Say the words "peanut butter, spice, marshmallow, lilac, pomegranate and frankincense" all in the same breath and I'll show you my pocketbook, haha. Astrid Perfumes (formerly Blooddrop) has been on my radar for years and I took a little gamble with reaching for 2 vials from different collections from a trusted decanter (Ajevie). At the end of the night, I had one beautifully wicked find and one that will be surrendered to a whipped soap treatment, but I'm jumping ahead of myself. These were my thoughts after a LONG winter's nap for both of these vials. Peanut Butter Pony (Peanut butter cookie accord, marshmallow, and cinnamon sugar buttercream) So many promises and hopes were laid on this one mini dram purchase and once applied and settled, I get a delightful cinnamon buttercream aroma with the crumbs of a leftover Peanut Butter cookie, it leaves me wanting more and thinking of the cookies of Christmases Past. It's gentle (too much so) and delicious but nothing to write home about to be honest. When it comes to the anticipated marshmallow, it is evident and I can add my (off key) voice to the choir about Astrid Perfume's infamous Marshmallow accord, it's impressive and realistic but again I'm hungry for more of it. The search continues for my dream peanut butter cookie fragrance that lasts and Peanut Butter Pony will be trotting off to a whipped soap/deep conditioning treatment one of these nights so my curls can carry a waft of wintertime delights. The Longest Night (Shimmering plum, lilac blossom accord, velvety black amber, sanguine pomegranate, and frankincense.) Mmmhm, this is the Queen of the Underworld on a date night with her King (or thrall)! He's under her power and oh how beautifully wicked she looks and can be in a spangled mantle of dark purple and black, her eyes glow, snap and flash in the flames pulling in her desired. The world above them sleeps in a torrent of ice and dreams of spring but in the cold darkness they reign and toss petals into the river and watch as the deep endless waters drown and consume. This is a gorgeous marriage of forbidden and lore-laced fruits, shimmering resins and the ghost of lilac blossoms. It somehow crackles and yet deepens with every previous note creating a dark romance and vision I never want to escape. Needless to say a full bottle of The Longest Night will be joining a certain red roped-off corner of my collection someday. Astrid Perfume We all have those guilty pleasure films that may not have been seen as cinematic gold in others' eyes but for you, you can't get enough of those certain types of mind-rotting-entertainment. It's candy for the brain and Jawbreaker (1999), is one of my ultimate guilty pleasure movies that matches perfectly to those criteria. Let me take you back and remind you a bit of time trip...(come on, indulge an old lady, this is all I have) We are at the final days of a millennium about to celebrate a full century of innovation, growth and advancements in technology (we aren't quite panicking just yet about changing over the 000's in our computer systems or Y2K Computer Bug- that comes in a few months and I slept right through New Years), medicine and industry (Oh Napster released that year!) etc and hey roller rinks and Butterfinger BBs still exist. There are strobbing silver lights, boy bands in baggy clothing, thumping night club scenes, bleached tips, and metallic clothing (plus lots of white pants) in about every music video and there's Madonna dancing with Austin Powers. It was a fun time for sure especially for those of us just learning our tastes with our cd players and which vhs tapes to grab at Blockbuster. It was a wide range of genres of movies that year but for me, Jawbreaker somehow captured that magical time what with the flashy pin-up 1950's styled clothing in daring neons mixed so perfectly with the 1990's grudge goth aesthetic (did anyone else race out to try to find a purple neckerchief and a nail polish named 'decay' or 'demented'?) and the quirky bubblegum murder meangirl plot serving as the body (ha!) of the film, it was hard not to love it, quote it and still think about. Enter Sixteen92 in the summer of 2020 announcing the grand reveal of the Summer 6th Anniversary collection. One look and I knew what I was bringing home. One Note At A Time: BEAUTIFUL. POPULAR. LOVED. FEARED. (Moonflower, tiare, bitter almond, blond woods, heat lightning, asphalt) In the film there are scenes of transformation and lovely manipulation at play and this perfume begins with the turn of the sun on wet bedraggled green sprouts that with attention would dominate a garden of followers er flowers. Very clever. The bitter almond and intoxicating white florals just lie under the all illuminating sun then all reveals the dangerous poisonous side that is still highly addictive and impossible to not be drawn to. I thankfully don't get any asphalt but there is a nifty morphing impression of metal in this perfume that hits out of the blue, just like a betrayal from someone you so wanted to believe and idolize. HAVE YOU MET VYLETTE? (Shy violet, pale leather, soft patchouli, fiddlehead fern, white rose, a crack of black pepper) On opening a familiar realistic greenhouse fern note from Serres d'Auteuil greets the nose along with a sweetness of a fresh white rose then ever slowly this perfume spins in some seductive leather, violet and punch of black pepper that adds underlying warmth and viola instant mysterious popularity on my vanity table. Have You Met Vylette? was made for us wallflowers that have a secret side that we just a nudge to reveal. Remember my fellow wallflowers, we hold the power and on a clear day, baby you can see tomorrow. PEACHY F-CKING KEEN (Peach preserves, white nectarine, black raspberry, syrupy benzoin, vanilla musk, rum) So who wants to sashay about smelling like a Fuzzy Navel drink? Those devilishly deceptive (though delicious) soft cocktails get me in trouble at weddings so unless I'm home and 'Pour Some Sugar On Me' or 'Hurricane' is thumping in the background, I can't wear this out as I amp this little number to the heavens and back and my coworkers would think I'm a lush, haha. I do love the spiked peach and additional dark fruit in this and appreciate it doesn't turn to raunchy cat urine on me, the listed vanilla musk will unexpectedly reappear in another purchased blend that I will get to rambling about in awhile. Overall, this is a Friday night or Saturday type of scent when you are up to no good and feel like strutting down a hallway like you own the burning world even in your pajamas. THE PRINCESS DI OF REAGAN HIGH (Coconut milk, star jasmine, pink birthday cake, warm honey, white