*I'm about to get a little nerdy, you have been warned... With an official announcement that the coming of winter will be delayed another year for the A Song of Ice and Fire series, there seems to be plenty of time now for waiting patiently to be delivered pages about the countless characters' fates and future of the Seven Kingdoms. There also seems to be plenty of time to explore and collect from houses of fragrance on the horizon and so it goes for this summer child who grew curious if it was possible to somehow combine her addiction to the entertaining realm of historical fantasy with another obsession (perfume oils) and ultimately share something unique within the disinfected halls she roamed at night. A tall order to fill but not impossible but ah, one day's long search turned into a journey that thankfully ended at the perfect time when I found Sucreabeille and the Frozen Embers limited releases. I admit I lurked in the shadows waiting for exactly what I sought and then I saw my heart's desire in the form of a collection that almost made me break my mouse to order while The Rains of Castamere played in my head (or that could have been my phone next to me). With the creative descriptions, scent notes listed and two of my personal favourite characters receiving their own inspired perfumes; everything had to come home to me so I treated myself and pounced on my mail carrier when I saw my parcel shipped in record timing. The Lannisters demand respect and Sucreabeille certainly paid homage to this golden house with five dram sized bottles and I can't thank them enough for taking on that task, their excellent customer service, and of course delivering something to remember and recommend. One Note at a Time: CERSEI--Scent notes: white thyme, black pepper, black jasmine, amber In the bottle: A herbaceous entanglement of pepper, floral and amber that is dominantly leading with the THYME and PEPPER. It's unexpectedly striking and memorable. *I do admit this particular collaboration of notes at first confused me as for such a long time I envisioned a completely different idea of what my favourite character on the board of "where you live or you die" would wear. Ah, but flipping through the familiar pages of the beginning books, I soon realized after the first application that Sucrebeille paid creative homage to Her Grace. Applied: On initial opening, this fragrance is masculine and as we remember from the books Cersei laments to her father she wishes she was born male to rule them all, so of course her inspired perfume would have to be fierce and unconventional. The thyme which adds to that first impression when dabbed on the skin is an interesting selection but also makes sense as Cersei Lannister is no delicate common garden rose nor easily blown over (even with threats of dragons breath) or will wilt, she is hardy like a herb growing stronger with the passing seasons. The jasmine that sweeps into the medley with the pepper and distinct note of thyme adds a touch of traditional beauty and as this bottle ages, a powdery side (even a drop of honey?) reveals itself creating an alluring wicked shift of scent along with the amber. CERSEI is not for the weak and I adore that about this oil and reach for it when the exact mood sets in. *Passing the knowledge along: The inspiration of Cersei Lannister like so many other characters in the A Song of Ice and Fire series comes straight from history. Reportedly Cersei is based on Margaret of Anjou, Isabella of France and Catherine de' Medici (all women you never would have wanted to cross, insult their house or threaten their children). JAIME---Scent notes: juniper, sage, neroli, patchouli, cedar, saffron In the bottle: A fitting mixture of woods, herb and earth that continues the herbaceous nontraditional notes found in its sister scent CERSEI. Applied: JAMIE opens with juniper, sage and patchouli. It may be obviously masculine in profile but is still wearable for a lady and as the oil dries more, neroli sweetens on my skin turning my head along with a cedar note. Hours later another sweetness (the saffron?) which has been hidden reveals itself and I swear I can pick up a drop of honey. I like to wear CERSEI on my dominant wrist (left) and JAMIE goes on my right wrist, you almost can't have the one without the other, they are twins in the books and now have their own sister and brother inspired perfumes. TYRION---Scent notes: Tahitian vanilla, fig, leather *cruelty-free/synthetic In the bottle: LEATHER and VANILLA. It captures the scent of well-thumbed tome or journal. Sorry, no whiff of wine here for our loveable silver-tongued imp and my third favourite character in the series. Applied: I adore book scents and TYRION is one of the best I've yet to come across and will fit well into my growing collection. There is no herbaceous note leading the way like in CERSEI and JAMIE, TYRION is softer and more welcoming but still unique. I'm familiar with what fig can do to my head (thanks to a certain commercial bath and body shop) but mercifully this indie creation has been gentle on my sensitive senses and I love it all the more for that. I will definitely be reaching for TYRION closer to fall (the ideal time for a good book) and adding this perfume to my scarves to blow in the winds. *Passing the knowledge along: The character of Tyrion