Thank you so much, Josh and Forest from Nui Cobalt Designs for allowing me access to these scent potions.
Belly Dance (An alluring potion to set the mood for The Sacred Act. Languid blue lotus, spiced date preserves, Egyptian musk, precious benzoin and dark myrrh in an infusion of marjoram.) Ailurophilia sheds her creamy caramel-suede sweetness and dons a diaphanous veil of exotic delicacies and resins with Belly Dance. This is a fragrance that is aptly named as body heat unleashes the slinky nature of this perfume, beckoning those around to come closer. Is that your skin that smells so good or is that just naturally you? Hmm? Oh, we shall never tell, haha. Belly Dance is one of those your skin but better with an extra seductive musky twirl that Nui Cobalt excels at. CanCan (A fun-loving potion to dispel anxiety and conjure a festive mood. Wild french frivolity with high kicks and black lace. Lavender lemon cupcakes and a touch of true cognac under ruffled red satin, sugared absinthe, and a wisp of fine tobacco in the footlights.) Sweet and a bit naughty as promised, CanCan hits the mark for a fun scent potion that offers a little of everything but is a must if you are seeking a summertime absinthe aroma that has a kick to it. The pastry batter of the lemon cupcake sprinkled with lavender buds opens the show then the green absinthe splashes out and the real affair begins. The tobacco is rolled into the herbal warmth of the absinthe and adds just a hint of fumes hanging in the air after the curtains close for the night and vanilla crumbles of cupcakes are left over after the party. Parisian Pink (My other favorite color. Peony petals, a suede settee, osmanthus, silk tree, spun sugar, Margaret Merill roses, pink grapefruit and antique sandalwood) Another beautiful Love and Ghost Cat sister scent with gentle florals, sugared sweetness and this round a splash of bright summertime fruit with grapefruit that stays true and doesn't turn into bubblegum. The sandalwood is one of the last notes to linger with an addictive creaminess and I keep checking the listing as I swear I smell a dab of vintage white amber. Everything about Parisian Pink is soft and elegant and apologetically feminine and I absolutely adore it. So excited to see it has joined the general catalogue; it's a sure crowd pleaser and deserves that special spot. Little White Rabbit (A chic, contemporary twist on our beloved Little Brown Rabbit. Nutmeg and tonka bean nuzzle up against cottonflower, white peppercorn, clove, vanilla marshmallow creme, pale blue cashmere, carrot seed and honeyed almond. Wear for cool confidence, grace and poise) Another highly anticipated vial that turned into disappointing expensive soap on me even with the marshmallow, pepper and vanilla. How odd. I'm beginning to wonder with my recent nearly 100 pound weight loss (it still doesn't seem real) if my chemistry has shifted and these types of blends I should avoid all together. Another vial for my whipped soaps and deep conditioning treatments. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of noes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Argentine Tango (In irresistibly sexy blend to raise and harness primal energy. Sleek scarlet musk, smoldering sandalwood and palo santo, crimson Malbec, molten caramel and dusky smooth tobacco lightly laced with black cherry.) Mmm, who knew black cherry could be so suggestive? This is boozy cherry lashed with caramel and the smouldering wood notes are in the background adding a touch of something extra and enticing. It brings to mind you went to meet your secret lover at midnight from Mystery of Maple Walk and then went twirling and dining in a candle-lit cave turned restaurant (was that an Addams Family Values reference? Why yes it was). That black cherry sets the mood for what is to come and the synchronized steps to follow. Definitely one of my favourites this turn. Eastern Chipmunk (A sweet scent for stability, comfort, and to attract earthly delights. Pecans and pistachios with Moroccan spiced coffee, black fig preserves, and roasted marshmallow. Wear when you need to gather resources and optimize your abundance.) The most sought-after Critter to date from this collection for myself and sadly my chemistry morphs everything into an overwhelming spiced root beer aroma that lasts a full day and half on me. Well, at least now I know. * Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of notes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Sugar Glider (A gentle blend to guide you toward good friends and kindred spirits. Raw cotton, sugar cane, flannel flower, macadamia nut, pearblossom, palest musk, and dandelion puff. Wear to attract compassionate people and nourish lasting connections) From my least favourite to a surprise treasured fragrance. Is Sugar Glider a floral-gourmand, a delicate fruit floral or a soft feminine summer powerpuff type of perfume that follows ever so gently in your wake? It's all these and allows your imagination to float and drift. The dusting of sugar and natural pearblossom and the slightest hint of macadamia create this comforting sweetness that is addictive and perfect for the professional setting or any stressful environment. Victorian Burlesque (Disguised as prim and proper, this bawdy seduction blend has a talent for titillation. Indigo musk, sparkling plum wine, night blooming jasmine, blackcurrant jam, green cardamom and cinnamon creme brulee) I'm really having some terrible luck with this round of vials as this one turns into grape bubblegum on me with indolic jasmine and little else. It's also too playful and young smelling for me somehow. I don't understand what is going on with this selection. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of notes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Banshee (In Celtic folklore this wailing woman of the Otherworld is a messenger of imminent death. Her cries echo the sacred tradition of Keening to mourn the passing of a loved one. Primrose over rain-soaked soil, emerald moss, ancient oakwood, mountain gorse and lamb's wood accord. Wear this phantasmic potion in times of grief that it may heal your heart and free you from sorrow). A beautifully described fragrance that unfortunately turns into burnt coconut and soap on me. I don't get any of the primrose or other listed atmospheric notes. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of notes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Rusalka (The vengeful Slavic river spirit who drowns any man who brings harm to a woman. The brisk scent of salty tears and ambergris accord, sacred benzoin, blue lotus, gently smoldering birchwood, and iced white tea. Wear this bracing aquatic scent to invoke the powers of Justice and Equity, keeping them close as protective guardians. A percentage of all profits for Rusalka will go to support Ukrainian people and families displaced by the current Russian invasion.) I'm not having very good luck with these gorgeously described and well-meaning fragrances with atmospheric elements because here's another that my skin chemistry morphed into an overwhelming soap scent. I do get the salt but the clean quality of Rusalka is too much for my nose. That's a shame. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of notes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Pas De Deux (An ethereal blend to conjure a fairytale romance. Diaphanous white rose glistening with pale citrus, sheer musk, juicy d'Anjou pear and the effortless grace of tonka butter.) And now it's time to take a turn with another lovely satiny floral combination that has captured my full attention and sweeps me away with just a tiny dab. With a slightly boozy introduction, Pas De Deux reminds me of Under the Mistletoe from a few Yules ago and it's just as pretty and welcoming to the nose and romantic senses. Vienna Waltz (An impeccably elegant black-tie blend to attract wealth and luxury. Richly polished mahogany, pink peony, Peru balsam, diamond musk and a swish of silk shantung) A downy kiss of floral powder and a hidden vanilla/spun sugar medley takes me far away from my cares and I fall more in love with Vienna Waltz with every wave of the wrist and swing of my curls. Another keeper and recommendation and bottle to watch for its return next year as I've fallen quite hard for the beautiful gentle floral petal softness of Vienna Waltz and can't help but think of famous Winterhalter paintings and portraits. Top choices (in no particular order): Sugar Glider, Belly Dance, Vienna Waltz, Parisian Pink and Argentine Tango Nui Cobalt Designs Full Disclosure and a bit of history: The following series of reviews are challenges between my finicky chemistry and Redwood's catalogue (and fiendish mind). After a fun lengthy discussion with the owner one evening, the gauntlet was thrown down over specific florals, bitters, fruits and whathaveyou of what 90+% of the time my skin would turn into pure hell. Round one is peach, jasmine and "something you think I wouldn't wear" *These were press lux perfumes provided by Redwood Alchemy in exchange for honest reviews (thank you again so much, Wren!) ___________________________________ 1978 (Cinnamon, Peach, Neroli, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Amber, Benzoin, Vetiver, Vanilla) A hedonistic fragrance for a new era that exudes a heady essence with smoke-edged florals and spiced visions that last the whole night well into the next darkening evening. 1978 is an intoxicating fruit-laced fever dream served over red incandescence that is something to experience for the end of summer into the autumnal months and one perfume I drape myself in like a dramatic sweeping peach-rouged dressing gown and call "my dirty pretty". Omixochitl-The Bone Flower (Tuberose, Aldehydes, Lily-of-the-Valley, Heliotrope, Vetiver, Amber, White Musk, *Hyrax, *Castoreum, Jasmine, Iris, Vanilla, Sandalwood) *real musks that were reportedly humanely and ethically sourced A transformative and empowering fragrance where tuberose isn't just queen of the night, she rules over all space and realms with shimmering aldehydes spangling her fair crown, a dagger strapped to her thigh and has an addictive ending to her scent story awaiting the curious. Omixochitl is a beautiful contrasting beast of soft with a touch of hidden sweetness and intoxicating wickedness and for me, the beginning and end of every dark romance and poem I have read or has flashed across the inspired silver screen. This is a floral-animalic to recommend that will take you long past midnight and not be forgotten in the court. Round One Results: Goes to Redwood! I now have another peach dominant perfume in 1978 to add to my rare corner of successes where the pungent aroma of feline stays within the confines of the litter box and doesn't waft around me and I've fallen hard for the addictive floral-animalic bite of Omixochitl and this is my summer 2022 choice pick. This duo came in like twin unbridled storms beckoning me to join the swirling empowering energy and break away from the traditional; I answered with my nose to my wrist and a resounding "YES!". Redwood Alchemy Nui Cobalt Designs 💫 Thank you so much, Josh and Forest from Nui Cobalt Designs for allowing me access to these scent potions. Dancing Bee (An ingenious infusion for foresight, guidance, and support in navigating your unique path. Peach trees barely budding, dewy white violet, honeysuckle, angelica and orris roots, frankincense, allspice, and spring harvest honey. Wear to banish brain fog, sharpen perception, and regain your sense of direction). A delicate floral-fruit sister scent to my favourite Bees Love Blue with a green cucumber-like opening. Admittedly this vial took a few weeks to settle with the curious green garden opening but it is now aged into a lovely mixture of gentle realistic peach skin, floral petals, vintage powder and Nui's infamous honey. Peach is such a difficult note for me and when I find a success it's an instant recommendation and Dancing Bee is just that. Longevity varies but with an intense workout this oil lasts 6 hours and when I'm stationary in the workplace setting about 10 hours with a sweet aquatic element leaving me last for the night. Equinophilia: The Love of Horses (A magnificent creature of effortless grace and power. Toasted oats, green and golden hay, living cedar, deep auburn musk, chestnuts, corn silk, saddle leather and galbanum. Wear to invoke your own sense of majesty, and to reclaim your poise and dignity.) Ever since I tried Nui's Kelpie I have been waiting patiently for a horse centred fragrance to trot out of a collection announcement and Equinophilia is that majestic themed creation with an aroma of sweet oats, musk, soft leather, hay and autumn memories. It somehow brings to mind a bakery delicacy served in a horse barn with the sweet after-effects of White-Tailed Deer. A uni-sex scent capturing the gentle softness and aura of a horse and bond/trust between rider and nature. Needless to say fantastic for sleep and very wearable for the workplace setting. Scorpio (A sophisticated perfume to reveal inner truth and inspire intimacy. Burgundy silk, dark chocolate, agarwood, lurid musk, aged patchouli and an indulgent melange of raspberry, plum and black cherry. Wear to dissolve inhibitions, to unveil power as well as passion, to engage in the sacred act of Trust.) A marriage of seductive Pluto with the best of the intimacy siren type of fragrances of all seasons that builds on your inner power and confidence. It's an assortment of emotions and energies Scorpio releases and stirs which is impressive coming from one vial. On me, my chemistry loves the rich warm dark fruit notes intertwined with the dusting of cocoa and underpinning of the cold patchouli and musk I recognize from Pluto. At the end of the night it holds an elegant mystique as well which I love as anyone familiar with a Scorpio sign dominant personality or chart knows, we have so many facets sometimes running hot or cold but all magnetic, unexpected and complex to explain. Ancient Apiary (Sleeping Beauty must have had hives of royal bees. And as the palace slumbered o'er a century, they must have floated among the thorns, unceasing in their art, undisturbed by the usual clamor of the court. This is the scent of that tiny Queendom that lived in perfect peace for 100 years. Deadfall draped in oakmoss, wild pink roses, honeycomb bursting from frail brood boxes and pouring gold from every cell. Wear this scent to align with the wild and unyielding spirit of Nature.) I think I would be remiss to not start this humble rambling with "Once upon a time" or "a dream" based on that superb opening description, Ancient Apiary captures that scene with an intoxicating swirling of smoky wood and florals surrounded in dark honey and beeswax. It waltzes a beautiful line between atmospheric and meditative and no surprise was one of my favourite vials out of this round. It's also no secret I adore Nui Cobalt's signature rose and honey notes and Ancient Apiary showcases those magnificently as the duo of realistic roses and honey hum some kind of enchanting lullaby to my senses. This is one of those breathe deep type of fragrances you anticipate finding that calms but at the same time activates the vivid romantic imagination. Gingerbread Sanctuary (The concept for this year's gingerbread house from a lovely friend and member of our Nui Cobalt Facebook Group. In her own words "...it's the sweetest confectionery structure, with a Black Lives Matter sign in the yar. It's a building where immigrants are safe regardless of their paperwork, and yes there's candy on the roof. The little gingerbread people inside really believe in justice and goodness, and they invite their friends of all colors, abilities, genders, ethnicities and religions to celebrate with them each year. And it's a riotous good time but also unbelievably cozy with the deepest, truest sweetness. I think need it this year" The spirit of loving kindness". Warm, soft gingerbread baked with Tupelo honey and toasted almonds, a pinch of precious saffron, draped in lavender-lemon icing.) I know this creation was immensely popular but sadly this one fades almost immediately, morphs unpleasantly on me and I'm left saying at my wrist "that's a shame". Gingerbread Sanctuary brings to mind Hogwash from the April Fools collection and I wasn't a fan of that scent either at the end of the night, unfortunately. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of notes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Excelsior (Stories of magic and mystery, of heroes and hope restored, of misfits and outcasts becoming the very light they quested for. The scent of radioactive spider venom, coconut metal, Earl Grey, hot and an origami unicorn drowned in starlight.) A very curious description that equals an equally curious fragrance, so it delivers as I smell a sweet lime and coconut medley bringing my mind into the realm of summertime and enjoying a freeze pop and waiting for a marathon of cartoons to start on a Saturday morning. I also get the unmistakable aroma of trading cards fresh from the packet, hot electric metal and such bright accompanying 90s colours and little me sitting there wishing I could fly and command attention like Rogue (I even played with accents when I was younger; thank you my Libra rising for that and to imitating what I heard, haha) or thinking I'm secretly controlling the incoming weather building outside the window like Storm (I know that's not Spiderman but I was more X-Men obsessed than that show). An interesting trip down memory lane and fragrance, a keeper for those days I want to reconnect with my inner child and let her out for one more imaginary or roleplay dress up session. *a swirl of a cape and dramatic trilling music plays me out* Libra (An elegant air of grace, civility and dynamic balance. Orange blossom, Easter lily, Pink Champagne, diamond musk, tonka, white lilac and cashmere. Wear to cultivate harmony, emotional intelligence and skillful diplomacy.) Speaking of my Libra rising placement we have the shimmery diaphanous mantle of florals and air with Nui Cobalt's Libra sweeping me away and feeling like a million bucks and sashaying down a runway surrounded by pink and silver lit clouds for added effect. It's an overall cultivating mood and blush-pink variation of my favourite Anthophilia with a hint of fruit from the champagne and soft orange blossom. Just lovely, calls for the best the wide world has to offer and well balanced as a Libra fragrance should be. Mnemophilia: The Love of Memory (Old chests filled with sepia photographs, a veil of chantilly lace, the brittle pages of a diary and the patina of relentless time. Stately gardenia, antique sandalwood, Florentine iris, pearl musk, jasmine absolute, neroli and liquidambar. Wear to connect with ancestral guides, to access genetic memory and to retrieve what's been forgotten.) Admittedly one of the best gardenia and jasmine fragrances it has been my pleasure to find in the indie realm with a soft butteriness of the gardenia leading the way with the intoxicating sweetness of the jasmine balancing out the creamy top note. It smells vintage without that sometimes overbearing loudness that can be found in perfumes from bygone eras. It's like gentle music playing as you untie ribbon bundled love letters that speak of hopes and dreams for a future, little mundane things mentioned become values you hold dear for the next bright day. An exquisite rendition of the beauty of memory and the lost generation. Let us remember and keep them close as Mnemophilia. Goth Club (It was the Darkness that was dancing; I just rode its wake. Fog machine, clove cigarettes, sweet patchouli, skin warmed leather, myrrh resin, Cabernet, scarlet musk and the well-worn wood of the dance floor) So full confession, I'm a late bloomer when it comes to showing others my darker aesthetic and esoteric interests. I was a closet-goth in school and even into my college years hiding stirring poetry and stories of Poe and Brontë from my peers' notice, different music than everyone was listening to in my oversized hooded coat, holding my tongue when I learned a morbid fact about history, myth or science and my little sketches of blood dripping roses intertwined with collected meaningful quotes and daggers in the back of my notebooks; no one knew or guessed my curiosities and tendencies ran deep and dark. It was an amusing though frustrating little secret of mine, I should have had more fun in my younger days and I regret not seeking out and finding a welcoming community or heading out to the underground clubs such as what Goth Club is styled after because this is intoxicating and calls out to my young self and all the welcome distractions I could have explored. On me, I get rich smoky clove, supple leather and heady wine and musk and I now know why I love its sister scent Exsanguinated so much. I fell hard for a particular seductive combination of notes and the visions they both conjure and the instant confidence boosts they offer. Between the two of them, Exsanguinated is still my boozy prowling choice but Goth Club is a definite keeper and I wish I could launch this scent in a time machine and send it back to myself with a message attached saying, "don't hide who you are; To thine own self be true". Taurus (A bouquet for stability, peace and the fulfilment of earthly desires. Baltic green amber, lush fern, pink peony, blush suede, Queen Elizabeth root and a foundation of rich mahogany. Wear for grounding, comfort and to be fully present in the moment.) No surprise a fragrance with the ruling planet of Venus as a starting base would be so elegant, gentle and conjures inner beauty to shine forth. Just as with Libra (also ruled by Venus) it smells luxurious with the perfect balance of florals and vintage elements. Taurus brings to mind the showstopper Nephophilia with the blush suede resembling the slightest wisp of cotton candy (done right, mind you; this isn't a childish scent in the slightest). Another favourite out of this round and instant recommendation. Hearthside (The scent of a cozy evening by the fire. Skin-warmed wool and woodsmoke, the aged pages of an old book and redwood oh-so-lightly accented with fresh cranberry. Wear this romantic blend to inspire connection, closeness and intimacy). Sadly this is another one of those "that's a shame" vials I was highly anticipating as I get an unpleasant dry down after such a promising opening of cranberry and woodsmoke with tea. I will be using Hearthside and Gingerbread Sanctuary in whipped soap treatments as my hair seems to tame the odd dry downs on these 2 perfumes. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note or combination of notes may not work for me, they may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Somniphilia: The Love of Sleep (Puffy white pillows that always stay cool. Lamb's wood accord, orange blossom, barely-budding lavender, melissa, green fig, clary, cloud musk and weightless vanilla marshmallow meringue. Wear at bedtime for restful and restorative sleep). Absolute sublime sorcery as Somniphilia indeed smells of the feeling of finding the sweet cool spot of the other side of the pillow and drifting off to that fuzzy twilight plane of sleep and going deeper to wake hours later with healed energy. Dare I say, Somniphilia has a greater effect on me than the ever-popular Tryptophan, I do believe it worked faster on my senses and relaxed me with the distinct marshmallow (I'll always fall for anything with marshmallow; it's one of my weaknesses) and gentle orange blossom and comforting lamb's wood that smells of a treasured knitted afghan tucked under your chin with a goodnight kiss and humming of "You are my sunshine" lulling your senses. Just lovely and a welcome addition to my night shift drawer of tried and true perfumes. Nui Cobalt Designs Thank you so much Obscura Hortus for sending me these press samples. Mr. Darcy (Tobacco, Tonka Bean, Smoked Honey, Dried Cherry, Vetiver and Cacao) Refined yet provincial and romantic. A broody opening with the rich tobacco, cherry and something reminding me of the soft musk of a horse and dust of travel lingering on the edges of a fine overcoat that all sweetens within several minutes to reveal a tender heart of honey, tea and the slightest hint of the remains of chocolate-covered cherries shared on a scenic riverbank. I immediately get the complex character of Mr. Darcy standing in the corner silently watching, his manner seems dejected but his magnetic presence draws you with in every passing moment as he pretends to not notice you are shyly darting your eyes his way (I always wondered if Darcy was a Capricorn Sun or Venus). A slow dance between you reveals many delights and more wonderful visions. Longevity is about 6 hours on the skin and is ideal to snuggle with as you drift off to sleep and dream fantasies. Old, Sport (A strong aftershave on a sharp dressed man, Leather, Cashmere, Clary Sage, Black Tea, Lavender, Almond, Amyris and Patchouli) Next stop is West Egg in the 1920s. You are invited to the hottest ticket in town and you are determined to locate the elusive host and find him with his back turned to you, the band plays, you catch a magnetic whiff of something debonair and mysterious. An explosion of fireworks and a flash of a smile and your heart delightfully stops for only a second. This is Gatsby! And Obscura Hortus captured his personality in a magnificent fashion channelling back to a bygone era dominated by class and individuality. On me, Old, Sport is boozy seductive leather, almond and lavender with something warm and almost electric which makes me think a glowing lamp this time dark red not green. This is romantic, passionate and sauve. A personality you want to meet around the corner, sweep you off your feet and only wish for a happy ending. Another dreamy fragrance to drift off to sleep with (I sleep best when I wear masculine fragrances; I can't explain it but I'm very thankful for it). Dammit Janet (Cotton Candy, Black Cherry, Valentine Candy hearts, raspberry, Tonka Bean and Creme) Full disclosure, I only watched Rocky Horror Picture Show once when I was probably 10 and I do remember the plot, the costumes and of course Tim Curry's performance but not much else, so this review is regarding the notes and experience versus the captured expression of the character on the vial. On me and for me, this is fragrance is 90s summertime and blasting all the pop hits that made up my pre-teen and teenage years while wearing Jelly shoes and having my Lisa Frank trapper keeper clasped to my chest. On opening, I get melted cherry blow pop mixed with a raspberry ring pop then a sticky cotton candy explosion that makes me think of the heydays of malls and the magic of the roller rink on summer weekends and innocent curiosity. It's playful and a nostalgic trip back to a simpler time and an evolutionary space for me. Now full honesty, even though this is one of my favourite kind of perfumes that takes me back to another era, the realistic cotton candy note amplifies on me the most (if you love cotton candy Dammit Janet is a must) and it can open a dark chained box in my brain (I won't go into specifics it's just kids can be so cruel and if only you could go back and hug and talk to your younger self). This perfume is a mixture of happiness and a challenge; thankfully age is taking care of some of pesky bad memories and I'm working through and Dammit Janet is one of those perfumes that is helping me confront my shadow self and do some inner child work. Highly recommend it if you are a child of the 80s and 90s and want to revisit some sweet nostalgia. Friends of Poe (Vetiver, Oak Moss, Black Licorice, Palo Santo, Patchouli, Ambrette, Bergamot, Rose, Oilbanum and Musk) A classic mixture of herbs and clean aftershave. It makes me think of a dashing professor during the 1930s and to be more specific you are sitting in on a lecture by the renowned Dr. Henry Walton "Indiana" Jones Jr. and he is regaling those with stories of his most recent explorations not in the Jungles but in the shadows of history and by the sea (there is a distinct salty note interlaced with the herbal and aftershave, like sea spray) to reclaim a mysterious artefact that was coded into the stories of Edgar Allan Poe (wouldn't that have made a spectacular movie, better than Crystal Skull ahem). This is another one of those fragrances that tells an evocative tale with every wave of the wrist and is fantastic for sleep. Obscura Hortus 🕸Thank you so much Josh and Forest from Nui Cobalt Designs for the chance to try these scent potions. Astral Plane (A blend for pathworking, dream walking, and weaving the liminal. Fresh white lilac, vintage orris powder, neroli, and tender green wood. Wear at bedtime for lucid dreams and prophetic visions). How do you make the spring florals bloom in your mind's eye and shake the ice from your heart in the dead of winter? Why dab on a scent potion that sweeps you away in imagination and lucid dreams, such as Astral Plane of course. It's all it promises and more with an opening of a bouquet of realistic dew-kissed lilacs with a gentle sweetness of neroli that dries down into a creamy powderiness which stays close to the skin and becomes another elegant "aura" or "outer glow" type of fragrance Nui Cobalt excels at. So pretty, romantic, calming and somehow familiar in all one wave of the wrist. Spectral Spidersilk (A chilling, phantasmic variation on our beloved Starlight & Spidersilk. Translucent strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, ivory suede, Queen Elizabeth root, and cathedral frankincense. Wear to honor the dearly departed and to invoke the loving support of your Ancestors). A haunting and sultry aura-like fragrance with a vintage vein that brings to mind a floor-length gown and swirling church incense in the cold moonlight. I normally avoid the idea of attending certain social events, but I would wear Spectral Spidersilk to a wedding reception in a heartbeat and become the mysterious stranger sitting in the candlelit corner who others can't stop speculating about and be the source of fanciful tales throughout the entire night. Venus (A sensual bouquet to nurture connection, empathy, poise, pleasure, equity, appreciation, glamor, allure, artistry, peace and harmony within the self as well as with others. The ivory petals of opulent heirloom roses, silken shea, honeyed almond, Bourbon vanilla, Queen Elizabeth root, and a scant trace of Bulgarian lavender.) This is how you self-pamper with roses that alter your confidence first with silken shea and lavender buds then to a deeper air of orris and honeyed almonds, ultimately creating powdery floral refinement with a blush of sweetness and soft allure. Venus is one of those talisman and your-skin-but-better perfumes, another nosegay of refinement upon my vanity table that calls for the best for myself and at the same time allows my mind to wander into the realm(s) of what could (and will) be. Black Cat (A traditional folk magic blend for fast luck and abundant blessing. Darkly sweet pipe tobacco, blackcurrant, and chai spices amid the swirling smoke of sacred nag champa and myrrh. Wear this dusky potion to invoke protection and great fortune). Black Cat holds a slightly smoky fruit laced incense combination with something akin to brewed spiced berry tea. It's lovely and indeed curious and magnetic as a black cat purring in the shadow draped corner of the room. Also like a black cat, it only stays so long before disappearing, when it comes to the perfume I can faintly detect it 4 hours after application. Cursed Jewels (Precious garnet cabochons enthroned in a golden necklace and enchanted to ward off would-be plunderers. Red plums, dragon's blood, pomegranate, black figs, sweet walnut, frankincense and myrrh, sparkling ginger and Moroccan musk. Wear for fierce protection against malefactors, fiends and ne'er-do-wells.) To me, Cursed Jewels and Blood Curse were fashioned in the same arcane lair in my head as both oils create an outer layer of protection with dark fruits sparkling and glowing at my throat and in my curls. Blood Curse is the pulsating collar or blood-red rubies while Cursed Jewels in the poisoned snoot of shadowed garnets in my hair. Both hold mystique and make me feel like some beautiful mage from different realms. For longevity and strength, Blood Curse edges out Cursed Jewels with the latter tapping out at only 6 hours versus Blood Curse's full 12-hour span. Pluto (An inscrutable accord for transformation, alchemy of the soul, unearthing hidden power, and touching the heart of the zeitgeist. Frozen stone, guaiac wood, opoponax, black soil, tangled roots, vetiver, patchouli, oudh and pomegranate.) As I dab on this oil before bed, I say "Goodbye, beautiful day. I go to join the Underworld and become a queen with a worthy king by my side". A bit dramatic yes, but Pluto embodies the dangerous masculine that your mother always warned you about. It's cold, dirty and seductive with a goblet of dark smoky wine with 6 to 7 pomegranate seeds (depending on which legend you have read) waiting to take you away. This time you have a choice, do you stay in the protective darkness or resurface to rejoin the daylight? I know my answer. Honeyed Figs (Rich and seductive, this scent inspires ease, confidence, and grace. Autumn-harvest honey awakens distinctive layers of fig, madagascar vanilla bean, and black walnut. Wear for relaxation, grounding, and comfort even under the most stressful circumstances. It supports the open expression of your absolute best qualities). Thick and chewy on opening with honeyed coated figs and crushed vanilla beans then it slowly morphs to rich honey-laced tobacco with vanilla walnut. On me, the honey and vanilla take the lead with the undernotes still very detectable. It's a gentle swaying dance of notes that is perfect for the colder months and anyone desiring to learn the delicious power of figs or tobacco. Moon (A luminous scent to support intuition, instinct, self-care, the soul, emotion, primal wisdom, the Unconscious, nurturing, and the fulfillment of essential needs. The phases of this moon begin with night-blooming jasmine reflected in rain, then gilded with melissa leaf, cotton flower, and coconut milk, finally settling into a soft silver musk entwined with white sandalwood.) Moon is all the clean floral glamor of Selenophilia married to the calming creaminess of Blue Moon on Samhain. I get the smokiness of the floral and herbs creating the impression of the phases of the moon with one sniff and then the pearly and unique flash of looking into a moonstone from Blue Moon on Samhain with another wave of the wrist. At the end of the night Moon shines on and enchants and I adore the lingering effect of the sandalwood on my senses and mood. Tango De La Muerte (A dead sexy scent for passionate encounters. Red rose, tart cherry, baking spices, mahogany wood, strong black tea and sultry skin musk. Wear to amplify your powers of attraction and to heat up your carnal adventures). A marvellous rarity and find for myself with roses, realistic cherry juice and tea. It somehow gets more radiant every time I dab it on and conjures such visions calling for a pair of racy fishnet stockings and a scandalous back story. I want to create a whole new life around Tango De La Muerte. I'm going to say it- Drop Dead Gorgeous! Rosewater Quince Compote (Elegant and refined, this scent showcases the blushing sweetness of quince slowly simmered in maple sugar and Persian rosewater. Wear to attract romantic attention from only the most worthy suitors, and shield you from those of ill intent.) The opening holds such promise with lovely quince fruit and expensive rosewater from the baking cupboard you only seek out for specific recipes then the sticky maple sugar latches onto my skin chemistry and doesn't calm down until the next day. Perhaps I would have better luck in my curls or in whipped soap? I know others have commented how beautiful this fragrance is on them and how it benefited them in some unexpected way. As for me, it's still a keeper I just need to work with it and only use it for special occasions. Full Moon (At the height of her power, the moon adorns each wisp of cloud in a luminous mist of diamonds. Wear this sacred scent to invoke mystery, magick, and intution. Notes of white tea, steamed jasmine rice, sugared lemon, and cool night air). Bright and luminous with a clean summertime flare. Perhaps a bit too fresh smelling for me but lovely overall when the opening notes burn off and the gentle white tea makes its appearance. Kiss of Death (A lascivious potion of black cherry, dark chocolate, Ceylon cinnamon, pomegranate, patchouli, wine-soaked fig, and feral musk. Wear to incite arousal and encourage intimacy). Without realizing it I picked out all the romantic and intimacy chaser types of fragrances to try out. While I don't have a fella to play scent doctor with right now and can't attest to these oils' provocative properties or effectiveness, it's nice to have these scent potions in my arsenal ready to go and light them up, haha! I can say I adore note medleys that shift from fruit tinged to an underpinning of something unexpected waiting underneath and Kiss of Death ticks those boxes. It may be listed as an autumnal perfume but this sweet, boozy and spiced fragrance makes me think of black crape draped heart-shaped candy boxes, it's the scent of a Vampire's Valentine and date night. Nui Cobalt Designs Thank you so much PULP Fragrance for the chance to indulge in all these body and bath self-pampering treats. *The following is a combined review between Press Samples and Purchased Orders. Moisture Mist A satiny smooth spritz with fabulous fragrance options. The Mist can be used on your skin or in your hair. In terms of a light hair detangler, the formula adds amazing shine and smoothness to my curls, I do have to take care not to get carried away as the scents are quite addictive however my hair can get overly saturated and get weighed down with one extra spritz (but I'm not mad, haha). The size of the bottle is wonderful as there is enough product for a dozen relaxing sessions of brushing out your manes (well over a dozen sessions for anyone not with waist-length hair). Finally, let's talk about the fragrances themselves... Scents- Drunken Jack (Oak barrels, spiced whiskey, pumpkin, and vanilla sugar.) A smoky boozy and delicious spiced aroma that happily screams autumn and makes you want to get on top of a table in a pumpkin patch and dance while lanterns swing above from haunted trees. It's a must for any fellow self-confessed pumpkin whore. For longevity, Drunken Jack lasts well over a day in my curls and about 10 hours on my skin with more boozy vanilla and hidden maple wafting about. It's no secret Drunken Jack was one of my favourites out of the bunch. Toasted Marshmallow (Sweet, gooey marshmallow with just a touch of caramel and woody smoke) After falling hard for Drunken Jack and the new Moisture Mists formula I immediately added Toasted Marshmallow to my basket in November when PULP reopened its doors. My chemistry loves to amplify caramel notes so, on me, Toasted Marshmallow is a softer but easily discernable butterscotch with fluffy melted marshmallow underneath. The mentioned smoke note is more noticeable on my skin but then fades quite quickly. Still, a delectable option and I love that this (and Drunken Jack) are layering notes and can be added to whatever my brain can conjure or crave that night. Dusting Powder One of my true guilty pleasures in life is dusting powders and happily rolling around like a chinchilla in a fragrant dust bath of gourmands and flowers. It's one of the ultimate self-pampering treats one can buy for oneself, so it shouldn't be a surprise I now own a pretty little row of canisters from PULP Fragrance. The formula is thicker than other shops where the dust will lightly clump but then easily breaks down and rubs right in with a gentle touch, I found a downy makeup puff is ideal for this type of formula and the scents hold amazing longevity and strength. Scents- Drunken Jack (Oak barrels, spiced whiskey, pumpkin, and vanilla sugar). Mmm, I'm tempted to take a bite of my arms and legs how scrumptious Drunken Jack smells on me. Throughout the day when my clothes rub against my skin I get wafts of Drunken Jack teasing me with its playful boozy aroma underneath the thick winter layers. And I love it all the more for that scent staying well into the next few days. Mark of the Moon (Golden Champaka, sweet spices, Peruvian Myrrh, White Copal, Patchouli and Tonka) One dip of the applicator wand and into the basket the dusting powder version of this beautiful esoteric floral went for purchase. This makes me think of a fire moon glowing in the night sky, the baking spices and warm resins marry so well with the creamy golden magnolia and tonka. I feel like I have some luminous aura surrounding me when I don Mark of the Moon. A gorgeous find and addition to my vanity table. Harvest Cakes (Cinnamon sugar crumble over moist yellow cake) Another mouthwatering scent potion that found its way into my basket after I tried the perfume sample. This indeed smells like a comforting spiced cake topped with a cinnamon crumble even leaning into a fair food classic. Another favourite of this round and I went back for seconds and thirds of Harvest Cakes in different formats. Room Spray in Harvest Cakes (Cinnamon sugar crumble over moist yellow cake) Admittedly this is too good to share and spray in a room for others, it's an indulgence I wrap myself in literally as I spray this one on my bedclothes and tuck myself in for the day in a cloud of cinnamon cake. The heavenly fragrance lasts about 2 to 3 days and I don't notice any staining on fabrics (but if you have silk as always use caution). Bath Salts For those of us who appreciate a long hot soak that allows us to drift away from the world, may I suggest adding PULP's aromatic bath salts to the relaxing gathering steam? These salts melt all cares and tension away and for anyone else who finds relief from musculoskeletal disorders or conditions, Epsom salts are a daily necessity. Depending on what scent profile you choose the fragrance could last from 10 minutes to several hours later on your skin or in your bathroom. The longer you soak the more you will notice the softness of your skin afterwards and this is another self-pampering delight I can't recommend enough. Scents- The Widow in White (Meyer Lemon, White Grapefruit, Orange Blossom, Sandalwood and Vanilla) Fruits spiked with natural pepperiness and a smooth vanilla twist. This blend is intoxicating lasts several hours on my skin and wafts from my tub. I'm very particular when it comes to citrus and The Widow in White is a lovely balance of tart and pepper and ideal for a bathtime scent. Harvest Cakes (Cinnamon sugar crumble over moist yellow cake) I wanted an enveloping experience like I do when I snuggle into my blankets sprayed with the Room Spray or coat myself in the dusting powder version of Harvest Cakes but sadly the bath salt format only lasts several minutes before disappearing versus The Widow in White. In the jar, it tempts a lick as the fragrance is so realistic and warms my black cold heart (I'll always have a soft spot for gourmands) but I think for the full delectable experience I'll stick with the Room Spray and Dusting Powder and just enjoy the skin-softening effects and balm for my RA with the Bath Salts. Diabolik (Black licorice, frankincense Papyrifera, lightly singed lemonwood, sweet benzoin & onyx musk.) Two words: Naughty Jellybeans. This scent potion smells like seductive candy with the slightest hint of a smoky edge. A unisex fragrance that draws the nose with a complex aromatic mixture of sweet, citrus bitter, herbal