose that brushes the skin and the jasmine with sandalwood adds a warm romantic complexity to Bouquet de I'Imperatrice Josephine that I haven't experienced in anything within my collection. I appreciate this is by no means a brash rendering of the notes that would usually give me a headache or scream soap to my nose, every note is blended so well creating an elegant softness that I have been searching for and finally found. Jane Austen's Garden perfume (Rose, Lavender, Forest, Orange, Lilac, Rose Geranium, Jasmine, Rosemary and Voilet) Ahh! This is what I could only imagine a real English garden to smell like (velvety roses overhanging a garden wall and woody lavender bordering the walk with geraniums and deep purple violets in the window box) and I will be taking this enchanting oil with me when I travel to Bath and Hampshire someday. This is the type of perfume to wear on those days when you have many responsibilities but for a time you would rather let my mind relax and enjoy the sunshine. Jamie's Passion perfume (No listed notes but it described as: "This lovely light amber perfume oil is uniquely based on an original 18th-century love potion and mixed with the popular scents of the 1940's.") I'm still trying to decipher this oil as I get a waft of lemon thyme of first application then a clean warm amber emerges and amps (or glows) then it fades down to something akin to violets. It lasts about 2 hours on my skin and about 4 hours in my hair. Here is another oil I will be taking with me when I travel. Orange Flower Oil *I can't speak highly enough about the customer service practices at this shop because when I fell hard for the scent in 1772 Orange Blossom cold cream I sent a message to the shop owner to see if I could get a perfume to smell exactly like the jar. Not only could she recommend an oil but she even offered to dilute a specially prepared oil for me and add it to my custom order (thank you so much, Alicia!). Marking down another note I'm completely enamoured with and need more of in my collection. This oil is fantastic for everyday wear (especially in the workplace setting) but I've found I prefer to keep this gem at home and allow this bottle to banish any negative mood (that citrus note is sublime) and revitalize my creativity (wearing it right now as I type away). Bulgarian (Otto) Rose Oil *Here is another oil that was specially recommended by Alicia at LittleBits as I asked if she had a perfume that matched the scent in the Liquid Bloom of Roses, she suggested the Josephine Perfume along with many others including this oil. Overall Bouquet de I'Imperatrice Josephine comes the closest to matching but I still like the Bulgarian (Otto) Rose Oil. When applied it isn't the sharp caustic florals it's actually a dainty rose and reminds me more of petals rather than a full stemmed rose. I am finding that rose oils fade fast on my skin so this is another fragrance I love to brush into my hair (my hair also seems to unlock the hidden spiciness from the roses which I love). I will definitely be wearing this when I attend different events this year. There you have it, my whole current trove of self-care, oils and makeup from LittleBits/LBCC Historical Apothecary. I've had tremendous success overall and I will be heading back to visit this charming shop again soon, I feel like I have reconnected with a lost piece of myself when I use these items and there are still so many other products I want to explore and learn more about.
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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