Lannister is actually a brilliant composite of the author and the reader, as we turn the pages following different personalities and fates, Tyrion observes his surroundings with astute knowledge, quips about everyone and an outsider's eye. LIQUID GOLD---Scent notes: zanzibar spice, lavender, bergamot black tea First visual impressions: the bottle is loaded with gold dust and I can't stop shaking it to watch the gold swirl around. In the bottle: Uplifting BERGAMOT and TEA. There is also something dark noted that I'm hoping will soon reveal a sinister side of this fragrance based on my favoured house. Applied: The more LIQUID GOLD ages the more I'm liking this perfume. When it first arrived it was too clean and "happy" for me but a month later and it blooms with a dark side wonderfully on my skin, releasing black tea with spice. There is something that could be French Lavender (almost floral) but I really have to concentrate to get that note. As promised when applied the site shimmers with a gold sheen and I've been wearing LIQUID GOLD more than I initially thought. THE MOUNTAIN---Scent notes: amber, oatmeal stout, pure honey In the bottle: OATMEAL and HONEY with a swirl of AMBERY BOOZE. Completely unexpected from what you would think a monstrously sized man and an undead guardian would smell like. THE MOUNTAIN reminds me strongly of mead or a particular drink at the Renaissance Festival, I could sit here all day and lose myself in this bottle. Applied: Oh wow this confection of oil smells delicious with oatmeal and the glorious realistic honey amping the most. THE MOUNTAIN is pure scent intoxication and I will be reaching for this bottle through summer well into fall. Good thing I have a wardrobe and dresser filled with scarves, this perfume is going on everything for the colder months. *ADDITIONAL TREATS FOR THE SENSES (a special thank you to Andrea for sending me all these wonderful scents and creations) WILDFYRE---Scent Notes: Anise, Smoke and Cedar First visual impressions: Only fitting for a bottle based on the most feared ancient substance in the Seven Kingdoms to be a lovely shade of captivating green. Another entertaining looking bottle to shake up. In the bottle: ANISE and CEDAR. It wakes the senses and captures the hot glow of a consuming green flame in your nefarious imagination. Applied: WILDFYRE is truly otherworldly and a must try for spice lovers. Another oil not for the weak but splendid for others. On me, the anise opens leading to a cedar note that you easily imagine comes from a ship on Blackwater Bay listing as it sinks beneath the dark waters with smoke that now appears as WILDFYRE dries. Oh yes, I love this perfume. Another for the autumn and fall cache. SANSA---Scent Notes: Buttercream, Vanilla and Lemon Cakes In the bottle: One of the finest gourmands from any house of fragrance it has been my pleasure to smell. It's absolutely sublime! I'm seriously tempted to drink the bottle (I won't be gah I'm sorely tempted to try). For those that bake SANSA by Sucreabeille is what we have been waiting for, realistic frosted lemon cakes. A stunning tribute to my second favourite character in the series. Applied: ...I knew sooner or later my skin chemistry would ruin something for me from this collection (figures it was this delectable smelling bottle). It may have let me enjoy THE MOUNTAIN amping the amazing honey, but the lemon in the bottle of SANSA didn't stand a chance it seems and after slathering this perfume on, the frosting has slid off and I'm left with vanilla cake. Which admittedly isn't an entirely horrible thing, this is still a wonderful realistic cake fragrance that makes you hungry and garners the compliments from others. As much as I love vanilla cake, I think this is the perfect time to order a custom jar of soap fluff. **Yes, this shop offers so much more than perfume, they are a head to toe emporium filled with options that are all completely customizable with a list of notes that can be added and blended on request (getting any ideas?) Shortly after receiving (actually in truth, it was the day I opened SANSA from the carefully packed parcel) I couldn't resist and ordered a custom soap fluff.** SOAP FLUFF (SANSA)--Buttercream, Vanilla and Lemon Cakes If I thought the bottle was tempting to think about drinking, I'm even more compelled and about to lick the jar. The consistency of the contents is creamy with no noticeable lumps and it's absolutely divine with the scent. Scooping it out with a clean plastic spoon, this fluff is dense and spreads nicely where applied (a tiny bit goes a long way). I must say the delicate soap bubbles that form when rubbed in are moisturizing passing my personal test and as much as I adore the presented fragrance, I also appreciate that it doesn't linger so I can go and put another perfume on (even layer) without any interference of notes or confusion to my nose. Think Soap Fluff as the perfect well-deserved indulgence you help create, it only lasts as long as you stay in your personal sanctuary and tempts you back for one more soak. As well as this item worked on and impressed me (this serves as a fabulous shaving soap cream by the way), I can't help but think up another custom jar (or two and even future stocking stuffers) for fall and then winter (I must have pumpkin, smoke and hot chocolate and all combinations