and hits a nostalgic spot with one wave of the wrist. Diabolik is listed under the Falloween collection but my mind goes to Eastertide/Ostara and a new fashion to celebrate the upcoming spring season with a whip and a bit of leather. If you have a weakness for licorice, Diabolik is a must-try. Hallowed Ground (Rich soil, damp air, slowly decaying wood, black honey, dark chocolate, soft moss and a thread of precious resin incense.) The sweet scent of temptation luring you away for a hundred years under an enchanted forest floor. The rich loamy earth notes pair perfectly with the realistic chocolate and honey creating a whimsical scent venture of heavenly fudge brownies with peanut butter icing to the nose and a vivid vision of devious fae setting the ultimate delicious trap. Mmm, I'd happily follow the cunning folk into the gloom a century or more for this offering. On me, this otherworldly delight lasts a full day on my skin and provides an oddly comforting fragrance to drift off to sleep with. Fortunes Favors (Apple peels, poached red Barlett pears, black cherry cider, vanilla caramels & smoked applewood musk) And what kind of spellbinding beverage would seal the fate of this curious traveller with the realm of the fae? Why a smoked cherry-pear cider delight of course and that's exactly what Fortunes Favors brings to mind. The trifecta of pressed apple, pear and rare cherry blends marvellously together taking me away to an autumnal celebration or ritual deep in the apple orchards of legendary Avalon. Surprisingly the listed caramels are subdued on my skin and cast a delicious underlay of buttery sweetness versus dominating over the realistic fruit notes. This one is a definite keeper and option for a future bath salt order at the end of summer. All Your Lovely Words (Dried ginger root, zesty elemi, chai spices, split cedar logs, Siberian iris bulbs, Peru balsam and radiant rosewood amber) And now we have arrived at the portion of the vials that remind me of stepping into scenic paintings or postcards. No particular classic existing canvas title comes to mind but these next two perfumes are so elegant and immersive. Our first look is at All Your Lovely Words which is a warm spiced citrus and woody fragrance with a gorgeous vintage amber at the base. Perhaps it was the novels I was reading at the time I was testing out these perfume oils but my brain conjured up a country house postcard setting with an elaborate script and warm Wintertide wishes. It's a classy aroma with comforting elements; fit for the lady of the country manor. Sonnet X (Black vanilla, white amber and a single snow drop pressed between the pages of an old album) Sonnet X is a lost painting from John Singer Sargent holding all the splendour, symbolism and grand beauty of a bygone era, imagine a draped lady in pearlescent white satin holding an open book with a delicate snow drop peeking out of the open pages. Was the little white flower a romantic token from a mysterious beau or a souvenir from some park promenade as the scent of captivating non-gourmand vanilla and sweet amber followed in her wake? Judging by the dreamy half-closed eyes and side smile the subject flashes at the viewer, she is not telling her secrets. Harvest Cakes (Cinnamon sugar crumble over moist yellow cake) This indie shop excels at atmospheric florals, powders, ambers and gourmands for me and I can tell no lie, Harvest Cakes is one my favourites I have tried from the catalogue. This olfactory delight holds the realistic scent of comforting spiced cake topped with cinnamon crumble even leaning into a classic fair funnel cake. I don't like to compare indie fragrances but Harvest Cakes toppled over NAVA's Koaliday for how realistic and true the aroma of spiced home-baked goodness stayed on my skin. I could happily drown in Harvest Cakes. This one is just aces and must try if you love gourmands or are a fellow cinnamon fiend! An Accidental Interloper (Green tea, clary sage, rose geranium, evergreen boughs, white patchouli, vetiver and sweet amber musk) An esoteric winter witch type of fragrance. A healer or wise woman deep in the snowy woods that you seek out for advice. She stirs a fragrant cup of green tea and reads runes for you while the cosy fire snaps and crackles breaking the silence. Tannic, earthy all with a sweet amber base. An Accidental Interloper is one of those intriguing blends you can't stop sniffing even hours later (longevity is about 15 hours on me). Ignis (Raspberries, fresh ginger, smokey aloeswood, pale blond tobacco leaves and fiery red musk) In the vial Ignis is a bit harsh, thankfully on the skin it morphs and blooms revealing powdered raspberries set on fire. It's one of those hypnotic fragrances that puzzles the nose as you smell ashes and red fruit then hours later are left with something a bit scandalous. I think I found another intriguing option for bath salts. This one speaks to my unpredictable fire moon. Mark of the Moon (Golden champaka, sweet spices, Peruvian myrrh, white copal, patchouli and tonka bean) Speaking of fire moon comes this beautiful esoteric floral that makes me feel like I'm surrounded by a luminous aura. The baking spices and warm resins marry so well with the creamy golden magnolia and tonka. Every format of Mark of the Moon is gorgeous and holds exceptional longevity. Et in Arcadia (Cardamom pods, walnut husks, warm oakwood, dragon's blood resin, smooth tobacco and aged patchouli) Spice, nuts, resins and everything nice! This one is for us spice fiends who need a meditative option. Mmm there is something almost fruit-like in this. I bet Et in Arcadia would be amazing in the tub or in my curls as the perfume version sadly fades within a few hours. For a visual, I keep thinking about a proud red cardinal in the swirling winter snows. Very relaxing, seasonal and vivid. The Phantom Room (Cherry tobacco, honeyed almonds, red currants, cocoa butter & vanilla balsam) Delectable and a bit naughty. Mmm take me away and smother me in rich delights! I get the stately cherry tobacco, the honeyed almonds with cocoa and a bough of pine hiding an illicit rendezvous between myself and the lord of the manor and a box of chocolates. The Phantom Room is you guessed it on the list for a bath salt and dusting powder option and this oil is fantastic to fall asleep with. Sweet racy visions await thee gentle dreamer! Women in Dresses Running Away from Houses (2021) (Caramelized sugar, a roaring bonfire, heliotrope, aged patchouli and a hint of violet). Annd Women in Dresses Running Away from Houses take two. I tried the classic Women in Dresses last year and it sadly wasn't a favourite, as my skin chemistry had a field day with some unexpected medicinal rubber aroma that my skin amped to the heavens and back. I couldn't explain how and what happened. This new variation thankfully is much kinder to my poor head and indeed smells lovely and haunting at the same time. The delicate sugared violets really elevate the scent storyline of this perfume and this one ended as an applauded encore. Toasted Marshmallow (Sweet, gooey marshmallow with just a touch of caramel and woody smoke) My chemistry loves to amplify caramel notes, so on me, Toasted Marshmallow is a softer but easily discernable butterscotch with fluffy melted marshmallow underneath. The smoke note is more noticeable on my skin versus in my hair but fades very quickly. As a layering option this one works nicely with softer florals and warmer perfumes. Hall of Mirrors (Pistachio gelato, buzzy neon, plastic Halloween masks, crushed hay, hot iron, cream soda spilled onto uneven floorboards and worn leather boots) Admittedly, this was one of the vials I was most excited to dive into and sadly the powdery plastic mask and some mysterious unlisted fruit note and expensive dryer sheets is all I can smell. Many others have commented how complex and fascinating Hall of Mirrors is on them and I wish I could be one of them. *Please remember what my skin chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the magic of indie perfume oils, you never know what note will work or not. Definitely give this vial a go if you are curious. Prototype #33 (no listed notes) I love the mystery of these types of vials and I must admit even years after smelling over a thousand different blends I'm still learning and honing my nose. Saying that I won't pretend I know what I'm exactly smelling with Prototype #33 but I will tell you where my fantastical little brain goes or more specifically who I think would wear this. Something screams bubblegum floral with a distinct playful but dangerous edge to me when I open the vial and when on the skin I get an image emerging of a costume of black, red and white. This character is a bit dangerous with a mallet or baseball bat, loves to get inside other characters' heads, plays by her own rules and is a fellow Cancer sun, give up who? This is Harley Quinn or something she would wear. There is something chaotic (smokey/ashy) but pretty and magnetic in Prototype #33. I eagerly look forward to finding out the notes. PULP Fragrance One Note At A Time: Cue the creepy piano music because it's GoOsEbUmPs/Halloween 2021 Sixteen924/2/2022
Sweet nostalgia is like the ultimate treat for us Cancer Suns so when I saw Sixteen92's first teaser for this collection I knew it would be coming home and I would be digging out an old loved friend (and even found a BookIt certificate I was using as a bookmark; I wonder if I can still cash it in?). Yes, I know I'm showing my age but there is something about this time of the year and the way indie artists capture a little lost part of yourself that you are dying to reconnect with that gets me every time. So without further ado, it's GoOsEbUmPsss.... Monster Blood (Plastic Candy Pails, Damp Concrete, Licorice Whips, Mounds of Sticky Marshmallow, Smouldering Firewood) Can we first appreciate the dead-on artwork for the notecard for this collection and the clever listed notes that promises one unique story with a twist of seasonal whimsy? Still years after stepping into the indie realm I continue to be blown away as indie perfumers are able to bottle this beautiful element and the very reaches of the imagination. Saying that I shouldn't be shocked how accurate the '80s-'90s candy pail scent is right down to the powdery plastic but I sure am and get instant goosebumps (HA!). That nostalgic aroma melds so well with the rained over concrete, liquorice and Sixteen92's infamous marshmallow accord. In a way, Monster Blood reminds me of The Sisters: Mary and could be a sibling scent with both having a hidden sandalwood heart surrounded by Halloween candy, Monster Blood seems however to be more of an atmospheric versus a homage to a playful but sinister personality. I can easily envision a simpler time filled with colourful Lisa Frank stickers, erasers shaped like foodstuffs and little me skipping down to the scholastic book fair with a pumpkin pail swinging on my arm ready to spend a whopping $10 and feeling like I am on top of the world and life couldn't get any better or more fragrant. One Day At Horrorland (Dark Bromine Water, Clattering Wooden Boats, Misty Dry Ice, Mossy Rocks, Muffled Din from the Midway, A Distant Screeeeeam) Oh, the mid-90's so many regretful events and haunting images occurred like a Dracula Jeff Goldblum in a video game...yes that happened and you are welcome if you go look it up or relive it in all its marvellous awkwardness. When comparing which version of Horrorland One Day At Horrorland lands me in, it's the zany and at times cringey video game (Goosebumps: Escape from Horrorland) as this is a realistic underwater cave with bouncing wooden coffin boats and a menacing though dashing vampire after you (don't look at me that way it was another time and those of us in the Pluto in Scorpio generation were already swooning over Louis from Interview with a Vampire; it was the start of the end, haha). If you missed those confusing years, you may recognize the distinct cold bromine water and dry ice effect from different rides at Disney World or Universal Studios. It's pretty impressive and great for sleep and even l layering with different oils for an added entertaining surprise. Welcome to Camp Nightmare (Campfire S'mores, Overgrown Brambles, Cold Autumn Air, Toasted Pumpkin, Earthy Musks) Mmhm so I don't know if it's the brambles or earthy musks but Welcome to Camp Nightmare takes me to a not so child-friendly place as I can't but think of a storyline of someone sneaking off with a summer crush after enjoying sticky smores and having a bit of fun unawares a masked killer is watching from behind the thick pine branches and swirling campfire smoke. There is something masculine and scandalous in this oil I certainly wasn't expecting and I think we have crossed into the Fear Street series versus Goosebumps with Welcome to Camp Nightmare, haha. Sixteen92 Leave it to Sixteen92 to take us on an otherworldly scent journey across the haunting nightmares from stories and eras of the past that still inspire and cause some rapid prayer motions when mentioned in hushed whispers. Banshee (Frozen Honeycomb, Wispy Fog, Sheer Linen, Spectral Violet, Moonflower, Shattered Glass) The eerie fragrance of a moonlit gauzy torn shroud with a hundred night-blooming florals and final offerings lingering in the folds billowing in the cold autumn winds. Be it fae or malevolent spirit screeching out the end of a mortal's life. Banshee is lovely and sings its own tale. I'm happy my curiosity won out and I grabbed this beauty. The violets resemble those from my beloved Mina Harker and I Believe in Mary Worth and the cold honey with a hint of something unsettling brings to mind Telepathy and Ligeia whilst the realistic linen is a stellar combination of convincing textile accords of The Romance of Certain Old Clothes and Mein Herr Marquis. With all of these threads, Banshee is by the end of the night a complex tapestry of several past blends that creates one hauntingly beautiful perfume that you need not fear. Onryō (Dry Cedar Heartwood, Warm Sandalwood, Plum Wine, White Birch, Pale Vanilla, Delicate Pine Needle, Grey Ash) Familiar yet exotic. This blend opens with an offering of rich plum wine sprinkled with fallen dead pine needles from the surrounding dark forest that slowly reveals its warm woody heart of a trio of snapped pine branches, birch and cedar. The creamy sandalwood with non-gourmand vanilla and realistic papery ash provides the ending to this unsettling ode to a vengeful spirit and curious cold smelling atmospheric. Onryō is a must if you love the seductive qualities of plum wine and sandalwood or desire an early winter fragrance with a chilling secret waiting to be told. Revenant (Autumnal Apples, Saffron Crocus, Crisp Golden Leaves, Unripe Pumpkin, Dusty Hay Bales, Honey Bourbon) Just as the ever-popular fakeout scene in horror films where the hapless victim encounters a figure that is turned away from them that appears to be in distress and they slowly reach out to help (or curiosity gets the best of them) to only realize it's too late for any escape, you would be forgiven and may even let your guard down when thinking the listed notes of Revenant to only hold an unsuspecting harmless gourmand. It's however so much more when it turns around and reveals a seductive streak with a bite! On opening, the mashed apples verging on decaying are dominant with a splash of smokey bourbon, hint of woody cinnamon and dusty hay. Revenant is so sweet but deceiving and as the notes morph on the drydown more earthy elements and a distinct magnetic masculine quality comes forward that brings to mind a scene of a rendezvous at midnight in a foggy apple orchard with your now undead zombie beau, you can't help but lean in closer as he only wants a comforting cuddle and maybe one more nibble. Strigoi (Freshly Exhumed Funerary Boxes, A Circle of Salt, Cold Iron Stake, Heavy Stone, Stinging Rain, Blood, Fire) Speaking of a seductive fragrance with a bite we have the brother blend to Lycanthrope and where the latter is a sojourn into an ancient forest with protective eyes watching your every step as you brush by towering trees and moss-covered boulders during a powerful lightning storm, Strigoi patiently waits and is after much more and has such sinister plans in-store as you leave the guarded forest and enter the point of no return. On me, the salt and iron and realistic petrichor dominant with a wisp of ashed smoke after the initial opening of cedar and pine wood gives way to what lays underneath. As you can expect from a perfume inspired by the ultimate legend draped in dark mystique and forbidden allure, Strigoi conjures such visions to appear and steals the ever innocent heart and takes you away in imagination or to vivid dreams. Wraith (Luminous Amber, Divinatory Tea Leaves, Candle Wax, Pomegranate, Black Myrrh, Howling Wind, Otherworldly Musks) To finish up this scented tour of the undead of the world and times is a surprise favourite out of the collection. Tea is such a finicky note with my skin chemistry and when I find a success, it's an immediate recommendation and ramble in store. Wraith ticks all the boxes and with the addition of a rarely ever seen pomegranate note that adds a delicate tartness and sweetness to the surrounding notes of photorealistic candle smoke and an impression of cold winds, it ends as a lovely homage to the semblance of the former plane. Out of all perfumes in this collection Wraith is the most wearable in the professional setting, not having such a noticeable throw as Banshee or Onryo; staying close creating the perfect ghostly aura. Sixteen92 BeeWitched (A Dirty sexy honeyed rose) *pheromone infused Magickal Meaning of Notes: Rose- Self confidence, strong aphrodisiac properties, attracts affection & love, fertility, divination/clairvoyance. Amber- Fertility, creativity, love, luck, riches. Honey & Bee Pollen- Enticing, seductive; use to bewitch a straying or hesitant lover. Happiness, fulfilment. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness and riches. Lust inducing, wishes granted. Musk- Self-confidence and strength, sexual attachment, heightens passions and arousal This scent potion starts out so innocent and soft with a lovely fruit-laced crystallized rose that stays close to the skin then it transforms with the rising heat of your body in an hours time to an empowering (and hungry) siren-like entity (complete with a mysterious aquatic element) that lays claim to all who catch a single wisp. This fragrant beacon of beauty is NOT safe for the mundane work setting despite what you think you discern in the vial, it calls for a night of romance, passion and something put in the lines of Pre-Raphaelite poetry and canvas! BeeWitched is the perfect name for this perfume! *Full disclosure this fragrance was a custom request that I was planning to wear to the Ren Festival (the listed notes harken back to researched love philtres used in that era) last October but sadly it wasn't ready in time so I didn't get to test it out on a larger audience but I did wear it to work (accidentally once... okay three times, haha) and notice a buzz of attention and looks every time, haha. It has the effect I was definitely looking for and highly recommend for a confidence boost. Creme Cake (Sweet cream-filled oatmeal cookies) *NOTE infused with pheromones Magickal Meaning of Notes: Oats- Prosperity, abundance, sustenance, money spells. Milk/Butter/Cream- Nurturing, soothing, eases troubled relationships. Goddess energy. Coconut Cream- Chastity, protection, purification, receptivity. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness and riches. Lust inducing, wishes granted. Cinnamon and Cassia Bark- Male sexual stimulation, passion, lust, healing, protection, energy, creativity, psychic powers. Used in ancient mummification rituals. Amber- Fertility, creativity, love, luck, riches. *plays record of "Be My Baby" by The Ronettes* A comforting warm hug of nostalgia wrapped in fluffy sweet cream and finished with vintage powdery amber. The opening of an iconic soft cookie recipe of a Little Debbie's dessert is captured perfectly with the notes of brown sugar, oats and a swirl of cinnamon, tempting those gathered around with a slight amplified effect and throw. Several minutes later the signature cream with a kiss of toasted coconut we remember waiting in our lunch boxes, reveals another delicious facet on the skin and in my curls before finally turning over to gentle amber that sees me out the door after 12 hours. Creme Cake has all the right playful ingredients equaling a perfect perfume to create smiles and treasured future memories. Infusion 2021 (A redder-than-red blend of black raspberry, creme de cassis, cherrywood and pomegranate, with a base of vanilla and three varieties of musk, including smokey Indian red musk attar) *NOT infused with pheromones Magickal Meaning of Notes: Raspberry- Love inducing, aids in pregnancy discomforts, protection. Stamina, vigor. Black Currant- Aids success in love affairs, and a magical representation of blood. Cherry Wood- Love and lust spells, divination, connection to the land of the departed. Pomegranate- Divination, luck, wishes granted, wealth, fertility. Musk- Self confidence and strength, sexual attraction, heightens passions and arousal. Vanilla- Aphrodisiac, inspires happiness, playfulness, sexual arousal, lust, vitalizing. Another morpher and clever deceiver. When first applied "candy vampire" springs to mind with the sweetened raspberry and tart pomegranate then as your body heat rises and entangles with Infusion, something unexplained happens and it completely transforms to something dark and wonderfully mysterious. A must try if you love the power of red musks. Love Potion® Magickal Perfumerie I was surprised by a message on social media offering me a chance to try this posh house of fragrance and am so thankful they reached out and contacted my little shadowy corner. Here's another Indie shop to recommend especially if you are seeking something unexpected, transportive but yet familiar all in the same wave of the wrist! (Thank you again so much, Aether Arts Perfume) Longevity varies between 4 hours (Chrysalis) to 12+ hours (Saffron) Mayan Chocolate (Chiles and Spice Accord, Green Jungle and Orchid Accord, Rich Chocolate, Exotic Woods and Incense Accord) An exotic fragrance journey back through time to experience the raw untouched cacao plant and its natural ceremonial purpose. Fiery lush greenness of chiles and ground spices opens the scene and if you close your eyes the impressive realistic humid air accord intermingled with fruit-laced florals (carrying hints of vanilla and orange blossom upon their curious petals) takes you deeper into this fascinating world that you can't wait to explore further. The lovely promised cacao is bitter and earthy presented on a gold tray and surrounded by wisps of ceremonial incense that lasts hours after application, weaving a scent story to recommend. Saffron (Pink Peppercorn, Turmeric, Saffron, Peach Accord, Cananga and Jasmine Absolute, Vanilla, Hazelnut, Vintage Amber Accord, Tobacco and Suede) Picture this, you're back in childhood and are at a family gathering, dancing around the humphing adults that just find you in the way or blocking the wine table when you get the glimpse of a huge familiar dark purple plumed hat bobbing in the window peeking behind a stack of wrapped gifts; it's Auntie! She's a bit eccentric, but sweet and elegant and is the only relative that isn't afraid to get down on the floor and play for the hundredth time whatever game your little brain can create whilst you dig in her huge vintage leather purse for hidden delicious treats from her travels. Later as you curl up and snuggle into the soft ends of her long cashmere scarf you inhale the powdery creamy vanilla finish of her curious perfume and her latest story of far off places, trivia and events, you can't help but think- is she a secret time traveller? Auntie will never say and only gives you a wink as if she can read your mind. That's what this gentle nutty floral-mand reminds me of and how I hope my nephew will someday remember me. Saffron is full of personality and an unexpected cosy element, what a unique perfume. Burner Perfumes No. 10: Chrysalis (Vanuatu Pepper, Green Coffee, Tomato Leaf, Rhubarb, Green Apple and Melon Aldehydes, Violet, Green Clover and Crystalline Musk). Chrysalis is a beautiful example of exceptions for me as the list of notes scream "beware!" to my brain with the listed rhubarb and aldehydes mentioned as my skin chemistry usually anchors to those fragrances and amplifies them to the heavens and back drowning out any underlying accords but my nose delves in curiosity and inhales pure late summertime bliss with this perfume as it's so magical and airy with a green powdery fruitiness that indeed somehow reminds me of the chrysalis of a monarch butterfly with tones of jade green, gold shimmer and the powder of a butterfly's drying wings. This is one of those perfumes that is nearly impossible to fully dissect, you think you pinned a note down then second guess what you are truly smelling another moment then ultimately give up and just enjoy the splendour of the experience, akin to trying to capture a fluttering monarch. It is said seeing a monarch butterfly is a sign from a loved one who has passed into the other realm and Chrysalis is a beautiful tribute to transformation and gentle messages, it's ethereal and calming. Dia De Muertos (Marigold Absolute, Mimosa Absolute, Jasmine Absolute, Carnations, Guavas, Beeswax Tapers, Earth and Moss) Another transportive medley with smokey florals and exotic tart and sweet fruit leading the way. I curiously own several 'Day of the Dead' scents now and Aether Arts' offering brings my mind to late summertime nights with just the ghostly coolness of autumn on the breeze. It's a lovely fruity laced perfume with an underpinning of realistic beeswax that is one of the longest-lasting of the vials going on to entrance the senses for 6 to 8 hours. It's a must-try if you love realistic floral petals and mouth-watering inducing fruit. Burner Perfume No. 4 John Frum (Fresh Lime and Coconut Water, Mischief Flower, Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Exotic Woods, Vetiver and Vanuatu Pepper) This shop has a certain flair with conjuring visions of distant locales and times with unique fruits but sadly my nose and head didn't enjoy this layover to a tropical escape. I think it's the pepper that overbalances everything and perhaps the ylang ylang that is turning to soap. This was the only vial that was not for me. *Please remember skin chemistries differ and what one note may not work for me may be exactly what someone else is looking for. That's the beauty of perfume oils and the continued mystery that keeps drawing us back for more. Never be afraid to try a blend that interests you. Love for 3 Oranges (3 types of oranges- Flower, Fruit and Tree, Orange Blossoms and Musk) A creamy nostalgic opening as Love for 3 Oranges immediately brings to mind an Orange Creamsicle on a hot summer day. It's creamy and refreshing with an even balance of sweetness and fruit. The musk underneath lends an adult delicious twist at the end elevating this creation from something entirely playful to sophisticated but still joyful. This citrus perfume also lasted beyond 6 hours on my skin which is quite something in my book. I can see how this and several other perfumes by Aether Arts either won fragrance awards or were finalists. Impressive scent artistry and I have my basket full of further explorations (Black Hole, Charybdis, Gunsmoke & Roses, Circe and few others are all calling!) Aether Arts Perfume Bongo Poppy Cake (Delicious, lemon poppy seed cake, drowned in an unhealthy dose of lightly spiced cream cheese icing dripping all over it) Akin to cutting out a thick slice of moist lemon cake with a spread of cream cheese icing and taking that first heavenly sniff before devouring all in sight. The lemon is perfectly balanced with the vanilla cake (with a hint of cardamom and additional grated spice) and I get about 5 hours of waltzing about with uninterrupted baking divinity before it fades to a faint lemon peel with sweet cream cheese and a hidden marshmallow scent. I also own Bongo Poppy Cake in the hair detangler and I notice very little in scent difference, they both smell luscious although the hair detangler lasts a full day on me and I enjoy imagining I am swanning about with a tower of lemon cake balanced in my curled bouffant for the night. Lemon Curd and Coconut Cream (Lemon curd and coconut cream with graham crust) Being a recent convert to the taste of toasted coconut in both culinary and fragrance forms, I must say, I completely understand the myriad of positive reviews on this perfume and I want to gnaw my wrists, haha. This is the real deal of realistic dessert fragrances and out of all the oils I show off at work, Lemon Curd and Coconut Cream is a standout winner every time as I watch with amusement as coworkers with twirling eyes desperately seek out a Tupperware Container of lemon and coconut cream piet throughout the night and ask "Who brought in dessert and is hiding it?" every time they walk past my desk after midnight, haha. Each note is perfectly balanced and hits the nose creating the ultimate compliment of making me want to bake up a storm on a sunny spring morning with a newfound ingredient. For longevity, this goes on to baffle and tantalize the hungry masses for 15 hours with a huge throw reaching across several depts. Peches Melba (Juicy ripe peaches with a teeny squeeze of lemon, and fresh raspberry topped vanilla bean ice cream) One of my favourite novels mentions a Peche Melba dessert and this perfume captures that scene beautifully with exquisite realistic cold peaches, sweet raspberries and an addictive vanilla bean ice cream base served in an crystal dish or rather with every wave of the wrist. It's a special immersive experience that I can enjoy anytime and think of beloved characters with dainty spoon poised to indulge in such a lovely ritzy choice from the menu. Perfect for spring weather and day dreaming. Lilac and Hyacinths (Scent Description: Bloom open your day with this beautiful & fresh scent of Lilacs and Hyacinths) Exactly as it says on the tin, it's like covering yourself in a lavish spread of lilac and hyacinth blooms! The scent is heavier in the perfume and somehow delicate in the dusting powder form but very noticeable and gorgeous. Still one of my top picks for a fresh from the garden lilac and hyacinth marriage in a bottle. I hope it returns this year so I can stock up on well everything I can in this heavenly fragrance. Longevity varies with a heavy workout it fades at 6 hours and if I am just swanning about 10 hours. Free Sample: Lychee Grapefruit and Rose (the complete notes still remain an elusive mystery even a year later) To me, this perfume presents as a stunning seductive enigma to the nose and the senses with an opening of tart sparkling summertime fruits that quickly transitions to a jammy rose nectar with an accompaniment of "dirty" hidden tuberose and a dry down of sandalwood, amber, oud and a drop of honey. It's an olfactory masterpiece that surprises and delights you every time it is worn and allows the wearer to unleash their inner prowl and Summertime Lilith. Lychee Grapefruit and Rose makes me want to dramatically flop back on a leopard print devan wearing nothing but a smile and huff my wrists and curls while being painted. It's THAT type of perfume. This is how I remember the summer of 2021. Brava! *As soon as the full sized was available I purchased a full bottle. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean/Mooscents Nui Cobalt Designs *Reviews composed in 2021 That snappy Gemini season energy finally kicked in for me today (and my nose is finally healed albeit a bit crooked but functioning after a nasty fall- gotta love the natural grace of a Cancer, haha) and I bring to you long-overdue ramblings from one of my favourite houses of fragrance (Many thanks to Josh and Forest at Nui Cobalt Designs for allowing me to sample and be reunited with the following fragrances). Without further ado... Kazzate: Tiramisu (The beloved Italian classic: golden vanilla lady-fingers infused with espresso and Marsala wine, then layered with sweet mascarpone, and finished with a fine dusting of cocoa. Wear when you need to slow down and restore calm. It’s a uniquely grounding and stabilizing blend.) A textbook rendering of a classic decadent dessert magically smooshed into a vial. One wave of the applicator wand and then huff of the wrist and you immediately recognize the iconic dessert with layers of espresso drenched buttery lady-fingers (along with a hint of booziness of wine; this is an adult indulgence after all), sweet whipped cream mixed with mascarpone and a dusting of cocoa powder for that familiar bitter chocolate finish of a picture-perfect Tiramisu! There is also a drop of Nui's superb honey hiding in the espresso dipped syrup lady-fingers and the dry down reminds me of my beloved Malarkey from last year's lineup with the egg whipped cream. Mmm, one dab and you are in heaven with Kazzate and on me, this perfume lasts well into the next day bringing my nose to my wrist for one more huff and rumble of my stomach throughout the night. Pish-Tosh: Passionfruit Custard Tart (A bright, tropical tang complements smooth vanilla custard cradled in classical shortbread crust. Wear for protection against interpersonal drama and discord. It instantly conjures a sunnier disposition and enchants any room with the spirit of levity.) As it says on the tin, a bright tropical fruit evenly balanced vanilla dessert with a non-soggy bottomed shortbread crust fragrance. Passionfruit and the word Pish-Tosh are such underused stars of ingredients in perfumery and everyday vocabulary, Nui Cobalt is here to correct that! On me, there is another fruit possibly apricot mixed with the beautiful tartness of the passionfruit, plum and vanilla adding just a bit of more grounding element and again I smell a drop of Nui Cobalt's trademark spring honey at the base with the buttery shortbread. Just superb! For longevity, Pish-Tosh (I love saying that) goes on to enchant and brighten my mood for a full 8 to 10 hours and fades down to crumbly shortbread biscuit finish with a hint of lemon zest like in Hogwash from last years menu. Napping in a Flower (As they go about their days, bees are sometimes known to fall asleep inside the blossoms from which they take their nectar. Few things are cuter than a fuzzy little bee booty poking out of the petals with their tiny snoring snoots full of pollen. Tender ripe apricot, Bulgarian lavender, spiced summer honey, plum blossom, daylily, honeysuckle, and ylang. Wear this relaxing scent to unwind and decompress. It’s particularly supportive of deep and rejuvenating sleep.) One of the most endearing names and descriptions of a perfume this fragrance showcases all of Nui Cobalt's strengths from the realistic dreamy lavender in the vial that translates the same on the skin to the gorgeous florals and fruits to the vanilla sweetness of the ylang and of course the legendary honey that is kissed with a dusting of spice. It's surprisingly uplifting and but yet morphs somehow to a pleasant sleep promised scent potion that calls for one more huff as drift off. Like the brightness of sunshine on flowers and pollen before the blessed lull of dreams claims you. Aptly named. Preposterous! Strawberry Shortcake (Sun-ripened strawberries are sliced fresh over soft vanilla cake and topped with a scant teaspoon of whipped cream. Wear to dispel stress and anxiety. It serves to ease the mind and soothe the spirit.) There is always that one dessert or perfume which everyone else around adores but unfortunately doesn't work with your palate or nose for whatever reason and sadly Preposterous! was that one blend for me. I need to finally admit to myself that even though this perfume is phenomenal in the vial capturing the unmistakable aroma of freshly sliced homegrown strawberries (complete with pips!) dipped in cream on my skin this oil oddly morphs to strawberry hair conditioner with vanilla cake and amplifies with intensity for far too long. This one isn't for me and I envy all those who had the same experience in the vial to their skin. Oh well, I still plan to use every last drop in a whipped soap deep hair treatment this summer. *Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what one note does on my skin will not happen on someone else or vice versa. That's the magic of perfume oils. If a blend intrigues you, try it. You never know what you will love unless you sample the unknown. Nephophilia 2.0 : Love of Clouds (The love of clouds.A fluffy melange of pink cotton candy, ivory cashmere, silk tree blossoms, blush suede, and steamed vanilla. Wear this playful scent to turn heads and lift spirits.) It started with a kiss of coconut from Nui Cobalt then banana and now cotton candy; there is no going back nor do I want to. This house of fragrance can make me fall in love with every note I thought I despised and should avoid like the plague. Here we have the epitome of sweet elegance and romance, it indeed smells of what you could only imagine the inside of a cloud lit by the dying rays of the sun would surround you in fragrance wise. The cotton candy is the star of this oil but it is transformed into a crystalline vanilla with a lick of creamy seductive suede that is a million miles from anything resembling a pre-teen noxious fug. This is how you do cotton candy scents and elevate it to the troposphere! For those familiar with Nui Cobalt's masterpiece Starlight & Spidersilk as well as the Hollywood Royalty quality in Ailurophilia, meet their love child. Continuing thoughts: I was fortunate enough to purchase the original variation of Nephophilia and then was kindly sent the second on request for this review and I must say I only notice the slightest difference between the two. Both are stunning, however personally I love the steamed vanilla background aroma in Nephophilia 1.0 that wafts over my senses and takes to my skin chemistry. I still adore both and hope Nephophilia becomes a permanent catalogue option. Everyone needs to try this beauty especially if you think you can never love a cotton candy scent! Chionophilia: Love of Snow (The love of snow.A cool blend of cotton flower, marzipan, Nui’s inscrutable Cold accord, coconut flakes, frosted fir, whipped white honey, and copal. Wear for comfort, joy, and to nurture loving connection.) Other noses have commented that Chionophilia is a sister scent to the smash blend known to those in the indie realm as Snow Cat and even Mauna Kea or Arctic Fox and from the applicator wand I must agree with those comments, however, on my skin Chionophilia morphs after a few moments on my skin to an amplified soapy venture I wasn't expecting and I believe the culprit of that transformation is the copal swirling with the cotton flower. Sadly this isn't a love for me and I'll keep my workplace gems Snow Cat and Mauna Kea and find another scented use for Chinophilia. *Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what one note does on my skin will not happen on someone else or vice versa. That's the magic of perfume oils. If a blend intrigues you, try it. You never know what you will love unless you sample the unknown. Arch Nemesis (The formidable foe, reflection of the Shadow Self. A fiery blend of bayberry bark, clove bud, pipe tobacco, ginger root, coriander, pinyon pine, and tart cherry wine. Wear to invoke your primal force and ferocity.) This is a swirling black and red slashed cape with a pine sigil embossed on the breast of a villain of the north exiting a burning dining hall whilst dramatic music pounds in the background. This is the scent of one of the betrayers at the iconic Red Wedding scene from A Song of Ice and Fire and I absolutely adore this perfume. It's charged and is indeed has a primal element to it. There is also a magnetic seductive quality to Arch Nemesis which only makes sense if you stop to think- everyone secretly loves and falls for a villain in the end. Cobalt Druid: Uncrossing (Banish the bad vibes with this time-honored Conjure blend for cleansing and purification. Blue vervain, white sage, and pungent bay leaves are woven into a delicate bouquet of young lavender and fresh, dewy rose.) On application I'm greeted by a vase of green stemmed roses in a vase somehow thriving in sparkling seawater then a dreamy lavender emerges along with sage and bay leaves. It's a beautiful mystical blend that I can't stop huffing. In many ways, Uncrossing reminds me of another of my top favourites from Nui Cobalt called Anthophilia and even my personal custom fragrance made by Forest. I get the same realistic nectar of roses, freshly snipped stems, and aquatic elements from a crystal vase. Uncrossing is more mysterious than those mentioned other scent potions and somehow calls out to all my water placements in my chart at the same time. Cobalt Druid: Seduction (A boldly sensual blend for enticement and attraction. Opulent flowers, piquant cloves, warm scarlet musk and hoodoo roots tangled in a potion of simmering vanilla.) This one is for all those who fell under the spell of Sultry, sadly I only liked Sultry and have the same reaction to this sibling fragrance. Very exotic, powerful and I respect the magic behind this oil but I don't think I could wear this outside the house and prefer Charisma Bonus, Love or Seduced by Spidersilk to get the same effect for myself and attention with the alluring vanilla, musk, and floral aspects. Cobalt Druid: Peace (A gentle blend to instill a sense of calm and tranquility. Bulgarian lavender and honey are tucked into a soft bed of cooling clary sage and meditative sandalwood.) This a lulling sweet lullaby of a fragrance that works wonders whether day or night. I'm always in awe of the mysterious properties of Nui Cobalt's scent potion oils, and Peace is another choice pick for that category. The honey is lovely alongside the realistic lavender buds and I can't recommend enough this shop's creamy sandalwood accord that always elevates every blend it touches. I could bathe in Peace and happily drift far away. Athena Drakaina: The She-Dragon (The She-Dragon.An ebon altar swathed in sacred smoke, dragon’s blood resin, spiced pomegranate, black leather accord, bay laurel leaves, hibiscus flower, nocturnal musk, and agarwood. Wear to invoke Her sacred ferocity and mete out swift justice.) This shop does some amazing things with underappreciated notes and here pomegranate is cast as the main lead and shows off beautifully with the hibiscus and naughty leather. Although named for the goddess of wisdom who has many sides, I can't help but think of Persephone in dark battle armor back from the underworld when I smell this oil, it's an incredible balance of duality of sweetness and darkness. A reminder to never underestimate anyone. Cobalt Druid: Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) A Pre-Raphaelite painting in a bottle. Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with soft vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. Just magnificent! Brava! Malarkey: Bread & Butter Pudding (A comforting scent to ease your mind and sooth your nerves after dealing with dishonest people. Twice-baked slices of soft white bread, salted butter, rich vanilla custard with a modest sprinkle of nutmeg and cinnamon.) When Malarkey melds with my chemistry it morphs to spiced bread pudding with realistic thick vanilla custard and the distinct aroma of freshly prepared french toast but the vanilla custard and light cinnamon stand out the most. Hours later and I get a creamy crumbly nutmeg and a richer vanilla base (and I swear a drop of warm honey). It's something else and a tribute to British culinary traditions and old-fashioned baking secrets. Malarkey is never sharp, overly sweet or spicy, waxy or artificial smelling and just like Poppycock, it's perfectly executed. I always try to envision what the food from one my all-time favourite cinematic treasures would smell like and Malarkey is what I would be drinking if I were invited to attend the lost boys' dinner from HOOK. It's straight out of my dreams as this is happy thoughts and warm hugs. [says with nose to wrist] It's Bangarang. Nui Cobalt Designs Marshmallow (Marshmallow) Exactly as it says on the tin, this is comforting sugary pillows that morph to a realistic toasted finish; excellent for sleep and layering with other oils. Longevity is about 4 to 6 hours with a noticeable throw that catches the attention of those with a discerning sweet tooth. Daffodil (This fragrance accord is designed to smell of Daffodils- reminiscent of jasmine, geranium, and honeysuckle with hints of vanilla and greenery) Close your eyes and picture the perfect spring morning. The robins and starlings are merrily chirping and chortling whilst the rhythmic coos of mourning doves completes a dawn symphony. You can feel the warm sunshine touch your cheeks and the light creates an enveloping impression of bright golds. You are facing a garden of memories and the distinct aroma of little star-shaped jasmine beckon you to come closer and inhale deeply (no muddling associations with soap will disrupt this bucolic scene, I promise) it's such a lovely bouquet orbiting dew-kissed daffodils. Now open your eyes, you are wearing a rarity in the perfume world- a true daffodil fragrance! Bravo, Redwood Alchemy! This is such an uplifting and beautifully intoxicating oil. A White Whale has been found! Labdanum (no notes listed) A single note of dark resins that curiously fizz and bubble on application then dry down to a woody almost boozy amber finish. Another excellent oil for layering and experimenting with other notes. Call Girl (Tobacco, Skin Musk, Roses) Roses can come in many forms from soapy to downright slinky and scandalous and if you are looking for the latter, you have to get ahold of Call Girl because this is an oh so naughty but refined tobacco and rose fragrance. I definitely smell Bulgarian Roses and there is something deeper underneath adding another overlay of the rose variety and true to the description on the website I am getting the unmistakable smudge of expensive lipstick or creamy wax violets (however you wish to interpret them). I know this is supposed to tell the scent story of a night encounter in a seedy motel but I can't help but think of a classy well sought after mistress in the 19th-century Austrian or Russian court. It's a bit exotic in ways with the rose petals and the stately tobacco combined with the kiss of violet and silky skin musk elevates this call girl to dame d'honneur! Bravo Redwood! Redwood Alchemy *Review composed in 2021 The stars decided to shine a little luck my way at the end of November 2020 into February 2021 as I won several giveaways on social media. This was my last and my head is still swimming from these amazing opportunities and generous indie shops. Velvet & Sweetpea's Purrfumery (having quite possibly the most adorable theme and elegantly done aesthetic I have ever encountered and this natural perfumery shop creates lux fragrant products with rare ingredients sourced from all over the world but also gives back to different funds and foundations; their most recent raise awareness project is for the endangered Pangolin). Luminous Lemurs Solid Perfume (Gathered Notes: Blood Orange, Ylang Ylang, Madagascar Vanilla, Egyptian Carnation, Clove, Nutmeg, Sandalwood and Cinnamon) Solid perfumes are a new medium for me to explore and I found myself reapplying several times all over in fascination as every note and application point morphed and I guess I amplify certain notes. Short assessment, Luminous Lemurs smells like a tropical and exotic sister scent of Alkemia's Trick or Treat. The blood orange opens the experience then slowly changes over to a spiced sweet banana-like fragrance coming from the ylang ylang then a distinct creamy carnation heart appears. The woody spices (even with a hint of hidden liquorice) and romantic vanilla finish out the 3 and half hours and I can see why this fragrance won so many awards. *Reviews composed in 2021 Some love a glass of good strong wine, some appreciate a solitary moment of relaxing music and some us love a fine atmospheric perfume (to drift off to restive sleep or read with). I fall into that final class and did I come across an immersive travel journal of scents to recommend from L'AVENTURA Perfumes. *Full disclosure: These fragrances were sent not for a review but as a generous "paying it forward" sweet act. I was not asked to supply any feedback, however, once I tried one vial I knew this little shop in New Mexico with advertised "uncommon fragrances" was one to recommend! All the blends had quite the noticeable throw and exceptional longevity (the longest being The Faraway (with Cotillion at a close second) which lasted 12 hours and Mothlight and Sanctuary at an equally impressive 8 to 9 hours). The perfumes lasted considerably longer in my hair and on my clothes. These were my second experience with Eau de Parfums and for anyone curious as I was- Yes, EdP blends soften with a bit of patient aging similar to perfume dab on oils. Packaging and Presentation: I was sent the Discovery Collection sample pack and the fragrances are in this clever packet that resembles a classier version of a library card stamp list, inside is an array of uncapped spray Eau de Parfum vials and each perfume is announced first with a snazzy mini scent list card and then a matching font style to each vial. I'm a shameless fiend for chic and eye-catching packaging and this little indie ticked that box. Scents (in order of the presented card):
Lions in the Library (Labdanum, bitter orange, old books, cistus, cashmeran, *civet- synthetic) On opening, the bitter orange is noticeable with a sweet-spicy nuance that gently gives way to an exotic scene of ancient leather-bound tomes of knowledge, dried scrolls of a lifetime of collecting the scent of the various beeswaxed polished woods constructing the shelves that hold all these manuscripts and dusty words. I'm not sure if it's the fantastic (well needed) intellectual hangover of speaking to this scent artist about different genres of literature (specifically settling on a wonderful discussion on the A Song of Ice and Fire series; her studio is in Santa Fe, New Mexico after all) swaying this association, but Lions in the Library makes me think of the perfect Citadel note representation and the scent of the home to the order of the maesters (I may be reading the morphing bitter orange and hidden dark honey as polished steel and iron for the fancy but it conjures the idea of forged metal under the old and new wood built to accommodate all the words and knowledge of the Seven Kingdoms). It's meditative and sweeping atmospheric I wasn't expecting. It's marvellous for a sleep scent potion and I'm adding Lions in the Libary (as a Lannister supporter I must say the name is perfect!) to my evocative reading list to wear when The Winds of Winter debuts. Sanctuary (Palo Santo, char, amber, holy bourbon, benzoin, costus) One spritz and I'm attending a ritualistic bonfire and fascinating service deep in an undisclosed location staring up at the sky waiting for mysteries of the universe to open up. I've never been to a true desert climate but this is how I imagine a night scene in the desert to smell like, it's dusty dirty but "cleansing to the mind and spirit" as well. There is something about Palo Santo and smoke that touches some portion of my frazzled brain and forces it to settle and relax and seek out unique trivia when I smell it and Sanctuary is just that, a sanctuary of the self and exploration to new subjects. The Faraway (Desert Sage, juniper, salt cedar, sedge grass, warm sandstone) Now I don't know the exact inspirations for all the available catalogue fragrances but I do know that The Faraway is an ode to Georgia O'Keeffe and her one specific painting. I'm afraid I am deficient in this area of culture and I can't compare the strokes of shading and composition of the notes to the painting (hopefully someone reading could try this fragrance and provide that type of write up someday soon). I can, however, tell everyone The Faraway takes me back to fossil hunting and rock identifying in the hot summer sun as a child with my satchel of cobbled together paleotologist tools borrowed from my grandparents' garage and makeup brushes, and this perfume is another impressive atmospheric with salted dusty earth and lush greenery and also another relaxing blend to receive pleasant dreams with. Cotillion (Orange blossom, jasmin, carnation, spanish moss, tobacco, clipped lawn) Cotillion is a floral citrus spiced venture to the lawns of Gatsby's Mansion, it's a joyous celebration that spares no expense or gives any apologies for the frivolity and supplied atmosphere (if you adore rich florals this one is for you). The dry down is a realistic sophisticated tobacco fougere finishing off this unexpected romantic ode to the "lost generation" and excess of the roaring 1920s. This was my starred favourite. Mothlight (Lemon, pink peppercorn, ambrette seed, snuffed candle, sandalwood, musks) No surprise that a rarely assembled list of notes equals one extraordinary scent experience. Mothlight is the perfect name for this perfume as it smells like a glowing light in a darkened loft and I must applaud when L'AVENTURA lists a note such as "snuffed candle" this isn't a poetic interpretation, there is an actual realistic snuffed candle aroma serving as the backdrop with a creamy sandalwood. When I let my mind wander, I think of painting studios of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood with shadows and soft cloth draping a figure standing still for hours with only the sounds of a slick brush touching across a canvas and the gentle plinking of a spirit-message carrying moth breaking the silence. Now that's scent art! L'AVENTURA *Reviews composed in 2021 Like many others, I consider the brilliant scent artist of MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean/Mooscents to be the Willy Wonka of the Indie realm and forgive me if I make the comparison to feeling like little Charlie Bucket stepping behind the gates of a world of scent whimsy and imaginative confections as I was offered to explore perfumes from different releases. This was a dream opportunity as MoonaLisa was my introduction to heavenly gourmand fragrances with The Rumpkin! years ago and as I unwrapped every decorated vial I sampled this past month, I discovered new fantastic facets of different fruits, lush florals, seasonal specials and complex olfactory ingredients that continue to tantalize and mystify every time I wave my wrist. These oils were pure magic and I couldn't think of a better place that would be curious to follow along and relive a bit of childhood and captured olfactory alchemy. Let's step behind the gates and visit a real music-maker... *Full Disclosure: These vials were sent for honest reviews 🍰🥧🍭The Cake and Pie Room On entry, we are greeted by a vast sprawling landscape of whipped delights ranging from the traditional to the fanciful. Buttercream mountains reach the ceilings and moist sponge cake and piecrusts serve as the foundations we dance across and let our noses guide us to nuanced fruits and new candied obsessions with a bewitching quality... Bongo Poppy Cake (Delicious, lemon poppy seed cake, drowned in an unhealthy dose of lightly spiced cream cheese icing dripping all over it) Akin to cutting out a thick slice of moist lemon cake with a spread of cream cheese icing and taking that first heavenly sniff before devouring all in sight. The lemon is perfectly balanced with the vanilla cake (with a hint of cardamom and additional grated spice) and I get about 5 hours of waltzing about with uninterrupted baking divinity before it fades to a faint lemon peel with sweet cream cheese and a hidden marshmallow scent. I also own Bongo Poppy Cake in the hair detangler and I notice very little in scent difference, they both smell luscious although the hair detangler lasts a full day on me and I enjoy imagining I am swanning about with a tower of lemon cake balanced in my curled bouffant for the night. Where's My Pie (Scented over the top with everything but the kitchen sink! Buttery, flaky pie crust, cinnamon, pumpkin, carrot, caramel, clove, nutmeg, whipped cream and pecan just to name a few) Everyone may be running in the direction of the spring and summer treats but my nose could happily stay in the gooey spiced corner that is set up with Where's My Pie. As an avid baker, I can attest this smells like a spread of several pies and nutty delicacies with even a crusty buttery bread pudding rolled on the side. It may all sound tooth-achingly sweet but it's a brilliantly balanced blend and is a comforting mashup of autumnal, winter and even early spring pastries with a slice of cream cheese topped carrot cake peeking out. I'm marking Where's My Pie down for everything this upcoming fall. Lemon Curd and Coconut Cream (Lemon curd and coconut cream with graham crust) Being a recent convert to the taste of toasted coconut in both culinary and fragrance forms, I must say, I completely understand the myriad of positive reviews on this perfume and I want to gnaw on my wrists. This is the real deal of realistic dessert fragrances and out of all the oils I showed off at work, Lemon Curd and Coconut Cream was the winner with my coworkers as I had a most entertaining night sitting back and watching others with twirling eyes looking for a Tupperware container of lemon and coconut cream pie throughout the night when they walked past my desk and hearing "Who brought in dessert and is hiding it?" several times after midnight. Each note is perfectly balanced and hits the nose creating the ultimate compliment of making me want to bake up a storm on a sunny spring morning with a newfound ingredient. For longevity, this one went on to baffle and tantalize those around me (this oil has a huge throw) for 15 hours. I will be going after this blend this upcoming release in choice products for home and of course at work (hehe). Rosewater & Angel Food Cake (Fluffy white sponge cake with signature Almond extract and rich fragrant coconut with an added addition of a rose water syrup note.) Angel Food Cake is a special scent in my household as my late grandparents whipped up a specific recipe every sunday family gathering and this is indeed a slice of traditional fluffy Angel Food Cake with a shaved coconut and rosewater syrup, it bouncy and light and surprisingly stays close to the skin. Out of all the vials, I tried Rosewater & Angel Food Cake was the softest even with the almond extract and coconut coming in contact with my skin chemistry that loves to amp those two notes. This would be a nice layering option with possibly something from "the strawberry waterfall" that we will visit in a bit. Chocolate Covered Cherries (aka Cherry Cordial: Just like the candy! Chocolate covered cherry candy with liquor in it) Speaking of nostalgic scents, here's a box of Queen Anne Chocolate Cordial Cherries bottled up to sweep me away to my great-grandmother's house! This is Moona's signature milk chocolate coating a candied cherry, it's delicious and comforting at the same time. For longevity, Chocolate Covered Cherries taps out at 8 hours and stays somewhat close but still manages to cast about a low noticeable throw. The inside of the candy with the cherry stands out to my nose hours later with the amazing chocolate fading to that distinct aroma of the bottom of an empty candy box sans the waxiness, it's the sweet ghostly kiss of cocoa! Befana (Warm crusty baked bread, doused with butter and dripping with honey and traditional spices of cinnamon and clove.) This ode to the benevolent old woman of Italian folklore who visits children with gifts and is said to have housed the three wise men is full of surprises as instead of listed bread, I smell the unmistakable aroma of lemon and orange peel madeleine cookies! The outside holds that slight buttery crispy crunch of waiting fruit then that fluffy inside shell wafts about, it's lovely and lasts several hours which is impressive with anything citrus on my skin. I always associate madeleine cookies with springtime tea-parties or mini pastel draped soirées and Befana is invited for those events. Sugar Rum Cherry (Sugared Vanilla Bourbon rummed Cherries) Mmm this is a marriage of Snow Ice to the inside of Chocolate Covered Cherries, it's warm fruit and buttery thick cream with a surprise boozy finish. This is elevated somehow from simply candy sweet to an elegant (even a bit naughty as it morphs on the skin) olfactory confection and I'm pleased to jot down, Sugar Rum Cherry loves my skin. I bet this one would be incredible in the hair conditioner as you dance and sing out of key to "Pour Some Sugar On Me" in the shower. Caramel Cardamon Affogato (Indulge in a deep Vanilla Bourbon Musk with hot, steamy cocoa, and Cafe Macchiato, drizzled in rich caramel, and Vanilla sugared milk, spiced perfectly with cardamon and nutmeg.) Just like the ultra-soothing and blanking effect Where's My Pie has upon my senses, Carmel Cardamom Affogato is one blend I could wrap myself in and forget the cold world with. This is a rich inviting vanilla and foamy macchiato and spiced cake aroma that beguiles the nose and amplifies the cosy factor of autumnal or winter selections then leaves you with an unexpected honeyed steamed milk note 6 hours later that then lasts an additional 8 hours and sees you off to dreamland. Mmm, I'm a shameless spice fiend and I don't care who knows it. Absolutely sublime! I must grab this fragrance in a bath option this next winter. 🍓🌠🌈The Strawberry WaterfallAs your eyes scan the horizon you notice a wonder of a crystal-faceted jar that catches the light ever so brilliantly be tilted on its side and pipped bright pink and red sweet jam spreads thickly across a bed of powdered fried dough, fluffy marshmallow and spangled rainbow spectrums of light bounce off to beckon you closer. I promise you no artificial aromas will offend, only pure homemade goodness... Jingle Jelly Donuts (The irresistible scent of sugary fried dough, sweet vanilla, and gobs of oozing strawberry jam) 2021 is shaping up to be the year of the scrumdiddlyumptious strawberry hunt for myself as when I first spritzed my locks with the hair detangler in Jingle Jelly Donuts, the insatiable pursuit was on and when asked what I would love to try from this enchanting house of fragrance, I wanted ALL the strawberries. This one is homemade strawberry jam inside a shell of dough and drizzled in warm vanilla glaze with a sprinkle of powdered sugar. No guilt, no calories just an addictive series of ingredients that is hard to stop spritzing and slathering. Between the hair detangler and the perfume oil, the vanilla glaze is more prominent in my curls with the dark strawberry jam while my skin amps the powdered sugared dough with the photo-realistic jam as a middle note. No matter where I huff, I'm in love. Strawberry Marshmallow (Bursting fruity strawberry goodness married with ooey marshmallow cream, a match made in heaven) And now we come to admittedly one of my favourite vials from the whole tour, as this is exactly like holding a fresh strawberry by the green stem and dipping it into a bowl of marshmallow cream, taking a bite letting the juice run down your chin with childish glee then going directly back for a more full dunk. As with Jingle Jelly Donuts, Strawberry Marshmallow has changed everything I thought about strawberry perfumes. No artificial candy here or recollections of cupcake dolls, just pure indulgence and temptation that lasts into the next day and a new fragrance to hoard away at the next release. *flops back and inhales wrists and hair* I wish to reside by the delicious Strawberry Waterfall feature all day, however, there is still so much to see... but wait a second I see a few kicking their heels and hear grumbles in the back that they don't like gourmands, ah no worries, you may love the next collection of scents, come along... 