One Note At A Time: Cimetière du Père Lachaise - Paris, France (Notes: Faded lipstick, moss-covered brick, hazy morning fog, discarded petals, packed dirt, chestnut wood, distant chimney smoke) ☠This largest cemetery in France is the final resting place of several famous artists, writers and dancers. Some names you may recognize are Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan, Peter Abelard and Héloïse, Frédéric Chopin and Jim Morrison. Opened in 1804, Cimetière du Père Lachaise started off as the additional interment of Paris's deceased after the closing of the over-packed Cimetière des Saints-Innocents which is another famous cemetery that has been featured in a few pages of fiction- Anne Rice's The Vampire Lestat (this won't be the last we hear of Lestat in this long overdue review of iconic cemeteries) and Patrick Süskind's Perfume. Not to be outdone Cimetière du Père Lachaise has been mentioned in works and films such as: Victor Hugo's Les Misérables, Alexandre Dumas's The Count of Monte Cristo and The Doors. Opening the vial I'm greeted by the sensation of realistic cold air and the scent of dirty stones and dusty brick. The cold dirt encrusted stone with an roll of aged moss intensifies on the skin and a billow of ashes and smoke spreads across this dark scene. You can easily imagine yourself walking into this locale surrounded by centuries-old monuments with poetic epitaphs and fitting tributes. Nearly an hour later a distinct vintage lipstick fragrance wafts out of the lanes and pays a lovely homage to the once popular tradition of kissing Oscar Wilde's tomb. It's at this point of this atmospheric tour that I'm reminded of an unfortunate miss perfume that ended up a disaster with my chemistry- Hydromancy. Ever so slowly that medicinal induced nightmare creeps out of Cimetière du Père Lachaise and I'm still at a loss what exactly my chemistry morphs with to resemble old fashioned cough syrup on a metal spoon, the violets, the fog note? It remains a frustrating mystery. All I can end this round with is I do prefer Cimetière du Père Lachaise to Hydromancy as one will allow me more time to enjoy the nifty realistic atmospheric elements before changing over and it fades softly after a few hours versus launching into a full on assault on my poor head whilst amping to the heavens and back. Highgate Cemetery - London, England (Notes: Earl Grey tea, lavender sprigs, juniper berry, ivy, gravel, crumbling cobblestones, delicate fallen leaves & soft mittens) ☠Part of the "Magnificent Seven" located outside of central London, Highgate Cemetery opened in 1839 and has the status of being a duel nature preserve and is a popular site to pay one's last respects to several movers, thinkers and entertainers of different eras. It is also a location that is believed home to a supernatural being known as the "Highgate Vampire", this figure real or not, Highgate is where you will find tombs and markers to: John Galsworthy, Bob Hoskins, Lizzie Siddall, George Eliot, Malcolm Tierney and Henry Gray. For a fragrance inspired by the stalking grounds of a demonic vampire this blend is surprisingly uplifting, peaceful and pretty. A non-soapy earl grey tea with an additional grating of bergamot and soft buds of lavender is dominant on my skin with a background of crumbled stone and juniper sprigs. Highgate Cemetery is nothing like I was expecting (I was hoping for the inclusion of ink for a nod to all the brilliant authors and poets interned in the grounds and to be perfectly honest, a drop of blood included), however I oddly enjoy this one and I can see myself reaching for this vial in the dead of winter. On the long dry down Sixteen92's infamous textile and tactile accords appear with something resembling worn yarn mittens and warm skin. Highgate Cemetery is a cosy unobtrusive medley with drops of nature and I can understand why it was a smash hit this past autumn. Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles, California (Notes: Glamorous satin and soft feather fringe, black fig, orris, tonka, bourbon on the rocks, smoked cardamom, cold marble) ☠Even though recent rockstars such as Chris Cornell and iconic childhood voice actors as Mel Blanc reside within the sprawling 40 acres of land, this cemetery was founded in 1899 and has gone under numerous renovations and name changes. Hollywood Forever Cemetery is the current moniker and this site is loaded with Tinseltown's elite departed. I could rattle off names all day, but to save time, I'll list the names I would love to pay respects to (including Cornell and Blanc): Estelle Getty, Burt Reynolds, Lucille Bliss, Marion Davies, Judy Garland, Virginia Rappe, Mickey Rooney, Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel and Rudolph Valentino. The glitzy and elegant spirit of Old Hollywood comes through brilliantly in this blend. A celebratory fig that reads as a cranberry cocktail opens this perfume and then this soft realistic textile element slowly presents itself to take this wearer into her fantasies of time travel back to the golden era of cinema and donning a satin white floor-length gown with a feathered boa and patter of powder (if only for 6 hours). The twist ending of this scent experience is a photo-realistic smooth cold marble or ice note that hits the mid-nose reminding me this is a haunting tribute to the heyday of silver screen classics. Sixteen92 channels another bygone era for me and Claire is the undefeated Queen of Atmospherics in my book, brava! Lafayette Cemetery No 1 - New Orleans, Louisiana (Notes: White mandevilla, sooty dragon’s blood, wild datura, wrought iron gates, muddy clay, living moss, chicory root, bone dust, chalk) ☠Unlike the other cemeteries on this scent tour, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 is closed to the public due to it's