A cosy-type mystery that blends real events regarding the Queen of Crime with those of an imaginative modern pen. In A Different Kind of Evil (Agatha Christie, #2) Mr Wilson once again channels the essence of vintage detective fiction to create a sequel filled with suspense and bizarrely creative details that you can't help but think about the next day or recall the different types of red drops of clues that then leads to the final page. Beginning exactly where we left off in A Talent for Murder (Agatha Christie, #1), we follow the voice of the Queen of Crime as we are taken to exotic locales and presented with a room and island filled with suspects that may or may not have something to hide. Although not a stand-alone novel by any means (as many references are made to A Talent to Murder and the timeline of unfortunate tragic events are repeated quite a few times), the lack of 1920's slang (or noticeable Americanisms throughout this British murder mystery) could easily confuse the reader or have them think this novel is set in modern times and the ending is a tad over the top, still A Different Kind of Evil (Agatha Christie, #2) may hold a twist or three even for the most seasoned armchair sleuth and is one channeling story to reach for if you wish to give your little grey cells a decent workout. *With thanks to NetGalley and Atria Books who kindly sent me an advanced reader copy Also in this series: A Talent for Murder (Agatha Christie, #1) by Andrew Wilson -EGP/March 2018 Alkemia Perfumes alkemia.etsy.com Samples and Bottle: Club des Hashischins Peaches in the Summer Wind Scandal at the Savoy The Mist Becoming Rain The Spice Tree Come to Me Conjure Perfume Oil Imramma Rites of Spring Combined Thoughts: These vials have been peacefully aging and waiting for the day to be shared. Some are from limited collections, marked to be discontinued and are on sale now. One scent at a time:
Club des Hashischins (Listed Notes: African Bronze Honey, Caramelized Black Oud, Blackberry Pipe Tobacco, Labdanum, Hashish Coffee and Dawamesk *straight from the conjurers at Alkemia: "Contains no active cannabinoids", Orange Peel, Cinnamon, Clove, Cardamon, Nutmeg, Musk, and Kola Nuts) What I was hoping for and what called to me: After falling hard for my ultimate gateway scent potion known as Caveau des Innocents, I went on the hunt for any and all labdanum noted fragrances in Alkemia's amazing library of perfumes. Turns out I started exploring just at the perfect moment as the early Autumnal releases blew right into my line of curiosity and Club des Hashischins called out to me with inspiring history involved in the creation of this fragrance but also the cinnamon, clove, nutmeg appealed to my love of fall spices and finally oddly the blackberry pipe tobacco as I have been secretly hoping to stumble across a perfume with that note combination; even one my skin chemistry would hopefully amp (I'm still learning what notes bloom and wither on me). Intermission: *Being completely honest, this vial had to rest for several months as it was extremely sharp coffee and blackberry based. It was just so intense, overwhelming and I quietly placed it away thinking I possibly made a mistake. Ah but if only I would learn better patience because today of all days, I remembered this vial sat still waiting and I thought it couldn't hurt to try it one more time... In the vial: What a shame I had such a poor introduction to this vial because if only I would have waited it mellowed to CARAMEL, COFFEE and SWEET SPICE. It is such a transporting combination and you can imagine the stories that await from 1844 where some famous writers sat around indeed being masters of their universe. All positives in Club des Hashischins aside though this still makes me anxious to try on my finicky skin but I can't resist to atleast stay awhile in any realm of bitter, creative and sweet indulgences. Applied: A blast of bitter pungent coffee opens that makes me jerk my head away and think perhaps I was indeed mistaken about everything I thought good and I can't handle this perfume but then my usually difficult chemistry welcomes forward the caramel note and tempts me to stay just a little bit longer. Going about my day, the caramelized coffee (that has calmed down and smells gourmand) is still present but pleasant on this pseudo-spring day so I keep wearing it, that turns out to be an excellent decision because a distinct blackberry pipe smoke note twists my head and calls for attention as I am doing mundane housework and I notice how much it wants to impress and then softly fades to and stays with cinnamon and nutmeg mixed pipe smoke. Overall a scent experience I can see returning to again gladly. Granted I have only the tiniest dab on right now but Club des Hashischins is quite the different scene that I believe would work best on special occasions or when stepping out on those days when a little-inspired culture and creativity with scent is needed especially in the colder months. Peaches in the Summer Wind (Listed Notes: Peaches, Peach Leaves, Fresh Hay and Ash-Splint Wood Orchard Baskets.) Soon to be discontinued, try it if you are interested before it's all gone (https://www.etsy.com/listing/470878499/peaches-in-the-summer-wind-perfume-oil?ref=shop_home_active_3) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Being on the lookout for peach noted fragrances to allow my mind to wander to spring and approaching sunshine, I noticed Peaches in the Summer Wind is to be discontinued and thought I better not wait to try it. Not only did the peaches call to me but the notion this is a transitional fragrance from summer to fall. In the vial: HAY and PEACHES, it's incredibly realistic to a hay lined basket filled with dew kissed peaches. There is also an almost BUTTER note I'm picking up at times. Applied: At first, the morning misted peaches are replaced with something like mint and hay which is completely unexpected but smelling the vial again there is a very faint trace of mint lingering in the back I didn't initially notice. As it dries the peaches try valiantly to come forward but is no match for my stubborn chemistry that is amping the wood and mysterious mint note. Perhaps the peaches will prevail in the end after a long rest and be ready for the end of summer, I will wait to pass final judgement then. Scandal at the Savoy (Listed Notes: Sweet Opium Pralines, Mandarin Peel, Guaiac Wood, Tobacco, Cedar, and Oak) What called to me: This was another sample I had myself determined to try as it was listed next to recommendations based on Caveau des Innocents. The opium listed had me concerned however and I contacted the fabulous Ms Sharra at Alkemia and she explained the components were nothing to fear (no question is ever considered silly which I truly appreciate and answered in such an easy to understand manner that makes her customer service one of the best in (and outside) the world of indie perfume oils)). I can't wait to try this perfume. *Being