amber) The Princess Di of Reagan High was the reigning queen of my summer fragrances in 2020 but she also can make a delightful cameo appearance now and again in the cold cruel months as the sweet, bright and delectable notes help banish the winter blahs and distract me from the looming 5-foot snowdrifts out my window. When it comes this perfume the coconut milk has thankfully mellowed and softened even more after all these months and the strawberry almond vanilla cake with drizzled golden honey and a warm white amber base shines through and tempts me to whip up a thick strawberry cake from scratch for the neighbors just because. The crunchy sugary topping is amping with lovely intensity this morning and stokes some hidden impulse to spread joy around, be liked by the community and put frills and ruffles on (again) just because and stick my head out the frozen over window risking serious wind rash and whistle to the birds so they could help me bake (they would probably tweet back some type of obscenity about it not being spring yet and stop bothering them). Yes, my fellow gloomy little hearts, this perfume makes you want to feel and be kind and want to turn into a crazed Snow White others would probably want to kill (use with caution). PROM QUEEN (White chrysanthemum, sticky honeysuckle, cherry limeade, red lollipop, smudged mascara, innocent cashmere, blood accord) I mentioned smelling and feeling like a crazed Snow White how about a demented Prom Queen with a big secret? Now at first this vial when it initially arrives is sickeningly sweet and tart with the cherry limeade and candy swirling underneath and an absence of any listed florals, but give Prom Queen several months of gentle aging and she will reveal her freaky even dare I say kinky side. For me, this one still opens with playful sticky sweet tartness of a melting popsicle then something sinister just hiding under the faux exterior of candy reveals in about an hour realistic floral petals, wet makeup and a tang of copper blood! This is the first time I have smelled realistic blood in a Sixteen92 scent creation and I love it and wish it to be found more in this indie's catalogue. There is also something to akin to draping material as well I can detect and I totally get the scent story of Prom Queen now. I KILLED THE TEEN DREAM (Vanilla bean ice cream, pink spun sugar and marshmallow, white cake crumbs, candied citron, a cracked jawbreaker, duct tape and gunpowder) And the award goes to for the most unique candy themed perfume I have ever smelled...Wowza! I Killed The Teen Dream (deal with it) is a wild ride. It's playful and inviting yet (cleverly) deceptively unnerving and twisted underneath perfectly matching the opening sequence and scenes of Jawbreaker. On me, the almost powdery creamy layer of candy shells and delicate citron amplifies first and the unmistakable aroma of sticky chemical glue from duct tape shortly follows. I don't get any gunpowder or ice cream which is a little disappointing, however, I do get Sixteen92's infamous mouthwatering marshmallow accord and it replaces the citron and lasts well into the next morning along with the return of a candy shell that reminds me of nostalgic easter baskets. I knew this perfume was going to be off the wall but I didn't expect anything like this and this is why Indies exist- to create one of kind scent potions that not only tell a commanding story but hit all the senses. No one else could have brought this type of perfume to life. Brava, Sixteen92! They F**ing Forgot My Birthday (Wedding cake, orange blossom honey, burned sugar, soft vanilla musk, unlit birthday candles, would you stop feeling sorry for yourself?) Here it is THE scent that launched a thousand reviews and set the indie world ablaze last year and it smells like I'm being smothered by 90's powdery sweet My Little Pony toys. Great. Sadly, this was the biggest disappointment purchase of 2020 for me and I'm still cursing out my skin chemistry every time I take this coveted bottle out to test hoping this will be the day the stunning wedding cake with buttercream icing and orange blossoms will stand firm against the onslaught of a cascade of warm powdery plastic (that I'm guessing is from the "unlit birthday candles" mingling with the vanilla musk), but alas, every time it's the same outcome of me just enveloped within moments and being laid low for a full day (and half if I don't scrub fast enough) with a pinching headache. This bottle has taught me so many things and the number one lesson is, I need to be more picky in 2021. One Note At A Time: Sixteen92 (a selection from the Spring 2020 and Fall 2019 collections)6/25/2020
Leave it to Sixteen92 to present a gorgeous reeling of atmospheric fragrances that makes me want to dress up in all my historical finery and pretend I'm in another era in entirely as I recite iconic lines in front my vanity table. The following are ramblings about a handful of scent potions from the Fall 2019 and Spring 2020 collections inspired by horror film/books and The Golden Age of Hollywood. These various vials and ampule have been patiently waiting for months and now they are ready for their close-ups! One Note At A Time: Redrum (inspired by Stephen King's The Shining (1977)) (Description and Notes- The muffled din of a ghostly masquerade party - faint clink of champagne flutes, a ticking ebony clock, expensive furs, hazy hallways, and specters moving through shadow) On opening there is a distinct mixture of something cloying and chemical-like almost akin to polished dark shellacked wood with mothballs (maybe even tire spray?) and yet fuzzy childhood memories of exploring forgotten closets are slowly resurfacing as I sit back. I can hear the sound of the closet door rustling and resisting to completely reveal its contained secrets against the grain of a thick arsenic-green carpet as Redrum takes me back, there's disturbed dust on plastic bags in the dim light and I can definitely detect the expensive furs and sweetness of alcohol from the champagne. It's eerie and unsettling as promised and yet a little like a personal homecoming for me as I can smell a familiar beautiful vintage perfume materializing just under the strong wood and chemical aromas. I never learned the names of the bottles that adorned my Baba's vanity table but I can clearly remember the label designs and the one I'm wanting to compare Redrum to had a gold label with a red border and was in a frosted glass tall slender bottle. If only that wood and cloying chemical combination would release me and let me enjoy a revisit to the fragrant ghosts of my childhood but alas it refuses to settle and I can get an