🍷🌹🎨As much as I love comparing Moona to Willy Wonka she can also transform and transport the senses to different eras and scenes from novels, legends and treasured memories with a palette of rich florals, warm resins and nifty atmospheric effects. Here's a gallery that may interest you. Hygge (The Danish word, pronounced "hoo-ga", is usually translated into English as "coziness". Picture sitting by a fireplace, wearing your softest cozy slipper-socks, surrounded by the warm glow of candles, soft music playing, drinking mulled wine and hot coffees, while eating hot Danish pastries! That is definitely Hygge! Notes include: Gently spiced wine and coffees, wafting of warm Beeswax with subtle smokiness with a background of Danish pastry!) This is the scent that started the atmospheric gallery for me as I was able to try the Potion Lotion (thank you so much, Samantha!) in Hygge last year and with one thick lotion application I was in awe and love and I knew if given the chance I must sample the oil. What a difference between the two formats! The lotion is all heavenly vanilla cheese danish on me with a backing of equally realistic beeswax candles and the perfume is a whole storybook scene of warmth, peace and security with familiar black coffee opening then gently giving way to the barest aroma of a freshly trimmed Christmas tree all aglow and then the delectable vanilla drizzled cheese danish dessert is sliced and the textbook buttery flakiness and the barest sprinkle of homey spice and mulled fruit fully catches my attention and a swirl of holiday memories dances about in the glow of a traditional Christmas Eve candle that I fondly remember lighting and then blowing out to predict the future with my pappy as the first visible star of the night twinkled above such a lovely scene. Isn't it wonderful how indie perfumes can sweep us back to happier times? I know it's a splendid blessing for me and I have Hygge down for everything next Yule. Amber Rose (A beautifully rich and inciting Amber blended with real Bulgarian Rose essential oil makes for a heavenly blend.) Amber Rose is an ostentatious deep rose scent with a warm amber base and hints of hidden violet and frankincense (perhaps even a drop of spikenard?) I have been looking for a perfume that brings to mind Empress Elisabeth of Austria and by gum, I believe I have found it with Amber Rose. Legend has it that Empress Sisi would splash Bulgarian Rose oil in her infamous locks and that's what I plan to do when it returns. For those that missed out on Moona's The Coven, here is that blend's sister-scent with a vintage edge and missing the romantic vanilla from The Coven. Peches Melba (Juicy ripe peaches with a teeny squeeze of lemon, and fresh raspberry topped vanilla bean ice cream) Absolute scent sorcery, the peaches stay true and fresh without morphing into cat urine on my skin and I swear I smell COLD vanilla ice cream. The raspberries are crushed and cold as well. This blend has more throw with the gentle lemon raspberries and peach catching the attention first drawing the nose in then the creamy vanilla ice cream swirls around. This paints one passage from a treasured novel (The House of Mirth) and I will dab then slather and let Peches Melba take me away to the classy restaurant of Old New York and indulge in a bit of extravagance with the lovely Lily Bart in attendance (but I outshine her of course). Georgina (Creamy white Chocolate, fresh juicy Strawberries and Rose *created by Moona's young son) This is a creamy dreamy mélange of rose petals, fresh strawberries and distinct white chocolate that intensifies as the hours tick by. On application, the roses shower over the strawberries and the white chocolate serves as a nice sweet buttery afternote and some Easter basket memories. Mmm, it's been a long time since I found a pure white chocolate note without a distracting woody finish and Georgina is simply ace. I'm marking this delectable fruity-floral-gourmand for a hair conditioner option. A Discovery of Witches (Moona's rendition of the romantic description of Matthew de Clermont to his beloved Diana as to the scent of her skin~ Willow Sap, Chamomile, Golden Honey, Frankincense, Lady's Mantle, and *ancient things I thought I'd forgotten. * which includes in Moona's interpretation as Sacred Spikenard, Labdanum and Frankincense, among other beautiful components. Hmmm, sigh.....) A hodgepodge of morphing notes from nature and fantasy that all equals a mysterious vanilla-honey cream scent on the skin with a sprinkling of ritual spring herbs on top that hold some coolness and yet warmth somehow at the same inhale. A Discovery of Witches is one of those "your skin but better" romantic collages I adore that has some unexpected twists. I never read the books but I can easily imagine this character's personality, her hidden powers and understand why she is so irresistible to all those she encounters. Poetry (Romance is in the air with this balance of scent between floral, citrus, spice, and resin. Orange blossom cream with an English Toffee swirl and a touch of Frankincense and Ginger) This is a stunning work of scent art with an uplifting orange blossom opening, a creamy toffee swirl with a hint of resins and spicy ending*.* It contains elegant depth and morphing elements and has joined Nui Cobalt's LOVE (and Ambre Doré- to be rambled about shortly) as fragrances that transport me into a Pre-Raphaelite painting or a stained glass window. Poetry is perfectly named and there are subtle differences noticed between the hair detangler and perfume oil, if anything my curls amp the romantic orange blossoms with buttery toffee while my skin slightly amplifies the frankincense and ginger spice. Both exceedingly lovely and a starred favourite. Haunted Home (Haunt your halls with this bewitching blend of woods, herbs, resins and a touch of spice. Even an Addams would be envious of this brew! Reminiscent of the feeling and aroma of Moona's FAVORITE ride in the whole wide world, Haunted Mansion!) I dabbed and slathered and sniffed and huffed dozens of times and I honestly can't completely unravel this blend, it's just one of those rare atmospherics that you truly just go along the ride with and changes every time you try it! I know I smell Moona's trademark dulcet and dreamy lavender, various soft spices with dusty wood and I think some hidden gingerbread and a sprinkle of refined pipe tobacco; it's mysterious and somehow sweetly comforting. I love to wear Haunted Home to bed and let the notes drift me off to pleasant restive dreams. I need Haunted Home for my bath and in a dusting powder this year. Krampus Night! (Out of the German Black Forest to punish and drag away the naughty and not nice comes Krampus! Various dry woods including birch, blended with a touch of silken white wool and suede, sweet smoldering resinous embers, with a touch of wet blackened earth) Ah, Krampus Night! I first fell hard for this fragrance when a cleverly designed soap sample was included in my Yule order a few years back and I'm excited to note that the highly anticipated perfume carries the same intoxicating lump of coal-shaped soap's scent and my skin amps the seductive factors of Krampus Night!. In the soap, it was a collage of sweet nostalgic resins with a drop of suede and patchouli while with the oil format my skin unleashes the gentle spices with orange peel, suede, Moona's signature fir note and dark patchouli. In many ways, Krampus Night! reminds me of Kris Kringle but there are more clove, cinnamon and a naughty thack of birch and suede, which all makes sense as Krampus is said to be the opposite of Kris Kringle in the legends. Very clever interpretation. Marking another down for a bath option when the icy winds begin to howl. Ambre Doré (An Amber years in the making! Tenacious & rich with a sweet bourbon vanilla & resinous balsam base. The dry down is slightly woody with a touch of leather & a creamy hay like sensuous subtly) In the vial, I get inspiring vanilla extract with a kick and once it touches my skin it morphs completely to this stunning cold crystalline non-gourmand vanilla that I recognize from one point in A Discovery of Witches. It's romantic, boozy and meditative but also holds some seductive properties to the nose. It brings to mind Waterhouse's The Lady of Shalott classic painting and as a water sign and hopeless romantic I'm here for it all! For longevity, this one goes on for 14 hours and I do believe I need Ambre Doré in a dusting powder and argan oil option if funds permit. Halloween Hayride (Harvest hay, bonfires and dried leaves mix with amber, smoky sandalwood, and musk. In the distance, you are anxious to get to back to the circle with the promise of roasted marshmallows, and other sugary seasonal treats) Another realistic atmospheric to recommend as this is indeed a bouncing ride behind a puttering tractor with the vibrant blaze of autumnal leaves swishing in the chilled winds. There are apple orchards off in the near distance and someone is waving a blackened gooey marshmallow up at you as you pass a cosy bonfire. Halloween Hayride conjures the idyllic tableau that I would love to escape into at the moment. I'll just tuck this vial away when summer begins or bring it out when I'm fed up with any sticky humid days. Abigail (Sweet Vanilla Sugared Violets in Marshmallow cream, on a bed of golden sandalwood and a peak of tantalizing dark cocoa) The listed notes say strictly gourmand but Abigail is another surprise atmospheric taking those to the 18th and 19th centuries with ribbons and frothy lace and delicacies in gold caskets. Out of all the perfumes I sampled on this tour, this one carries the most "perfume" identity with the violets and sandalwood but it somehow works creating a rich scene of ladies of leisure with lace fans and perfumed love letters under candied violets and the last remnants of dark coco-dusted truffles. Sweet Smoke & Wood (Sweet smoldering Yule bonfires of Sandalwood and sweet aromas of the season) If you love relaxing meditative fragrances, come closer, no not that close. Stand back about 6 feet and tell me what you smell because Sweet Smoke & Wood has one impressive throw. I get the inside of a lush fir tree then creamy sandalwood amplifies along with a touch of spiced woodsmoke. It's one of those medleys you inhale and go back for another then flop back and let the winter musings aroma surround you and ease tension and negative thoughts blocking a better outlook for the day. For longevity, this blend was one of the longest-lasting out of the bunch clocking in at 18 hours and then still noticeable after a bath (thank goodness I love this Sweet Smoke & Wood and don't mind it lingering). ____________________________________ The Perfect 10: Strawberry Marshmallow, Jingle Jelly Donuts, Hygge, Lemon Curd & Coconut Cream, Ambre Doré, Bongo Poppy Cake, Poetry, Peches Melba, Where's My Pie and Haunted Home Thank you for reading and allowing me to share one of the greatest scent experiences I have ever had. New House of Fragrance on the Horizon/FEATURED: Jorum Studio (Scented love letters from Scotland)3/29/2022
*Reviews composed in 2021 I dream of visiting Scotland one day... Until then I have a trove of poetic scent ventures to sweep me away with a wave of the wrist. 🦄The following perfumes were won from a giveaway by Jorum Studio on social media. They were my first experience with Edp forms of fragrances and introduction to niche perfume as well as natural perfumery. I will be visiting this house of fragrance again. Carduus (Chamomile, Bengal Pepper, Honey, Clary Sage, Sea-holly, Marjoram Tea, Myrtle, Rose Absolute, Vetch, Clove Bud, Hart’s Tongue, Tuberose, Musk-thistle, Heliotrope, Tormentil, Mahogany, Cocoa Absolute, Tobacco, Meum, Deertongue, Cherrywood) 'Nemo me impune lacessit' – the Order of the Thistle. The defiant motto of Scotland, an ancestral virtue. This olfactory ode to the thistle opens with a drop of honeyed cocoa that quickly disappears then this captivating unlisted creamy liquorice and herbaceous combination comes forth and completely sweeps me away as the liquorice deepens with a slick green earthy smokiness akin to incense that I was not expecting. For oil comparison, Carduus reminds me in ways of Trimerous with the addition of seductive anise, so it is no wonder my skin and nose adore this. When it comes to longevity, this perfume holds the crown as the longest-lasting of the six blends in the Progressive Botany Vol. I collection clocking in at an impressive 18 hours. Mysterious romantic liquorice and inspiring earthy incense, take me away! Trimerous (Carrot Seed, Bergamot, Nectarine, Thyme, Cicely, Pink Pepper, Juniper, Cloudberry, Angelica Root, Orris Butter, Kombucha, Centaury, Suede, Oud, Musk*, Ambergris, Styrax, Vanilla, Incense) "There is eerie silence after the Harvest. From the small square window we await the autumnal shift. Dusting across fields of Hare-eared crowns, we pray the rare roots make it through the hoar."
Nectary (Bramble, Cranberry, Peach, Rose Absolute, Oud, Ambergris, Roseroot, Olibanum, Selfheal, Castoreum*, Civet*, Labdanum Absolute, Musk)* *of synthetic origin. "Born of a daydream to create a garden for the skin. Equal parts flower, leaf and soil." Not your average or tamed rose scent, this floral-fruit wine medley has a bite and naughty side that takes a little bit of patient aging to fully meld together, but once it does, you're under its seductive animallic spell and there is no turning back or putting this bottle down. The vivid wild picture Nectary paints is one you can't wait to escape to. Arborist (Quince, Honey, Saffron, Osmanthus Absolute, Magnolia, Burdock, Papyrus, Mugwort, Rose Absolute, Tuberose, Myrrh Absolute, Spruce Resin, Douglas Fir, Labdanum, Jatamansi, Malt, Lichen) "The Green Man - a study of humanity’s visceral and tempestuous relationship with nature." Speaking of vivid scenes you can't wait to escape back to, could the primal god who embodies this fragrance (and Carduus) please step forward and claim me already? What isn't to love about Arborist, it's realistic sun-dappled forest greenery, smoky shadows, salty skin and sweet nothings whispered by a bubbling stream. It's fantastic for an unexpected sleep-time fragrance and a solid recommendation for any earth signs. Medullary-Ray (Fig-leaf, Cardamom, Olive, Juniper, Frankincense, Orris Butter, Rose Absolute, Pomegranate, Myrrh, Vetiver, Guaicwood, Papyrus, Hay, Birch, Cedarwood, Castoreum*, Valerian, Sandalwood Oil) *of synthetic origin. "Rays of Tuscan springtime glint between the strokes of the woodworker’s plane. The midday air fills heavy with the scent of blushed fruit and waxen-leaf."
Phloem (Passion Fruit, Rhubarb, Mulberry, Nasturtium, Honeysuckle, Blaeberry, Camellia, Oysterplant, Meadowsweet, Gorse, Ambrette, Sesame, Amyris, Tonka Bean Absolute) "Like a neon trident, vascular blooms rip through mercurial waters. Candied rosé sky floods the costal cottage provoking lucid dreams of obsessive Selkie skin-love, lips smack with saline dab."
I just had to finish out the collection by purchasing a sample of Athenaeum from Indigo Perfumery when I went on to explore the sister shop to Jorum (but I'll share those another day). Athenaeum (Scottish Lavender, Beeswax*, Fennel, Apple, Honey, Neroli oil, Hyacinth, Flouve, Patchouli, Morocco Leather*, Gurjun Balsam, Oak, Ink. *of synthetic origin.)
"Athenaeum is the distillation of a once forgotten yet fond olfactory memory, awakened upon a chance encounter at the local athenaeum. It is the fragmented and hazy reminiscence of a rural childhood found once more in the urban landscape" This is only how I would finish out the perfect venture or adventure to a dream locale- a trip in springtime to an ancient stone building steeped in history and towering with priceless books. One wave of my wrist and I'm walking in the countryside with nodding hyacinths and rustling apple trees greeting me as I find a path strewn with lush heather to an ancient stone church nestled in the foggy hills. I can smell the waxed wood of the kneeling pews as I walk in to these hollowed walls and the buttery leather and tang of the gall ink of the books lining shelves, ancient and mysterious manuscripts beckon for a peek. I could stay here forever. I hope this place exists Atheneum creates in my mind. Jorum Studio *Reviews composed in 2021 South Star- Sweet creamy peach, vanilla beans, liatrix and a woody-ambrette accord, all topped off with a hint of cinnamon. This one morphs a hundred different ways with peach from fresh juice dribbled into vanilla batter to those peach saver candies I remember from the 90s that were extremely limited editions around Easter-tide and then back to soft somehow adult smelling dessert, but it all never churns up any hint of cat urine which my skin usually changes peach blends into. South Star is stunning and I adore the woody-spicy warmth of the cinnamon and ambrette. I finally found my perfect peach perfume and I have dabbled with some 'dark perfume arts' recently layering a drop of Alkemia's C24 underneath South Star and noticed some extra attention, haha. Eyes seem to light up and smiles are noted when South Star is near. Such an alluring and delicious peach perfume! A Long Winter's Nap- Sweet dreams of candied citrus, a touch of sparkling ginger aldehydes, smooth herbaceous lavender and a gently-honeyed sweet skin musk with a hint of beeswax. A zippy and bubbly ginger and dreamy lavender medley that is aptly named as this blend is divine to drift off with and then greets you be a soft honeyed lavender kiss upon waking hours later. When What to My Wondering Eyes- Peppermint candy stick swirled into rich dark chocolate mocha, jazzed up with a festive splash of Irish Cream. As it says on the tin, this is a naughty sweet libation that is delicious and nostalgic with realistic mocha and a candy stick adorning the mug. As with Autumn Morning the superb chocolate note is the first note to fade on me and the other notes morph and playfully shift with every hour and go on to entice and enchant the senses hours later. Charmingly named and a must if you love creamy peppermint. PULP Fragrance Say the words "peanut butter, spice, marshmallow, lilac, pomegranate and frankincense" all in the same breath and I'll show you my pocketbook, haha. Astrid Perfumes (formerly Blooddrop) has been on my radar for years and I took a little gamble with reaching for 2 vials from different collections from a trusted decanter (Ajevie). At the end of the night, I had one beautifully wicked find and one that will be surrendered to a whipped soap treatment, but I'm jumping ahead of myself. These were my thoughts after a LONG winter's nap for both of these vials. Peanut Butter Pony (Peanut butter cookie accord, marshmallow, and cinnamon sugar buttercream) So many promises and hopes were laid on this one mini dram purchase and once applied and settled, I get a delightful cinnamon buttercream aroma with the crumbs of a leftover Peanut Butter cookie, it leaves me wanting more and thinking of the cookies of Christmases Past. It's gentle (too much so) and delicious but nothing to write home about to be honest. When it comes to the anticipated marshmallow, it is evident and I can add my (off key) voice to the choir about Astrid Perfume's infamous Marshmallow accord, it's impressive and realistic but again I'm hungry for more of it. The search continues for my dream peanut butter cookie fragrance that lasts and Peanut Butter Pony will be trotting off to a whipped soap/deep conditioning treatment one of these nights so my curls can carry a waft of wintertime delights. The Longest Night (Shimmering plum, lilac blossom accord, velvety black amber, sanguine pomegranate, and frankincense.) Mmmhm, this is the Queen of the Underworld on a date night with her King (or thrall)! He's under her power and oh how beautifully wicked she looks and can be in a spangled mantle of dark purple and black, her eyes glow, snap and flash in the flames pulling in her desired. The world above them sleeps in a torrent of ice and dreams of spring but in the cold darkness they reign and toss petals into the river and watch as the deep endless waters drown and consume. This is a gorgeous marriage of forbidden and lore-laced fruits, shimmering resins and the ghost of lilac blossoms. It somehow crackles and yet deepens with every previous note creating a dark romance and vision I never want to escape. Needless to say a full bottle of The Longest Night will be joining a certain red roped-off corner of my collection someday. Astrid Perfume Reviews composed in November 2020 to January 2021 ✴The longer the following perfumes were patiently aged, the more undernote nuances reveal themselves with every wear. Longevity: Shortest (XIII and Bad Apple at 2 and nearly 4 hours) Longest (Ambrille and Sacred Vanille at 14+ hours) One Note At A Time: Bespoke/Custom Fragrance At the beginning of October 2020 I submitted the idea of a bottled quote from one of my favourite books with the specific notes of French Vanilla, Vintage-styled Amber and Marshmallow. The owner showed sincere enthusiasm over my custom's concept and shared his extensive knowledge of different subjects when he suggested additions to my blend with Labdanum and White Musk. He then even went up and above that and obtained a very special component (pheromones) for the perfect final touch when I requested this last minute submission. May I present Ambrille! She's finally home and is so good she made it into general catalogue. From start to finish this was an experience I highly recommend if you have been searching in vain for a specific blend to add to your collection or one special fragrance to drape yourself in. Ambrille (Notes: French Vanilla, Marshmallow, Labdanum, White Musk) This blend dances a fine line between gourmand and naughty vintage with the initial opening of creamy french vanilla along with sweet marshmallow then warms up with the vintage amber and slight caramelly "pop" of labdanum resin. The final notes that leave me 15 hours later are intoxicating white musk and the lingering sweetness of the vanilla and marshmallow. It matches the iconic quote from Rebecca: "I wish I were a woman of 36, dressed in black satin with a string of pearls." and can be worn like a comforting elegant scarf or expensive soft sweater throughout the colder months; which is all exactly what I wanted. ❇the version of Ambrille available on the site does not contain any frisky pheromones. Hand Sanitizer in Harvest Spice (Simmered autumn fruit blends with warm nutmeg and clove spiked with crisp afterthoughts of ginger and cinnamon in the familiar taste of fall) This lux hand sanitizer comes in a rather large 2oz bottle that has stood up well in my handbag and has not broken open accidentally in the months it has been knocking around and accompanying to and from normal every day. The formula contains the required 70% alcohol and it does the job with a vegetal scent with rich autumnal earth and warm comforting spice along with a kiss of fruit (other than pumpkin) that lasts up to 3 hours and is addictive to sneak huffs of when no one is looking. Harvest Spice isn't your average pumpkin aroma and I hope it returns in the the perfume version because it is a fragrance I need to own. I would purchase this lux hand sanitizer again but also would love this in Marshmallow. ✴When I received my finished Custom Fragrance in November all decked out in gift box, a surprise sample was found