completely honest, when this generous sample arrived last year it was absolute magic in the vial when it came to the sweeter listed and wood notes but when applied the tobacco was so overpowering (like an old ashtray) and I worried this was an embarrassing mistake. Just like Club des Hashischins it was then placed quietly away and waited patiently for one final visit... In the vial: Elegantly presented PRALINES with VANILLA TOBACCO. This is such a sophisticated gourmand fragrance. Please, of please let my skin behave and continue with all that is right with this vial. Applied: After carefully dabbing, closing my eyes and holding my breath, I slowly inched my head forward and ah bliss! It is indeed a miracle as this is now a sweet confection with refined tobacco and wood that I could seriously sniff all day with no regrets. This is another fragrance that stresses the importance and reward of patience as this is one more transporting perfume to a forgotten time and place. Even as it dries it gets better and this turns to caramel drizzled bundt cake with a sprinkling of tobacco. I apologize to all those devotees of this delicious and somehow piquant collaboration, you were right and I will wear this perfume in the colder months with no fear. The Mist Becoming Rain (Listed Notes: Rainwater, Hazel Wood, Meadow Grasses, Sage Blooms, Orris Root, Ozone, Grey Amber.) What I was hoping for and what called to me: This time I was browsing for orris root noted perfumes as I was completely entranced by my ode to everything black as black known to others as The Raven (orris root is listed among those notes). That perfume makes me feel like a dangerous seductive queen and I'm hoping The Mist Becoming Rain is an atmospheric moody regal scent for those days and nights when I keep to myself. In the vial: COLOGNE and SOAP. Perhaps this is more of a conceptual fragrance. Everyone's take on nature is different but this is not what I was hoping for. Applied: When The Mist Becoming Rain first hits my skin the ozone heralds an unexpected smile and brings to mind that calming building presence of a late summer shower that can either be muggy one moment then cooling another. This is definitely in the summer realm of fragrances as after the ozone enters an almost sassafras note (reading that has to be the sage) slowly appears. I can even smell something like split bark and earth, I can't believe I feared this...wait what? NO! Aldéhydes move in and turns this into a masculine cologne and everything that had me smiling several minutes ago is now gone. It's too clean smelling, give me back the earthy element and once again my chemistry ruins a perfectly lovely moment. With great sadness, I will have to pass The Mist Becoming Rain to a friend who loves aldéhydes and continue my search for a dark atmospheric rainstorm in a bottle to call my own. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). The Spice Tree (Listed Notes: Cardamon, Nutmeg, Rosewood, Spice Tree, Grains of Paradise, Black Mountain Cherrywood, Mossy Cypress) What I was hoping for and what called to me: The country hollows and mountains in the distance were beginning to put on one spectacular show and I had to have something woody and spice noted for my scarves. The Spice Tree called to me especially with the nutmeg listed (I can never have enough of those types of noted perfumes in my collection). *You guessed it, this was another vial that had something magnificently go wrong when I first tried it and I had to admit defeat at the moment and tuck it away. Interestingly enough I wasn't going to attempt it again but with having such unbelievable success with two other vials today, I decided The Spice Tree deserved a chance. In the vial: CINNAMON and GRAINS OF PARADISE. It isn't the vials themselves (this one, in particular, is beautifully spice noted with sweet and woody finishes) it's when they hit my skin something unfortunate happens. Alone The Spice Tree is amazing and I would love this in an oil warmer. Applied: Time absolutely helped The Spice Tree become something to recommend, it's warm variations of cinnamon and wood that does have a slight aldéhyde (soapy) quality but right before that may really disappoint me the nutmeg thankfully makes an appearance and yes I will keep this vial and wear it when the leaves change. Come to Me (Listed Notes: Candied Rose Petals, Star Jasmine, Peach Blossom, Cardamon Infused Figs, Pink Pepper, Orris Root, Mexican Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Cashmeran, White Amber, Sugar Musk, White Patchouli infused with Botanical Pheromones, lodestone, Jezebel Root, and Other Speciality Ingredients) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Watching my screens like a hawk, I dropped everything to get the early spring collection ordered from Alkemia once the new listings appeared. This particular sample calls to me not only with the mystic influence (and secret hope) but every listed note needs to come home to me. In the vial: STAR JASMINE, PEACH and CARDAMON. It's exactly what it says on the tin "a sweet and sultry perfume". With the star jasmine there is a slightly soapy quality but becoming more and more familiar with the benefits star jasmine can have in store for me (i.e. out of this time and place powder), this will be something else once it ages for a few months but I can't wait that long and must try it on. Applied: ...Come to Me reminds me of another masterwork from Alkemia and it took me a few careful sniffs to recall one of my first sample vials from this house of fragrance and I think those who have been scrambling or searching for Lettre d'Amour better quickly get acquainted with Come to Me because this is sure to impress and who knows if it will last the season. Instead of parchment, ink and neroli orange the familiar star jasmine, roses and white amber are warmed in this scent potion by cardamon, orris root, pink pepper and vanilla ultimately becoming an exotic sister fragrance that turns heads. Where Lettre d'Amour was innocent and youthful in ways, Come to Me weaves an entirely different spell that is still soft, feminine but with a wanton secret waiting to be shared. The more I wear this vial, the more I'm thinking I need this conjure oil in my perfume arsenal but time will tell as I'm trying to be good with my pocketbook right now...then again...I'll wait to fully decide when that star jasmine turns to gorgeous powder on me which should be by early June. Imramma (Salt Water, French Lavender, Bayberry, Ambrette Seed, Cedar Tips, Wild Beachgrass, Alder, Pink Yarrow, Juniper, and Irish Moss Seaweed) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Anyone that knows me wouldn't be surprised I gave whoop of delight when I saw Imramma listed because if given the chance I would hop a plane right now to travel to Europe (and probably never come back) and Ireland is definitely on my list to see. Given the inspiration, for this perfume and the lavender and bayberry listed, I must bring home