unpleasant pinching headache with Redrum. I'm still keeping this vial for future costume ideas and a bit of personal nostalgia. Darkness Was Enough (inspired by Stephen King's 'Salem's Lot (1975)) (Notes- Ancient woods, beeswax candles, spiced honey, charred amber, saffron crocus) 'Salem's Lot, the book and the movie respectively are iconic horror treats and how I wish to smell like a seductive vampire hiding deep in an abandoned house with Darkness Was Enough, but alas I smell I'm enjoying spiced tomato soup next to a guttering candle. Reading the notes this tomato soup fragrance doesn't make sense and I have been racking my brain trying to figure what this blend reminds of in my museum-sized perfume collection and it finally hit me the other morning- Pyromancy. Darkness Was Enough smells like Pyromancy only more acidic if that makes sense and has a melting candle note versus a hot metal with pepper under the tomato soup aroma. Since I already have Pyromancy in a larger size (somedays I just want to smell like a piping bowl of creepy soup!), I don't honestly know the future for Darkness Was Enough. I may put it some whipped soap or pass it along to a coworker who is still exploring Sixteen92's amazing scent artistry. Bette (inspired by Ruth Elizabeth "Bette" Davis/Bette Davis, April 5, 1908 – October 6, 1989; some of her films include: What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?, All About Eve, The Little Foxes and All This And Heaven Too) (Notes-Angel food cake, floral honey, marshmallow, pistachio, French vanilla, loose black tea) The long wait was worth it when it comes to The Golden Age collection and, in particular, this fantastic marshmallow fragrance. Bette makes her entrance with promised realistic angel food cake (heavy on the sweet almond) and crumbled pistachio on top then divine french vanilla rolls in and completely elevates this perfume from delicious to très chic! The floral honey is a drizzling over the almond cake for those concerned and on me I swear I detect a drop of creamy sandalwood blended in with the Sixteen92's famous marshmallow. Bette lasts throughout a 13 hour shift and she's just marvellous! Jean (inspired by Harlean Harlow Carpenter/Jean Harlow, March 3, 1911 – June 7, 1937; some her films include: Bombshell, China Seas, Hell's Angels and Saratoga) (Notes- White gardenia, Mexican tuberose, sparkling aldehydes, ginger ale, passion fruit, coconut water, silken musks) If you are looking for a dreamy floral-fruit fragrance that harkens back to the glitz and sparkle of Old Hollywood, look no further than Jean. This is class, allure and a bit of playful sass. Right away I get the aldehydes I recognize from Habanera and Ligeia and they meld beautifully with the buttery gardenia and soft coconut. Sixteen92's gardenia is the reason I'm an avid hunter of that note now and I'm going to say it, no one else's compares- it never smells like soap or shampoo or stale hairspray, it's just a silken floral that adds elegance to any blend it touches. The tuberose adds a slight "dirtiness" to this perfume which is just aces and researching it looks like Jean may be also a homage to Jungle Gardenia which was favoured by the elite of Old Hollywood. The passion fruit becomes more apparent on me after a few hours along with a vintage quality that stays until the final notes fade. I received multiple compliments on this perfume and I adore Jean and must have a full bottle next year (I missed the spring collection waiting for my samples to arrive then rest). Thank you to all who recommended this beauty! Marlene (inspired by Marie Magdalene "Marlene" Dietrich/Marlene Dietrich, 27 December 1901 – 6 May 1992; some of her films include: The Scarlet Empress, Witness for the Prosecution, Around the World in 80 Days and Knight Without Armour) (Notes- Alba rose, copal, bearded iris, scarlet lips, flushed cheeks, davana, plum syrup, gin fizz, smoke) I think we can all agree, scent is a suggestive and a personal experience so I hope you will forgive me for getting a bit weepy with Marlene because after a long decade I have been reunited with the exact vintage fragrance of red lipstick my Baba used to don. She wore violets like a timeless queen and I can pick out a creamy powdery floral under the lipstick on me that smells indeed of violets and there is no cough syrup to report (which can occur when violets meet my finicky skin chemistry); what wonderful magic is this?! I don't get any rose or plum for those curious and there is perhaps a wisp of separate smoke in the background, but then again I always thought real vintage lipstick had a smokiness to it. I also can just make out the smallest drop of sweet gin hiding in the long dry down. When I sit down and go through previous offerings with similar notes, Bruise Violet and Mina Harker could be called louder sister scents of Marlene and even Mein Herr Marquis could be a sister blend. I was curious if Marlene would smell like Winifred with the plum and davana, but there is no scent comparison after all these weeks. I love how soft and pretty this perfume is on me. My only lament is I wish Marlene stayed on my skin longer as it fades within two hours on me. I may need to look into a EdP option next year, this is so lovely but fleeting. Louise (inspired by Mary Louise Brooks/Louise Brooks, November 14, 1906 – August 8, 1985; some of her films include: Pandora's Box, Love 'Em and Leave 'Em, The American Venus and God's Gift to Women) (Notes- Sultry amber, red ink, black kohl, night blooms, Tonkin musk (synthetic), wormwood, soft suede, glistening strands of pearls) So Louise is fascinating as it opens similar to Bridget Bishop with the "night blooms" being cold and a bit resinous then this slinky smokey ink and soft suede medley peeks out and turns aquatic and silky. The wormwood smells like cool absinthe droplets and I've stuck my nose into enough antique jewellery cupboards to recognize the scent of old silk strands and saltiness of worn pearls that is evident in Louise on the long dry down. Louise is impressive and I'm over the moon the suede hasn't turned into a leathery chemical-bomb on me (I seem to amplify the wormwood (almost like anise/licorice), a dirty iris and silky/aquatic seductive element of this perfume). I think I finally found a suede blend from Sixteen92 I can wear on my skin versus only in my hair in small measured applications *claps*. This is another bottle I must have when the times comes, in the meantime I can't stop dabbing on this little number and dancing like no one is watching and vamping in the mirror in black lacy garters. What can I say, this Mrs. Grundy is ready to transform into a Sheba! Sixteen92 One Note at a Time: A trove of Nui Cobalt Designs blends and my first purchase from Ajevie1/26/2020