nestled in the box and I fell hard. Call Girl (Notes: Tobacco, Skin Musk, Roses) Roses can come in many forms from soapy to downright slinky and scandalous and if you are looking for the latter, you have to get ahold of Call Girl because this is an oh so naughty but refined tobacco and rose fragrance. I definitely smell Bulgarian Roses and there is something deeper underneath adding another layer of the rose variety and true to the description on the website I am getting the unmistakable smudge of expensive lipstick or creamy wax violets (however you wish to interpret them). I know this is supposed to tell the scent story of a night encounter in a seedy motel but I can't help but think of a classy well sought after mistress in the 19th-century Austrian or Russian court. It's a bit exotic in ways with the rose petals and the stately tobacco combined with the kiss of violet and silky skin musk elevates this call girl to dame d'honneur! Bravo Redwood! My second order was a bunch of samples that had intrigued me for weeks. Sacred Vanille (Notes: Vanilla, Wood, Copal, Gardenia, Amber, Musk & Spice) It remains a mystery if the copal or the noticeable textural wood note (or the combination) is a particular scent sticking out from my skin that I'm unsure about. The spice and amber is warm and seductive with the sweet butteriness of the gardenia and vanilla. My skin can be so cruel at times as that particular scent I mentioned amplifies and drowns out the lovely gardenia, vanilla and spice. I'm marking Sacred Vanille down for a whipped soap treatment in the coming weeks. Candy Cane layering note This hits the sweet and sentimental spot for me as a beloved family member always smelled of peppermint and when she was away and I was upset, I would sit in a corner and sniff the candies she had secretly stuffed my pockets with. This is refreshing and yet somehow creamy and soft. Candy Cane also has a positive effect on when my stomach is flipping knots at a certain time of the month as after sitting down and smelling Candy Cane for several minutes, I feel so much better. The power of comforting peppermint, it still works even all these years later for me. Krampus (Notes: Mint, Musk, Smoke, Clove & Pepper) All the notes are there in a musky oily and somehow bracing way. I get the peppermint with the dark elements underneath and I know it's not listed but I smell a hint of non-obnoxious black shiny leather hiding in the background with the clove. Krampus is unique with the spice and musk yet completely wearable for every day adding something unfamiliar and sinister. A definite keeper. Elysia (Notes: Notes: Lily of the Valley, Salt, Wood, Musk) This is such a lovely scent for work as it's ethereal and feminine with a twist of poetic floral sweetness and is one of those your skin but better types of perfumes to recommend. This fragrance brings to mind the imagined scent of the dust from trembling butterfly wings. I don't think I have any other lily of the valley perfume that is so soft yet enchanting in my collection. XIII (Description: An unlucky blend of bergamot, tangerine, and lemon. Creaking wood, thunder that rattles the bones. Dark, moonlit waters. All laced with a sweet sliver of hope.) On my skin a hidden sugary aquatic scent amps along with zippy citrus and hidden metal note combination that oddly helps me drift off to sleep after a long dark night. To my nose, XIII leans masculine in a debonair way that is magnetic and yet calming. For longevity, this blends fades within 2 hours and no trace remains when I wake 9 hours later. And I'll just be tucking this alluring oil away for "someday". Bad Apple (Notes: Apple, Musk, Leather) I've been watching way too many Disney, Fairytale, Zodiac/dark sides of signs comparisons because this brings to mind "BAD Snow White". It starts off so innocent at first with gentle wafts of wet realistic apple skin and sweetness of a hidden floral, then a sinister smirk, a violent shuddering thunder and lightning crash over the forest and this woman doesn't need a prince with a flousy name to save her. I love these dramatic types of fragrance transformations. I was a little concerned about the apple but this is a fine blend and takes my imagination away. My only caveat is, I wish Bad Apple lasted longer on me- barely 4 hours on my skin. Top 3 choices (besides Ambrille): Call Girl, Elysia and Candy Cane Redwood Alchemy *Reviews composed in December 2020 I was over the moon when the owner of PULP Fragrance asked me if I would be interested in reviewing their debut collections and this little house of fragrance shot me to the stars when I found a holy grail perfume featuring a note I never thought I would be able to wear and enjoy, but I'm jumping ahead of myself. Here were my full thoughts on PULP Fragrance, where scent does indeed tell a story. For longevity, everything lasted far beyond it took me to eat the delicious Canadian sourced treats that were included (haha), but it all seriousness the oils stayed noticeable between 4 hours (Autumn Morning and Haunted Hills) to over 12+ hours (Ensnare and Portrait of Josette). Presentation: Speaks for itself. A sleek and creative nod to late mid-century fiction with specific themes translated over perfectly with the label designs, matching fonts and addition of a gorgeous themed bookmark. They nailed this particular aesthetic. One Note At A Time: Portrait of Josette (Ethereal white amber, dry wood of a long-abandoned seaside house, a hint of orris, and the lingering memory of jasmine perfume.) This was my inaugural dip into this house of fragrance and I was taken on quite the scent journey as Portrait of Josette opens on the skin with a nifty "flickering" effect of the orris, salt and dry wood and white floral that first disappears faintly then reappears with a strikingly beautiful quality that lasts the entire night and lingers into the morning hours. It brings to mind an expensive European perfume worn by the bygone elite and forlorn ghosts of lost eras of elegance staring out in the depths of the rolling sea. Brava, is all I can say! Autumn Morning (Warm mug of hot chocolate, bowl of slightly spiced oatmeal, bouquet of carnations, and a cosy blanket on your lap. (Cinnamon & clove in trace amounts only.) The longer this oil rested the better it became as today it's a lovely spiced creamy froth from a cup of hot chocolate surrounded by scattered carnation petals and hints of crystallized maple syrup. It paints a cozy scene and as the hours tick by the tactile aroma of a fleece blanket appears along with strength of the velvety touch of the carnation petals and slightly toasted rolled oats. The soft chocolate note is the first to fade within minutes but the sweet spice blend of the cinnamon and carnation anchors my nose to my wrists as I have a serious craving for cinnamon blends this season like never before making Autumn Morning a keeper and one to recommend. Embrace (A kindly kitchen witch who invites you in from the cold, feeds you pumpkin shortbread with butter, apricot preserves, and brown sugar & then sends you safely on your way. (Non-vegan butter CO2 & contains cinnamon.) One dab and I want to stay in the kindly witch's house and learn all about her locked away recipes as Embrace is a country cupboard of delights. I smell apricot preserves with a hint of orange marmalade, spiced maple syrup, buttered cookies and even the wood from a cupboard's shelf. I don't get pumpkin it's more of the dulcet apricot with hidden maple syrup and spice amplifying on me with a dry down of realistic brown sugar and butter. I have come to adore the scent of apricots and cinnamon in my hair so I will be using Embrace in my unscented argan oil and escaping to a quaint warm country house when the winds howl this upcoming winter. Haunted Hills (Juicy red apples, creamy caramel, wicked dark musk, black pepper, vetiver, and a sprinkle of baking spices. (Contains cinnamon & clove.) Just like Autumn Morning, Haunted Hills benefitted with a little patience as the strange grape note (I recall from childhood) that hit my nose the first week I received my parcel is all but gone and I smell the skin of a red mackintosh apple and the buttery caramel and woody warm undernotes of vetiver and black pepper. It's an interesting blend (I especially love the addition of the black pepper) but sadly not one of my favourites. Darkly complex but somehow not for my skin. I think I would love this in a hair product though and will be experimenting in the coming months. Women in Dresses Running From Houses (Gooey marshmallows over a roaring bonfire, heliotrope, aged patchouli, and a whisper of anise.) One of the greatest dubbed perfumes in the indie realm and my chemistry just doesn't want to play nice. My favourite parts of Women in Dresses Running From Houses are the marshmallowy heliotrope, the seductive anise and the dry down of realistic dug up dirt and the underneath of wet autumnal grass attached but alas it takes a bit to get to those elements as my chemistry latches onto the unpleasant opening that is hard to explain. I read so many favourable reviews on Women in Dresses Running From Houses but in the end, I must admit to myself, this one is not for me. Oh, bother. **please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Ensnare (Embrace's darker sister at the other end of the woods, who lures you in with the promise of maple sugar sweets then latches the door behind you. Rich dark oud, labdanum, and a line of salt at the door.) Ensnare, teach me your ways! I smell like smokey peppered maple sugar and salted butterscotch. Now, this is marvellous and I love the resins that come out to play on the dry down with the amplifying maple sugar and butterscotch. There is certainly something naughty in this with a bit of leather and an almost acidic-balsamic entwined pine which is giving all the aforementioned sweet notes something wickedly grounding and unique. Good thing I have fallen under *Ensnare'*s spell because she lasts a good 12+ hours and I'm perfectly okay with that. South Star (Sweet creamy peach, vanilla beans, liatrix, & a woody-ambrette accord, all topped off with a hint of cinnamon. (Contains cinnamon.) This one morphs a hundred different with the peach from fresh juice dribbled into vanilla batter to those peach saver candies I remember from the 90s that were extremely limited edition around Easter-tide and then back to soft somehow adult smelling dessert, but it all never churns up any hint of cat urine which my skin usually changes peach blends into. South Star is stunning and I adore the woody-spicy warmth of the cinnamon and ambrette. I believe I have finally found my perfect peach perfume and I can't wait to layer this over a dab of Alkemia's C24 and wait coyly for the results while all dolled up, hehe. Mark my words, PULP Fragrance is a house to watch! Bewitching Amber (A darker take on classic amber with labdanum, an overdose of non-gourmand vanilla, woody vetiver, pine bark, cardamom and sandalwood musk.) One of the things this shop of olfactory delights excels at is vintage-esque blends with slightly altered updates that pleases so many in a crowd and Bewitching Amber is a perfect example. There are hallmarks on a classic perfume base but the top notes and heart of the blend are tweaked just enough that it can never be confused with the scent of handbag of an older woman. On me, I'm finding labdanum "pops and fizzes" with a caramel finish and I can clearly smell that nifty effect with Bewitching Amber as my skin warms up this oil. The pine becomes more apparent as well I as sit here typing and the dry down the sandalwood takes centre stage with the romantic vanilla and classic amber. No surprise I love this perfume and recommend it. Eagle Hill Cemetery (An ivy-covered mausoleum, old paving stones, cool damp soil, a creaky iron gate, faded bouquets, & the spark of a match freshly-lit to see your way.) Another thing PULP Fragrance excels at is green notes and if you want an earthy atmospheric here's your blend. I get the photorealistic grass with dirt, flaking iron and I know it's not listed but I swear I smell old fashioned lawnmower blade oil and gasoline. My beloved grandfather used to tend hallowed grounds whilst I tagged along and would play in the grass clumps and tried not to step on anyone's face as I walked between the gravestones. Eagle Hill Cemetery smells like the real thing and continues to surprise me as it morphs in an hour to a realistic haunting floral bouquet of faded jasmine and lilies (and perhaps a stem of lilac as well?) I wasn't expecting any of this and am quite impressed! House on Widows Hill (Brandy as plummy as Roger's accent, old oak paneling, dusty thick carpets, a thread of incense & a roaring fire in the hearth.) Another atmospheric but for those looking for a good libatious twist and wanting to feel a bit like masters of the universe. You want a good brandy note, here it is and as you lose yourself in the oaky finish the promised dusty thick carpets, incense and ashes from the hearth hit the nose. Curiously a dark plum note also materializes in the long dry down that immediately makes me think of my english grandmother's kitchen during the colder months. Another keeper and one for my "to be worn when reading or watching specific historical films" corner of my collection. Cathedral of Trees (Crisp cold air, cedar tips, pine boughs, towering fir and spruce, snow-strewn forest floor, & smoke-less sacred resins of frankincense and myrrh.) In the vial, I get snapped off boughs of fir and pine needles mixed with lemony frankincense and myrrh and all I can say is, get on my skin and take me away to an enchanted forest! Frankincense and pine blends help me sleep for some unknown reason and I have been dabbing myself all over with Cathedral of Trees and sleeping soundly as the winds outside are starting to pick up. On my skin, the fir and pine rise first and then frankincense takes its place next to cheery myrrh and finally a familiar fuzziness of labdanum appears and I am one happy sleepy lady as my mind relaxes. And To All A Good Night (Sugary and gently-spiced holiday cookies fresh from the oven and drizzled with caramel, creamy egg nog spiked with coffee liqueur and sprinkled with a dash of nutmeg and cardamom, & the smooth, pale, aged wood of a well-loved rolling pin. (Allergen note: contains traces of cinnamon and clove.) Mmm! May I introduce everyone to holiday baking in a vial? Oh my, yes And To All A Good Night is a buttery, boozy medley with sweets and spice and everything nice for the holiday season. I even smell the unmistakable aromas of buttery pine aged wood, crushed nutmeg and vanilla from my great-grandfather's rolling pin I use for my seasonal baking. Now that's flipping amazing, no other indie shop has presented that note and experience. _______________________________________________________ Top 3 picks: South Star (and I ordered a full bottle), Portrait of Josette and...it's a tie between Cathedral of Trees and And To All A Good Night Thank you so much PULP Fragrance for allowing me access to these collections (and helping me find a holy grail perfume) *Reviews composed in 2021 Technically not my first romp with the ever mysterious pheromone-enhanced category of perfumes (that title goes to Alkemia Perfumes), these three vials, however, were my first venture with a little house of fragrance called Love Potion Magicakal Perfumerie. A bit of rarity in the indie realm as this shop actually has a physical storefront (located in Venice, California USA) and is the only indie company I have found that sells exclusively pheromone laced perfumes. So what brought me to these unique doors of Love Potion? Curiosity mostly! For years I have heard Pheromones were the Dark Side of perfumery and with a friend's upcoming birthday and her very specific request for "a sexy red currant perfume" well it seemed fate and I just had to try them. Here's what I thought. WARNING: Subjects that follow may get a bit (politely told) spicy. My initial order all stemmed from a search for red currants and I messaged the owner to see if she could recommend a few blends and answer some burning questions I had concerning pheromone perfumes and their effect(s). The owner was an absolute sweetheart and patiently answered all my inquiries and gave me a list for my friend and for myself. I purchased one spray vial and to my utter delight was gifted several samples that we spoke of. I only had the opportunity to quickly sniff my friend's birthday gift before wrapping it up along with her preselected sample and I kept the other three vials as my friend doesn't care for the notes that I do. Funny enough she ended up loving the sample she received versus only liking what I purchased for her so I'll mention her choice pick and her experience wearing her special scent potion. Crystal Currents (Much as the way a crystal refracts and reflects and refracts sunshine into dazzling points of illumination, so does our beautiful pheromone-enhanced perfume spray bestow a brilliant shine to your senses. Crystalline notes of white, pink and red grapefruit oils blended with juicy tangy red currant and sweetened with pretty pink sugar and soft-as-a-cloud marshmallow plus a sheer whisper of white amber, so wonderfully upbeat! For further fun and frolic, we've enhanced this lovely with our exclusive AUDACIOUS pheromone formula, an Alpha-Sexual-Social mix for women that encourages boldness and perhaps a walk on the wild side! Promotes confidence, friendliness, femininity, mood elevation and sexuality. Magickal Meanings of Ingredients (I thought this part was so nifty!): Grapefruit- Refreshes and uplifts the spirit, eases exhaustion; beauty and youth glamour. Lends an aura of "sparkle" to the wearer. Red Currant- Aids success in love affairs, and a magical representation of blood. Marshmallow Root- Fertility, happiness, creativity, increase in psychic awareness, intuition, love, protection, exorcism. Gently commanding and persuading. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness and riches. Lust inducing, wishes granted. Amber-Fertility, creativity, love, luck and riches. On my friend, she seems to amplify the sweet factors of this blend and smells like naughty fruit candy, she usually stays away from scents resembling candy but says she was pleasantly surprised and Crystal Currents certainly suits her. The red currant serves as the glowing heart of this perfume over the sugared grapefruit opening and an unexpected amber laced marshmallow is the perfect finale. Between two separate serious male companions (at different points of the year) and other acquaintances, it has been noticed that men adore this perfume and have complimented her multiple times even associating this perfume to her specifically (for extra experiments a few extra drops of Crystal Currents were dabbed in her (at separate times of the year/ different boyfriend's) cars and then placed in her hair. The results were quite positive as both men seemed more attentive and etc; we are just reporting what was observed and noticed). My friend discreetly has requested the Copulin version of Crystal Currants for her next birthday so I call this scent experiment request/gift a success. Sadly my report will be less interesting as I don't currently have a fella to play scent doctor with so my thoughts will be more on general compliments, skin chemistry morphing, and my impressions on specific notes. I'm also going to rank the samples I tried. #3- Mommy's Little Monster (At this time of the year things can get quite chaotic for all hard-working Mummies and we know they could use some assistance in taming their dear darling monsters! This is a seasonal perfume spray featuring an Autumnal blend of warm hay, tangy crisp pear- bestowing protection and good fortune- with a sturdy foundation of bamboo and teak and pretty crown of daisy and heather. We're riding to the rescue with a dose of our exclusive MOTHER'S LITTLE HELPER pheromone formula, a blend for women to help create a household of peace and calm, pleasant interactions, warmth, coziness, friendliness and helpfulness...while secretly exerting a little authority too. Magickal Meanings of Ingredients: Pear- Love, longevity and luck Hay- Friendliness, fruitfulness Daisy- Gentleness, innocence, loyalty and romance. Love, reunion and luck. Heather- Admiration and beauty; protection, especially over women and virtue. Peace, beginnings, elemental magic, wishes granted. Bamboo- Protection, hex breaking, luck and wishes, fertility, wisdom, feminine energy. Teakwood- Longevity, bonding, weathering all conditions, endurance. It remains a frustrating mystery what note exactly drowns out all the others on my skin and pokes at my senses, reminding me of a combination of green medicine and soap but my hunch is the heather as I only have one heather listed perfume (from Jorum Studio) that smells like true ground heather on me and all the others I have tried across the indie realm turn into laundry detergent soap when applied. Such a shame for my skin but an unexpected win for my deep conditioning hair treatment regiment as in my hair the promised pear and hay reign making Mommy's Little Monster a nice autumnal hair treat. #2- Flying Potion 2020 (Description summary- We've blended gorgeous creamy ylang ylang EO, sweet black licorice, marshmallow and vanilla pods, tangy grapefruit and cassis topped with a pinch of cider spices and Poof!) Magickal Meanings of Ingredients: Marshmallow Root- Fertility, happiness, creativity, increase in psychic awareness, intuition, love, protection, exorcism, Gently commanding and persuading. Ylang Ylang- Strongly sensual, attraction, attention, irresistibility, soothes marital problems. Licorice- Love, lust, fidelity, sexual potency. Vanilla- Aphrodisiac, inspires happiness, playfulness, sexual arousal, lust, vitalizing. Grapefruit- Refreshes and uplifts the spirit, eases exhaustion, beauty and youth glamour. It is