3 distinct shades and 3 definitive personalities based on 3 fascinating historic women and moods captured in stunning shades of deep roan and pink-blue reds. Absolutely what I have been looking for and I love the vintage packaging ElizaCosmetics presents her recreations in. The formulas are gentle on the lips, deep toned and smell (and taste) wonderful with a smack of cocoa. I can't stop vamping in the mirror and topping it off with a "Boop-boop-a-doop!", haha. Theda- The darkest lady of the trio. This shade was originally a Halloween costume custom purchase last October for my Vampire Flapper idea (RIP that lost night) but one coat and I was completely under her spell, felt transformed and that somber lipstick shade immediately found her way into my makeup casket. It is a true gothic hue of brown-red resembling dried blood and dying roses; perfect recreation of the shades vamps and smokey-eyed silent sirens on the silver screen wore in the earliest days of Old Hollywood. *Inspired by the original Vamp Theda Bara Initially I purchased the nail polish of Theda then had to get the lipstick to match. The formula of the nail polish is impressive lasting several days without chipping and minimal streaking for a deep red-brown colour. Full coverage in about 2 coats but for a richer depth I went for 3 coats. Others commented my fingernails looked like I had dried blood at the tips- perfect! Louise- Slightly more of a lighter hue with say more garnet than maroon in Theda, still dark and mysterious and to be honest the lipstick I grabbed more often through autumn and winter (and even into spring until I was introduced to Marilyn). I never wore such daring shades before trying samples from this little nifty shop and I'm so happy I stepped out of my comfort zone. Being well lily complected to put it nicely (better than saying ghostly pale, haha) I somehow always believed I couldn't wear red lipstick without looking ridiculous or harsh, little did I know it's only the right cast of red that makes the lady. *Inspired by the enigmatic Louise Brooks Marilyn- The newest gal to join my vanity table and one more reason I'm loving to vamp in front of the looking glass these days. This one is a deeper rose pink lipstick that is my personal spring/summer shade (there is a reason this colour is a top-seller). You can never go wrong with anything pink-red I'm finding out this year (wait until I ramble about Progeny from Pariah House Cosmetics coming up; pink is nothing to fear!) *Inspired by the Blonde Bombshell Marilyn Monroe Salome Hair Pomade (scent of Bergamot, Lemon, Orris, Rose, Lavender, Jasmine. creamy Vanilla, Sweet Tonka, Civet, Toffee notes of Opoponax absolute.) In my most recent order I was surprised with a sample of the hair pomade version of Salome and a few twists of strands and pins released later and my softly defined curls waft this powdery musky allure around me that harkens back to the ultimate heyday of glitz and glamour. On me, more creamy lavender is noticed with an underpinning of musky non-gourmand vanilla. Just hypnotic, refined and I love how this formula plays so well with my fine hair that tends to frizz and expand this time of the year. Very impressed. *Inspired by Rita Hayworth Needless to say with all these marvellous self-care, makeup choices I've discovered for myself since January from across the indie realm, I'm ready for what (and whom) may come my way this 2022-2023 Venus Return. So here's a fun little tidbit of information for the day that hardly anyone will tell you- when you lose weight (say nearly 100 pounds), wrinkles and lines appear overnight it seems. Ugh. Just when you begin to accept yourself, and allow your brain to readjust to an unfamiliar world of found confidence you are confronted in the looking glass with a new level and challenge list and the process of being comfortable with your whole being starts all over again (or intensifies). What's a lady to do? Well either roll over and admit defeat and slink away from prying eyes (maybe even hide behind a stylish leather fan like Empress Sisi did for the rest of her life) or seek out something out of the box or rather out in the garden and that's exactly what I did when I stumbled into the realm of botanical beauty and Jade Forest Co. In truth, "stumbled" may not be the correct way to describe how I found myself a year later with my vanity table displaying such smancy jars and pots filled with botanical skin-loving creams but it sure sounds better than blundered. For you see, I do have the stars above to thank for aligning a bit and throwing some luck my way after a turbulent time as I won a little giftaway on social media last fall and was introduced to this incredible hidden gem of a shop. I received several products in a stunning presentation fashion that were camera ready to show off and heralded something beyond the commercial expectations on the shelves, my favourite ended up being the Nymph's Harvest- Autumn Skin Food Face Cream. I fully admit I was a bit scared to try yet another jar of creams (albeit generously free and a gift of luck) as all my life I have battled sensitive skin and painful blemishes but something seemed different and after having such a delightful conversation with the owner about skin sensitivity and her process of harvesting the ingredients straight from her garden and the laborious further process and research that went into every product, I thought "Okay, one more time". That one more time quickly turned into several frantic searches and purchases and one happy lady beaming in the looking glass. Allow me to invite you to this curious garden of pampering pots, creams and fragrances by describing all I tried and end with one jar I will sing from the rooftops about. Are you ready for a transformation? Part I Nymph's Harvest- Autumn Skin Food- Skin Cream On opening the fancy amber pot (it even arrived with an endearing little golden spoon for scooping out the cream!), a collective medley of sweet blueberry, plum juice, apple skins, sage and the natural green spice of fall harvested meadow plants greet the nose. That relaxing and sweet scent stays and plays with the imagination as the thicker cream melts into the skin and natural body heat amplifies the fruit aroma for a few hours. All very charming but above all, here's the question: did I break out or have any skin reaction? Dear fellow indie wanderers, I now own 2 huge jars now, does that answer your question? This Autumn Skin Food has served as the foundation of my collection from Jade Forest Co. and started the much-needed healing of my troubled skin and scarring. 100% recommended. Crowned Flowers Face Cream During several fascinating and enjoyable conversations with the owner (she is such a sweetheart and I can't thank her enough for putting up with all my questions; never be afraid to ask anything, especially at this storefront), the Crowned Flowers Face Cream was one product that was suggested for my most pressing areas of scarring I was beginning to get self-conscious about which was my jawline. Sadly this beauty cream was not my favourite out of the generous suggestions and may work better for someone who has less visible scarring and pitting. The scent was also not my cup of tea as it reminds me of freshly sliced cucumber (thank you late 90s high school locker lingering nightmares and scent aversions/associations). The consistency is more thin and I did notice less puffiness under my eyes and the skin seemed brighter even after 16-hour shifts and 4 hours of broken sleep. So all was not lost with Crowned Flowers and the little pot is completely empty now. Snow Queen Solid Perfume for skin and hair (Gathered Notes: Gardenia, Jasmine, Paperwhite, White Rose, Baltic Amber, Crushed Snow, Leather, Conifer Boughs, Jupiter Berry, White Cedar, Frankincense, Myrrh, Styrax and Labdanum) Opening each fragrance and product on this website is either a lovely rendition of a folkstory or an imagined tale that accompanies the notes captured in each skin or hair creation. The fable of the Snow Queen is shared and gathered with this solid perfume in a palm-sized snap compact as this is regal and commanding with creamy white florals enfolded in various conifers and a soft leathery amber finish. There is also this almost "sparkling" smoky quality with the resins that is quite majestic and seasonal (although now I am sorely regretting not wearing this scent in my curls for the recent Renaissance Festival that sported the theme of Celtic this following week; Snow Queen would have dazzled even in this muggy heat). At the base is the beeswax that warms to the surface as the hours tick on and this perfume lasts 8 hours on my skin which is very impressive for a solid perfume and up to 15 hours in my tousled mane. For those curious, these types of solid perfumes can easily be added to your tresses with taking a small amount and allowing the natural body heat to melt the wax and oils and then lightly massaging that at the ends of your hair. Autumn Harvest Solid Perfume for skin and hair (Gathered Notes: Chamomile, Helichrysum, Sweet Woodruff, Crystallized Maple Sugar, Cognac Soaked Vanilla Beans, Crystallized Birch Syrup, Cherries, Clove, Nutmeg, Cinnamon Bark, Peru Balsam, Beeswax, Goldenrod, Apple, Sage, Artemisia, Rose, Gardenia and Plum) Mmm if you are a blueberry fiend or have been looking for a non-pumpkin fragrance (the sacrilege, haha!) to welcome in the best time of the year, you have to try Autumn Harvest. This is only one of the fragrant offerings Jade Forest Co. has in their solid perfume catalogue listing that is completely unique and a must-try for autumn-tide lovers and seekers. On me, the fresh blueberries that smell still wet in the pail ready for baking and canning fade first along with the apple skins with a grating of nutmeg and clove then I amp the golden rod, creaminess of the white florals and natural sweetness from the maple syrup, vanilla and beeswax base for about 4 hours on my skin and 8 hours in my hair. I wouldn't say this perfume is strictly a gourmand it's more an assortment of the season in the baking dish and outside the kitchen window- think of the breeze of the last rays of summer giving way to autumn. Very lovely! Violet Ether Solid Perfume for skin and hair (Gathered Notes: Violet Leaf Concrete, Orris Root, Sweet Woodruff, Vanilla Beans, Elderflower, Jasmine, Rose and Hyacinth Enfleurages) This perfume is what I imagine Lily Bart from Edith Wharton's classic The House of Mirth wearing as her audience stares in awe at her natural grace on display and her scandalous choice for her tableaux scene of recreating Reynold's Mrs. Lloyd. She would no doubt seek out something soft and natural with an ethereal regal element to it, a diaphanous incandescent dryad. On me, Violet Ether gently drapes me in a dreamy aura with the slightest hint of a hidden aquatic for 2 hours before needing to be reapplied. In my curls, the scent lingers longer, and the sweet beeswax base and vanilla are more noticeable whilst on my skin the violet and green florals are the shining stars of this perfume. Absolutely gorgeous and a rarity for myself. Lilac Snow Whipped Body Butter I was over the moon when I opened my most recent order and saw a very special birthday surprise of a jar of this body butter nestled among the colourful and gilted trappings this shop loves to sprinkle and brighten customers' days with (thank you so much, Jade!). I wish I could take a proper photo of Jade Forest Co's presentation and labelling because it's something to behold and experience! One of the best packaging and gift-giving-ready displays I have seen in the indie world. Matching the glittering arrangement is a product that is fragrant and works as promised. When it comes to Lilac Snow the opening fragrance is quite unique resembling (to my nose), floral mustard. A few seconds later the downy milky florals begin a metamorphosis that creates a convincing lilac aroma under the impression of "cold snow" and forest trees. Overall a lovely aroma with a curious opening but has a calming powdery floral finish in store. The formula is ideal for dry spots such as elbows, and rough heels and invites snuggles during all seasons. Moon Cloud Sleeping Mask And now we come to THE jar that has reigned over my vanity table when it comes to impressive results and one formula that...well quite frankly is one I want to keep a secret (as well as this Indie treasure) as I don't want this cream to sell out all the time and I won't be able hoard more of, haha. Okay, okay I will be kind and share my new skin obsession that being this sleeping mask that comes in this beaming jar topped off with an adorable little cloud charm and a piece of white agate in the shape of a shiny cloud that you use to scoop out the cream! (I've never seen anything like that before; this is why I love indies). Inside is pure fluffy skin magic that smells to me of powdery liquorice and lavender and has been a balm throughout my own personal transformation. Lines are softening (so much so I can wear my hair back off my forehead again), my cheeks and neck have never been this soft, my complexion looks so dewy and each time I put this cream on and wake I can't help but smile and feel the confidence building as my true self is shining through now. A new chapter has truly begun and I'm ready to step out. This jar is worth every penny and a life-time repurchase for me. One Note At A Time: Cue the creepy piano music because it's GoOsEbUmPs/Halloween 2021 Sixteen924/2/2022
Sweet nostalgia is like the ultimate treat for us Cancer Suns so when I saw Sixteen92's first teaser for this collection I knew it would be coming home and I would be digging out an old loved friend (and even found a BookIt certificate I was using as a bookmark; I wonder if I can still cash it in?). Yes, I know I'm showing my age but there is something about this time of the year and the way indie artists capture a little lost part of yourself that you are dying to reconnect with that gets me every time. So without further ado, it's GoOsEbUmPsss.... Monster Blood (Plastic Candy Pails, Damp Concrete, Licorice Whips, Mounds of Sticky Marshmallow, Smouldering Firewood) Can we first appreciate the dead-on artwork for the notecard for this collection and the clever listed notes that promises one unique story with a twist of seasonal whimsy? Still years after stepping into the indie realm I continue to be blown away as indie perfumers are able to bottle this beautiful element and the very reaches of the imagination. Saying that I shouldn't be shocked how accurate the '80s-'90s candy pail scent is right down to the powdery plastic but I sure am and get instant goosebumps (HA!). That nostalgic aroma melds so well with the rained over concrete, liquorice and Sixteen92's infamous marshmallow accord. In a way, Monster Blood reminds me of The Sisters: Mary and could be a sibling scent with both having a hidden sandalwood heart surrounded by Halloween candy, Monster Blood seems however to be more of an atmospheric versus a homage to a playful but sinister personality. I can easily envision a simpler time filled with colourful Lisa Frank stickers, erasers shaped like foodstuffs and little me skipping down to the scholastic book fair with a pumpkin pail swinging on my arm ready to spend a whopping $10 and feeling like I am on top of the world and life couldn't get any better or more fragrant. One Day At Horrorland (Dark Bromine Water, Clattering Wooden Boats, Misty Dry Ice, Mossy Rocks, Muffled Din from the Midway, A Distant Screeeeeam) Oh, the mid-90's so many regretful events and haunting images occurred like a Dracula Jeff Goldblum in a video game...yes that happened and you are welcome if you go look it up or relive it in all its marvellous awkwardness. When comparing which version of Horrorland One Day At Horrorland lands me in, it's the zany and at times cringey video game (Goosebumps: Escape from Horrorland) as this is a realistic underwater cave with bouncing wooden coffin boats and a menacing though dashing vampire after you (don't look at me that way it was another time and those of us in the Pluto in Scorpio generation were already swooning over Louis from Interview with a Vampire; it was the start of the end, haha). If you missed those confusing years, you may recognize the distinct cold bromine water and dry ice effect from different rides at Disney World or Universal Studios. It's pretty impressive and great for sleep and even l layering with different oils for an added entertaining surprise. Welcome to Camp Nightmare (Campfire S'mores, Overgrown Brambles, Cold Autumn Air, Toasted Pumpkin, Earthy Musks) Mmhm so I don't know if it's the brambles or earthy musks but Welcome to Camp Nightmare takes me to a not so child-friendly place as I can't but think of a storyline of someone sneaking off with a summer crush after enjoying sticky smores and having a bit of fun unawares a masked killer is watching from behind the thick pine branches and swirling campfire smoke. There is something masculine and scandalous in this oil I certainly wasn't expecting and I think we have crossed into the Fear Street series versus Goosebumps with Welcome to Camp Nightmare, haha. Sixteen92 Leave it to Sixteen92 to take us on an otherworldly scent journey across the haunting nightmares from stories and eras of the past that still inspire and cause some rapid prayer motions when mentioned in hushed whispers. Banshee (Frozen Honeycomb, Wispy Fog, Sheer Linen, Spectral Violet, Moonflower, Shattered Glass) The eerie fragrance of a moonlit gauzy torn shroud with a hundred night-blooming florals and final offerings lingering in the folds billowing in the cold autumn winds. Be it fae or malevolent spirit screeching out the end of a mortal's life. Banshee is lovely and sings its own tale. I'm happy my curiosity won out and I grabbed this beauty. The violets resemble those from my beloved Mina Harker and I Believe in Mary Worth and the cold honey with a hint of something unsettling brings to mind Telepathy and Ligeia whilst the realistic linen is a stellar combination of convincing textile accords of The Romance of Certain Old Clothes and Mein Herr Marquis. With all of these threads, Banshee is by the end of the night a complex tapestry of several past blends that creates one hauntingly beautiful perfume that you need not fear. Onryō (Dry Cedar Heartwood, Warm Sandalwood, Plum Wine, White Birch, Pale Vanilla, Delicate Pine Needle, Grey Ash) Familiar yet exotic. This blend opens with an offering of rich plum wine sprinkled with fallen dead pine needles from the surrounding dark forest that slowly reveals its warm woody heart of a trio of snapped pine branches, birch and cedar. The creamy sandalwood with non-gourmand vanilla and realistic papery ash provides the ending to this unsettling ode to a vengeful spirit and curious cold smelling atmospheric. Onryō is a must if you love the seductive qualities of plum wine and sandalwood or desire an early winter fragrance with a chilling secret waiting to be told. Revenant (Autumnal Apples, Saffron Crocus, Crisp Golden Leaves, Unripe Pumpkin, Dusty Hay Bales, Honey Bourbon) Just as the ever-popular fakeout scene in horror films where the hapless victim encounters a figure that is turned away from them that appears to be in distress and they slowly reach out to help (or curiosity gets the best of them) to only realize it's too late for any escape, you would be forgiven and may even let your guard down when thinking the listed notes of Revenant to only hold an unsuspecting harmless gourmand. It's however so much more when it turns around and reveals a seductive streak with a bite! On opening, the mashed apples verging on decaying are dominant with a splash of smokey bourbon, hint of woody cinnamon and dusty hay. Revenant is so sweet but deceiving and as the notes morph on the drydown more earthy elements and a distinct magnetic masculine quality comes forward that brings to mind a scene of a rendezvous at midnight in a foggy apple orchard with your now undead zombie beau, you can't help but lean in closer as he only wants a comforting cuddle and maybe one more nibble. Strigoi (Freshly Exhumed Funerary Boxes, A Circle of Salt, Cold Iron Stake, Heavy Stone, Stinging Rain, Blood, Fire) Speaking of a seductive fragrance with a bite we have the brother blend to Lycanthrope and where the latter is a sojourn into an ancient forest with protective eyes watching your every step as you brush by towering trees and moss-covered boulders during a powerful lightning storm, Strigoi patiently waits and is after much more and has such sinister plans in-store as you leave the guarded forest and enter the point of no return. On me, the salt and iron and realistic petrichor dominant with a wisp of ashed smoke after the initial opening of cedar and pine wood gives way to what lays underneath. As you can expect from a perfume inspired by the ultimate legend draped in dark mystique and forbidden allure, Strigoi conjures such visions to appear and steals the ever innocent heart and takes you away in imagination or to vivid dreams. Wraith (Luminous Amber, Divinatory Tea Leaves, Candle Wax, Pomegranate, Black Myrrh, Howling Wind, Otherworldly Musks) To finish up this scented tour of the undead of the world and times is a surprise favourite out of the collection. Tea is such a finicky note with my skin chemistry and when I find a success, it's an immediate recommendation and ramble in store. Wraith ticks all the boxes and with the addition of a rarely ever seen pomegranate note that adds a delicate tartness and sweetness to the surrounding notes of photorealistic candle smoke and an impression of cold winds, it ends as a lovely homage to the semblance of the former plane. Out of all perfumes in this collection Wraith is the most wearable in the professional setting, not having such a noticeable throw as Banshee or Onryo; staying close creating the perfect ghostly aura. Sixteen92 BeeWitched (A Dirty sexy honeyed rose) *pheromone infused Magickal Meaning of Notes: Rose- Self confidence, strong aphrodisiac properties, attracts affection & love, fertility, divination/clairvoyance. Amber- Fertility, creativity, love, luck, riches. Honey & Bee Pollen- Enticing, seductive; use to bewitch a straying or hesitant lover. Happiness, fulfilment. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness and riches. Lust inducing, wishes granted. Musk- Self-confidence and strength, sexual attachment, heightens passions and arousal This scent potion starts out so innocent and soft with a lovely fruit-laced crystallized rose that stays close to the skin then it transforms with the rising heat of your body in an hours time to an empowering (and hungry) siren-like entity (complete with a mysterious aquatic element) that lays claim to all who catch a single wisp. This fragrant beacon of beauty is NOT safe for the mundane work setting despite what you think you discern in the vial, it calls for a night of romance, passion and something put in the lines of Pre-Raphaelite poetry and canvas! BeeWitched is the perfect name for this perfume! *Full disclosure this fragrance was a custom request that I was planning to wear to the Ren Festival (the listed notes harken back to researched love philtres used in that era) last October but sadly it wasn't ready in time so I didn't get to test it out on a larger audience but I did wear it to work (accidentally once... okay three times, haha) and notice a buzz of attention and looks every time, haha. It has the effect I was definitely looking for and highly recommend for a confidence boost. Creme Cake (Sweet cream-filled oatmeal cookies) *NOTE infused with pheromones Magickal Meaning of Notes: Oats- Prosperity, abundance, sustenance, money spells. Milk/Butter/Cream- Nurturing, soothing, eases troubled relationships. Goddess energy. Coconut Cream- Chastity, protection, purification, receptivity. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness and riches. Lust inducing, wishes granted. Cinnamon and Cassia Bark- Male sexual stimulation, passion, lust, healing, protection, energy, creativity, psychic powers. Used in ancient mummification rituals. Amber- Fertility, creativity, love, luck, riches. *plays record of "Be My Baby" by The Ronettes* A comforting warm hug of nostalgia wrapped in fluffy sweet cream and finished with vintage powdery amber. The opening of an iconic soft cookie recipe of a Little Debbie's dessert is captured perfectly with the notes of brown sugar, oats and a swirl of cinnamon, tempting those gathered around with a slight amplified effect and throw. Several minutes later the signature cream with a kiss of toasted coconut we remember waiting in our lunch boxes, reveals another delicious facet on the skin and in my curls before finally turning over to gentle amber that sees me out the door after 12 hours. Creme Cake has all the right playful ingredients equaling a perfect perfume to create smiles and treasured future memories. Infusion 2021 (A redder-than-red blend of black raspberry, creme de cassis, cherrywood and pomegranate, with a base of vanilla and three varieties of musk, including smokey Indian red musk attar) *NOT infused with pheromones Magickal Meaning of Notes: Raspberry- Love inducing, aids in pregnancy discomforts, protection. Stamina, vigor. Black Currant- Aids success in love affairs, and a magical representation of blood. Cherry Wood- Love and lust spells, divination, connection to the land of the departed. Pomegranate- Divination, luck, wishes granted, wealth, fertility. Musk- Self confidence and strength, sexual attraction, heightens passions and arousal. Vanilla- Aphrodisiac, inspires happiness, playfulness, sexual arousal, lust, vitalizing. Another morpher and clever deceiver. When first applied "candy vampire" springs to mind with the sweetened raspberry and tart pomegranate then as your body heat rises and entangles with Infusion, something unexplained happens and it completely transforms to something dark and wonderfully mysterious. A must try if you love the power of red musks. Love Potion® Magickal Perfumerie Bongo Poppy Cake (Delicious, lemon poppy seed cake, drowned in an unhealthy dose of lightly spiced cream cheese icing dripping all over it) Akin to cutting out a thick slice of moist lemon cake with a spread of cream cheese icing and taking that first heavenly sniff before devouring all in sight. The lemon is perfectly balanced with the vanilla cake (with a hint of cardamom and additional grated spice) and I get about 5 hours of waltzing about with uninterrupted baking divinity before it fades to a faint lemon peel with sweet cream cheese and a hidden marshmallow scent. I also own Bongo Poppy Cake in the hair detangler and I notice very little in scent difference, they both smell luscious although the hair detangler lasts a full day on me and I enjoy imagining I am swanning about with a tower of lemon cake balanced in my curled bouffant for the night. Lemon Curd and Coconut Cream (Lemon curd and coconut cream with graham crust) Being a recent convert to the taste of toasted coconut in both culinary and fragrance forms, I must say, I completely understand the myriad of positive reviews on this perfume and I want to gnaw my wrists, haha. This is the real deal of realistic dessert fragrances and out of all the oils I show off at work, Lemon Curd and Coconut Cream is a standout winner every time as I watch with amusement as coworkers with twirling eyes desperately seek out a Tupperware Container of lemon and coconut cream piet throughout the night and ask "Who brought in dessert and is hiding it?" every time they walk past my desk after midnight, haha. Each note is perfectly balanced and hits the nose creating the ultimate compliment of making me want to bake up a storm on a sunny spring morning with a newfound ingredient. For longevity, this goes on to baffle and tantalize the hungry masses for 15 hours with a huge throw reaching across several depts. Peches Melba (Juicy ripe peaches with a teeny squeeze of lemon, and fresh raspberry topped vanilla bean ice cream) One of my favourite novels mentions a Peche Melba dessert and this perfume captures that scene beautifully with exquisite realistic cold peaches, sweet raspberries and an addictive vanilla bean ice cream base served in an crystal dish or rather with every wave of the wrist. It's a special immersive experience that I can enjoy anytime and think of beloved characters with dainty spoon poised to indulge in such a lovely ritzy choice from the menu. Perfect for spring weather and day dreaming. Lilac and Hyacinths (Scent Description: Bloom open your day with this beautiful & fresh scent of Lilacs and Hyacinths) Exactly as it says on the tin, it's like covering yourself in a lavish spread of lilac and hyacinth blooms! The scent is heavier in the perfume and somehow delicate in the dusting powder form but very noticeable and gorgeous. Still one of my top picks for a fresh from the garden lilac and hyacinth marriage in a bottle. I hope it returns this year so I can stock up on well everything I can in this heavenly fragrance. Longevity varies with a heavy workout it fades at 6 hours and if I am just swanning about 10 hours. Free Sample: Lychee Grapefruit and Rose (the complete notes still remain an elusive mystery even a year later) To me, this perfume presents as a stunning seductive enigma to the nose and the senses with an opening of tart sparkling summertime fruits that quickly transitions to a jammy rose nectar with an accompaniment of "dirty" hidden tuberose and a dry down of sandalwood, amber, oud and a drop of honey. It's an olfactory masterpiece that surprises and delights you every time it is worn and allows the wearer to unleash their inner prowl and Summertime Lilith. Lychee Grapefruit and Rose makes me want to dramatically flop back on a leopard print devan wearing nothing but a smile and huff my wrists and curls while being painted. It's THAT type of perfume. This is how I remember the summer of 2021. Brava! *As soon as the full sized was available I purchased a full bottle. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean/Mooscents Marshmallow (Marshmallow) Exactly as it says on the tin, this is comforting sugary pillows that morph to a realistic toasted finish; excellent for sleep and layering with other oils. Longevity is about 4 to 6 hours with a noticeable throw that catches the attention of those with a discerning sweet tooth. Daffodil (This fragrance accord is designed to smell of Daffodils- reminiscent of jasmine, geranium, and honeysuckle with hints of vanilla and greenery) Close your eyes and picture the perfect spring morning. The robins and starlings are merrily chirping and chortling whilst the rhythmic coos of mourning doves completes a dawn symphony. You can feel the warm sunshine touch your cheeks and the light creates an enveloping impression of bright golds. You are facing a garden of memories and the distinct aroma of little star-shaped jasmine beckon you to come closer and inhale deeply (no muddling associations with soap will disrupt this bucolic scene, I promise) it's such a lovely bouquet orbiting dew-kissed daffodils. Now open your eyes, you are wearing a rarity in the perfume world- a true daffodil fragrance! Bravo, Redwood Alchemy! This is such an uplifting and beautifully intoxicating oil. A White Whale has been found! Labdanum (no notes listed) A single note of dark resins that curiously fizz and bubble on application then dry down to a woody almost boozy amber finish. Another excellent oil for layering and experimenting with other notes. Call Girl (Tobacco, Skin Musk, Roses) Roses can come in many forms from soapy to downright slinky and scandalous and if you are looking for the latter, you have to get ahold of Call Girl because this is an oh so naughty but refined tobacco and rose fragrance. I definitely smell Bulgarian Roses and there is something deeper underneath adding another overlay of the rose variety and true to the description on the website I am getting the unmistakable smudge of expensive lipstick or creamy wax violets (however you wish to interpret them). I know this is supposed to tell the scent story of a night encounter in a seedy motel but I can't help but think of a classy well sought after mistress in the 19th-century Austrian or Russian court. It's a bit exotic in ways with the rose petals and the stately tobacco combined with the kiss of violet and silky skin musk elevates this call girl to dame d'honneur! Bravo Redwood! Redwood Alchemy Say the words "peanut butter, spice, marshmallow, lilac, pomegranate and frankincense" all in the same breath and I'll show you my pocketbook, haha. Astrid Perfumes (formerly Blooddrop) has been on my radar for years and I took a little gamble with reaching for 2 vials from different collections from a trusted decanter (Ajevie). At the end of the night, I had one beautifully wicked find and one that will be surrendered to a whipped soap treatment, but I'm jumping ahead of myself. These were my thoughts after a LONG winter's nap for both of these vials. Peanut Butter Pony (Peanut butter cookie accord, marshmallow, and cinnamon sugar buttercream) So many promises and hopes were laid on this one mini dram purchase and once applied and settled, I get a delightful cinnamon buttercream aroma with the crumbs of a leftover Peanut Butter cookie, it leaves me wanting more and thinking of the cookies of Christmases Past. It's gentle (too much so) and delicious but nothing to write home about to be honest. When it comes to the anticipated marshmallow, it is evident and I can add my (off key) voice to the choir about Astrid Perfume's infamous Marshmallow accord, it's impressive and realistic but again I'm hungry for more of it. The search continues for my dream peanut butter cookie fragrance that lasts and Peanut Butter Pony will be trotting off to a whipped soap/deep conditioning treatment one of these nights so my curls can carry a waft of wintertime delights. The Longest Night (Shimmering plum, lilac blossom accord, velvety black amber, sanguine pomegranate, and frankincense.) Mmmhm, this is the Queen of the Underworld on a date night with her King (or thrall)! He's under her power and oh how beautifully wicked she looks and can be in a spangled mantle of dark purple and black, her eyes glow, snap and flash in the flames pulling in her desired. The world above them sleeps in a torrent of ice and dreams of spring but in the cold darkness they reign and toss petals into the river and watch as the deep endless waters drown and consume. This is a gorgeous marriage of forbidden and lore-laced fruits, shimmering resins and the ghost of lilac blossoms. It somehow crackles and yet deepens with every previous note creating a dark romance and vision I never want to escape. Needless to say a full bottle of The Longest Night will be joining a certain red roped-off corner of my collection someday. Astrid Perfume What do you get delivered to your door when you cross captivating pumpkins, spice, dark fruits and Christmas cookies with much-needed self-care practices (and a bit of an obsession)? Why the largest indie haul to date (and box on my breezeway) from MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean of course! Here is my trove of Halloween/Yule 2021 and my thoughts (buckle up buttercups, this one is a long overdue one!). -Can we just stop and marvel at the incredible themed artwork that accompanies this indie shop's creations and the time and attention that goes into each parcel. It's like unboxing an exquisite layered cake every time I order. Spray-in Hair Detangler I'll open this rambling long-overdue review by first commenting on MoonaLisa's Hair Detangler formula which is something my vanity table will never be seen without. It's not only a compulsion anymore but an absolute necessity to stock up with as many bottles of these hair-loving elixirs as I can afford every season and then hoard them away to treat myself to a unique blend every morning and night. With my past waist-length mane, I run through a generous sized bottle about every odd month and a half and I truly receive my full money's worth with these products (my hair has never looked or felt this healthy and I can't stop touching my soft manageable hair now). The longevity of the fragrances varies between each blend, however, I have discovered citrus and spice based bottles can last days in my hair. I know I keep saying this every post when it comes to MoonaLisa but it's the truth: Where has this product been all my life? S'mores & Hot Cocoa (Classic marshmallow, buttery graham crackers and rich chocolate paired with steaming hot cocoa) I had to treat my locks to the holy grail of hot cocoa fragrances I have found in the indie realm and just as with the perfume (and dusting powder and bath brew) it's magnificent with a warm rich depth of realistic chocolate, buttery graham crackers and fluffy marshmallows that become melted lumps of nostalgia and pure bliss with every gust of cold wind. Absolutely a recommendation for those of us with an incurable sweet tooth and anyone desiring to revisit to happier days of your youth. Where's My Pie (Scented over the top with everything by the kitchen sink! Buttery flaky pie crust, cinnamon, pumpkin, carrot, caramel, clove, nutmeg, whipped cream and pecan to just name a few) As an avid baker, I can attest this smells like a spread of several mouth-watering prepared pies and nutty delicacies with even a crusty buttery bread pudding rolled on the side. It may all sound tooth-achingly sweet but it's a brilliantly balanced blend and is a comforting mashup of autumnal, winter and even early spring pastries with a slice of cream cheese topped carrot cake peeking out. When it comes to a comparison between the perfume oil versus the hair detangler, more butter and caramel are pronounced on my skin whilst spice and whipped cream are wonderfully entangled in my curls. Another instant favourite and repurchase. Whole (Sweet Orange, Neroli (Orange Blossom) & Petitgrain. Warming, soothing and refreshing to the spirit. This is a very special blend using every part of the orange tree: the leaves, fruit, rind and twig, helping you feel whole again.) 99% of this order were repurchases or doubling up on the detanglers or dusting powders from the perfume samples I had the amazing opportunity to try. Whole blew me away in 2019 and I had to get more of this citrus spiced meditative fragrance as I found it helped me calm down after particularly harsh nights and at the same time channelled 18th-Century French Nobility and I felt a centred diamond at my vanity brushing this scent into my curls. It's still magic, lasts days in my hair and I'm very particular about citrus scents so for Whole to be a repurchase speaks volumes in my book. Winter Porridge with Apple Strudel (Hot buttery oats with a slightly spiced baked apple strudel with a heart of warming goodness.) Another note I'm a bit finicky about is apple and this bottle was a last minute addition to my basket as I found purchasing the detanglers is the ideal way for me to try out unfamiliar blends for myself (even if the scents aren't perfect matches for my nose, they are used up to the last drop). Winter Porridge with Apple Strudel was a lovely surprise and I fell quite hard for the realistic aroma of oats swirled/spiced apples accompanying me through my work shifts during fall into winter. Very comforting and homey and I want Apple Brown Betty now to compare. Mother's Milk (Warming and comforting Almond milk with a touch of honey and oats) Sweet and creamy but not a favourite oddly. It's a cold day when I'm not making embarrassing noises when I spray my hair and brush out my mane with a detangler from Moona and this one was decent but wasn't for me (I think my hair just overbalanced the almond to the other delicious notes). I still used up every drop and found a perfect match instead with Dicken's Faire when it came to almonds. Jingle Jelly Donuts (The irresistible scent of sugary fried dough, sweet vanilla and gobs of oozing strawberry jam) For the life of me, I can't recall what came first the research about doughnuts and scents men find attractive and addictive OR the "Behind the Gates" opportunity to sample the perfume oil format of this bottle first? Well in any case this one is delectable with homemade strawberry jam inside a shell of dough and drizzled in warm vanilla glaze with a sprinkle of powdered sugar. No guilt, no calories just an addictive series of ingredients that is hard to stop spritzing and slathering. The vanilla glaze is more prominent in my curls with the dark strawberry jam and a hint of pine boughs whilst in the perfume my skin amps the powdered sugared dough with the photo-realistic jam as a middle note. No matter where I huff, I'm in love. I shall report back if that study about scents men are attracted to is just hyped bogus or not (or should I say, "dough"not, haha). Dicken's Faire (A reformulation of Moona's favourite place in the world to be this time of the year! The mouth-watering scent of sugared roasting almonds, vanilla and spice you can smell throughout the entire grounds!) After the miss with Mother's Milk, I admit I was a bit gun shy to open Dicken's Faire then, of course, it only took one spritz and I was immediately regretting not using it earlier or donning it for special events that would have been perfect to match the delicious atmosphere and mood Dicken's Faire supplies. It's a divine balance of creamy buttery spice, roasted almonds, vanilla and honey that lasts days in my hair and the following year I went back for seconds and thirds are on the list in the form of the perfume bottle joining my collection in 2022. If you are a fellow little spice whore, Dicken's Faire is a must to try! Cinnamon Blackberry Crunch (A delicious blend of cinnamon sugared blackberries topping an irresistible confectionery crunch!) This was one of the first blends I ever tried from this enchanting indie shop and years later it's still sublime! It's buttery, toothsome fruit with spice sprinkled on top and even has realistic crunchy crumbles and a squeeze of lemon to top it off. Exactly as it says on the tin and you can only imagine the embarrassing noises I make when my locks lift and trap the intoxicating spice and dark fruit from this bottle, haha. Iced Gingerbread (Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) Speaking of making awkward loud noises of happiness, we have arrived to another holy grail and repurchase for life for me. In whatever format, THIS is the gingerbread fragrance of my dreams and is the ideal gingerbread scent sealed in a bottle along with a whiff of iced animal crackers. In my hair, the heavenly spice and vanilla intertwine my senses and I could flop back and huff my locks whilst tapping my red kitten heels to the tune of "Santa Baby" that plays in the background of my brain when I spritz or slather this spiced confection. I can't recommend Iced Gingerbread enough. Nonna's Christmas Cookies (A tribute to KC's (Mooman) Sicilian Great-Grandmother. Made just like KC's Nonna would make her special cookies every year! A little of this and a little of that). To round out this scrumptious cookie jar collection of scents for my crown I doubled up on Nonna's Christmas Cookies which to my nose is fresh oatmeal cookies from the oven drizzled in white chocolate, a hint of warm spice and realistic milky creaminess that amplifies in my hair. Absolutely magnificent in every way and goes on to delight and entice those around me for 2 days before fading completely. Dusting Powders I said it once and I'll say it again, one of my true guilty pleasures in life is dusting powders and happily rolling around like a chinchilla in a fragrant dust bath of gourmands and florals. It's one of the ultimate self-pampering gifts one can buy for oneself and MoonaLisa's formula still reigns as the best I have found and tried for myself. The formula never cakes or clumps and the aromas last well into the next day and I love how they peek out of my clothes in a little delectable wafts when I need them the most. Cinnamon Blackberry Crunch (A delicious blend of cinnamon sugared blackberries topping an irresistible confectionery crunch!) *see above, no difference between the hair detangler, argan oil, perfume and dusting powder formats. All toothsome and addictive. The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) My darling, my love, my perfect marriage of spiced pumpkin and lavender; you are home! Now curiously on my skin with the perfume, bath brew and dusting powder the hidden apples, smoke and white chocolate are noticeable versus in the detangler and argan oil which is more creamy spiced pumpkin and lavender with the slightest hint of sweet bonfire smoke. The Rumpkin! still holds so many bewitching secrets and surprises and I can't ramble about this scent potion enough. Snow Ice (Fond memories Moona has when a child at camp during the Nevada snows making natural "ice cream" from ice cold snow, condensed milk, sugar and vanilla extract. This scent is reminiscent of that: sweet crystallized vanilla sugar and cream) Whether on my skin or in my hair this one is a true masterpiece of a gourmand as it's dreamy but never childish or cloying. Snow Ice finishes off any look for the night and I love I leave the tiniest bit of a crystallized vanilla trail in my wake with this lovely realistic creamy vanilla blend. In the dusting powder, this one is pure bliss when it reacts with my heated skin and I can smell it through a thick fuzzy sweater. It's akin to a sweet hug. Eclipse (A full on powdery musky amber. Full bodied, earthy, sweet and sensuous. Represents sensuality) Eclipse was a new olfactory experiment for myself and remains a bit of a mystery. I know I smell jasmine, rose and patchouli and of course amber musk but there is something else in this esoteric love potion of a scent that catches my attention at different times of wear. It really does make you feel like dancing out in the moonlight to a Fleetwood Mac or Lana Del Rey song. My canister is nearly empty after others caught a whiff and demanded I share, haha. I guess I need to repurchase in 2022. Nonna's Christmas Cookies (A tribute to KC's (Mooman) Sicilian Great-Grandmother. Made just like KC's Nonna would make her special cookies every year! A little of this and a little of that). *see above, no difference between the hair detangler, hair conditioner, perfume and dusting powder formats. All tempt just one bite or lick. Argan Oil Hair Rescue I can't have or praise the detangler without mentioning the argan oil formula MoonaLisa offers because they are a match made in hair heaven and these products have worked absolute magic on my tresses (I'm still getting used to all the compliments I receive and being told I have "fairytale hair" *blushes*). I have never had such shiny healthy-looking hair. The argan oil I use after I have brushed out my mane with the aid of the detangler then I add a dime-size amount of argan oil in different scents to the ends of my hair. If I have any excess left I place that in the back of my head. I run thru a bottle about every 3 months and they are worth every penny. Cinnamon Blackberry Crunch (A delicious blend of cinnamon sugared blackberries topping an irresistible confectionery crunch!) *see above, no difference between the hair detangler, argan oil, perfume and dusting powder formats. All toothsome and addictive. Hair Conditioner Short and sweet- a fabulous formula that tackles my thick hair with hardly an end tangle and only gifts me with softness, shine and a bonus of added scent to my locks. The bottle that keeps on giving, haha! Iced Gingerbread (Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) This was my first bottle of the hair conditioner but certainly not my last as I found it was another fantastic way to try out fragrances in the seasonal listing for a lower price and now I have a long pretty row of bottles for every mood and craving. For those curious, the Hair Conditioner formula is thick and creamy and serves well for a deep conditioning treatment and the scents last out of the tub. One more lifelong repurchase option for myself to ramble about. Extras/Gifts Cranberry Spiced Shortbread Hair Detangler (Juicy ripe Cranberries ready to burst with a subtle touch of Christmas spices topping warm and buttery shortbread cookies.) A fellow avid gourmand collector's miss became my treasure as I was gifted Cranberry Spiced Shortbread (thank you so much again, Samantha!) and I ended up adoring it so much I went back for my own cobalt blue bottle in 2021. Now oddly the perfume version of Cranberry Spiced Shortbread morphed unexpectedly on me and even though I enjoyed the realistic sogginess of the almost bubbly cranberry and buttery shortbread, the detangler is all crackle and realistic fizz of a cranberry drink with more creamy woody spice that lasts a full 3 days in my hair. An instant uplifting and giggle-worthy fragrance. Hygge Potion Lotion (The Danish word, pronounced "hoo-ga", is usually translated into English as "coziness". Picture sitting by a fireplace wearing your softest cozy slipper-socks, surrounded by the warm glow of candles, soft music playing, drinking mulled wine and hot coffees while eating hot Danish pastries! That is Hygge! Notes include: Gentely spiced wine and coffees, wafting of warm Beeswax with subtle smokiness with a background of Danish pastry!) Another rare miss for another that turned in a new jewel for my morning sleep routine. The lotion is all lovely vanilla cheese danish one me with a backing of equally realistic beeswax candles and the perfume version is a whole storybook scene of warmth, peace and security with familiar black coffee opening then gently giving way to the under notes. The scent of the lotion lingers for 10 hours and sees me out the door for the night after a long cold day's sleep hibernated under a mountain of fuzzy blankets. Hygge just completes the scene. Spread The Love Massage Bar in Chocolate Espresso Torte *free self-pampering treat with purchase Mmmm, can I eat this?! It's soap you say? Well, you could have fooled me as it smells like the most decadent dessert with layers of dark chocolate and expensive coffee. If I can restrain myself long enough to not lick the bar or my skin I notice the buttery richness of the little heart-shaped bar (nice touch) and how my skin especially along my neck loves the feeling of the little nubs. I would purchase a full-sized bar in a heartbeat and I have Chocolate Espresso Torte on my wishlist to grab in some bath product in 2022. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean Reviews composed in November 2020 to January 2021 ✴The longer the following perfumes were patiently aged, the more undernote nuances reveal themselves with every wear. Longevity: Shortest (XIII and Bad Apple at 2 and nearly 4 hours) Longest (Ambrille and Sacred Vanille at 14+ hours) One Note At A Time: Bespoke/Custom Fragrance At the beginning of October 2020 I submitted the idea of a bottled quote from one of my favourite books with the specific notes of French Vanilla, Vintage-styled Amber and Marshmallow. The owner showed sincere enthusiasm over my custom's concept and shared his extensive knowledge of different subjects when he suggested additions to my blend with Labdanum and White Musk. He then even went up and above that and obtained a very special component (pheromones) for the perfect final touch when I requested this last minute submission. May I present Ambrille! She's finally home and is so good she made it into general catalogue. From start to finish this was an experience I highly recommend if you have been searching in vain for a specific blend to add to your collection or one special fragrance to drape yourself in. Ambrille (Notes: French Vanilla, Marshmallow, Labdanum, White Musk) This blend dances a fine line between gourmand and naughty vintage with the initial opening of creamy french vanilla along with sweet marshmallow then warms up with the vintage amber and slight caramelly "pop" of labdanum resin. The final notes that leave me 15 hours later are intoxicating white musk and the lingering sweetness of the vanilla and marshmallow. It matches the iconic quote from Rebecca: "I wish I were a woman of 36, dressed in black satin with a string of pearls." and can be worn like a comforting elegant scarf or expensive soft sweater throughout the colder months; which is all exactly what I wanted. ❇the version of Ambrille available on the site does not contain any frisky pheromones. Hand Sanitizer in Harvest Spice (Simmered autumn fruit blends with warm nutmeg and clove spiked with crisp afterthoughts of ginger and cinnamon in the familiar taste of fall) This lux hand sanitizer comes in a rather large 2oz bottle that has stood up well in my handbag and has not broken open accidentally in the months it has been knocking around and accompanying to and from normal every day. The formula contains the required 70% alcohol and it does the job with a vegetal scent with rich autumnal earth and warm comforting spice along with a kiss of fruit (other than pumpkin) that lasts up to 3 hours and is addictive to sneak huffs of when no one is looking. Harvest Spice isn't your average pumpkin aroma and I hope it returns in the the perfume version because it is a fragrance I need to own. I would purchase this lux hand sanitizer again but also would love this in Marshmallow. ✴When I received my finished Custom Fragrance in November all decked out in gift box, a surprise sample was found nestled in the box and I fell hard. Call Girl (Notes: Tobacco, Skin Musk, Roses) Roses can come in many forms from soapy to downright slinky and scandalous and if you are looking for the latter, you have to get ahold of Call Girl because this is an oh so naughty but refined tobacco and rose fragrance. I definitely smell Bulgarian Roses and there is something deeper underneath adding another layer of the rose variety and true to the description on the website I am getting the unmistakable smudge of expensive lipstick or creamy wax violets (however you wish to interpret them). I know this is supposed to tell the scent story of a night encounter in a seedy motel but I can't help but think of a classy well sought after mistress in the 19th-century Austrian or Russian court. It's a bit exotic in ways with the rose petals and the stately tobacco combined with the kiss of violet and silky skin musk elevates this call girl to dame d'honneur! Bravo Redwood! My second order was a bunch of samples that had intrigued me for weeks. Sacred Vanille (Notes: Vanilla, Wood, Copal, Gardenia, Amber, Musk & Spice) It remains a mystery if the copal or the noticeable textural wood note (or the combination) is a particular scent sticking out from my skin that I'm unsure about. The spice and amber is warm and seductive with the sweet butteriness of the gardenia and vanilla. My skin can be so cruel at times as that particular scent I mentioned amplifies and drowns out the lovely gardenia, vanilla and spice. I'm marking Sacred Vanille down for a whipped soap treatment in the coming weeks. Candy Cane layering note This hits the sweet and sentimental spot for me as a beloved family member always smelled of peppermint and when she was away and I was upset, I would sit in a corner and sniff the candies she had secretly stuffed my pockets with. This is refreshing and yet somehow creamy and soft. Candy Cane also has a positive effect on when my stomach is flipping knots at a certain time of the month as after sitting down and smelling Candy Cane for several minutes, I feel so much better. The power of comforting peppermint, it still works even all these years later for me. Krampus (Notes: Mint, Musk, Smoke, Clove & Pepper) All the notes are there in a musky oily and somehow bracing way. I get the peppermint with the dark elements underneath and I know it's not listed but I smell a hint of non-obnoxious black shiny leather hiding in the background with the clove. Krampus is unique with the spice and musk yet completely wearable for every day adding something unfamiliar and sinister. A definite keeper. Elysia (Notes: Notes: Lily of the Valley, Salt, Wood, Musk) This is such a lovely scent for work as it's ethereal and feminine with a twist of poetic floral sweetness and is one of those your skin but better types of perfumes to recommend. This fragrance brings to mind the imagined scent of the dust from trembling butterfly wings. I don't think I have any other lily of the valley perfume that is so soft yet enchanting in my collection. XIII (Description: An unlucky blend of bergamot, tangerine, and lemon. Creaking wood, thunder that rattles the bones. Dark, moonlit waters. All laced with a sweet sliver of hope.) On my skin a hidden sugary aquatic scent amps along with zippy citrus and hidden metal note combination that oddly helps me drift off to sleep after a long dark night. To my nose, XIII leans masculine in a debonair way that is magnetic and yet calming. For longevity, this blends fades within 2 hours and no trace remains when I wake 9 hours later. And I'll just be tucking this alluring oil away for "someday". Bad Apple (Notes: Apple, Musk, Leather) I've been watching way too many Disney, Fairytale, Zodiac/dark sides of signs comparisons because this brings to mind "BAD Snow White". It starts off so innocent at first with gentle wafts of wet realistic apple skin and sweetness of a hidden floral, then a sinister smirk, a violent shuddering thunder and lightning crash over the forest and this woman doesn't need a prince with a flousy name to save her. I love these dramatic types of fragrance transformations. I was a little concerned about the apple but this is a fine blend and takes my imagination away. My only caveat is, I wish Bad Apple lasted longer on me- barely 4 hours on my skin. Top 3 choices (besides Ambrille): Call Girl, Elysia and Candy Cane Redwood Alchemy *Reviews composed in 2021 Technically not my first romp with the ever mysterious pheromone-enhanced category of perfumes (that title goes to Alkemia Perfumes), these three vials, however, were my first venture with a little house of fragrance called Love Potion Magicakal Perfumerie. A bit of rarity in the indie realm as this shop actually has a physical storefront (located in Venice, California USA) and is the only indie company I have found that sells exclusively pheromone laced perfumes. So what brought me to these unique doors of Love Potion? Curiosity mostly! For years I have heard Pheromones were the Dark Side of perfumery and with a friend's upcoming birthday and her very specific request for "a sexy red currant perfume" well it seemed fate and I just had to try them. Here's what I thought. WARNING: Subjects that follow may get a bit (politely told) spicy. My initial order all stemmed from a search for red currants and I messaged the owner to see if she could recommend a few blends and answer some burning questions I had concerning pheromone perfumes and their effect(s). The owner was an absolute sweetheart and patiently answered all my inquiries and gave me a list for my friend and for myself. I purchased one spray vial and to my utter delight was gifted several samples that we spoke of. I only had the opportunity to quickly sniff my friend's birthday gift before wrapping it up along with her preselected sample and I kept the other three vials as my friend doesn't care for the notes that I do. Funny enough she ended up loving the sample she received versus only liking what I purchased for her so I'll mention her choice pick and her experience wearing her special scent potion. Crystal Currents (Much as the way a crystal refracts and reflects and refracts sunshine into dazzling points of illumination, so does our beautiful pheromone-enhanced perfume spray bestow a brilliant shine to your senses. Crystalline notes of white, pink and red grapefruit oils blended with juicy tangy red currant and sweetened with pretty pink sugar and soft-as-a-cloud marshmallow plus a sheer whisper of white amber, so wonderfully upbeat! For further fun and frolic, we've enhanced this lovely with our exclusive AUDACIOUS pheromone formula, an Alpha-Sexual-Social mix for women that encourages boldness and perhaps a walk on the wild side! Promotes confidence, friendliness, femininity, mood elevation and sexuality. Magickal Meanings of Ingredients (I thought this part was so nifty!): Grapefruit- Refreshes and uplifts the spirit, eases exhaustion; beauty and youth glamour. Lends an aura of "sparkle" to the wearer. Red Currant- Aids success in love affairs, and a magical representation of blood. Marshmallow Root- Fertility, happiness, creativity, increase in psychic awareness, intuition, love, protection, exorcism. Gently commanding and persuading. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness and riches. Lust inducing, wishes granted. Amber-Fertility, creativity, love, luck and riches. On my friend, she seems to amplify the sweet factors of this blend and smells like naughty fruit candy, she usually stays away from scents resembling candy but says she was pleasantly surprised and Crystal Currents certainly suits her. The red currant serves as the glowing heart of this perfume over the sugared grapefruit opening and an unexpected amber laced marshmallow is the perfect finale. Between two separate serious male companions (at different points of the year) and other acquaintances, it has been noticed that men adore this perfume and have complimented her multiple times even associating this perfume to her specifically (for extra experiments a few extra drops of Crystal Currents were dabbed in her (at separate times of the year/ different boyfriend's) cars and then placed in her hair. The results were quite positive as both men seemed more attentive and etc; we are just reporting what was observed and noticed). My friend discreetly has requested the Copulin version of Crystal Currants for her next birthday so I call this scent experiment request/gift a success. Sadly my report will be less interesting as I don't currently have a fella to play scent doctor with so my thoughts will be more on general compliments, skin chemistry morphing, and my impressions on specific notes. I'm also going to rank the samples I tried. #3- Mommy's Little Monster (At this time of the year things can get quite chaotic for all hard-working Mummies and we know they could use some assistance in taming their dear darling monsters! This is a seasonal perfume spray featuring an Autumnal blend of warm hay, tangy crisp pear- bestowing protection and good fortune- with a sturdy foundation of bamboo and teak and pretty crown of daisy and heather. We're riding to the rescue with a dose of our exclusive MOTHER'S LITTLE HELPER pheromone formula, a blend for women to help create a household of peace and calm, pleasant interactions, warmth, coziness, friendliness and helpfulness...while secretly exerting a little authority too. Magickal Meanings of Ingredients: Pear- Love, longevity and luck Hay- Friendliness, fruitfulness Daisy- Gentleness, innocence, loyalty and romance. Love, reunion and luck. Heather- Admiration and beauty; protection, especially over women and virtue. Peace, beginnings, elemental magic, wishes granted. Bamboo- Protection, hex breaking, luck and wishes, fertility, wisdom, feminine energy. Teakwood- Longevity, bonding, weathering all conditions, endurance. It remains a frustrating mystery what note exactly drowns out all the others on my skin and pokes at my senses, reminding me of a combination of green medicine and soap but my hunch is the heather as I only have one heather listed perfume (from Jorum Studio) that smells like true ground heather on me and all the others I have tried across the indie realm turn into laundry detergent soap when applied. Such a shame for my skin but an unexpected win for my deep conditioning hair treatment regiment as in my hair the promised pear and hay reign making Mommy's Little Monster a nice autumnal hair treat. #2- Flying Potion 2020 (Description summary- We've blended gorgeous creamy ylang ylang EO, sweet black licorice, marshmallow and vanilla pods, tangy grapefruit and cassis topped with a pinch of cider spices and Poof!) Magickal Meanings of Ingredients: Marshmallow Root- Fertility, happiness, creativity, increase in psychic awareness, intuition, love, protection, exorcism, Gently commanding and persuading. Ylang Ylang- Strongly sensual, attraction, attention, irresistibility, soothes marital problems. Licorice- Love, lust, fidelity, sexual potency. Vanilla- Aphrodisiac, inspires happiness, playfulness, sexual arousal, lust, vitalizing. Grapefruit- Refreshes and uplifts the spirit, eases exhaustion, beauty and youth glamour. It is highly advised to NOT go by what you think you discern from this shop's vials because your heated skin and hair hold and unlocks the true magic of these blends. Honestly, I was puzzled and thought I was possibly sent a mislabeled batch when I first opened my lovely presented parcel as the distinct slight chemical aroma I recognize from my bottle of C24 from Alkemia Perfumes wafted up and I couldn't identify clearly any accompanying notes. What a curious thing! Once applied my impression immediately changed and I raced to the laptop to toss in my basket many perfumes from the catalogue (especially when I tried Love Potion: Pink, but I'm jumping ahead of myself). Flying Potion opens bright and creamy then morphs to seductive liquorice dipped warm spices (perhaps even hidden apple?) and then dries down to this stunning realistic marshmallow vanilla cream and lingering traces of liquorice. I am weak in the presence of a good liquorice or marshmallow perfume and Flying Potion is ace and has been keeping me company on late night walks as the summer season winds down and this hits the spot for the beginning of my favourite time of the year. Now to find someone to share it with, haha. #1- Love Potion- Pink (Description summary- Combines four buttery Vanilla oils from around the globe, added to gorgeously thick Amber and Patchouli, resins, sweet Berries and Sugars galore!) Magickal Meanings of Ingredients: Vanilla- Aphrodisiac, inspires happiness, playfulness, sexual arousal, lust, vitalizing. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness, riches, lust inducing. Berries- Attraction, love inducing, stamina, vigor, draws fortunate circumstances in all areas of your life. Apricot- Love, love, love, romance, passion and feminity Amber- Fertility, love, luck, riches. Patchouli- Soothes and uplifts, sensual, sexually stimulating, lust, fertility, money. Butter- Nurturing, soothing, eases troubled relationships, Goddess energy Verbena- Mood uplifting, makes one attractive to the opposite sex, everlasting love. As much as I go weak for liquorice and marshmallow, would you believe a cotton candy/fairy floss perfume completely swept me off my feet and garnered the most compliments from work colleagues and strangers? It's all true, I smell like a pastel and peach toned Valentine with Marilyn Monroe's image glamming on the front. The notes may seem simple but that's where the true beauty of this oil lies, it catches you off guard first pulling at playful and airy elements but then transforms into this warm sophisticated buttery romantic vanilla that others around just gravitate toward and ask about. It's perfectly dubbed, it captures all the qualities when you think of the ideal shade of Pink. Projection and longevity is impressive with this fragrance as it goes on to enchant 16 hours versus Mommy's Little Monster's 6 hours and Flying Potion landing in the middle at 10 hours. The search is over, I finally found a cotton candy/fairy floss perfume I can wear without feeling like a child or it triggering bad high school memories. So the big questions would I order from Love Potion Magickal Perfumerie again and are Pheromones truly the dark side of perfumery and should be feared? A resounding yes to if I will order again and let's just say be prepared for more reviews in the coming months and I only care what I think and how they make me feel which is spectacular and confident. Love Potion® Magickal Perfumerie Ever since I stepped into the realm of Indie Fragrances one house has been repeated with an exotic and expensive flair that called from afar I was not yet prepared to venture towards...until last year when I was recommended to see the godsend to all Indie Collectors and Explorers known as "decanters"; these sweet beings offer different seasonal blends at a wide discount which allows those of us with restricted wallets and pocketbooks a chance to sample perfumes we have lusted after and finally join the excited conversation circles surrounding certain shops. This is a happily ever ending story all thanks to Crypta Obscura/KosmikFade. One Note At A Time: Koaliday (Bastet's Australian melty Vanilla Ice Cream, Crystalline Absolute, Vanilla Bean Fleck, Fried Dough accord ala Funnel Cake deliciousness, White Cinnamon and Vanilla infused Powdered Sugar) This is a bushel and a peck and a hug around the neck with exotic and warm woody cinnamon, creamy buttery vanilla and the unmistakable aroma of country-fried dough. Every note promised is there and it creates this cosy enveloping feeling of home comforts and seasonal memories that lasts an impressive 13 hours. It's marvellous and must try if you love gourmand fragrances and the deeply soothing quality of cinnamon. Ducky (Fresh Pear, Bastet's Amber Absolute, Skin Musk, Vanilla Bean Liqueur, Crimson Red Musk) This was my first dip into NAVA fragrant waters and I must say I'm impressed. Ducky is indeed fresh pears without any unnecessary soapiness and is matched beautifully with a spiked vanilla bean, warm amber and soft silkiness underneath it all. When first applied the scent amplifies for about 2 hours then dies down to this creamy vanilla pear finish that lasts 16 hours now. I must admit I was hoping to not love this and move quietly along but what can I say, NAVA has wowed me and I'm in trouble (yep, yep yep!) Llama Llama (Vanilla infused Sandalwood, Cashmere Vanilla accord, Indian Sandalwood, French Vanilla Bean and Santalum Absolute) My expectations and wishes flew too high to the sandalwood and french vanilla drenched sun this time as this blend is a masculine soapy flop on my skin. It's always the call of French Vanilla that gets me to pull that buy-now trigger. My search continues ultimately and I have learned a vital lesson that santalum combined with cashmere may be best to avoid with my chemistry. Sigh. *Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you. Uriel (Thick resin and incense of Holy Myrrh and Sandalwood) This was a surprise bonus vial found in my order and I must say this blend named after an archangel is a dreamy romantic sandalwood that is indeed "ethereal" and even "protective" in ways. Uriel was a much finer introduction to NAVA's Sandalwoods and Resin centred oils for me and I would love to try more of this house of fragrances' sandalwood perfumes. For longevity, this oil fades within 5 hours which is my only caveat as I would love to wake from a full days' sleep with this masculine leaning fragrance softly caressing my wrists and neck. Nocturne Alchemy Studios Crypta Obscura One Note At A Time: Cimetière du Père Lachaise - Paris, France (Notes: Faded lipstick, moss-covered brick, hazy morning fog, discarded petals, packed dirt, chestnut wood, distant chimney smoke) ☠This largest cemetery in France is the final resting place of several famous artists, writers and dancers. Some names you may recognize are Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan, Peter Abelard and Héloïse, Frédéric Chopin and Jim Morrison. Opened in 1804, Cimetière du Père Lachaise started off as the additional interment of Paris's deceased after the closing of the over-packed Cimetière des Saints-Innocents which is another famous cemetery that has been featured in a few pages of fiction- Anne Rice's The Vampire Lestat (this won't be the last we hear of Lestat in this long overdue review of iconic cemeteries) and Patrick Süskind's Perfume. Not to be outdone Cimetière du Père Lachaise has been mentioned in works and films such as: Victor Hugo's Les Misérables, Alexandre Dumas's The Count of Monte Cristo and The Doors. Opening the vial I'm greeted by the sensation of realistic cold air and the scent of dirty stones and dusty brick. The cold dirt encrusted stone with an roll of aged moss intensifies on the skin and a billow of ashes and smoke spreads across this dark scene. You can easily imagine yourself walking into this locale surrounded by centuries-old monuments with poetic epitaphs and fitting tributes. Nearly an hour later a distinct vintage lipstick fragrance wafts out of the lanes and pays a lovely homage to the once popular tradition of kissing Oscar Wilde's tomb. It's at this point of this atmospheric tour that I'm reminded of an unfortunate miss perfume that ended up a disaster with my chemistry- Hydromancy. Ever so slowly that medicinal induced nightmare creeps out of Cimetière du Père Lachaise and I'm still at a loss what exactly my chemistry morphs with to resemble old fashioned cough syrup on a metal spoon, the violets, the fog note? It remains a frustrating mystery. All I can end this round with is I do prefer Cimetière du Père Lachaise to Hydromancy as one will allow me more time to enjoy the nifty realistic atmospheric elements before changing over and it fades softly after a few hours versus launching into a full on assault on my poor head whilst amping to the heavens and back. Highgate Cemetery - London, England (Notes: Earl Grey tea, lavender sprigs, juniper berry, ivy, gravel, crumbling cobblestones, delicate fallen leaves & soft mittens) ☠Part of the "Magnificent Seven" located outside of central London, Highgate Cemetery opened in 1839 and has the status of being a duel nature preserve and is a popular site to pay one's last respects to several movers, thinkers and entertainers of different eras. It is also a location that is believed home to a supernatural being known as the "Highgate Vampire", this figure real or not, Highgate is where you will find tombs and markers to: John Galsworthy, Bob Hoskins, Lizzie Siddall, George Eliot, Malcolm Tierney and Henry Gray. For a fragrance inspired by the stalking grounds of a demonic vampire this blend is surprisingly uplifting, peaceful and pretty. A non-soapy earl grey tea with an additional grating of bergamot and soft buds of lavender is dominant on my skin with a background of crumbled stone and juniper sprigs. Highgate Cemetery is nothing like I was expecting (I was hoping for the inclusion of ink for a nod to all the brilliant authors and poets interned in the grounds and to be perfectly honest, a drop of blood included), however I oddly enjoy this one and I can see myself reaching for this vial in the dead of winter. On the long dry down Sixteen92's infamous textile and tactile accords appear with something resembling worn yarn mittens and warm skin. Highgate Cemetery is a cosy unobtrusive medley with drops of nature and I can understand why it was a smash hit this past autumn. Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles, California (Notes: Glamorous satin and soft feather fringe, black fig, orris, tonka, bourbon on the rocks, smoked cardamom, cold marble) ☠Even though recent rockstars such as Chris Cornell and iconic childhood voice actors as Mel Blanc reside within the sprawling 40 acres of land, this cemetery was founded in 1899 and has gone under numerous renovations and name changes. Hollywood Forever Cemetery is the current moniker and this site is loaded with Tinseltown's elite departed. I could rattle off names all day, but to save time, I'll list the names I would love to pay respects to (including Cornell and Blanc): Estelle Getty, Burt Reynolds, Lucille Bliss, Marion Davies, Judy Garland, Virginia Rappe, Mickey Rooney, Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel and Rudolph Valentino. The glitzy and elegant spirit of Old Hollywood comes through brilliantly in this blend. A celebratory fig that reads as a cranberry cocktail opens this perfume and then this soft realistic textile element slowly presents itself to take this wearer into her fantasies of time travel back to the golden era of cinema and donning a satin white floor-length gown with a feathered boa and patter of powder (if only for 6 hours). The twist ending of this scent experience is a photo-realistic smooth cold marble or ice note that hits the mid-nose reminding me this is a haunting tribute to the heyday of silver screen classics. Sixteen92 channels another bygone era for me and Claire is the undefeated Queen of Atmospherics in my book, brava! Lafayette Cemetery No 1 - New Orleans, Louisiana (Notes: White mandevilla, sooty dragon’s blood, wild datura, wrought iron gates, muddy clay, living moss, chicory root, bone dust, chalk) ☠Unlike the other cemeteries on this scent tour, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 is closed to the public due to it's unfortunate dilapidated state (from natural disasters and vandalism). It was founded in 1833 and I was not able to find a large list of any easily recognizable figures, this final resting place seems more centred around founding families of New Orleans and it was a hot spot of paranormal activity and tourists spanning back to the 1990s with the popularity of The Vampire Chronicles series and various music videos. In the vial Lafayette Cemetery No 1 presents as a cold floral to the nose. It changes on application as a distinct rusty iron aroma collides with the top white florals and a dusty chalk wafts over the senses. It's another transportative scent potion. I wouldn't call Lafayette Cemetery No 1 a true autumnal blend, it almost has a hidden humidity in it that brings to mind the end of summer and right when you can feel the first nip in the air. As time ticks on, more earthy notes appear and Sixteen92' trademark dragon's blood becomes more noticeable turning this thick (nearly soapy) floral into an almost sinister realm. In ways, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 shares similar qualities of Necromancy. Between the two perfumes, Necromancy is still my top pick. Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán - Oaxaca, Mexico (Notes: Wreaths of marigold & cockscomb, dusty cocoa, canela, sugar cube, flickering votives, honey cakes) ☠Undoubtedly the oldest cemetery on this inspired olfactory journey (the founding dates flucuate from the 18th to the late 16th century), Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is best known for it's Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations and traditions. This cultural celebration of life, death and family starts on the morning of October 31st and continues into the month of November. Offerings are made from little bells to booze and sweetened pumpkin. Somehow I think Sixteen92 has waited years to offer a scented "eulogy" to this fascinating place and the Day of the Dead as Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is everything exotic, ambient and tasty rolled into one oil. For placement of favourite perfumes within this set, Hollywood Forever Cemetery is my top choice with Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán a close second. I didn't expect to say that but hands down Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is the best marigold perfume I have found in the indie realm and I'm in awe how nice my chemistry plays with every note listed. If you love dusty peppery florals with a twist of pseudo-gourmand (the foodie notes are there but I promise you, you won't smell like a bakery) this one is a must to have. As with every oil in the Memento Mori collection, Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán smells like a specific location, holds a different feeling and you can tell it was extremely well-researched. Querida (Blood red roses, ceylon cinnamon, smouldering resins, golden amber, ethereal swirl of opium) In addition to cemeteries around the globe/ Memento Mori, Sixteen92 unveiled an Addams' Family set for Fall 2020 and I had to get my claws on Morticia's inspired fragrance. It's taken 6 months but I think I finally have this oil aged and I'm slowly falling under it's particular spell. Now I must admit, the vial wand doesn't hold the most encouraging aroma as I get paint thinner and something masculine smelling (all pinching threatening to turn into one humdinger of a headache), but once applied Querida begins to intrigue and seduce. A thick smoke mix of ancient practices appears first then the dark roses slowly reveal themselves along with a lacing of sweet opium. It's just when the realistic roses and vintage amber that Sixteen92 excels at begin to bloom and take my mind away that the full story and scene of Querida comes clear, this is that beautiful tango scene from the sequel film which made and still makes all little black hearts flutter and vow to learn to dance and never settle. Querida is spicy, exotic, dark, dangerous and full of passion. Who doesn't want to smell like that? Death By Stereo! (Night air on the boardwalk, spun sugar and cider, melted ice cream, cannabis accord, whirling tendrils of nag champa) Here's another that needed quite a bit of aging, however unlike Querida, I'm still not sure about Death By Stereo! as it's sadly forgettable. The brief opening is lovely smelling of cool fall air, spilled apple cider and sweet sticky delights then it transforms entirely into soapy incense and stays that way all night. As much as I want to love Death By Stereo! as the legion of fans who recommended this perfume, I don't think this ode to one of the most iconic and quotable vampire films is for me. I'm going to pass Death By Stereo! along to a friend. (*Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Oh What Fun! (A bustling winter gathering filled with warm wishes, mulled wine, dried winter figs, cranberry garlands, smoky tonka, vetiver, amber and a whisper of incense.) Mmm, one whiff and I knew I chose wisely with this seasonal oil. I adore the tart scent of cranberry and when added to the mulled wine and hidden pine then it's a merry party. Funny enough it could very well be a sibling fragrance to Hollywood Forever Cemetery (with the tonka, amber and refinement elements), only this is the before holiday party with bulbs flashing and Hollywood Forever is what happens after the lights go out behind the locked gates. No surprise, Oh What Fun! easily landed on my list for favourite holiday perfumes I tried this past year and just like Hollywood Forever Cemetery and Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán, I hope these perfumes all return in 2021 for an encore! Sixteen92 It just takes one unique note listing to get me knocking at a new shop's door and when Twisted Wonderland Perfumery shared a post about a creative spin on ice cream and it was listed as a body oil- I HAD to have it. Black Pepper and Vanilla Ice Cream? That sounded like a heavenly patchwork of sweet and warm spice that I didn't have anything resembling in my vast collection...but oh bother, it was listed under another season's catalogue and looked to be sold out. With pepper and vanilla swirling in my twisted brain, I took a complete shot in the dark and messaged the owner to inquire if one bottle was still available and to my utter delight this mad scent-scientist was an absolute sweetie and offered to make me a custom order! This was only the beginning in the months that followed, come along and let me tell you about my discoveries at Spirit & Venom Olfactory Arts (formerly named Twisted Wonderland). Venom Body & Bath Oil (previously named 'Black Pepper Vanilla Bean Ice Cream') Is a must-have if you love sugary vanilla ice cream with an unexpected edge. The black pepper adds a sinister dark twist to the creamy vanilla and I won't lie it's quite addicting and deliciously wicked!