Nui Cobalt Designs and Ajevie Reviews composed in October and November 2019 It's finally that most wonderful time of the year when I step out in style in everything pumpkin, moon named or vampire and werewolf inspired and here I present to you a few thoughts on a fine selection of elegant and delectable long-lasting blends I have been wearing to welcome in my favourite season right. *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. One Note at a Time: Silver Bullet (A swift banishment blend to dispel anger, frustration, and any feral lunacy that muddles the mind. Wolf musk accord with wild white currant, chilled clary sage, dried lavender, lime leaves, and a subtle hint of almond bark infused with homegrown hyssop, lemon verbena, and white peppercorn. Wear this soothing potion in stressful situations or when you feel the stirrings of the savage beast within.) I may not be able to detect any wolf musk in Silver Bullet, but I sure can smell and deeply inhale the garden-fresh energized lemon verbena which is front and center on the opening and melds so perfectly with the supporting listed notes creating the unmistakable scent of "metal under cold moonlight or gentle shimmery water at night" when I allow my imagination to take wing. A very aptly named creation and this is a fragrance for a moon child or water sign. I adore this chilled herbal citrus blend and would love a full bottle eventually. For longevity, Silver Bullet lasts around 9 to 10 hours and the scent stays close becoming one of those perfect sleep scent potions or one to grab for some meditative night wandering. Blood Curse (A protection blend that is not to be trifled with. Sicilian figs, oak-aged Bordeaux, Tunisian incense, blackcurrant preserves, Louisiana pralines, tart dried cherry, a spritz of red grapefruit and smooth sanguine musk. Wear to send any jinx or malefaction back to where it came from. It's been known to bring swift and severe punishment to those of ill intent.) With a name like Blood Curse and the above description, this was one vial I couldn't wait to add to my collection and wow it doesn't disappoint. On application, this is sweet and oaky cherry wine that then morphs slowly to a tart grapefruit deepened by beautiful smoky incense which lasts hours and surprisingly it is all extremely wearable in the professional setting. Here is another blend that stays close and I feel I have this "aura" around me or have a glowing blood-red jewel at my throat. Blood Curse is a must try if you love realistic fruit blends that carry a bit of unique mystique to them. Au Bal Masqué (The sheer, spectral scent of elegant ghosts waltzing through the haunted halls of an abandoned palace. Nepalese virgin cashmere, cotton flower, vanilla spun sugar, labdanum, and the wafting memory of white funeral lilies. Wear this scent to attract benevolent spirits and to honor the beloved dead.) I must admit when this vial arrived, "ghost laundry" which was pretty and eerie (but a tad out of my comfort zone) immediately came to mind however a week later Au Bal Masqué morphed into a cotton candy/candy floss/spun sugar perfume I can pull off and wear! It's lovely with a realistic lily in the background with a sheer sweetened non-foody wistful vanilla on top that I recognize from Starlight & Spider Silk and the unique cotton flower from Little Brown Rabbit. It's almost cold and ethereal smelling with a hint of powderiness that adds to the scent story of a haunted masked ball scene. The only lilies I'm familiar with are Easter Lilies so I asked a garden obsessed coworker what she thought and she told me I smelled like Stargazer Lilies with a realistic slight fruitiness to this blend I didn't notice until she pointed it out. Nearly 12 hours later this morphs to warm spun sugar (and a touch of hidden greenery) which is somehow not childish nor cloying smelling and I get a dainty music box playing a haunting melody when I let my mind wander or something to be found in the ghostly court of Marie Antoinette. Entombed (An Autumnal sleeping spell to rival our acclaimed Tryptophan. Cemetary stones enshrouded in mist, wild English lavender, rain, and freshly turned earth. Wear this scent before going to bed for restorative rest and pleasant dreams.) I've commented before about how much I love this shop's lavender and Entombed is another oil to recommend for those searching for the "perfect lavender" perfume. The herb is smooth and inviting and as you bring your nose closer the stone and mist appears taking you away to an abandoned scenic countryside you don't want to leave and it gets even better when a hidden petrichor note manifests slowly like a building thunderstorm over the scene. When it comes to the choice between Tryptophan and Entombed, it's a tie for me. I enjoy both for different reasons. In both, I get an unlisted caramel scent while with Entombed the mysterious woody mint-like note that amps on me in Tryptophan is replaced with a wet earth mixture. Honestly, it doesn't matter which I choose because both give the most important gift which is a fully restorative sleep with pleasant dreams. Exhumed (An earthy manifestation blend for bringing your wishes into material reality. Fig trees, moss-covered mahogany, black patchouli infused with High John the Conqueror root, smoked vetiver, lichen and stone. Wear to attract abundance or anoint green candles in rituals for wealth.) This is wild, dirty and masculine with a genteel side and blame what I'm currently reading, but I can't help thinking Exhumed as a lordly fragrance or the scent of a master of his manor. For note identification, I don't get any fig on application, but I do get warm sensual mahogany with patchouli that shifts to a smoky moss and the drydown is a combination of stone, wood and smoke. As Exhumed is aging, there may also be a drop of sandalwood that peeks through after an hour. Although I mentioned this oil being "dirty", it is strangely "clean" smelling at the same time without resembling soap. It's all-around refined with a feral side and I want to hand this out on the corner to all single men. Exsanguinated (A vampiric fragrance for seduction and allure. Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smouldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses. Wear when in pursuit of prey or add to love-drawing baths to amplify their power.) Exsanguinated is exactly as promised on the tin, it's smoky, boozy, dark and dangerously seductive and I feel like I'm channelling Theda Bara in all her prowling magnetic glory when I don it. This is the fragrance of a pale claw-like hand reaching out in the dark to caress a lover (or new victim) and the drydown resembles a flickering black and white screen, I can't fully explain it, but Exsanguinated is one nifty perfume that I can't recommend enough to those who seek some darkness and confidence. Longevity is about 12 hours for me and others have commented I smell like smouldering roses, mahogany and dragon's blood. Exorcised (A bracing purification blend to cleanse yourself and your space. Snow-covered spruce, rock moss, chilled Earl Grey and pale frankincense. Anoint your pulse points to banish negativity or add a few drops to an oil diffuser to cleanse and protect your home.) With every vial from this amazing shop, I learn something new about myself and my skin chemistry and with Exorcised I have learned I amp moss and sweet resins while spruce fades within seconds and sadly the Earl Grey turns to an overly clean combination that resembles my experience with Giulia. Out of all the vials this round, Exorcised faded the quickest, but I must say it is a lovely oil to add to the diffuser. I'm curious what others' impressions are of this blend. On the right skin chemistry, I bet this would be incredible. Oh well, can't win them all (and my pocketbook sighs in relief). Drunk Pumpkin (A boozy scent to honor the spirits and celebrate the change of seasons. An oversized pumpkin punchbowl filled with hot apple cider, Caribbean dark rum, Tennessee whiskey, cinnamon sticks, ginger root and a twist of lemon. Wear when navigating life's big changes, and to summon help from beyond the Veil.) And now it is time for this self-confessed Pumpkin Whore to go wild. Oooh, Drunk Pumpkin take me away! That realistic spiked apple cider note is the star of this perfume and the creamy pumpkin with a hint of maple puts this oil on the top tier for favourite fragrances this year. I must admit, apple is a hard sell for me and I'm a bit picky, but Drunk Pumpkin has seriously impressed me and now I'm regretting not grabbing Cauldron Cider or not having anywhere fun to wear this I could crash and start dancing on the tables (it is the season of mischief and a bit of debauchery after all). Baby Pumpkin (A scent to inspire sweetness and affection. Homemade maple pumpkin bread with Autumn harvest honey, spiced with nutmeg and clove, drizzled with salted caramel, and dotted with Turkish apricot. Wear when you're in the mood for gentle hugs, earnest compliments, and warm appreciation.) Baby Pumpkin morphs and shifts differently on my skin versus hair and at the end of the night, I get warm golden honey, caramel, nutmeg, a hidden sandalwood note and maple on my skin and sweet candied apricot, maple and pumpkin in my hair that all accompany me home. I like this and have worn this oil quite a bit to work, but I'm not sure if I need a bottle this year (on the long dry down it reminds me of MoonaLisa's Cauldron Cakes which I ordered a bottle of at the last release). Mmm, Baby Pumpkin is so good though. I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey accords. Why does everything from this collection have to smell so amazing?! Wicked Pumpkin (A sexy potion that's sure to make you the belle of any masquerade ball. Sandalwood musk and dark patchouli with maple sugar, peach skin, cardamom, and freshly baked pumpkin pie. Wear to awaken your inner temptress and ensnare the object of your desire.) In my hair Wicked Pumpkin lives up to its name and I smell like one tasty and alluring dish with spiced fruits, sandalwood, pumpkin, patchouli and inviting maple sugar, but alas my skin chemistry has found a new note to torment me with and it is peach of all things which morphs to full-on cat urine on my skin. I had suspected peach was a death note for myself quite a while and Wicked Pumpkin just confirmed it and I'm now searching for a scent locket. In the meantime into unscented whipped soap Wicked Pumpkin goes so I can lavish my locks and turn some heads when the wind blows and howls this season. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Pumpkin Cupcake (A comforting scent to ease your mind and soothe your nerves. Whipped white pumpkin between layers of angel food cake, marshmallow frosting, and a light dusting of allspice. Wear in times of stress to keep a level head and a positive attitude.) I haven't had the pleasure to smell angel food cake since my Baba passed away and I can tell you Pumpkin Cupcake is an old fashioned fluffy angel food cake with added buttery allspice pumpkin frosting and maybe even a drop of coconut and sandalwood? Interestingly enough I don't get any marshmallow on my skin and I wouldn't call Pumpkin Cupcake a true gourmand, it's more of a quasi-blend that still satisfies those with a sweet tooth or anyone who has been desiring a bit of nostalgia. Flaming Pumpkin (A powerful prosperity blend to quickly draw abundant wealth and success. Two types of patchouli, fresh ginger root, woodsmoke, burnt brown sugar, and Jarrahdale pumpkin pureed with nutmeg and a spritz of blood orange. Anoint green or gold candles to add oomph to your money spells, or wear when you're ready to ask for that raise.) Flaming Pumpkin is probably the closest I'll get to smelling like a pile of beautiful burning maple leaves and mashed pumpkin with nutmeg in the forest (I get unlisted warm sandalwood in this blend and the drydown is earthy and relaxing). This one is also super comforting and great for sleep or puttering around the house. In regards to longevity, Flaming Pumpkin clocks in at 12 hours on my skin and 20 hours in my curls. I don't get any aggressive ginger or immediate scent of blood orange. Another keeper and unique pumpkin blend for my collection. Ginger Cat (A playful blend to banish malaise, lift your spirits, and ignite vitality. Crystallized ginger and raisins baked into warm pumpkin bread with caramel drizzle, candied orange peel, homemade apricot jam and the subtlest sprinkle of cardamom. Wear this cozy perfume when you need to shake off the doldrums and brighten your mood.) Ginger Cat brings to mind a secret soft orange cookie recipe I make every year that was my great-grandmother's and I can't stop huffing my wrists when it is applied. On me, the sweetened orange peel with apricot amps and I don't get any thick spiced bread or pumpkin. This is an energizing and invigorating mashup of notes and this indeed brightens my mood and feels cosy all at the same time. For longevity, Ginger Cat disappears relatively quickly on me, but I can still get very faint traces of it at 5 to 6 hours in the crooks of my arms. I can see why this is a seasonal favourite. Black Cat (A traditional folk magic blend