Imramma. In the vial: Ever wish you could seriously just step into a vial or bottle and fully experience the concept, as you can easily imagine the sounds and sights of a presented theme? No? Then you need to get a sample of Imramma because this will change your thinking of how perfume oils involve your senses and imagination. This is like standing on a grassy cliff with the ancient salty sea all around you or what I would think from all the pictures I have seen of oceans and cliff tops. Once again, I need to just leave and travel (someday). Applied: I must say that Imramma plays perfectly into its inspiration, it's a salty aquatic that has a tome of stories of notes to share not just with women but men also as this could be worn by anyone. On me, the lavender, juniper and saltwater stand out the most (with something like lime also) and it's not as romantic to my nose as The Wild Atlantic Way (full thoughts on that relaxing love letter to the senses coming in April) that has a rainy vale and ancient forest impression but Imramma nonetheless grabs my attention and allows me to daydream of bracing moonlit walks along the beach and adventure and exploration. Just lovely and I will keep this vial for when I read about different seafaring topics or legends and place it on my list to seriously consider getting a full bottle of later. Rites of Spring (Listed Notes: Daffodils, Crocus, Forsythia, Snow Drops, Hyacinths, and Linden Blossoms) What I was hoping for and what called to me: The fragrance was my first attempt to capture memories in a perfume oil (Eastertime at my beloved grandparents' house) and I thought I better not pass this opportunity up as Rites of Spring was being discontinued. The hyacinth, crocus, forsythia and daffodil list notes called to me and promised so much. Intermission: *When Rites of Spring first arrived it smelled like hair products and with a heavy heart, I placed it away believing the nostalgic scent collage I desperately desired only existed in my memories. It has been almost a year since I purchased this bottle and I'm anxious to see if magic happened and aging benefited this fragrance and my opinion. In the bottle/Applied: *I have bloomed hyacinths currently on my kitchen table and compared the greenness and floral aspects. I also have really come to appreciate roller ball bottles on my perfume oils as I cannot master the art of applying drop style bottles without making a big mess. Aging definitely helped tone down the sharp conditioner and hairspray scent that leapt out at me almost a year ago from Rites of Spring. It's still not what I wanted sadly but this is a very fresh note mosaic that is undoubtedly the season of spring through and through. Comparing a real hyacinth to the bottle, it seems that note is hidden. I want to say something more citrus like in the bottle is currently rising above anything else along with an unlisted aquatic note. **Meant to apply one tiny drop and ended up with a huge drop that is dribbling down: I'm really trying to be optimistic and allowing my mind to wander...I'm getting freshly opened daffodils swaying after a gentle late March to April shower. It is actually very pretty and I know tulips aren't listed but I swear this smells like damp tulips alongside daffodils. It is at this point as I'm beginning to like this perfume that an unknown note lurking underneath takes over making this expensive laundry soap/dryer sheets to my nose and it doesn't change as Rites of Spring slowly dries. Believe it or not, this was a good scent experiment as I can definitely vouch for the power of aging these oils and I have come to the realization that without a doubt I prefer the atmospheric realm of fragrances versus conceptual when it comes to nature. Finally, I also think I will begin saving up for a custom blend and have my childhood Easter memories captured. I know it can be done. As for Rites of Spring, it is destined to go to a friend who has fallen in love with it and I'm always happy to introduce someone new to the fascinatingly addictive (and sometimes slightly heartbreaking) world of perfume oils. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). alkemia.etsy.com "I have heard horrid gossip about a young woman in Duncarrick." Historic pastoral landscapes can hold so much beauty and new ventures but also so many buried secrets and doubt as Inspector Ian Rutledge will soon discover in his fourth return to readers vivid and racing imaginations. Sent to investigate the disappearance of a wayward heiress and any possible connection to a body found in the remote mountains of Scotland, Rutledge travels through mists and painful memories as he tries to solve a crime and regain order of his life after The Great War that has left its mark. It's another race against the clock as the Inspector must confront ugly rumours and try to wrestle some type of sanity from his personal demons that stay in the forefront of his mind and even stay at his shoulder in the form of the shade of Corporal Hamish MacLeod who is none to silent on his own front and acts as Rutledge's conscience but also his worst critic. It's usually all in a day (or an extended weekend's) work for our favourite charming Inspector who knows how to ask the right questions but what if those same inquiries are ones that can lead an innocent to the gallows or end with a marksman's crosshairs ready and centred. Well, that certainly changes things, doesn't it? For this reader, there is no finer continued story when I need a post-WWI fictional escape than this series and Legacy of the Dead (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #4) ranks high within my favourites of this collection of mysteries. I may be only on the fourth installment but I can't wait to sit down with the rest and follow the Inspector's travels. The duo writing team of mother and son that pen these mysteries excel at painting locations and yes I have a map saved and ready to be travelled when I finally get to go to the UK. The small towns and villages that actually exist are ones I would dearly love to see and perhaps while I'm there I could sit a spell at the bed and breakfasts and fantasize what happens in these cliffhanger tales as just like in the rest of the books, Legacy of the Dead abruptly ends at the height of the drama that has been building for chapters (some things are answered but there are still pesky strands that remain). In a way that doesn't bother me (the looping slow beginning was more frustrating) but I can see where that may annoy new readers. Still, this was one for my shelves and if you have been looking for a series you would hate to see brought to the small screen (because you know they will just muck it up and pour frustrating modern expectations all over these clever books) then take some time and get acquainted with or form your own opinion on Inspector Ian Rutledge. You may find he just strides into your thoughts and comfortably stays there for days after the final page. I don't know