waiting for me to enjoy). *Passing the knowledge along: Sansa Stark is strongly believed to be based on Elizabeth of York who served as a key figure in the Wars of the Roses (especially in the aftermath) between the houses of York and Lancaster (simple version). The whole premise and plot of the book series has been said to be greatly influenced by that English civil war for control of a throne (again simplified version). York triumphed in the end at a horrible price, so who knows what the wheel of fate or scribble of a pen has in store for the Starks and Sansa. LOTION BAR (STAY SEXY VANILLA GRAPEFRUIT) A special treat the owner sent me with one order (thank you so much Andrea!) This bar is almost too pretty to use and I hesitated to cut into the lovely flower shape but it was well worth it as I have found my ideal feet and elbow product. My feet as petal soft and my elbows silky smooth. I see another pumpkin scented custom ordered item for my bathtub coming soon. PAPA'S WAFFLES *Sorry I missed the exact notes listed this was a Father's Day limited edition release, but I found the original description: "Picture it: Saturday morning, your childhood. Your dad and his impressive beard have gotten up early even though he was up late with friends, drinking and partying. He’s acquiesced to your demands for waffles, which he lovingly makes from scratch in the kitchen while drinking a strong pot of coffee. The whole house smells of baked goodness, coffee, maple, and butter. Bliss. That’s exactly what Papa’s Waffles smells like. It’s a delectable, nostalgic scent that’ll immediately transport you back to those happy, scrumptious times." In the bottle: BREWED COFFEE, WAFFLES and a hint of TOBACCO in the background. This shop is excellent at creating blends that smell realistic and make a baker proud and excited to find. Another bottle I'm tempted to drink. Applied: This is holiday mornings for me, all it is missing is a note of ink from a well-thumbed newspaper and this could be the captured scent memory of my beloved Pap making me breakfast. The coffee stands out the most on me as this oil dries and I also amp the buttery note. True to its description, absolutely transporting for happy, scrumptious times. I will be saving this bottle for winter and cold days when I need a smile. Sucreabeille sucreabeille.com/ The Last Days of the Romanovs: Tragedy at Ekaterinburg (The Romanov Sisters #1) by Helen Rappaport7/23/2018
After reading this book I feel the need to go and pray It's no secret I can't stomach disrespectful or dramatic speculative non-fiction and sadly The Last Days of the Romanovs: Tragedy at Ekaterinburg (The Romanov Sisters #1) is joining the bottom rung with The Radium Girls: The Dark Story of America's Shining Women by Kate Moore and Crown of Blood: The Deadly Inheritance of Lady Jane Grey by Nicola Tallis as my worst non-fiction regrets in recent memory. To be fair, The Last Days of the Romanovs: Tragedy at Ekaterinburg (The Romanov Sisters #1) had its moments where I couldn't turn the pages fast enough (unlike The Radium Girls) and Ms Rappaport certainly knows her history (and has her lists of accolades) but this book crossed an invisible line for me and I will not be reading another work from this or any author that foregoes such commanding beginning narrative for cheap sensationalist passages filled with "it's there for sake of drama" type of writing. I feel absolutely terrible to be so blunt and negative about any book but sometimes these things need to be pointed out. In the beginning, The Last Days of the Romanovs: Tragedy at Ekaterinburg absolutely beguiles, opening each chapter with a window into the daily actions of the eleven figures who are held in a house that has been converted into an inescapable prison. These types of narrative views that allow the reader to feel they are in the room watching the former Empress of all of Russia and her daughters sew or mend their remaining articles of borrowed clothing or the abdicated Tsar reportedly smoking and pacing in the small garden are then broadened out into the outside world beyond the staked palisade to the horrible conditions of Russia (and even further) in the year 1918. Those and the brief "life began" passages kept me reading and held my full attention to learn about the era and what could be considered to shape certain personalities mentioned. Perhaps I allowed myself to get too comfortable because it was about this point where I noticed the author's personal views rearing especially when it came to Empress Alexandra (I really should have known better after reading The Romanov Sisters: The Lost Lives of the Daughters of Nicholas and Alexandra (The Romanov Sisters #2) but just thought this time would be different)). Forgive me but I wanted to form my own opinion and final thoughts with solid facts but for some reason, there was an alarming lack of footnotes and it was difficult to tell what was imagined, fabricated for the sake of others' requirements (the publishers?) or simply scraped off from public consensus. I would have loved to have seen the excerpts from the repeatedly referred diaries or the letters the grand duchesses sent when they were permitted but these types of documentation opportunities were oddly absent in this title. Even with the list of above troubling negatives, I still found myself