for fast luck and abundant blessing. Darkly sweet pipe tobacco, blackcurrant, and chai spices amid the swirling smoke of sacred nag champa and myrrh. Wear this dusky potion to invoke protection and great fortune.) Black Cat is slightly smoky fruit laced with incense and I keep picking up something reminding me of brewed spiced berry tea. It's lovely and indeed mysterious and magnetic like a black cat. This would be amazing in a candle or shampoo. I wish it lasted longer on my skin. Gate of Autumn (The air turns electric as daylight hours wane toward the tipping-point of the year. This evocative blend is a paean to the Autumnal Equinox, a time of transformation. It evokes the bountiful blessings of the season, attracting prosperity, fulfilment, and great fortune. Woodland notes of wild fig, ancient oak, scarlet maple leaves and viscous dark resin.) Oh, Gate of Autumn has that incredibly realistic maple leaves accord that I fell for hard in Flaming Pumpkin and Liv. However, with this oil more resins come forward and I recognize palo santo under patchouli and the maple leaves. I wore Gate of Autumn for the last full moon and this is a lovely blend for meditative wanderings late at night. It's not heavy and stays close to the skin. Final observation to mention, I also think my chemistry devours fig and amps the maple with palo santo in Gate of Autumn. The Veil is Thin (A potion for seances, mediumship, and communing with the ancestors. Chilled opalescent musk entwined with sheer vanilla orchid, white heliotrope, and pale citrus infused with mugwort, borage, and blue yarrow. Wear this diaphanous scent to walk between the worlds and speak with the spirits. Anoint white or purple candles to heighten psychic sensitivity.) The above is dead on with the "sheer" description as The Veil is Thin is another aptly named creation. This smells gauzy and wistful without being overpowering with the citrus and heliotrope. It's nicely balanced and can be called "your skin but better" type of fragrance. I will be wearing The Veil is Thin when I attend various supernatural-themed events this season. I must also note, Nui Cobalt Designs showcases vanilla wonderfully and my chemistry and nose both approve. Crown of Hecate 2018 (Enchanted on the day of the Solar Eclipse in the 21st degree of Cancer, this blend evokes the ancient mysteries of the Sacred Feminine in her dark aspect. Moonflower and myrrh over almond milk tea, shining white amber, and a pillow of sheer vanilla. Wear this potent blend to invoke the Goddess and to inspire Her divinity within you. It is particularly supportive of people in crisis, survivors of abuse, and defenders of socio-economic equity.) I get this lovely warm buttery glow that smells like a bit of almonds, floral and something like smooth liquid silk with this blend and I'm falling for these "your skin but better" creations from Nui Cobalt Designs (they stay close, but feel incredibly elegant and personal). As Crown of Hecate (2018) dries, gorgeous vanilla amber and powder from the moonflower and myrrh appears and I need more recommendations please for another perfume by Nui Cobalt Designs with amber with vanilla. I want.them.all! Starlight & Spider Silk (Swift and skillful, her instinct's artistry glimmers with deadly precision. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans.) I don't know how Forest did it, but this is the scent of clear gossamer swaying in the breeze and morning dewdrops with elegant vanilla. On me, there is something nearly floral and creamy about Starlight & Spider Silk (don't you love all of these poetic and perfectly matched names?) and I do believe this perfume will be my next purchase. I don't have anything to compare this oil to currently in my vast collection. Wow, this is stunning and I can't help but think of waltzing spirits and one song in particular when I have Starlight & Spider Silk dabbed all over. I can expect 12 hours of sophisticated perfection with this perfume and couldn't have asked for more. In addition to elegant perfume blends that I love to accompany me to the workplace setting and events, Nui Cobalt Designs offers a wide assortment of fragrant sundries and you know I just had to indulge and start collecting. Waipio Valley Soy Candle (The Valley of the Kings is adorned with towering waterfalls, a crescent black sand beach, and a palpable primal energy. This sacred space has survived two tsunamis without a single casualty. Dark myrrh and vetiver, sand-smoothed teak wood, kava kava, rain-drenched ti leaves, and a subtle touch of dry coconut husk. Burn this mysterious candle to wrap yourself in fiercely loving protection, ward off malicious energy and restore a sense of security.) Waipio Valley is a creamy fresh smell with a calming mysterious woody aroma I can't place, but I enjoy and would repurchase. This candle has definitely strengthened in terms of throw as I can detect it as I'm typing at the Kitchen table and I just adore the cosy atmosphere it is creating. I'm not usually a "clean and fresh" sort of collector, but I would get a vial of Waipio Valley to wear and repurchase this candle (Nui Cobalt Designs is changing my mind about certain scent profiles). Beltane Fires Bath Spell (A sensual bathing potion to celebrate the Pagan sabbat of fertility, pleasure, and earthly delights. Smoldering maple wood and birch bark, honeycakes with toasted almond and nectarine, piquant ginger and the faintest trace of understated patchouli.) Ingredients: Epsom salt, iodized salt, red Alea salt, sodium bicarbonate, corn starch, organic ginger root powder, fragrance. 1.5 oz mini jar. After falling hard for Nui Cobalt's honey and smoky maple wood accords I knew I NEEDED this bath spell in my collection and first impressions the scent upon opening the jar is divine, being sweet and fruity with just a hint of wood smoke. Needless to say after that brief session of making embarrassing noises while sniffing the jar, I raced off to the bathtub with Beltane Fires and the honey fruit scent wafted gently around my bathroom for as long as it took me to run the hot water. In comparing this formula to other bath treats I've tried, the scent is delicate and doesn't cling to my skin long, however, the ingredients are very skin loving and I could definitely notice my arms were less tight and it worked wonderfully on my painful muscles and joints. Saying all that, I do have to address that the jar is TINY, I guess I didn't realize what 1.5oz meant and was a bit shocked at the size of this adorable glass jar (complete for a darling bow when it arrived); luckily a sprinkle or two is all I need so even after a few months the mini container is half full and in the end, I would repurchase Beltane Fires in the bath spell and perfume format. Hex Breaker Bath Spell (Banish malefaction and ill will with this powerful purification ritual. Lemon, angelica, eucalyptus, dill, and sage are brightened by blackberry and grounded in dark patchouli, pipe tobacco, and vetiver.) Ingredients: Epsom salt, Kosher salt, Hawaiian black lava salt, sodium bicarbonate, dill weed, angelica powder, fragrance. 