*Every order it seems an additional sample is tucked inside the packaging along with stickers! (thank you, Spirit & Venom!) Fool this blend is dubbed but you definitely would not feel a fool trying this perfume if you love peach, bubbles and a hint of sugared herbs. On me, this is a bright zippy fruit fragrance that brings to mind a Peach and Guava La Croix on a hot summer afternoon. It hits the spot for something bright and tropical but approachable without coconut and to my amazement the peach is staying true and not morphing into cat urine. I do however wish this fragrance lasted longer as it taps out at 4 hours. Fool was something completely out of my comfort zone but ended up a keeper. The Rest Is Confetti Body and Bath Oil (Notes: A cup of white tea, elegant white musk, marshmallow buttercream cupcakes, & soft rose petals) The bottle contains this intriguing ghostly shimmery oil that flashes green in the light (like an orb) and the fragrance of this oil dries down to a lovely delicate almond cake with rose buttercream fragrance but first the white tea with white musk does give a clean and fresh opening that can be off-putting. The longer this bottle ages, the more I'm enjoying slathering The Rest Is Confetti as the marshmallow sweetness is becoming more noticeable with the soft rose months later which is exactly what I was hoping for when I ordered. Basic Witch Body and Body Oil (Notes: A giant pumpkin milkshake with a side of sugar cookies slathered in decandent pumpkin flavored buttercream) Just as with The Rest Is Confetti, this blend gets better the more it ages. I think it was the hidden almond that was throwing off my nose the first couple months with Basic Witch but tonight I'm happy to report, it's creamy, buttery and sugary pumpkin with a distinct nutmeg heart and I'm happily coated in fragrant orange shimmery oil. The hidden almond is still there but is more muted and falls behind of the top and heart notes. I will note that the bottles are the devil to open if you have RA or limited strength in your hands. Good news they don't spill or drip, bad news, you may need help opening them each time you wish to slather yourself. *I quickly found out it was a better plan to order samples in different fragrances THEN purchase the matching body oils if I fell hard for them. The perfume vials arrived in a wrapped box with little extra details and was ready for gift-giving if you ordered for that purpose. Speaking of packaging, I love the gothic but whimsical elements this shop puts into its labels, boxes and organza bags. It's just that extra touch of some dark flair that catches the eye! Perfume Oils: Ghost (Notes: A mixture of light + dark vanilla notes to create a deep vanilla aroma reminiscent of vanilla extract) As it says on the tin, however there is a chemical woody note with alcohol hiding underneath which takes a few moments to settle down when first applied. A little goes a long way on me as well and this oil fades within 3 hours. I'm marking this vanilla perfume down to add to a deep conditioner/whipped soap treatment this coming week. I think this oil would be divine in my curls versus on my skin. Venom (Notes: Black pepper essential oil combined with sweet vanilla notes making for a sweet fragrance with a sting) Ah, the sweet sinister pairing of pepper and ice cream, how oddly comforting! On me, the pepper is immediately apparent with the vanilla ice cream serving as a creamy backdrop that appears more forward as the warm earthiness of the black pepper fades back but never completely disappears even 7 hours later. No surprise this turned out to be my overall top favourite perfume oil from this shop and I need this topsy-turvy scent in everything! Spirit (Notes and Description: A simple yet beautiful aroma composed of synthetic ambergris. Reminiscent of ozonic/skin musk with hints of amber. If you enjoy a certain mainstream 'not a perfume' this is a must have). Yep, I know that scent, it's Iso E Super with a hidden cedarwood and vanilla base. I was hoping for more amber to shine through with salty ambergris but it's a strange chemical wood note rising to my nose that I recognize from the beginning of Ghost. Spirit is intriguing but I don't think for me. For longevity, this oil vanishes within an hour on my skin. Mistress of the Dark (Notes: A sexy seductive blend of spun sugar, dragons blood, and patchouli) *a free sample with my one order Why am I feeling like in I'm in the Templar's Tomb with a row of goblets and I must pick one? Okay, let's try again, haha. I had such unexpected fantastic luck with Fool, I'm grabbing something completely out of my comfort zone with spun sugar and... I chose wisely, as I really like the playful but darkly seductive qualities of Mistress of the Dark! Yay! Oh thank the shining perfume stars as this one is sweet but suggestive with the dragons blood and soft patchouli and lasts well past 8 hours on my skin. I now wish I owned a tight black velvet dress to match this slinky little perfume, ah wardrobe goals for 2021. Nevermore (Notes: A beautiful light woodsy musk combined with fresh red rose and a dash of sweet tobacco) If I wasn't already completely smitten by another tobacco and rose perfume from Redwood Alchemy (review coming soon), I would consider a full bottle of Nevermore as this is another surprising alluring fragrance that is hard to stop sneaking sniffs of when no one is looking. This is bringing to mind the lost figure of Lenore from The Raven at a Jazz Night Club in the 30s or 40s, bathed in blue spotlights. The rose is sweet and velvety and the tobacco is leaning more cigarette cut versus pipe tobacco but it's lovely all the same. This one is a keeper and one to recommend. Graveyard Smash (Notes and Description: A scent reminiscent of a nice stroll through the local cemetery. Crisp leaves in the air, mossy gravestones, freshly dug plots, graveyard flowers, and a hint of your pumpkin latte) In the vial I definitely detect the spiced pumpkin latte with wet dirt and moss and on my skin more realistic ancient weathered stone hits my nose. It's an interesting autumnal atmospheric and morphs hours later to reveal a funeral lily note that lasts nearly 10 hours. I do have another perfume that is similar from another shop so I'm undecided on Graveyard Smash in a full size but I will be keeping the vial for next fall, what dark little heart doesn't want to collect and show off all the convincing cemetery scents from across the indie realm? Black Flame Candle (Notes: Crunchy leaves, evening rain, dusty books, cobweb musk, fall spice, a candle lit after 3 centuries by a virgin) Anyone that knows me, knows if there is a Hocus Pocus reference mentioned in a fragrance catalogue then it shall be MINE! After being impressed with the realistic earthy notes in Graveyard Smash I circled back for this vial when the Halloween collection was announced and I wasn't disappointed. All the atmospheric elements are there telling one amazing scent story with thick aged leather and a hidden savoury note amping on my skin, I have to keep checking the listed notes because I swear I smell bread in an oven with the ancient dusty leather book laying on top of the stove serving as a fiendish cook book. The cobweb musk is sticky with the fall spice in the strands and the muddy leaves serves as the base with a swirl of incense and smoke. I don't detect any waxiness from a candle. Just like Graveyard Smash, this ode to a treasured film is a keeper and one to show off next October. Light As A Feather (Notes: A witchin' sleepover, clove cigarettes, fluffy pillows, buttered popcorn, burning candles, and pints of ice cream.) *a free sample found nestled in another order Right away, I get the smokey clove, butter, vanilla creaminess (and even a hint of hidden dragon's blood) however there is an unexpected sweet bubblegum note that is overwhelming the witchy top scents. Sadly this isn't a late teenage edgy version with a twist of nostalgic gourmand I was hoping for (I was really hoping for realistic ice cream or marshmallow). This oil is more playful "baby witch" on first application. After a few hours it transforms thankfully as the powdery bazooka bubblegum fades away and the creamy vanilla with clove and incense comes out to play. I think this one will be amazing by next Fall. Lip Balms: *Besides the body and bath oils, I fell hard for this shop's stellar lip balm formulas and scents/flavours. I went back twice for different orders and even grabbed some for Christmas gifts which went over wildly well. Rest In Pieces lip balm (flavour: Reeses Pieces) *says "In Pieces" on the site, but my tube says "Rest In Pieces" Yisss this is exactly what I wanted when I ordered. It smells exactly like the inside of a bitten Reeses Pieces candy. The taste is muted which I understand because of allergy concerns, but I still love this product. For performance I have to applaud the formula, it's definitely one of the best lip products I have tried from the indie realm. Does it beat my go-to from Curious Apothecary? No, but Rest In Pieces is second on the list and I want to try the other yummy sounding flavours Spirit & Venom offers. S'more-Hees lip balm (flavour: S'mores) Absolutely delectable and realistic! I get the honeyed graham cracker with a hint of roasted marshmallow more than anything with the scent from the tube but when applied all the promised notes come out and it tastes divine with a buttery smack of the lips. I wish both of these lip balm flavours came in the body and bath oils, until then I'll be stocking up for the seasons. Fingers crossed a chocolate easter bunny flavour is coming for spring or lemon cake. Spirit and Venom Olfactory Arts It's that time of the year to take a stroll into the indie fruit orchards and hopefully encounter a haunting floral veil to another time and place. Last year I found my beloved Exsanguinated on an excursion into the dark crypts of Nui Cobalt's Autumn collections, what will I find this year? One Note At A Time: Murder of Crows (A gothic gathering of blue-black plumage and keen, glittering eyes. Nag champa, smoldering myrrh, and tobacco sparked with clove bud, violet, fir needle, star anise, and currant. Anoint your pulse points in preparation for nocturnal magic, dreamwalking, or astral travel.) *purchased vial A gothic ode to everything mysterious and darkly romantic with a familiar scent memory of Bad Moon Rising sans the blueberry. If anything Murder of Crows is darker in nature with a distinct tobacco, clove, violet and hidden animalistic-quality medley under the resins and incense that appear to the nose first. A very aptly named scent creation that even carries a clever representation of the oily sheen of black and iridescent feathers. For longevity, Murder of Crows goes on to enchant my senses and then fades at 5 hours and makes me wish for more rainy cold days of gothic-themed reading and researching macabre obscure subjects of history. Apple Picking (The orchard at its peak, limbs heavy and bushels brimming. Barely-ripe apples, green leaves, rain-soaked soil, wicker baskets, and golden hay. Wear this powerful prosperity blend to call forth wealth and abundance. Anoint money charms and mojo bags to increase their power.) *purchased vial I said it once and I'll say it again, Nui Cobalt has some of the best apple blends to be found in the indie realm! Apple Picking is a pure autumnal delight with piles of realistic wet apple skin and freshly bitten juicy flesh all arranged on top of a nestling of sun-warmed hay. It's a trip back to the apple orchards of my youth collecting apples with my great aunt to make her infamous pies and dumplings. I adore this soothing fragrance and how it morphs every time I wear it on my skin or in my hair, today more dry wooden basket and apple skin is present to my nose when the winds gust. Cauldron Cider (Comfort in a bottle. A warm brew of honeycrisp apples simmered for days with ginger root, black clove bud, cardamom, cassia, and star anise. Wear this cozy blend for solace and resolution. Anoint mojo bags for peace of mind and a general sense of well-being.) *purchased vial On me, Cauldron Cider is intoxicating spiced full-bodied apple ginger ale with star anise pods bobbing on top. I fully admit I'm a bit enamoured with this one and it indeed smells like fall and is spicey and a bit woodsy on the long dry down. This is another scent potion that could be served as you go wild in a pumpkin patch; in ways, it reminds me of Drunk Pumpkin sans the smokey booze and pumpkin. It's uplifting yet darkly seductive with the star anise and clove. For longevity, I can expect a full night of apple spiced apple ginger ale wafting around me from my skin and my curls. Owl in the Oak Tree (The golden Autumnal sister of Yultide's Owl in the Evergreen. Tawny feathers and bright amber eyes hold a steady gaze among the changing leaves. Regal oakwood, sugar maple and mahogany, slender white limbs of birch, and cold rocks covered in emerald moss. Wear this woodland blend to align with the spirits of Nature and the galvanizing energy of the forest.) *sample arrived with my order, thank you so much Nui Cobalt Designs When first applied I get the impression of entering a thick grove of pine trees with a breeze of ghostly violets gusting out of the winds then the earthy notes of moss and bark begin to materialize with a mintiness I have come to understand my chemistry changes birch into. It's a mix of mint and cold earth for a few hours then the distinct unboiled maple sap from a wet tree arrives with warm amber. Owl in the Oak Tree is a meditative scent escape. Ominous Orchard (Slender branches silhouetted against the evening sky, sending the last of their sweetness into the gathering gloom as the pale moon turns the clouds to silver. This clean and bracing blend enlivens the senses and sharpens the mind. Crisp apples, young green growth and a wisp of deer musk accord on the chilly air.) *purchased vial If Apple Picking is an innocent nostalgic visit to the apple orchard Omnionus Orchard is the fateful moment an attractive and mysterious stranger crosses your path and holds out an apple to you with a smouldering stare and intense soul (most definitely a Scorpio)! Do you follow them into the gathering night and the unknown? I know I would! The clean musk mingled with the sweet apple is just oddly suggestive and I'll just tuck this one away for "someday", haha. ______________________________________________________ So I lost my heart in the dark orchard, what will I find on the Big Island? Let's find out! *all of the following perfumes were sent for an honest review, thank you so much Forest and Josh. Brunch on the Lanai (A luxurious scent to attract wealth and pleasure in all of its forms. Mimosas, french toast with lilikoi preserves, and the gentlest hint of pikake on the breeze though sheer cotton curtains.) I get a bracing sweet airiness of orange and tart exotic fruits and something like floral vanilla honey. It's exceedingly pretty and uplifting. There is a touch of expensive laundry detergent tickling my nose which must be the "sheer cotton curtains", I usually have a strong aversion to anything like laundry or shampoo, but I can't stop amusing myself by creating a mini cloud of a vision of a bright tropical morning by gently waving my wrist in front of my nose and letting the soft sweetness take me away. I don't know where I would wear Brunch on the Lanai, but I'll sure find a fitting fun place too. This one is a keeper! Ohana (A comforting scent to welcome you, ease your mind, and make you feel at home wherever you are. Soft sand, sunwashed driftwood, the cooling shade of the front porch and a plate of homemade haupia malasadas (coconut custard donuts). Oh, this is another keeper as vanilla sugar-dusted coconut dessert and salty wood wafts around me. I get another exotic fruit appearing at the edges that has a hint of honey and the drydown carries a bit of unexpected smoke. It's lovely and like Brunch on the Lanai, it's uplifting and transporting. I'm a little taken aback how much I love these unfamiliar genre of notes. They are so happy and sunny. I'm so glad I tried something completely out of my comfort zone, as I can honestly say, Nui Cobalt Designs turned me in a coconut lover. Plumeria Lei 2020 (A traditional greeting in the Hawaiian Islands is to place the lei briefly over one's own head, then drape it over the shoulders of the guest. The Islands' most abundant bloom symbolizes new beginnings, love, and all that is good in life. Our plumeria accord is a delicate bouquet of osmanthus, peony, lime blossom, and tuberose lifted by subtle glimmers of Asian pear and sugared lemon. Wear this uplifting scent to brighten your mood and banish malaise.) Ah, I knew my finicky chemistry would sense my happiness and be determined to ruin something for me, sadly Plumeria Lei has been chosen. I had such high hopes for this vial especially with the listed lime blossom and pear and I'm sure it would be stunning on anyone else, but on me, overwhelming expensive hair shampoo takes over after a few marvellous seconds of velvety blooms and lovely citrus. Oh, bother this one was so promising for those few precious moments. Does anyone want to trade skin chemistries? (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Waipio Valley (The Valley of the Kings is adorned with towering waterfalls, a crescent black sand beach, and a palpable primal energy. This sacred space has survived two tsunamis without a single casualty. Dark myrrh and vetiver, sand-smoothed teak wood, kava kava, rain-drenched ti leaves, and a subtle touch of dry coconut husk. Wear this mysterious scent to wrap yourself in fiercely loving protection. Anoint black candles to ward off malicious energy and restore a sense of security.) The black sands of the big islands are something I dearly would love to see someday and until then I will wear this soothing woody resiny blend and let my mind slip away and imagine my toes sinking into warm ancient sands. The perfume differs of Waipio Valley slightly to my nose versus the candle I own of the same name, I get more salty teak wood in the candle while my skin amps the dry smokey coconut and resins. There is also a mysterious minty-like note I get that I'm beginning wondering is myrrh. It's still all a great fragrance to fall asleep wearing or read by and yes, I do feel curiously protected. Sister Of Stars (She gazes skyward, matching cosmic rhythms that send her mind aloft. Eyes like lightning-struck silver reflected in dragonflies’ wings. My Sister sees me. Dew-drenched linden blossom, Persian lime, blueberry seltzer, one white rose, and the subtlest insinuation of fresh garden mint.) Superb! This could very well be a starry-eyed sister scent of Manta Ray. Ah, Nui Cobalt's dewy realistic roses just take away my senses and make me beam, they are gorgeous in every way and here in Sister Of Stars, the nectar of the sweet white rose blends so perfectly with the fruity tartness of the effervescent blueberry and lime. The promised mint is indeed there and shows up after a few moments adding a unique gentle green herbal twist to everything. You won't find this combination in the department stores. And now Part II of my trove of scent potions and autumnal olfactory delights from Nui Cobalt Designs (Thank you so much, Forest and Josh, for the press samples!) For longevity: Shortest- Creative Spark at barely 2 hours and for Longest- The Widow Wore Red at 19 hours. Pumpkins & Spidersilk (An autumnal variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, pumpkin chai, hot cinnamon rolls, nutmeg, clove, allspice, and a scant drop of honey. Wear to warm your heart, lift your spirits, and take time for simple pleasures.) ✴Please note: this perfume contains cinnamon, and should be avoided by those with cinnamon sensitivities. ✴Purchased bottle I have searched near and far for the comforting spirit of fall bottled and Nui Cobalt Designs presented exactly what I have been desiring for so long. The notes say purely gourmand, but the nose receives layers of heartening autumnal therapy with warm spices, a kiss of sweet creamy pumpkin icing and the familiar "cold" vanilla element of Starlight & Spidersilk underneath waiting to deepen and morph with the passing hours. I also detect the slightest drop of sandalwood and unexpected realistic cream cheese frosting and a wisp of smoke. It's full of delightful surprises and it's finally home. Black Moon (This proliferant perfume is teeming with generative force and fierce fecundity. It nourishes and the seeds of intention, filling them with raw vitality. It's a master of manifestation, propelling invocations toward fulfillment ... so be careful what you wish for. Dark incense coils about an ebony altar abounding in spiced fig preserves, saffron-poached plums, green mandarin, and honey on the comb. Black Moon is handcrafted and charged under the rare auspices of the second consecutive New Moon in a single sign. Like the Blue Moon, this event holds uniquely amplified power to bless new beginnings and access hidden reserves of magical potency.) ✴Press Sample for review The notes selected for Black Moon curiously capture something slowly awakening within myself with a sweetness of the honey and bright mandarin lightly masking a dual darkness of plum, incense and hidden clove underneath that I can't help but to gravitate towards. The more and more I'm delving into different interests and topics I'm finding I have quite a bit of dark moon energy about myself that I hide (and even deny) every day and I need to just love about my being and embrace. 2020 was a year of unexpected change and transformation for myself and Black Moon is one of those fragrances that will serve as a scent memory for me as I continue on my journey. Brigid's Fire (A warming blend to honor the Awakening Goddess and invoke her inspiration. Spiced fig and apricot preserves, smoldering patchouli and pipe tobacco swirled with tannic black tea and languid benzoin. Wear this luminous scent to stoke the fires of creativity and vitality at your sacred center.) ✴Free Sample with Previous Purchase A very aptly named fragrance as I can clearly smell the heat from the spices intertwined with the tobacco and fruit giving the overall nifty impression of heat and flames. After a few moments, the tannic black tea makes itself known but never turns soapy which is some type of unexplained magic in itself. For longevity Brigid's Fire burns out on me about 6 hours and leaves with an aroma of warm clove with hint of apricot honey and metal-like patchouli. Hekate Deichteira (The Teacher. The Revealer. She whose torch illuminates the path so that experience may become wisdom. A chaplet of laurel, olive leaves, sage, rosemary, acacia wood, white lotus, moonflower, deep purple heliotrope, claret, and black fig. Wear to enliven the mind and enhance perception. Anoint purple candles to increase psychic abilities.) ✴Press Sample for review On application this perfume smells like rich olive oil and meditative herbs then this sweetness of the heliotrope and wine start to appear and it turns into herbal fruit marshmallow on me. The velvety white florals add some mystical aquatic impression to Hekate Deichteira and the more I wear this the more I enjoy it and find new facets that turn my head to attention. Not your everyday type of fragrance but I find this soft and relaxing and it goes perfectly with an icy windy day you can curl up with a good book (or take a nap wearing). The Widow Wore Red (A shameless concoction of spiced plum, lascivious musk, patchouli, tart cherry, sweet pipe tobacco, warm gingerbread drizzled with vanilla caramel dusted with clove, coriander, and cardamom. Wear when you're ready to liberate yourself from sorrow and doubt, to abandon all pretense of timidity and let your Fierce flag fly.) ✴Purchased So you want to smell like the Grand High Witch from The Witches or just a bit dangerously delicious and provocative, well Nui Cobalt has a fragrance for you... The Widow Wore Red is a sweet "come closer" type of perfume and then the dark spiced fruit and under notes come out to play and it has a fiendish beautiful side that others around are sure to notice. Exactly what I envision enrobing one of my favourite characters from fiction and fantasy film (and it even smells "violet and glowing"). I love how this perfume makes me feel and how it encourages some themed fun! Woodsmoke & Spidersilk (A cozy variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, aged oakwood, roasted pistachio, mahogany, oud, Peru balsam, amyris, and toasted marshmallow. Wear for calming and comfort. Warm in an oil diffuser to cast a spell of Hygge within the home.) ✴Press Sample for review I am weak in the presence of a good smoke blend and Woodsmoke & Spidersilk makes my senses just swoon. This perfume perfectly straddles the autumn and winter mark and the familiar Starlight & Spidersilk serves as the perfect backdrop of this perfume creating the idea of a romantic haunting memory of a smouldering fire and basis of a beautiful complex mystery. I am the alluring ghost of Manderley in this perfume. Blue Moon at Samhain (A luminous potion for casting your most powerful spells. Smooth driftwood glistening with sea salt, pearl gardenia, oat milk, coconut flesh, forget-me-not, neroli, and a trace of lavender. Wear to enhance intuition or amplify magical potency. Anoint ritual candles to invoke Lunar deities and nocturnal spirits.) ✴Press Sample for review A lovely salty gardenia fragrance opens with Blue Moon at Samhain and the feeling of vintage elegance follows along with soft creamy powder. This is what to wear when you want to feel radiant and a bit mystical in your surroundings. I wore this the first time the day after Halloween and it oddly reminded me of the flash of a moonstone. If Beauty didn't already captivate me, Blue Moon at Samhain would have been coming home. I hope it returns next year. Beauty (It illuminates your charms and amplifies allure, encouraging self care and the avid appreciation of your finest qualities. An exquisite air of Caribbean teakwood, nectarine, water lilies, Magdagascar vanilla, heirloom roses, tobacco flower, and lavande de Provence over smooth tonka bean. Wear any time you need to be reminded of your innate perfection. Employ in rituals of attraction to awaken your inner radiance.) ✴Press Sample for review Few times can I recall when a perfume has made me feel so positive and "comfortable" about myself and I waited far too long to try Beauty. I was initially concerned about the listed teak wood and tobacco flower, but these notes are so subdued if not completely absent to my nose and I only receive a soft glowing aura of downy powder with a kiss of citrus that has caught me off guard at different times and I have been surprisingly finding myself stopping to contemplate in the looking glass several times long after midnight and noticing subtle pleasant features about my person (I recently lost 50 pounds so new things and positive changes in the mirror are a welcome sight). Perhaps it's the simple power of persuasion or something magically swirled in with this blend, but whatever it is this is a perfume to wear when you need a little morale boost and a nudge to hold your head up just a little higher when you enter a room or speak to a stranger. Crone's Cottage (Encouragement in a bottle. This witches' brew is imbued with strength, fortitude, and optimism. Oatmeal cookies still warm from the oven, beeswax candles on the windowsill, a warm cup of strong black tea with milk, and a generous dollop of honey. Wear this heartening scent to prepare for any challenge and restore a sense of self-confidence.) ✴Purchased This blend starts out almost boozy smelling akin to Flummery from their popular Great Bakers Challenge/April Fool's collection then it settles right down to dried spiced apple rolled honey oat clusters and a piping hot cup of black tea you want to wrap yourself in. I'm constantly amazed with Nui Cobalt's tea blends and Crone's Cottage shares the same tannic warmth from Stinger which was also a surprise success with my finicky skin chemistry. There is no soapiness to report here and as this vial is slowly aging the realistic beeswax Nui Cobalt excels at is coming more noticeable to my nose hours later along with some lingering apple oat spice. Daughter of the Dark Moon (The Sorceress sings as dusk descends, dressed in unencumbered starlight. Her laughter weaves a living tapestry of ancient and sacred truths. She awakens me to my power. Black coconut, nocturnal jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, white sandalwood, dried lavender, sheer cotton, and a trace of Tahitian vanilla.) ✴Press Sample for review A clean fresh perfume with tuberose sharing the spotlight with lovely nocturnal jasmine. The coconut lends a smooth slight tropical quality to this and the drydown is this shop's trademark divine creamy sandalwood and vanilla. This one is a like not a love and I'm going to enjoy Daughter of the Dark Moon in my whipped soap and a deep hair conditioning treatment some night soon. Hekate Potnia Theron (Mistress of Animals. Lady of the Wild Beasts. She who cherishes all who slither and soar, who climb and crawl. Green fig, cedar, cypress, orris root, golden hay, toasted oats, warm suede, woodland musk, and tonka. Wear to align yourself with Nature and ignite your primal wisdom.) ✴Press Sample for review This oil opens with a sweet grape skin then morphs to buttery suede and oats. It reminds me a little of White Tailed-Deer, but with more grounding earthy elements and it isn't like cream dipped suede with sugared berries, Hekate Potnia Theron has a bit of masculine bite which isn't for me either. I will say