about you but that's all I could ask for. -purchased and read on kindle Books in this series: Cold Comfort (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #0.5) by Charles Todd A Guid Solider (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #0.6) by Charles Todd A Test of Wills (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #1) by Charles Todd Wings of Fire (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #2) by Charles Todd *Search the Dark (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #3) by Charles Todd Legacy of the Dead (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #4) by Charles Todd Watchers of Time (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #5) by Charles Todd A Fearsome Doubt (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #6) by Charles Todd A Cold Treachery (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #7) by Charles Todd A Long Shadow (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #8) by Charles Todd A False Mirror (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #9) by Charles Todd A Pale Horse (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #10) by Charles Todd A Matter of Justice (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #11) by Charles Todd The Red Door (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #12) by Charles Todd The Kidnapping (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #12.5) by Charles Todd A Lonely Death (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #13) by Charles Todd The Confession (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #14) by Charles Todd Proof of Guilt (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #15) by Charles Todd Hunting Shadows (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #16) by Charles Todd Cold Comfort (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #16.5) by Charles Todd A Fine Summer’s Day (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #17) by Charles Todd No Shred of Evidence (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #18) by Charles Todd Racing the Devil (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #19) by Charles Todd The Piper (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #19.5) by Charles Todd The Gatekeeper (Inspector Ian Rutledge, #20) by Charles Todd -EGP/February 2018 Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Combined Thoughts: After going from a golden Lannisteresque bombshell (or should I say wildfire?) to accidental brassy Tully and back over a span of several months, my hair needed some serious love and attention as it was dry, split ended and painfully knotting from the broken off ends. I am not a vain lady but when it comes to my locks, I can be let us just say "a little difficult and hard to please" and many hear me roar (okay I'm done promise). So suffice it to say, not any product or treatment will do. I must search out the best and I believe I finally found just that with my recent discovery of Sixteen92 and the SuperNatural Hair Serum. When I started As The Final Page Turns, I never thought I would be reviewing hair serum but dear readers this hair elixir works (it does wonders on my split ends not to mention frizz) smells absolutely divine, is a pampering gift that is too good not to share and reminds me of the lost past of harnessing elements from nature to heal, restore and improve all it touches. Having super long curly hair, a strange assortment of homemade concoctions (ever try Mayonnaise or vodka on your head? Not exactly a scent combination you want to walk around with) and ridiculously expensive nasty commercial products on my head over the years that just sat there with itching or a horrid chemical smell that lingered for days and left their marks on my delicate skin. Those days are thankfully over as my morning routine now consists of brushing out and dampening my tresses to receive 3 to 4 drops (paying special attention to the ends) from a carefully selected bottle (that corresponds and instantly lifts any dark mood and eases my mind after chaotic work nights). The softness and otherworldly shine that shows in the vanity mirror are unreal and scent that follows me to eased slumber is something I can never be without again (Brava and thank you Sixteen92). One scent at a time:
Frosted Gingerbread *from the 2017 Winter 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Warm gingerbread cookies with sugared vanilla frosting) In the bottle and impressions: In the bottle, this is buttery gingerbread and when applied the home baked quality amplifies with an almost boozy note that you can't help but inhale (I've been caught quite a few times just sitting at my computer losing all track of time just enjoying the warm comforting scent that stays on my long braid). You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! *from the 2017 Holiday Collection (Listed Notes: Spiced cocoa, firewood, bayberry, warm shortbread, ovaltine, buttered rum, deep snow) In the bottle and impressions: In the bottle, this is malted chocolate that is perfect to combat the stubborn blustery winds and ice that just won't go away. When ran through my curls this turns to chocolate shortbread with hints of bayberry and chimney smoke. I hope this fragrance comes back for the special seasonal releases or will be found listed in the 2019 Resurrection sale. Red Velvet Hot Chocolate *from the 2018 Resurrection Sale (Listed Notes: Dark chocolate, milk chocolate, red velvet cake accord, buttermilk whipped cream) In the bottle and impressions: This was a long-awaited treat and was totally worth the wait. In the bottle, gooey caramel and cocoa dusted cream cheese completely not what I was expecting but how could I not like this. When applied, oh that is when the scent magic begins as this morphs from mid to dark cocoa to luscious buttered rum. I guess this innocent hot chocolate has some extra ingredients and I love it even more for that. sixteen92.com Sixteen92