turning the pages (reading compulsion?) and in fact was ready to score this non-fiction work high on my recommendations but then the July 16-17th 1918 chapter appeared and I felt the need to go and pray after reading the contents. The details of the final moments of those eleven individuals (ranging from age 61 to 13) in that dimly lit basement and the attempts to coverup the murders in the surrounding forest are beyond horrific but even the worst of what is known to have happened (supported by multiple eyewitness testimonies and recent forensics) could have been shared in a respectful fashion and I was shocked and sickened that the narrative ran straight into such cheap reading at that moment. If you are curious by all means read that particular chapter for yourselves but for me, the chosen presentation was an insult to the seriousness of the topic and that invisible line I mentioned earlier was severely crossed and I never felt so strongly to take a moment from a title and apologize to the departed figures of the past before. After that never-ending section, the book continued to skid down further speculations and figurative lines which thankfully ended abruptly with a part that I'm guessing was meant to be deep but seemed to contradict alot that was built-up earlier in the text. I'm sorry but days later and I'm still shaking my head. The subject deserves better, the lost souls of the Russian Revolution deserve better and finally, I should have picked a different book. -read and purchased on kindle Also in this non-fiction collection: The Romanov Sisters: The Lost Lives of the Daughters of Nicholas and Alexandra (The Romanov Sisters #2) by Helen Rappaport The Race to Save the Romanovs (The Romanov Sisters #3) by Helen Rappaport EGP/July 2018 Ladies and Gentlemen may I introduce to you a couple of amazing shops and the talented scent genius behind them who wears many hats in the realm of indie fragrance. From candles to perfume this artist somehow conjures and bottles the essences of bygone eras and themes ranging from the demure to the downright macabre with a distinct fashion that I can't put down in any form whether it be my TITANIC inspired candle or my holy grail autumn perfume better known as SCARECROW (Yes, the long search is over!) The various bottles, vials and jars that can be found in his shops are beyond unique along with the fragrance branding that calls out to an old soul like me and to even hard to please trend forward relatives who walk in and ask: "what smells so good?" There really is bound to be a new olfactory addiction waiting for everyone within Werther & Gray, The Candle Parlour or MX Perfume. I admit I only was admiring the historical and culture-inspired candles at Werther & Gray (wertherandgray.etsy.com) ever since I joined ETSY and never thought I would be pulled into so many new wonderful choices of creative note profiles for my home and my own finally realized personal style but here we are and I can tell this is only the beginning of some extraordinary collections that I can't wait to display. Bravo on everything Charles! Werther & Gray wertherandgray.etsy.com The Candle Parlour candleparlour.com/ What better place to start a fragrance journey than where the heart is and our own sanctuaries away from the mad world. You know what is missing though? A flickering candle to cosy up beside and lend some timeless elegance to that personal space. If you are an armchair explorer of the past or simply love the classics Werther & Gray and The Candle Parlour are the places to see as the selections range from sweet florals to the darkly inspired (but dignified) fragrances and everything in between to grace your abode. On ETSY you will find a smaller listing that then leads to the huge library of other luxury candle options (and needful things) at The Candle Parlour. I have to admit after falling hard for the next history influenced creations I'm about to gush about, I have already begun to compile a list of future purchases ((that Jack the Ripper inspired candle, The Black Death jar scented with autumn leaves, Jane Austen and Pumpkin Spice canister (along with so many others) all need to be in my home)). TITANIC FRAGRANCE: Salt Water, Plum, Clove Leaf, Blue Amber Time from initial lighting to noticeable throw in a large room with fans: Around 7 minutes The gorgeous artwork on the jar alone is enough to take this historymagpie over the moon but the contents are just magnificent and make my senses swoon. The elegant ambience that radiates from TITANIC is perfect in my book and is exactly what I have been waiting to see for years from a candle (beloved history and unparalleled fragrance). The blending of plum with a hint of clove and salty amber creates an aquatic feeling without it being overwhelming or screaming "OCEAN" like other candles on the market that have always given me a horrible headache. Not one headache to report thankfully with this lovely soothing creation and it will always be a part of my home decor and I'm throwing out any Yankee Candles. POWDERED WIG FRAGRANCE: Orris & Orange Blossom Time from initial lighting to noticeable throw in a large room with fans: Around 8 minutes What can I say? I can never turn away from lovely illustrations and the decorative label featuring the brooding gentleman with his admiring lady on the jar of POWDERED