this one stays close to the skin even with the suede and woodland musk. It's a keeper I'm just not sure where I would wear this. Sister of Stars (Her chin is always up. I lift my own. We scan the golden, sunlit clouds. Time cannot touch this effortless afternoon. A smile and a tilt of her head. “This sucks,” she teases. And I couldn’t have found a better way to praise the day. My Sister elevates me. Spun sugar, lavender water, two chilled mojitos, teakwood beach chairs, melted white amber, the softest cotton sundress, and clouds.) ✴Press Sample for review I can't recall if this was part of the Big Island collection or not but Sister of Stars smells like a tropical drink melting on my wrist. On application, it's a bracing sugared mint then gentle hidden citrus appears along with soft lavender. At this point, it does lean a tad into the expensive laundry detergent area, but the final dry down of the sweet white amber saves this experience for me. I like how Sister of Stars smells on my skin but I think this would be amazing in my hair as an argan oil additive. Porch Swing (A lazy Autumn afternoon when the sun is setting gold. Oakwood, amber, pear preserves, skin-warmed cotton, fresh rhubarb, rosemary, and tea. Wear this calming, centering blend to bring you back to the present moment. Warm in a diffuser to set a relaxed mood in your home.) ✴Press Sample for review There's always exceptions to my nose and lists of likes and Porch Swing manages to hit them all. Yes, it does smell like expensive laundry soap at different points of wear and yes the tart rhubarb amplifies on me, but the rich sweetness of the pear preserves, rosemary with tannic tea and the stunning finish of the warm amber all saves the day and I can't stop dabbing this lovely blend on. It brings to mind a carefree summer picnic and twinkling fireflies off in the distance. What can I say I'm a sucker for a good pear note and Nui Cobalt has some of the best accords. Cut & Clear (A no-nonsense banishing blend to expel negativity from your life. Fresh lemon zest, purifying benzoin, black raspberry bramble with the thorns left on, rainwater, Silver Needle white tea, angelica, garden mint, crushed white peppercorn, and bay leaf, infused with home-grown lemon thyme and lemon verbena. Wear to repel bad influences and hurtful people. Anoint papers inscribed with the name(s) of whomever you want to remove from your circle, set your magical intention, then burn the paper on a Saturday during the waning moon.) ✴Press Sample for review If you are looking for an energizing citrus zip, look no further than this blend. To me, Cut & Clear smells like lemonade pepper tea with rolled up lemon verbena and thyme on the side of the glass. Refreshing and electrified with an earthy greenness underneath. I'm definitely going to be reaching for this vial in the summer months and sprinkling a couple of drops in my bathwater. Hekate Enodia (She of the Crossroads. Lady of the Ways. The goddess who guards, guides, and grants passage. An offertory incense of copal and myrrh, clove bud, star anise, sweet pipe tobacco, Bosc pear, bitter almond, tonka bean, freshly turned earth, and a sprig of rosemary. Wear to improve navigational skills, both geographic and philosophic. Warm three drops in a diffuser as an offering to the Divine Feminine) ✴Press Sample for review This is the delicious and mysterious lovechild of The Bees Knees and Snowball Fight. I'm weak for pear blends and this one is gorgeous and has in its wake smooth vanilla almond, anise (which is another weakness for me) and a drizzle of hidden honey I recognize from the above mentioned perfumes. I also receive a medicinal waft of rosemary on the long drydown which added with the almond and anise gives Hekate Enodia a different edge. If I didn't already own bottles of The Bees Knees and Snowball Fight, Hecate Enodia would be coming home. Stories & Spidersilk (A scholarly variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, aging leather-bound books, pipe tobacco, and towering wooden shelves. Wear to honor the spirits of wordsmiths past, to invoke your literary Muse, and to enhance eloquence.) ✴Press Sample for review Stories & Spidersilk was another fragrance that almost accompanied me out on Halloween night as I had the notion weeks before to don a fitted red trenchcoat, hat and yellow scarf and let 90s fantasies take wing finally as a dream Carmen Sandiego costume but then I found the perfect aristocrat vampire outfit and scrapped that plan. Still, I can't get the idea of this being the perfect perfume for the cunning seductive ex-detective. The realistic leather from a well-thumbed tome opens this scent potion and a hint of salt from the aged pages along with wet ink becomes noticeable as the minutes tick by, the familiar Spidersilk serves as the suggestive base and I notice a wisp of lily of the valley hiding in the far background. This really is the scent of a wicked brilliant mastermind who loves to play mind games. Spring-Heeled Jack (An ode to the cultural phenomenon of the Urban Legend: the shared stories that reveal our collective fears and darker inclinations.London fog, rain-soaked cobblestones, blue Atlas cedar, bergamot, charcoal tweed, grey musk, and the fading scent of Victorian violet powder.) ✴Press Sample for review Meet Gremlin's sibling fragrance, this one has the same intriguing quasi-atmospheric elements, but for me, Spring-Heeled Jack is more wearable (I love Gremlin but that blend leans too masculine than I feel comfortable wearing out; I'm saving it for my future fella). On me the clean sweet bergamot amplifies for a good hour and sets the scene with the wet environment notes then this incredibly realistic tweed material aroma comes out of nowhere along with grounding smoky cedar and these accords wrap about my senses and completely take me away to another era of refinement and complete the story. Surprisingly the listed violet is very subdued on my skin which tends to amp that floral, that's another kind of magic right there. Nui Cobalt deserves so much more recognition especially when it comes to their realistic tactile blends and way with tricky florals. Second Harvest: Fruit (Luscious abundance. Homemade pies and preserves brimming with spiced pear, blackberry, apricot and currant. Wear this confection to attract pleasure and feelings of contentment. Anoint pink or gold candles to manifest luxury and creature comforts.) ✴Press Sample for review All these luscious dark notes should equal my favourite blend of them all but alas my chemistry morphed everything to sticky cherry cough syrup. In the beginning Second Harvest: Fruit has serious potential as it brings to mind Welch's Fruit Snacks I fondly remember as a child but then it all changes. I'm going to use this one in whipped soap in the coming weeks. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Incense & Spidersilk (A meditative variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, light and dark amber, copal, nag champa, frankincense, and myrrh. Wear to quiet the thoughts and open the mind. It is particularly helpful in restoring calm after stressful encounters.) ✴Press Sample for review Oh dear, this one. I've tried several times and my chemistry transforms all the lovely notes into soapy incense that gives me a pinching headache. Reading others' stellar impressions it is apparent this is the portion of the perfume wearing that my chemistry has decided it sensed my happiness long enough and will destroy everything I was excited about. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Calico Cat (A dynamic blend to keep you resilient and adaptable. Tawny suede, pale sandalwood, toasted coconut, deep amber, and golden honey are accented with bright satsuma, and spiced tamarind. Wear for smooth navigation of challenges. Anoint the tools of your profession to turn obstacles into opportunities.) ✴Please note: this perfume contains cinnamon, and should be avoided by those with cinnamon sensitivities. ✴Press Sample for review True to its name this perfume is bright, playful and relaxing to be in the presence of. On me, the sandalwood and honey are dominant as the top notes of the light tropical fruits fade away after a few minutes. It reminds me in ways of Valkyrie but softer so now I think Calico Cat as the cuddly companion scent. I love both of them for different reasons. Creative Spark (An illuminating blend to summon your muse and elevate your skills. Lime zest, sparkling white grapefruit, bergamot, allspice, sun-warmed teak, cardamom pods, amber resin, frankincense, fresh green fig, and a wisp of Chinese trumpet lily. Apply to pulse points when engaging in your craft. Anoint the tools of your trade or dress candles to invoke artistic acumen.) ✴Press Sample for review Here's another blend that helps me "put on my thinking cap" as uplifting citrus and spice make the perfect combination and are further deepened by the addition of the warm teak wood and resins. It's an overall wonderful fragrance but sadly fades quickly so I need to jot my inspired ideas down quickly whilst I wear Creative Spark otherwise they are gone. Mystery of Maple Walk (Whispering leaves flutter down in shades of livid crimson. Their secrets die with nightfall and the silent portent of snow. This comforting blend inspires relaxation and a deep sense of calm contentment. Sugar maple swirled with spices, dragon's blood, dark woods, frozen flakes of vanilla and a single drop of the blackest black cherry.) ✴Press Sample for review Mmmph there is something about black cherry for me that gets my immediate approval when it is noticed and Mystery of Maple Walk has a lovely note of it that is twirled about warm vanilla, smoked sandalwood and velvety resin. The maple and dragon's blood does tend to amplify on my skin after a bit so I prefer to wear Mystery of Maple Walk in my curls where the sandalwood really shines with the black cherry. This one is a definite keeper. Seduced By Spidersilk (A provocative variation on our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, cherry wine, dragon’s blood and amber resins, tupelo honey, and an irresistible blend of aphrodisiac spices: cardamom, clove, ginger root, coriander, and cassia. Wear to ensnare the object of your desire and to ignite carnal passions. Please note: this perfume contains cinnamon, and should be avoided by those with cinnamon sensitivities) ✴Purchased/Currently available on the site The time's come to play with this scent potion as I get this intoxicating mix of sweet spiced cherry wine, honey from Pele's Fire and the familiar coldness of Spidersilk that all takes my senses far away and I feel I can channel my inner Sarah Sanderson. This oil loves to morph on my skin and the more I wear it out I'm noticing the initial playful sweetness gives way to the rich seductive dragon's blood and waiting warm amber in about an hour time and then the haunting wisps of romantic styled vanilla from Starlight & Spidersilk finishes out the night. 'Tis gorgeous and lasts through a 12-hour shift! Nui Cobalt Designs My nose really can take me to some bizarre places, take for a good example this next house of fragrance called Redwood Alchemy that promised quite the fragrance journey with a just released scent of a trip to the drive-in that involved classic buttery and sweet popcorn with a splash of spilled blood. You read that right, BLOOD. Being that wondrous time of the year when the werewolves, ghosts and vampires roamed, I had to try this blend (with fingers crossed my secret search had come to an end of finding a realistic gore fest from the indie world and not just a dragon's blood substitute) and I also grabbed a few others that were calling me. All I can say, this was strangely beautiful introduction and the start of another list of recommendations. ___________________________________________________ *Reviews composed in November 2020 The gorgeous Hallowe'en Full Moon has come and gone along with a much-needed sugar kick (it was a Taurus moon afterall and it needed to be toasted with an indulgence or two; so no shame) and the howling winds of winter have unexpectedly come abanging at the shutters for many tonight. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm never ready for those frigid reminders and luckily I can keep those types of unwanted demons at bay with slathering myself in powerful scent potions from the indie realm. My latest little trove of themed fragrances arrived from Redwood Alchemy and as the title says: "When it is Hallowe'en every day with indies, the ghosts and vampires never have to fade away" So let's call forth four special selections and a surprise fifth that showed up at my door at the perfect moment. Purchased: October 7th and delivered October 17th Longevity: Between an impressive 15+ hours (Anubis) to 4 hours (Murder At The Movies) on the skin One Note At A Time: Murder At The Movies (Description: Pull up to the Drive-In with your sweetheart for this midnight Blood and Kettle corn double-feature. The cozy familiar fragrance of warm, buttery, carmel topped popcorn with a caustic splattering of sweet metallic blood.) Notes: Popcorn, Butter, Carmel and Blood Murder At the Movies is buttery sweet and carries a realistic tang of salty metallic blood which is all oddly comforting and completely unique within my collection. It's one seriously twisted playful perfume with a satisfying unnerving element you can't wait to share with others and also has some unexplained sleep/relaxation quality to it I wasn't expecting. Who knew a sinister gourmand could help me drift off to dreamland (and could be so wearable). Longevity varies on where I place the oil, on my wrists and arms about 4 hours, on my neck about 6 hours; while in my hair or at the hairline on my neck 10 hours. Areté (Description: As ephemeral as the fae winds - sweet & musky.) Notes: Lily of the Valley, Vanilla, Amber, Cashmere As it says in the tin and how this shop's stellar customer service painted it- haunting and ethereal. I've only had my mini bottle of Areté a few weeks, but I'm already impressed and want to try more. The spice note (very much like coriander) that appears first to the nose is another welcome surprise from this sample box and I'm downright smitten with the romantic musky vanilla and Lily of the Valley that manifests and stays for hours afterward and lends to an overall expensive smelling vintage-esque quality that fits in perfectly with my personal aesthetic and is right at home on my vintage vanity table. This is the scent of a romantic ghost of beauty. I can't wait to see (and smell) what else this charming little house of fragrance has planned next. Cyanide (A poisonously sweet fragrance that combines the scent of bitter almonds with hints of toxic fruit pits like apple, apricot and peach that dries down to a venomous sweet almond spice.) Notes: Almond, Cherries, Clove Top marks for overall presentation and fine attention to detail of these fragrances even right down to the font type on the vintage-esque apothecary bottles. When it comes to Cyanide, my black little heart skips a beat how dead-on sinister this smells and the applaudable research that obviously went into this perfume's creation. This isn't a child-like candy fruit perfume, (so gentle wearer beware), Cyanide coils about your senses with a distinct cherry bitter almond aroma and further plays on your most dark fantasies with an additional drop or two of warm spice. Perfect for reading some fiendish unsolved murder mystery whilst enjoying a piping cup of tea or stepping out for the night where a few raised and intrigued eyebrows will be sure to appear. Now that's a perfume worthy of the name of Cyanide. Anubis (Description: This Egyptian funeral fragrance embodies an authentic herbal mix of wood resins, oils, aromatic spices and papyrus reminiscent of actual mummification materials used in ancient Egypt.) Notes: No listed notes One of the myriad things I love about Indie Perfumes is how they can transport you to new worlds and Anubis is a directly sweeping fragrance back through the sands of time to a royal funeral in Ancient Egypt. Quite a few precious resins make up this blend and my nose detects the almost lemony frankincense amplifying above them all with various dry herbs, a floral akin to geranium and a hint of salt. The promised papyrus is the last note to leave me 15 hours later and this was exactly what I was hoping for when I ordered this mini sample bottle- a well-researched scent experience not of this century. But wait, there's more! I'll be right baaack... *I almost changed my carefully planned costume idea of a Victorian Vampire Aristocrat this year for a seductive Cleopatra after trying Anubis, it has that power to turn everything on its head. Ah, but one little surprise addition that I found nestled in my box of olfactory delights whipped that Victorian Vampire idea back and made my gothic heart sing! A WHITE WHALE HAS BEEN FOUND. BLOOD layering note No listed notes but if I had to give my best guess, the darkest reaches of the scent imagination. You want unique, here it is- the truest smelling blood accord I have found in the indie world and it layers marvellously well with all my fiendish themed perfumes; now that's scent sorcery! For this Halloween, I donned Sixteen92's Mina Harker and added the perfect finishing touch of Redwood Alchemy's BLOOD accord under my lace gloves and behind my ears and the combination that wafted around me was hypnotic and empowering. The sharpness of the cold plums was amplified and the metallic tang of BLOOD entwined with the hidden typewriter ink, powdery violets and old fashioned skin cream of Mina Harker created a whole new fragrance story that I would have dearly loved to have shared with a dark stranger as we waltzed in the moonlight that night, but alas 2020 had other ideas. Atleast, in my mind I was whirling around and dreaming of what may come in 2021. BLOOD will be staying on my vanity and adding its unique touch to everything. Bravo, Redwood Alchemy! Redwood Alchemy *Reviews composed in October/November 2020 Folktale Bath Apothecary I don't know about anyone else, but it honestly seems Indie Artists are secretly reading our scent diaries or wishlists, haha. This autumn alone I was treated to unexpectedly seeing one of my favourite films and tasty guilty pleasures in life being offered in indie forms within the same week and well I went ahauling. This is Part II of the reason(s) I have no desire to leave my tub and am continually tempted throughout the day to nibble my hair. Sleepy Hollow Collection Olde Fashioned Gingerbread Scent Notes: Sticky gingerbread, autumn spices, and frosting. This smells exactly like a Gingerbread Loaf my English Grandmother used to make during the colder months, the sweetness of black treacle and spice is all there with a generous layer of vanilla custard. I don't associate this fragrance with Christmas, this is a fall type of "gingerbread"; an icing encased bouncy thick cake versus a drier traditional cookie. The owner cleverly nailed the Sleepy Hollow theme with this well-executed Olde Fashioned Gingerbread, I can easily imagine this cake aroma wafting from a side table in a quaint 18th-century country village; it's perfect. When it comes to the formula of this soap, my sensitive skin just drinks in this soap and I'm so happy I went for the larger bar as I can enjoy this delight anytime during the year with no breakouts to worry about. The Sleepy Hollow Soap Sample Pack (6) collection Another over the moon experience with this amazing little shop! This soap sample collection was the perfect option for me as I had the chance to try every delightful and devilish offering of the Sleepy Hollow release. The sizes of the bars were still extremely generous and I can easily see receiving months worth of use for mere pennies! Each sample carries its own character and the artistry that goes into each soap creation (and packaging/presentation) needs to be applauded. The swirls, peaks and colourful flashes just easily catch the eye and these slabs of historical and literature inspiration would look divine displayed in a guest bathroom ready to welcome all home for the holidays. The Headless Horseman Scent notes: Dragon's blood resin, earth & moss As it says on the tin, sweet dragon's blood cut thru with rich notes of earth and rusted metal (depending how your nose interprets patchouli). It's a clever simple fragrant medley made all the more striking with the vibrant shades of orange, yellow and red layered with charcoal creating the impression of rising flames within the bar. Another beautiful piece of scented bath art to recommend that not only looks attractive displayed on the bath ledge but gently treats those of us with sensitive skin and has added benefits of charcoal for troubled skin as well. Almond Plum and Apple Crumble Scent Notes: Toasted Almonds, Sugared Plums & Sweet Apples My favourite sample out of the bunch and fingers crossed this delectable fragrance will return next year in a hair oil or perfume because this one is good enough to tempt a bite out the soap bar and I would love to be wrapped all around with this fruity delight from head to toe. I enjoy canning and baking during the colder months and Almond Plum and Apple Crumble smells exactly like the real thing with cooked plums and apple simmering in the pot and a soft crumbly almond crust and a sprinkle of cinnamon. Just like Olde Fashioned Gingerbread I can imagine this aroma wafting from an 18th-century New England sideboard ready to be devoured by all those welcome to the table. A must-try if you love realistic plum or dark fruit scents. Sleepy Hollow Pumpkin Pie Scent Notes: Spiced Pumpkin & Apple Pie with Butterscotch This one is for those that love the sweet in life and not so much the spice. I was looking for a pungent rich spiced pumpkin fragrance to wash away my anxieties and ease my tight muscles, but I get more thick butterscotch, traditional pie crust and sweet apple than creamy warm pumpkin. I'll happily stick with Olde Fashioned Gingerbread and Almond Plum and Apple Crumble for those days I need to float away. Olde Fashioned Gingerbread Scent Notes: Sticky gingerbread, autumn spices, and frosting. *Addendum to above, in addition to it smelling like thick moist cake, it has the bonus of having real cocoa powder between the layers. Watch it (and others) being made here I love watching soap making videos, it's like baking only with a fragrant bubbly bar you get to rub all over yourself and can forget about the pesky extra calories (let's explore that thought, they seriously need to create edible soap bars; that and smell-o-vision)! Mists & Magic Scent Notes: Earl Grey Tea & Vanilla Bathing in tea and I'm one happy lady. This smells realistic with soft lemony tea and a non-gourmand vanilla undertone that is lovely and unexpected. This is another blend I would love to own a hair oil in and see a perfume for others. I'm not surprised this particular bar sold out so quickly. The Pickety Witch (soap and perfume oil) Scent Notes: Warm & Rich Amber, Vanilla & Clove *a sample vial was found tucked into my purchased order all done up in a fitting black organza bag) The Pickety Witch, The Pickety Witch. Who's got a kiss for The Pickety Witch? Hehe oh this one is a bit naughty and mysterious. It's only 3 listed notes but these are blended marvellously together and I get this heated stickiness and some unlisted floral (rose or violet?) underneath the romantic vanilla. The clove stays true and adds a dry warmth to the sweeter notes and in regards to the longevity, The Pickety Witch still turns my head 5 hours later. The soap bar version of this fragrance all the previous positives are true with the bonus of the romantic vanilla amplified slightly to my nose. It's a sultry bath delight made all the more relaxing with the gorgeous black, gold and purple swirls in the bar you can just lose yourself in. Country Market Crafts Blame it on the Peanut Butter craving again (haha) as I found myself at yet another doorway to a new house of fragrance in the hopes of smelling like one of life's wonderful guilty pleasures. Leave-In Hair Conditioner / Detangling Spray in Peanut Butter Cookie As it says on the tin, this smells like a freshly baked Peanut Butter Cookie, right down to the perfect golden underside, but the scent only lasts 10 seconds in my hair before disappearing completely and leaving softness and impressive manageability for my long mane. My thick waist-length hair acts as a sponge when it comes to different scents so I shouldn't be surprised. My bottle is nearly empty a month later so even with that unfortunate negative of the scent disappearing it's still safe to say this purchase was an absolute winner when it comes to the formula. Next time I'll go with Snickerdoodle or something heavily spiced or fruit laced. Delicious lesson learned. Bath Bomb in Sleepy Time Scent Notes: Lavender, Chamomile and Lily of Valley *a surprise gift with purchase sample Every time I step into my water-filled sanctuary and all my cares float away in a fragrant cloud of vibrant coloured bubbles, I always ask myself "how on earth I have gone this far in life without trying bath bombs?" They are seriously heaven sent and this shop's formula is impressive, very gentle plus long-lasting with the fragrance that is both sweetly herbal and floral. It's another lovely addition to my favourite things in my bath to recommend. *Reviews composed in October 2020 There is nothing like a good long soak and wanting to wrap yourself in a blanket of comforting fragrance especially during this most wonderful time of the year. Others may seek apple, teas or grab for cottony linen scents to fulfill those wishes, but for me, I hunt for warm spice and delicious pumpkin and wow, did I find a whole trove of fragrant autumnal delights this year. This is Part I of the reason I have no desire to leave my tub and am continually tempted throughout the day to nibble my hair, haha. Alchemic Muse (also on ETSY) Pumpkin Lilac hair mist/styling spray (scent notes: A rich, sweet blend with whispers of lilac petals and autumn lily flowers followed by a heart of pumpkin seeds, spicy coriander, cinnamon sugar and cashmere vanilla and anchored with notes of amber, cedar wood and sheer musk.) This hidden little gem of a store excels at creating stunning floral blends and quasi-gourmands and my hair mist of Pumpkin Lilac was a perfect example at the artistry this shop can offer, as it showcases creamy sweet spice, herbs and lovely ghostly florals and soft timeless elegance. I can't stop carefully spritzing my curls and huffing the comforting sugared spice. The formula is gentle though effective as I can set marcel waves or pinup curls easily overnight. I do have to watch how much I spray as I can easily turn full bouncy glossy looking strands in the mirror to straight greasy weighted down tendrils. It's a constant balancing act with my finicky hair, but after 4 bottles from this charming little shop I think I have it down and I keep reaching for this formula. I did notice with Pumpkin Lilac the fragrance doesn't have the thick floral throw that my bottles of Ostara and Dreamcatcher can produce with an extra accidental spritz. Another curious thing to jot down is the divine aroma in the bottle is getting stronger by the week. I would love this scent in a perfume or soap bar. Fingers crossed it returns next year. Pumpkin Cocoa perfume (A scrumptious treat of freshly carved pumpkin drizzled with rich Belgian chocolate and cocoa absolute lightly dusted with warm spice.) *a sample vial found nestled in my order Just like the hair mist fragrance, this perfume is gaining strength every day and I'm in love as this one is absolutely delectable. Pumpkin Cocoa opens with realistic dry cocoa and floured pumpkin cookies sprinkled with cinnamon then morphs throughout the day to mouthwatering hidden gooey marshmallow. I think we have a new autumnal favourite here and the starting of another mass of samples because I MUST now explore Alchemic Muse's full Pumpkinfest collection. This Pumpkin Whore is impressed! This next indie bath shop is somewhat familiar in a unique way as the owner is none other than B Perry and the original owner and creator of Villainess Soap, so I knew I was already in a mistress's realm with self pampering bath treats and I waited excitedly for their pumpkin option to appear on my screen. In the meantime I learned all I