Fiction in all forms can provide the ultimate possible escape (that is why many of us deliberately seek them out) but unfortunately, I just can't seem to find that merciful departure from reality this year with any new historical novel release. I opened A Well-Behaved Woman: A Novel of the Vanderbilts desiring all the gilded trappings and recognized personalities that make the Gilded Age such a fascinating and riveting time period to lose yourself in but sadly this book couldn't decide if it wanted to be a serious examination of the era centered around one brazen and influential woman from New York Society, register as a nagging voice of comparisons of the past and present (that would break in at the most unwelcome moments) or a sentimental drawn out romance which bordered on a bodice ripper in certain chapters. Oh dear, I hate to have such a negative reaction (especially about the last point) and I understand every reader's tastes are different but I also can't help but remember that Ms Edith Wharton set the illustrious bar of fictional departure into history for this reader and scenes of romance have drastically changed ((what could have been beautifully conveyed with a lingering touch of an ungloved hand or flutter of a fan has now turned into something ugly and almost comical with pawing and grunting (alot of grunting in this novel) in every other chapter and every other book it seems)). Alright, let me put the "they don't write books like they used to" attitude aside and bring forth the positives of A Well-Behaved Woman: A Novel of the Vanderbilts. I applaud that a writer has finally given Alva Vanderbilt Belmont née Smith her time to shine in literature and brings her story to the attention of the modern audience who may have never heard of her before. She really is an interesting figure to read about and in this book, she steps off the gold and pearl encrusted pedestal and is portrayed mortal with fears and convictions. Good and bad happen throughout to this prominent figure as well to other members of the Vanderbilt line and I also must commend the author for making the huge family tree of the Vanderbilts easy to recall as each new member makes an appearance at those tragic events. Getting back in line with the positives to mention, the dialogue was believable and a few scenes were painted so delightfully vivid and captured exactly what I desired when I picked up this novel (especially the costume ball sequence). Now the characters, even though their names were easy to recall in multiple passages they sadly missed something for me and I couldn't stop shaking my head especially as figures were portrayed in a more flattering light than reality (have a gander at The Glitter and the Gold by Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan when you have a minute then tell me again about unbreakable bonds between mothers and daughters or Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt: The Story of a Daughter and a Mother in the Gilded Age by Amanda Mackenzie Stuart). I also would have loved to have found multiple breakaway scenes to other characters (Consuelo Vanderbilt, Alice Vanderbilt and Consuelo Montagu, Duchess of Manchester or THE Mrs Astor and Ward McAllister), Alva's views became repetitive and I longed to experience the other side of the guest list or gates into other's lives but no, I had to read how much Alva didn't want her husband in her bed and how attractive Oliver Belmont was then another guilty thought of conditions and comparisons. Dashes of time seemed to be another disappointment, we begin in the latter half of the 19th century and finish at beginning of 20th century but in certain chapters, I would hope we would be forgiven for being confused what year it is and not solely rely on another letter between characters. I finally have to admit this book wasn't for me, I was hoping for another beguiling carriage ride into the past that I found with other literary works (Fortune's Children: The Fall of the House of Vanderbilt by Arthur T Vanderbilt II immediately comes to mind and I highly recommend it to anyone that wants to feel like they have stepped back in time if only for a couple of hours) but alas I have yet to find a historical fiction novel that can transport my imagination completely to one of my favorite bygone ages to study, I guess my search continues and I need to start scanning the shelves again more carefully. With thanks to St. Martin's Press and NetGalley for kindly sending me an advanced copy of A Well-Behaved Woman: A Novel of the Vanderbilts Title Expected to be Released: October 16, 2018 -EGP/June 2018 Sixteen92
