As I have aged the holiday season has become cold and mournful (everyone you care for leaves and you are left staring at empty chairs and alone with shadows of regrets), however there are memories of once happy times that keep some spark of cheer glowing for myself in November through January and MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean somehow taps into those secret recollections with their realistic smelling gourmands, touches of vintage delight and whimsy and overall presentation that whisks all me away to a better place and time and I can't recommend this enchanting shop enough for someone that needs a smile or a unexpected reminder of comfort and joy not just in the winter months but throughout the year. Winter Spray-In Hair Tangler formula- I'll open this rambling long overdue review with first commenting on MoonaLisa's Hair Detangler formula which is a true holy grail for myself and something my vanity table will never be seen without. It's not only a compulsion anymore but an absolute necessity to stock up with as many bottles of these hair-loving elixirs as I can afford every release and then hoard them away to treat myself to a unique blend every morning and night. With my (past) waist length mane, I run through a generous sized bottle about every month and half and I truly receive my full money's worth with these products (I can't stop touching my soft manageable hair now). The longevity on the fragrance varies between each blend, however, I have discovered citrus and spice based bottles can last days in my hair. I know I keep saying this every post when it comes to MoonaLisa, but it's the truth: where has this product been all my life!? Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Description: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) As it says on the tin and this is my holy grail gingerbread fragrance home at last to spray and lavish my locks anytime I wish. To touch briefly on the scent composition (I still have the perfume and argan hair oil versions to gush about shortly) this is a rich spicy cookie scent with white chocolate icing very reminiscent of the old fashioned animal crackers we are all still looking for when we pass the cookie aisle or visit little mom & pop stores. When it comes to longevity I can enjoy about 3 days of spice, vanilla and happy thoughts with Iced Gingerbread in the detangler and I have found it pairs fabulously with different floral perfumes I happen to dab in my curls; lilac with Iced Gingerbread is my current favourite and fingers crossed a certain scent artist reads this and creates this magical marriage next year. Christmas Cocoa (Gathered Notes and Description: What warms your heart and hearth more than a steaming cup of Christmas Cocoa. Hot cocoa with an espresso shot, topped with gobs of whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon, chili and nutmeg, with a hint of sweet smoldering yule fire in the distance.) This is Moona's signature chocolate accord shot through with espresso and a glorious sky-high mound of realistic whipped cream with a dusting of spice and wisp of smoke. It was also one of the first bottles from this haul I was tempted to take a little taste of. The listed smoke is becoming more noticeable as this bottle is aging and I wore this detangler (along with my S'mores & Hot Cocoa perfume also by MoonaLisa) to a regional cake festival this past January and I had a few people leaning (uncomfortably) close and saying something smelled delicious while in a long line to get to the festival, so I guess those two fragrances are winners! For similar blends to look out for during the year, those that have had the pleasure to try Cauldron Cakes in the fall, you would love Christmas Cocoa. Snuggler (Gathered Notes and Description: The drink of choice while wintering in North Beach, San Francisco! Rich dark hot cocoa and peppermint schnapps.) Another fragrance I fell hard for last winter and had to indulge in a special treat for myself in 2019. The mysteries of skin chemistry still amaze me and hold so many surprises in store it seems because however how decadent and unexpectedly akin to dark chocolate cake Snuggler smells in the perfume verison, the peppermint schnapps amplifies in my hair with the detangler form and I do have to watch in case I'm taken for a holiday lush when first applied, haha oops. That punch of peppermint booze calms down though but I still enjoy this fragrance at home and may just spoil myself further next year and get a dusting powder to cover myself in. The longevity of Snuggler in the detangler is also impressive going on for nearly 2 days. Blood Orange & Chocolate (Gathered Notes and Description: Just like the traditional Yuletide candy treat! Made with only real Orange essential oil, as are ALL of our citrus oils are ALWAYS all natural! And rich, dark Chocolate fragrance and Cocoa Absolute) Sitting back I guess I collected quite a few chocolate blends with this haul and was craving something particular. Saying that, I'm sad to admit, Blood Orange & Chocolate wasn't exactly for me and I will stick with Whole for my dream winter orange aroma next year; this one although extremely realistic to chocolate covered oranges just didn't work in my hair as a fragrance. I bet Blood Orange & Chocolate would be divine in a soap or bath milk and I will try that form eventually as the orange is tart and sweet smelling while the cocoa absolute grounds it. I still used the entire bottle of this detangler and highly recommend it if you love the scent of chocolate covered fruit. Longevity and throw was mixed for this blend, certain times it would go for 2 days that I could still smell the citrus and others I couldn't smell it on my braid late that night. Ah well, that happens, can't fall for everything (and my pocketbook sighs in relief). Noona's Christmas Cookies (Gathered Notes and Description: A tribute to KC’s (Mooman) Sicilian Great-Grandmother. Made just like KC’s Nonna would make her special cookies ever year! A little of this, and a little of that) Well here's another bottle I was tempted to drink as Noona's Christmas Cookies is fresh oatmeal cookies from the oven drizzled in white chocolate, a hint of warm spice in the bottle and then has a bewitching realistic milky creaminess that amplifies in my hair. Mmm absolutely magnificent and I had to put a note on this bottle to use all others before even touching this scent confection again...and the bottle is nearly empty in June. I plan to hoard up on this scent come Yule 2020 in everything I can afford. For longevity this delicious smelling gem goes on for a day so I will definitely be layering it with the perfume, lotion, dusting powder and argan oil this coming winter to get the maxium scrumptious effect. I want to smell like a walking cookie! Argan Oil Hair Rescue formula- I can't have or recommend the detangler without mentioning the argan oil formula MoonaLisa offers because they are a match made in hair heaven and these products have worked absolute magic on my tresses. I have never had such shiny healthy looking hair. The Argan Oil I use after I have brushed out my mane with the aid of the Detangler then I add a dime size amount of argan oil in different scents to the end of my hair. If I have any excess oil on my hands I flip my hair down and place the excess in the back of my head. I run thru a bottle about every 3 months and they are worth every penny. Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Desciption: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) If anything the spices amplify a tiny bit more in the argan oil form which is perfectly okay with me as I can't stop talking about and stop waltzing about with this halo of irresistible gingerbread and white icing complete with vanilla extract and butter. I must hoard more next year and never run out. Milk Bath in Snuggler (Gathered Notes and Description: The drink of choice while wintering in North Beach, San Francisco! Rich dark hot cocoa and peppermint schnapps.) This was my first Milk Bath purchase and certainly not my last as the formula is gentle and moisturzing plus fragrant with a boozy peppermint patty scent I could just float in. I have also tested this item on my tresses and it works wonderfully as a mild shampoo in a pinch as well as a shaving lather and of course as a bubble bath formula (it makes a nice blanket of minty bubbles with the smallest drops added to running water). The milk bath itself is a pearlescent white when poured and the scent lasts as long as it takes to get out of my water filled sanctuary. I can immediately put on any perfume I choose and the aromas do not clash. I need this in The Rumpkin!, Kitchen Witch, Lilacs & Hyacinths (review coming soon) and my beloved Aurelia. Uh oh, this is the start of another fragrant collection, hehe. *Must mention the adorable pop-up ornament of a gingerbread house that was tucked in my order (this shop makes you feel so special with every package). I displayed it in my office at work, thank you so much Moona! Snow Ice (Gathered Notes and Description: Fond memories Moona has when a child at camp during the Nevada snows, making natural "ice cream" from ice cold snow, condensed milk, Sugar and Vanilla extract. This scent is reminiscent of that: sweet crystallized vanilla sugar and cream) Mmm! What can I say this is another holy grail perfume for me as this is most delectable vanilla I have encountered in the indie realm [claps]. Snow Ice is sublime, a true masterpiece as it's dreamy and gourmand but never childish or cloying and anyone could wear this as it isn't heavy and perfect for the workplace setting. I call this "lace ice cream" because it's so pretty, finishes off any look and yet so delicous smelling. I know this is a winter scent but I happily wear this oil all year round, very happy I purchased a full bottle. Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Desciption: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) The search is over, THIS is the gingerbread perfume of my dreams I have been searching for ever since I stepped foot into the indie perfume realm. We have here the ideal gingerbread scent sealed in a bottle along with a whiff of iced animal crackers I fondly remember and even a trace of butter and old-fashioned vanilla extract that appears after 6 hours. It's warm, comforting, incredibly realistic AND it stays on my skin more than 10 minutes (I finally have a gingerbread scent confection I can wear everywhere). I'm so happy and can't stop dancing! Surprise Extra Gifts (thank you, MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean) The Gloaming perfume oil (Birch, silver fir, spruce, Cypress, peppermint, frankincense, cinnamon bark) *a sample that appeared in my one yule order/ there were 2 and I combined them for this review. This shop is renowned for their gourmand scents but they also do realistic resins and earthy fragrances magnificently as well and The Gloaming is a perfect example. When applied it's like being directly underneath a pine tree with the needles and dirt, it's extremely relaxing and has a meditative quality I can lose myself in. I swear I smell unlisted patchouli as I'm receiving that familiar "peanut butter and metal mix" my skin chemistry morphs patchouli into with different blends and I'm in love. The refreshing peppermint appears hours later and I have been using The Gloaming to escape the June heat as I fall asleep. I hope this fragrance appears this coming winter because I would love a detangler and bath milk or bath salt pot in The Gloaming. I think Krampus Night! has some competition. Simmering Potpourri in Yuletide Cheer (Listed as "an all natural blend of All-spice, Grapefruit peels, Cinnamon Star Anice, Nutmeg, Ginger Root, Hibiscus, Sea Salt & Essential Oils") In the bag, it's sweet fruit with seasonal spices that smell like Wassail or Glogg without the alcohol and I don't know about anyone else but this and the sparkle spray that appeared in the Halloween boxes need to be permanent items with each release. When in the heated pot the fragrance is intoxicating and my house is filled with the heavenly scent of spice and fruit. Bulldog funk is no match for Yuletide Cheer as it transforms everything and brightens moods to all that smell it when they visit. I hope this returns next winter. What a creative extra something special to finish this amazing haul. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean *review composed in February 2020
Admittedly the winter corner of my vast perfume collection was a little lacking so when I saw the theme for Stereoplasm's Winter 2020 collection, I had to indulge. These vials and bottles have only rested over a week, but I said it once and I'll say it again: Stereoplasm somehow outdoes themselves with every release. The spread I'm about to ramble about is filled with rich florals, hyperrealistic smelling velvets, brocades and fancy dressings, intriguing quasi-gourmands and of course classic bottled romanticism that all harkens back to a complex era of innovation and change. All I can say is, brava Stereoplasm! *All of the following were purchased on Black Friday (with the exception of Bleak House and Chimney Sweep which were free samples in my order) and are becoming stronger with their longevity and sillage from when they first arrived. I can expect around 6 to 10+ hours on my dry winter skin and even longer on my neck and hair. Crinoline (Linen extrait de Parfum, ash lye, blue lace macarons, white tea, hazelnut truffles, peppermint and almond petit fours.) On me, I get realistic sweet almond extract mixed with hazelnut and peppermint for the first hour on my skin then Crinoline slowly morphs to warm steeped tea and a swirl of peppermint which all completely dries down to a hidden sophisticated jasmine "glass clinking" vintage perfume scent that is a mystery unto itself. Absolutely magnificent and for longevity it went on for nearly 10 hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. Spectres in Dresses (Faded ivory lace, tortoiseshell aigrette, powdered-skin musk, dried jasmine petals, white amber and silk chemise.) This blend starts out similar to The Green Ribbon with an unlisted lilac note then Spectres in Dresses amps the promised jasmine and turns clean and a little powdery before completely drying down to all lovely vintage white amber and floral which lasts until the next morning. It's unapologetically feminine and tells a beguiling scent story on me. A true keeper for my vanity table, events and the workplace setting. Victoria (Devon cream, blueberry Langues de Chat, brocade, English ivy, guillotine blades, rust and granite.) In the bottle we are tempted by the marvellous blueberry cream and a curious hint of saltiness and when applied that blueberry sets out an early spring scene which is unexpected as each following note blooms and opens. The stone and distinct metal scent are wet smelling like after a cold rainstorm and the longer this oil dries the more it brings to mind an oddly timed garden party under a tent with brocade chairs set out to lounge upon. Everything about this party seems "off" and even a bit sinister, but you dare not leave. It's something to experience and I can't say I have anything like Victoria in my collection. Who knew blueberry, rust, cold stone with hyperrealistic brocade material would create such a peculiar regal fragrance. Jam Tart (Spanish Seville & ginger marmalade, short crust pastry, carmine, crepe paper, drops of belladonna and rose petal rouge.) I couldn't but giggle when I saw the name for this creation and the clever infusion of notes but alas, Jam Tart and I aren't meant to be. On me, I get sweet bubblegum and laundry bubbles and it doesn't morph like all the others I've tried. It's pretty there is no doubt of that, however, I was desiring something a bit "peppery" and naughty. Instead, it's very playful and sweet on me and I guess I amp ginger versus the other notes. I know it's still early so I will wait to see how this blend changes after some patience. Chimney Sweep (Conifer trees, resinous pinecone, crumbling soot, aged brick, Russian leather, cologne musk and gin sweetened with black licorice.) Step in time! Kick your knees up and take me away, you seductive mixture of leather, resin and licorice! Whew, Chimney Sweep is something else. There is an element of refinement to this that lends to the story of a handsome character with a double life which is unexpected and certainly appreciated. Licorice is my weakness in any blend and here it is showcased, but I wouldn't call Chimney Sweep a gourmand, oh no, the soft leather, pine and slight dirtiness of the soot and crumbled brick elevates this oil from a linear foody scent to one sophisticated swoon-worthy fragrance in the end. I need more pairings of licorice and leather in my collection; brilliant! Librarian (Vintage perfume, rosewater, aged paper, velvet upholstery, cherrywood, cognac, orange butter and mulling spices.) Here's another oil full of surprises because the first notes that hit my nose on opening are orange starburst candy and leather, wild right? Thankfully that all changes over to this fabulous velvet upholstery aroma that has absolutely floored me throughout this release and it's paired with aged paper, cognac, warm spice and a splash of rosewater and orange. These accords balance one another and Librarian ends the night as soft and inviting like your favourite armchair in the library by a sunlight stained glass window or lamp. Bleak House (Dusty carpet, labdanum, dark chocolate, leather shoes, pits of plum, hourglass sand and obsidian musk.) Oh, Heathcliff is that you?! This is the scent of an elegant figure of secrecy with a brooding dark side you can't help but want to get to know more about. You know you should stay away for your mother warned you of confident figures with sweet words and promises, but it's impossible to resist his charms and you can stare into the fires together late at night and listen to the howling winds and rain. Leather again here is the unexpected refined captivator and it is married to dry cocoa with plum (which is always a charming combination in my book), a little saltiness from the hourglass sand, and a hyperrealistic scent of carpet that immediately brings to mind fine antique rugs. Now, this is an entrancing atmospheric. Can I hand this out to available men on street corners? Both Bleak House and Chimney Sweep (*leans more unisex) are going right next to Deconstructing Eden's Truth Universally Acknowledged, Sixteen92's Lycanthrope and Salem and Strange Fire & Fumery's Fougère du Étrange for all different reasons, hehe. Mourning Glory (Thick black velvet curtains, bruised palmarosa leaves, Shanghai spice, wilted white carnations and bible leather.) For a brief moment on application, I get a whiff of sweet bubblegum on my skin then Mourning Glory changes entirely to aged leather, realistic carnation and soft warm spice. The promised "thick black velvet curtain" material reveals itself soon afterwards and I'm happy to jot down Stereoplasm's fantastic leather book accord (complete with the distinct aroma of antique yellowed pages) stays wonderfully balanced the whole time between the spice and florals, instead of screeching forward or turning acrid and burning to my nose which can happen so often on my skin from other leather blends. Overall, Mourning Glory is a little Gothic gem I think will work best as a bedtime fragrance for myself. For others, this is a fragrance to take out and show off, but alas I have nowhere to share; so I will pair this with treasured Gothic Literature and let Mourning Glory take me away to an awaiting dark melodrama. Stereoplasm *review composed in January 2020
2019 belonged to Nui Cobalt Designs and one other shop in my book and my collection just continues to expand with every release as I discover a new note I never thought I would love and another blue beauty of a bottle to bring home to display on my vanity. Here were the blends that arrived and brought in the new year with only good things to come for 2020. Merry Christmas to all celebrating today! *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. The following oils last between 5 to 12+ hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. Purchased on Black Friday: Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with a polished vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. It's soft and suggestive, speaking from a forgotten era of beauty and gentility. Starlight & Spider Silk (Swift and skillful, her instinct's artistry glimmers with deadly precision. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans.) I don't know how Forest did it but this is the scent of clear gossamer swaying in the breeze and morning dewdrops with elegant vanilla. On me, there is something nearly floral and creamy about Starlight & Spider Silk (don't you love all of these poetic and perfectly matched names?). I don't have anything to compare this oil to currently in my vast collection. Wow, this is stunning and I can't help but think of waltzing spirits and one song in particular (Once Upon a December) when I have Starlight & Spider Silk dabbed all over. I can expect 12 hours of sophisticated perfection with this perfume and couldn't have asked for more. Fairy Lights (A whimsical blend to invoke joy and the true spirit of the season. Their glow is the quintessence of Yuletide. Bright white copal softens into golden cathedral incense and wild honeycomb, then nestles into a deep dark vanilla and luxuriant amber.) For the colder days and months to soon arrive, I wanted to seek out something that reminded me of happier memories of the holiday season and Fairy Lights became THE scent of 2019 I was determined to have. Although well blended, it's not quite what I was searching for, however, I'm falling for this fragrance slowly for the soft elegance that radiants from this oil that indeed reminds me of the appearance of Victorian Fairy Light. It's smooth and comforting with a hidden mint note that I'm guessing is the copal (or possible unlisted Palo santo) melding with my chemistry and with patient aging the warm honey note is coming more forward after the 4-hour mark then lasting until the end of my 12-hour shift. Another blend I can't say I have anything in my collection to compare to and with that Fairy Lights is a keeper, but my search continues for a realistic cathedral incense, sweet honey and beeswax perfume to call my mine and smells like my childhood Christmas Eve. Warm Fuzzies (The scent of softness and tender affection. Ripened peaches, cotton flower, flax, leaves of lamb's ear, smooth sandalwood, skin-warmed wool, a touch of Ceylon cinnamon and a sprinkle of ginger. Wear this comforting blend to encourage gentle kisses, wistful smiles, and acts of loving kindness.) *sample vial appeared in my Black Friday order. When I first opened Warm Fuzzies it brought to mind Wicked Pumpkin just without the pumpkin and maple as the peach immediately attached to my skin and amplified and I'm not going to lie, I was concerned as peach can turn into an ode to a tomcat, on me. Thankfully that hasn't happened and Warm Fuzzies is a soft peach that stays a dewy peach and smells also of clean sheets and a fresh grating of ginger. It has been accompanying me to work as the scent stays close and brings to mind warm spring sunlight. Press Samples: The Star (The light of hope and the power of renewal. Winter citrus, chilled champagne, neroli, dogwood, angelica, frankincense, clover honey, porcelain musk, and snow-covered sandalwood. This sacred scent invokes Grace and fulfillment in all areas of life, from material prosperity to emotional wellness.) This is an aptly named blend as The Star is bright and golden with a glass of joyous bubbly champagne and sweetened citrus on opening that slowly changes over to warm honey and finishes out the night with a stunning powdery finale. It can be slightly more soapy on application than I usually prefer, but that dry down with floral kissed honey and vintage creamy powder is what makes The Star a festive keeper for me. I'm curious if the overly clean scent will be tempered in the coming year or if it just my wonky chemistry that is ultimately latching onto the champagne and strong citrus. Cozy (A potion for peace and contentment. The vanillic scent of very old books, winter spices drifting from the kitchen, glowing beeswax candles, a blanket around your shoulders, and a Douglas fir adorned with lights. Wear this scent when you crave stillness and silence. It has a talent for putting the outside world into decidedly softer focus.) As it says on the tin, the vanillic scent of dusty well-loved books, a dusting of spices and the warm glow of realistic beeswax candles. The fir note is very faint on me, but that's expected as my skin eats pine. As Cozy dries down an orange note appears that dances between gourmand and atmospheric when the familiar comforting wool yarn aroma from Favorite Sweater hits my nose. I'm going to be using Cozy in unscented argan oil for this winter season, I want those beautiful fir, beeswax and yarn notes to all really amp and take me away. Mauna Kea (The snow-capped domain of the sky father, Wakea and modern-day passage to the stars. This summit attracts astronomers from around the world, as its observatories are second to none. Glacial mountain air, bitter almond spiked with rosemary, white vanilla orchid, frozen coconut, and starlight. Wear this bracing blend to sharpen your senses and hone your powers of perception.) I came for the gorgeous description and stayed for the sweet delicate almond, bracing fresh coconut and familiar "starlight" impression from another favourite oil I now own a full bottle of. This oil is stunning and I can easily imagine the immense heavens above with winking stars and coolness from a mountain top carried with the wind. I know it sounds silly, but when I don Mauna Kea, I always feel like I'm replicating the scene from How the Grinch Stole Christmas when the Grinch realizes he is growing a heart and "is feeling", this is me with the coconut. Am I a coconut lover now, who will pay for and swoon with every tropical-themed release? It's hard to say and now that's all for today...uh, in any case, I LOVE Mauna Kea and will be saving up for a bottle to grace my vast vanilla collection. This is akin to Starlight & Spidersilk who took a little tropical holiday. Snowflakes & Spider Silk (Our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk takes a merry turn for the winter holidays. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, grapefruit sorbet, fresh ginger root, and fluffy white meringue. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight.) Now here's a blend for my moody little self as on application, Snowflakes & Spidersilk has a more of gourmand exterior leaning almost candyish with the sweetened grapefruit sorbet and vanilla (like a fancy skittle) and is backed by the familiar glowing and slightly haunting "starlight" from Starlight & Spidersilk. All very unexpected and it has me questioning if this combination may be "too happy" for myself to pull off. On the other side of the coin, there's no harm wearing all black and smelling like a fancy skittle, right? I need to think more about Snowflakes & Spidersilk for next year as one of my resolutions was to be a bit more selective of the bottles I bring home. I can't have them all (I keep telling myself). Olympe de Gouges (Born into French aristocracy in the 1700s, she was an unexpected champion of human rights. Olympe wrote bold treatises against slavery and sexism that influenced powerful minds in government. She is credited with the prescient statement, "A woman has the right to mount the scaffold. She must possess equally the right to mount the speaker's platform." She was beheaded in 1793. The fragrance inspired by her is a decidedly bourgeois composition of orange flower, rose, sandalwood, bergamot, and violet infused into ivory leather gloves.) Blame what I'm currently reading and my stellar experience with Nui Cobalt's The Netherfield Ballroom candle, (that carries a similar scent profile) but when I smelled this vial I knew I found something very special for my collection. This shop has this marvellous way with violet and leather notes that somehow play nice on my skin (what wonderous sorcery is that?!) and Olympe de Gouges is a lovely scent that harkens back to another time all together and I must move some things around to purchase a bottle next year. I get all the florals at different points after application, but the vintage rose is the note that rises to the top at the moment with soft leather staying in the background instead of screeching forward which can sometimes happen with my wonky chemistry (same with violets). I have been wearing this soft powdery floral wonder to the workplace setting and Olympe de Gouges will also be accompanying me to different historical events in 2020. Diamonds in the Snow (A glistening expanse of freshly fallen snow in the moonlight. Iced lavender, lemon, and juniper enshrouded in ivory satin, white clove, and crushed coriander with a base of vanilla sugar. Wear this elegant scent when you want to steal the spotlight and stand out from the crowd.) Well with a name of Diamonds in the Snow there was no doubt I had to try this and ooh, this is pretty. Nui Cobalt does herbals like no other and the stars of this blend are the realistic calming lavender and clove with coriander that adds just a touch of mystery and the unexpected to this oil. If you love creamy cool scents, Diamonds in the Snow is a must to try. These oils have been peacefully aging for a few weeks now and the "ivory satin" impression is out today to steal the show and I can't stop smelling my wrist and imagining classy ladies from various literature attending a gala event decked out all in glistening crystals and creamy white. I may need to expand my top 5 list to 7 by the end of this session of reviews as Diamonds in the Snow deserves a choice spot and has a welcoming place on my vanity waiting. Snow Cat ("...watching the cat's breath gently fog up the window in fleeting wisps as the sun rises grey-white through the cloud cover. her ice eyes, buttons of sky."