WIG immediately caught my eye and made me think of an earlier version of Heathcliff and Isabella Linton from Wuthering Heights. It certainly looked like it had a story to tell and the fascinating trivia notes about the use of orange blossom and orris in actual wigs intrigued me all the more (plus I have been searching for a powdery candle with a meaning for a long time). Let me tell you the jar is even more stunning in person and the scent profile of POWDERED WIG is indeed soft and demure with such a beautiful welcoming quality from the delicate orange blossom and powdery orris. Not an overwhelming fragrance by any means but just a terrific starter candle for those curious about this fine collection of scents and historical inspirations. MX Perfume mxperfume.etsy.com Some things can't be merely explained or properly described they only need to be experienced and if you give MX Perfume a curious wave of the wrist you will quickly understand what I mean. I will say these marvellous perfumes hold such a captivating mysterious collective quality about them and for whatever theme, clever name, fragrance profile or iconic image that grabs your attention; you are in for a rare treat. BLASPHEMY (Listed Notes: Orange, Apricot, Osmanthus, Davana, Clove, Black Pepper, Ginger, Myrrh, Vanilla, Labdanum) In the vial: CLOVE, BLACK PEPPER, MYRRH and an undercurrent of dark FRUIT that melds so well into the spice and resins, it's positively wicked and divine! Applied: If you are a "spice fiend" who can't help slathering on fragrances with some heat and giving your nose a much-needed wakeup, grab BLASPHEMY and take your place inside the fire with MX Perfume (you won't regret it). On me, this oil opens with a mash of zesty spice and warm fruit that I can't pull my nose away from and as this scent potion dries it actually gets more pronounced akin to a growing flame with an underlining black pepper and something herbaceous stoking and giving it an extra kick on my skin. When it fades hours later, the final call goes to a faint peppery vanilla giving this wonderfully complex perfume a lasting soothing quality you can't wait to smell again. I love wearing this creation in the workplace setting or just standing on the breezeway letting the well-blended list of notes swirl with the wind and this fragrance is going right into my basket of "you need this". FULL MOON (Listed Notes: Thyme, Orris Tincture, White Lotus, Night Jasmine, Violet, Styrax, Ambergris (*animal-friendly/synthetic), Copaiba Balsam) In the vial: THYME, VIOLET and AMBERGRIS, it has a lovely obscure property to it that I'm excited to try. Hopefully, my skin chemistry behaves with the violet. Here we go... Applied: The more I wear FULL MOON and allow it to age, the more I'm falling under its spell. This and PAPER MOON (review to follow shortly) are both, unlike anything I have ever had the pleasure to smell before with the thyme amping on my skin and creating a pure elemental quality that adds another facet to seek out for my growing perfume collection. If PAPER MOON is the summer to early autumn version of the presentation of the moon in my mind, then FULL MOON is the intricate mysterious fall to winter arrangement with a herbaceous opening then unique florals, powder and a barely detectable sprig of balsam under everything. I will definitely be wearing FULL MOON for the Total Lunar Eclipse (the longest of the 21st century) happening at the end of this month (Friday, July 27th). SUGAR HICCUP (Listed Notes: Rosewood, Sugar, Ginger, Moroccan Rose, Civet (*animal-friendly/synthetic), Amber, Musk, Ambergris (* animal-friendly/synthetic)) In the vial: I don't want to get too excited but seriously, where has this fragrance been all my life?! It's so well blended but my nose clearly favours the ROSE and SUGARY AMBER that I absolutely love and fingers crossed it plays well with my chemistry. Applied: Could it be? Have I finally stumbled across a rose perfume that I can wear with no painful regrets or one that doesn't smell like hairspray? YES! Yes, I have. Complete thoughts fail me as I sit here and forgive me if I ramble or forego the "this opens with" but no simple description will do this haunting masterpiece justice (you just need to experience it for yourself). For me, SUGAR HICCUP is like wearable ethereal gossamer, a beautiful reminder of the lost past and I'm going to wear this floral scent year round. There is a warmth to the notes that will transition well for the colder months but there is also something so perfect about it for summer and spring (the ginger?). This jewel needs to come home to me as soon as possible and be nestled alongside my professional/confidence in a bottle cache of treasured fragrances (*full feature article coming soon if I can articulate on this wonder). SCARECROW (Listed Notes: Red Apple, Orange, Anise, Hay Absolute, Tobacco, Fenugreek, Cardamom, Vanilla, Vetiver) In the vial: Realistic COUNTRY FALL in all its spectacular glory! It's: breathtaking pastoral landscapes, climbing apple trees, long solitary walks in the hollow, haunted hayrides, apple festivals with spiced treats, corn mazes, ghost trails all magnificently captured and released in a flood of additional images. Just fragrance nirvana with special nostalgic properties and I want to live in the vial. Applied: I am truly in the presence of an