sixteen92.com/ Thoughts: -Adding another chapter to my book of perfume discoveries or self-realizations and this one is titled LYCANTHROPE. Joining the pantheon of treasured oils, this particular bottle allows my romantic imagination to run wild in a moonlit forest and believe me I don't want to leave. Weaving its mysterious magic on my senses and into my dreams, simply this is a fragrance that deserves the highest praise and is too good to not share. Brava Sixteen92! One scent at a time: Lycanthrope (Listed Notes: Monkshood, warm fur, tuber, elm bark, Artemisia, Galbanum, weathered rock and silver moonlight) *A special limited edition fragrance that won't return until September 13, 2019. In the bottle: Realistic RAIN DRENCHED MOSS, STONE, DAMP BARK and an impression you are being watched from the partially moonlit shadows. Applied: Whoever said Friday the 13th was unlucky obviously doesn't collect perfume oils or ever had the opportunity to come across Lycanthrope by Sixteen92 because this is a scent masterpiece and a lucky find indeed! You know an oil is exceptional when you close your eyes and are immediately swept away to another place or time and Lycanthrope is one of the most transporting bottles I currently own. Scent is suggestive (in many ways) but for me, this opens with wet stones against ancient trees and you can hear the rumble of thunder in the distance and the leaves rustling with the stirred wind. For those of us who love nothing more than staring up at the moon late at night and feeling some kind of unexplainable pull, this perfume can serve as the perfect backdrop. As this oil dries, the darkness of the notes intensify and it reminds me of The Castle of the Hill (also by Sixteen92) but Lycanthrope is strangely warmer and more inviting. There are also additional mineral and green notes that lurk within this unique fragrance which become noticeable at certain times and for some reason, I feel protected whenever I wear this. I like to think this special oil as a talisman against negative thoughts and I seek it out if I feel apprehensive or need a restful day (or night) of sleep. It really is a soothing almost pensive blend for anyone who favours enigmatic atmospherics. sixteen92.com/collections/limited-editions We all have those dark morbid topics of fascination that garner uncomfortable side looks from polite society. It can be downright mortifying to be judged in some circles but an indescribable joy to find an unexpected fellow soul who also harbours a guarded interest in the strange, warped and what has been deemed the plain unpleasant to think or speak of. Well please consider me a fellow soul if you happen to have a shelf (or three) dedicated to morbid history or probably know more tidbits on tragic legends, bizarre superstitions and insidious bygone crime cases than all may be proper for a lady to know. And if you also happen to enjoy stepping out into the modern world with the above categories of knowledge tucked away for rainy day conversations (or long dinner parties) and desire a finishing touch of the unique past to add to your everyday life, I know just the place us macabre historymagpies have been waiting and searching for... The Poisoners Guild (https://poisonersguild.com/) is the shop you need to see as this creative storefront is where "The Poisoners" (masters of scent potions and mistresses of olfactory magic from our favourite houses of fragrance) converse with the unconventional saints of this special guild to mix and blend representative forms of scents that arrive at your door in themed parcels. Imagine it, our darkest curiosities centred around the deadly and lovely herbs, toxic flowers and mysterious elements of others' purest dread serving as inspiration that we can proudly wear into the office or share as unique gifts. So prepare for one of a kind treats for the senses, wicked imaginations and dark little hearts everywhere because the Poisoners Guild is open for business! Well then, curious to know more? I know I sure was once I became aware of the splendid concept and beheld the opening page for the first time, so I ordered a few items from the guild that arrived in lightning quick time (ordered Thursday and received Monday). Even though I missed the initial launch of the first box (or kit as they are called) I was able to pick up a couple things that called to and intrigued me all the more with promises of beloved hyacinths gracing my home with their intoxicating scent composition and a gourmand-like perfume I kept seeing others rave about. I may have committed the ultimate sin of owning perfume oil which is testing it right out of the mailbox but it was well worth it and I can tell this is only the beginning of something amazing: Nicotine (Listed Notes: Oscuro Cigars, Pipe Smoke, Fresh-Cut Tobacco, Rum-Dipped Cigarillos, Cacao Shisha, Vanillic Vape Clouds.) -created by Hexennacht *I compared my jotted thoughts from when the bottle first arrived to tonight (about a two week span of time) In the bottle: A delectable almost BUTTERSCOTCH VANILLA-like blending that makes me crave toffee. It almost reminds me of a Heath bar with an edge. The tobacco is there if you take your time to search for it and a dusting of CACAO is present as well. Applied: A delicious aroma of butterscotch or toffee hits my nose at first and the tobacco slowly appears deepening the experience warming up everything along with the chocolate. At this point, Nicotine reminds me of another perfume I currently own and absolutely love with a surprisingly regal resinous quality to it. Sadly my skin chemistry causes the tempered cacao note to fade away in about 5 minutes but the other notes stay strong and this pleasant mixture of sweet