- poetry by Jenn Zahrt The very essence of Hygge: lightly toasted marzipan, ivory amber, chilled coconut milk, and the soft fur of a purring kitten. Wear this comforting blend for instant soothing and solace.) By now it's no mystery I love powdery and creamy fresh perfumes, I crave them, I hoard them and ramble about them. So here's another to add to my growing lists of professional and comforting gems to save for as Snow Cat has taken my workplace by storm and I have received quite a few compliments which who are we kidding, always brightens one's day (or night). These notes alone should be loud and obtrusive on me (even spooky with the almond) yet somehow they only create a peaceful delicate sweetness that others around me gravitate towards. Er, I'm not doing so well being more selective with these blends as I want Snow Cat in my winter drawer. I can't have enough work safe perfumes that carry a graceful quality to them and Nui Cobalt dominates that desired fragrance description for me. Incense, Gold, and Myrhh (A sparkling spin on an ancient tradition. Cathedral resins and angelica are warmed by tangerine pomanders studded with cloves, Tupelo honey, regal amber, calendula petals, true Ceylon cinnamon, and saffron. Wear this sacred scent to attract health, wealth, and wisdom in the coming year.) I'm still on the hunt for the perfect wintery incense perfume with honey that sweeps me back to Christmas Midnight Mass and Holy Supper and this one is close (actually if the odd mint note in Fairy Lights was replaced with the incense in this, it would be sublime) however in the end somehow reminds me more of the Brittish side of my heritage versus Slavic/Russian. It's smokey and the pomander note with cinnamon is dominant on me bringing to mind all the puddings my grandmother would make and the decorations around the house. I adore anything with cinnamon and Incense, Gold, and Myrrh is something I can truly say I don't have which is a smoky incense infused cinnamon/pomander perfume. The search, however, continues for my Christmas Eve in a bottle but I still would love a vivid blue bottle of Incense, Gold, and Myrrh on my vanity. Snowball Fight (The scent of shared laughter and unbridled enthusiasm. Poached pears, rice pudding with nutmeg and allspice, a drizzle of caramel and a single fresh bay leaf. Wear this joyful scent to lift your mood and invoke a celebratory spirit.) To my nose, this is a delightful cousin scent of the much-beloved Little Brown Rabbit but without the opening clean fluffy laundry note, oh no, this is comforting nutmeg, warm spice, caramelized dipped pears and a hidden honey note I want to slather always and forever. Don't get me wrong I enjoy the fluffy clean element of Little Brown Rabbit, however, the dry down is what is my favourite from that perfume and Snowball Fight is exactly what I have been hoping to find. There is nothing so wintery and perfect as nutmeg, pears and honey in my book and this scent potion showcases these treasured notes beautifully. Ah, Snowball Fight is comfort and joy in a bottle and I will be dancing around with my very own soon. Sworn Enemy of Convention: Tribute to Hedy Lamarr (Lauded by Hollywood as "the most beautiful woman in the world," Hedy Lamarr's true genius was revealed in her invention of the multi-frequency torpedo guidance system. It wasn't implemented by the US military in WWII as she had intended, but it did lay the foundation for Code Division Multiple Access: the system on which modern cell phone communication is built. Her birthday, November 9th, is now known as Inventor's Day in her home country of Austria. The fragrance inspired by her is the scent of Hollywood's Golden Age: sparkling white grapefruit, golden sandalwood, deep amber resin, and fine fur accord. Wear this glamorous scent to reveal your hidden powers and secret strengths.) Oh, Hedy. It's not you, it's me. You smell so pretty in the vial and it figures my chemistry completely destroys such a beautifully researched oil. I'm still trying to figure out what went wrong with this one and I have a sneaking suspicion it's the combination of the sparkling grapefruit, wood and fine fur accord because Sixteen92's Redrum smells very similar on me in the way of instead of a classy event or a harken back to another era, I'm getting an amplifying sharp cloying chemical note which I can't learn to love no matter how hard I try. Apologies folks, my chemistry is just evil and delights in torturing me. I read Sworn Enemy of Convention was exquisite on others and I'm completely jealous (and I want to smell like a ghost from the RMS Titanic with Redrum:(). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Hell Freezes Over (A daring and diabolical scent for getting into delicious trouble. Decadent devil's food cake, still warm from the oven, fluffy marshmallow frosting and the lightest dusting of crushed candy cane. Wear this voluptuous gourmand fragrance only if you're prepared to be on the Naughty list.) Mmm more of a gooey batter cake fragrance on me versus a true baked cake scent, but I like this (I mean who doesn't enjoy eating cake batter from the beater?). It's hard to find a perfume with candy canes listed and they are front and centre on my skin which is perhaps my chemistry trying in vain to apologize for the disaster it made of Hedy Lamarr and Redrum. I've not forgiven it...but the fluffy marshmallow frosting that is now coming forward is easing the pain of betrayal a little. Interesting the chocolate fades fast and the peppermint and marshmallow take over. I'm okay with that, haha. Longevity overall is shorter than the others in this batch, with Hell Freezes Over still detectable at 5 hours. I'm going to experiment with this oil in whipped soap and report back another day. Under the Mistletoe (A romantic melange of white winter rose, frozen vanilla, a mahogany mantle decked with holly, golden spiced rum, gilded magnolia, and flickering candlelight. Wear this potion to attract love and encourage kisses.) Mmm Hello, you boozy floral tease, would you like to come home to me? Oh, magnolia wow that note comes forward to say a lot when first applied. I guess I amp the buttery lemon quality of magnolia and dark properties of mahogany. I was hoping this would be a bright lighthearted sister scent of my beloved Exsanguinated (yes, a little dark-hearted individual can get the strange happy urge to deck the halls and sing out of key with the best of them once in a blue moon, I mean if there are roses, spice, "flickering candlelight" and something so prettily named as Under the Mistletoe to drench herself in of course). Okay, time to be firm. Even though exceptionally lovely (oh, the dreamy vanilla is coming through now and sweetness factor is kicking in), the roses are being overshadowed by the magnolia and I don't need a bottle right now. See that's firm, I can wait and hope this pretty little number comes back next Winter. Baby steps. Nui Cobalt Designs It's no secret autumn is my favourite season and every year I try to seek out the most unique (but wearable) perfumes for the changing of the leaves, windy stormy midnight walks and workplace celebrations/events and I must say, Stereoplasm ended up sharing the title of rulers over my vanity this season with one other house of fragrance. Their blends were out of the box, touched on some personal nostalgia and even created some new memories with one specific blend. This is a shop to watch (they seriously somehow outdo themselves with every release)! From The Witch’s Complete Autumn Compendium Owl Eyes (Ancient Joshua tree, labdanum, golden amber eyes, a toasted sliver of rye bread, intoxicating sticky resin and Arabian myrrh) In the bottle, it's resins, myrrh and the realistic aroma of fresh rye bread that all catch my full attention as these notes conjure the vision of a golden-eyed owl perched in a pine tree. Applied, more of the bright resins amplify with the amber adding a distinguished warmth behind the bright notes and the rye bread has completely disappeared. On me, Owl Eyes has a vintage cologne streak that I wasn't expecting but I oddly enjoy it, I think I'll just tuck this one away in the "someday pile" as I think this would make a fabulous fragrance for a gentleman. Mandrake (Pumpkin vines and flesh, wet cobblestones, toadstools in soft mulch, cinnamon bark, decaying leaves, wild tobacco) Mandrake is grounding and comforting at the same time with realistic warm cinnamon bark and earthy mulch and autumn forest floor with mossy stones. This is the scent of a healer in the autumn woods and hiding in the background is a drop of vanilla tobacco [claps]. Who knew mulch paired with cinnamon bark would create something so perfect and addictive to sniff throughout the night. Also interesting to note the cobblestone accord is more like rocks found in the rich dirt with no overpowering sweetness that can sometimes appear with "stone" blends to jot down. I wore this blend this past Halloween and it matched my autumn forest spirit costume wonderfully. If you love the intoxicating scent of cinnamon broom, Mandrake is a must to try. Skeleton Polish (A quicksilver mirror reflects plumes of opium smoke surrounding sugared pears, a goblet of emerald-green absinthe and black silk) Fellow absinthe perfume collectors, rejoice and gather round because you're not going to want to miss Skeleton Polish. I don't know how Meaghan did it but this smells like pear licorice and smooth silk and I'm not afraid to admit, I fell hard for this bottle. Not only did it convert an indie perfume hater at my workplace (she never complimented my perfumes until I wore Skeleton Polish or asked about trying indies until that night) but this is also somehow "airy" in ways without being soapy and I swear I recognize a drop of violet from World’s Fair 1893 in this. Mmm so delightfully creepy and elegant at the same time. Batwing Brew (Delicate seeds of sesame, rich wood-smoked vanilla, buckwheat honey, crystallized ginger root, eye of plumeria and leathery wing of bat) This one has morphed quite a bit from when it first arrived and now I properly understand its name. The first week, Batwing Brew was sesame sticks, a hint of unlisted sandalwood with honey and more of a gourmand that wasn't as witchy as I was anticipating but still quite delightful and a pleasant bedtime fragrance. A month later NOW we are talking with some contrasting notes that have appeared, I get soft leather and warm honey that dries down to smoked vanilla that brings out the all hallow's eve vibes and is perfect for walking out into the swirling winds to embrace the final moments of fall (it's not over yet!). I'm not sure what plumeria smells like so I can't identify that note and I'm convinced now my chemistry eats ginger. Overall, I'm impressed and may have to start collecting leather and honey medleys because Batwing Brew is lovely with just that right amount of unexpected (have to keep them guessing;)). The Green Ribbon (Crushed velvet, roasted pumpkin seeds, creaking sandalwood floorboards, beheaded flower stems, skin musk, lies and deceit) I asked for a ghost story and Stereoplasm delivered one hell of a gorgeous scent story with this blend that opens with unlisted realistic ghostly lilac and then it shifts and morphs to salted pumpkin seeds with creamy sandalwood and finally dries down to the scent of the inside of a velvet lined music box with flower stems and a drop of metal. How in the world is this all possible? I'm floored to add The Green Ribbon to my collection and don't know what else to say except The Green Ribbon is the bottled treasured scary story I have been waiting for since I stepped into the Indie realm👏💀 Brava, my dear! Woman in White (Juniper, white sage, Heather, a blueberry bush drenched in evening dew, soft fur, sweet pea) In the bottle Woman in White dances back and forth from fresh blueberries to crushed juniper and a floral but alas on my skin, this oil turns into a soapy feminine version of Mothman. Perhaps there is a drop of sulfur in this that is reminding me of Mothman as I get that "metal buzzing" note in the background. Woman in White didn't exactly work well on my skin but it does smell enchanting in my locks. Another keeper for my unscented whipped soaps and argan oils. From the La Belles Dame Sans Merci collection Temptress of the Ancients: (Dried lavender, joshua tree, hanging gardens, magnolia champaca, camphor and fresh fig) In the vial, it's a bushel of dried lavender tied with a silk ribbon. When it applied the opening is realistic dried lavender that then morphs to this incredible floral forest mix that dances between ethereal and seductively addicting. I just learned to identify magnolia this past summer and it is indeed present adding a buttery lemon-like heart to this fragrance. I also get a hint of the camphor and joshua tree smelling a little like pine in the background. Overall, a very wearable fragrance for a night out or sitting at your desk staring out the window at the swaying trees. Rubies from your Lips: (Twilight musk, smoked woodsage, carnation corsage, holy water, green clove, damp soil and grave moss) I have a confession: I have a complicated relationship with carnation as when I smell it I go straight to a dark place and it takes forever for me to climb out of that place and lock that door again but at the same time, it's impossible to not to admire a perfect ruffled shaped bloom in someone's garden or in old paintings. Rubies From Your Lips, thankfully is more moss dominant on me with clove and a subdued sweet innocent floral that is still noticeable but not overpowering at the base (there may even be a hidden citrus or fruit dripped on the carnation petals). It's a pretty blend, however, it fades and disappears on me within an hour. His heart to Drink: (Sour blackberries, lodestone, deer musk, willow oak, copper, faded cologne and silver crucifix) Here is another scent potion that has been growing on me since it arrived as the first week it was grape jolly ranchers with metal and cologne but what a month of patience has done for this oil. The sour berries have given way to realistic metal and the forest elements on my skin. His heart to Drink (gah, I love these names and saying them when people ask what I'm wearing) stays close but conjures one seductive tale that is hard not to lean in more to learn about. Definitely another keeper and one to wear when I'm reading some spicy Victorian or Regency Era gothic romance. Unlisted Collection Lady in Roses (Freshly clipped Bulgarian and American Roses, Black Ink, Aged Leather Book Binding and Baby's Breath) *appeared in my order as a full 6ml bottle. Thank you so much, Meaghan! I think Stereoplasm has been secretly reading my dream perfume diary because ladies and gentlemen, this is the scent of Belle in her castle library! I'm over the moon that I have so many treasured films, book characters and special stories in scent form to slather and dab to my heart's content. For those possibly turning their noses up to an oil I say brings to mind an animated Disney character, allow me to explain and describe this gem. The roses are fresh, realistic and non-soapy nor do they carry the smell of hairspray. This classic elegant floral melds so perfectly with the unmistakable aroma of an old book that releases that wonderful crackling sound when you open it and inhale the dusty pages of knowledge. I usually amp leather to the heavens and can make myself quite ill, but not so with Lady in Roses, it's the perfect balance of floral and soft leather binding. It's a sophisticated rose perfume with baby's breath serving as a bookmark in an aged tome. I think I found the perfect rose combination to use for my future perfume custom (a work in progress). Stereoplasm Roses So Red "The children know." "Know what exactly Miss Colburn?" "They know about the dreadful cries in the night, the mysterious light outside my door and of my missing pearl brooch". A cold shudder ran through Evalyn Colburn as she mouthed those words she had been denying to herself for the past 6 months. The young woman sighed and leaned against the damp window as she confessed her thoughts to Mrs Phelps and let her weary eyes descend to the floor as she tried to contemplate all that had occurred ever since she entered Norworth Hall to an answer of a hurried advertisement for an accomplished governess for the two nieces and nephew of Mr and Mrs Merrill Norworth. The excitement and sense of worth that coursed through Evalyn that uncommonly warm April morning as she stepped with such conviction and composture from the travelling carriage now were replaced with a mere shadow of that young woman who introduced herself to her employers and their cursed relations. From the moment she entered Norworth Hall, Evalyn's personality, interests and her posture had been altered to worst degree and as she let her pale eyes slowly rise to meet the gaze of the head housekeeper Lettie Phelps on that dismal October evening in 1839, the frightful realization that a glimpse of a smirk pulled at the older woman's wrinkled maw; she seemed to enjoy watching the torment that now plagued the governess. Or was that a play of the dancing lamplight? "I assure you, Miss Colburn, the cries you speak of are sadly master Bennet with his night terrors and the light in the hallway, that is me, miss. I check the doors and windows at night as requested by Mrs Norworth and to the whereabouts of your missing brooch, perhaps YOU misplaced it." The dead empty stare that now exuded from the ancient housekeeper emphasized by the hungry shadows seemed to pierce into the young girl's very soul and cause her to fidget and brush imaginary creases out of her drab muslin dress with her ashen hand. Evalyn despised that stare which seemed to be the only expression anyone in the household could muster when asked a question or was speaking to her. Another icy shiver ran the length of the governess's spine as she crossed the room, she then stopped and replied with a defeated sigh. "I apologize then. I have not been feeling well and I think it best that this to be my last night at Norworth Hall. I will send a missive to Mrs Norworth and be leaving in the morning." "As you wish miss". Upstairs in the small sanctuary that served as the governess's quarters, Evalyn stared into a small cracked looking-glass. Her face was so sallow from nervous weight loss and her stomach churned suddenly when the lifeless blank stare of Norworth Hall mocked back from the glass. No, she wouldn't the strange despair that seemed to seep from the very corners and floorboards of the house consume her. To break the oppressing silence she tried to laugh and allow herself a ghost of a smile, but the sound she uttered and reflection just taunted her, only echoing as unfamiliar. Was she going mad? Shaking her head she promised herself she would smile and laugh again just as soon as she left that horrid house. Norworth Hall was in itself irregular and its owners only added to its strangeness. The curious requests of her at first were endured and seen only as eccentric, but now they seemed to play into her concerns. There was the cutting of her long hair, the request of wearing the same dress every day, the notion that she drink from one particular teacup and of course the prompting of certain colours only viewed in one room every other day. What did it all mean? The need to rest triumphed over the clumsy attempts lifting then placing aside the missive that was started and scratched out half a dozen times. A blink then nod into an uneasy slumber was disturbed by a bizarre noise that caused her to abandon her little sanctuary and follow the interruption toward the children's nursery. "Glove, hood and thimbles of fox What pretty dress should we wear? What should we put in our hair? The jackdaws gather a shiny trinket for the king and sing Where is Odelia? Where is Edythe? Have you seen Hanna? In the garden, in the garden With roses so red! Should we tell Evalyn they are all dead? Shhh...." A chorus of giggles concluded the eerie song. Evalyn pushed open the door and hardly able to utter the question she dreaded, she choked. "What...what did you say?" With angelic smiles, all three Norworth children chanted together. "Roses so red Good evening, Uncle Merrill!" -EGP It isn't Halloween or officially fall at my house anymore without a large order from MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean and with this huge (beautifully presented) parcel I learned there are a hundred different variations of pumpkin, spice and everything nice that I just want to roll around in. This was only part one of my Moonaween 2019 haul. Witch's Brew Leave In De-Tangler formula- I'll open this rambling long overdue review with first commenting on MoonaLisa's Hair Detangler formula which is a true holy grail for myself and something my vanity table will never be seen without. It's not only a compulsion anymore but an absolute necessity to stock up with as many bottles of these hair-loving elixirs as I can afford every release and then hoard them away to treat myself to a unique blend every morning and night. With my (past) waist length mane, I run through a generous sized bottle about every month and half and I truly receive my full money's worth with these products (I can't stop touching my soft manageable hair now). The longevity on the fragrance varies between each blend, however, I have discovered citrus and spice based bottles can last days in my hair. I know I keep saying this every post when it comes to MoonaLisa, but it's the truth: where has this product been all my life!? The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) Making up over half my first order comes my favourite blend from Moona known to all as The Rumpkin!. When it comes to the perfume oil version versus the detangler form there isn't any difference with strength of the scent I can comment on. All the notes morph and shift with the passing hours and this one gets attention and compliments no matter what form I don for the night. Cauldron Cakes (Deliciously sinful Cauldron Cakes oozing with melted Butter, Cinnamon, and Maple and Vanilla glaze, with a crushed nutting topping, and served with piping hot cappuccino and a tiny, tiny touch of Witching mischief!) I fell hard for my perfume sample of Cauldron Cakes in 2018 and have been patiently saving and circling the site waiting for the day I could spritz my locks to my heart's content with intoxicating maple, butter and realistic fancy cappuccino. It's divine and another rare find for myself that I can wear anything coffee noted. Out of all the bottles of detanglers I purchased this round, Cauldron Cakes lasted the longest running 3 days that I could clearly smell it when I flipped my curls. Another keeper and repurchase for 2020. The Evil Garden (The peaches, apples, plums and pears that are guarded by ferocious bears. Too bad the nurse has disappeared, but in her place has revered, gorgeous flowers that have a smell, which causes one to feel unwell. (but you won't) All these months later and I'm still trying to decipher the notes. When sprayed I get an initial blast of "airy" apple and pear that then morphs to this creepy cotton candy scent with possible freesia and almonds. It's growing on me, but at the same time, it reminds me of this one perfume I wore to my first dance many years ago that ended with me crying trying to find a ride home (thanks brain for hanging onto that lovely memory, hate you too). I have nothing against anything smelling like cotton candy, it's just an unfortunate association that always hits me. I think I need to wear The Evil Garden to a happy event and rebuild my memory attached to anything cotton candy and apple scented. On the plus side, my hair is so soft and fragrant and I do love pear with plums. Kitchen Witch (The aroma of a Kitchen Witch fills the air with sweet, haunting memories, of magic, warmth and spice! The sweet and mouthwatering aroma of creamy Pumpkin Pies, fresh baked Crusts and Cakes, melted Butter, Pecans, Brown Sugar, Vanilla Extract and a touch of spice!) Kitchen Witch and The Evil Garden were fragrances I had never tried before even in perfume samples so imagine the comical scene of me opening the cap to Kitchen Witch and making the most embarrassing noises of pure delight (nearly sticking the applicator up my nose) then racing to the nearest mirror to spray this confection all over not just my head and falling immediately in love and finally placing Kitchen Witch on the "do not use until all other bottles are empty" rotation. Well that's exactly what happened and months later my bottle is nearly empty so that plan and vow went out the window fast as the sugared pie crust, pumpkin, butter hidden orange zest and vanilla spice bomb has completely taken over my senses and I can't stay away from this scent potion. It's another divine blend to recommend and I will be repurchasing Kitchen Witch in everything I can when the times comes. Argan Oil Hair Rescue formula- I can't have or recommend the detangler without mentioning the argan oil formula MoonaLisa offers because they are a match made in hair heaven and these products have worked absolute magic on my tresses. I have never had such shiny healthy looking hair. The Argan Oil I use after I have brushed out my mane with the aid of the Detangler then I add a dime size amount of argan oil in different scents to the end of my hair. If I have any excess oil on my hands I flip my hair down and place the excess in the back of my head. I run thru a bottle about every 3 months and they are worth every penny. The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) Just as with the detangler I don't notice any one note dominating over another and I get a perfect marriage of spice and herb with the pumpkin and lavender along with hidden smoke, apple and marshmallow. Sublime in so many ways and I reach for this scent not only in fall but throughout the whole year. What can I say, this self confessed pumpkin whore has found her holy grail blend. Lip Butters formula- This was my first time ordering the Lip Butters and if I could stop licking my lips and thinking about eating the sticks I could concentrate and properly catalogue my thoughts. First and foremost the scents are phenomenal and taste like the real thing as promised on the label. For performance, they start out solid then once applied melt on the lips and I haven't had an annoying breakouts with this formula, which is fantastic. If I had to rate them overall, I would say they are the upper middle of better formulas I have tried. They nicely moisturize, but I don't think I would use them for the harsh winter months when I need a balm with moderate repairing properties. For me, they are more suited for light work if that makes sense and I will enjoy these Lip Butters spring and summer and early fall. Onto the scents and er taste compositions! Campfire Tales (S'mores galore! Scootch up to the campfire and get out your roasting stick packed with marshmallows toasted to perfection and sandwiched between buttery graham crackers and creamy milk chocolate) Just as promised this is ooey-gooey marshmallow, realistic chocolate, a swirl of campfire smoke and BUTTERY graham cracker. It tastes like the real thing and yes I want to eat the contents. These are just a pure delight to experience so I will definitely collecting the different flavours with every release. Absinthe Marshmallow Cream (All the green goodness of Absinthe with the fluffy light as feather treat of Marshmallow cream!) My loves all in one delicious confection. Mmm. This one is amazing if you love the herbal bite of absinthe sweetened with marshmallow. Another curious blend and blind purchase that was an instant favourite. I hope Absinthe Marshmallow Cream returns in 2020. Dusting Powder in The Rumpkin! (Delicious pumpkin goodies with a twist of fresh sweet lavender essential oil) I hope everyone isn't tired of me gushing about The Rumpkin! because here's another new item for my vanity table all in my favourite pumpkin and lavender scent. I feel I'm reconnecting or channeling a lost portion of myself when I use these products such as dusting powders and if you want to feel fancy grab a canister and shake shake to be swept away or be reminded of a time of luxury and self pampering. I should have purchased dusting powder years ago as this is a marvellous experience that just leaves my skin silky soft and smelling like a delicate brush of spiced pumpkin and lavender. For more personal reasons why I adore this formula, it doesn't cake no how much I use at one time, it keeps unwanted dampness away in the unforgiving heat and helps with annoying rubbing from undergarments. I want to savor this canister as long as possible and only allow an indulgence every Sunday before a full week of night work. I have a feeling here is another collection in the making as I want this powder in all my favourite scents by MoonaLisa. Pumpkin Lavender sugar scrub I was determined with this release to explore as many various skin potions and self pampering items as I could and I have had my eye on a jar of Moona's sugar scrub for over a year. Right on opening a magnificent mixture of spice, fruit and sugared herbs hit my nose and I couldn't wait to use this formula. How very curious to note that Pumpkin Lavender smells like delectable Apple Jacks (or Jax depending on your age) cereal and a bit of butter. I wasn't expecting that, but overall what a wonderful surprise. For this mixture the sugar is fine granulated adding just enough exfoliating effect to tackle stubborn rough heels and elbows. The scent lasts even when I leave the tub and admire how soft my skin is with only 20 minutes with this jar. I will be repurchasing this scrub as well just as soon as I put a dent in this one. The jar is very generous which I greatly appreciate. Another item worth every penny! Sparkle Spray in Campfire Tales Cream (no listed notes but it smells exactly like the lip butter with a touch more campfire smoke and graham cracker) *Appeared in my first order, thank you, MoonaLisa! My dark-hearted little self has few weaknesses that I can list and one of those are ANYTHING that is sparkly and plainly speaking this spray is plain delightful entertainment as with one spritz and my arms are covered in a nostalgic twinkling fragrant happiness. It's impossible to be in a bad mood or in a negative frame of mind with this spray. I want every perfume I own to have a sparkle-filled double. I hope this is a permanent option in the coming collections. I would purchase a gallon size of Aurelia in this spray. Name your price, Moona; I must have more of these sparkle sprays! Absinthe Marshmallow perfume oil bottle (All the green goodness of Absinthe with the fluffy light as feather treat of Marshmallow cream!) This is everything I was hoping it would be. The absinthe is true and has that seductive herbal spice you get with licorice or star anise and the marshmallow is soft and powdery that morphs 6 to 8 hours into a buttery vanilla caramel scent that brings to mind Snow Ice. This could very well be a sister scent of that Yule wonder. Fingers crossed Absinthe Marshmallow returns next fall in the hair detanglers option. I want to waltz about with a halo of this glorious comforting green fragrance all year long. I'm thankful I listened to the reviews on this sweet green gem, another distinct corner of my collection now complete. Crone's Cottage perfume oil sample (Everything you would expect from an elder wisewoman's lair! Smoking embers, delicious cakes and breads baking, hanging bushels of botanicals and herbs.) *One of the many surprises tucked away in this second order, thank you so much, Moona! I believe Crone's Cottage was a new blend for 2019 and fingers and toes crossed it returns in 2020 because plain and simple it's an awesome spice and herb bomb! THIS is what I sorely wanted another extremely popular perfume from another shop to smell like on me and was hoping it would conjure- the vision of a true wisewoman's cottage deep in the shadowed forests. Crone's Cottage is straight out of a fairytale realm with the distinct aroma of realistic cakes and goodies laced with herbs that could be used to curse a first born or tempt a prince or king in the doorway to sign away his soul. Hours later, I get something resembling pepper and vanilla that continues to fascinate and delight me (it smells so good!). I adore this fragrance and will be keeping an eye out for its hopeful return. I want Crone's Cottage in a detangler, argan oil and if I start saving now, a few bath products and dusting powder. Witchery soap bar (Sultry ambers, woods and magic!) *Thank you so much Moona! You are the best💜 I'm using the "Pick Your Poison" sticker on my name badge at work🎃 The above sad attempts don't do this soap justice. It's stunning artistry with the marbling and colour shifts and yes, I'm talking about a soap bar. This is a lost art, it really is and I can't get over how pretty Witchery is in presentation and fragrance. I tried to capture the glitter and dried little lavender buds and rose petals embedded on top, but it looks only muddled in a photograph (one of these days I'll take a decent picture). Take it from me Witchery is something to display and show off. It also dimly glows in the dark; did I mention that? YES, this soap flipping GLOWS with some ghostly magic in the pitch dark and this is a first for me. I didn't even know that was possible! The scent is exactly as promised being a sultry rich amber (and possibly a little unlisted dill?) Ultra-nifty effects and presentation aside, I'm thrilled to report my finicky skin plays nice with Moona's soap. I missed out of Sea Witch this last round, that will not be happening again Halloween 2020 (The Rumpkin! I'm coming for yooou!) MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean One Note at a Time: A trove of Nui Cobalt Designs blends and my first purchase from Ajevie1/26/2020