could about the distinct dessert menu type of choices before deciding on a layering combination with the 'Pinup Pumpkin'. I initially only planned to purchase one pot to introduce myself to Sugar Spider's soap and scrub formulas and fragrances but what can I say? So many combinations called me with their sweet siren calls and then I finished off each bath confection with something called Glitterkruimel (one of the best decisions I made that month)! Here were my final choices and thoughts. Sugar Spider Body Scrubs Jar 1 with layers of: Topping of Glitterkruimmel Pinup Pumpkin (Creamy pumpkin, tangy cheesecake, a sweet caramel sauce, and a flirty touch of spice) Devil's Food (Dark chocolate, more chocolate, some cake, and a bitter splash of espresso.) Pinup Pumpkin (Creamy pumpkin, tangy cheesecake, a sweet caramel sauce, and a flirty touch of spice) Chantilly Crème Ganache (Smooth, sweet vanilla bean and other delights) This particular concoction smells of pumpkin latte and sweet pretzels and the consistency is just fascinating as it comes out of the jar as part sticky pliable dough and sugar paste. A spoon was required and completed this fun illusion of enjoying some fantastical dessert. The scrub itself has a perfect balance of polish and fragrant sparkles. I feel so pampered and this scrub did a phenomenal job on my elbows and heels. Now that's how to wash away a lousy week and start anew. Jar 2 with layers of: Topping of Glitterkruimmel Pinup Pumpkin (Creamy pumpkin, tangy cheesecake, a sweet caramel sauce, and a flirty touch of spice) Ghost Chocolate (Stark white chocolate haunted with a breath of cardamom.) Pinup Pumpkin (Creamy pumpkin, tangy cheesecake, a sweet caramel sauce, and a flirty touch of spice) Blue Marshmello Ganache (Sweet, sticky, marshmallow fluff) Jar 1 was lovely, but Jar 2 is simply sublime! I get my spice and luscious pumpkin cheesecake (complete with a hint of graham cracker) along with the unmistakable aromas of creamy tempered white chocolate and fresh marshmallows. I want to eat the contents and I can't get my nose out of jar, haha (I did end up with a bit of glitterkruimmel on my nose as my reward for my childlike antics and I had a good laugh in the mirror later that night). For this scent confection, the warm spice is offset by the creaminess of the cheesecake and white chocolate with a heavenly marshmallow finish. As I explored each layer I noticed the "ganaches" are a softer soap with powdered sugar added and would gently foam when rubbed on the skin. Overall I'm completely enamoured and will be ordering more jars, Speculoos, Peppermint Schtick, Dead Lilacs and of course moar PINUP PUMPKIN, all call me! I'm going to chock up this next venture to a new house of fragrance to the rising full moon in Taurus at the end of October and my insatiable sweet tooth that has switched to my nose as I must be coated in a lasting peanut butter perfume. Arcana Wildcraft's various scent potions are legendary in the indie community and I have been curious about this shop for well over a few years and 2020 was the right time to explore. I first messaged the owner to see if any bottle of a particular peanut butter cheesecake scent I read so many glowing reviews about (and admittedly have been lusting after over a year) still existed and to my utter delight the owner responded promptly that she had a bottle and would sell it to me in a custom order (very courteous and genuine customer service which I greatly appreciate). A few days later I raced out to my mailbox and was over the moon with not one bottle but a mini vial of the infamous Haint slid out of the carefully wrapped envelope and nifty quality stickers and a tiny tarot card that you collect with each order! I had to stop myself slathering then and now as I wanted to do this experience right and left my bottles with gorgeous woodcut images sitting on my vanity table to rest after their long journey and made my way for work. These were my thoughts after some gentle aging. One Note At A Time: Spell IV: Elixir (A delicious Kitchen Witch bakery blend to bring increased sweetness to your life. Rich peanut butter cheesecake spiked with dark cacao bean, German chocolate, and whipped cream.) In the bottle I get the unmistakable aroma of decadent dark chocolate brownie batter, sweetened peanut butter and a swirl of caramel sauce and that exact recipe of notes stays true on my skin 10 seconds and then my skin chemistry makes those top accords disappear and I amp the buttery graham cracker, cream cheese, heavy whipped cream topping and a hidden drop of sandalwood for a good 15 hours. My search ultimately continues for a lasting peanut butter perfume, however, I'm extremely impressed with this bottle and found for myself one scrumptious fragrance to wear before bed and to recommend. I can't wait to explore more of this shop's catalogue and seasonal collections (I have feeling this is only the beginning of many reviews and study of accords). Haint (The sweet, melancholy essence of a Southern ghost drifting through dark mountain hollows and crumbling neo-classical mansions. White musk, vanilla musk, Madagascar vanilla, sugarcane, and a faint trail of white pepper.) All I can say, is the tales are true. Haint is something special! On opening a wash of clean white musk takes a bit to settle then a vanilla powdered sugar with a lemony magnolia-like floral heart shines through and I'm beaming as I waltz about the work floor. The various listed vanillas morph from sweet and creamy to so delicate that I forget I have any perfume on until the earthy warmth of the pepper and white amber catch my attention at different points throughout the night. I feel so pretty and "natural" in Haint, it just may be my next fancy event fragrance (when and if we ever can travel safely). This perfume is the equivalent of a classic pearl strand or ear drops; it compliments anything it touches with a hint of elegance and bygone romance. Arcana Wildcraft We all have those guilty pleasure films that may not have been seen as cinematic gold in others' eyes but for you, you can't get enough of those certain types of mind-rotting-entertainment. It's candy for the brain and Jawbreaker (1999), is one of my ultimate guilty pleasure movies that matches perfectly to those criteria. Let me take you back and remind you a bit of time trip...(come on, indulge an old lady, this is all I have) We are at the final days of a millennium about to celebrate a full century of innovation, growth and advancements in technology (we aren't quite panicking just yet about changing over the 000's in our computer systems or Y2K Computer Bug- that comes in a few months and I slept right through New Years), medicine and industry (Oh Napster released that year!) etc and hey roller rinks and Butterfinger BBs still exist. There are strobbing silver lights, boy bands in baggy clothing, thumping night club scenes, bleached tips, and metallic clothing (plus lots of white pants) in about every music video and there's Madonna dancing with Austin Powers. It was a fun time for sure especially for those of us just learning our tastes with our cd players and which vhs tapes to grab at Blockbuster. It was a wide range of genres of movies that year but for me, Jawbreaker somehow captured that magical time what with the flashy pin-up 1950's styled clothing in daring neons mixed so perfectly with the 1990's grudge goth aesthetic (did anyone else race out to try to find a purple neckerchief and a nail polish named 'decay' or 'demented'?) and the quirky bubblegum murder meangirl plot serving as the body (ha!) of the film, it was hard not to love it, quote it and still think about. Enter Sixteen92 in the summer of 2020 announcing the grand reveal of the Summer 6th Anniversary collection. One look and I knew what I was bringing home. One Note At A Time: BEAUTIFUL. POPULAR. LOVED. FEARED. (Moonflower, tiare, bitter almond, blond woods, heat lightning, asphalt) In the film there are scenes of transformation and lovely manipulation at play and this perfume begins with the turn of the sun on wet bedraggled green sprouts that with attention would dominate a garden of followers er flowers. Very clever. The bitter almond and intoxicating white florals just lie under the all illuminating sun then all reveals the dangerous poisonous side that is still highly addictive and impossible to not be drawn to. I thankfully don't get any asphalt but there is a nifty morphing impression of metal in this perfume that hits out of the blue, just like a betrayal from someone you so wanted to believe and idolize. HAVE YOU MET VYLETTE? (Shy violet, pale leather, soft patchouli, fiddlehead fern, white rose, a crack of black pepper) On opening a familiar realistic greenhouse fern note from Serres d'Auteuil greets the nose along with a sweetness of a fresh white rose then ever slowly this perfume spins in some seductive leather, violet and punch of black pepper that adds underlying warmth and viola instant mysterious popularity on my vanity table. Have You Met Vylette? was made for us wallflowers that have a secret side that we just a nudge to reveal. Remember my fellow wallflowers, we hold the power and on a clear day, baby you can see tomorrow. PEACHY F-CKING KEEN (Peach preserves, white nectarine, black raspberry, syrupy benzoin, vanilla musk, rum) So who wants to sashay about smelling like a Fuzzy Navel drink? Those devilishly deceptive (though delicious) soft cocktails get me in trouble at weddings so unless I'm home and 'Pour Some Sugar On Me' or 'Hurricane' is thumping in the background, I can't wear this out as I amp this little number to the heavens and back and my coworkers would think I'm a lush, haha. I do love the spiked peach and additional dark fruit in this and appreciate it doesn't turn to raunchy cat urine on me, the listed vanilla musk will unexpectedly reappear in another purchased blend that I will get to rambling about in awhile. Overall, this is a Friday night or Saturday type of scent when you are up to no good and feel like strutting down a hallway like you own the burning world even in your pajamas. THE PRINCESS DI OF REAGAN HIGH (Coconut milk, star jasmine, pink birthday cake, warm honey, white amber) The Princess Di of Reagan High was the reigning queen of my summer fragrances in 2020 but she also can make a delightful cameo appearance now and again in the cold cruel months as the sweet, bright and delectable notes help banish the winter blahs and distract me from the looming 5-foot snowdrifts out my window. When it comes this perfume the coconut milk has thankfully mellowed and softened even more after all these months and the strawberry almond vanilla cake with drizzled golden honey and a warm white amber base shines through and tempts me to whip up a thick strawberry cake from scratch for the neighbors just because. The crunchy sugary topping is amping with lovely intensity this morning and stokes some hidden impulse to spread joy around, be liked by the community and put frills and ruffles on (again) just because and stick my head out the frozen over window risking serious wind rash and whistle to the birds so they could help me bake (they would probably tweet back some type of obscenity about it not being spring yet and stop bothering them). Yes, my fellow gloomy little hearts, this perfume makes you want to feel and be kind and want to turn into a crazed Snow White others would probably want to kill (use with caution). PROM QUEEN (White chrysanthemum, sticky honeysuckle, cherry limeade, red lollipop, smudged mascara, innocent cashmere, blood accord) I mentioned smelling and feeling like a crazed Snow White how about a demented Prom Queen with a big secret? Now at first this vial when it initially arrives is sickeningly sweet and tart with the cherry limeade and candy swirling underneath and an absence of any listed florals, but give Prom Queen several months of gentle aging and she will reveal her freaky even dare I say kinky side. For me, this one still opens with playful sticky sweet tartness of a melting popsicle then something sinister just hiding under the faux exterior of candy reveals in about an hour realistic floral petals, wet makeup and a tang of copper blood! This is the first time I have smelled realistic blood in a Sixteen92 scent creation and I love it and wish it to be found more in this indie's catalogue. There is also something to akin to draping material as well I can detect and I totally get the scent story of Prom Queen now. I KILLED THE TEEN DREAM (Vanilla bean ice cream, pink spun sugar and marshmallow, white cake crumbs, candied citron, a cracked jawbreaker, duct tape and gunpowder) And the award goes to for the most unique candy themed perfume I have ever smelled...Wowza! I Killed The Teen Dream (deal with it) is a wild ride. It's playful and inviting yet (cleverly) deceptively unnerving and twisted underneath perfectly matching the opening sequence and scenes of Jawbreaker. On me, the almost powdery creamy layer of candy shells and delicate citron amplifies first and the unmistakable aroma of sticky chemical glue from duct tape shortly follows. I don't get any gunpowder or ice cream which is a little disappointing, however, I do get Sixteen92's infamous mouthwatering marshmallow accord and it replaces the citron and lasts well into the next morning along with the return of a candy shell that reminds me of nostalgic easter baskets. I knew this perfume was going to be off the wall but I didn't expect anything like this and this is why Indies exist- to create one of kind scent potions that not only tell a commanding story but hit all the senses. No one else could have brought this type of perfume to life. Brava, Sixteen92! They F**ing Forgot My Birthday (Wedding cake, orange blossom honey, burned sugar, soft vanilla musk, unlit birthday candles, would you stop feeling sorry for yourself?) Here it is THE scent that launched a thousand reviews and set the indie world ablaze last year and it smells like I'm being smothered by 90's powdery sweet My Little Pony toys. Great. Sadly, this was the biggest disappointment purchase of 2020 for me and I'm still cursing out my skin chemistry every time I take this coveted bottle out to test hoping this will be the day the stunning wedding cake with buttercream icing and orange blossoms will stand firm against the onslaught of a cascade of warm powdery plastic (that I'm guessing is from the "unlit birthday candles" mingling with the vanilla musk), but alas, every time it's the same outcome of me just enveloped within moments and being laid low for a full day (and half if I don't scrub fast enough) with a pinching headache. This bottle has taught me so many things and the number one lesson is, I need to be more picky in 2021. 3 things are always welcome into my home- more books, more music and more perfume and this next house of fragrance provided me with all those as their blends are inspired from various forms of fiction and genres of music which leads me to learn all I can as I sit back with each bottle. In truth, the medieval-styled artwork and their overall aesthetic initially caught my eye and the use of some extremely rare notes (lime, marigold, coriander, beeswax, fireweed, rose geranium etc.) in the oils sealed the decision to explore further and place a small introductory order from Stone & Wit. These were my impressions and certainly not my last. _______________________________________________________________ ✒️Amazing customer service practice with prompt and courteous responses (I made a 3 am purchase and failed to notice the directions of listing the samples I was interested in the order/comment box- the owner was very understanding and even sent me all the samples I was curious about after that embarrassing mistake!) ✒️Fast TAT (I ordered June 4th and had my parcel on the 8th). ✒️The sample sizes are extremely generous and arrived in these fitting brown twist top ampules (nestled inside their own box) that all play perfectly into the aesthetic. ✒️They promote ethical sourcing and are open about the ingredients and bases they use in each perfume. (for more information, these pages are fascinating reads 1 and 2) ________________________________________________________________ ✒Longevity: LONGEST- The Red Hare and Starling (10 and 8 hours on skin) SHORTEST- Doble O Nada and Blame, Etc. (2 hours on skin) All the following perfumes vary from 2 hours to the above mentioned. One Note At A Time: !Simpatico! (Description/Gathered Notes: Opens with a cool, airy rose-geranium accord, balanced with sweet and slightly earthy tobacco notes. The dry down warms up into chocolate amber and musk with a touch of dark wood notes.) !Simpatico! is a sweet Summer Playlist in a bottle for me. The description says the chocolate amber manifests of the dry down, but on me, those dreamy notes along with the distinct rose geranium open the show creating an unexpected decadence and the following dry down is this cool airy collaboration reminding me of sweet bubblegum (along with a hint of vanilla) with the spicy green leaves of geranium when you pick them from a warm windowbox as you hang out on your porch hoping to catch a glimpse of your summer crush next door. I listened to the inspiration behind this fragrance and I couldn't help but notice my playlist had a similar vibe to it, so for those curious: Gin Blossoms, Don Henley (okay The Ataris for a later remake) and Lana Del Rey all come into play when I sit back and let this bottle take me away. There is a vintage old money element under it all that has me reaching for !Simpatico! on hot summer days. Etta (Description/Gathered Notes: A dark wood accord, like well weathered ship's timbers, forms the base for the heart of sweet rum and jasmine and top note of lime juice.) I fully admit I'm a bit enamoured with this fragrance and I never like to compare different houses of fragrances together as every shop and artist is unique, but I stand by my first impression of Etta reminding me a great deal of Sixteen92's Jean. Looking at the notes, it makes no sense but I get an effervescent opening and gardenias with a kiss of tropical fruit and I had to message the owner and inquire if gardenia was unlisted, he told me it could be the combination of jasmine and cinnamon rum. Well whatever magic is at work, Etta is flipping gorgeous and tells a scent story of a character that takes no prisoners and knows she has arrived in life. It's magnetic, beautiful, a tiny bit boozy-salty which adds a certain level of maturity and I think is a lovely unisex fragrance anyone could wear. Longevity is about 4 hours and the throw isn't a cloud which I truly appreciate as Etta has been accompanying me to work when I want to feel in charge even though the world is spiralling out of control. The Red Hare (Notes: Fresh ginger, fig preserves, cherry, caramel and deep blonde suede) On application this is zippy and a bit too "perfumey" for me but after 20 minutes, wow this is pretty and delicious smelling! The Red Hare at first reminds me of another oil I own from another shop sans the rhubarb but completely transforms to another entity of a summery fruit preserve and warm caramel matchup that makes me huff my arm and go "oh, so that's what figs smell like". Sorry for the rambling it's hard to keep up with this blend, it morphs and shifts every time I sniff and has this zany fun energy about it. The cherry juice pairing with the caramel is probably my favourite part of this and the soft suede note hours later is quite unexpected and impressive overall. Doble O Nada (Notes: Soft sweet tobacco, vanilla and rum with a twist of lime) I was raised on Mafia movies (and horror movies, hehe) and this, this is good. The sweet tobacco with vanilla is one of the best examples of those together I have found in the indie realm for myself and the lime is true adding a zing of citrus to the creamy spice of the tobacco (thankfully the rum isn't running amok on me). Mmm, Doble O Nada is seductive and a bit dangerous. I'm going for a hair oil of this little number. Blame, Etc. (Description and Gathered Notes: Opens with tart and juicy pink peppercorn, balanced by herbal, sweet coriander. The pink peppercorn carries over into the heart notes: bright jasmine, spicy and leathery saffron, supported a rose accord. The dry down is smokey incense and honeyed woods.) The dry down on this perfume is stunning smelling of lush rose incense and sweetened honey with a hint of pepper but alas on the opening saffron dominates on my skin and can give me a huge pause and compulsion to scrub before a pinching headache develops. I've suspected for quite some time that saffron was a death note for myself and Blame, Etc. finally confirmed that and I need to remember to watch for that listing in the future. After about 15 minutes a sweetened wine aroma wafts up and welcomes my nose back to my skin and it's quite lovely as it morphs from a mysterious fruit to floral incense with rare pink pepper. I'm going to use Blame, Etc. in unscented whipped soap and let the honeyed rose incense take me away for as long as possible. Starling (Gathered Notes: Vanilla, ambrette, rose, spices, fig and pear) Oh, liquorice rose wine! This could very well be a sister scent of Candelere as there is a distinct captivating vintage element that calls for a special night out. Out of the two, Starling is a heavier oil on my skin and did take a little bit longer to settle down after it first arrived but overall is pretty and something special for the colder months. This shop executes rose and fruit notes beautifully. Candelere (Description and Gathered Notes: The berry-rose-green notes of fireweed compliment and contrast sweet yet bitter marigolds and a deep honey accord, rounded off with an earthy sandalwood accord and beeswax base with hints of vetiver and woods.) It's seldom when modern created perfumes remind me of true classical music with any lyrical spirit, so let me be the first to applaud and introduce those that know the works of Haydn to Stone & Wit's Candelere. This is airy, romantic with a dramatic vintage edge that whisks me away and I want to pile my curls up in ribbons and learn how to minuet properly with this lovely fragrance adorning my neck and wrists. For composition, my skin brings forward a powderiness with a wisp of realistic summer garden bouquet just barely underneath and the alluring beeswax is becoming stronger as Candelere is slowly aging. It's bright and expensive smelling and how I wish I had somewhere worthy to go to show off this fragrance. It calls for the best of everything. Just beautiful and I must now seek out this Molly Nosegay Chandler and read all about this character Candelere is inspired by. Stone & Wit *reviews composed in May and June 2020 I'm in a bit of silly (and hungry) mood when I'm in the presence of these oils (and names!) so just indulge me. *hums then busts out in song* I found someone to take away the heartache, to take away the loneliness (about missing out on banana and cucumber perfumes)! Any Cher fans here or more importantly any excited Nui Cobalt Designs fans present because I have some ramblings to share.
*Thank you so much, Forest and Josh, for allowing me to sample these collections! One Note At A Time: Power Down (A relaxing potion of labdanum and silken white sandalwood adorned with delicate lavender buds and a wisp of clary sage. Anoint your pulse points to alleviate stress, restore your peace of mind, and help you unwind.) On first application Power Down reminds me of another delightful relaxing creation by Nui Cobalt called Tryptophan with a caramel-like butteriness present, but that slight impression disappears as few moments in, an unexpected fizzy lavender aroma appears and pulls my nose down to my wrist to stay. I'm still learning to identify resins so I apologize if the "fizzy" description sounds odd, it smells almost lemony without a trace of bitterness or a pucker-quality if you will, mixed with freshly harvested lavender buds. The listed sage arrives after the long dry down and completes the picture of witchy relaxation. Charisma Bonus (A seriously sexy fragrance to ensnare the objects of your desire. Spiced black patchouli languishing in vanilla honey with scattered ylang petals and catnip leaves. Wear this potion to make an excellent first impression, to capture the attention of influential people, or to inspire passion during amorous encounters.) You would think by now I would be able to identify ylang or could completely fully break down every note composition with one wave of the wrist, not so as these oils continue to retain and hide their secrets and I'm perfectly content with still being in awe with these types of blends. So with saying that, Charisma Bonus smells like spiced vanilla and dark honey that goes into the seductive mysterious realm versus landing in a gourmand area and this is what secretly I was hoping Sultry would have smelled like on me. My old friend patchouli anchors this medley and keeps the longevity of Charisma Bonus going for a full 15 hours on my skin and I know sandalwood isn't listed, but something is reminding me of fine wood in Charisma Bonus and a unique vintage quality is noticeable as well; they don't make fragrances like this anymore. For wearability, I won't waste this spicy little number on those at work, this is meant to entice and then conquer. Bollocks 2020 (An indulgent scent to help you keep a sense of humor when dealing with liars. Banoffee Pie: golden toffee conjured from sweetened condensed milk, sauteed spiced bananas, and a crumbly crust of butter biscuits.) What it says on the tin and this is an indulgence that has certainly surprised me as a first for myself, I now have a banana perfume to recommend! Nothing is nauseating or obnoxiously candy-like in Bollocks and on me, I get a soft wash of pure diced banana on top of vanilla toffee pudding and decadent buttery crushed graham crackers. Everything is incredibly realistic smelling and I'm thrilled that as lovely as the banana is it backs away and then fades letting the spiced buttery graham cracker come forward. The more I sniff the more I love this fragrance and I'm so happy I tried something out of my comfort zone. Odin's Eye (A powerful blend for wisdom and strategy. Iced blueberry, cedarwood, birch, crushed peppercorn, cardamom, frozen musk and white amber. Anoint pulse points and Third Eye to ignite the fire of the mind and access cosmic knowledge.) In the vial, intoxicating blueberries hit my nose and I almost spill my entire sample in my excitement to slather this blend (I'm weak for a good berry note and Nui Cobalt's has some of the best fruit accords). Once slowly applied the realistic blueberry rises along with masculine cedar with a hint of spice and I'm swept away to visions of enjoying cold freshly picked blueberries under towering ancient trees with a Viking warrior. Oh, Odin's Eye is a wink and nod to naughty imaginings! I think I found a new scent potion to add to the sleep and relaxation drawer of my collection. Blarney (A bracing scent to steel your nerves and keep you calm in the face of mendacity. Irish Breakfast Tea: the warm, tannic comfort of proper Cuppa sweetened just enough with a touch of honey and smoothed with cream.) I'm still a tea novice so I can't comment on how true Blarney smells of Irish Breakfast Tea, but I do get the familiar scent of black tea and a clean citrus undernote. There is a unique historical element to Blarney that turns my head when I'm going about my day and I know exactly where to feature this blend when the times comes. As this oil is aging more of the honey and cream appears after a few hours overall making this a lovely soothing scent, perfect for a rainy day like today. Sophistry (A refreshingly tart aroma to wake you up and get you going. Chilled sparkling lemonade infused with elderflower blossoms, thinly sliced cucumber, and a pinch of grated ginger root. Wear to guard against fatigue and burnout.) It has taken me weeks to figure out what this blend smells like on me and I finally have it- rained over cucumber vines in the garden! It's uncanny how true Sophistry smells of my memories of being asked to bring in an armful of cucumbers from our home garden, I can even smell the realistic dark skin of the vegetable. I didn't think it was possible to capture that distinct peppery green aroma, but there it is and not one recall of soap to note, this is an unexpected atmospheric. A