and warmth continues to impress as hours later traces of vanilla linger on my skin. More of a blustery autumn day type of fragrance, I still find myself currently curling up with a good mystery novel and drifting off to eased slumber wearing this oil. Overall, Nicotine is a fine perfume choice for those of us who can't stand the disgusting suffocating chemical smell of cigarettes but only wish for scent nostalgia and adore the unmistakable aroma of real tobacco from a pipe. Spreading the knowledge: Agatha Christie's 1935 novel Three Act Tragedy (in the United States it can be found under the title: Murder in Three) is the only one of her books that nicotine plays a special deadly role. Nightshade (description: "Delicate hyacinths, a heady kick of musks and garden greens hiding a deadly secret.") -created by Moonbeams Wax Meltz Melted: Nightshade is such a brilliantly executed fragrance and I want this type of melt always present in my home. I admit I wasn't so sure at first as I could only detect a clean floral medley that was pretty but light on notes other than jasmine. As I went about to get ready for work something changed within an hour and my home was filled with an undeniably gorgeous aroma of fresh hyacinths and blooming florals that I couldn't believe all came from a mini sparkly square. Going out the door I noticed faded hints of lilac, rose (maybe even a drop of amber?) and a beckoning powdery sweetness to everything that made me wish Nightshade also came in perfume form as it is a romantic fragrance ideal for spring and early summer. Finally, it may be the magpie in me but the gold glitter against the pale green when Nightshade melts then dries is a beautiful final touch to this piece of scentart and I must have more (I foresee another type of fragrance collection beginning here). Spreading the knowledge: The Guild's own unconventional patron saint Locusta of Gaul was believed to have instructed a wife how to use Deadly Nightshade to poison an Emperor. Overall Thoughts: Ultimately this was a fantastic way to explore other indie fragrance businesses and even learn new points of trivia. I may have only had the opportunity to experience two creations but they both delightfully showcased each creator's talents and their deadly influences. Needless to say, I'm quite smitten by the Poisoners Guild and can't wait to see what other themed boxes "the poisoners" have in store (there are so many possibilities from dark history that can serve as further inspiration). BE ON THE LOOKOUT: The newest box to be unveiled by The Guild is: Ave Victoria "a collection of poisons inspired by the underworld of Victorian London". poisonersguild.com/ *Review to follow in August Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Vials: The Bottling Room Every Frozen Heart Four Fifty-One It's History. It's Poetry. Only Children Weep One Scent at a Time: The Bottling Room (Listed Notes: Sterile glass, electricity, copper, hot light bulbs, lab-grown flowers, synthetic greenery) -Inspired by Brave New World by Aldous Huxley In the vial: A puzzling collage that is reading as "Invisible CLEAN". Even after a year of trying to train my nose with over a hundred different perfume oils, The Bottling Room has me completely baffled when attempting to single out its notes (I've tried several times). It honestly just smells like a clean hospital clinic bathed in bright light. Applied: If you desire the ultimate science or medical-themed perfume or want something out of the box but completely unobtrusive The Bottling Room needs to be on your vanity. When it is applied I detect a paper-like note reminding me of chart paper attached to a clipboard. I don't get any metal or greenery as it dries, I just receive a "sterile polished glass on top of scattered paper" from this oil. As nifty and inoffensive as this perfume is, I don't think this is something I will reach for unfortunately. Please don't misunderstand it's astounding that the scent artist can create such a realistic fragrance and I'm sure someone out there will go over the moon about this beyond unique atmospheric but oddly I don't want to smell like my workplace. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Every Frozen Heart (Listed Notes: Skin musk, faded perfume, citrus blossom, wormwood, empty streets) -Inspired by Tropic of Cancer by Henry Miller In the vial: WORMWOOD and FADED then amped CITRUS PERFUME. It's a bit overwhelming and I recommend waving the applicator wand before first smelling it. After a long rest, this perfume strangely projects a "coldness" as well. How do these scentcrafters do that? Applied: Here is another where the scent medley may not be for everyone. At first, this oil triggers my sensitive head but the strong citrus perfume (reminding me of ones from High School) gradually fades to an icy pop that stays very close to my skin with the "coldness" I mentioned earlier and a hint of powder. It definitely fits into the summer realm of fragrance but again I don't think I would reach for this very often but am very grateful to have another different scent to add to my collection. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Four Fifty-One (Paper, kerosene, ash, night sky, burned flowers) -Inspired by Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury In the vial: Ah the vial I have been most anticipating but dreading at the same time as I have really bad memories of stand up kerosene heaters that were popular when I was a child (they always triggered the mother of all headaches with me and that distinct smell latched on anyone for days and I couldn't be around them without wanting to retch). Here we go, I detect...OIL LAMPS, ASH and PAPER. There is also that hidden NIGHT AIR impression Sixteen92 excels at present as well. No headaches to report at the moment, please let my skin chemistry behave. Applied: When first applied there is a wet ash with a splash of kerosene but this isn't the horrific caustic chemical scent composition that still haunts my nightmares. It smells more like old-fashioned oil kept in oil lamps (my Father, Uncles and Grandfathers were all coal miners) and it sorta reminds me of when one of them would step into the house carrying that oily dust chemical smell with them. That traditional oil lamp combination fades as it dries and I amp burnt paper, ash and the night air notes which leaves me wanting autumn more than summer. I really like this perfume and I'm happy to say not one twinge of a headache while I wear this unique fragrance. I will be reaching for Four Fifty-One at the end of summer as it gets me in the mood for chilly rainy nights and staring up into the heavens. It's History. It's Poetry. (Listed Notes: Tobacco, whisky, polished wood, typewriter ink, city sidewalks, carousel lights in the rain) -Inspired by The Catcher in the Rye by J. D. Salinger In the vial: PIPE TOBACCO and INK. I've never smelled whiskey but there is a note in the back that could be alcohol but I mostly get the shredded tobacco from a pouch with an iron accord mixture. It's a surprisingly sophisticated fragrance. Applied: I almost forgot how much I adore the scent of good tobacco as it is such a nostalgic and mysterious thing. Here is another vial I can place among my "another place and time" oils as this first transports me to the doors of the smoking room on a majestic ship during the early 20th century. It's such a gentleman's blend with a hint of caramel sweetness but is still wearable for a woman and as this dries further my imagination conjures the vision of a pant-suited authoress penning her memoirs while on the shelf her late husband's pipe sits and rain is hitting the window pane. Not your typical everyday scent but It's History. It's Poetry. is another keeper. Only Children Weep (Sweet tea, azalea, red clay, rhubarb, dry wood, cement) -Inspired by To Kill A Mockingbird by Harper Lee In the vial: Oh wow this is lovely! Right away I get the SWEET TEA with tart FRUIT and dry EARTH. I guess I saved the best perfume for last again (although the last two were unexpected keepers). Only Children Weep is summer in a vial, it's reading bright and playful. Applied: Here we have a delightful atmospheric that brings to mind a cold glass of sweet tea being reached for by a child with sticky strawberry rhubarb jam-stained hands while a thunderstorm rumbles in the distance. As this fragrance dries the dry earth (red clay) note becomes more pronounced and continues the story of a summer thunderstorm building and a gust of wind stirs the dusty ground. I can almost hear wind chimes clinking softly and the hum of hummingbirds darting among the azaleas while I smell this. Out of all the vials that were in this Banned Book Collection, Only Children Weep is the one perfume I will wear for work with no hesitancy and it is the only fragrance that lasted into the next afternoon with almost a patchouli note leaving me last to enjoy. Perhaps not this year but next summer I may pick up a 6ml bottle and I think I should research more about rhubarb noted perfumes and find another to accompany this vial in my summer cache. Combined Thoughts: For my first The Circle collection, everything definitely surprised and put my nose to the test. I guess I failed with The Bottling Room but I found myself reaching for Four-Fifty One, It's History. It's Poetry. and Only Children Weep. Those final three told curious scent stories, brought some nostalgia and captured my imagination while sadly Every Frozen Heart only gave me a headache and I don't think I will be returning to that vial (but maybe it only needs more aging). I still applaud the creative mind that blended all these fragrances with its overall dystopian/innocence lost and coming of age connection and I eagerly look forward to August when the Fall Collection is to be unveiled (I don't think dominant florals or "clean" notes are for me, I'm a lady who reaches for more of earthy noted with creepy atmosphere or wistful and gourmand blends so fingers crossed those will appear in my next box--I wonder what the fall theme will be? Dark legendary queens? Gothic novels? Devious poisons and herbs? Well whatever it is, it is bound to make me smile (I mean who doesn't love Autumn and Halloween?) sixteen92.com |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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