Nui Cobalt Designs and Ajevie Reviews composed in October and November 2019 It's finally that most wonderful time of the year when I step out in style in everything pumpkin, moon named or vampire and werewolf inspired and here I present to you a few thoughts on a fine selection of elegant and delectable long-lasting blends I have been wearing to welcome in my favourite season right. *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. One Note at a Time: Silver Bullet (A swift banishment blend to dispel anger, frustration, and any feral lunacy that muddles the mind. Wolf musk accord with wild white currant, chilled clary sage, dried lavender, lime leaves, and a subtle hint of almond bark infused with homegrown hyssop, lemon verbena, and white peppercorn. Wear this soothing potion in stressful situations or when you feel the stirrings of the savage beast within.) I may not be able to detect any wolf musk in Silver Bullet, but I sure can smell and deeply inhale the garden-fresh energized lemon verbena which is front and center on the opening and melds so perfectly with the supporting listed notes creating the unmistakable scent of "metal under cold moonlight or gentle shimmery water at night" when I allow my imagination to take wing. A very aptly named creation and this is a fragrance for a moon child or water sign. I adore this chilled herbal citrus blend and would love a full bottle eventually. For longevity, Silver Bullet lasts around 9 to 10 hours and the scent stays close becoming one of those perfect sleep scent potions or one to grab for some meditative night wandering. Blood Curse (A protection blend that is not to be trifled with. Sicilian figs, oak-aged Bordeaux, Tunisian incense, blackcurrant preserves, Louisiana pralines, tart dried cherry, a spritz of red grapefruit and smooth sanguine musk. Wear to send any jinx or malefaction back to where it came from. It's been known to bring swift and severe punishment to those of ill intent.) With a name like Blood Curse and the above description, this was one vial I couldn't wait to add to my collection and wow it doesn't disappoint. On application, this is sweet and oaky cherry wine that then morphs slowly to a tart grapefruit deepened by beautiful smoky incense which lasts hours and surprisingly it is all extremely wearable in the professional setting. Here is another blend that stays close and I feel I have this "aura" around me or have a glowing blood-red jewel at my throat. Blood Curse is a must try if you love realistic fruit blends that carry a bit of unique mystique to them. Au Bal Masqué (The sheer, spectral scent of elegant ghosts waltzing through the haunted halls of an abandoned palace. Nepalese virgin cashmere, cotton flower, vanilla spun sugar, labdanum, and the wafting memory of white funeral lilies. Wear this scent to attract benevolent spirits and to honor the beloved dead.) I must admit when this vial arrived, "ghost laundry" which was pretty and eerie (but a tad out of my comfort zone) immediately came to mind however a week later Au Bal Masqué morphed into a cotton candy/candy floss/spun sugar perfume I can pull off and wear! It's lovely with a realistic lily in the background with a sheer sweetened non-foody wistful vanilla on top that I recognize from Starlight & Spider Silk and the unique cotton flower from Little Brown Rabbit. It's almost cold and ethereal smelling with a hint of powderiness that adds to the scent story of a haunted masked ball scene. The only lilies I'm familiar with are Easter Lilies so I asked a garden obsessed coworker what she thought and she told me I smelled like Stargazer Lilies with a realistic slight fruitiness to this blend I didn't notice until she pointed it out. Nearly 12 hours later this morphs to warm spun sugar (and a touch of hidden greenery) which is somehow not childish nor cloying smelling and I get a dainty music box playing a haunting melody when I let my mind wander or something to be found in the ghostly court of Marie Antoinette. Entombed (An Autumnal sleeping spell to rival our acclaimed Tryptophan. Cemetary stones enshrouded in mist, wild English lavender, rain, and freshly turned earth. Wear this scent before going to bed for restorative rest and pleasant dreams.) I've commented before about how much I love this shop's lavender and Entombed is another oil to recommend for those searching for the "perfect lavender" perfume. The herb is smooth and inviting and as you bring your nose closer the stone and mist appears taking you away to an abandoned scenic countryside you don't want to leave and it gets even better when a hidden petrichor note manifests slowly like a building thunderstorm over the scene. When it comes to the choice between Tryptophan and Entombed, it's a tie for me. I enjoy both for different reasons. In both, I get an unlisted caramel scent while with Entombed the mysterious woody mint-like note that amps on me in Tryptophan is replaced with a wet earth mixture. Honestly, it doesn't matter which I choose because both give the most important gift which is a fully restorative sleep with pleasant dreams. Exhumed (An earthy manifestation blend for bringing your wishes into material reality. Fig trees, moss-covered mahogany, black patchouli infused with High John the Conqueror root, smoked vetiver, lichen and stone. Wear to attract abundance or anoint green candles in rituals for wealth.) This is wild, dirty and masculine with a genteel side and blame what I'm currently reading, but I can't help thinking Exhumed as a lordly fragrance or the scent of a master of his manor. For note identification, I don't get any fig on application, but I do get warm sensual mahogany with patchouli that shifts to a smoky moss and the drydown is a combination of stone, wood and smoke. As Exhumed is aging, there may also be a drop of sandalwood that peeks through after an hour. Although I mentioned this oil being "dirty", it is strangely "clean" smelling at the same time without resembling soap. It's all-around refined with a feral side and I want to hand this out on the corner to all single men. Exsanguinated (A vampiric fragrance for seduction and allure. Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smouldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses. Wear when in pursuit of prey or add to love-drawing baths to amplify their power.) Exsanguinated is exactly as promised on the tin, it's smoky, boozy, dark and dangerously seductive and I feel like I'm channelling Theda Bara in all her prowling magnetic glory when I don it. This is the fragrance of a pale claw-like hand reaching out in the dark to caress a lover (or new victim) and the drydown resembles a flickering black and white screen, I can't fully explain it, but Exsanguinated is one nifty perfume that I can't recommend enough to those who seek some darkness and confidence. Longevity is about 12 hours for me and others have commented I smell like smouldering roses, mahogany and dragon's blood. Exorcised (A bracing purification blend to cleanse yourself and your space. Snow-covered spruce, rock moss, chilled Earl Grey and pale frankincense. Anoint your pulse points to banish negativity or add a few drops to an oil diffuser to cleanse and protect your home.) With every vial from this amazing shop, I learn something new about myself and my skin chemistry and with Exorcised I have learned I amp moss and sweet resins while spruce fades within seconds and sadly the Earl Grey turns to an overly clean combination that resembles my experience with Giulia. Out of all the vials this round, Exorcised faded the quickest, but I must say it is a lovely oil to add to the diffuser. I'm curious what others' impressions are of this blend. On the right skin chemistry, I bet this would be incredible. Oh well, can't win them all (and my pocketbook sighs in relief). Drunk Pumpkin (A boozy scent to honor the spirits and celebrate the change of seasons. An oversized pumpkin punchbowl filled with hot apple cider, Caribbean dark rum, Tennessee whiskey, cinnamon sticks, ginger root and a twist of lemon. Wear when navigating life's big changes, and to summon help from beyond the Veil.) And now it is time for this self-confessed Pumpkin Whore to go wild. Oooh, Drunk Pumpkin take me away! That realistic spiked apple cider note is the star of this perfume and the creamy pumpkin with a hint of maple puts this oil on the top tier for favourite fragrances this year. I must admit, apple is a hard sell for me and I'm a bit picky, but Drunk Pumpkin has seriously impressed me and now I'm regretting not grabbing Cauldron Cider or not having anywhere fun to wear this I could crash and start dancing on the tables (it is the season of mischief and a bit of debauchery after all). Baby Pumpkin (A scent to inspire sweetness and affection. Homemade maple pumpkin bread with Autumn harvest honey, spiced with nutmeg and clove, drizzled with salted caramel, and dotted with Turkish apricot. Wear when you're in the mood for gentle hugs, earnest compliments, and warm appreciation.) Baby Pumpkin morphs and shifts differently on my skin versus hair and at the end of the night, I get warm golden honey, caramel, nutmeg, a hidden sandalwood note and maple on my skin and sweet candied apricot, maple and pumpkin in my hair that all accompany me home. I like this and have worn this oil quite a bit to work, but I'm not sure if I need a bottle this year (on the long dry down it reminds me of MoonaLisa's Cauldron Cakes which I ordered a bottle of at the last release). Mmm, Baby Pumpkin is so good though. I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey accords. Why does everything from this collection have to smell so amazing?! Wicked Pumpkin (A sexy potion that's sure to make you the belle of any masquerade ball. Sandalwood musk and dark patchouli with maple sugar, peach skin, cardamom, and freshly baked pumpkin pie. Wear to awaken your inner temptress and ensnare the object of your desire.) In my hair Wicked Pumpkin lives up to its name and I smell like one tasty and alluring dish with spiced fruits, sandalwood, pumpkin, patchouli and inviting maple sugar, but alas my skin chemistry has found a new note to torment me with and it is peach of all things which morphs to full-on cat urine on my skin. I had suspected peach was a death note for myself quite a while and Wicked Pumpkin just confirmed it and I'm now searching for a scent locket. In the meantime into unscented whipped soap Wicked Pumpkin goes so I can lavish my locks and turn some heads when the wind blows and howls this season. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Pumpkin Cupcake (A comforting scent to ease your mind and soothe your nerves. Whipped white pumpkin between layers of angel food cake, marshmallow frosting, and a light dusting of allspice. Wear in times of stress to keep a level head and a positive attitude.) I haven't had the pleasure to smell angel food cake since my Baba passed away and I can tell you Pumpkin Cupcake is an old fashioned fluffy angel food cake with added buttery allspice pumpkin frosting and maybe even a drop of coconut and sandalwood? Interestingly enough I don't get any marshmallow on my skin and I wouldn't call Pumpkin Cupcake a true gourmand, it's more of a quasi-blend that still satisfies those with a sweet tooth or anyone who has been desiring a bit of nostalgia. Flaming Pumpkin (A powerful prosperity blend to quickly draw abundant wealth and success. Two types of patchouli, fresh ginger root, woodsmoke, burnt brown sugar, and Jarrahdale pumpkin pureed with nutmeg and a spritz of blood orange. Anoint green or gold candles to add oomph to your money spells, or wear when you're ready to ask for that raise.) Flaming Pumpkin is probably the closest I'll get to smelling like a pile of beautiful burning maple leaves and mashed pumpkin with nutmeg in the forest (I get unlisted warm sandalwood in this blend and the drydown is earthy and relaxing). This one is also super comforting and great for sleep or puttering around the house. In regards to longevity, Flaming Pumpkin clocks in at 12 hours on my skin and 20 hours in my curls. I don't get any aggressive ginger or immediate scent of blood orange. Another keeper and unique pumpkin blend for my collection. Ginger Cat (A playful blend to banish malaise, lift your spirits, and ignite vitality. Crystallized ginger and raisins baked into warm pumpkin bread with caramel drizzle, candied orange peel, homemade apricot jam and the subtlest sprinkle of cardamom. Wear this cozy perfume when you need to shake off the doldrums and brighten your mood.) Ginger Cat brings to mind a secret soft orange cookie recipe I make every year that was my great-grandmother's and I can't stop huffing my wrists when it is applied. On me, the sweetened orange peel with apricot amps and I don't get any thick spiced bread or pumpkin. This is an energizing and invigorating mashup of notes and this indeed brightens my mood and feels cosy all at the same time. For longevity, Ginger Cat disappears relatively quickly on me, but I can still get very faint traces of it at 5 to 6 hours in the crooks of my arms. I can see why this is a seasonal favourite. Black Cat (A traditional folk magic blend for fast luck and abundant blessing. Darkly sweet pipe tobacco, blackcurrant, and chai spices amid the swirling smoke of sacred nag champa and myrrh. Wear this dusky potion to invoke protection and great fortune.) Black Cat is slightly smoky fruit laced with incense and I keep picking up something reminding me of brewed spiced berry tea. It's lovely and indeed mysterious and magnetic like a black cat. This would be amazing in a candle or shampoo. I wish it lasted longer on my skin. Gate of Autumn (The air turns electric as daylight hours wane toward the tipping-point of the year. This evocative blend is a paean to the Autumnal Equinox, a time of transformation. It evokes the bountiful blessings of the season, attracting prosperity, fulfilment, and great fortune. Woodland notes of wild fig, ancient oak, scarlet maple leaves and viscous dark resin.) Oh, Gate of Autumn has that incredibly realistic maple leaves accord that I fell for hard in Flaming Pumpkin and Liv. However, with this oil more resins come forward and I recognize palo santo under patchouli and the maple leaves. I wore Gate of Autumn for the last full moon and this is a lovely blend for meditative wanderings late at night. It's not heavy and stays close to the skin. Final observation to mention, I also think my chemistry devours fig and amps the maple with palo santo in Gate of Autumn. The Veil is Thin (A potion for seances, mediumship, and communing with the ancestors. Chilled opalescent musk entwined with sheer vanilla orchid, white heliotrope, and pale citrus infused with mugwort, borage, and blue yarrow. Wear this diaphanous scent to walk between the worlds and speak with the spirits. Anoint white or purple candles to heighten psychic sensitivity.) The above is dead on with the "sheer" description as The Veil is Thin is another aptly named creation. This smells gauzy and wistful without being overpowering with the citrus and heliotrope. It's nicely balanced and can be called "your skin but better" type of fragrance. I will be wearing The Veil is Thin when I attend various supernatural-themed events this season. I must also note, Nui Cobalt Designs showcases vanilla wonderfully and my chemistry and nose both approve. Crown of Hecate 2018 (Enchanted on the day of the Solar Eclipse in the 21st degree of Cancer, this blend evokes the ancient mysteries of the Sacred Feminine in her dark aspect. Moonflower and myrrh over almond milk tea, shining white amber, and a pillow of sheer vanilla. Wear this potent blend to invoke the Goddess and to inspire Her divinity within you. It is particularly supportive of people in crisis, survivors of abuse, and defenders of socio-economic equity.) I get this lovely warm buttery glow that smells like a bit of almonds, floral and something like smooth liquid silk with this blend and I'm falling for these "your skin but better" creations from Nui Cobalt Designs (they stay close, but feel incredibly elegant and personal). As Crown of Hecate (2018) dries, gorgeous vanilla amber and powder from the moonflower and myrrh appears and I need more recommendations please for another perfume by Nui Cobalt Designs with amber with vanilla. I want.them.all! Starlight & Spider Silk (Swift and skillful, her instinct's artistry glimmers with deadly precision. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans.) I don't know how Forest did it, but this is the scent of clear gossamer swaying in the breeze and morning dewdrops with elegant vanilla. On me, there is something nearly floral and creamy about Starlight & Spider Silk (don't you love all of these poetic and perfectly matched names?) and I do believe this perfume will be my next purchase. I don't have anything to compare this oil to currently in my vast collection. Wow, this is stunning and I can't help but think of waltzing spirits and one song in particular when I have Starlight & Spider Silk dabbed all over. I can expect 12 hours of sophisticated perfection with this perfume and couldn't have asked for more. In addition to elegant perfume blends that I love to accompany me to the workplace setting and events, Nui Cobalt Designs offers a wide assortment of fragrant sundries and you know I just had to indulge and start collecting. Waipio Valley Soy Candle (The Valley of the Kings is adorned with towering waterfalls, a crescent black sand beach, and a palpable primal energy. This sacred space has survived two tsunamis without a single casualty. Dark myrrh and vetiver, sand-smoothed teak wood, kava kava, rain-drenched ti leaves, and a subtle touch of dry coconut husk. Burn this mysterious candle to wrap yourself in fiercely loving protection, ward off malicious energy and restore a sense of security.) Waipio Valley is a creamy fresh smell with a calming mysterious woody aroma I can't place, but I enjoy and would repurchase. This candle has definitely strengthened in terms of throw as I can detect it as I'm typing at the Kitchen table and I just adore the cosy atmosphere it is creating. I'm not usually a "clean and fresh" sort of collector, but I would get a vial of Waipio Valley to wear and repurchase this candle (Nui Cobalt Designs is changing my mind about certain scent profiles). Beltane Fires Bath Spell (A sensual bathing potion to celebrate the Pagan sabbat of fertility, pleasure, and earthly delights. Smoldering maple wood and birch bark, honeycakes with toasted almond and nectarine, piquant ginger and the faintest trace of understated patchouli.) Ingredients: Epsom salt, iodized salt, red Alea salt, sodium bicarbonate, corn starch, organic ginger root powder, fragrance. 1.5 oz mini jar. After falling hard for Nui Cobalt's honey and smoky maple wood accords I knew I NEEDED this bath spell in my collection and first impressions the scent upon opening the jar is divine, being sweet and fruity with just a hint of wood smoke. Needless to say after that brief session of making embarrassing noises while sniffing the jar, I raced off to the bathtub with Beltane Fires and the honey fruit scent wafted gently around my bathroom for as long as it took me to run the hot water. In comparing this formula to other bath treats I've tried, the scent is delicate and doesn't cling to my skin long, however, the ingredients are very skin loving and I could definitely notice my arms were less tight and it worked wonderfully on my painful muscles and joints. Saying all that, I do have to address that the jar is TINY, I guess I didn't realize what 1.5oz meant and was a bit shocked at the size of this adorable glass jar (complete for a darling bow when it arrived); luckily a sprinkle or two is all I need so even after a few months the mini container is half full and in the end, I would repurchase Beltane Fires in the bath spell and perfume format. Hex Breaker Bath Spell (Banish malefaction and ill will with this powerful purification ritual. Lemon, angelica, eucalyptus, dill, and sage are brightened by blackberry and grounded in dark patchouli, pipe tobacco, and vetiver.) Ingredients: Epsom salt, Kosher salt, Hawaiian black lava salt, sodium bicarbonate, dill weed, angelica powder, fragrance. 4.5 inch corked vial (12 cm) roughly 1.8 oz weight *a free gift I found nestled in with my order, thank you so much, Nui Cobalt Designs! I know it shouldn't matter and it sounds silly, but I love this vial bottle! It's shaped as a test tube and even has a cork topper and I feel like I'm about to conduct some kind of naughty forbidden experiment when I uncork and sprinkle the black, gray and white granules into the running bath. The scent of intoxicating eucalyptus hits me nose first along with light lemon and that fragrance turns almost recognizable as peppermint when it hits the water. It's soothing and calming plus loves my skin and again it shouldn't matter, but it's entertaining to shake and combine the colours in the vial. It almost looks like exotic sand. Yes, I'm easily amused and yes, I would purchase this for myself or a friend. Hex Breaker is a conversation starter from the presentation to the unique fragrance. Here's another collection of incredible scent art that only leads me deeper into the indie rabbit hole and ultimately introduced me to a new turn in the warren tunnels (the opportunity to purchase decants from across the indie realm). *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. Exsanguinated (A vampiric fragrance for seduction and allure. Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smouldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses. Wear when in pursuit of prey or add to love-drawing baths to amplify their power.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Please allow this smoky, boozy, dark and dangerously seductive number to take another bow and feel free to come closer as this is truly the scent of gothic beauty and even holds the ability to take my dreams to some unexpected vivid places. I can't recommend Exsanguinated enough for those who seek some darkness and confidence. *Full bottle purchased Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with soft vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. Ah! It's a Pre-Raphaelite painting in a bottle. Just magnificent! Brava! Scythe of Saturn (Crafted under the auspices of Saturn's direct station in his domicile of Capricorn, this sacred oil invokes the virtues of patience, diligence, maturity, responsibility, and wisdom. Metal and myrrh, ancient oak and blue spruce, bay laurel and Earl Grey. Wear when you need the inner strength and self-discipline to cut away what no longer serves you.) *this sample arrived with my purchased bottle of Exsanguinated In the vial, Scythe of Saturn is an enchanting combination of realistic spruce and myrrh that brings to mind a dark evergreen forest and shifting bitter winds. When applied though, the spruce disappears almost immediately and I'm greeted by a cosy and creamy meditative blending of myrrh and realistic smelling tea that plays nice with my chemistry (LOVE Nui Cobalt's tea blends) along with a hint of metal at the base. Absolutely another keeper. Pele's Fire (An ode to the primordial volcano goddess who creates as she destroys. Sacred ʻōhelo berry, torch ginger, ʻōhiʻa flower, lehua honey, skin musk, and woodsmoke.) Mark this blending down for a list of unfamiliar notes that creates one fiery sweet smokey gem I could huff all night. My inner shimmery amber dragon is pleased with the luscious woodsmoked honey that amps and stays for 10+ hours. The mysterious berry and warm citrus-like ginger are present dancing in the background, but Pele's Fire belongs to the exotic flames entwined with sweetness from the honey my skin attaches to. Here's another unique stunner in my vast collection and one my inner dragon wishes to hoard away next year. Ghost Cat (A fuzzy phantasm to guide and guard you as you pierce the Veil. Cashmere, white amber, and ethereal ivory musk with blushing peony and pink peppercorn toe beans. Wear this spectral scent to call upon the aid of friendly spirits. Anoint white or lavender candles in rituals of divination or mediumship.) Nui Cobalt Designs has one fantastic way with romantic ambers and Ghost Cat is another scent potion that beautifully showcases this shop's handling of sophistication and bringing to our noses something that smells insanely expensive while at the same time making this scent personal as it hugs the skin. I don't know how Forest does it, but here is another perfume that fits right into the office setting and could set off an elegant designer gown. I want to call Ghost Cat another "clean floral", however, it's so much more than that. On me, I get the bright peony that morphs slowly into this soft powdery amber with a hint of pepper. It's so intriguing and fancy smelling. Ghost Cat has found a place next to Starlight & Spider Silk, Au Bal Masqué, Love and Mourning Veil on my vanity. Manta Ray (Fathomless blue grace under moonlit waves. Iced blueberry tea, cold salt water, and bubbles glistening through ambergris accord. Wear this dark aquatic scent to connect with your deep intuitive voice. It is particularly helpful during dreamwork and divination.) In the vial I get tropical Bubblicious bubblegum I remember chomping down on at football games in high school but holy crow does this beauty morph on my skin and become fizzy/bubble saltwater with realistic blueberry (this shop's blueberry accord is perfect) and I'm in love. Ooh, you know what this reminds me of? Sixteen92's Habanera only with blueberry and salt. There is a hidden floral note drifting slowly to the midground and I definitely recognize the blueberry from Grey Cat in Manta Ray. An hour later a surprise wisp of smoke or ashes slowly rises catching my full attention and my applause. Well marking down another bottle to grab for next summer. This blueberry fancy water fragrance needs to come home to me. First Harvest: Grain (Acres full of sunlight, tall and bountiful, a golden expanse of promise. The earthy scent of oatstraw and hay drying in the late-summer fields. Wear this scent to attract abundance and manifest wealth. Anoint copper pennies and bury to the East of your home to sow the seeds of prosperity.) Exactly as it says on the tin! I get sunwarmed hay and straw, the shifting colours of golds and brown you see in country fields. It even has that magical "buttery" scent present you get with oatstraw (and now Sting's Fields of Gold is playing in my head on repeat). First Harvest: Grain makes me homesick and I found another vial to treasure. For those curious, this is a fabulous oil to layer to create some comforting depth to different perfumes. Favorite Sweater (The perfect balance of cool and cozy. White oak and blonde teakwood, copal resin, crushed coriander, lamb's wool accord, a touch of creamy chai, and a spritz of green mandarin. Wear when you need comfort and a sense of security.) I know this oil is listed under the Autumn collection, but Favorite Sweater takes me immediately to winter and I'm wearing a big fuzzy pale green sweater by a roaring fire. To be honest, it reminds me so much of a beloved pale green soft sweater I wore until it fell apart, haha, so this scent potion is aptly named. I know nutmeg is not listed, but I swear I smell something very similar to nutmeg in this, perhaps it is the coriander or chai? I know where Favorite Sweater is going in my box and I hope this scent returns next year. The last batch I'm about to ramble about came from Ajevie and was my first (but certainly not last) purchase from them. Excellent customer service practices to be found on this helpful site and I'm very pleased with the sizes of the "slinks" and "slonks" (terms of measurement of the vials and little screw top bottles they sell) I purchased as I have plenty of oils to test in each vial and ampule. I also have to mention the professional-looking labels that have the name of the perfume in an eye-catching font and the list of the description of notes attached on the slinks (you know that all took time to do and I greatly appreciate the extra touches). Bad Moon Rising (A gentle protection blend to carry your through the tough times. Wild violets, Adirondack blueberries, star anise, blackcurrants preserved in maple sugar with clove and a touch of almond. Wear during inauspicious astrological events or bouts of plain "bad luck." It has a talent for steering the winds of fortune in a more helpful direction.) I always feel like I'm playing Russian Roulette when I dab on anything with violets listed, but I'm happy to report Bad Moon Rising is another surprise winner for me! This blend opens with my ultimate note weakness being star anise and it is brilliantly swirled with realistic blueberries then violets softly waltz through creating a spicy fruit powdery-floral collage that all makes me huff my wrists with no headaches or any nausea to jot down. Another spin on the indie realm chamber ending in unexpected smiles and now I'm eyeing Olympe de Gouges hard for more lovely violets to collect from this charming shop's scent library. Appalachian Autumn (An homage to the Nature Spirits. Deer musk accord, campfire smoke, birch trees, angelica, ripe pears and rain. Wear to align your energy with that of the wilderness to invoke its many blessings. It's particularly soothing and supportive through the changing of the seasons.) I truly hoped this oil would make me burst into a severely off key rendition of John Denver's classic "Take Me Home, Country Roads" but sadly Appalachian Autumn was my least favourite out of this batch. On me, it resembles masculine soap and expensive smelling cologne. I don't get any highly anticipated pears, smoke or any atmospheric element on my skin. Perhaps it would fare better in my curls or in a whipped soap? I knew my wonky skin chemistry would get me sooner or later with one of these blends. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Mourning Veil (Somber elegance with a touch of mystery. Melancholy layers of black vanilla bean, white sandalwood, petrichor, tear-stained taffeta, suede gloves and a silk-lined mahogany coffin. Wear this gothic bouquet to soothe a weary heart and ease sadness. Add a drop or two to the bath when you need to release negative feelings and restore emotional equilibrium.) This is strangely beautiful and one hard to put down fragrance once a surprise element appears that creates one flipping gorgeous gothic scene complete with a gauzy black veil. I said it before and I'll say it again, I don't know how Forest does it. I never knew how much I adore sandalwood until I tried Nui Cobalt and I'm officially a collector of that note now. I chose wisely with picking up Mourning Veil despite my fears of certain notes listed, the suede note is soft on me as well as the mahogany (what wonderful scent sorcery is this?). Here's another keeper and one that tells one lovely creepy scent story. Pale As Death (Wan and bloodless phantoms move forlorn among the headstones. Funeral lilies, datura accord, luna moths on cotton flowers, and white clover along a graveyard path. Wear this conciliatory potion for support in times of sadness. It is particularly helpful through the process of grieving.) Au Bal Masqué, is that you? This fragrance smells so similar on me and yet more of the cotton flower amps, making me think of ghost laundry. The distinct clover is there hiding in the background and I wish it came more forward and I don't get the gothic bouquet I was hoping for. Still, Pale As Death is a nice sister scent of Au Bal Masqué and I will use what is in the vial while dreaming of owning a full bottle of the blend that smells it belongs in the ghostly court of Marie Antoinette. Trembling Aspen (Among the first trees to change color, it exchanges subdued green for a bright, buttery yellow that complements the afternoon light. But perhaps its most distinguishing feature is the rapid, fluttering movement of its leaves. Flat leaf stalks give the Trembling Aspen's foliage a unique quiver in the breeze, seeming to sparkle in the long shadows of September. Sunflower petals, delicate strands of saffron, crystallized ginger, and candied kumquat. Wear this scintillating scent to evoke courage and confidence.) Trembling Aspen was a last-minute addition to my basket and wow am I pleased with this blend! As much as I love Bad Moon Rising, Trembling Aspen takes the coveted spot for number one pick out of this batch from Ajevie. I'm still training my nose so I can't identify the saffron, however, I do get sunflower petals rubbed between my hands, ginger and candied fruit that I'm guessing is the kumquat. There may also be some unlisted oakstraw in this as I detect that mysterious "buttery" quality in this that can be found in the fields late summer and First Harvest: Grain. The description of Trembling Aspen is dead-on as this smells like a golden tree in autumn. Instant love and recommendation. Nui Cobalt Designs and Ajevie Art & Accents: A Winter's Ball (Pride, Prejudice & Perfume) The Netherfield Ballroom soy candle12/27/2019