evil scent genius who has somehow conjured into existence my autumn holy grail fragrance. It only took a year to stumble across this gem and as I dab (then paint then downright slather this fragrance on) and bask in everything this vial has to offer, I sorely wish SCARECROW came in multiple forms (candle, hair and bath for starters) because I'm seriously ready to just dump the vial over my head right now as I'm typing; it's so good! After going through pages on my extensive trove of fall themed oils, believe it or not, SCARECROW is the first to contain hay absolute and I'm delighted to share that it amps on my skin along with vanilla, cardamom and vetiver. If I can pull my nose away long enough and try to concentrate there is also something slightly smoky about it (the tobacco?) Sadly I must admit my treacherous skin chemistry causes this scent of my dreams to fade faster than the other vials I sampled in my pack but I have learned how to combat that baleful side of my chemical makeup with tricks that work for these few poor unfortunate oils and all I have left to say is: Take my money now MX Perfume! (*full feature coming soon on the 5ml bottle) ZOMBIE FEAST (Listed Notes: Hyssop, Thyme, Rum, Cognac, Coconut, Hazelnut, White Chocolate, Vanilla) In the vial: COCONUT, WHITE CHOCOLATE, HAZELNUT and VANILLA with a drop of booze in the background. ZOMBIE FEAST is definitely the gourmand option of the samples. I have no idea how this is going to play out but I'm excited to have it. Applied: You know I've always wondered what zombies smell in the air as they chase around potential victims on the screen and I should have known it would be something crave-worthy and positively yummy. On me, ZOMBIE FEAST is not "tropical" even with the coconut, it's akin to a decadent expensive creamy vanilla truffle with shredded coconut and hazelnut adorning it. A great choice for those of us who are wary of coconut and the "beachy realm" (no beach or suntanning lotion here just a toothsome confection that is sure to garner compliments). Like all the vials I tried ZOMBIE FEAST is very wearable in this insufferable summer heat and is another fragrance I will be reaching for when I'm not dousing myself in SCARECROW (hope the bottle lasts until fall). WHITE SUNSHINE (Listed Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Geranium, Iris, Jasmine, White Musk, Civet (*animal-friendly/synthetic), Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vanilla, Labdanum) In the vial: CITRUS and FLORALS that carry a summer breeze with it. I have a strong feeling I'm going to love this. Applied: It took me several times wearing WHITE SUNSHINE to figure out what this stunning fragrance reminded me of and it may sound odd but two things come to mind anymore when I'm enjoying this superbly blended creation, one is if the magical bioluminescence of a firefly had a scent it would be WHITE SUNSHINE and the other is the multi-faceted piece of symbolism known as the "green light" in The Great Gatsby. There is a romantic aspect to this fragrance that is both dreamy and complex but still ethereal (just out of reach) and I simply adore it. Into the basket, you go WHITE SUNSHINE and now I want to go outside and reread The Great Gatsby for the 180th time. DARK & STORMY (Listed Notes: Petrichor, Bergamot, Pear, Gardenia, Patchouli, Blue Musk, Leather (*animal-friendly/synthetic), Amber) *Too late did I see that gardenia was a listed note and for those readers following my ramblings, you will recall gardenia and I haven't played well in the recent past. Oh dear now I'm worried. In the vial: ...Did I receive the right vial? What is that exquisite note greeting me under the lovely petrichor, patchouli and bergamot? If this is what gardenias really smell like please get me a huge bouquet of them. I hate to get excited but it's impossible not to. Fingers and toes crossed... Applied: This may be called DARK & STORMY and I should be cursing my chemistry right now for turning this anticipated perfume into a calming spring rainshower versus a violent storm but oddly I'm not, I'm actually quite smitten as I sit here. On me, DARK & STORMY takes me away to a charming Old Hollywood set with a legendary starlet lounging in the parlour as a refreshing rain hits the window. Her trademark fragrance is creamy gardenia and it gently follows in her wake and lingers on the leather-bound script on the table as she moves to each new scene ready for her closeup. Overall another vintage romance in the making and I think MX Perfume just helped me turn a huge corner on appreciating a certain floral. Into the basket. BIZZARO (Listed Notes: Tangerine, Clary Sage, Raspberry, Mango, Jasmine, Gardenia, Cardamom, Olibanum, Blue Musk, Ambergris (*animal-friendly/synthetic)) In the vial: FRANKINCENSE, CARDAMOM, SAGE. There is probably a fruit note as well but my nose loves to single out resins, spice and herbs in anything. I'm extremely intrigued by this vial. Applied: Clary Sage greets me first and steers BIZZARO into the masculine realm (I bet this would smell amazing on a man) but as it dries the gardenia glides over along with the jasmine and an unknown fruit note slowly turning this fragrance on me to more feminine with a sprinkle of warm spice from the cardamom. It smells so expensive and I think it will only get better with aging. BLOOD LUST (Listed Notes: Wormwood, Tarragon, Citrus, Ajowan, Plum Blossom, Jasmine, Olibanum, Patchouli, Oudwood, Vanilla) In the vial: This strangely fascinating vial keeps changing every time I open it to test. Right now I detect JASMINE, CITRUS, PATCHOULI and TARRAGON. And now there's OUDWOOD. If BLOOD LUST is morphing already I can't wait to try it on. Applied: On me, jasmine commands the show for several minutes along with wormwood then prized plum and a twist of citrus slowly appears. When BLOOD LUST completely dries vanilla, oudwood and earthy patchouli stay the longest and keeps my nose down to my wrist. Like BIZZARO this perfume smells expensive and is one of the more masculine vials but still appropriate for a lady. Victorian Fragrance Co. *Sadly this line has been discontinued but it is definitely worth sharing. A special thank you to the owner for allowing me the chance to sample and enjoy these perfumes centred around my favourite era of time* PAPER MOON (Listed Notes: Honey, Almond, Thyme, Pear, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk) I've always had some kind of unexplainable connection to the moon and I'm so happy the owner sent this creamy otherworldly creation to me. PAPER MOON is so aptly named as it has this beautifully strange and wonderful papery-powdery quality to it and I can't stop smelling my wrists. This perfume is like an invisible strand of pearls that serves as the perfect final accessory to stand apart from the mundane but still stay classy and stately in any setting (also compliments any attire choice). I absolutely adore it! DAPPER (Listed Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Herbs, Carnation, Rose, Cedar, Sandalwood, Labdanum) I dab some DAPPER on when I'm dressed to the nines and want to beat the summer heat with something fancy and formal noted. I've already put a noticeable dent in the bottle so this will be another fragrance I'll be rationing but it is well worth it with the spicy and a smoke-like floral that opens with a delightful citrus and herbaceous note combination that actually stays on my finicky skin. Hours later, the florals with spice slowly fade and the final call goes to the sandalwood and cedar that stays into the next morning. They don't make vintage smelling perfumes like this anymore which is truly a shame. THE MOORS ( Listed Notes: Heather, Lilac, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean) *still currently aging but it is very promising with a floral mossy noted mixture that makes me want to hop a plane to the UK so badly (and probably never come back) to see the real moors. AUTUMN EVENTIDE (Listed Notes: Hay, Plum, Apple, Orange, Cinnamon, Clove, Musk, Blonde Tobacco) I can never have too many spiced apple oils and AUTUMN EVENTIDE is a classic that I will tuck into my fall trove. This perfume lasts longer in my hair and I love walking around in a halo of warmth and fruit with a scattering of tobacco. Definitely a keeper in my book. BLACK BOMBAZINE (Listed Notes: Frankincense, Labdanum, Black Musk, Clove, Plum, Rosewood) In the vial, this oil is a boozy floral with clove but completely transforms once it hits the skin and BLACK BOMBAZINE is for the plum and wood note lovers. It is meant to heavy and acts upon the imagination creating visions of stopped clocks and covered mirrors. Another keeper for reading certain subjects of interest. STILL LIFE (Listed Notes: Oakmoss, Narcissus, Musk, Peony, Lily, Mandarin) This fragrance starts off with a burst of addicting sharp lemon and peony that then dries down to a vintage scent collage leaning toward more powdery on me but still noticeably floral. This is a good oil to wake up and start the day with. TEA & CRUMPETS (Listed Notes: Black Tea, Milk, Musk, Red Apple, Orange) True to its name TEA & CRUMPETS is steeped tea with a splash of lemon and milk. A great summer alternative to the tropical fruits and sweet gourmands. I don't know what it is about apples and oranges that never seem to fair well with my temperamental skin chemistry (they sadly fade very quickly). Oh well, atleast my hair can smell like tea and fruit. Alkemia Perfumes
alkemia.etsy.com Thoughts: -You would be forgiven for thinking this marvellous creation is solely gourmand as the first sniff is luscious dark cacao and fresh lavender blooms with a hint of cardamon you can't seem to put down but Fleurs Historiques et Cacao is so much more and is full of surprises once it hits the skin. Right away a stately presence emerges from this blending stimulating the senses further along with your imagination sweeping you back to a courtly era others only dream they could present in a bottle then this crafted beauty fondly bids you farewell hours later with a soft floral-powdery wave akin to from a delicate lace handkerchief. Overall, absolutely inspiring and lovely for summer. Brava Alkemia! One scent at a time: Fleurs Historiques et Cacao *ULTIME version (Listed Notes: Dark Cacao, French Lavender Flowers, Black Cardamon Pods, Tea with Lemon Peel, Grapefruit Blossom and Vanilla Musk. In the bottle: FRENCH LAVENDER BLOOMS and ground dark CACOA with a hint of CARDAMON waiting in the background, it's sophisticated and a little heady. I can easily tell how this scent mixture would ensnare a king (it's simply memorable and beautifully addictive--Madame de Pompadour knew exactly what she was