highly advised to NOT go by what you think you discern from this shop's vials because your heated skin and hair hold and unlocks the true magic of these blends. Honestly, I was puzzled and thought I was possibly sent a mislabeled batch when I first opened my lovely presented parcel as the distinct slight chemical aroma I recognize from my bottle of C24 from Alkemia Perfumes wafted up and I couldn't identify clearly any accompanying notes. What a curious thing! Once applied my impression immediately changed and I raced to the laptop to toss in my basket many perfumes from the catalogue (especially when I tried Love Potion: Pink, but I'm jumping ahead of myself). Flying Potion opens bright and creamy then morphs to seductive liquorice dipped warm spices (perhaps even hidden apple?) and then dries down to this stunning realistic marshmallow vanilla cream and lingering traces of liquorice. I am weak in the presence of a good liquorice or marshmallow perfume and Flying Potion is ace and has been keeping me company on late night walks as the summer season winds down and this hits the spot for the beginning of my favourite time of the year. Now to find someone to share it with, haha. #1- Love Potion- Pink (Description summary- Combines four buttery Vanilla oils from around the globe, added to gorgeously thick Amber and Patchouli, resins, sweet Berries and Sugars galore!) Magickal Meanings of Ingredients: Vanilla- Aphrodisiac, inspires happiness, playfulness, sexual arousal, lust, vitalizing. Sugar- Attracts love, luck, sweetness, riches, lust inducing. Berries- Attraction, love inducing, stamina, vigor, draws fortunate circumstances in all areas of your life. Apricot- Love, love, love, romance, passion and feminity Amber- Fertility, love, luck, riches. Patchouli- Soothes and uplifts, sensual, sexually stimulating, lust, fertility, money. Butter- Nurturing, soothing, eases troubled relationships, Goddess energy Verbena- Mood uplifting, makes one attractive to the opposite sex, everlasting love. As much as I go weak for liquorice and marshmallow, would you believe a cotton candy/fairy floss perfume completely swept me off my feet and garnered the most compliments from work colleagues and strangers? It's all true, I smell like a pastel and peach toned Valentine with Marilyn Monroe's image glamming on the front. The notes may seem simple but that's where the true beauty of this oil lies, it catches you off guard first pulling at playful and airy elements but then transforms into this warm sophisticated buttery romantic vanilla that others around just gravitate toward and ask about. It's perfectly dubbed, it captures all the qualities when you think of the ideal shade of Pink. Projection and longevity is impressive with this fragrance as it goes on to enchant 16 hours versus Mommy's Little Monster's 6 hours and Flying Potion landing in the middle at 10 hours. The search is over, I finally found a cotton candy/fairy floss perfume I can wear without feeling like a child or it triggering bad high school memories. So the big questions would I order from Love Potion Magickal Perfumerie again and are Pheromones truly the dark side of perfumery and should be feared? A resounding yes to if I will order again and let's just say be prepared for more reviews in the coming months and I only care what I think and how they make me feel which is spectacular and confident. Love Potion® Magickal Perfumerie Ever since I stepped into the realm of Indie Fragrances one house has been repeated with an exotic and expensive flair that called from afar I was not yet prepared to venture towards...until last year when I was recommended to see the godsend to all Indie Collectors and Explorers known as "decanters"; these sweet beings offer different seasonal blends at a wide discount which allows those of us with restricted wallets and pocketbooks a chance to sample perfumes we have lusted after and finally join the excited conversation circles surrounding certain shops. This is a happily ever ending story all thanks to Crypta Obscura/KosmikFade. One Note At A Time: Koaliday (Bastet's Australian melty Vanilla Ice Cream, Crystalline Absolute, Vanilla Bean Fleck, Fried Dough accord ala Funnel Cake deliciousness, White Cinnamon and Vanilla infused Powdered Sugar) This is a bushel and a peck and a hug around the neck with exotic and warm woody cinnamon, creamy buttery vanilla and the unmistakable aroma of country-fried dough. Every note promised is there and it creates this cosy enveloping feeling of home comforts and seasonal memories that lasts an impressive 13 hours. It's marvellous and must try if you love gourmand fragrances and the deeply soothing quality of cinnamon. Ducky (Fresh Pear, Bastet's Amber Absolute, Skin Musk, Vanilla Bean Liqueur, Crimson Red Musk) This was my first dip into NAVA fragrant waters and I must say I'm impressed. Ducky is indeed fresh pears without any unnecessary soapiness and is matched beautifully with a spiked vanilla bean, warm amber and soft silkiness underneath it all. When first applied the scent amplifies for about 2 hours then dies down to this creamy vanilla pear finish that lasts 16 hours now. I must admit I was hoping to not love this and move quietly along but what can I say, NAVA has wowed me and I'm in trouble (yep, yep yep!) Llama Llama (Vanilla infused Sandalwood, Cashmere Vanilla accord, Indian Sandalwood, French Vanilla Bean and Santalum Absolute) My expectations and wishes flew too high to the sandalwood and french vanilla drenched sun this time as this blend is a masculine soapy flop on my skin. It's always the call of French Vanilla that gets me to pull that buy-now trigger. My search continues ultimately and I have learned a vital lesson that santalum combined with cashmere may be best to avoid with my chemistry. Sigh. *Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you. Uriel (Thick resin and incense of Holy Myrrh and Sandalwood) This was a surprise bonus vial found in my order and I must say this blend named after an archangel is a dreamy romantic sandalwood that is indeed "ethereal" and even "protective" in ways. Uriel was a much finer introduction to NAVA's Sandalwoods and Resin centred oils for me and I would love to try more of this house of fragrances' sandalwood perfumes. For longevity, this oil fades within 5 hours which is my only caveat as I would love to wake from a full days' sleep with this masculine leaning fragrance softly caressing my wrists and neck. Nocturne Alchemy Studios Crypta Obscura One Note At A Time: Cimetière du Père Lachaise - Paris, France (Notes: Faded lipstick, moss-covered brick, hazy morning fog, discarded petals, packed dirt, chestnut wood, distant chimney smoke) ☠This largest cemetery in France is the final resting place of several famous artists, writers and dancers. Some names you may recognize are Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan, Peter Abelard and Héloïse, Frédéric Chopin and Jim Morrison. Opened in 1804, Cimetière du Père Lachaise started off as the additional interment of Paris's deceased after the closing of the over-packed Cimetière des Saints-Innocents which is another famous cemetery that has been featured in a few pages of fiction- Anne Rice's The Vampire Lestat (this won't be the last we hear of Lestat in this long overdue review of iconic cemeteries) and Patrick Süskind's Perfume. Not to be outdone Cimetière du Père Lachaise has been mentioned in works and films such as: Victor Hugo's Les Misérables, Alexandre Dumas's The Count of Monte Cristo and The Doors. Opening the vial I'm greeted by the sensation of realistic cold air and the scent of dirty stones and dusty brick. The cold dirt encrusted stone with an roll of aged moss intensifies on the skin and a billow of ashes and smoke spreads across this dark scene. You can easily imagine yourself walking into this locale surrounded by centuries-old monuments with poetic epitaphs and fitting tributes. Nearly an hour later a distinct vintage lipstick fragrance wafts out of the lanes and pays a lovely homage to the once popular tradition of kissing Oscar Wilde's tomb. It's at this point of this atmospheric tour that I'm reminded of an unfortunate miss perfume that ended up a disaster with my chemistry- Hydromancy. Ever so slowly that medicinal induced nightmare creeps out of Cimetière du Père Lachaise and I'm still at a loss what exactly my chemistry morphs with to resemble old fashioned cough syrup on a metal spoon, the violets, the fog note? It remains a frustrating mystery. All I can end this round with is I do prefer Cimetière du Père Lachaise to Hydromancy as one will allow me more time to enjoy the nifty realistic atmospheric elements before changing over and it fades softly after a few hours versus launching into a full on assault on my poor head whilst amping to the heavens and back. Highgate Cemetery - London, England (Notes: Earl Grey tea, lavender sprigs, juniper berry, ivy, gravel, crumbling cobblestones, delicate fallen leaves & soft mittens) ☠Part of the "Magnificent Seven" located outside of central London, Highgate Cemetery opened in 1839 and has the status of being a duel nature preserve and is a popular site to pay one's last respects to several movers, thinkers and entertainers of different eras. It is also a location that is believed home to a supernatural being known as the "Highgate Vampire", this figure real or not, Highgate is where you will find tombs and markers to: John Galsworthy, Bob Hoskins, Lizzie Siddall, George Eliot, Malcolm Tierney and Henry Gray. For a fragrance inspired by the stalking grounds of a demonic vampire this blend is surprisingly uplifting, peaceful and pretty. A non-soapy earl grey tea with an additional grating of bergamot and soft buds of lavender is dominant on my skin with a background of crumbled stone and juniper sprigs. Highgate Cemetery is nothing like I was expecting (I was hoping for the inclusion of ink for a nod to all the brilliant authors and poets interned in the grounds and to be perfectly honest, a drop of blood included), however I oddly enjoy this one and I can see myself reaching for this vial in the dead of winter. On the long dry down Sixteen92's infamous textile and tactile accords appear with something resembling worn yarn mittens and warm skin. Highgate Cemetery is a cosy unobtrusive medley with drops of nature and I can understand why it was a smash hit this past autumn. Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles, California (Notes: Glamorous satin and soft feather fringe, black fig, orris, tonka, bourbon on the rocks, smoked cardamom, cold marble) ☠Even though recent rockstars such as Chris Cornell and iconic childhood voice actors as Mel Blanc reside within the sprawling 40 acres of land, this cemetery was founded in 1899 and has gone under numerous renovations and name changes. Hollywood Forever Cemetery is the current moniker and this site is loaded with Tinseltown's elite departed. I could rattle off names all day, but to save time, I'll list the names I would love to pay respects to (including Cornell and Blanc): Estelle Getty, Burt Reynolds, Lucille Bliss, Marion Davies, Judy Garland, Virginia Rappe, Mickey Rooney, Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel and Rudolph Valentino. The glitzy and elegant spirit of Old Hollywood comes through brilliantly in this blend. A celebratory fig that reads as a cranberry cocktail opens this perfume and then this soft realistic textile element slowly presents itself to take this wearer into her fantasies of time travel back to the golden era of cinema and donning a satin white floor-length gown with a feathered boa and patter of powder (if only for 6 hours). The twist ending of this scent experience is a photo-realistic smooth cold marble or ice note that hits the mid-nose reminding me this is a haunting tribute to the heyday of silver screen classics. Sixteen92 channels another bygone era for me and Claire is the undefeated Queen of Atmospherics in my book, brava! Lafayette Cemetery No 1 - New Orleans, Louisiana (Notes: White mandevilla, sooty dragon’s blood, wild datura, wrought iron gates, muddy clay, living moss, chicory root, bone dust, chalk) ☠Unlike the other cemeteries on this scent tour, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 is closed to the public due to it's unfortunate dilapidated state (from natural disasters and vandalism). It was founded in 1833 and I was not able to find a large list of any easily recognizable figures, this final resting place seems more centred around founding families of New Orleans and it was a hot spot of paranormal activity and tourists spanning back to the 1990s with the popularity of The Vampire Chronicles series and various music videos. In the vial Lafayette Cemetery No 1 presents as a cold floral to the nose. It changes on application as a distinct rusty iron aroma collides with the top white florals and a dusty chalk wafts over the senses. It's another transportative scent potion. I wouldn't call Lafayette Cemetery No 1 a true autumnal blend, it almost has a hidden humidity in it that brings to mind the end of summer and right when you can feel the first nip in the air. As time ticks on, more earthy notes appear and Sixteen92' trademark dragon's blood becomes more noticeable turning this thick (nearly soapy) floral into an almost sinister realm. In ways, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 shares similar qualities of Necromancy. Between the two perfumes, Necromancy is still my top pick. Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán - Oaxaca, Mexico (Notes: Wreaths of marigold & cockscomb, dusty cocoa, canela, sugar cube, flickering votives, honey cakes) ☠Undoubtedly the oldest cemetery on this inspired olfactory journey (the founding dates flucuate from the 18th to the late 16th century), Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is best known for it's Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations and traditions. This cultural celebration of life, death and family starts on the morning of October 31st and continues into the month of November. Offerings are made from little bells to booze and sweetened pumpkin. Somehow I think Sixteen92 has waited years to offer a scented "eulogy" to this fascinating place and the Day of the Dead as Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is everything exotic, ambient and tasty rolled into one oil. For placement of favourite perfumes within this set, Hollywood Forever Cemetery is my top choice with Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán a close second. I didn't expect to say that but hands down Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is the best marigold perfume I have found in the indie realm and I'm in awe how nice my chemistry plays with every note listed. If you love dusty peppery florals with a twist of pseudo-gourmand (the foodie notes are there but I promise you, you won't smell like a bakery) this one is a must to have. As with every oil in the Memento Mori collection, Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán smells like a specific location, holds a different feeling and you can tell it was extremely well-researched. Querida (Blood red roses, ceylon cinnamon, smouldering resins, golden amber, ethereal swirl of opium) In addition to cemeteries around the globe/ Memento Mori, Sixteen92 unveiled an Addams' Family set for Fall 2020 and I had to get my claws on Morticia's inspired fragrance. It's taken 6 months but I think I finally have this oil aged and I'm slowly falling under it's particular spell. Now I must admit, the vial wand doesn't hold the most encouraging aroma as I get paint thinner and something masculine smelling (all pinching threatening to turn into one humdinger of a headache), but once applied Querida begins to intrigue and seduce. A thick smoke mix of ancient practices appears first then the dark roses slowly reveal themselves along with a lacing of sweet opium. It's just when the realistic roses and vintage amber that Sixteen92 excels at begin to bloom and take my mind away that the full story and scene of Querida comes clear, this is that beautiful tango scene from the sequel film which made and still makes all little black hearts flutter and vow to learn to dance and never settle. Querida is spicy, exotic, dark, dangerous and full of passion. Who doesn't want to smell like that? Death By Stereo! (Night air on the boardwalk, spun sugar and cider, melted ice cream, cannabis accord, whirling tendrils of nag champa) Here's another that needed quite a bit of aging, however unlike Querida, I'm still not sure about Death By Stereo! as it's sadly forgettable. The brief opening is lovely smelling of cool fall air, spilled apple cider and sweet sticky delights then it transforms entirely into soapy incense and stays that way all night. As much as I want to love Death By Stereo! as the legion of fans who recommended this perfume, I don't think this ode to one of the most iconic and quotable vampire films is for me. I'm going to pass Death By Stereo! along to a friend. (*Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Oh What Fun! (A bustling winter gathering filled with warm wishes, mulled wine, dried winter figs, cranberry garlands, smoky tonka, vetiver, amber and a whisper of incense.) Mmm, one whiff and I knew I chose wisely with this seasonal oil. I adore the tart scent of cranberry and when added to the mulled wine and hidden pine then it's a merry party. Funny enough it could very well be a sibling fragrance to Hollywood Forever Cemetery (with the tonka, amber and refinement elements), only this is the before holiday party with bulbs flashing and Hollywood Forever is what happens after the lights go out behind the locked gates. No surprise, Oh What Fun! easily landed on my list for favourite holiday perfumes I tried this past year and just like Hollywood Forever Cemetery and Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán, I hope these perfumes all return in 2021 for an encore! Sixteen92 *Reviews composed in November 2020 It may be nearly December and there is frost on the windows, but my mind (and nose) have been enjoying a very atypical fall and winter collection of scent collages from Stone & Wit. Who knew you could find unique summertime fruit perfumes in the final throes of autumn tide. Full Transparency: I was offered these samples for an exchange of an honest review.--These are my thoughts. Longevity: Varies between 2 hours (Why Would You Make This!?) to 8 hours (with Ashara) A few words on the stickers: Seeing stickers in packages just touches on some nearly forgotten nostalgic element for me and I get very excited to add indie stickers to my work badge and computer top. Stone & Wit's stickers are excellent quality and I love the smooth matte vinyl finish that goes so well with the printed theme. Mine is still where I stuck it and hasn't slid or melted. *$0.5 from each sticker purchased will be donated to Lotus House Women and Youth Shelter. Onto the perfumes, in order of favourites choices: Turyin (Notes:Pomegranate, plums, sandalwood, gunpowder) A spread of rarely seen notes that I could bathe in. The dark delicious fruits are most dominant on me and the mineral gritty smoke of the gunpowder slowly dirties up the juicy top notes as the hours tick by. I don't smell any sandalwood which is very curious because I normally amplify any hidden creamy woodiness of sandalwood in other perfumes. Slight negative aside, I love the seductive wafts of the pomegranate and plum that catch me off guard when I turn my head and I'm going to call it, TURYIN is my favourite blend I have tried from this house of fragrance, sorry Etta you have been toppled off your throne. We Played Our Records Backwards Too Many Times (Notes: Black cherry, orchids, vetiver, coffee) This opens with creamy dreamy cherry sherbet then slowly morphs with dark coffee beans and vetiver smelling oddly like an aged record then back to soft cherry dessert! The orchids adds a hint of dusty powder to the mix and I'm absolutely thrown for a loop on this blend. Bravo! Why Would You Make This!? (Watermelon, lime, bergamot, paprika, raisins, apples, sichuan pepper) Despite the name this perfume is very wearable and still hits all the unique points of the unexpected. It's spicy, weirdly creamy and savory fruit laced. I get the wet rind of a melon, the distinct aroma of a box of sweet raisins and something smelling akin to vanilla under the warm spices. Definitely unlike anything I have in my vast collection. Ashara (Notes: Black Ink, Nilgiri Tea, White Agar and Palm Dates) This one takes several minutes to calm down from brash tea then a lovely ink from a pen and sweetness of the dates amplifes and lasts hours. The only agar I'm familiar with is for cooking and I do get saltiness from Ashara under the soft fruit and realistic ink. As it is further drying down I smell something akin to aged paper which I really enjoy. This one is a keeper. Frith (Notes: Blueberry, dandelion greens, sage, witch hazel, vetiver) First can we stop and applaud the unique choice of notes and clever homage to the book Watership Down? This isn't your everyday type of fragrance and I must admit it does turn perfumey for me in the end but the beginning is magical with the realistic bright greenery cutting through the vinegar quality of the witch hazel which I could douse myself in (I love vinegar). It's when the blueberry first begins to disappear that Frith morphs and loses that initial green magic. The final note of vetiver keeps everything from becoming soapy and adds some earthy realism back to the mix but I'm sad to say this is just missing something for me that I can't identify or it's the blueberry that is throwing me off. I think this fragrant ode to Watership Down will serve me better as a whipped soap additive in the coming months. Stone & Wit |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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