The Netherfield Ballroom Soy Candle by Nui Cobalt Designs. 6oz tin. (Scent notes: An elegant illumination with notes of white leather, sheer muslin, raw silk, and a petite bouquet of pink spray roses, English lavender, and lily of the valley.) I couldn't think of a better farewell to our journey into this collaboration of scent and beauty than lighting an atmospheric candle and Nui Cobalt Designs has presented one exquisite step back in time with this blend that on opening holds a heady mixture of powder, English lavender and soft leather which all beckons me to come closer and inhale a fragrant vintage wandering into the pages of a true classic. Once lit, the roses along with an impression of "cool to the touch" fabrics appear and my bedroom is transformed into a glittering ballroom in 1811 and even in this imaginary world I'm a wallflower who prefers to curl up with a good book in the corner while others dance in elegant lines, bowing and dipping and the light flickers all along as the pages turn. The Netherfield Ballroom is simply stunning to say the least (even catching the positive attention of my mother who never compliments my indie discoveries when she visits) and is another bouquet of notes I would dearly wish to purchase in a perfume bottle or hair product. It is probably no surprise The Netherfield Ballroom was one of my top picks and one I highly recommend especially if you love powder, florals and a candle that tempts you to come closer and enjoy just one more chapter or learn something about the early 19th century. *The A Winter's Ball (Pride, Prejudice & Perfume) collection is currently available for purchase **A sincere thank you to Andrea from Sucreabeille for allowing me access to this collection, it was a pleasure to ramble about this special themed box and explore scent and cosmetic artistry with you all. The Gentlemen of Derbyshire Hair Oil by Libertine Bath Haus .1oz glass bottle. (Scent notes: Tobacco leaf, leather, regal clove, and warm oakwood.) Ingredients: Avocado oil, Argan oil, meadow foam seed oil, jojoba, sweet almond, apricot kernel seed oil, grapeseed, fragrance, Vit E We've had the pleasure to get well acquainted with inspired fragrances of the main characters of Pride and Prejudice now let us get to know the scents about the complex love interests of several sisters of Bennet, Bingley and surrounding county households. First up is Libertine Bath Haus's The Gentlemen of Derbyshire and on application, this is a slightly smoky and somehow smooth tobacco and clove dominant blend in my curls with sweet leather lingering in the background. Ah! There is nothing like the rich elegant scent of tobacco in various forms and The Gentlemen of Derbyshire nicely showcases that note. In terms of the longevity of the aroma of fresh tobacco, warm clove and leather, it is sadly short-lived (nearly an hour and a half), however, the shine that follows from a small application of this oil is not. I'm already familiar with this shop's hair care product formula and for me, it can be a touch drying if I use it right after washing my hair with say whipped soap so I save it and only use a few drops at a time when the natural oils begin to build up too much (my hair type is a mixture of dry and oily). It seems to soak up the grease and adds an incredibly healthy shine to my waist-length locks. Another keeper! Truth Universally Acknowledged EDP by Deconstructing Eden. 5ml bottle (Scent notes: Rosewood and mahogany bookshelves, Russian leather chairs, a simple eau de cologne of English lavender, Bergamot, and fougere accord, a glass of cognac, a river of scotch, and tobacco absolute.) It's the infamous opening to Pride and Prejudice: "It is a truth universally acknowledged, that a single man in possession of a good fortune, must be in want of a wife." and here we have an...how do I put this as ladylike as possible? An extremely seductive interpretation of the above quote and one that materializes a debonair scent character right from the bottle you would never want to leave if you met him in real life. This is a cultured fragrance with a lavender forward opening on me and in the bottle is a rich leather, bergamot and booze heavy blend. I could happily sniff the bottle all day and can't stop spritzing myself to get that burst of herbal spice with the lavender, antique rosewood and the smoky tobacco absolute that appears after a few moments. Curiously after about 10 minutes, Truth Universally Acknowledged sweetens on my skin becoming almost floral (with a backing of leather and tobacco) so if anyone was wondering this perfume is unexpectedly unisex and overall extremely wearable (lavender is so wonderfully versatile). Longevity overall varies for me, about 10 hours on my skin and much longer in my hair and on my clothes. It was no surprise Truth Universally Acknowledged was one of my top picks from the A Winter's Ball (Pride, Prejudice & Perfume) collection; I can't recommend this perfume enough. Sharing Notes of Interest and surrounding mysteries: Another entertaining mystery stemming from the pages of Pride & Prejudice is: Who was the inspiration of Mr. Fitzwilliam Darcy? Every year many theories to names are introduced as suspects, my personal favourite possible personality is an Irish politician and Judge named Thomas Lefroy. It may have been a short-lived flirtation (one of swirling holiday balls and dances in December 1795) between Austen and Lefroy and not exactly as deep a romantic connection such as Elizabeth and Mr. Darcy shared in the end but, you know what they say, you never forget your first attraction and there is always truth in everything (and letters do still survive between Jane Austen and her sister Cassandra that mention Lefroy in a puzzling light). So it is quite possible that the complex character we all have come to love through the generations could have very well been based on Thomas Lefroy (I hate speculation but it is sure fun to debate and think about, don't you agree?) *In 2007, a creative adaptation of this theory was brought to the silver screen called Becoming Jane and I fully intend to watch this film as soon as time permits (how did I miss this film?!). There is also a Semi-Biography listed Becoming Jane Austen by Hunter Spence that I wish to pick up for next year's December Austen themed reading in honour of Miss Austen's birthday (December 16th). If perhaps Mr Darcy was based on an Irish politician and Judge, were George Wickham, William Collins or Charles Bingley based on anyone Austen knew? Although some speculate it was Austen's own brother, Henry Thomas Austen, who served as unfortunate inspiration (he was a militia officer and clergyman) and very well possibly was turned into Mr William Collins in the pages; I love the other idea of Shakespeare's Proteus and Valentine from The Two Gentlemen of Verona being used for certain plot points in the story. There are many similarities between the awkward and tumultuous brotherly relationship between the characters and it seems throughout history there are tales of men brought up as brothers then they choose different paths with one later returning bent on destroying the other. Regarding Charles Bingley, there doesn't seem to be any clear figure identified either, he is just the contrast to Darcy with his open friendliness and charm wherein Mr. Darcy, he is a complex personality that in the end you can't help but fall for and proves the adage "Don't judge a book by its cover" plus is a central theme in Pride and Prejudice. In the end, it is known that Austen used many different past literary pieces for ideas for her storylines and characters in her novels, so the true identity of George Wickham, William Collins or Charles Bingley are all collective entertaining mysteries and discussion subjects forever attached to the pages of this novel of first impressions and manners. And without further ado, Lizzy’s Fine Dark Eyes Perfume Oil by Sucreabeille. 5ml bottle. (Scent notes: Orchids and chamomile blend with lavender, ylang ylang and hyssop. Peach blossom, sandalwood, and sparkling aldehyde bring lift and depth.) On opening, the lavender is immediately apparent and it is sweetened with the peach, hyssop and ylang ylang creating an understated playful elegance that is then amplified with the sparkling aldehyde which indeed brings this blend "lift and depth". The true magic in this oil occurs an hour later when this lovely vintage quality takes hold with the lingering dry lavender along with the grounding creamy sandalwood and at that point, I'm smitten by this "beautiful expression of dark eyes" and can't stop sneaking sniffs when no one at my work setting is looking but then again let them look. Despite this fragrance being inspired by Miss Elizabeth Bennet's dark eyes, this fragrance is delightfully light and magnetic at the same time. For longevity, this perfume lasts 6 hours on my skin and considerably more (about 13 hours) when placed in my curls and my locks hold onto the sweetened bubbly aldehydes longer. A wonderful introduction to the scent artistry to be found in this collection. Two Dances with Darcy Perfume Oil by Poesie Perfume . 5ml bottle. (Scent notes: a splash of her lavender water, a hint of his Regency cologne and pipe tobacco, the polished dance floor, flushed skin, and is that...the perfect pear?) And now we move onto the ballroom floor and take a turn with Two Dances with Darcy that on application lavender appears along with a dribble of pear juice and the realistic pipe tobacco that now amplifies on my skin completely sweeping me away to a compelling scent story I don't want to leave. There is something about the magical marriage of lavender and pipe tobacco that I can't resist in any blend and in Two Dances with Darcy, these notes entwine beautifully and yet are somehow improved with the addition of pear (and a possible hidden airy vanilla?). The polished floor is evident on the dry down which holds a nostalgic quality for myself as I think back on ballet lessons and later one particular locale filled with entertaining thumping music as we whirled around the wooden rink while lights flashed in time to catchy tunes. In terms of this blend conveying the utter captivating dance of emotions from this crucial scene between Lizzy and Mr. Darcy, this oil bottles that moment wonderfully. On me, Two Dances with Darcy leans more feminine with the lavender, pear and hidden vanilla I keep getting wafts of, the tobacco and cologne fades into the background giving way to the familiar comforting herb and fruit at first then becomes more noticeable as hours later go by adding some interesting warm supporting contrast. For longevity, Two Dances with Darcy lasts around 4 to 5 hours and stays close to enjoy and sweep me away to one of my favourite scenes in a treasured novel. *The A Winter's Ball (Pride, Prejudice & Perfume) collection is currently available for purchase Sharing Notes of Interest: Did you know that First Impressions was the original title of Pride and Prejudice? At age 21, Miss Jane Austen's father submitted her manuscript to a publisher but it was rejected for various reasons and wasn't resubmitted for consideration until 14 years later after Austen's success with Sense and Sensibility. She also worried her novel too frivolous writing “The work is rather too light, and bright, and sparkling...It wants shade; it wants to be stretched out here and there with a long chapter of sense, if it could be had.” I don't know about anyone else, but I think she succeeded on all levels and showed the world her genius with wit, romantic flair and a book like a fine box of sweets you can't put down and something one must experience. Speaking of publishing, it is a sad little known fact that Jane Austen never submitted her works with her name, she only signed them "By a Lady" or in the case of Pride and Prejudice- “by the author of Sense and Sensibility.” Her identity was revealed to the public by her brother only after her death. I would be remiss to not share a darker note of interest that in the mysterious death of Miss Austen which to this day is still being debated upon. On July 18 1817, Austen passed away at the age of 41 (only 4 years after the publication of her masterwork, Pride and Prejudice). Was she poisoned by arsenic, whether by the common practice of adding the caustic heavy metal to prescribed and easily purchased medicines (or simply drinking water supplies or wearing coloured fabrics) in 19th-century England or was it done with malicious purpose by someone she trusted? Did she succumb to an underlying condition or undiagnosed chronic disease (Addison's disease)? We may never know the whole story, all we do that is a brilliant author and shining pen was silenced that day and her works have caused a sensation of fandom and scent inspiration and beauty inspiration (such as the A Winter's Ball collection). It's a shame this authoress (like so many other writers) will never know the impact their words have on the public and each new generation. For further reading, I recommend: The Real Jane Austen: A Life in Small Things by Paula Byrne, What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew: From Fox Hunting to Whist—the Facts of Daily Life in 19th-Century England by Daniel Pool and Fashion Victims: The Dangers of Dress Past and Present by Alison Matthews David For inspiring music (I enjoyed these playlists while typing out the above and following fragrance and beauty items reviews), see: 1, 2, 3 and 4 Stereoplasm While other indie shops may have thought ancient lost civilizations, conspiracy theories and strange magnificent beasts of legend and lore weren't exactly spring theme fragrance material, one shop said it could be done and dared to go completely outside the box this past spring release. Taking notes from the elements (and perhaps an appendage or claw from some intergalactic being and a Cryptid yet to be fully identified) Stereoplasm presented 6 blends in 2 collections. The following were my overall thoughts and of course some added history for your amusement... Bottles World's Fair 1893 Sleeping Giants Eye of the Sahara One Note at a Time World's Fair 1893 (Plum brandy, genisteae, melted steel, powdered porcelain and stained glass) There be violets in this as it's the first note that hits my nose along with the plum brandy that adds a sharpness to the powderiness of the unlisted floral. The genisteae (or broom) gives this blend just a hint of a cola herbal smell. The metal and the plum brandy dance back and forth as this oil dries and I'm in love with this bottle. All around applauds to Stereoplasm for the attention to historical notes as this brings to mind an elegant lady walking along the bright lights of the World's Fair. If certain literary characters were allowed to escape their pages, I would say this is the fragrance worn by Irene Adler touring the Chicago Columbian Exposition, it's inventive and has a little of a seductive mysterious streak (perfect for the getting the attention of a certain detective). Passing the knowledge along: The World's Fair 1893 was an influential social and cultural event that attracted millions of people from across the world to a massive 6 month event built to showcase technological advancements in about every field you can think of and had a profound effect on architecture, sanitation, the arts, Chicago's self-image, and optimism in American industrial companies (it was also rumored the fair may have had some intergalactic ingenuity displayed and not everything showcased was as it seemed). One set of infamous names involved with the fair was Louis Comfort Tiffany who designed along with Clara Driscoll an incredible chapel of stained glass and screens depicting different scenes from the bible and images of nature unlike the world had ever seen before. Another fascinating note to share is while the bright lights of the fair blazed a true con-artist turned murderer stalked the edges of the grounds taking in tenants and sightseers to his building built for one purpose and after they signed a contract, they were never seen again. The name of this con-artist was Herman Webster Mudgett (and crime history will remember him as Dr H. H. Holmes). For titles on the subject of the Chicago Columbian Exposition, Louis Comfort Tiffany, Clara Driscoll and of course H. H. Holmes, I highly recommend: The Devil in the White City by Erik Larson, A New Light on Tiffany: Clara Driscoll and the Tiffany Girls by Martin Eidelber, Nina Gray and Margaret K. Hofer, Clara and Mr Tiffany by Susan Vreeland, Noon at Tiffany's by Echo Heron and Depraved by Harold Schechter Sleeping Giants (Stone moss, bearded iris, carbon, wildflowers and petrified wood) In the bottle it's moss and sweet narcotic like wildflowers that sweeps me away to a lonely field staring at a huge rock formation that could very well have extraterrestrial origins, ancient connections or it could be just be a case of Pareidolia. Once applied this oil takes on a vintage powdery perfume element and the green notes sink into the back ground. I love this scent at this moment but alas the full dry down resembles soap on me. I've had tremendous luck of placing this oil in my unscented argan hair oils and whipped soaps. Out of the bottles in these collections Sleeping Giants and Ogopogo were the most "spring forward" fragrances, capturing the season in a unique way as only this shop can. Eye of the Sahara (Ancient spice, lovegrass, ambergris and sea salt beneath hot sand) I'm ashamed to admit I never heard of this amazing circular feature located in the Western Sahara desert before this collection of perfumes was announced. The Eye of the Sahara (the Richat Structure or Eye of Africa) can be seen from space and is believed by many to be the secret location of Atlantis. This perfume based on the dome of stones that predates life on earth has been a smash hit for me and something I keep reaching for. It may have to do with the alluring concept of world travel as Eye of the Sahara smells so exotic (with a trace of tempting spice and warm comforting dust) or it could be that this oil is somehow vintage smelling and makes me long for another time. I saw someone was asking for everyone's adventurous mood fragrances on Reddit, well Eye of the Sahara is my answer. It brings to mind an early 20th-century woman of travel (Agatha Christie visiting the sands and tombs of Egypt) or that a bottle would be found on a vanity next to intriguing artifacts and a dusty roll of tools of a silver screen heroine, ready to go for the next exciting treasure hunt. What ever the reason, I'm so happy I went with my gut and purchased the Buried/Lost Civilizations collection. Dare I say, it has been one of my personal favourite releases this year from any shop. Vials and Bottles Mothman Ozark Howler Ogopogo One Note at a Time Mothman (Grey vetiver, phalaenopsis, red cardamom and a hint of sulphur) I know the legend of the collapse of the Silver Bridge in Point Pleasant, West Virginia. I've seen the movie and yes, I do watch for red glowing eyes when I'm driving at late at night. Mothman is probably the more recognized name in this collection and boy, does he get an eerie clean fragrance. In the vial it's fresh and sweet with vanilla but when applied this awesome unexpected "buzzing" element comes out of nowhere and it smells like the window metal screen of a porch door (don't ask me why I know that smell, haha). Mothman tells a scent story of clean laundry being hung on the line and then some fantastical beast screeching out of the dark and flies past eyes blazing and antennae "buzzing". Unique notes and impression aside this is still extremely wearable and I like it but I'm just not sure this oil is for completely me. I have a friend who loves and treasures "clean and fresh" perfumes, so Mothman may have a new home soon if they get along. Ozark Howler (Fallen dogwood leaves, warm fur and white horehound) This fragrance is inspired by a huge hulking black beast that lives in the remote mountains of Arkansas, Missouri, Oklahoma, and Texas. I'll fully admit I zoned in on the white horehound that was listed and had visions of anise and decaying leaves dancing in my head when I ordered. The presentation of my the bottles was so creative as they arrived in a box marked "live animals" with adorable little googly eyes attached on top, I was pretty excited to crack this blend open and I could only describe it as "hot man dog/cat". Not the best description to ever come from my pen but there it was, the aroma of a shaggy strangely attractive canine/feline man. Months later the dried wet leaves are more dominant now and I get the shaggy warm fur on the long dry down. It's something else and a must try for those that like an atmospheric with an alluring animalistic side- think if Vincent from (1987) Beauty and the Beast (does anyone remember that show?) moved out of the sewer and into the remote mountains still reading and reciting poetry (I need to get out more). Ogopogo (Cool Rippling lake, water lily, seaweed and snake skin) It's an ultra entertaining word to say really fast and thanks to the show Unsolved Mysteries, I'm fully aware of this monster of the deeps of the Canadian waters. When it comes to the fragrance, I'm downright blown away how realistic the lake water accord is and this unexplained creamy white floral that keeps catching my attention. I dare say it's pretty and definitely beguiling. There is something in this that reminds me of The Sky is Falling and I think it's an unlisted "ozone" accord and I can detect a sweet stone note hiding just beneath everything else. I also love how this reminds me of carefree days fishing off the dock with bare toes dangling just above the water, ready to pull back and run for my dear little life if I saw something moving in the water. (true confession time- I'm a water sign but I'm terrified of deep dark water and up until this year never really appreciated aquatic fragrances but Ogopogo can stay on my vanity). This was my choice pick out of the Cryptid collection and will be joining me when I travel or when I miss that familiar mud and lake scent of fishing in April. Stereoplasm FEATURED Houses of Fragrance on the Horizon: Nui Cobalt Designs ("Magical scents & sundries.")9/6/2019
Sometimes a house of fragrance finds you and so it goes with this next shop who contacted me on Reddit. I admit I had heard of Nui Cobalt Designs within the IMAM forum and I was enamored by their aesthetic and themes but I didn't know anyone who had sampled their wares and I put them on the list for "someday", well someday just happened and I can't thank Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs enough for sending me a box filled with samples to ramble about and lose myself in... The time has come to talk of many things of realistic smelling herbs, a magnetic Art Deco theme that branches off into bewitching collections and stellar honey, fruit and florals accords that have quickly become my favourites to dab and slather this summer. This is one shop that you can truly say: "Expect the unexpected"... One Note at a Time Pixie (The wing'ed Fae folk of Cornwall and Devon. An apple orchard in bloom, spring grasses alive with some unearthly glow, vanilla bean offertory cakes and sparkling honey mead)*Fragrance currently listed on the site I first fell for this blend Midsummer's Night and I haven't stopped slathering it since. This one is floral graham crackers that last around 6 hours on my skin and 8 to 10 hours in my piled-up hair. The apple blossom note is extremely realistic and I found another honey treasure to hoard. Do I see a full bottle in my future?: Oh my, yes! Although it reminds me of Alkemia's Honeycakes for Harvest Moon, no candle note appears after the dry down and I would call Pixie the summer version of the two. I prefer Pixie and the visions it conjures of the legendary apple orchards of Avalon; this will be travelling with me when I go to Glastonbury someday. Hummingbird (A surprisingly bold blend for courage and confidence. Darting from oleander to orange blossom with ripe nectarine, hibiscus tea, and traces of tuberose)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition Despite the description of being bold, on me, Hummingbird is "kind and demure" and when first applied it brings to mind something a classic Disney Princess would wear as she twirls around the dance floor full of dreams and a song in her heart. That all changes at about 2 hours when it morphs to lovely orange blossoms (with a little grit) that get stronger as additional hours go by. Overall it changed to a professional and pretty fragrance that stayed close to my skin. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Despite how lovely and captivating Hummingbird morphed into towards the end of the night, I don't think this blend is for me now but truth be told, I would have had two bottles and a third on the way a decade ago. I'm content with just the vial. Oya (A traditional Louisiana infusion to honour the Lwa of Lightning and call forth her power. Ozone and petrichor sharpen the edges of cardamom, green pepper, and sage, while black cherry and pipe tobacco sweeten the base. Wear this scent to bring the thunder and awaken your sacred fury.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Oya is unlike anything I have smelled before and it has a special place in my collection for the cherry pipe tobacco and spicy rain note this holds. It's unique as I had hoped and I have moved this oil into my rotation of sleep perfumes. That combination of green pepper, cardamom and black cherry makes my mouth water. This one brings the thunder to my senses! Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not a bottle but another vial when this one runs out. Come Hither (In the time-honored tradition of Love Me, Come to Me, and Follow Me Boy hoodoo oils, this is an irresistibly sensual blend for getting - and keeping - someone's attention. Wild pink roses glistening with dew, Southern sweet tea, candied ginger and a gentle touch of clove. This oil is additionally infused with rose quartz, the classic choice for unconditional love. It encourages self-care and assists in maintaining a warm, receptive demeanor. Wear as a beguiling perfume or warm in a diffuser to evoke an air of romance.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site The unmistakable scent of pink roses and sweet tea opens Come Hither that then gains some familiar spice with the clove and ginger. It also has an aldehyde aspect but thankfully that burns down an hour in. I want to say Come Hither is too clean and fresh smelling for me but I oddly like it and will keep it to add a little spice and mystery to my locks. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not at this time but if this comes in hair oil, candle or bath salts, here's my pocketbook. Grey Cat (An ode to my very own regal and ridiculous familiars. Dry smoked vanilla, fluffy marshmallow creme, fresh blueberries, the gentlest touch of lavender and a warm cup of Earl Grey. Wear this comforting blend to attract friendship, allies, and supportive people. It's a potent addition to a Honey Jar or any spellcraft for sweetening relationships.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Mmm smoky blueberries and tea you need to come home to me. Grey Cat is exceptional with a fruit that could steer into the overpowering candy realm with the marshmallow but stays true to freshly picked blueberries next to a cup of Earl Grey and a swirl of bonfire smoke in the background. The anticipated marshmallow with lavender appears on the long dry down that aids as another sleep scent potion in the end. I'm quite impressed the tea hasn't turned into something from my nightmares. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Let's see I finally found a tea blend that plays nice with my chemistry AND it has marshmallow with lavender and smoked blueberries. Yes, you can bet you will see a bottle featured soon. Queen Bee (An opulent blend to evoke confidence, poise, and effortless grace. Creamy white gardenia and fluffy whipped honey)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition I was hoping for a summer version of Sixteen92's Ligeia but instead, have been united with sweet innocent nostalgia as this oil smells like a new baby doll in the warm sunlight on me. I didn't think I would find this familiar aroma until I finally got around to Rose Mallow or Violet Mallow from Solstice Scents but here it is taking me back and bringing my new favourite buttery floral to enjoy as well this summer. This one lasts quite a while as well, fading away completely at 10 hours. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Possibly next year, yes. Although I adore the powdery element of Queen Bee, I'm curious to find out if the luscious gardenia will strengthen after some patient aging (all signs are pointing to yes and I can tell this perfume is going to be heady, just what I have been desiring for a summer gardenia fragrance). Invoking The Muse (This high-powered potion is a paean to the mighty goddesses of creativity and inspiration. Incense and olive leaves lifted by white copal, ancient oak, Mysore sandalwood, and vanilla orchid. This oil is additionally infused with fulgurite: the "lightning stone." Formed as lightning strikes the earth, this mineral facilitates a connection between intellect and Higher Mind. Wear this distinctly Mediterranean scent to dispel performance anxiety. It invokes flashes of insight and banishes creative blocks.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Warm sandalwood, vanilla and a note resembling mint opens on my skin and I can't help but bring my nose closer as incense curls up to greet me after a few minutes. I'm curious if that is Palo Santo that is reading as mint and at the same time what is registering as "Cola or Root Beer" to my nose. I've smelled something like this before...Oh, Alkemia's A Darkness Burning was slightly similar on me but Invoking the Muse has more of a romantic vanilla at the base and after sometime olive appears (totally guessing but it smells like olive oil). I know this oil is for creativity and getting things done but I've moved it into the corner of my collection dedicated to relaxing and reading. There is something very meditative about the scent potion. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not at this time, I'm content with just a vial. Malarkey (A comforting scent to ease your mind and sooth your nerves after dealing with dishonest people. Bread and Butter Pudding: twice-baked slices of soft white bread, salted butter, rich vanilla custard with a modest sprinkle of nutmeg and cinnamon)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition In the vial I get the unexpected scent of fruit, butter and warm toasted bread; it's only when I allow it to meld with my chemistry something magical happens and it morphs to spiced bread pudding with realistic thick vanilla custard and the distinct aroma of freshly prepared french toast but the vanilla custard and light cinnamon stand out the most. Hours later I get a creamy crumbly nutmeg and a richer vanilla base (and I swear a drop of warm honey). It's something else and a tribute to British culinary traditions and old-fashioned baking secrets. Malarkey is never sharp, overly sweet or spicy, waxy or artificial smelling and just like Poppycock, it's perfectly executed. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Absolutely, yes next year (my pocketbook took a hit this summer). I always try to envision what the food from one my all-time favourite cinematic treasures would smell like and Malarkey is what I would be drinking if I were invited to attend the lost boys' dinner from HOOK. It's straight out of my dreams as this is happy thoughts and warm hugs. [says with nose to wrist] It's Bangarang. Dark Mistress (An homage to the Dominant Feminine that evokes indomitable confidence. Spiced pomegranate and stiletto steel swirled in Cabernet over a foundation of leather and mahogany musk.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Oh, hello Midnight Vamp! I thought this blend would be sweeter for some reason but the realistic metal is adding a dangerous element along with the leather. Dark Mistress is untamed and seductive, I like it and I'm thrilled to find a pomegranate fragrance that carries a bit of a bite. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not a bottle but another vial as I find this strangely beautiful blend something out of my comfort zone but is still captivating to my senses and I will wear it for special occasions and events (where is a Vampire themed Masquerade Ball when you need one?) This is going next to Alkemia's The Raven which makes me feel like a dangerous Evil Queen. Robin's Egg (A gently protective blend to support you through life's transitions. Dainty forget-me-nots and Lily of the Valley, a dollop of whipped blueberry creme, and a cozy birch nest tucked into a flowering dogwood tree.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition Here is another oil that showcases Nui Cobalt's superb blueberry note and this time it's folded carefully in a creamy floral that I love to place in my curls. It's outrageously romantic smelling but still works for the professional setting. I do notice birch goes powdery on me (like in Sixteen92's Aeromancy) but Robin's Egg is a definite keeper. I can't get enough powdery wonders from the indie realm. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, next year if I start saving now. I want so many different magical blends from this shop. I would also absolutely purchase this in a candle. Tryptophan (A soothing sleep blend to lull you into a deep and restorative night's rest. Softest sandalwood, warm vanilla and clary sage are accented by precious blue chamomile and subtle french lavender. Please note: there is no actual tryptophan in this fragrance.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site This oil smells like smooth buttery caramel and lavender on me. The creamy sandalwood catches my attention a few moments after application and true to its name, Tryptophan lulls my senses to a relaxed state and off to bed. I must jot down this scent potion only lasts so long but I do get a subtle note of lingering mint-caramel when I wake hours later. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, eventually. Feu Follet (The Cajun version of Will o' the Wisp, a luminous inhabitant of swamps and marshlands who's said to lure travellers to a watery grave. Sultry southern magnolia, wild muscadine, honeysuckle, and Spanish moss clinging to the trees.)*Fragrance currently SOLD OUT on the site When will I learn to not go solely by what the applicator wand holds because Feu Follet is another perfume that morphs and flickers on my skin going from floral to deep dark fruit and back to a watery moss note then ending as floral sweet tea that all brings my nose closer. I'm still training my nose and I can only guess the floral that is amping on me is the magnolia (it kind of reminds me of gardenias with a small lemon heart). Feu Follet is a bit heady but I like it. Our family friend who was a true southern belle would have loved this. Do I see a bottle in my future?: I would rather wear this fragrance as a toast to my departed friend and am happy with the vial at this time. Now I know what magnolias smell like. Indie Mood: Giulia (Unabashed refinement and sheer elegance. White santal and sunwashed teak edged with vetiver, silk, and chilled Earl Grey)*Fragrance currently listed on the site I'm still deciphering this expensive smelling blend as I get a not unpleasant soap combination that stays close to my skin. Tea can turn into sudsy aldehydes and despite the other above-listed successes with Earl Grey listed, I don't think this one is for me. I'm going to pass this vial along to a friend who loves and hoards these types of elegant "clean and fresh" mixtures (I believe she will be very pleased with Giulia). There is a different blend in Nui Cobalt's catalogue for everyone. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Wings of the Morrigan (Goddess of victory, courage, and sovereignty. If honored appropriately, she may strengthen the righteous warrior and stand as a fierce protectress of the land. If angered, she may portend certain doom. Soft, smokey leather with a splash of red wine, an offering of black cherries and bitter chocolate, the steel and stone of the battlefield. Wear this enchanted scent to summon your valor and claim your crown.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition Smokey patchouli, leather and unsweetened cherry wine open the scene and it's like some awesome beast unfolds her wings with a smirk on her red-black lips. You can't look away and you know she is there to wreak vengeance on foolish mortals but you can't move and are compelled to bow down. This fragrance isn't for the weak and I'm shocked I have taken such a shine to this perfume. Wings of the Morrigan plays wonderfully on my fiendish little imagination and I must admit I love Nui Cobalt's leather accord. The chocolate is extremely subtle and only appears under different conditions on my skin. Hours later the steel and stone (and hint of smoke) is all that remains with the leather bringing to mind a battlefield of yore. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Eventually. Just like Alkemia's The Raven, Dark Mistress will be for special occasions, reading certain topics and writing. The Bees' Cotillion (So fancy! This ebullient blend evokes mirth and merriment to highlight your most endearing qualities. Succulent pears simmering in spring honey with the gentlest breeze of lily carried in a homespun infusion of honeysuckle flowers)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition Well I just found a kindred spirit fragrance to join Alkemia's Les Courtisanes for my favourite pear perfume as The Bee's Cotillion is an intoxicating blend of fruit, honey (I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey fragrances; I want to hoard them all like a shimmery amber dragon) and florals. I always wear Les Courtisanes near the end of summer well into fall and winter for special conferences so The Bee's Cotillion fills in that seasonal gap and I know this sounds odd but this scent is lucky as good things seem to happen when I don it. It's professional and positively unique and says I have arrived in life while also staying approachable. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, The Bees' Cotillion will be joining my collection next year. Horsefeathers (A sumptuous scent to help you keep your cool when people try to pull the wool over your eyes. A traditional Arctic Roll: vanilla bean ice cream wrapped in a blanket of yellow sponge cake and a layer of vibrant red raspberry jam.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition Can I just say that this shop executes gourmands beautifully and Horsefeathers is another where I could lick my arm. In the vial, it's admittingly a little rough medicinal smelling but once it has a few moments to settle this oil takes on a buttery cake quality with fresh raspberries spread on top and quickly shoots to one of the top raspberry cake perfumes I have tried (it will join MoonaLisa's Aurelia in my dream gourmand section). I amp the butter but hours later a clear vanilla ice cream aroma makes me dance in my chair, yisss! I must also note Horsefeathers does not turn waxy or artificial at any time. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, if Aurelia were ever discontinued. I would love a candle of this fragrance for my bedroom or a jar of bath salts. Vila (The beautiful silver-haired faeries of Slavic folklore who may choose to align themselves with worthy humans, or unleash fury upon the unworthy. Apricots preserved with cardamom, clove, and brown sugar, dewy Bulgarian roses, and luminous white silk.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site This is such a lovely blend that morphs from a fruity-floral jam that somehow smells creamy to warm spicy-wooden roses with every other gentle gust of wind. Vila has been accompanying me quite a bit to my workplace and I love it all the more that is based on Slavic faeries that can either be benevolent or unholy demons. Saying that, I'm happy to report on me, Vila is ethereal, expensive smelling without turning into soap and utterly beguiling (I can't get enough Bulgarian rose blends). Do I see a bottle in my future?: One word, yes. Flummery (A truly delicious scent to help you gain perspective when people try to twist the truth. Highland Flummery: toasted oats and warm heather honey folded gently into whipped cream and drizzled with a shot of Drambuie.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition With all the above successes, there are always those vials that end up unfortunate cases to report and I'm very sad to say Flummery hit all the wrong notes on my skin and nose (yeasty beer and unexplained musty banana with an absence of honey or oats appearing at any time of testing). Needless to say, Flummery will not be sadly joining my collection but I do hope someone else out there appreciates this homage to proud Scottish baking traditions (What a shame, I wanted to wear this to the Highland Festival this year, can someone recommend a heather honey perfume, please?). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Road Opener (This time-honored classic is renowned for its power to clear away obstructions and banish energy blocks. It illuminates the path to success in all areas. Scent notes of warm lemon tarts with the subtle freshness of green herbs and a base of smooth frankincense.) *Fragrance currently listed on the site Tart lemon, frankincense and rosemary, take me away! I mean this in the most positive way- this smells like Liquid Gold lemon wood polish and I am one happy lady. It's intoxicating and divine. As time goes on, the lemon tarts come out a little more and resembles an unsweetened dessert. The frankincense is indeed smooth and it's like an open window during spring cleaning folded on top with lemon dessert waiting to be enjoyed (for those curious, Road Opener DOES mellow down about 10 minutes and fades relatively quickly versus the other oils I've tried from this shop). I have been enjoying a drop or two in my bathwater to wake me up. Do I see a full bottle in my future?: Most likely when my generously sized vial is empty. I do have another fragrance similar to this on my list to purchase soon but I do want the Road Opener eventually. Indie Mood: Liv (The fecundity of the untamed forest at twilight. Earthy patchouli, deep incense, wild blackcurrants, and the lingering smoke of a maplewood fire.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Just like Invoking the Muse there is a clear mint-like note that attaches to my chemistry and I'm almost positive it is Palo Santo (Poesie's Serene Lace carried the same mint-like note that was later identified as palo santo) and this round it has a distinctive maplewood note backing it creating a sticky sweet mint-maple wood combination. The realistic smoke from a bonfire appears shortly after with a subtle patchouli scent. I don't get any blackcurrants as the smoky maplewood amps on me the most and Liv does smell like twilight in autumn with an ancient forest reaching into the sky. This is going next to Alkemia's Ambre d'Automne and Sixteen92's Sarah Good. Do I see a full bottle in my future?: Not at this time, I'm content with just a vial. I may change my mind this coming fall. Poppycock (A bright fragrance to banish confusion and illuminate the whole truth. Lemon Meringue Pie: frothy citrus sweetness in a toasted almond crust, with white vanilla peaks gently browned under a blowtorch.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition As it says on the tin, Poppycock is a sugary lemon scent confection that shifts to varying degrees of desserts on my wrists and crooks of my arms. It's not waxy or sharp and I get either vanilla cake with decorative swirls of citrus or textbook perfect whipped lemon meringue with a crunchy almond shell. The longevity is also impressive as this scent fades in about 4 to 5 hours on my skin making this the longest-lasting lemon dessert perfume I have found yet for myself (usually lemon dessert oils are gone on me before I leave the house). There is also a distinct heavenly smoke note with toasted almonds that is last to leave me for the night and I have been wearing Poppycock quite a bit this summer. Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, next year this one will be mine and displayed next to Malarkey. Little Brown Rabbit (An auspicious blend for abundance and great good fortune. Nutmeg and tonka bean nuzzle up against fluffy marshmallow, cottonflower, pink pepper, and a trace of carrot seed.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; limited edition I must agree with others' thoughts on this perfume as a comforting laundry note with carrot is the first thing that hits my nose and it does bring to mind Beatrix Potter's classic tale of Peter Rabbit. I've never smelled anything like this and I should be disappointed in the cottonflower which has attached to my chemistry but I don't hate this oil. Perhaps Little Brown Rabbit appreciates my efforts and not pulling away from the laundry soap note because within an hour I'm rewarded with creamy crumbly nutmeg, a kiss of pepper and realistic marshmallow that just makes me huff my wrists. Out of all the vials, Little Brown Rabbit lasts the longest clocking in at 13 hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. I will be wearing Little Brown Rabbit at Eastertime and again in autumn. Do I see a bottle in my future?: I want to say yes, if only that laundry note that hits a tad hard, in the beginning, would be swallowed more by the unique carrot, nutmeg and marshmallow, I would be throwing my pocketbook at the screen. Perhaps Little Brown Rabbit needs some patient aging. I'll decide next year. Indie Mood (The dynamic harmony of light and shadow. Lapsang souchong tea, sumptuous velvet, labdanum and tonka punctuated by precious Peru balsam.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site Ooh, I like this. I know it's not listed but I smell sweet cinnamon that swirls with the dark tea and balsam. Once it dries down it dances back and forth between sweetness and dark resins. With the balsam, Indie Mood doesn't last very long on my skin about 3 to 4 hours but does fair better in my curls. This vial is going right next to Sixteen92's Spirits of the Dead for its brilliant display of flickering light and dark qualities (with a tea blend that loves me). Do I see a bottle in my future?: My pocketbook wants me to say no but my dark little soul and nose say, Yes (but only long after the vial is empty). The Bee's Knees (A lively blend to brighten the mood and lift your spirits. Leaves of lemon balm and crushed coriander seeds accompany lavender scones with spring harvest honey and a scant drop of green cognac. Wear this scent to chase away the doldrums and banish the blues.)*Fragrance NOT currently listed on the site; seasonal edition Here it is, the perfume I haven't shut up about or stopped dancing around with since it arrived. Simply put this is one of the most realistic honey and old English lavender oils I have found in the indie realm. On me, The Bee's Knees is sun-warmed dark golden honey drizzled over sugar-dusted lavender scones, I don't get any cognac or additional herbs and if they are there, they are blended in so seamlessly and expertly. It's magnificent and has been placed next to MoonaLisa's The Rumpkin! for the best lavender in my collection. Every time I wear it I imagine an English garden scene in summer and The Bee's Knees brightens my mood as described. *I purchased a bottle and it is another crowning jewel of my perfume cache. What can I say it was love at first sniff and I fell hard. Hulda (An ode to the woodland seductress of Scandinavian legend. Slender white birch limbs, lily of the valley, pale angelica glistening with dew, cloud berry and icy moonlit waters.)*Fragrance currently listed on the site/this sample arrived with my purchased bottle of The Bee's Knees I'm still deciphering Hulda as I get a very fresh smelling powdery aquatic that at times can resemble gum on me. It's certainly elegant and crisp and I adore the birch note that appears hours later with the lily but I think it will be passed along to a friend (part of me wants desperately to keep it at the same time and I just may for my locks- I love heady lily of the valley). Do I see a bottle in my future?: Not at this time, I'm content with just a vial. Menehune (Roasted macadamia nuts, teakwood, coconut palm, and ripe pineapple)*Fragrance currently listed on the site/this sample arrived with another purchase of home and bath items I will share my thoughts on another day Despite the gourmand notes this is a "your skin but better" version for summer. It's light and fresh smelling (even a little salty scented) without turning to soap or suntanning lotion. I'm also thrilled to report with Menehune I amp the roasted macadamia nuts and I have definitely reached for this vial more than I thought for the workplace setting. Nui Cobalt Designs has changed my mind about quite a few different scent profiles I thought "I could never pull off". Turns out I can! Do I see a bottle in my future?: Yes, I just may. *With many thanks to Nui Cobalt Designs for kindly sending me all of these different scent creations and starting a very long prologue to another scent love story for me. Nui Cobalt Designs With every joy I find in the Indie realm there has to be of course some sorrow and regret and so it goes with Parchment Studios/Latherati. I was too late in trying this shop that offered an array of fragrances and bath and body products inspired by classic literature because once I finally decided on my first purchase they announced shortly after that they were closing. I hope someday to see this shop open once again. I loved the next items I wish to share which included the best nail polish I have ever used and a fragrance that will be accompanying me to different events. Adieu, Parchment Studios, you are well missed! These were my final thoughts... Parchment Nail Polish in Hyacinth I fully admit I was completely taken by the photos popping up on social media of this color and I had to have it even though I hadn't painted my nails in nearly 8 years. Taking a little extra care (adding some dietary changes to my nightly lunches at work and massaging alot of vintage based hand cream on my nails and hands; our mothers were right all along) I was able to grow my nails out to a surprising length so I decided it was time to treat myself. My polish shipped within hours of being ordered and arrived a couple days later which was impressive. Ah, but the true test was the color and how well it would preform. Color: On the website it is the ideal shade of a spring hyacinth in full bloom but in reality it is darker in the bottle and more greyish-deep mauve than I was expecting but I adore any hue of purple and it called out to my gloomy little self that loves "mourning Victorian colours". Transfer: I was out of practice with steadying a nail brush and figuring out how much to apply at one time but this particular applicator brush was extremely forgiving (and very comfortable in my hand as the top of the bottle is tapered and almost feels like a thick classic pen) as well as the formula that spread nicely and it took only 2 coats to get full coverage. Final color reveal and Picture It.: The polish dried quickly which was quite impressive as I was ready to set aside my whole evening and made sure all domestic duties were finished before I sat down to literally watch paint dry but my nails were dry before I fell asleep and there was no mystery imprints found anywhere the next morning. So after all said and done the shade changed to a stormy grey purple in the light and smoky purple out in the sun plus oddly reminded me of something and in the following days of me dancing around admiring the flawless shine (with no top coat required) it finally hit me! Hyacinth looks like Ursula's (Yes, THAT Ursula, and you're welcome if Poor Unfortunate Souls is stuck in your head the rest of the day) skin tone and yes I shared this observation with my friend who just rolled her eyes and laughed saying "only you" but I don't care this nail polish had me under a spell with the gorgeous unique shade (it really doesn't take much to make me happy or entertain me, haha). So how long did it last?: Even with washing dishes and a pack of mud loving dogs, the polish lasted over a week with minimal chipping and finally on the 8th day, one huge chip was clearly noticeable so I tried to repair it throughout the day but just made a mess so I tried removing the polish but it wouldn't budge no matter how much I soaked my nails. I emailed Julie and within minutes (her customer service is amazing to say the least) had an answer that I needed Acetone Nail Polish Remover so off I went into the night for a grocery store run and she was absolutely correct. It melted off with no annoying lingering hidden stains. Would I purchase Hyacinth again?: Absolutely, this is the best nail polish I ever used (once upon a time I used to paint my nails every 4 days in every color of the rainbow and could do some fancy things with a toothpick so I'm very familiar with the top commercial polishes that chipped on the first day even with a top coat). *Along with my bottle of Hyacinth I received a sample of the newest fragrance called White Gloves which is inspired by a true treasured classic (my second favorite novel by Edith Wharton) and again I sorely wish I visited Parchment Studios (formerly Latherati) MUCH sooner... "...fastened with a single gardenia. She dropped her eyes to the immense bouquet of lilies-of-the-valley on her knee, and Newland Archer saw her white-gloved finger-tips touch the flowers softly." - Edith Wharton, The Age of Innocence Listed Fragrance Notes: PROLOGUE: bergamot, green stems BODY: gardenia, lily of the valley, orange blossom, tuberose EPILOGUE: amber, sandalwood, cedar, musk In the vial: Tart and sweet BERGAMOT with buttery GARDENIA and TUBEROSE. At the moment it's not quite what I would envision from the Gilded Age but it's lovely none the less. Applied: I was mistaken White Gloves would indeed fit into the parlours and be found on the social climbers and dollar princesses we love to read and watch documentaries about. It definitely has a vintage elegance to it and is a fine selection for the late spring to summer months. I would call White Gloves more of a citrus-floral (with a trace of realistic flower stems peeking through) and as I sit here the amber appears along with the cedar on the dry down which warms this blend and adds another level of the unexpected. I do wish it lasted longer on my skin (about 2 to 3 hours) but still White Gloves will be joining me at historical events and be displayed next to Alkemia's La Belle Époque in my travelling portmanteau. Stereoplasm is the shop to see if you desire unique but completely wearable fragrances a little off the beaten path. I found this intriguing shop through a forum on Reddit and each time I order I find myself in the presence of a talented scent artistry that should to be placed among the greats and they only continue to evolve and somehow improve with every release. This is one of the rare brands that even though a creation may not work with my skin chemistry, I still find it impressive and unlike anything I have opened before but yet contains memories I had long forgotten existed and I keep coming back for more. Yes, I know I am shamelessly gushing but I must be honest, Stereoplasm (and another house of fragrance to be reviewed shortly called Nui Cobalt Designs) have made me excited about indie perfumes once again. So without further ado, this is Part I of my trove. Vials: Mogwai Charades The Sky is Falling The Velveteen Stranger Last Dance *These adorable sized vials were found nestled among my first order (thank you so much, Meaghan!) that happened to be a special custom fragrance that will be featured as soon as it is finalized. One Note at a Time Mogwai (Listed Notes: Mulled Eastern spice poured over baby crab apple peel, wild chestnut and resinous champa. Scattered and falling ashes of burnt sage, wild hemlock and ancient dark jade) It is no secret that apple is a note I tend to either ignore or find limited success with, so imagine my surprise when I opened Mogwai and was reunited with the aroma of a variety of apple I had long forgotten about and it somehow magically agreed with my skin when applied. For those not familiar with crab apple, they carry a sour and tart fragrance and the apple itself is extremely hard (great for making jellies out of as well throwing and pelting first crushes with). In Mogwai, the sourness and tartness is punched up and warmed by exotic spices and the distinct creamy nuttiness of tough chestnut with incense is also detected as this blend dries. It's a very mysterious perfume that has a strangely alluring side to it and indeed smells "green" and brings to mind a ritual storefront in autumn. A great introductory scent from this curious shop and a keeper. Charades (Listed Notes: Classic purple lilac, lazy handfuls of new grass, slippery stone moss, heliotrope and peppery geranium leaf) Even though I was taken by Mogwai, I'm very sorry to report my experience with Charades turned out to the complete opposite as my chemistry turned this lovely sounding creation into a soapy headache that lasted forever on me. Pity it smells gorgeous in the vial, others have raved about this perfume (I'm so jealous) and I adore heliotrope and geraniums. I don't think lilacs and I are exactly meant to be in the indie world (I have 2 blends right now that somehow work) and if I want to smell like them I will need to tie a basket of them around my neck. It's just one of those special fragrances in nature (like daffodils) that can't be truly bottled (or that my finicky chemistry will allow me to fully enjoy). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). The Sky is Falling (Listed Notes: Pink ozone, trampled tulips, skyline crocus and delicate candy shells) I may rant and lament over my finicky chemistry that seems to absolutely despise me at times and finds fiendish delight in turning beautiful sounding blends into scent nightmares so you can only guess at my reaction when the Silly Rabbits collection tamed the savage beast and they all were surprise successes (The Sky is Falling turned out to be my favorite out of the trio). This one opens with sweet comforting chocolate eggs very like Jordan Almonds or those dreamy Cadbury Mini Eggs you hoard and gobble down during Easter-time and dew drenched green stems of crocus and nodding vibrant tulips. It's a wonderful nostalgic combination that for me takes me back to childhood wearing pastel Sunday finery with Mary Jane shoes padding among the flower beds, hunting for Easter Eggs and sweets hidden in the greenery. The Sky is Falling is a postcard fragrance, it really is and is tied up with a fitting bow when an unexpected nifty pink ozone accord hits hours later which brings to mind a science exhibit I attended years ago that allowed you to experience the inside of a cloud. Don't believe me, try The Sky is Falling for yourself and see where it takes you in imagine and memories. Brava, Meaghan! Velveteen Stranger (Listed Notes: Stolen peaches, yellow marshmallow, chopped cedar, blackberry aftershave and cigar smoke) In the vial it's syrupy sweet peaches, creamy marshmallow and something a little masculine but on me, Velveteen Stranger is pretty peach sugar-encrusted marshmallow Peeps on a cedar plank with a hit of cigar smoke floating in the background. It tells a story and I can see why it was a smash hit this past spring as it's playful with the creative note lineup and morphs ever so slightly each time you dab it on. In terms on longevity, Velveteen Stranger is the longest lasting out of the collection and I can detect it 10 hours later. Another keeper! Last Dance (Listed Notes: Vintage amber, creamy heliotrope, bubbly champagne, and freshly picked wildflowers) When it comes to Last Dance, I'm not sure if it's the classic song of Donna Summer playing in my head or the frothy creamy floral with powder in this blend but to me this is an Easter wedding reception in a vial. It's unapologetically feminine and carries a vintage lacy vein that is perfect for formal occasions or the workplace setting. As it is aging there is also a familiar sweet element peeking through a couple hours after application that can also be found as the candy shells in The Sky is Falling. Last Dance is too pretty to lounge around in your night clothes to wear, it calls for a string of pearls and celebratory music to set it off right. Unlike anything I have in my collection. Stereoplasm It was inevitable I would find my way to the black-ribboned door of Little And Grim as their Memento Mori aesthetic cried out to my dark little Gothic heart but I can thank the Poisoners Guild for making our meeting a lot sooner when they featured an extraordinary soap sculpture on their page. Up until that point in my life, I never knew soap could be more than a simple square or a small rose shape for the upstairs guest bathroom but indies triumph and surprise once again with changing everything I knew about something and creating an item worth displaying. I may not be able to use that soap art on a count of the Glycerin used but I can sure admire it, I mean come on, it's a pile of detailed skulls that look straight out of a fantasy novel or the dank crypts under London or Paris. I fully admit I couldn't stop eyeing each new scented item after that and nearly broke my mouse in the excitement that perfumes were being added to the catalogue. To my utter delight, they had a lilac fragrance and pumpkin and anyone who knows me wouldn't be surprised those were the ones I grabbed first. These were my impressions... One Note At a Time