4.5 inch corked vial (12 cm) roughly 1.8 oz weight *a free gift I found nestled in with my order, thank you so much, Nui Cobalt Designs! I know it shouldn't matter and it sounds silly, but I love this vial bottle! It's shaped as a test tube and even has a cork topper and I feel like I'm about to conduct some kind of naughty forbidden experiment when I uncork and sprinkle the black, gray and white granules into the running bath. The scent of intoxicating eucalyptus hits me nose first along with light lemon and that fragrance turns almost recognizable as peppermint when it hits the water. It's soothing and calming plus loves my skin and again it shouldn't matter, but it's entertaining to shake and combine the colours in the vial. It almost looks like exotic sand. Yes, I'm easily amused and yes, I would purchase this for myself or a friend. Hex Breaker is a conversation starter from the presentation to the unique fragrance. Here's another collection of incredible scent art that only leads me deeper into the indie rabbit hole and ultimately introduced me to a new turn in the warren tunnels (the opportunity to purchase decants from across the indie realm). *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. Exsanguinated (A vampiric fragrance for seduction and allure. Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smouldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses. Wear when in pursuit of prey or add to love-drawing baths to amplify their power.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Please allow this smoky, boozy, dark and dangerously seductive number to take another bow and feel free to come closer as this is truly the scent of gothic beauty and even holds the ability to take my dreams to some unexpected vivid places. I can't recommend Exsanguinated enough for those who seek some darkness and confidence. *Full bottle purchased Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with soft vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. Ah! It's a Pre-Raphaelite painting in a bottle. Just magnificent! Brava! Scythe of Saturn (Crafted under the auspices of Saturn's direct station in his domicile of Capricorn, this sacred oil invokes the virtues of patience, diligence, maturity, responsibility, and wisdom. Metal and myrrh, ancient oak and blue spruce, bay laurel and Earl Grey. Wear when you need the inner strength and self-discipline to cut away what no longer serves you.) *this sample arrived with my purchased bottle of Exsanguinated In the vial, Scythe of Saturn is an enchanting combination of realistic spruce and myrrh that brings to mind a dark evergreen forest and shifting bitter winds. When applied though, the spruce disappears almost immediately and I'm greeted by a cosy and creamy meditative blending of myrrh and realistic smelling tea that plays nice with my chemistry (LOVE Nui Cobalt's tea blends) along with a hint of metal at the base. Absolutely another keeper. Pele's Fire (An ode to the primordial volcano goddess who creates as she destroys. Sacred ʻōhelo berry, torch ginger, ʻōhiʻa flower, lehua honey, skin musk, and woodsmoke.) Mark this blending down for a list of unfamiliar notes that creates one fiery sweet smokey gem I could huff all night. My inner shimmery amber dragon is pleased with the luscious woodsmoked honey that amps and stays for 10+ hours. The mysterious berry and warm citrus-like ginger are present dancing in the background, but Pele's Fire belongs to the exotic flames entwined with sweetness from the honey my skin attaches to. Here's another unique stunner in my vast collection and one my inner dragon wishes to hoard away next year. Ghost Cat (A fuzzy phantasm to guide and guard you as you pierce the Veil. Cashmere, white amber, and ethereal ivory musk with blushing peony and pink peppercorn toe beans. Wear this spectral scent to call upon the aid of friendly spirits. Anoint white or lavender candles in rituals of divination or mediumship.) Nui Cobalt Designs has one fantastic way with romantic ambers and Ghost Cat is another scent potion that beautifully showcases this shop's handling of sophistication and bringing to our noses something that smells insanely expensive while at the same time making this scent personal as it hugs the skin. I don't know how Forest does it, but here is another perfume that fits right into the office setting and could set off an elegant designer gown. I want to call Ghost Cat another "clean floral", however, it's so much more than that. On me, I get the bright peony that morphs slowly into this soft powdery amber with a hint of pepper. It's so intriguing and fancy smelling. Ghost Cat has found a place next to Starlight & Spider Silk, Au Bal Masqué, Love and Mourning Veil on my vanity. Manta Ray (Fathomless blue grace under moonlit waves. Iced blueberry tea, cold salt water, and bubbles glistening through ambergris accord. Wear this dark aquatic scent to connect with your deep intuitive voice. It is particularly helpful during dreamwork and divination.) In the vial I get tropical Bubblicious bubblegum I remember chomping down on at football games in high school but holy crow does this beauty morph on my skin and become fizzy/bubble saltwater with realistic blueberry (this shop's blueberry accord is perfect) and I'm in love. Ooh, you know what this reminds me of? Sixteen92's Habanera only with blueberry and salt. There is a hidden floral note drifting slowly to the midground and I definitely recognize the blueberry from Grey Cat in Manta Ray. An hour later a surprise wisp of smoke or ashes slowly rises catching my full attention and my applause. Well marking down another bottle to grab for next summer. This blueberry fancy water fragrance needs to come home to me. First Harvest: Grain (Acres full of sunlight, tall and bountiful, a golden expanse of promise. The earthy scent of oatstraw and hay drying in the late-summer fields. Wear this scent to attract abundance and manifest wealth. Anoint copper pennies and bury to the East of your home to sow the seeds of prosperity.) Exactly as it says on the tin! I get sunwarmed hay and straw, the shifting colours of golds and brown you see in country fields. It even has that magical "buttery" scent present you