sixteen92.com/ Full Bottle: The Bell Witch Hair Serum: *You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! Vials: Salem *Mercy Lewis Bruise Violet *Telepathy I Saw Goody Proctor with the Devil One scent at a time: The Bell Witch *from the Fall Pt. 2 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Sweet cider barrels, orchard wood, blond tobacco leaf, cave and forest moss, glowing pumpkin, dry leaves, turned earth) What I was hoping for and what called to me: So here's a question: How many pumpkin or apple perfumes does one need? Answer: As many as she pleases. I can't get enough of those notes which is odd because I can only get my precious pumpkin scent potions to have any longevity while wearing them in my hair and then I can expect to smell like blessed pie, cake or a pumpkin patches for days. Apple notes fair better on my skin but again it wears better when I run a little through my curls. So why would I want to possibly set myself up for sorrow again? Because it's a fragrance based on THE BELL WITCH of course and the moss, dry leaves and turned earth are calling to me in the worst way and I can't ignore it. This perfume listing won't let me turn away from the screen. In the bottle: CIDER, TOBACCO and EARTH (Patchouli). Add another to the gourmand autumn cache, this is a savory fragrance it's simple yet perfectly strange. Applied: This scent takes some time to sneak up on you, at first it's pale cider with rustling leaves but as this dries I do get a little dirt covered pumpkin (like you lifted a pumpkin from the ground and the earth is lightly attached to the bottom as you carry it) with a bit of spice. It's not what you may expect but I'm finding Sixteen92 loves to pull the unexpected (but you MUST be patient to enjoy what can be in store), The Bell Witch borders between atmospheric with the earthy notes but also gourmand with an apple cider note so realistic that you look around for a jug then remember it's you that smells so delicious and familiar. On me, this stays very close to the skin as it dries further and then dies down to nothing just tobacco which is more masculine than I feel comfortable with (curses) and spits of spice and nature (which saves this). Perhaps this will age in time to cast a unique spell by October, I really want to love this (and I WILL wait for as long as it takes)! (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Salem *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Damp leaves, church incense, Italian leather (*animal-friendly), dry birch woods, clove bud absolute, bonfire smoke) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Anyone that knows me wouldn't be surprised I was drawn to a perfume called Salem as I have quite the collection of dark history on my reading shelves, the subject of the 1692 Salem Witch Trials has a powerful fascinating pull all its own that has ensnared me since I was a child (who couldn't put her hand down when we finally got to learn about Salem so long ago; my poor teachers) and I need this fragrance. Everything about this is calling my name. In the vial: LEATHER, CLOVE and SMOKE. This is such a commanding scent combination, I'm a little afraid of it... but at the same time intrigued. Applied: Salem is listed as a unisex fragrance but I would be extremely interested to smell this on a man (and stay at his side or lean in more than may be proper for a lady to do so). This is a curious fragrance that is being reigned over at the moment by smoke and leather. It's not for the faint of heart and I can see why this was moved to the general catalogue, it's so different you don't know why you like this and again that doubt comes back but as this dries you are only more inclined to stay for a little bit longer as the dead leaves comes out with the incense (and some spiced smoke) to see how this plays out. *Mercy Lewis *from the Salem Collection (Listed Notes: Heliotrope, honeyed tea, rosehips, sugared almond, creamy sandalwood, milky vanilla) (To be a multi-feature article in the near future, if you need a honeyed transitional perfume for spring- look no further.) Bruise Violet *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Red lipstick accord, dusting powder, white iris, violet leaf, Damascus & Bulgarian rose, red grapefruit zest) *this was a bonus sample that appeared in my first order (thank you so much Claire) and was the winner of the 2017 Art + Olfaction Awards - Artisan. In the vial: LIPSTICK ACCORD, GRAPEFRUIT, ROSES and LEATHER? This scent medley dances between sophisticated and scandalous with an almost boozy note pressing everything listed above together. Applied: Absolutely there is something boozy in this (even smoky) but also something very Old Hollywood Glam about it as well (I keep envisioning a stunning starlet from that era who is no stranger to scandal in the tabloids sitting at her dressing vanity expertly repairing her smeared mascara and red lipstick while a few empty and full martini glasses are near at hand). The roses, dusting powder with violet (perhaps even a drop of plum?) and lipstick tempt my nose to linger but a tiny dab goes a long way and I'm not sure where I would wear this. I still like this perfume oddly, that vintage lipstick accord is simply gorgeous (absolutely realistic) so yes, I will keep Bruise Violet. *Telepathy *from the Winter 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Winter narcissus, tonka bean, immortelle flower, sleet, ozone, white amber) *(To be a multi-feature article and full bottle purchase in the near future, a haunting chilled winter floral fragrance that has spring just waiting underneath.) I Saw Goody Proctor with the Devil *from the Salem Collection (Listed Notes: Dragon’s Blood, Champaka Flower, Exotic Spices, Ancient Spellbooks, and a Smouldering Cauldron) What I was hoping for and what called to me: There's no denying it the ancient spellbooks, exotic spices and smouldering cauldron notes listed had to come home to me. I'm hoping for a dark gloomy scent for windy rainy days that I love more than anything else in September to early November. In the vial: DRAGON'S BLOOD and METAL. I'm getting that "rosy and tidy" scent from Baba Yaga (with perhaps more black smoke in the background) and I'm loving what I can smell right now. Applied: It took me forever to figure out what a certain note was that amped on my skin and reminded me of powdery bubbles from a wand and I believe it is dragon's blood. Just like in Baba Yaga (which helps me fall asleep after long nights at work and have the most pleasant vivid dreams) I Saw Goody Proctor with the Devil opens with that "rosy and tidy" note combination but has a sharp metal note and spice thrown in. I also detect leather (sadly no ancient paper though). I like this but in comparing it to Baba Yaga which smells very similar I'll take my Bone Mother over Goody any morning but I will wear this some cold thunderstorm filled night this October. *SuperNatural Hair Serum-Holiday 2017 Collection (You'll Shoot Your Eye Out!)