The Sad Hour (Description and Notes: A covered mirror, a stopped clock, and a black sash upon the door. Fragrant mourning bouquets, gentle women's finishing powder, and the sweetness of a final kiss. Notes of lilac, amber, and vanilla.) This bottle has become a soothing favourite as it's a clean warm creamy blend that I would put into the same realm as Slipped Between His Teeth from The Strange South (a respectful fresh perfume that doesn't give me a headache or something intrusive to those around me but one that makes me feel only clean and elegant). The lilacs are so lovely but disappear on my skin (after 10 minutes) while the other notes amp creating another powdery perfume to hoard away that harkens back to classics. Overall, a beautiful ode to a lost era and season. *The following vials appeared in my first order, thank you so much, Little And Grim! Tell-Tale (Description and Notes: A taste of feverish autumn: Blood pounding, madness rising, a heart thumping beneath a warm wooden floor. Notes of pumpkin, apples, oak leaves, oak moss, cedar, musk, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and brown sugar.) Hello, pumpkin my old friend, you always cheer me up and I can't stay away from you (nor do I want to). Supporting the familiar comforting fruit is a dose of creamy nutmeg, apple, cinnamon and brown sugar. There is also some undernotes of cedar and rustling dead leaves that are becoming more noticeable as the vial ages. My only slight disappointment is Tell-Tale is so fleeting on my skin like a gust of autumnal wind (in my hair about 5-6 hours though). I hope the lotion is available in the coming months in this fragrance because this is like the perfect early seasonal blanket scent for me and I want to slather it. Botanomancy (Divination by burning plants) (Description and Notes: Fruit-laced herbal smoke and spicy glowing embers. Notes of fig, apple, lemon, ginger, sage, frankincense, caramel, cinnamon, and smoke.) The ghosts of the autumn season speak to me with this creation as my chemistry pulls the apple, sage, smoke, cinnamon and frankincense notes forward on first application. The apple is dominant with something that smells of poached figs then a smoky combination of sage and frankincense swirl into the scene keeping my nose to my wrist. An hour later a snap of ginger is detectable with warm caramel and the cinnamon stays true lingering the most out of the notes (Botanomancy and The Sad Hour lasted the longest on me). Another keeper! Mount Auburn (Description and Notes: A dizzying array of all the flora that buds in Massachusetts. Fragrant, fruity blossoms and towering trees shading gentle, winding paths. Notes of raspberry, melon, honeysuckle, lilac, wisteria, and spruce.) In the vial, this blend promises so much sweet fruit and pine but alas after a few moments on my skin some mystery note turns sharp and then Mount Auburn fades completely away in under 30 minutes. I have had better luck with this pretty blend in my curls giving me a total of 4 hours to enjoy (the lilac and spruce remind me of The Strange South's Poor Dove, which also oddly disappears on my skin). If this fragrance ever was released in a bath bomb or salt it would be mine. Little And Grim Alchemic Muse (I'll keep this introduction short as I can't wait to gush about the scent treasures to be found at this next house of fragrance.) Floral-gourmands and hyacinth perfection were all I sought when I enquired on an indie focused forum and I was directed to see Alchemic Muse. Interesting enough that enquiry was posted at the perfect moment as this shop just unveiled their Kabloom! collection and I placed a very small introductory order of a single hair mist bottle which then turned into a mad dash back to my screen to order more once I uncapped the bottle and smelled a soap sample. Here is my current trove of scent indulgences to be shortly joined by a parade of PUMPKINS soon...here we go again, haha. One Note at a Time
Ostara in Hair Mist/Styling Spray and Perfume Oil (Description and notes: The eternal embodiment of spring pays tribute to you with a mix of hyacinth blossoms, myrtle, and wild heather fused with the soft green foliage of moss and ivy, gently grounded by a warm and earthy base of clove, cinnamon, and myrrh) Simply put, this is Easter and Spring-time in a bottle and THE crowning jewel of my floral collection. The hyacinth accord is exactly as promised and I have found another holy grail for myself. For scent composition, the hyacinths are the stars of the show in Ostara that are warmed by the green notes along the spice and each layer is perfectly balanced creating a symphony and soothing lullaby to the senses. For any differences between the mist and oil, the hair mist is definitely stronger for me (when applied it's like sleeping on an intoxicating bouquet of freshly bloomed sun-warmed hyacinths) and the fragrance lasts all night into the next day versus the oil that fades away within 3 to 4 hours on my skin and needs reapplied. Dreamcatcher soap sample and Hair Mist/Styling Spray (Description and notes: Snare your dreams, no matter the time! Wild honeysuckle flowers with sugared citrus notes of lemon and bergamot peel at play against a sheer base of orange blossoms, muguet and crisp green leaves.) *The soap sample arrived with my first order (thank you so much, Alchemic Muse!) and then was shortly followed by a purchase of the hair mist after one night's performance with the Ostara bottle. This shop excels at realistic smelling florals and Dreamcatcher is one impressive honeysuckle blend that sweeps me away to summertime in the country. The citrus is more pronounced in the soap bar versus in my hair and in regards to the soap formula, we have another keeper as it's gentle and non-drying leaving my skin silky smooth with no tight feeling and no need to add any type of moisturizer after use. I do wish the soap didn't melt away so fast but that only gives me an excuse to purchase the large bars. The fragrance of the hair mist is predominantly photo-realistic honeysuckle with lily of the valley and orange blossom to my nose while others have commented I smell like honeysuckle and incense (either way I'm not complaining and very pleased). For performance the formula seems to work better for me as a styling mist versus detangler. Now that's not saying the mist doesn't detangle, it certainly does (and the scent lasts) but it does leave a slightly stiff effect on my hair when simply brushed in. That may sound negative but it is ideal for creating Marcel Waves that go all the way to the crown of my head. I feel I channel Zelda Fitzgerald with that effect. Another keeper for my vanity and I'm anxious to get my nose into a Lovecraft bottle. The following items arrived with my second order (thank you for everything, Alchemic Muse!) and will be full sized purchases. The whole Kabloom! collection is coming home to me. Cloud Nine soap sample (Description and Notes: An ethereal clean and creamy white floral blend with billowing white blossoms of Victorian lilacs with wisps of sweet jasmine, white rose, white violet and cherry heliotrope. Floating beneath is a thick layer of fresh cream raining onto a bed of white raspberries.) I'm happy to say, the formula of the soap is consistent across the board and the scent of Cloud Nine is as I can only describe what a spring angel would smell like; it's floral, dreamy AND even contains violets that behaved with my chemistry. No cough syrup but only creamy classic white and light purple florals. I think in addition to the soap bar I need Cloud Nine in the hair mist. Into the basket it all goes (my pocketbook is really doomed come Black Friday this year). Orange Blossom Tea soap sample (Description and Notes: An exquisite, sultry scented blend of orange blossom petals with bergamot, muguet lily, and fresh green notes over a heart of robust black tea accented by a sheer, earthy base of oak, sweet hay, and light musk) I think it is safe to say, 2019 is the year of Orange Flower/Blossoms for my bath and body collections and Orange Blossom Tea is another creation I need to add to my basket in different formats as this one is sweet and feminine with the orange blossom and the underlying tea stays true and adds a unique warmth to the floral and green notes. I'm curious to see if the fragrance would morph on my skin or if the hay would appear more. Only one way to find out. Turkish Delight bath melt (Description and Notes: Jellied candy flavored with rose water and coated with powdered sugar) This was a first for me as I never used a bath melt before and I'm happy to say Turkish Delight is the beginning of another collection for myself. Not only did this melt smell divine (and last quite awhile when broken up- 4 baths in total I got enjoy with it) but hints of pretty sugared rosewater still lingered on my skin an hour later leaving my water filled sanctuary. I admit I'm on a severe rose kick right now and this melt hit the spot (it's like bathing in rose petals and a bit of sugar). It also softened my skin to a petal finish (even my elbows) and works just as well as bath salts for my tired muscles and sore joints. Needless to say I will be purchasing Turkish Delight and exploring more releases from this charming shop. Alchemic Muse It is a truth universally acknowledged that a lady in possession of unwanted creases and dry skin must be in want of a fabulous cream and serum. Whether that lady (or gentleman) is only just noticing them for the first time in the mirror or has lived with skin changes for awhile because they do not believe there can possibly to a solution or relief to such a common unwelcome thing, LittleBits is there for us when you need a little special something from researched nature (the tried and true historical recipes) and thank goodness because this lady needed that little something badly. Being a certain age when my skin seems to have a mind of its own I started noticing lines, dryness with dullness in places which all began to make me self-conscious and that is a terrible feeling. To my favourite marketplace platform I went a haunting and I really do believe in perfect timing because one of my first searches brought me the listing of the 24kt Gold Egyptian Serum from LittleBits and I honestly couldn't leave the page alone, so after contacting the owner with quite a few questions and personal concerns about how well her products would fair well on my sensitive skin, I purchased my first introductory sampling which shortly after became the largest haul I have ever ordered from any indie shop. Long story short, these amazing items have worked wonders for me and like my mom, grandmothers and aunts whom all found their own favorite skin creams/serums/powders that never left their vanities and handbags, I have found mine! 24kt Gold Egyptian Serum Egyptian Oil Listed Materials: 24kt Gold, Myrrh, Frankincense, Egyptian Geranium, Grape Seed Oil Appearance/Fragrance: In the amber bottle that comes with a handy long cosmetic pipette the contents are a yellow colour with actual gold flakes floating in the oil that fill the entire space of the bottle when shaken (you are sure to get flashes of gold in every application). The scent is true frankincense that is a sharp smelling resin and this serum also has an intoxicating lemon-like note present. It's instantly relaxing for me and I love to wear this oil to go to sleep. Performance/Results: THIS is the product I sorely wish I found years ago so I could have staved off some of the unpleasant permanent signs on my skin but overall this serum performs amazingly well and I love adding this bottle to my morning routine before I slip back to bed to get ready for another shift. The gold actually dissolves into my skin and I noticed positive results within a week of using this item (I can wear this all over my face even my chin, along my jawline and nose). It doesn't fight my sensitive skin but soaks right in and even helped with the annoying roughness on my cheeks and helps keep acne at bay. I think this is the oil that has helped soften the crease in my eyebrows the most in conjunction with the 1896 Cleopatra's Enamel. Would I repurchase?: YES *Side Note: In addition to the positive results I have noticed in the mirror and can feel when I touch my face, I adore the history that is incorporated into the selection of the materials used and I found the facts supplied on the product's pages absolutely fascinating (I could read all day long about the healthful properties of herbs and resins). A Lily Pomatum For Wrinkles 1772 Fine Line Salve Listed Materials: Vitamin E, Jojoba Oil, Almond Oil, Therapeutic Grade *White Lily Oil, Organic White Beeswax, Organic Natural WI Honey Appearance/Fragrance: I first received this item in a small beautifully labelled bag then I upgraded to a jar size as soon as it ran out. The cream is a creamy white that requires a quick stir with a plastic spoon and the fragrance is a dreamy delicate lily with powder. The adorable jar is about the size of a lip balm. It's not very large but the contents last quite a while and I can't argue about the moisturizing effect it holds. Performance/Results: I readily admit I have no idea what I'm doing with creams/serum/salves or know if I'm overdoing it with layering everything but I do love to experiment where these items perform best and the Lily Pomatum seems to go best on my cheeks, along my jawline (my skin is tight as a drum again!), neck and on that blasted line between my eyebrows that was so deep looking before I found LittleBits. Would I repurchase?: YES Side Note: *I do take caution when I use this pomatum around my cat (it does contain actual white lily oil and ground root) so I make sure to wash my hands and keep him away from woozing around my face (same with my dogs)- it never hurts to be a little more careful when it comes to lilies and cats (or dogs). 1896 Cleopatra's Enamel Listed Materials: Almond Oil, Rose Water, Myrrh, Honey, Bees Wax, Rose Appearance/Fragrance: As the same with the Lily cream, I first ordered this as a sample then upgraded to a small jar that looks so lovely displayed on my 120+-year-old vanity. The scent is hard to truly describe, it's very light and sweet creamy wax with a hint of almond. The contents of the jar are opaque ivory that is thick and pliable (can be rolled around your fingers to make a ball before applying) but quickly spreads when gently pushed into the skin. I like to use this one of the most noticeable lines as it fills the creases in completely and (in my mind) plumps up those areas. I use a small plastic spoon to take small scrapes of the salve before applying. A little goes a long way. Performance/Results: As you probably can tell I've never used many skin care products (except acne creams and generic makeup) so I'm still learning where and how to use everything. Through some morning testing, I found this enamel does not fair well on my cheeks, chin or nose but it does work nicely on my forehead, elbows, back of my hands (even as a cuticle oil/cream) and this is another item I love to fall asleep wearing. Would I repurchase?: YES 1772 Cold Cream Orange Flower - Toilet De Flora Body Cream Listed Materials: Virgins Wax, Jojoba, Almond Oil, Orange Flower Water, Ben, Jasmine, Orange Appearance/Fragrance: When I opened my first parcel from LBCC I think this cream leaked a tiny bit from the small sample bag (soon then after replaced with a large purchased jar) as it was the first heavenly aroma that greeted me when I opened the box. I believe this scented item (along with MoonaLisa's creation known as Whole) is what set me on a frantic search for anything with orange blossom listed. It's incredible and so historically important if you take the time to read about the famous women who favoured that fragrance. The cream is thin and is an almost transparent white in colour (and it is the same in the jar). Performance/Results: I had to research how to correctly use and delve into my memory to remember how my Baba used her creams but I think I have it now: a nice slightly thick application over my makeup (concentrating around my eyes), a few minutes of enjoying the aforementioned amazing scent composition then a hot to touch washcloth to wipe the cream away starting at my cheeks then leaving my eyes last. This cold cream works wonderfully well at melting away my stubborn mascara and I definitely notice a moisturizing effect when I use it. Would I repurchase?: YES *Full Disclosure: Makeup scares me. There I said it. I've never really worn that much and when any other time I played around I would look like well more of a horrific parody of a lady of the evening versus polished or never felt like myself and that I had this heavy itchy mask on I couldn't wait to get off. I've also never had any luck finding a shade that would match my skin (I'm extremely cool toned) or one that didn't look like cake batter when applied then later left me with painful welts. I've used a gamut of commercial makeup brands over the years and my most recent was Bare Minerals for powder, blush and lipstick. 1912 Sultana Cold Cream Listed Materials: Jojoba Oil, Bees Wax, Almond Oil, Cocoa Butter, Orange Flower Water, Peru Balsam Appearance/Fragrance: This was one of the only products I didn't get to purchase as a smaller sample first and I had no idea what to expect when I opened the beautiful frosted jar so I'm thrilled to say this light fawn coloured cream smells like expensive melted gourmand chocolate! The consistency is simply fascinating as it starts out somewhat solid for a cream but as soon as it touches the skin, it melts like butter (a little goes a very long way and there is a trace of balsam and orange if I concentrate to find the notes). Performance/Results: I would love to sing the praises of the results for this cold cream on myself but sadly this is the only product I purchased that I had a negative reaction to (figures). So instead of my face or elbows, I use this cream on my feet and I really like the softness around my heels and I also have been experimenting with this jar on my cuticles and on my legs. I did get one-half day of use for this formula as an intended cold cream and yes it works to remove makeup, so ignore the rambling lady who has weird unpredictable skin; you want a jar and want to feel you are slathering your face in expensive chocolate, get it. Would I repurchase?: Sadly, no. Only due to the fact that my skin still delights in tormenting me. 1908 Rose Complexion Powder Listed Materials: Rice Powder, Rose Powder, Sandal Wood, Organic Rose, Organic Rose Petals, Natural Essential Oil Appearance/Fragrance: The finely ground powder is a delicate shade of fitting rose and the scent is an equally light floral with a barely-there touch of warm sandalwood. The tin is nicely sized (gorgeously designed) and I feel I will get perhaps a full year out of the contents. Performance/Results: Where has this product been all my life!? It matches my skin tone perfectly and even blurs some imperfections. I love I can touch my face and actually feel my skin versus a greasy mask and I'm impressed it actually absorbs the oil that I work up when I'm dashing about the floor at my workplace. The real test will be this summer and I may have to reapply here and there throughout the day but we shall see. Would I repurchase?: YES (this is a lifetime repurchase for me and I hope it is never discontinued) 1922 Setting Powder Listed Materials: French Talc, Organic Lemon Oil, Organic Bergamot Oil Appearance/Fragrance: Finely ground powder with minute dark specks in it. There isn't a discernable scent to it but maybe it does in the tin which I don't own. It also has a silky feeling to it when touched. Performance/Results: Alone this powder achieves the ethereal appearance that was popular during the 1920's so I think I will use this for events and if I'm lucky be wearing this for the Great Gatsby New Year's themed parties at the end of this year. In the meantime, I do like to carefully layer this over the 1908 powder in spots as it adds a little more protection against oil on my forehead and along my hairline. I really need to buff and blend to get an even look if used all over but I do like this product. Would I repurchase? YES especially if the 100% Pure Pearl Powder was ever discontinued. 100% Pure Pearl Powder Listed Materials: As it says on the tin- PEARLS Appearance: I don't how she did it but I'm holding actual crushed pearls with this product and about to blend them over my face. You can't get more fancy feeling than using real 24kt gold and crushed pearls in self-care and makeup. I love this shop! Performance/Results: Here is another item I have searched years for and wish I found much sooner. This powder works so well over the 1908 formula and blurs some of my scarring. It also softens the pores on my nose that I can't seem to get rid of completely. Finally must mention a few words about the handy mini cosmetic puff that is included with this tin, it adds another touch of refinement and again I feel so fancy and "right" when I use these products. Would I repurchase?: YES Liquid Bloom of Roses 1780 - 1958 Vintage Lip Stain/Cheek Stain Listed Materials: Carmine, Rose Water, Essence of Roses, Organic Rose Oil Appearance/Fragrance: The contents are a deep red with an undertone of blue. The scent is incredible, to say the least, I wish I had a perfume that matched this bottle exactly. It's floral of course but it's so much more and that is true rose water I can smell; you seriously need to smell it for yourself to understand. In terms of the bottle, it's perfect to display and I love that the packaging is a reproduction of the actual label that was used in the 18th century. Performance/Results: Confession time- one full application of this stain and I threw away my powder blush and lipstick I have been using for years. There is no comparison and I can't recommend this bottle enough for those out there that are cool toned (this stain was made for us). I'm still puzzling out how many layers to apply but I think I'm satisfied with 4 to 6 and I'm happy to say that even though I apply the stain with my finger it doesn't transfer to my work clothing if I happen to adjust my name badge or the bedding which I was worried about (if it does I don't notice or it's a very light spot of pink). For durability, this stain lasts the whole night and if I would let it go I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted into the next afternoon- never had that happen with any commercial blush. I also never had a blush that well made me look like I'm blushing and this Liquid Bloom of Roses does just that, it looks so natural on and yes it also adds a fresh bitten look to my lips (no lipstick I ever tried produced that before). The only negative is this product is drying to my skin and lips but I feel that is a small price to pay and easily remedied when I don't have it on plus that's what lip balm is for. Would I repurchase?: YES (another lifetime repurchase item) 1922 Vegetal Red Rose Liquid Rouge Listed Materials: Carmine, Natural Rose Oil, Organic Rose Water Appearance/Fragrance: Very similar to the 1780-1958 stain but it's brighter in that deep red and can be described as "berry pink" (think freshly squeezed or mashed strawberries). The scent is the same as 1780-1958 formula but it may be a little subdued in ways. Performance/Results: I purchased a sample vial as I loved the red "fresh bitten" look on my lips but wanted it darker, this rouge works and I get my desired look after about 3 coatings. Oddly this stain transfers more when I touch things so I do use caution. Should mention with both stains they last all night even with eating and drinking. Finally, I'm sure to keep a lip balm near with this liquid rouge/lip stain. Would I purchase a bottle?: YES One Note at a Time 1920's Lilies & Lilac Toilet Water This ultra-delicate oil leaves just enough of a lovely spring imprint on my mind and I keep returning to it. I love this one all for different reasons than what I was initially looking for in an oil (I want this bottle for after shaving and to sprinkle on my bed sheets, so into the basket it goes for my birthday or Black Friday). For a perfume to wear throughout the day, it's pretty as a lilac perfume should be but hardly has any longevity (even in my hair I get 2 hours tops) and as much as I love lilies, they upstage the lilac. I have my fingers crossed the upcoming lilac perfume will be exactly what I'm looking for. Bouquet de I'Imperatrice Josephine perfume (Natural Rose Oil, Natural Rosewood Oil, Organic Rose Petals, Natural Jasmine Oil, Natural Sandalwood, Organic Almond Oil and Musk) I only have a sample of this magnificent perfume but soon I will have a bottle as this is a timeless fragrance which transports my imagination far away and I feel like absolute royalty when I wear it. There is a delicate rose that brushes the skin and the jasmine with sandalwood adds a warm romantic complexity to Bouquet de I'Imperatrice Josephine that I haven't experienced in anything within my collection. I appreciate this is by no means a brash rendering of the notes that would usually give me a headache or scream soap to my nose, every note is blended so well creating an elegant softness that I have been searching for and finally found. Jane Austen's Garden perfume (Rose, Lavender, Forest, Orange, Lilac, Rose Geranium, Jasmine, Rosemary and Voilet) Ahh! This is what I could only imagine a real English garden to smell like (velvety roses overhanging a garden wall and woody lavender bordering the walk with geraniums and deep purple violets in the window box) and I will be taking this enchanting oil with me when I travel to Bath and Hampshire someday. This is the type of perfume to wear on those days when you have many responsibilities but for a time you would rather let my mind relax and enjoy the sunshine. Jamie's Passion perfume (No listed notes but it described as: "This lovely light amber perfume oil is uniquely based on an original 18th-century love potion and mixed with the popular scents of the 1940's.") I'm still trying to decipher this oil as I get a waft of lemon thyme of first application then a clean warm amber emerges and amps (or glows) then it fades down to something akin to violets. It lasts about 2 hours on my skin and about 4 hours in my hair. Here is another oil I will be taking with me when I travel. Orange Flower Oil *I can't speak highly enough about the customer service practices at this shop because when I fell hard for the scent in 1772 Orange Blossom cold cream I sent a message to the shop owner to see if I could get a perfume to smell exactly like the jar. Not only could she recommend an oil but she even offered to dilute a specially prepared oil for me and add it to my custom order (thank you so much, Alicia!). Marking down another note I'm completely enamoured with and need more of in my collection. This oil is fantastic for everyday wear (especially in the workplace setting) but I've found I prefer to keep this gem at home and allow this bottle to banish any negative mood (that citrus note is sublime) and revitalize my creativity (wearing it right now as I type away). Bulgarian (Otto) Rose Oil *Here is another oil that was specially recommended by Alicia at LittleBits as I asked if she had a perfume that matched the scent in the Liquid Bloom of Roses, she suggested the Josephine Perfume along with many others including this oil. Overall Bouquet de I'Imperatrice Josephine comes the closest to matching but I still like the Bulgarian (Otto) Rose Oil. When applied it isn't the sharp caustic florals it's actually a dainty rose and reminds me more of petals rather than a full stemmed rose. I am finding that rose oils fade fast on my skin so this is another fragrance I love to brush into my hair (my hair also seems to unlock the hidden spiciness from the roses which I love). I will definitely be wearing this when I attend different events this year. There you have it, my whole current trove of self-care, oils and makeup from LittleBits/LBCC Historical Apothecary. I've had tremendous success overall and I will be heading back to visit this charming shop again soon, I feel like I have reconnected with a lost piece of myself when I use these items and there are still so many other products I want to explore and learn more about.