get with oatstraw (and now Sting's Fields of Gold is playing in my head on repeat). First Harvest: Grain makes me homesick and I found another vial to treasure. For those curious, this is a fabulous oil to layer to create some comforting depth to different perfumes. Favorite Sweater (The perfect balance of cool and cozy. White oak and blonde teakwood, copal resin, crushed coriander, lamb's wool accord, a touch of creamy chai, and a spritz of green mandarin. Wear when you need comfort and a sense of security.) I know this oil is listed under the Autumn collection, but Favorite Sweater takes me immediately to winter and I'm wearing a big fuzzy pale green sweater by a roaring fire. To be honest, it reminds me so much of a beloved pale green soft sweater I wore until it fell apart, haha, so this scent potion is aptly named. I know nutmeg is not listed, but I swear I smell something very similar to nutmeg in this, perhaps it is the coriander or chai? I know where Favorite Sweater is going in my box and I hope this scent returns next year. The last batch I'm about to ramble about came from Ajevie and was my first (but certainly not last) purchase from them. Excellent customer service practices to be found on this helpful site and I'm very pleased with the sizes of the "slinks" and "slonks" (terms of measurement of the vials and little screw top bottles they sell) I purchased as I have plenty of oils to test in each vial and ampule. I also have to mention the professional-looking labels that have the name of the perfume in an eye-catching font and the list of the description of notes attached on the slinks (you know that all took time to do and I greatly appreciate the extra touches). Bad Moon Rising (A gentle protection blend to carry your through the tough times. Wild violets, Adirondack blueberries, star anise, blackcurrants preserved in maple sugar with clove and a touch of almond. Wear during inauspicious astrological events or bouts of plain "bad luck." It has a talent for steering the winds of fortune in a more helpful direction.) I always feel like I'm playing Russian Roulette when I dab on anything with violets listed, but I'm happy to report Bad Moon Rising is another surprise winner for me! This blend opens with my ultimate note weakness being star anise and it is brilliantly swirled with realistic blueberries then violets softly waltz through creating a spicy fruit powdery-floral collage that all makes me huff my wrists with no headaches or any nausea to jot down. Another spin on the indie realm chamber ending in unexpected smiles and now I'm eyeing Olympe de Gouges hard for more lovely violets to collect from this charming shop's scent library. Appalachian Autumn (An homage to the Nature Spirits. Deer musk accord, campfire smoke, birch trees, angelica, ripe pears and rain. Wear to align your energy with that of the wilderness to invoke its many blessings. It's particularly soothing and supportive through the changing of the seasons.) I truly hoped this oil would make me burst into a severely off key rendition of John Denver's classic "Take Me Home, Country Roads" but sadly Appalachian Autumn was my least favourite out of this batch. On me, it resembles masculine soap and expensive smelling cologne. I don't get any highly anticipated pears, smoke or any atmospheric element on my skin. Perhaps it would fare better in my curls or in a whipped soap? I knew my wonky skin chemistry would get me sooner or later with one of these blends. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Mourning Veil (Somber elegance with a touch of mystery. Melancholy layers of black vanilla bean, white sandalwood, petrichor, tear-stained taffeta, suede gloves and a silk-lined mahogany coffin. Wear this gothic bouquet to soothe a weary heart and ease sadness. Add a drop or two to the bath when you need to release negative feelings and restore emotional equilibrium.) This is strangely beautiful and one hard to put down fragrance once a surprise element appears that creates one flipping gorgeous gothic scene complete with a gauzy black veil. I said it before and I'll say it again, I don't know how Forest does it. I never knew how much I adore sandalwood until I tried Nui Cobalt and I'm officially a collector of that note now. I chose wisely with picking up Mourning Veil despite my fears of certain notes listed, the suede note is soft on me as well as the mahogany (what wonderful scent sorcery is this?). Here's another keeper and one that tells one lovely creepy scent story. Pale As Death (Wan and bloodless phantoms move forlorn among the headstones. Funeral lilies, datura accord, luna moths on cotton flowers, and white clover along a graveyard path. Wear this conciliatory potion for support in times of sadness. It is particularly helpful through the process of grieving.) Au Bal Masqué, is that you? This fragrance smells so similar on me and yet more of the cotton flower amps, making me think of ghost laundry. The distinct clover is there hiding in the background and I wish it came more forward and I don't get the gothic bouquet I was hoping for. Still, Pale As Death is a nice sister scent of Au Bal Masqué and I will use what is in the vial while dreaming of owning a full bottle of the blend that smells it belongs in the ghostly court of Marie Antoinette. Trembling Aspen (Among the first trees to change color, it exchanges subdued green for a bright, buttery yellow that complements the afternoon light. But perhaps its most distinguishing feature is the rapid, fluttering movement of its leaves. Flat leaf stalks give the Trembling Aspen's foliage a unique quiver in the breeze, seeming to sparkle in the long shadows of September. Sunflower petals, delicate strands of saffron, crystallized ginger, and candied kumquat. Wear this scintillating scent to evoke courage and confidence.) Trembling Aspen was a last-minute addition to my basket and wow am I pleased with this blend! As much as I love Bad Moon Rising, Trembling Aspen takes the coveted spot for number one pick out of this batch from Ajevie. I'm still training my nose so I can't identify the saffron, however, I do get sunflower petals rubbed between my hands, ginger and candied fruit that I'm guessing is the kumquat. There may also be some unlisted oakstraw in this as I detect that mysterious "buttery" quality in this that can be found in the fields late summer and First Harvest: Grain. The description of Trembling Aspen is dead-on as this smells like a golden tree in autumn. Instant love and recommendation. Nui Cobalt Designs and Ajevie |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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