doing with this historic fragrance recipe). I must don lace and gold tonight, Fleurs Historiques et Cacao definitely demands my best! Applied: What we are presented with is an unapologetic feminine fragrance that commands your attention and sweeps you away to another time and place when it hits the skin. I immediately get the decadent cacao with the floral of the lavender blooms and these two play amazingly well with one another creating visions of a gilded French boudoir back in the 18th century with an open large window directly facing a summer parterre. There is something very airy even delicate about Fleurs Historiques et Cacao but at the same time, confident and I'm astonished the cacao is lasting on my skin (I must remember to purchase the ULTIME again if cacao is a listed note). I must also stop as I am getting looks from my coworkers as I obsessively sniff my wrists and move my hair so the blended poetry of the notes (now accompanied by a warm cardamon and noticeable bright citrus) takes me away each time my curls move. You know what, let them look, I don't care; this is a special night and I desired a fragrance that said "I have arrived in life" and Fleurs Historiques et Cacao is exactly what I wanted and will mean something whenever I wear it. Later long into the night, the floral and slight sweetness (that never resembles the scent of a bakery) takes on a wisp of romantic vanilla musk and then this perfume slowly fades with a glorious powdery finish that follows me out the door and into the light of dawn. Absolutely this is a special bottle for my collection and I can tell it will only get better with age (doesn't everything?) alkemia.etsy.com Opening up and probing around the medicinal cupboards and crypts of history Where I work there is a very large glass cabinet in one lone hallway filled with old stained bottles, rusted archaic tools of the trade, snappy advertisements and pictures from over a century ago that many just pass without a backward glance. Others may walk on by that trove of medical history but I could happily stand there all day staring at the corked green and blue vials (no doubt containing toxic ingredients that were thought at one time as healthful), vintage promises from "headaches be gone pills" to "cures for common stomach ailments" and jars of pinkish powders with faded out labels all the time thinking to myself "if only these items could talk and tell us their stories, what amazing things we could learn". It seems I can't help myself to visit that curious old display atleast once a night, it has become like a wise complex friend I want to know everything about. It's astounding to think how far the medical field along with specialities have come but at the same time, that dusty ignored cabinet is a sad reminder of today's society and mindset. It seems history (good or bad) is being forgotten or neglected more and more to be replaced with electronic noise or anyone willing to look up or around. That is a terrible thought but thankfully we still have intrepid authors who see the importance to share the mysterious past (and less than glamourous tragic tales) before it's too late that can all serve as cautionary stories or pure entertainment for the curious. I fall into that second category and Ms Herman's newest release (The Royal Art of Poison: Filthy Palaces, Fatal Cosmetics, Deadly Medicine, and Murder Most Foul) has certainly found a nice dark place among my special shelves of recommendations. In this fast-paced book, Ms Herman opens and probes around the medicinal cupboard of history with a detective's eye for clues and an advisor of a real-life physician at her side to examine the possible causes of unexplained deaths of historic figures and ultimately question if the times and firmly held beliefs within the eras they lived hastened their demise or something more sinister may be the answer we all should seek. From kings' mistresses to brazen reporters, every body contains an enlightening case to study as many names are introduced with a light biography, soon followed by a summary of the contemporary postmortem (complete with quotes from the individuals in the rooms conducting their own final investigations and preserving any possible needed testimonies) and finally a modern diagnosis. Although hard to put down in parts The Royal Art of Poison: Filthy Palaces, Fatal Cosmetics, Deadly Medicine, and Murder Most Foul did, unfortunately, stray out into the gossipy realm for this reader and certain chapters were more convincing with the "modern diagnosis" sections than others. I was also disappointed to notice an odd absence of cases from the late 19th century to early 20th century versus the earlier centuries discussed at length and I'm not sure if the ending had a hidden agenda or they just needed it as filler. Still, this is one non-fiction title to recommend and who knows if more books were written about these subjects, we all could someday look up and stare at the dusty glass cabinets in lone hallways instead of just walking on by. With thanks to St. Martin's Press and NetGalley for kindly sending me an advanced copy of The Royal Art of Poison: Filthy Palaces, Fatal Cosmetics, Deadly Medicine, and Murder Most Foul -EGP/July 2018 |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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