- soon to be a feature post (just been waiting for my Resurrection Sale order to appear in my mailbox which should be next week), it's absolutely divine and so aptly named as this magical hair elixir brings the otherworldly shine, scent and softness to my tresses. On that note: Speaking of waiting for parcels, can you guess what I just ordered and what could have possibly called to me? Alkemia Perfumes alkemia.etsy.com/ Full Bottles: Yule Rose *Queen of Hearts Samples: Salomé Crown of Success The Golden Bough Ghost Fire Paradise Beauty Like the Night Enigma Vamp Elixir of Aphrodite Luminae Blue Ridge Skyline Dark Angels Lunar New Year (The Year of the Dog 2018) *scent preview simply titled at the moment "Gorse" *scent preview simply titled at the moment "Hyacinth" Combined Thoughts: These vials and bottles have been peacefully aging and waiting for the day to be shared. Some are from limited collections, marked to be discontinued, soon to be released or are on sale now. One scent at a time: Yule Rose (Listed Notes: Roses, Balsam Fir, Frankincense, and Myrrh) What I was hoping for and what called to me: So those following my simple (and sometimes obsessive thoughts) about books and the world of perfume oils will recognize Yule Rose as THE perfume I had to find last year. All the notes called to me and after falling in love with the about 4 hour plus mark on Winter Torchsong (that beautifully displayed the timeless romance of rose, balsam and amber), I absolutely needed to add Yule Rose to my collection. After making up my mind and finally getting a couple minutes to browse Alkemia's soon-to-be discontinued shelf, all the bottles were claimed. I also found it listed a few days later on The Soap Box Company and of course real life called me away just long enough for those bottles to disappear off the screen as well. Finding that option closed, I thought just maybe one bottle still existed waiting in the back room of Alkemia's magical scent workshop so I contacted the fabulous Ms Sharra at Alkemia and enquired if one bottle remained. Turns out it doesn't hurt to ask because yes there was and she sent me this and a few surprises (Thank you so much Sharra!). In the bottle: Romantic ROSES and BALSAM, exactly what I have been anticipating and envisioning for so long that just harkens back to forgotten traditions and is a scent to remember. Applied: Almost smoky rose with balsam entwined so expertly in the accompanying notes. The myrrh lends a faint sweetness to everything and as this dries the resins appear more turning the roses slightly powdery. I didn't realise how much roses love my chemistry and because of that, as this dries further it morphs with more floral reigning over the bottle. I have a feeling this is going to be one of my favourites after a long rest. I can't wait to show this fragrance off (now if only I had somewhere deserving to go, something to work on for 2018). *Queen of Hearts (Listed Notes: Brandied Black Cherry and Praline Tarts) *To be a multiple-feature article in the near future for spring (such a close your eyes and let the winter blues melt away type of fragrance that is sure to gather admirers.) Salomé (Listed Notes: Magnolia, Queen of the Night, Black Grapes, Dark Plums, Skin Musk, Cognac, Bitter Orange, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Mysore Sandalwood, Vetiver, Cedar, Red Oud and Botanical Pheromones.) *this was a surprise vial that I received along with Yule Rose- thank you so much Alkemia! In the vial: This is such a unique scent collage, I get GRASS, MINERAL, sweet FRUIT and even a dusting of ladies POWDER. What an intriguing fragrance. Applied: I have worn this several times since I received this generous sample and each time I find something more I like about it and this is going on the list to purchase a full-sized bottle of as soon as the vial is empty. I won't deny it, I feel like such an alluring exotic charmer when I wear this. It lasts long into the next day and I'm finding more and more my chemistry amps plum notes and that seems to give Salomé some innocence but there is also a deep seductive quality that keeps me coming back with the sandalwood, vanilla and those pheromones. First Haunted & Bewitched now Salomé (there is something to these pheromones I need to explore as I do get unexpected positive reactions and comments when wearing these types of fragrances). That's it, I'm purchasing that C24 and going to have the time of life this year. Crown of Success (Listed Notes: Bay, Frankincense, Cinnamon, other spices and ancient secrets) *this "scent preview" vial was an incredibly generous surprise that appeared in my one order- Alkemia you are the best! In the vial: Delicious though mysterious spices that smell warm but there is also something cold noted in this. What a great blend. Applied: This is a little delectable and a promising perfume. Right away I get the spices but there is that "coldness" I noticed before that swirls with a herbal background. As this dries my chemistry turns this into buttery cinnamon oatmeal that is both comforting and seems to be a crowd-pleaser as I was asked several times if I had cookies on our side of the wall at work. This would be my ideal perfume for fall and be heaven mixed with Pumpkin Strumpet or a single note of rose....and all the bottles are gone (I really need to hit the BUY NOW button when I find something I like, hopefully, this comes back in stock in July). The Golden Bough (Listed Notes: Golden Saffron, Aged Cashmere Wood, Honeybush, Smoked Ambrette Seed, and 5 year aged Lebanese "Cedar of the Gods) What I was hoping for and what called to me: So all these notes are new to me and since I'm having such unbelievable luck with scents out of my comfort range, I need to try this. Saffron is said to be an exotic seductive scent all its own and I have no idea how this going to smell on me. The only note I'm concerned about is the cedar that can turn wet pocket pet bedding on me but I'm willing to explore. In the vial: Exposed WOOD, HONEY and Sweet PEPPER. Applied: *I'm sorry I had every intention to fully review this seasonal release (as this vial started out so pleasing reminding me of a sweeter version of Gifts of the Magi which I absolutely love) but I don't think saffron or "cedar of the gods" is for me. For some reason the cedar amps to headache-inducing levels and there is something so incredibly sweet in this, my nose and head can't cope. Perhaps this vial needs more aging. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Ghost Fire (Listed Notes: Ambre Blanc) What I was hoping to find and what called to me: Ghost Fire has been on my list to try for quite some time as this is a starred recommendation I keep noticing from other perfume oil enthusiasts. I have fallen in love with Alkemia's various ambers so I can't wait for this to join my collection. In the vial: VANILLA and sugary crusted AMBER. Very lovely and I can see why this is so popular. Applied: I'm sometimes worried my fragrances lean toward certain dreaded realms and are doomed to be enjoyed solely by myself in my home (the modern world just doesn't appreciate or understand some of my treasures) but Ghost Fire borders the middle thankfully. It's sweet almost coconut noted and there is a drop of something aquatic that pushes this more in the summer cache of gourmands. It's a safe scent that I think would be nice for the workplace or a leisurely sunny outing. This could also layer nicely with some type of floral. The more this is aging I like this and a little dab goes a long way on me. Paradise (Listed Notes: Young Coconut, Madagascar Vanilla with Monoi Tiare) *This vial was actually a part of a friend's order who I finally got to join the perfume oil party. When this arrived I couldn't resist testing this to you know make sure it travelled well. In the vial: Sweet COCONUT but it also reminds me of BANANA with VANILLA swirled over. Yes, I think my friend is going to love this. Applied (by splash or "tap the