few hours after dabbing on Sophistry, the tart-sweet lemonade appears along with a delicate floral and I'm falling for this perfume. This smells like summer country gardening to me and I'll be reaching for it in the hotter months. I need to stop fearing cucumber (and banana) and need to start collecting more of those blends now from Nui Cobalt Designs. Flim Flam (A beautifully balanced concoction to ease anxiety and calm the mind. Lush Phillipine mango with steamed sticky rice and a decadent drizzle of coconut syrup. Wear to settle down, center yourself, and see with clarity.) How intriguing! This really does smell like steamed rice, fruit and coconut. If I were to ever go to a beach I would wear Flim Flam with its playful tropical elements. I don't have anything that smells like this in my collection, what a find. I was admittedly a tad concerned that the mango was behaving like peach does on my skin at first but thankfully it settled right down and melded very prettily with the starchy wet rice and smooth coconut adding just a little punch of fruit. I can see why Flim Flam is becoming a run away smash of the April Fool's 2020 collection. Horsefeathers 2020 (A sumptuous scent to help you keep your cool when people try to pull the wool over your eyes. A traditional Arctic Roll: vanilla bean ice cream wrapped in a blanket of yellow sponge cake and a layer of vibrant red raspberry jam.) *I am lucky enough to have also the 2019 version and I cannot tell the difference. Can I just say that this shop executes gourmands beautifully and Horsefeathers is another where I could lick my arm. In the vial, this one is a bit syrupy smelling versus spreadable jam but once Horsefeathers has a few moments to settle on my skin this oil takes on a buttery cake quality with freshly crushed raspberries spread on top and it quickly shoots to one of the top raspberry cake perfumes I have tried. I tend to amplify the buttery cake with decadent raspberry jam but hours later a clear vanilla ice cream aroma wafts up from my wrists and makes me dance in my chair. A great introductory perfume to this magical house of fragrance and I plan to gift a coworker (who has been fortunate enough to travel to the UK and dine on some of these desserts from the April Fool's Collection) with one of these vials as she loves raspberry scents and all things bakery themed. Fingers crossed I finally will have someone to go indie shopping with and can get excited with (even mark our calendars) over new perfume releases. Spreading the Indie Love one stunner at a time! Yemaya (Mother Ocean, Protectress of Children and Guardian of the Home. We honor you with ocean air and sea foam sweetened with coconut, pound cake, and fresh watermelon.) Another fruit laced blend that is as it says on the tin. I get every listed note with Yemaya and the watermelon is freshly sliced hunks dripping juice (no jolly rancher candy here which I was worried about). I went for a walk wearing this perfume and I immediately snapped my head and nose to attention when a surprise salty whipped cream note appeared after 30 minutes. I have never been to or seen an actual ocean or beach but I could easily imagine a romantic victorian-esque painting of gaily decorated attendees having a brunch of sliced watermelon, pound cake with shaved coconut and one couple sneaking off to lick whipped cream off each other's hands as they stare at the rolling waves. A full 2 hours later, Yemaya curiously reminds me of a salty Robin's Egg (I think it's the whipped cream and vanilla). Just lovely. Achievement Unlocked (A bold blend of Mahogany and Merlot with tart elderberry and a single long-stemmed rose. Wear this sumptuous scent to amplify your confidence and hone your skills. Anoint the tools of your trade to move you swiftly toward success.) In the vial and on opening Achievement Unlocked smells similar to my beloved Exsanguinated, however, the mahogany amplifies more in this oil making this oil more of a brother scent of Under the Mistletoe if I search my notes. I do get a beautiful bloom of realistic rose (complete with promised green stem) about 2 hours after application and the elderberry adds a boozy mix to this oil that I enjoy. I'm still overall undecided on Achievement Unlocked to be completely honest. It's a keeper, I'm just not sure where to place it in the box for wear. Poppycock (A bright fragrance to banish confusion and illuminate the whole truth. Lemon Meringue Pie: frothy citrus sweetness in a toasted almond crust, with white vanilla peaks gently browned under a blowtorch). Poppycock is a sugary lemon scent confection that shifts to varying degrees of desserts on my wrists and crooks of my arms. It's not waxy or sharp and I get either vanilla cake with decorative swirls of citrus or textbook perfect whipped lemon meringue with a crunchy almond shell. The longevity is also impressive as this scent fades in about 4 to 5 hours on my skin making this the longest-lasting lemon dessert perfume I have found yet for myself (usually lemon dessert oils are gone on me before I leave the house). There is also a distinct heavenly smoke note with toasted almonds that is last to leave me for the night. Hoodwink (A soothing scent for rest and replenishment. A tall glass of Thai iced tea sweetened with Tupelo honey and swirled with vanilla rice milk. Wear for relaxation and to get a good night’s sleep.) Oh my, Hoodwink is going to be another smash hit, I know it. On me, I get bright floral/pollen honey with distinct brewed black tea and vanilla (something reminding me of an expensive latte in the mix as well) all in the background. It also stays close which is ideal for work as I can sniff to my heart's content and be taken away with this soothing medley. As the hours tick by, this perfume turns more creamy and dreamy completing this summertime escape fragrance. I adore this and Forest is the Queen of Tea Scents in my book! Arctic Fox (A sexy little number to inspire snuggles on the coldest nights. Soft amber nestled in sumptuous cashmere, steamed rice milk, winter white musk, and snow-covered fir trees.) Another vial I'm not entirely sure about as when applied I receive, soft white soap and a hint of pine. I was hoping for warm milk and amber with pine needles, to be honest. As Arctic Fox sits on the skin, more of a creamy powderiness reveals itself and I may just hang onto this vial until next winter and try again. There is something about this oil I love (perhaps the cool creaminess and amber?) Bibliophilia (The love of Books.The vanillic scent of aging paper, the tang of fresh ink, venerable bookshelves of oak and mahogany, a sweet trace of pipe tobacco, an undercurrent of faded leather. Wear this subtle potion to invoke spirits of arcane knowledge and empower your perceptions.) I mean this all in the best way, this smells like what I could only imagine the desk and library of Agatha Christie or Jessica Fletcher to smell like. I get the metallic tang of real typewriter ink, the unmistakable vanillic aroma of a stack of aged papers and realistic worn leather from a well-thumbed tome. There is also a vintage perfume-esque undernote that makes me think of the contents of an old black leather handbag laying on a side chair. I want to go reread a classic murder mystery now! Another impressive and oddly soothing blend from this collection. Loot (This time-honored formula attracts wealth from hidden and unexpected sources. It's an excellent assistant in acquiring assets, both monetary and otherwise. Use to greatly increase the flow of wealth into your life, especially in financially dire situations. It has a particular penchant for landing those dream jobs that seem out of reach. Loot is handcrafted and charged as the Aries moon trines Jupiter in Sagittarius. This celestial connection opens doors that didn't exist and lights the path to affluence. Bayberry bark and dragon's blood with Ceylon cinnamon and two luxuriant vanillas.* Do not apply to skin if you are sensitive to cinnamon.) I fully admit I went a bit wild over Loot when it arrived as it was a unique heavenly cinnamon and rich bayberry bark bomb I wanted to pour over my head but alas gentle aging has tamed this beast and it's sadly a bit forgettable now. That's not the point though and I'm going to keep this oil home and sprinkle it in my unscented whipped soap at different points of the year. The history and preparation of this blend are fascinating to read about. Liquid Luck (Made with wild-harvested four-leaf clovers, this potion confers great good fortune upon its wearer. A gorgeously green bouquet of night air and dewy grass, charmed galbanum and benzoin, Irish moss, carrot seed, living shamrock and freshly turned earth.) In the vial and on my skin I get sunshine warmed clover and wet morning moss. It calls back to some play sessions out in the garden as a child just with my back being cushioned by bouncy green growth and staring at scuttling clouds and rainbow shifting coloured bubbles dancing on the winds. Liquid Luck is a comforting hug of nature and innocent times you desperately wish you could revisit. As this oil sits on the skin it sweetens then on me the carrot seed comes out to play before fading at the 3 hour mark. I'm hoping to find I will have better luck with this blend in my hair and I can smell like those clover, queen anne's lace and daisy chain coronets I remember knotting together after I recovered a special key from my grandfather's garage and escaped to my own secret garden (that was only an old rusty spider-webbed covered door on the side of the shed no one ever used). Anyone else still refer to young tree branches as "wick"? Wow, I haven't thought about those garden ventures in decades, Liquid Luck truly is something special and conjures some unexpected smiles. Humbuggery (An uplifting scent to keep you impervious to deception and shielded from malice. Pineapple Upside Down Cake: a delicious juxtaposition of tang and sweetness, caramelized pineapple, coconut cream, toasted hazelnut crust and baked brown sugar.) I wasn't expecting to be hit with so much personal nostalgia with these new collections, but I'm very thankful for being reminded of happier times and those that have passed. My pap loved pineapple upside down cake and Humbuggery is a spot-on representation of that distinct dessert fragrance. It's sticky yellow cake draped in golden pineapple slices, shaved coconut that later becomes custardy with the soggy parts of the bottom of the cake and a tropical sweetness hanging in the air I fondly remember as my pappy sat at the head of the wooden table with that mischievous side grin (we both share in pictures). A gentle giant in my mind and how I wish this scent would linger a little longer on my skin. More of the coconut amplifies by 4 hours and then the final note is lovely crumbs of realistic yellow cake. A nice send off. I wish I loved pineapple, but that scent for me is more about the sentimental properties it holds versus pure enjoyment. Shenanigans (A richly sensual blend for grounding and stabilizing. German Schichttorte: a sumptuous confection of layered yellow cake touched with lemon zest and rum, glazed with apricot and finished with a cloak of dark chocolate. Wear when you need to stay present and focused on the here-and-now.) Oh, the children have been put to bed and someone has been baking some wicked vanilla rum cake with a dark shiny glaze of chocolate and dotted with apricot pieces. This one is BOOZE, CAKE and APRICOT on me, whew this one is heavy on the rum. I guess I learned something new with Shenanigans as I amplify alcohol notes and ah, the name just hit me because whoever would indulge in this decadent cake would be surely up to some shenanigans they may not recall the next morning or afternoon. Ha. Now that's clever storytelling with the notes and name. As fun and a bit wicked the opening is the final dry down is marvellous, smelling of thick yellow cake with apricots on me and I love this final shift of the notes before they fade completely at the 6-hour mark. Roguery (A tres chic scent to remind you of your effortless intrinsic fabulousness. Kouign Amann: a light and elegant puff pastry that takes the simplicity of buttered sugar rolls to the height of sophistication. Wear for a boost of confidence, comfort, and radiant self-esteem.) Albeit a wonderous realistic bread aroma, Roguery isn't the baked fragrance I have been searching years for. Roguery smells more of hot buttered golden topped rolls fresh from the oven and for me, I may have a bit of fun and layer this with some pumpkin desserts and see if anyone notices. I also get a hit of possible anise or almond (something reminding me of a subtle bite of liquorice). I'm going to keep this savoury buttered oil home and slather it on for sleep. Hindsight (An energizing blend to strengthen the memory. Green tea, galangal, rosemary, sandalwood, and nutmeg. Wear to invigorate the intellect and banish brain fog. It is particularly helpful when the mind is scattered by fatigue.) Just as I found in Higher Mind 2019, this an oil to grab when I want to put my thinking-cap on and get work done. This is a citrus spice and distinct scent of rosemary to Hindsight that grabs my immediate attention and I think I have indeed found a sister scent to Higher Mind 2019. The Green Tea adds a tannic zip to the base notes of sandalwood and nutmeg; never resembling soap. Everything is so well blended and I can't wait to stick my nose into a vial of Lightning Bug which also has green tea listed. Bamboozle (A sweet scent for hope and optimism. Baklava: diaphanous layers of flakey, golden pastry, toasted pistachio, roasted chestnut, crushed almond, and a generous drizzle of spring harvest honey. Wear to banish discouragement and brighten dispositions.) I know in the official video regarding the April Fool's 2020 collection, Forest mentioned she doesn't exactly like doing gourmands, which I can respect but can I say, that is a crying shame because she is so flipping brilliant at that category of fragrances and Bamboozle is another triumph! This oil begins with the distinct aroma of wet nut roll dough then the pistachio, chestnut and almond make up a delicious salty trio of pleasure and I want to lick my wrist. The honey appears a short while later and it does smell flakey and golden. Needless to say, Bamboozle is a winner and one delectable perfume to recommend. Balderdash (An ebullient scent to lift your mood when the bastards try to get you down. Cherries Jubilee: jewel-bright Montmorency cherries poached in brandy and drizzled while still warm over vanilla ice cream.) The true aroma of Cherry is a hard thing to bottle and release in perfume and here in Balderdash, Forest has soothed and conquered the mythical creature as there is not one resemblance of cherry cough syrup in this oil *claps*. Whew, there is some hooch mingled with the realistic cherries though and I think this imaginary baker was taking a strong nip while creating a sweet fruit masterpiece, haha. I can forgive that, it adds a punch and matureness to this perfume, I mean who honestly hasn't taken a nip while they were baking with liquor (one thumbful for the bowl and 3 for the baker, haha). My chemistry must love alcohol notes. The promised vanilla ice cream (along with unlisted coconut?) becomes noticeable on me about an hour later and the longer Balderash is gently aging, the more I love this scent potion and can easily see why it is so popular. Another fruit-scented creation to recommend! Foresight (A mystical blend for prognostication and planning. Angelica, precious saffron, orris root, sage leaves, heliotrope, eyebright, and a subtle touch of star anise. Wear this blend when plotting the course toward big dreams and long-term goals. It has a knack for navigating around potential obstacles and delays.) If there was a note I would run away with and marry, it would be star anise (forgive me, pumpkin!). There is some mysterious seductive element to that spice I want to hoard now and forever and on me, anise is the star of the show in Foresight. I love these types of morphing blends, I say that because Foresight starts off smelling cold, green and even like clear stream water with a hint of sassafras then the naughty star anise materializes out of nowhere, hood sweeping back revealing its true side to me and I know this sounds odd, but Foresight is what I could only imagine a rippled dream to smell like (complete with a trace of mystical incense on the edge). Another exciting and surprise favourite. Mmm, everyone can leave me with this one. I'm just missing a huge pile of satin pillows to flop back against and lose myself in as I huff my wrists and hair. _____________________________________________________________________ The first perfume I opened from Nui Cobalt Designs was Little Brown Rabbit and that sent that single vial sent me of a whirlwind year of collecting and researching all about this magical house of fragrance and here we are a year later with more to add to my little fragrance menagerie. *the following were purchased Ozark Hellbender (A dark and cool blend to honor your uniqueness. Watercress and wild-foraged blueberries slither through damp moss, budding birch trees, raw pecans, and coriander. Wear this fresh, nocturnal scent to invoke calm and clarity.) This one is intriguing as promised! I get sugared blueberries, watery greens and a drydown of a mixup of fruit, floral and coriander. To be honest, Ozark Hellbender reminded me a great deal of Bad Moon Rising the first couple of weeks with something in this blend reading as "violets" to me with a waxy floral (almost powdery) under the blueberries and herbs- I think it's the birch which I learning I tend to amplify. That all changed as this perfume has morphed to luscious sweet realistic blueberries and aquatic greenery and a dry "dirty" coriander under it all creating a fascinating docile watery scent overall. I was fortunate enough to actually hold a Hellbender in highschool and like those nifty creatures (they have the most adorable toes), this fragrance inspired by them is unexpected in how you think it would act. Weird is beautiful! Spring Peeper (A dynamic blend to wake you up gently and sustain your energy. Warm ginger with saffron, cardamom, coriander, and nutmeg sprinkled over unripe fig and yellow mandarin with a base of mossy mahogany. Wear to stay balanced, focused, and adaptable.) The melodic rhythmic chirping of Spring Peepers down in the hollow is the official sign of spring for me and here we have a fragrance that encompasses the essence of meditative night musings and motivational spirit of a persistent little creature. This is warm and inviting with the spices and the woody base is a perfect touch. The fig and bright yellow mandarin are noticeable in the vial and on application however meld into the background and I tend to amplify the warm woody spices. I love to use Spring Peeper for pure relaxation and when I'm listening to this perfume's inspiration long into the night. Lightning Bug (A scent that is vibrant, luminous, and alive. Budding angelica, liatrix, and blue salvia gilded with key lime and lemon verbena over green amber, green tea, and cucumber. Wear when you need to refresh and revitalize.) Lightning Bug is a quasi-atmospheric that on me smells first of realistic wet green grass and fresh (non-soapy) cucumber with peeks of "light" and "glows" from the citrus, the dry down is warm amber with a vintage twist. This is an elegant representation of summer-night nostalgia and this country girl is very pleased. Silver Fox (An elegant blend for charm, poise and decorum. White tea with honey and rice milk, almond macaron, soft grey cashmere and cool woodland musk. Wear when you must put your best foot forward and make a positive impression.) This perfume exudes a fancy vintage vibe and I'm absolutely smitten. When first applied Silver Fox smells sweet and gentle but still manages to give a good throw as my mother noticed, then 30 minutes the tea announces itself with a tannic nip along with a drop of lemon and a full 2 hours it morphs to soft creamy refinement that smells from another era. It's stunning overall, lasts through a 12-hour shift and reminds me a great deal of a few of my favourite "your skin but better" type of sophisticated scent potions by Nui Cobalt. Grey Wolf (A steely scent for unshakeable courage and impenetrable calm. White sandalwood, black amber, icy sage, cashmere, stone musk, lichen, softly smoked birchwood, grey suede, mountain springwater, and white peppercorn. Wear when you need to remember your strength and own your power.) Grey Wolf is a fantastic representation of one of my favourite animals. On opening it's cold and a bit sweet smelling with a distinct clean masculine element to this blend. Then the peppercorn melds in with the coolness of the sage, a soft trace of smoke and cashmere I recognize from other treasured vials and bottles from by Nui Cobalt, all creating the impression of a dappled grey, white and black coat slipping from the shadows. A slight greenness of lichen peeks out if I close my eyes and concentrate. For me, the true magic hits when a soft magnetic combination of smokey suede and creamy sandalwood appears on the dry down that reminds me of a great deal of Mourning Veil and Grey Wolf morphs a bit more feminine. You would think all of these listed notes would amplify and overtake a room but Forest does it again, as Grey Wolf is another glowing aura type of blend, that stays close to the skin while somehow projecting your inner self and you feel you can do anything. White-Tailed Deer (A blend for peace, tranquility, and bountiful blessings. Soft brown suede, golden musk, wild forest berries, and roasted chestnuts dusted with maple sugar.) Here it is, the blend that has blown me away with a magical cream dipped suede aroma on top of a delicious sugary berry nut and textile mixture under it all that makes no sense why it all works BUT it does. White-Tailed Deer also conjures personal memories of my days in the hollow practising archery and I'm under some fantastic spell as I don't want to put this vial down. This blend also works as a sleep scent potion as I huff my wrists and it's off to dreamland and I can still smell the creaminess sweetness 10 hours later. I don't know what could make this perfume any better, perhaps a hint of salt? Nui Cobalt Designs One Note At A Time: Sixteen92 (a selection from the Spring 2020 and Fall 2019 collections)6/25/2020
Leave it to Sixteen92 to present a gorgeous reeling of atmospheric fragrances that makes me want to dress up in all my historical finery and pretend I'm in another era in entirely as I recite iconic lines in front my vanity table. The following are ramblings about a handful of scent potions from the Fall 2019 and Spring 2020 collections inspired by horror film/books and The Golden Age of Hollywood. These various vials and ampule have been patiently waiting for months and now they are ready for their close-ups! One Note At A Time: Redrum (inspired by Stephen King's The Shining (1977)) (Description and Notes- The muffled din of a ghostly masquerade party - faint clink of champagne flutes, a ticking ebony clock, expensive furs, hazy hallways, and specters moving through shadow) On opening there is a distinct mixture of something cloying and chemical-like almost akin to polished dark shellacked wood with mothballs (maybe even tire spray?) and yet fuzzy childhood memories of exploring forgotten closets are slowly resurfacing as I sit back. I can hear the sound of the closet door rustling and resisting to completely reveal its contained secrets against the grain of a thick arsenic-green carpet as Redrum takes me back, there's disturbed dust on plastic bags in the dim light and I can definitely detect the expensive furs and sweetness of alcohol from the champagne. It's eerie and unsettling as promised and yet a little like a personal homecoming for me as I can smell a familiar beautiful vintage perfume materializing just under the strong wood and chemical aromas. I never learned the names of the bottles that adorned my Baba's vanity table but I can clearly remember the label designs and the one I'm wanting to compare Redrum to had a gold label with a red border and was in a frosted glass tall slender bottle. If only that wood and cloying chemical combination would release me and let me enjoy a revisit to the fragrant ghosts of my childhood but alas it refuses to settle and I can get an unpleasant pinching headache with Redrum. I'm still keeping this vial for future costume ideas and a bit of personal nostalgia. Darkness Was Enough (inspired by Stephen King's 'Salem's Lot (1975)) (Notes- Ancient woods, beeswax candles, spiced honey, charred amber, saffron crocus) 'Salem's Lot, the book and the movie respectively are iconic horror treats and how I wish to smell like a seductive vampire hiding deep in an abandoned house with Darkness Was Enough, but alas I smell I'm enjoying spiced tomato soup next to a guttering candle. Reading the notes this tomato soup fragrance doesn't make sense and I have been racking my brain trying to figure what this blend reminds of in my museum-sized perfume collection and it finally hit me the other morning- Pyromancy. Darkness Was Enough smells like Pyromancy only more acidic if that makes sense and has a melting candle note versus a hot metal with pepper under the tomato soup aroma. Since I already have Pyromancy in a larger size (somedays I just want to smell like a piping bowl of creepy soup!), I don't honestly know the future for Darkness Was Enough. I may put it some whipped soap or pass it along to a coworker who is still exploring Sixteen92's amazing scent artistry. Bette (inspired by Ruth Elizabeth "Bette" Davis/Bette Davis, April 5, 1908 – October 6, 1989; some of her films include: What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?, All About Eve, The Little Foxes and All This And Heaven Too) (Notes-Angel food cake, floral honey, marshmallow, pistachio, French vanilla, loose black tea) The long wait was worth it when it comes to The Golden Age collection and, in particular, this fantastic marshmallow fragrance. Bette makes her entrance with promised realistic angel food cake (heavy on the sweet almond) and crumbled pistachio on top then divine french vanilla rolls in and completely elevates this perfume from delicious to très chic! The floral honey is a drizzling over the almond cake for those concerned and on me I swear I detect a drop of creamy sandalwood blended in with the Sixteen92's famous marshmallow. Bette lasts throughout a 13 hour shift and she's just marvellous! Jean (inspired by Harlean Harlow Carpenter/Jean Harlow, March 3, 1911 – June 7, 1937; some her films include: Bombshell, China Seas, Hell's Angels and Saratoga) (Notes- White gardenia, Mexican tuberose, sparkling aldehydes, ginger ale, passion fruit, coconut water, silken musks) If you are looking for a dreamy floral-fruit fragrance that harkens back to the glitz and sparkle of Old Hollywood, look no further than Jean. This is class, allure and a bit of playful sass. Right away I get the aldehydes I recognize from Habanera and Ligeia and they meld beautifully with the buttery gardenia and soft coconut. Sixteen92's gardenia is the reason I'm an avid hunter of that note now and I'm going to say it, no one else's compares- it never smells like soap or shampoo or stale hairspray, it's just a silken floral that adds elegance to any blend it touches. The tuberose adds a slight "dirtiness" to this perfume which is just aces and researching it looks like Jean may be also a homage to Jungle Gardenia which was favoured by the elite of Old Hollywood. The passion fruit becomes more apparent on me after a few hours along with a vintage quality that stays until the final notes fade. I received multiple compliments on this perfume and I adore Jean and must have a full bottle next year (I missed the spring collection waiting for my samples to arrive then rest). Thank you to all who recommended this beauty! Marlene (inspired by Marie Magdalene "Marlene" Dietrich/Marlene Dietrich, 27 December 1901 – 6 May 1992; some of her films include: The Scarlet Empress, Witness for the Prosecution, Around the World in 80 Days and Knight Without Armour) (Notes- Alba rose, copal, bearded iris, scarlet lips, flushed cheeks, davana, plum syrup, gin fizz, smoke) I think we can all agree, scent is a suggestive and a personal