unfortunate dilapidated state (from natural disasters and vandalism). It was founded in 1833 and I was not able to find a large list of any easily recognizable figures, this final resting place seems more centred around founding families of New Orleans and it was a hot spot of paranormal activity and tourists spanning back to the 1990s with the popularity of The Vampire Chronicles series and various music videos. In the vial Lafayette Cemetery No 1 presents as a cold floral to the nose. It changes on application as a distinct rusty iron aroma collides with the top white florals and a dusty chalk wafts over the senses. It's another transportative scent potion. I wouldn't call Lafayette Cemetery No 1 a true autumnal blend, it almost has a hidden humidity in it that brings to mind the end of summer and right when you can feel the first nip in the air. As time ticks on, more earthy notes appear and Sixteen92' trademark dragon's blood becomes more noticeable turning this thick (nearly soapy) floral into an almost sinister realm. In ways, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 shares similar qualities of Necromancy. Between the two perfumes, Necromancy is still my top pick. Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán - Oaxaca, Mexico (Notes: Wreaths of marigold & cockscomb, dusty cocoa, canela, sugar cube, flickering votives, honey cakes) ☠Undoubtedly the oldest cemetery on this inspired olfactory journey (the founding dates flucuate from the 18th to the late 16th century), Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is best known for it's Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations and traditions. This cultural celebration of life, death and family starts on the morning of October 31st and continues into the month of November. Offerings are made from little bells to booze and sweetened pumpkin. Somehow I think Sixteen92 has waited years to offer a scented "eulogy" to this fascinating place and the Day of the Dead as Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is everything exotic, ambient and tasty rolled into one oil. For placement of favourite perfumes within this set, Hollywood Forever Cemetery is my top choice with Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán a close second. I didn't expect to say that but hands down Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is the best marigold perfume I have found in the indie realm and I'm in awe how nice my chemistry plays with every note listed. If you love dusty peppery florals with a twist of pseudo-gourmand (the foodie notes are there but I promise you, you won't smell like a bakery) this one is a must to have. As with every oil in the Memento Mori collection, Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán smells like a specific location, holds a different feeling and you can tell it was extremely well-researched. Querida (Blood red roses, ceylon cinnamon, smouldering resins, golden amber, ethereal swirl of opium) In addition to cemeteries around the globe/ Memento Mori, Sixteen92 unveiled an Addams' Family set for Fall 2020 and I had to get my claws on Morticia's inspired fragrance. It's taken 6 months but I think I finally have this oil aged and I'm slowly falling under it's particular spell. Now I must admit, the vial wand doesn't hold the most encouraging aroma as I get paint thinner and something masculine smelling (all pinching threatening to turn into one humdinger of a headache), but once applied Querida begins to intrigue and seduce. A thick smoke mix of ancient practices appears first then the dark roses slowly reveal themselves along with a lacing of sweet opium. It's just when the realistic roses and vintage amber that Sixteen92 excels at begin to bloom and take my mind away that the full story and scene of Querida comes clear, this is that beautiful tango scene from the sequel film which made and still makes all little black hearts flutter and vow to learn to dance and never settle. Querida is spicy, exotic, dark, dangerous and full of passion. Who doesn't want to smell like that? Death By Stereo! (Night air on the boardwalk, spun sugar and cider, melted ice cream, cannabis accord, whirling tendrils of nag champa) Here's another that needed quite a bit of aging, however unlike Querida, I'm still not sure about Death By Stereo! as it's sadly forgettable. The brief opening is lovely smelling of cool fall air, spilled apple cider and sweet sticky delights then it transforms entirely into soapy incense and stays that way all night. As much as I want to love Death By Stereo! as the legion of fans who recommended this perfume, I don't think this ode to one of the most iconic and quotable vampire films is for me. I'm going to pass Death By Stereo! along to a friend. (*Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Oh What Fun! (A bustling winter gathering filled with warm wishes, mulled wine, dried winter figs, cranberry garlands, smoky tonka, vetiver, amber and a whisper of incense.) Mmm, one whiff and I knew I chose wisely with this seasonal oil. I adore the tart scent of cranberry and when added to the mulled wine and hidden pine then it's a merry party. Funny enough it could very well be a sibling fragrance to Hollywood Forever Cemetery (with the tonka, amber and refinement elements), only this is the before holiday party with bulbs flashing and Hollywood Forever is what happens after the lights go out behind the locked gates. No surprise, Oh What Fun! easily landed on my list for favourite holiday perfumes I tried this past year and just like Hollywood Forever Cemetery and Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán, I hope these perfumes all return in 2021 for an encore! Sixteen92 |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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