perfume wand method"): Creamy shea butter makes an entrance then this turns to luscious vanilla buttercream icing on me. Oh wow, I'm almost tempted to keep this. Hopefully, she lets me borrow this sometime. I have a few preferred notes that amp and am elated vanilla is one of them. This is such a wonderful warm weather fragrance that would be great for layering. Beauty Like the Night (Listed Notes: Pear, Orange, Grapefruit Blossoms, Red Rooibos Tea, Dianthus, Saffron, Spicebush and White Amber.) What I was hoping for and what called to me: I think I'm officially hooked when I see a new fragrance collection on my screen and my pulse begins to race and I vow to skip late night food runs but also remind those around me that they were "meaning to try a certain house of fragrance". That may sound silly but so it goes with this next order. When I saw the early February collection released from Alkemia I dropped everything to get this purchased. The pear and white amber listed in Beauty Like the Night is calling to me and reading dianthus is supposedly peppery scented. All things I can't wait to try. In the vial: CITRUS with AMBER very pretty. Hopefully, the orange sticks around and the pear comes out more *fingers crossed* Applied: This is such a romantic conceptual scent. It opens with the citrus and amber then changes softly with a powdery expensive vintage quality that I love having a part of my growing collection. The description has this as "Specially blended to morph like the soft transition of twilight into night" absolutely I get this the citrus being a fading sunset and the powdery finish as a star-dusted sky. This one is going on the list for later bottle purchase, undoubtedly lovely and unique. Enigma (description: Iso Super E Aroma Molecule - Anti-Perfume) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Enigma sounds so out of the box I must try this. I have no idea what to expect but I know I'm in good hands with Alkemia. In the vial: CEDAR and AMBER, I'm not going to lie this smells a tad masculine and I am nervous but excited. I did some extra research on Anti-Perfumes but still have no idea what this will do on my skin. The puzzling mystery awaits! Applied: At first Enigma really has no scent but I can detect a dry amber and if I press my nose to my wrist I can pick up vanilla. How bizarre. Letting this dry and asking a work colleague what they think, I'm told I smell like expensive sachets. I guess this scent is subjective because I smell dried wood, warmed skin and vanilla. A little goes a long way. I would be very interested to smell this on a man as the notes lean toward masculine but still have a hidden side. Vamp (Listed Notes: Opium Incense, Labdanum, Tonka, Balsam, Sueded Leather * animal-friendly, and Black Musk) What I was hoping for and what called to me: This was another completely out of my comfort range experiment. I'm slowly realizing how much I lean toward vintage blends and Vamp is said to be an ode to the scandalous 1920's and the infamous flapper. Perhaps some gin strapped to silk stockings? Or a unexpected bubble of champagne or two will be found in this vial? In the vial: POWDER, BALSAM and AMBER, this smells so familiar like something from my childhood... that's it! My beloved Baba had a tiny glass etched bottle that smelled like this that she would only wear for the most elegant occasions (she still allowed me to play with that bottle though, she was a one of a kind lady). Applied: At first this is a bit overwhelming but as this dries my goodness this is gorgeous and oh what it would have been like to live in this glamorous era Vamp captures! That powder note (I didn't realize how many "powder themed" perfume vials I have now and I must have more) is just out of this time and the balsam with tonka and something is lending extra mystery (the musk?) I love how Alkemia's perfume oils tell a story and Vamp belongs in an art deco themed painting I know very well that exhibits a classy party set in the 1920's complete with a piano player entertaining the bedecked dancers. I will keep this and hope for a chance to show it off. I must remember to wear my long pearls and don red when I go out for a night on the town with this seductive number. Elixir of Aphrodite (Listed Notes: Persian Apricots, Orange Blossom Honey, Peach and Plum Blossoms, Mimosa, White Star Jasmine, Ambrette, Guaiac Wood and Vanilla Musk) What I was hoping for and what called to me: I don't know about anyone else but I was ready for winter to go away after the first week and am plain sick of seeing snow and dangerous ice. I need to immerse myself in heavy drenched fruit fragrances that remind me of brighter days and coming spring. Browsing for vials to bring home, Elixir of Aphrodite is calling to me with the apricots, honey, peach, mimosa, jasmine and vanilla. It sounds just perfect to lift my current mood. In the vial: PEACH, APRICOTS and VANILLA very nice and uplifting. It almost smells like peach rings candy but there is something that is elevating it to unexpected levels. I need to wear this now. Applied: Apricots and honey open the clouds at first and the peach with plum and jasmine turns this into a sweet smile-worthy fragrance. As this dries this fades to stay like an alluring secret close to my skin. When I'm running around on the floor though, I get decadent wisps of this bright enamouring scent and love the positive effect it has on me. This was exactly what I was looking for as I think: only so much more time of cold blustery winter to endure (12 more days!) Luminae (description: "is designed to work in alchemy with feminine skin chemistry to create a luminescently sensual glow") What called to me: With a description like that I MUST TRY THIS. In the vial: VANILLA, lightly sugared AMBER and even a hint of BUTTER. It reminds me of Ghost Fire (*had to grab the other vial and compare: YES similar but Luminae is less sugar noted and the pat of butter I detect makes me think this is going to morph better than Ghost Fire with my chemistry. To be honest, in the vials I prefer Luminae right now) Applied: ...Oh my this is lovely, Alkemia has done it again. This opens with slightly sweet vanilla butter that is somehow not foody then as it dries the pale warm sweetness pulses and "flickers", I can't explain how nifty this scent is. It is such a fascinating feminine fragrance that would be ideal for the workplace but also going out. All I can think of right now is "candlelight butter" and getting a bottle when the vial runs out (hope this becomes a permanent item in Alkemia's catalogue). Blue Ridge Skyline (Listed Notes: Paperwhite Narcissus, Purple Hyacinth, Bluebells, Spring Daffodils, Tulips, Tea Roses, Lemon Blossom, Sweet Pepperbush, Fresh Greens, Hay, Earth, White Patchouli and Green Tea) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Certain florals hold a special place in my heart as they can be placed among cherished memories and I have the current opportunity to go on the hunt for a