experience so I hope you will forgive me for getting a bit weepy with Marlene because after a long decade I have been reunited with the exact vintage fragrance of red lipstick my Baba used to don. She wore violets like a timeless queen and I can pick out a creamy powdery floral under the lipstick on me that smells indeed of violets and there is no cough syrup to report (which can occur when violets meet my finicky skin chemistry); what wonderful magic is this?! I don't get any rose or plum for those curious and there is perhaps a wisp of separate smoke in the background, but then again I always thought real vintage lipstick had a smokiness to it. I also can just make out the smallest drop of sweet gin hiding in the long dry down. When I sit down and go through previous offerings with similar notes, Bruise Violet and Mina Harker could be called louder sister scents of Marlene and even Mein Herr Marquis could be a sister blend. I was curious if Marlene would smell like Winifred with the plum and davana, but there is no scent comparison after all these weeks. I love how soft and pretty this perfume is on me. My only lament is I wish Marlene stayed on my skin longer as it fades within two hours on me. I may need to look into a EdP option next year, this is so lovely but fleeting. Louise (inspired by Mary Louise Brooks/Louise Brooks, November 14, 1906 – August 8, 1985; some of her films include: Pandora's Box, Love 'Em and Leave 'Em, The American Venus and God's Gift to Women) (Notes- Sultry amber, red ink, black kohl, night blooms, Tonkin musk (synthetic), wormwood, soft suede, glistening strands of pearls) So Louise is fascinating as it opens similar to Bridget Bishop with the "night blooms" being cold and a bit resinous then this slinky smokey ink and soft suede medley peeks out and turns aquatic and silky. The wormwood smells like cool absinthe droplets and I've stuck my nose into enough antique jewellery cupboards to recognize the scent of old silk strands and saltiness of worn pearls that is evident in Louise on the long dry down. Louise is impressive and I'm over the moon the suede hasn't turned into a leathery chemical-bomb on me (I seem to amplify the wormwood (almost like anise/licorice), a dirty iris and silky/aquatic seductive element of this perfume). I think I finally found a suede blend from Sixteen92 I can wear on my skin versus only in my hair in small measured applications *claps*. This is another bottle I must have when the times comes, in the meantime I can't stop dabbing on this little number and dancing like no one is watching and vamping in the mirror in black lacy garters. What can I say, this Mrs. Grundy is ready to transform into a Sheba! Sixteen92 The word stunning doesn't even begin to describe my experience with Dark Tales and my necklace. Picture this, being greeted by a cascade of lovely little dried rosebuds when you open your parcel and being dazzled by the flash and glitter of tiny glowing jewels surrounding a piece of mini art that brings to mind the quote "a touch of magic in this world obsessed with science" (if you know what movie that quote is from, you are immediately my friend) which you can't wait to take out for the night in addition to no camera photograph truly capturing its strange alluring beauty. Finally to end the experience 2 beautifully presented perfume vials that hold their own stories and a corked vial of tea that promises a tannic fruit-filled escape. THAT'S what you will get with Dark Tales and I will be back for more (seriously jump on these prices while you can, you won't be disappointed!). Poison Bottle Necklace | Alchemist | Gothic | Victorian | Vampire Blood *discontinued Described as a blend of magic, dark romance and mystery and this piece is all of these things and more as it looks like it belongs on the neck of historical-fantasy's title enchantress or horror siren in a Victorian drama. The flash and glitter of the different stones allows me to match this necklace with any outfit I wish and the true strange beauty of the vial holds my attention long into the night as I can't stop staring at the intricate details and puzzling how this sealed over vial looks so much like coagulated blood (coming from a nurse to say, that is quite the feat and should be applauded as strange as that sounds) or lovely wicked poison if you are squeamish, and yet if someone were to casually glance at this piece they would only see a high-quality trinket with twinkling stones and small red glass vial; I simply love I can wear this to workplace setting and still feel elegant and entirely unique. My box also contained a few extra samples of the different kinds of curious wares this shop holds. I must also comment on the level of detail and attention that is apparent in the packaging of every product. EVERYTHING just looks like it is from some wonderful mysterious fairy tale and tied with fitting black ribbons. Perfume Oils Morning Powder (White musk, Honey Peach, Rose, Geranium and Vanilla) My skin is unfortunately sensitive to glycerin so I have been brushing a tiny bit into my hair in the morning. And this is a beautiful vintage rose that wafts around with a drop of peach and honey. I love the description on the site talking about clean morning sheets, but this oil reminds me more of a luxurious bath of tea rose petals and drop of peach juice with vanilla honey. On me, Morning Powder is definitely more rose forward and I'm impressed the peach isn't morphing and staying true. Very nice🌹 Old Library (Bergamot, Basil, Rose Tree, Cedar, Vanilla, Vetiver, Peruvian Balsam) *Inspired by "The Name of the Rose" by Umberto Eco Out of the two vials, this fragrance is my favourite as I get this wood laced spice/herbal blend that catches my full attention throughout the day and it's easy to imagine this being the fragrance of a medieval monastery library complete with aged manuscripts and dusty rose petals between the stacks. For longevity, these perfumes tap out at about 4 hours on my skin and 13+ hours in my curls. They aren't obtrusive to those around me which I greatly appreciate as my workplace has a strict fragrance policy. Loose Tea Midnight Fairy (composition of the "Midnight Fairy" includes a mixture of classic black and green teas, candied fruit, rose petals, cornflower, and natural aromatic oils.) I'm still a novice tea drinker, but I know what I like and I LOVE this tea blend. In the corked vial I clearly smell luscious peach and that note continues to enchant my senses as I steep this brew. I enjoy my tea cold and fizzy and Midnight Fairy makes a splendid bubbly tea as I call them when it is added to a carbonator with a drop of honey. It's refreshing, sweet and delicious and I would absolutely purchase a full bag or go for the lovely tea sampler this shop offers. Overall: I was extremely impressed with everything I was presented with and I have a strong feeling this won't be my only review about Dark Tales this year. Dark Tales *reviews composed in April 2020 Spring is slowly returning and these are the blends that have helped me battle the end of winter blues, Valentine-blahs that hit every year and have been gentle and intriguing distractions. From timeless florals that smell fresh from the rained-over garden, comforting intoxicating honeyed fruit and dark forest greenery plus everything unexpected, this was the perfect way to herald in spring, new beginnings and an attitude about different subjects (and notes). *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these fragrances. -The following perfumes lasted from 2 (Coimetrophilia) to 13 hours (The Bees' High Tea and Ailurophilia) on my skin and even longer in my hair and upper neck. Purchased Bottles: The Bee's Knees (A lively blend to brighten the mood and lift your spirits. Leaves of lemon balm and crushed coriander seeds accompany lavender scones with spring harvest honey and a scant drop of green cognac. Wear this scent to chase away the doldrums and banish the blues.)(-bottle purchased last year-) Simply put The Bee's Knees is one of the most realistic honey and old english lavender oils I have found in the indie realm. On me, this blend is sun-warmed dark golden honey drizzled over sugar-dusted lavender scones, I don't get any cognac or additional herbs and if they are there, they are blended in so seamlessly and expertly. It's magnificent and is a crowning jewel of my vast collection. Every time I wear it I imagine an English garden scene in late spring into summer and The Bee's Knees instantly brightens my mood as described. It was love at first sniff and what can I say, I fell hard. The Bees' Cotillion (So fancy! This ebullient blend evokes mirth and merriment to highlight your most endearing qualities. Succulent pears simmering in spring honey with the gentlest breeze of lily carried in a homespun infusion of honeysuckle flowers.)(-purchased this year after becoming entranced by the vial last year-) The Bees' Cotillion is an intoxicating blend of fruit, warm honey (I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey fragrances; I want to hoard them all like a shimmery amber dragon) and florals. It has found a special place on top my vanity, is one of my favourite pear perfumes to date and I know this sounds odd but this scent is lucky as good things seem to happen when I don it. It's professional and positively unique and says I have arrived in life while also staying approachable. Anthophilia ~The love of Flowers. (White tea rose, French lavender, cotton flower, Easter lily, pear blossom, the barest hint of ylang, and the vivid green of snipped stems. Wear this scent to attract beauty, pleasure, and luxury.) Fragrance currently listed on the site (-purchased vial and shortly after full bottle-) I can't help but hold my head high and breathe deep with this lovely blend as it evokes a treasured era of study for myself and taps into happy childhood memories of Easter celebrations and events. On opening, it's a bouquet of florals and sweet pear anchoring the medley keeping it from being considered heady and this beautiful balance and waltz of spring florals stay true throughout the night without veering into soap nor hairspray/chemical; Anthophilia is a nosegay of refinement and feminity. If you love or are searching for the nectar you get from a bouquet of roses and lilies with an unexpected sweet airiness of pear (and a drop of vanilla- ylang ylang), definitely give Anthophilia a wave of the wrist. It's simply magnificent! Brava, Nui Cobalt Designs! Purchased vials and press samples: Coimetrophilia ~The love of Cemeteries. Freshly turned soil, gentle rain, moss-covered tombstones, low-lying fog, old red oaks, and fading funeral lilies. Wear this somber scent to invoke the blessings of your ancestors and commune with the dearly departed.) (-purchased vial-) I had to purchase this vial as it called out to my fascination with places of sacred rest of the departed and I wasn't disappointed. On application, I get this ultra-realistic wet spring grass aroma that slowly shifts over to cold wet stone, a hint of decaying white lily and finally dries down to comforting moss and dirt. Coimetrophilia captures my memories of wandering in the local cemetery as a child in spring tentatively touching the stormed-over worn stones and deciphering names and dates covered by emerald moss. For longevity, Coimetrophilia fades within a few hours. It also stayed relatively close to my skin which I appreciated as I could bring a little unique though respectful macabre into the work setting and not disturb anyone and be left to my fond memories of exploration and the stories I have gathered about those gone but not forgotten. Stinger "Even bees, the little almsmen of spring bowers, know there is richest juice in poison-flowers." - John Keats (A refreshing potion to cleanse, heal, and protect. Blackberry brambles, honeyed black tea, and crushed coriander with ginger root, lemon myrtle, fresh basil, and fig. Wear to banish negativity and cast a radiant shield to repel all malefaction.) Nui Cobalt is one of the only shops that creates tea blends my finicky chemistry will play nice with and Stinger is a star example. It's intoxicating lush fruit, lemony aromatic herbs and dark seductive tea. For those that grew up in the country, welcome back to memories of berry picking deep in the jaggers; just watch out for those pesky yellow jackets or white-faced hornets! Mmmph. Negative everything, be gone! Ailurophilia ~The love of Cats. (Egyptian musk, tonka, and dulce de leche wrapped in luxuriant cashmere, soft suede, wisps of sandalwood and copal smoke. Wear this comforting concoction to honor your feline familiars and invoke their ancient power.) (-purchased vial-) With Ailurophilia I get a glow or aura of allure, pampered luxury and Old Hollywood Royalty at its finest. Perhaps I can finally detect and identify musk because this is sublime and it lasts 12+ hours on my skin, amplifying with every hour as the first sweet comforting dulce de leche notes fade. Like a feline, Ailurophilia has so many facets to its character; it's overall mysterious, fascinating and a bit naughty. If you are looking for a mental image, I immediately think of Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra winking as she makes her grand entrance to Rome. Home Sweet Hive Bees do have a smell, you know, and if they don't they should, for their feet are dusted with spices from a million flowers.” - Ray Bradbury (A comforting blend for calm contentment. Bulgarian lavender, oatstraw, honey-roasted chestnuts, maple sugar and a scant pinch of lemon zest. Wear for grounding, centering, and to carry sacred space wherever you go.) With the whole world going mad, this is one perfume I could bathe in as I get a tussy mussey of relaxing lavender and oatstraw that just invites warm comforting thoughts of home and sanctuary. The savoury roasted chestnuts come out more as this oil is aging and it melds sublimely with the sweet maple sugar. Home Sweet Hive is a delightful blending of spring and fall and I could see myself wearing this perfume in early spring and then again in fall and winter. Higher Mind (Smart is sexy. An assertive and herbaceous scent composed of green tea, sage, three sacred sandalwoods, rosemary, chilled citrus, and tonka. Wear this enchanted fragrance to hone perception, wit, and focus.)(-arrived with purchased order-) Rosemary! Finally, I am reunited with the unmistakable scent of fresh crushed rosemary and all things green and enchanting. I could happily huff this oil all day and I have noticed Higher Mind clears the cobwebs and helps me "put my thinking cap on" as my Baba always said. The drydown is unexpectedly alluring leaning slightly masculine. Another keeper and I believe I'm going to wear this perfume when I'm studying different subjects I missed so long ago. The Bees' High Tea (An uplifting blend to forge lasting connections and cultivate friendships. Delicate vanilla cakes with rose petal preserves, elderflower wine, and Earl Grey tea with a dainty drop of spring harvest honey.) (-purchased vial-) *Cue the violins and donning the white lace gloves* I finally have my little claws on The Bees' High Tea and it's everything everyone was saying it was. This is STUNNING! For those that fell hard for LOVE, you must try The Bees' High Tea because they are undeniably (surprise) sister scents. I recognize the vintage powdery rose and vanilla from LOVE right out of the gate and the addition of a drop of honey and earl grey elevates this blend from Oooo to Mmmphf! It's been a week since I received this vial and the vanilla cake is deepening with hint of butter on the long drydown (as well as the rose jam) and the tea is there staying true and not turning soapy. The elderberry wine (smells like rich less sweet grapes with a trace of tartness) is the note that amps on me the most and I'm learning all about a new note that obviously loves my chemistry. Overall a sweet elegant and yet almost playful perfume. Cobalt Druid: Sultry (A time-honored Hoodoo blend, famous for its power to attract passionate love as well as abundant wealth. Two dark, lascivious vanillas swirled with dragon's blood, heavy velvet musk and the secrets of an old rootworker's conjure cabinet.) Now this one is intriguing. I get heavy sweet dragon's blood, the impression of a black velvet dress slashed with red and a smearing of peanut butter? My chemistry has this tendency to morph patchouli to either rusted metal or peanut butter so I'm curious if there is unlisted patchouli in Sultry or my tired brain is playing tricks. Curiously, the peanut butter scent is fleeting as the dragon's blood amplifies on me and the vanilla with velvet takes over creating one seductive little number. Where is a black-masked mascarade ball when you need one? Busy Bee (A piquant potion for swift and efficient productivity. A blend of Oolong and Tibetan black tea with peach blossom honey, cardamom, and clove, sharpened with pink peppercorn and dry oakwood. Wear this scent for improved focus, diligence, and motivation.) The above should be hell on earth on my skin with the peach and tea (2 of my top death notes), but I'm enthralled that Busy Bee is an absolute treasure that smells delicious but dark and a little mysterious on me; perfect for the rainy weather and keeping my full attention. I finally have a true smelling peach tea perfume to show off and to recommend. Ceraunophilia ~The love of Thunder and Lightning (Slivered almond and ozone swirled with white clove, ambergris accord, ponderous grey musk, spiced tobacco, and black cotton. Wear this galvanic scent to call forth your inner strength and summon your fortitude.)(-purchased vial-) Boy, I'm learning such nifty names with this clever new Valentine collection and with Ceraunophilia I can't decide what keeps bringing me back for another closed-eyed huff, the salty ambergris, the almond or the dark swirling clove. This blend has left an impression on my scent memory and is a unique conceptual take on one of my favourite things in nature to watch and experience (the elements are there creating a perfect storm in my mind). It would be ideal for the bath and I can only hope it is turned into a potent bath spell someday.⚡☔ Bees on the Bayou "Every saint has a bee in his halo." - Elbert Hubbard (A dark, seductive blend for a sultry southern evening. Vines heavy with honeysuckle entwined with Easter lily, linden blossom, and neroli over a sweet foundation of pipe tobacco, pralines, and creamed honey. Wear to inspire lust and longing in the objects of your desire.) Nui Cobalt Designs has this amazing way with timeless florals and here the honeysuckle is sweet and rich while the neroli adds a fragrant tartness to the underlining notes. This is one lovely blend and I love how the honey pralines appear right as the florals fade. Speaking of the flowers I'm still learning unfamiliar notes, but I swear I detect the lemony-hearted magnolia making a cameo appearance at one point or other with Bees on the Bayou. I think I'll wear this oil more in the summer months and alternate this perfume with Feu Follet as those remind me so much of a family friend who was a southern belle. Queen Bee (An opulent blend to evoke confidence, poise, and effortless grace. Creamy white gardenia and fluffy whipped honey.) I was hoping for a summer version of Sixteen92's Ligeia, but instead have been united with sweet innocent nostalgia as this oil smells like a new baby doll in the warm sunlight on me and buttery gardenia. I didn't think I would find this familiar aroma until I finally got around to Rose Mallow or Violet Mallow from Solstice Scents but here it is taking me back and bringing a new white floral fragrance to reach for this summer. The heady floral powderiness of Queen Bee lasts quite a while as well, fading away completely at 10 hours. Another keeper! Wasp (An austere balsamic blend for when you need to clean up and get organized. Fresh linen, crisp chardonnay, and a rain-quenched herb garden edged with impeccable boxwood topiaries.) Just as described as the fresh linen scent rises up first to hit my nose, but this isn't the cheap headache-inducing kind, oh no, this is expensive fancy laundry detergent presented. The chardonnay is the next scent to slowly glide in and with that Wasp turns into a scene of laundry flapping in the warm spring sunshine while classical music plays from an open window. The final aroma that is noticed is something resembling calming rosemary. I like this oil and I guess this means I'm growing as a perfume collector as I can appreciate Wasp even with the expensive soap element front and centre. Black Honey “To be successful, one has to be one of three bees - the queen bee, the hardest working bee, or the bee that does not fit in.” - Suzy Kassem (An offbeat Gothic blend for true renegades and revolutionaries. Autumn harvest honey, nutmeg, clove, roasted cocoa, molasses, birch bark, star anise, and oud. Wear when you're ready to shake things up and ditch the comfort zone.) Not at all what I was expecting as I get spiced tootsie roll pops candy in the vial and on my skin I get root beer barrel candies (I guess I amp birch). The long drydown a glimmer of honey and vanilla comes forward, and then the root beer returns. Well, that is all different and I'm sure this would be someone's perfect cup of tea...actually I do know someone who would love this for pure nostalgia reasons. As for me- Oh well, can't love everything. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note (or series of notes) may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Selenophilia ~The Love of the Moon (Night-blooming jasmine, dewy gardenia, Mysore sandalwood, white amber, pearlescent musk, silver sage and a touch of frozen clove. Wear this luminous blend to invoke the magic of the Moon and draw down her healing energy.) (-purchased vial-) More and more I'm finding new facets of Selenophilia to be awed by as this oil has in store something new every hour it seems. It morphs and changes like the moon itself throughout the month and year starting out bright, buttery and luminous bringing to mind a full moon and then it darkens with the clove and almost something smokey which turns over completely to soft and classic (for me the drydown is my favourite). This is a lovely heady white floral perfume to reach for when you need something with a little oomph and glamour. Bee In Your Bonnet "Books are the bees which carry the quickening pollen from one to another mind." - James Russell Lowell (A piquant blend to enliven the mind and stir the senses. Raw rhubarb and cardamom with toasted oats, Madagascar vanilla, ginger ale, and caramelized honey. Wear for support in any intellectual effort to stay sharp and alleviate brain fog.) Here is another fragrant medley to wake the senses and clear the cobwebs. For those seeking the tart juiciness of rhubarb, here's Bee In Your Bonnet! On me, I get the rhubarb and slight bubbliness of the ginger ale after about 20 minutes on the long drydown the vanilla and toasted oats with honey slowly become more apparent. This one is a like not love, but a keeper overall. Dendrophilia ~The love of Trees. (Moss-covered deadfall, birchwood and pine, lingering resins and sunlight through the leaves, a trace of woodsmoke, the memory of vetiver and cedar. Wear this evocative blend to commune with the spirits of nature and reconnect with your primal wisdom.)(-arrived with purchased order-) My dream Moss Maiden perfume is that you? Oh, I feel like some fantastic warrior queen of the ancient forests painted in blue woad or a nimble-footed dryad of myth with Dendrophilia and I'm going to say it, one of the best realistic spring forest fragrances I have encountered in the indie realm. On me, the hyper-realistic moss and deadfall amplify (along with a hint of woodsmoke and dried pine needles) and sweep me away to dream locales and treasured stories. This is joining Sixteen92's masterpiece, Lycanthrope for instant relaxation and meditative/sleep oils. The Birds and the Bees (A very sexy fragrance of dark amber resin, Moroccan musk, ruby red and bright white grapefruits, a spike of black clove and a swirl of summer honey. Wear this sensual perfume to inspire passion and kindle romance.)(-purchased vial-) I'm finding my skin chemistry battles grapefruit and then drains any beauty from it turning it into chalky bubblegum (this is the 4th blend this has happened with from different shops). Ah, but in my hair is a whole different story as I get the mystique and seductive quality from The Birds and the Bees. Just perhaps I'm finally learning to identify musks because I can detect something "different" swirling in the winds. Something resembling fine plush fabric is also present or that could be my imagination. Into unscented whipped soap, The Birds and the Bees goes to turn some heads this upcoming spring and summer. For longevity, this one is fleeting, but nice while it lasts. Danu (Where the sea meets the sky, where the stormwaters return along the sun's rays, the loving kindness of the Universal Mother in her Celtic aspect. A luminous moon-white floral meets an iridescent aquatic. Three tender lotuses, Tahitian monoi, slender bamboo stalks, tuberose, and a soothing cup of tea.) Poetry in the description and poetry in the vial as I get salty tuberose that brings to mind a lone blossom bobbing in the incoming waves. On my skin, more of the clean aspect of the notes amplifies and Danu smells like fresh salty expensive soap. It's certainly elegant and lovely, however, I need to remember this one can reach across a room if I put too much oil on. One tiny dab behind each ear is enough to take me away to unchartered locales and lyrical artistry. Swarm "Aerodynamically the bumble bee shouldn’t be able to fly, but the bumble bee doesn’t know it, so it goes on flying anyway." - Mary Kay Ash (This delightful blend inspires hope, attracts allies, and nourishes friendship. A honey-drizzled blueberry tart bejewelled with candied apricot in a toasted almond crust. Wear for connection, collaboration, and encouragement.) Mmm, this is really perfume? I could honestly drink this and I can't stop making embarrassing noises once Swarm is placed on my skin. Okay time to focus, I get Nui Cobalt's sublime realistic smelling blueberry accord and the textbook perfect toasted almond crust I recognize from Poppycock and yes even candied apricot. The honey is very delicate and slowly warms up along with the almond crust as the spectacular blueberry fades. With the craziness at work, I'm going to be donning this gem and secretly huffing my wrists and braid when no one is looking but then again, let them look and take a sniff of Swarm and behold something from a gourmand's dream. She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee "Last night as I was sleeping, I dreamt -- O, marvelous error -- That there was a beehive here inside my heart And the golden bees were making white combs And sweet honey from all my failures." - Antonio Machado (An ode to the living spirit of compassion. Cocoa butter and shea, cotton flower, silk tree, apple blossom, wildflower honey, bee balm, and heliotrope. Wear this scent to conjure an atmosphere of loving kindness and receptivity.) With this collection, I can't get over the adorable clever names and She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee is such a gentle delightful scent creation that smells like cocoa butter, lemony bee balm (must also applaud the use of this heavenly underappreciated note) apple and the barest hint of honey. It almost reminds me of Pixie with the realistic apple blossom, however, She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee goes in a more slightly airy and fresh scented direction versus graham cracker and spring grass. I don't know about this scent potion creating loving kindness, but I do know this one calms me down in chaotic stress-filled spaces (like the packed supermarket) and I have been reaching for the vial especially this whole week for different reasons. Now the opening and initial hour after application are nice and pleasant, but I can't recommend the drydown on this one enough- it's a hint of remaining apple and lemon under creamy white chocolate and a kiss of honey. So pretty and hits the cravings, comfort factor and nostalgia elements perfectly. Nui Cobalt Designs |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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