perfume that captures all my favourites in anticipation for spring. It may sound simple but finding exactly what I'm searching for is not easy as my chemistry seems to amp the back notes I barely detect in the vials or bottles. Here's to hoping Blue Ridge Skyline is an unexpected winner as it is only missing lilacs and English lavender to contain an ideal dream list of notes. In the vial: Aquatic GREENS and MINT TEA. Not exactly what I was thinking but it is definitely in the spring realm. Applied: This starts out so promising as I immediately get my wished-for hyacinth and sun-touched florals that has a unique twist coming from the light lemon draped green tea, which may be coming out a little more than I would want but I'm liking this right now. As this dries the green tea sans the lemon is overtaking the gorgeous hyacinth and the other spring florals turning this to an almost aldehyde combination (which is odd that this also has patchouli listed and I can't detect it at all) that is disappointing. I still have my hopes so keeping Blue Ridge Skyline on as it's changing again giving off a distinct tea rose fragrance but again what I begin to enjoy the green tea invades and ...sometimes I really despise my skin chemistry. I don't know if I would wear this often but perhaps the florals will come out more and strengthen as this ages. **please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Dark Angels (Listed Notes: Musk Melon, Berries, Vanilla Heliotrope, Caramelized Black Fig, Black Opium, Black Vanilla and Leather *animal-friendly). What I was hoping for and what called to me: I noticed Dark Angels is marked to be discontinued and for some reason I was thinking this may be a darker winter version of Echoed Ecstasy (which I can't get enough of and will never be without, if you haven't tried that Gatsbyesque bubbly wonder yet please do!) Everything in Dark Angels is calling to me. *I know it is off topic but can I please divert everyone's attention to the marvellous aesthetic labelling that Alkemia places on their sample vials (and bottles) that heralds what you are about to experience. Dark Angels's is particularly appropriate to my tastes and if I can go by the style on the vial then this is a little gothic but ancient in its creation and scent design. Okay side note over let's carefully open this sample. In the vial: MELON, CARAMEL and VANILLA. It's a surprising gourmand selection that could be placed in between Summer and Fall. Applied: This begins with a bewitching ripe melon that is not like the effervescent quality found in Echoed Ecstasy but is more "earthy" (perhaps a drop of patchouli lurks in this or maybe that's the black notes?) As it dries that caramelized fig begins to show with the leather and this perfume is so appropriately named as this goes from pure and radiant to beautifully provocatively dark. The more I'm sitting here, the more Dark Angels is tempting me to purchase a full bottle but there are one or two things holding me back. The first is: testing this vial several times since receiving it I get a cucumber note that accompanies the melon (perhaps it's only my imagination I detect it but sorry a certain bath and body shop ruined that note for me forever and it has joined my disappointing (though thankfully short list) of death notes that I can't stand on or around me (I can't even be in the same room with the real thing when it is being sliced)). The second is I must be honest with myself and although this perfume is different it isn't what I was looking for and I need to just be happy with having the vial. Lunar New Year (Year of the Dog 2018) (Listed Notes: Fortune Cookies, Candied Ginger, Lotus Seeds, Mandarin Oranges, and Tea Leaves) *this was a surprise vial that I received along with my bottle of Queen of Hearts- thank you so much Alkemia for including vials of exciting temptation in our orders! In the vial: LEMONY FORTUNE COOKIE, ORANGE and GINGER. I don't know how they do this but it smells like a genuine CRISP fortune cookie fresh from the wrapper with grated ginger nearby. Applied: If you are familiar with Madame Pearl you will love Lunar New Year (Year of the Dog 2018), this limited edition perfume has the fortune cookie unwrapped and in front of the tea leaves that is illuminated by the mandarin oranges and the ginger adds a "bite" to this fragrance. As this dries the ginger and tea comes out more and turns Lunar New Year into an exotic gourmand scent to talk about. As a tiny drop goes a long way on me, I will be saving this vial and seriously thinking about getting a bottle. ~*~
*And now we have come to the part of this series of long reviews that many have been patiently waiting for. I apologize for the severe delay but I don't think you will be disappointed and I hope you will join me (possibly as early as next week) in obsessively refreshing your screens on Alkemia's main page until these love letters for the senses and imagination appear. I was going to hold back these two special reviews until I had the full bottles displayed proudly on my vanity and feature them for spring but that would be cruel. **I don't have the notes listed or am completely sure these are only parts of a whole perfume combination but I will share my honest thoughts on each and will carry these reviews over to the feature articles I have planned and of course update everything when the true notes are unveiled (I can't wait to see what artwork and names will be placed on these treasures). "Hyacinth" Thoughts: For those that dream of spring here is an exquisite smoky floral that makes you want to fling open the curtains, start gathering the Easter baskets and dusting off the large church hats. This is such a gorgeous fragrance that I can only describe as nostalgic spring at dusk with damp dew gathering on the petals of bloomed hyacinths in your garden and you can't help but close your eyes as you lie back to hear the mourning doves cooing in the distance. Ah, I love this! "Gorse" Thoughts: Here is a love letter to dream destinations and I will purchase this (and "Hyacinth") in any mixture it is placed. On me, I can only describe "Gorse" as a beautiful dirty butter with an enveloping earthy-coconut late spring essence that I don't want to take off and want to seriously bathe in. I also get a slight smokey note in this, maybe a wisp of aquatic that makes me think of fishing at the lakeside when I was a child and even a drop of vanilla but that may just be my imagination (I have been using this curious vial in rotation with another vial to fall asleep after long chaotic work nights and I don't know what is truly in this and why this helps me relax but I fall right to sleep thinking of romantic forest, glen and vale scenes from cinematic favourites.) Just absolutely phenomenal! Brava Alkemia and a huge thanks for allowing me to sample these atmospheric masterworks. alkemia.etsy.com |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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