LittleBits/LBCC Historical Apothecary The Poison Garden collection: Aconitum Atropa Belladonna Conium Maculatum Datura Metel Nerium Oleander One Note at a Time Aconitum (Listed Notes: Wolfsbane, tangled roots, wildflower field, metal, storm, rock, black fur, wild musk) In the vial: FRESH CUT SUN-WARMED GRASS and swaying MEADOW GREENS Applied: Aconitum is an instant summertime snapshot as this brings to mind my Pap mowing the grass just before a thunderstorm hits with me just staring into the grey-black churning sky watching "angels bowl" as my grandfather always called it, the cut grass I can smell is incredibly realistic and I can detect a distinct storm element in this. It's at this point where I have my nose to wrist in complete nostalgic bliss with happy tears that a sweet stone note with an almost sudsy quality rises and hits hard and stays for nearly 8 hours. Up until that point I would have purchased a full bottle or gallon but I'm not a fan of the sudsy wet gravel rock scent that overtakes every other note. I must also jot down that Aconitum does not smell like my treasured Lycanthrope and I can't pick up any black fur, flowers or musk. A Happy Little Accident (curious pairing and saving grace): Aconitum + Alkemia Perfumes' Bacchante (High bush blueberries, wild ivy, Spanish lavender, aged oakmoss, tonka, decaying bark, and forest fungi)= storm watching while picking blueberries deep in the forest. The odd sweet soapy stone note is thankfully tempered with the realistic juicy blueberries and it creates a whole new fragrance I love to mix before I shut out the sun and sleep the day away for night shift. Atropa Belladonna (Listed Notes: Nightshade berry, narcotic flowers, green tomato, green pepper, soil, broomstick, velvet plum) In the vial: COLD DEW-DRENCHED TOMATO LEAF and GREEN PEPPER Applied: This at first smells like canning green peppers in the basement with garden soil still on your shoes. Again an incredibly realistic blend that creates a distinct scene. As this oil dries I amp the green pepper and the potting soil accord with a dark plum slowly coming out behind all the spicy greenery. I don't get any flowers or berries but I do get the "velvet" impression and something that stays cold smelling. I was secretly hoping Atropa Belladonna would be a long lost sister scent to Winifred but where Winifred is green and purple velvet floral skirts fluttering across the silver-white moon over a graveyard, Atropa Belladonna is planted in a wet garden and may hold a deadly secret, depending on who you ask. I love that despite them sharing similiar notes they tell completely different tales. This one is a keeper but I need to remember to watch what other fragrance this vial touchs as the scent of spicy green pepper gets on everything and lingers! Conium Maculatum (Listed Notes: Hemlock flower, citrus blossom, coumarin, lavender spike, tobacco leaf, castoreum, oak, bergamot, dried iris) In the vial: CITRUS BLOSSOM, BERGAMOT and LAVENDER. It brings to mind Every Frozen Heart with that nifty frozen citrus ice pop fragrance. Applied: Ah! There's the promised lavender but it is a fleeting note as this strange mix of citrus and orris amps creating something sweet and freaky. I'm not sure I care for Conium Maculatum as that blend of citrus triggers my head. It's also leaning toward too masculine smelling for me but thankfully it doesn't last more than a few hours before it fades to lovely powder. I think I will use this in the oil warmer, it smells better in the vial versus my skin sadly. Datura Metel (Listed Notes: Datura blossom, sweet almond, rosewater, sugar cube, vanilla orchid, moth wing, wild honeycomb) In the vial: ALMOND, HONEY WATER and unlisted HONEYSUCKLE Applied: I do believe we have found a favourite vial in this collection for I am a deadly smelling hummingbird with Datura Metel and love it! I can't get enough of Sixteen92's honey and almond accords and here they are beautifully meshed. There is definitely something mysterious and floral in this blend and I'm falling hard for the drydown that has warm vanilla and powder. It almost smells like nectar from a honeysuckle vine but that note isn't listed. Wretched timing to be cautious of extra spending otherwise I would get a few items with this fragrance. Oh well, there is always the Resurrection event and this vial should get me through the summer unless I dump it on my head like I have been resisting to do since it arrived. Mmm Datura Metel is so pretty (it's in the same vintage vein of Mellifera), why aren't more people gushing about this gem? A must try if you love sweet honey scents. Nerium Oleander (Listed Notes: White & pink oleander, heliotrope, apple seed, sweet custard, pineapple, thyme, coconut water) In the vial: APPLE, VANILLA and a drop of PINEAPPLE JUICE Applied: Mmm... I guess I saved the best two for last as Nerium Oleander is another favourite which completely shocks me because it has coconut and pineapple yet somehow this blend works. Right away this perfume opens with a realistic apple note with creamy thick custard then the coconut and pineapple ring around this scent dessert making me question everything I ever thought about coconut fragrances. I guess I really don't hate them all and it all depends what accords they are paired with or the scent artist because this oil is divine and I will wear this. Oh, this oil reminds me of another surprise hit coconut blended perfume from last year- Really Most Sincerely Dead. Nerium Oleander is missing the honey, poppy seeds and licorice but it's fluffy and delicious smelling just like Really Most Sincerely Dead. If asked I would say this perfume smells exactly like what you would imagine would be on the judging table at The Great British Bake Off. Another keeper and a vial I could drink! And that concludes my year with The Circle program. I learned quite a bit throughout the months of sniffing, dabbing and slathering at different times those 27 different fragrances and could ramble all day about my personal discoveries but the main truth I must admit to myself is I'm a Halloween/Fall and Spring type of collector and prefer those seasons/releases to all others and wish there was an option available to purchase those early seasonal collections solely. Looking at the notes within the several releases I have a better success rate with spices, florals and quasi gourmands than for example pine or stone. My journey is over but I highly recommend The Circle to anyone that is able and ready to explore many facets and profiles of fragrances (with additional added perks for joining, who doesn't love coupons?). You never know what you will unexpectedly fall for and this subscription was a unique opportunity to learn something new about myself (I adore gardenias now and can't get enough of them, found my Victorian or Edwardian Ghost dream perfume and real successes with coconut accords, which all is huge). I hope to read everyone else's impressions plus personal scent journeys sometime and who knows if the Half Circle program ever returns, I may again see those lovely mysterious black boxes someday waiting for me. Thank you all for reading and don't worry this isn't the end of me purchasing from Sixteen92 (that will never be) this was just something I needed to share in case anyone was curious why I won't be contributing early Sixteen92 reviews for the year. I'm happy to wait just like everyone else. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean Time to share all of the decadence and a small serving of the dreamy springtime gourmands from MoonaLisa! Bubbling Brew Salt Soak in Lemon Poundcake with Carmelized Sugar (Gathered Notes and Description: Rich yellow pound cake with zesty Lemon EO, and a caramelized sugar crunch!) The scent is more delicate than I was hoping but I love the initial wafts of sweet tart lemon cake with warm caramel when the bubbles form and I can't deny this soak softens my skin and melts away any tension (like buttah for my joints and tight muscles). Next LTEC release I'm getting this fragrance in the EdP perfume form or in a detangler (I actually prefer Lemon Poundcake with Carmelized Sugar to the Lemon Sugar Cookie fragrance which I will share my thoughts on shortly). I know it is silly but I must admit I'm absolutely captivated by the artwork on the bag which has a picture of decadently dressed ladies (one is a radiant young Marie Antoinette all in her iconic finery) from the 18th century complete with colorful taffeta, farthingales, boned corsets and elaborate hairpieces. I wish I could capture the true magnificence of Moona's packaging. Perfume Oil in Aurelia (Gathered Notes and Description: Delicious ripe raspberries top this lovely raspberry jam filled white wedding cake, doused with vanilla cream, and topped with dried red rose petals and a hint of sandalwood ambered musk) Ah! How do I find the right words to describe an olfactory masterpiece and explain a true scent love story? Let me try: The sweetness and tartness of the raspberries and realistic buttercream in Aurelia are tempered beautifully with the hint of strewed rose petals, sandalwood and amber (that amps more in the crooks of my arms versus wrists or neck) easily bringing to mind raspberry sherbet (even a hint of passionfruit) on top of white cake fit for royalty. Aurelia is a complete surprise win in my book (I'm usually more drawn to dark and moody perfumes especially at the end of winter), I never knew how much joy I would get out of smelling like a walking talking frilly valentine. This beautiful scent masterpiece just melted away the winter blues for me and I can't recommend this heavenly oil enough especially if you love floral gourmands. Holy Grail status (for those wondering that's seven heavenly holy grail fragrances I have discovered at this shop). Argan Oil Hair Rescue in Aurelia So after I fell hard for my sample of Aurelia I had to get the argan oil and if possible this fragrance is even better in my curls. When applied to my own bouffant it is transformed into a fragrant billowing tower of realistic fresh raspberries and rich buttercream with stewn roses that lasts all night and I must share that after several days of slathering and stealing sniffs from the bottle(s) it finally hit me why I love Aurelia so much- it smells exactly like one of the greatest desserts I ever had the pleasure to have on my plate years ago at a special event with added rose petals and I want to drown in this fragrance. Nothing like being reunited with food memories and having incredible shine and softness to your curls. Two free samples nestled in these above orders, thank you so much MoonaLisa! Mini Guest Soap (Listed Ingredients and Notes: African Black Soap, Colloidal Oatmeal, Frankincense and Rose Oils) Where was this bar on the website because I would have purchased a full sized version. I am officially on the hunt for frankicense and rose soap now as this tiny golden coloured square holds a timeless combination that is pure mediatative and perfect for the tub. As with all of this shop's soap creations, it's extremely gentle to my sensitive skin and not one breakout to report. Basically my skin just drinks in this soap and I can't wait to grab it and race for my water filled sanctuary. Mead Moon (Gathered Notes and Description: This full moon is said to be the signal for harvest of wild strawberries. In Europe, you may also hear it called the Honey Moon, Mead Moon or the Full Rose Moon. This scent is inspired by the romance of Mead and the Strawberry Moon, notes of Wild Strawberries, Wild Raw Honey, Rose, Cedar, Oud and spice) This is a rare perfume in my collection and I can't honestly say I have anything like it to compare to so going by the notes that amp on me, it's a tobacco honey and strawberry medley with a resiny rose heart. Depending on how the winds are blowing outside I catch a strawberry accord that smells realistic and it brings back fond memories of baking with freshly picked strawberries and there is also a dirty earthy honey I can't stop sniffing. This oil can be camphorous but I personally love that about it. Found my special fragrance for June 17th. Up next, boxes of florals and a relaxing treasure for the bath to recommend. Get ready to slather and soak, springtime has officially arrived... Bath Salts in Sea Witch (Gathered Notes and Description: The relaxing and invigorating at the same time, with a fresh spray of oceanic scent is made with essential oils of Cypress and Spruce. The salts are a blend of exotic sea salts and DEAD SEA salts, Noirmoutier salts, which both are unbelievably rich with minerals and essential oils of Cypress and Spruce) I've had my eye on this item ever since I learned about MoonaLisa last October and let me tell you the wait was definitely worth it and I must remember to hoard as many jars I can next year. I wasn't expecting to be pampered by such a grounding fragrance that smells earthy yet oceanic and my home spa experience is admittedly more entertaining now than any bath should be as the "blooming" dark ruby coloured seaweed takes me away along with the soothing salts that just ease away ever ache and care. You want to feel like a pampered sea enchanter (good or bad, your choice) get these salts and lean back and relax. Ah! This jar will be in the proud empty-indie-pile in no time. Spray-in Hair Spring Detangler in Lemon Sugar Cookie (Gathered Notes and Description: Deliciously fresh and zesty exclusive blend of cold pressed Lemon essential oil, and a blend of scrumptious cookie fragrance oils makes this a mouthwatering combination, but do not eat!) I'm still not quite sure about this fragrance as I get more iced animal cracker versus any chewy lemon sugar dusted cookie, oddly. I like it but I'm looking for a combination of cookie and cake I think, maybe even with a hint of cheesecake, something tart and strong. I know that scent combination exists. In any case, the detangler will be used until the last drop. Who doesn't want to smell like an Iced Animal Cracker? Spray-in Hair Spring Detangler and Perfume Oil in Indigo Wine (Gathered Notes and Description: A fresh and gloriously blue blend of Hydrangea's and Hyacinths!) I purchased Indigo Wine at the exact same time as another hyacinth fragrance was released from a different shop and thought I would have a good old fashioned hyacinth battle royale on my vanity and head but it was a knockout by first sniff and the title goes to ...Ostara by Alchemic Muse (reviews coming soon). I know I'm shocked as well but I have to be honest, Indigo Wine although realistic in the gorgeous diamond studded bottle this is more wet garden and greenery than I wanted on my skin. In my hair the wet greenery is tempered and although exceedingly pretty it may be a little too fresh and clean for me leaning toward hair conditioner smelling which in a way works out perfectly for a hair item. Perhaps the lilac and hyacinth blend I have read about from the Summer release last year will be a better match for me. Spray-in Hair Spring Detangler in Bee's Knees (Gathered Notes and Description: Honey, honeysuckle and hyacinth) As it says on the tin, this is a rich and heady mixture of golden honey, honeysuckle and hyacinth. Out of the three detanglers I purchased from this release, Bee's Knees is my choice pick and I plan to get an argan oil of this lovely fragrance next year. *The following items and vials were found nestled in my orders, thank you so much, Moona! Bug Resist Balm (Ingredients: Cocoabutter, Beeswax, Coconut & Almond Oil, Essential Oils of Lavender, Peppermint and Lemongrass) Mint Chocalate Chip, baby! Oh yum, wait this is bug balm? Yes, dear readers, this small glass jar holds one delectable mixture that works wonders to repel late spring insects and is perfect for outside events as the scent stays close to my skin. Tried and tested as mosquitos and invisible biting flies find me a delicacy, I have been dabbing a little on when I go out on the porch to look at the moon or watch the fireflies late at night and not one bite around my ankles. I have also been using this as a curl pomade because why not? And yes at times I want to eat my hair, love this scent (I can't get enough peppermint and chocolate in my life). I'm definitely taking this balm with me for the upcoming Fourth of July cookouts and packing it away for camping. Katherine (Listed Notes: Amber, Cocoa, Woods and Rose) All hail the Queen of Gourmands as this scent artist can do chocolate notes like no other. This is long lasting regal decadence and brings to mind S'mores & Hot Cocoa but the rich Valentine's Day version and Katherine is goes down on the list as another full bottle (plus bath salts or scrub) purchase eventually. The rose, sandalwood and warm amber in this perfume is another level of captured romance and is a timeless combination. It's absolutely magnificent and a gourmand-floral to recommend. Alexandria (Gathered Notes and Description: Soft, woody, mossy, floral, and about 13 other components, with hints of ambergris, dry old book pages and a touch of intoxicating sweet labdanum) I have finally found a book fragrance without any leather and it somehow smells like scattered book pages in the winds. There is a realistic moss note in the opening that I could roll around in and I'm also in love with the wood accord in this blend. True to the description Alexandria is a soft, woody with dry book pages and a kiss of resins. I will definitely be using this oil for reading and relaxing. I wonder how this fragrance would transform in the bath? Only one way to find out, on the list it goes. Ramo's Raspberry & Rose (Gathered Notes and Description: Inspired by Famed New Orleans barman Henry C. Ramos, said to have invented this rich, potent, and frothy egg white and, sugary and cream cocktail in the 1880s, with my twist of fresh, and zesty Rhubarb, a touch of Bulgarian Rose absolute, and a touch of Vetiver to ground it out) Potent is a great way to describe this perfume on first application but it is also addicting as I can't stop smelling my wrist. Who knew Bulgarian Rose and Rhurbarb would create such a perfect garden matchup. As it dries down the tartness with floral settles and morphs into an effervescent creamy and sugary raspberry scent, what wondeful scent socrery is this? I can honestly say, I have nothing like Ramo's Raspberry & Rose in my whole collection or knew anything like this blend existed. Mmm it's so lovely and unique. A perfect scent cocktail for summer! Don't Get Your Knickers In A Twist (Gathered Notes & Description: This unusual scent is fresh and a wakeup call! Essential oils of: Fresh Lemon, Cardamom, Coriander, Patchouli & Bergamot) Dream lemon verbena and sassafras scent, is that really you?! Mmm this smells like fresh squeezed sweet lemonade and spicy lemon verbena braided with sassafras. I could happily drown in this fragrance. This is country summertime and rambling through the woods, all in one vial. Please send me everything in this fragrance. Everyone can leave now, show's over, oh wait I need to mention about the patchouli note that stays until the next afternoon with a spicy pepper note. Where has Don't Get You Knickers In A Twist been all my life? Holy Grail number eight, right here. Vials Ethereal Lace Ivory Lace Lemon Lace Pink Lace Serene Lace Tea-Stained Lace Crowned (from the Bonny & Buxom collection) One Note At A Time
Ethereal Lace (white lilac + old books, Vanille, antique lace) In the vial: LEATHER and an AIRY SWEET LOTION scent Applied: This was the vial I was anticipating the most when I ordered but alas no lilac is detectable on me versus so many others I have seen gush about Ethereal Lace. I get a not so pleasant combination of glossy leather and something reminding me of my workplace with a sweet powder finish. In regards to the vanilla, it does occasionally peek out behind the thick leather scent but it is more conceptual than I had hoped. There is still something vintage I like about Ethereal Lace but ultimately I don't think this one is keeper for me. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Ivory Lace (three vanillas lashed with amber honey + wrapped in antique lace) In the vial: SWEET POWDERY HONEY and faded VANILLA with WARMTH Applied: Ah! This is a better vial showcasing the elegant lace accord with warm vanilla. Ivory Lace is indeed lovely and romantic without being overpowering (almost a "your skin but better" type of fragrance) and I can detect the faded white florals and a drop of "greenness". It brings to mind the iconic lace ruffs you see in paintings and swaying Queen Anne's lace out in the fields. In terms of longevity, Ivory Lace (don't you adore these gorgeous names?) lasts around 6 hours on me. This would be perfect for those looking for a sweet understated scent that adds just the right amount of something special to finish off a positive day (or night). Lemon Lace (sweet-tart lemon combines with sweet Vanille + antique lace) In the vial: LEMON CURD and creamy POWDER Applied: For a brief time Lemon Lace brings to mind a lemon chiffon creme filling then it disappears to leave a still sweet powdery vanilla that lasts around 3 hours on me. I have to admit it may be my favourite vial out of them all for the workplace setting. It's calming and perfect for spring. Pink Lace (juicy strawberries + pink champagne, Vanille, antique lace) In the vial: STRAWBERRY NERDS CANDIES and CHAMPAGNE Applied: We have a morpher here as Pink Lace warms up with your skin creating a dulcet but refined fruity scent with a smooth vanilla in the background (I want to call this Strawberry Blush). What is it about fruit scents this time of the year? I can't get enough of them and Pink Lace is another keeper for my collection and for my candle warmer. Serene Lace (palo santo incense + a haze of cedar smoke, Vanille, antique lace) In the vial: MINTY WOOD, SMOKE and VANILLA Applied: The longer I allow Serene Lace to age the more the mint-like wood swirls with church smoke in this blend and I must admit I'm smitten with this creation and so is my cat. This is his choice pick as he won't stop woozing all over my arm when I wear this oil. Serene Lace is a fantastic sleep scent (especially in the oil warmer) and relaxing meditative fragrance for those days you just lock yourself away from the mad world. Tea-Stained Lace (rich pipe tobacco + black tea leaves, Vanille, antique lace) In the vial: MINT TEA and VANILLA Applied: Oh, a little bit of unexpected nostalgia for me as I can detect my dad's pipe tobacco and a wisp of smoke in this oil. It's not the true scent of Captain Black Gold but it's pretty darn close. Next the tannic tea intertwines with the pipe smoke and that crystalline vanilla comes out on the long drydown. Tea-Stained Lace is certainly one of the more polished tea fragrances I have tried. Unfortunately, this blend doesn't last more than 2 hours on me but I still enjoy that brief time it takes me back to another time. Crowned (inspired by Jane Seymour) --a clean blend of lavender, mint and grapefruit, fluffy marshmallow, royal sandalwood *this was a free sample that appeared in my order, thank you Poesie Perfume! I'm not entirely sure about Crowned as I amp the tart grapefruit with mint and am still searching for the lavender I can smell in the vial along with any marshmallow or sandalwood. On me, sadly there just isn't any complexity (and there is a mystery waxy note that I'm not fond of that continues to catch my attention) but I can see why others have been gushing about Crowned (it's uplifting and playful but also has a little mystique to it) and I do enjoy this oil in my warmer. It really sweeps away the cobwebs and aids in the mood of spring cleaning and letting some light in. Tudor Rose cherry rose vanilla cocoa black tea (organic black tea, cocoa nibs, natural vanilla flavor, strawberry pieces, apple pieces, hibiscus, rose petals, lemongrass) *this was a free sample that appeared in my order, thank you Poesie Perfume! I'm still training my palate with brewed teas so I can't honestly say I get all of the individual flavours in this cozy smelling mix but all around this is a great way to wake up and sit down to enjoy (I could happily sniff the mini bag alone all day). Is it my favourite from all the teas I tried from Poesie or any other charming shop? No- Twice to Tea, Fearless and Royale Velvet still reign over all in my pantry but I still quite like Tudor Rose though as it reminds me of Albert + Victoria without the spice (Mmm need to go brew a cup of that gem), is an applaudable capturing of a fascinating topic and if it returns someday, I may spring for a bag (this does make a fine delicous dark fruity brew). How can I not collect something that has cocoa and roses listed? *With many thanks to Poesie Perfume for kindly sending me these perfumes at a discount for sharing my honest thoughts. Poesie Perfume The Strange South You know what they say: You can take the lady out of the country but you can't take the country out of the lady...er they say that right? Well in any case, The Strange South spoke to my "down in the holler" heart with their aesthetic, intriguing note choices and of course the obvious inspirations taken from folklore and ghost stories (plus they have a Hocus Pocus and The Frighteners collection!). I admit I was reading from the shadows others' impressions on Reddit for quite a while curating a special list and only finally pounced when a huge sale was announced (I should have ordered long before that), here is my current trove of the eerie, haunting and beautiful scent stories by The Strange South. And this is only Chapter One. Vials Antebellum Mama Poor Dove Darling The Shell's Here, But The Nut Is Gone Dead Men Only Play The Blues Plaster 300 Years Put A Spell On You Je Veux Mon Livre Slipped Between His Teeth One Note A Time Antebellum (Listed Notes: Peeling wallpaper, dusty cedar cabinets, pipe smoke, lavender, and wisteria) In the vial: A lovely curtain of heady sweet WISTERIA to open the scene along with a SPICY HERBAL and DUSTY WOOD combination. Applied: This is the scent of beautiful remnants of long forgotten love letters tucked away in a cedar chest. The wisteria smells akin to lilac (non-soapy) and the dusty cedar is incredibly realistic in this creation. Although the opening of Antebellum is brief this oil captures a romantic spring in bloom then the dry down is like years have past so quickly and the memories are being revisited and explored by another generation. Absolutely poetry in a vial and it is getting stronger and even deeper with patience. I would love a full bottle eventually. Mama (Listed Notes: Dandelions, iced tea, gingersnap crumbs and jam fingerprints on a little lost girl's cotton dress) In the vial: A glass of iced SWEET LEMON TEA on a table scattered with SPICY GINGERSNAP CRUMBS and Summer SUNSHINE Applied: Mama is more than a random scent story for me as this perfume reminds me so much of a beloved family friend who was the epitome of an aged southern belle and flower child. She could always be found greeting all from the porch with a glass of iced tea in her hand and welcoming smile while Janis Joplin, the Doors or The Beatles played on her stereo from inside the house. Not only have I found a tea blend that plays well with my finicky chemistry, I have been unexpectedly reconnected with good summertime memories and I adore the realistic bright dandelion note in Mama plus the slight spice from the gingersnaps that comes out more after the drydown. It's like a visit to an old friend and an afternoon of porch swinging watching the hummingbirds dart about, all in a vial. Another future full bottle purchase. Miss you so much, E but I know you are dirty dancing with Jim Morrison and Patrick Swayze right now. Poor Dove (Listed Notes: Silver fir, paper wings, tuberose, sugared lilacs, tonka bean, and amber) In the vial: TUBEROSE, AMBER, VANILLA and delicate LILAC Applied: I have read so many reviews about this lovely oil and how it sweeps those away with a floral veil that lasts all day on them but sadly Poor Dove is the one perfume from this lot that doesn't stay more than 5 minutes on my skin and barely lasts 20 minutes in my curls. For that brief time it's gorgeous and indeed ethereal. If I could get this to stay on me I would purchase a full bottle. For curiosity purposes I will be trying the Meadowfoam oil form of Poor Dove the next time I order from this shop, so stay tuned. Darling (Listed Notes: Violet, bitter pomegranate seeds, marshmallow fluff, and frost) In the vial: Cold POWDERY VIOLETS, a DARK SWEET FRUIT and whipped MARSHMALLOW Applied: I can see why this blend is a best seller as it is creamy sweet and powdery with a hint of the unexpected. It's also an impressive shapeshifting fragrance that admittedly catches me off guard just when I think the scent is gone it amps with a different note for another round and lasts a total of 12 hours on me. I'm also thrilled to share that even though Darling contains violets the dark sweetness of the pomegranate and ozone accord from the frost seems to keep the floral aspect in check and I don't smell like a walking cough syrup bottle! In fact, I received random compliments the other night at work and I have to agree I do smell nice. I may experiment more with my vial before committing to full bottle though, just in case that was a fluke (I don't trust you violets, you promise so much and turn into a cruel trickster on my skin...oh, you do smell pretty in Darling though). The Shell's Here, But The Nut Is Gone (Listed Notes: Spilled honey (vegan), brown sugar, and cinnamon over apple skins and peanut dust) In the vial: SPICED APPLE and SALTY PEANUT DUST Applied: Admit it, you giggle when you see this epitaph on a gravestone and can't resist the call of peanut dust..no? Okay, well give it to me then. This perfume is a visit to one of my favourite seasons and makes my mouth water as it smells like sticky pie filling with a creative crust and I'm happy to note that peanuts amp on me and I smell like crunchy roasted peanut butter with brown sugar and cinnamon for a few hours. There is also a wisp of smoke I can detect at certain times and for an extra seasonal escape I have been layering The Shell's Here, But The Nut Is Gone under MX Perfume's Scarecrow. They pair so well together and I can't get enough. Can't we skip summer and go straight to fall? I'm ready and slathered. Dead Men Only Play The Blues (Listed Notes: Menthol cigarettes, sassafras, brown sugar and coconut husk, tuberose and honeysuckle, vanilla, teak wood, and sandalwood) In the vial: COCONUT and a hint of MENTHOL. Should I be worried? Applied: In truth, I zoned out and zoomed in on the listed sassafras when I was choosing my final vials as that note is so rare to see in the indie realm for some reason. Alas, the coconut amps with the cigarettes on me along with something waxy smelling and I get not the worst thing to ever touch my skin but still something unpleasant to my nose and I can only wear this a few minutes then scrub otherwise Dead Men Only Play The Blues will stay on me until the next day. I may offer this vial to a friend who collects coconut heavy fragrances and misses the scent of cigarettes. For me, my search continues for a sassafras perfume. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Plaster (Listed Notes: Mud pie with a pecan crust topped with whipped cream, tart berries, and widow's blood) In the vial: BERRY TOOTSIE ROLL and WHIPPED CREAM Applied: First to note, I don't get any widow's blood or pecans, I get berries and waxy taffy. If I search my memory bank it smells like a combination of the bottom of a Halloween bucket and those wax lips you always traded to younger relatives that didn't know a kit kat or sweet tarts were far more valuable than the wax lips or those large hard popcorn balls from last year. For a revisit back to Halloween when you were allowed to traipse to house to house with snow to your knees and limited supervision, this is a decent fragrance (I do love the whipped cream note that comes out an hour or two later after application) but I don't want a full bottle. I should have went with the Black Cat Oil, Dear Bones or River Song, oh well next round and I will keep an eye out for another perfume from The Strange South with this amazing cream accord listed. 300 Years (Listed Notes: Candle wax shrouded in dust, chilled earth, and brittle black fur) [strikes best Winifred Sanderson pose] 'Tis Time! In the vial: SMOKE and INKY DARKNESS with a pair of golden eyes watching you. The scent of an abandoned house on a cold windy night of mischief. Applied: There is definitely smokey leathery patchouli in this blend and I get some type of burnt wood note with a drop of sweet dragon's blood. 300 Years is the scent to wear for when you miss the cold chill of autumn or are blasting Rob Zombie's Dragula from your car. If there is any musk in this perfume, my nose isn't sophisticated enough to pick it up but I do get the hint of candle wax and 300 Years indeed smells like a dusty black candle in an abandoned house. As this oil is aging more ashes are appearing on the dry down and I will be wearing 300 Years more, using the entire vial before thinking of purchasing this for my vanity. It's not exactly an office safe fragrance but it works splendidly as a sleep potion scent. Put A Spell On You (Listed Notes: Spiked punch, nutmeg, dragon's blood, black musk, and star anise) In the vial: Mmm...as it says on the tin, FRUIT PUNCH, STAR ANISE and sweet and spicy NUTMEG with a drop of DRAGON'S BLOOD Applied: Put A Spell On You starts out with a spicy star anise that makes me dance in my chair and it serves as a marvelous introduction to the dark punch note that swirls and dips throughout the hours. While the dragon's blood and nutmeg indeed puts a spell on my senses and apparently on others because I have heard over the wall at work "does anyone smell punch, is there is party I didn't know about?", so the throw is impressive and into the basket this perfume goes for another day. This is the fragrance to wear when you want to smell like a pretty little witch covered in black sparkly confetti. Je Veux Mon Livre (Listed Notes: Tea leaves and sage pressed between the ancient pages of a leather-bound grimoire) In the vial: LEATHER from an old dusty boot, whew that is strong. Applied: Aging has done this perfume wonders as I can detect the lemony sage with a wisp of incense under the leather now and the brittle dusty pages are coming through more as well. Je Veux Mon Livre is a leather dominant fragrance but I'm happy to share, it doesn't give me a headache. I have quite a few other bottles of book fragrances from other shops but I still like Je Veux Mon Livre. At the same time though it doesn't smell as dark as I'd hoped and surprisingly despite the leather this oil fades quickly on my skin. In truth, this smells more like shiny polished pointy toed shoes versus a book but I love the hidden incense and sage with book page notes complete with ink in this blend. Slipped Between His Teeth (Listed Notes: Ambergris, white florals, cedarwood, bone meal, blackcurrant, and marjoram) *A free sample found in my first order, thank you so much The Strange South! In the vial: Spicy creamy white florals. I've never smelled anything like this before. Applied: Hands down my favourite vial of them all from this shop and Slipped Between His Teeth will be a future purchase. The Strange South has a way with florals, wood, ambergris and herbs and Slipped Between His Teeth beautifully showcases those notes. I never thought of marjoram in a perfume oil but this accord supports the cedarwood and creates an intoxicating spicy wood scent I just want to rub all over myself. Now I must admit it does smell in a way fresh and clean but I honestly don't mind that and I think it only adds to the creamy elegance of this blend. Absolutely work place setting appropriate and is still unique while telling a haunting story all its own. I can't recommend this perfume enough. The Strange South Valentine's Day, love or hate it, there is no denying that day inspires some special themed releases (especially in the realm of Indie Fragrance) and so it goes with the Bordello box by Strange Fire & Fumery. When I saw teasers for this release I decided to make this box my first purchase of 2019. I know it's May but better late than never...so welcome, to the Bordello. One Note at a Time:
The Parlour (Incense) Scent Profile: Lavender, French Vanilla and Vetiver Ladies and Gentleman, we have a new favourite incense blend by Jinx as The Parlour accomplishes what I thought never possible and that is a seductive dreamy lavender in smoke form. I have many types of lavender scents in my collection but nothing like The Parlour. True to its name, this is welcoming bringing to mind vast plush velvet seating and that french vanilla coiled within the smoke which dances from my incense tower is another level of intoxicating and addictive. Mme. Margueritte (Parfum) Top notes of lemon, bergamot, orange blossom, mint and rosemary. Heart notes of clary sage, jasmine and ylang ylang. Base notes of civet and oakmoss So we have been enchanted by The Parlour and now we will be received by Mme. Margueritte, that is a jasmine heavy scent which really amplifies on my skin along with the underlying oakmoss. It's a fresh dominant and memorable fragrance. If I concentrate I can get a trace amount of bergamot but the more it sits the floral aspects take over along with the earthy morphing oakmoss that can go from shaded to sharp on me. I'm not entirely sure about this perfume at the moment, it may need more aging or a special event to be worn to (or someone who loves jasmine dominant perfumes to fully appreciate its complex beauty). Eau de Cologne (Parfum) An exquisite and delicately balanced blend of neroli and French vanilla This was the vial I was waiting for and I was not disappointed as Eau de Cologne is a genteel blend that could be childish with the listed notes but it is definitely refined and can be worn in the workplace setting. It's creamy whipped vanilla that is swirled with a sweet neroli and it ended up as my second favourite blend out of the collection. I feel this scent will be divine to add to the bathtub or be swept up in my hair during the summer months. Otto of Roses (Parfum) Pure Bulgarian Rose essential oil diluted in fractionated coconut oil Can't have Valentine's Day without an image of freshly strewn rose petals and that is exactly what this perfume smells of. There is also something suggestive about this fragrance and no surprise it was my choice pick out of the box and I've worn this oil the most. As much as I adore it, sadly my chemistry devours it like a box of discounted candy. I've had slightly better luck running this oil through my curls but that only gains me a few more hours to enjoy the timeless mystique of Otto of Roses. Still a keeper and one to recommend! Fougère du Étrange (Parfum) A traditional base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss with vanilla infused oak, and Malaysian pomegranate ...Ahem well this creation may be my third favourite but this is the vial I want to dum...excuse me, I mean offer my fella to wear. It's elegant but feral in ways and like a tall drink of water in a frock coat complete with hat and cane. Woah, this is wicked and brings to mind a moody antihero from classic Gothic fiction. The pomegranate adds an intriguing dark sweetness that I need more of in my oil cache. I can't stop sniffing this vial and my arm. The Commandant (Parfum) Rosewood, bourbon, old chair leather and rich sweet tobacco If there ever was a scent that perfectly matched this iconic line:"Now they'll retreat into a cloud of smoke and congratulate each other on being masters of the universe.", The Commandant is it. This smells like a Victorian or Edwardian Smoking Room complete with alcohol that even burns the back of my throat when I smell it. The Commandant certainly tells a striking dignified story but I think this oil is a tad too adventurous for me. Boudoir (Candle) Dreamy lavender and black amber on top of a base of vetiver infused, with casket aged dragonsblood. We were greeted by The Parlour and here we are to lose all sense of decorum with Boudoir as that dragonsblood and amber is otherworldly paired with the familiar unique lavender. This is a fragrance to remember and I'm sad my candle is nearly spent. I must remember to purchase the candle melts soon before this alluring scent disappears. Strange Fire & Fumery Red, white, shiny gold paper all aglow and plaid wrapping along with gorgeous vintage artwork on bottles and bags plus candy nestled with every order! It's time to review all the self-care treats and sniff some captured memories. *Spray-in-Hair Detangler in Gingerbread Man When it comes to detanglers MoonaLisa's formula reigns on my vanity and tames my unruly locks with a supernormal ability that I can't recommend enough to everyone to try for themselves. I do seem to run through my bottles very quickly (about 1 bottle every 2 months) so I make it a necessary purchase from every release to pick up a few detanglers at a time. For winter, I knew I was going to be on the hunt for my holy grail gingerbread fragrance and even though I like Gingerbread Man it isn't THE ONE. When sprayed more citrus is released with cinnamon and I smell more of a spicy lemonade mixture versus a realistic molasses warm cookie fragrance. It may not be ideal for winter for me but I think Gingerbread Man would be divine in the hot summer months. In any case, I used the entire bottle and would repurchase it. *4in1 Shower Gel/Bubble Bath/Shampoo/Cleaner in Gingerbread Man This was my first bottle purchase of the 4in1 and I must say this product is lovely as a bubble bath, shower gel and did surprisingly well as a laundry soap (and the scent lasted on my towels!) but didn't work as well as a shampoo on my thick fine hair, sadly. It may be because I don't have high water pressure in my home but the thin consistency was not easy to get in and out of my hair (I think I'm just a whipped soap type of gal when it comes to my long mane and always will be). In regards to the fragrance again I like Gingerbread Man but I wish it would be more holiday treat versus spicy lemonade. *Argan Oil Winter Hair Rescue in Sugared Plums Another staple on my vanity is the Argan Oil Hair Rescue and when I saw Sugared Plums in the list I immediately placed it in my basket as I have been craving plum with spice. This is exactly what I always envisioned Plum Duff or Skilly ‘n duff to smell like from my favorite book series growing up (Redwall). It's sweet plums, apricots, figs and different spices (my hair amps the dark plums anise and the cardamon). It's delightful, takes my imagination away to enchanting wintertide feasts and the formula is another perfect self-care product in my book. Whoa skilly’n’duff, that’s the stuff, To keep nearby when things get rough! *Bubbling Bath Brew in Snuggler If you haven't guessed by now I am a gourmand fiend and I find dessert scents my ultimate happy time and place escape (especially for the tub) so when I fell hard for the Bubbling Bath Brew in *The Rumpkin! I knew I had to gather a few bags for the unforgiving months to come in different seasonal aromas. Snuggler was at the top of my list to get as I could never decline hot cocoa with peppermint (one of my ultimate guilty pleasures in life). Ah! This brew is divine in every way possible and is like sinking then floating in a bag of melted Andes Chocolate Candies or the inside of a classic York Peppermint Pattie. The added effect of the peppermint bubbles soothing my tired tight muscles and sore joints is a welcome bonus and the cocoa note is completely on point. Simply put, this allows me to forget I have Rheumatoid Arthritis, the cold outside world and is another lifetime repurchase. *Bubbling Bath Brew in S’mores & Hot Cocoa I know it sounds silly but every time I reluctantly leave my water filled sanctuary I believe I just experienced the closest I will ever come to relaxing in a cup of frothy hot cocoa when I use S'mores & Hot Cocoa. Yes it's true and these salts (in any fragrance) just take my imagination away along with my tired muscles, stiff joints and dry skin (it's insane my skin is softer in winter than it ever was in summer). Easily the Bubbling Bath Brews are one of my favourite purchases of 2018 and I want to stock up on every gourmand scented bag from every release and stay in my sweet smelling sanctuary for as long as possible. Mini Guest Soap in Krampus Night! A sample soap that appeared in my order, thank you MoonaLisa! Those souls following my ramblings (thank you all for reading!) know I don't have the greatest luck when it comes to soap and my ultra-sensitive skin but it's a Christmas miracle or Yule Blessing as I can use this shop's soap with not a problem to report and woah is Krampus Night! a nifty morphing little bar of soap. Let's first talk about the presentation that was about the size of a bar of fancy gourmand wrapped chocolate and it absolutely pained me to rip the gold foil as the vintage artwork on top was an old German print I would have loved to of saved for a seasonal bookmark of Krampus riding a sleigh filled with naughty children in a bucket but I wasn't gentle enough and the wrapping fell away to reveal a lump of coal-black soap which was an adorable touch! The texture was smooth and yes I raced off to the tub to use it. The scent was a collage of sweet nostalgic resins with a drop of suede and patchouli and the texture was another creative touch as it was milled with something akin to wood that brushes your skin, gently exfoliating and cleverly plays into the Krampus legend. Now, that is real soapart right there and I hope it returns next year as I want a full sized bar. *above order purchased at full price *Snuggler (Gathered Notes and Description: The drink of choice while wintering in North Beach, San Francisco! Rich dark hot cocoa and peppermint schnapps) So having never tried any of the winter releases I purchased all of these items completely by how I was blown away with the Halloween release and MoonaLisa's supernatural talent to capture realistic gourmand scents in different bottles and here is another I can't recommend enough. In the tub, Snuggler is more Andes Chocolates and cooling Peppermint Pattie with a twist of creamy cocoa but on my skin, I'm instantly swept back to one of the greatest tasting cakes I ever had on my plate at New Year's Eve party long ago. If anyone has ever had the pleasure to try a certain mint chocolate cake in gold foil supposedly from a specialty Chicago bakery that is no longer in business (according to my great aunt), you know that unforgettable aroma I'm talking about. It melted in your mouth and there were chips of dark chocolate in the cake that somehow carried a pop of peppermint that wasn't candy-like but only another level of heavenly dessert. Gah, I miss that cake (if I could taste it just one more time or find a similar recipe) and I can't stop smelling this oil as it smells exactly like it. Snuggler is another holy grail perfume for me, a treasured time in scent form and it only seems to somehow get better (even deeper) with age. A Happy Little Accident (curious pairings): Snuggler + Sixteen92's Habanera (Aldehydes, guava, bergamot flower, water hyacinth, sparkling jasmine, wild clover)= a flower straight out of Willy Wonka's dream garden! Holy cats, why hasn't anyone tried this before, the mint in Snuggler melds so perfectly with the aldehydes in Habanera and the delicate jasmine along with the water hyacinth makes a cool refreshing unique "aquatic" blending while the realistic cocoa pairs beautifully with the guava in Habanera. I smell pretty and delicious, a chocolate flower under a bubbly waterfall...Mmm... *Kris Kringle (Gathered Notes and Description: Deep in the Northern Black Forest, Kris Kringle leaves a trail of enchanting aromas as he gathers our Yuletide delights!! Blend of various Woodland Accords, Yuletide Spices, Vetiver, and Douglas Fir essential oil!) If this is what Kris Kringle smelled like in the olden days no wonder he had a gaggle of children following him, wanting him in their homes and became an iconic legend! Mmm this is pine, spices and warm baked orange cookies to me. On my skin the pine fades but unexpectedly stays (what holiday magic is this?) in the background and the old fashioned orange drop cookie moves forward taking me completely away to once happy holidays and baking up a storm for family wedding celebrations at the same time. If there ever was a perfect cozy winter scent, Kris Kringle is it. This perfume also lasts well into the next night (yes night!) and I swear I smell marshmallow and apple at one point swirled in the notes. Even though the description may sound more playful, I'm here to tell you this is also entirely work setting appropriate and get ready for questions such as: "what smells so good?" and "who smells like Christmas?". Another excellent selection for sleep as well and I have this fragrance on my list for the bath brew and lotion next winter. *Sugared Plums (Gathered Notes and Description: Delicious and seasonal confectionery concoction of traditional Sugared Plum recipe of Almond, ripe Plums, Apricots, Figs, powdered sugar, anise, fennel, caraway and cardamon) I swear everything I ordered from this release makes me so hungry and tempts me to lick and nibble the displayed contents. It's all so incredibly realistic smelling and Sugared Plums is another I could take a bite of right now. If you adore fruit scents or the smell of fruit compotes ready for the stove top or oven this one is for you as the apricot and spiced plum amps on me the most, yum! I also detect something akin to cherry but I think that is the almond note. Sugared Plums is definitely the most playful scent blend I ordered and that's fine with me. When it comes to skin versus hair for this fragrance, I prefer the complexity of notes my locks unleash and I will be getting another argan oil bottle in 2019. *S’mores & Hot Cocoa (Gathered Notes and Description: Classic marshmallow, buttery graham crackers and rich chocolate paired with steaming hot cocoa) Short and sweet: HOLY GRAIL status as this is the most realistic hot cocoa perfume I have found in the indie fragrance realm. It's magnificient with a warm rich depth of chocolate that lasts on my skin until the next afternoon and never turns chalky or waxy. There is also a heavenly fluffy marshmallow accord that swirls with the cocoa and trace of butter that all tricks me into thinking I have hot cocoa in the microwave or on the stove top I forgot about, nope 'tis I who smells so delicious and I can't recommend this gourmand oil enough to those with a sweet tooth and desire a little revisit to happier days of your youth. Iced Gingerbread (Gathered Notes and Description: Realistic Gingerbread blend with mild nostalgic Yuletide spice and white icing) A sample vial that appeared in my order, thank you MoonaLisa! In the vial: As it says on the tin, VANILLA ICING and warm and sweet GINGERBREAD Applied: The search is over, THIS is the gingerbread perfume of my dreams I have been searching for ever since I stepped foot into the indie perfume realm. We have here the ideal gingerbread scent sealed in a vial along with a whiff of iced animal crackers I fondly remember and even a trace of butter and old-fashioned vanilla extract that appears after 6 hours. Needless to say, I want a gallon of Iced Gingerbread to hoard away and will be purchasing a full bottle of perfume as well as any and all bath treats; it's warm, comforting, incredibly realistic AND it stays on my skin more than 10 minutes (I finally have a gingerbread scent confection I can wear on my skin versus in my hair). So that's 3 holy grail fragrances down and I can't wait to see what I unexpectedly fall in love with next from MoonaLisa (come on, lemon cake or creme cookie!). *above order purchased at full price Argan Oil Winter Hair Rescue in Snow Ice The more I explore Moona's seasonal catalogues the more I'm finding I want to test fragrances out first in my curls before I purchase the perfume bottles. My hair seems to unlock hidden notes in different scent potions and I couldn't wait to take Snow Ice for a whirl and I wasn't disappointed. This is warm sweet realistic homemade ice cream in a bag! It's amazing and I plan on repurchasing it in every form next winter if I can. I'll go more into the qualities of the fragrance a little bit later but I have to again recommend another stunning hair product with this argan formula, it adds incredible shine, smooths out the frizz and this is a lifetime repurchase for me like the detanglers. Spray-in Hair Detangler in Gilded Pear Gilded Pear is dulcet savory fruit, the right amount of warm spice and everything nice. I love how my hair just glows in the lamplight when I spray this formula into my locks and my hair has never been this soft and tangle-free (seriously where has this product been all my life?). This is a must try if you have fine hair. I now have a cabinet shelf filled with different amazing scents I rotate throughout the week and I want twice the many more. Spray-in Hair Detangler in Whole So this is the purchase (in conjunction with Orange Flower from LittleBits *review coming very soon) that launched me on Orange Blossom collecting crusade as I fell hard for that note at first sniff. Whole is a lovely uplifting fragrance that you just want to wrap yourself in and never be without. I'll admit I sort of zone out when I have Whole sprayed in my braid (it lasts forever in my curls too!) and I can be found with my nose pressed into my hair losing all track of time. If you love the scent of floral oranges, Whole is a must to have on your vanity or in your tub. I'm trying so hard to conserve my bottle of detangler until December but I think that is an impossible notion and it will be the next empty bottle. Gingerbread Man (Gathered Notes and Description: This is an all natural version of the traditional holiday scent! Made with all natural absolutes, co2's and essential oils of- Fractionated Coconut oil, Allspice, Ginger, Nutmeg, Clove, Cinnamon, Sweet Orange, Butter AB, Vanilla Ab, and a touch of Vetiver) Earlier I mentioned how Gingerbread Man in the detangler, 4in1 and bath brew all smelled liked spicy lemonade to me and interestingly enough my skin allows the cookie aspect of this oil to become more noticeable by each passing month. I can definitely smell the nutmeg and cinnamon along with vanilla and butter (it's more of a bowl of gingerbread dough vs. a baked impression). As the oil dries down more orange comes forward and again it doesn't take my mind immediately to winter or summer, no, this time it goes to autumn. I'm curious to pair this oil with perhaps Pumpkin Strumpet, The Bell Witch or the vial of broom flower another shop kindly sent me. Okay, let's skip summer and go straight to fall, please. Extra samples included with different orders, thank you so much Moona! Rosemary Lavender (Natural Rosemary infused perfumers alcohol spray with Wild Lavender essential oil) Exactly as it says on the tin and this is a lovely example of natural perfumery. The notes blend seemlessly together creating another ideal dream potion that I spray on everything including myself. It reminds me of the natural herb waters you find at the Herb and Flower Festivals in June. I also can't stop looking at the vintage artwork of the garden florals in septia ink. A gorgeous calming fragrance and an equally gorgeous bottle to display. Cranberry Spiced Shortbread (Gathered Notes and Desciption: Juicy ripe Cranberries ready to burst with a subtle touch of Christmas spices topping warm and buttery shortbread cookie) In the vial: Effervescent SPICED CRANBERRY and BUTTERY COOKIE Applied: Here is another vial I could easily drink as this smells like some inventive child dipped their homemade shortbread cookie in a glass of sparkling cranberry juice during a Christmas party (I'm not the only one that used to do that, right?) Suprisingly this doesn't smell soggy in the least and somehow mixes the tart sweetness of the fruit with the holiday spices and buttery cookie to create one lovely scent combination. I could see myself getting this fragrance in the bath brew or sugar scrub parfait and I must say Cranberry Spiced Shortbread is great in the work place setting; I like to think of it as a playful sparkly brooch type of scent. It adds just the right amount of fun holiday pop to your attire. Winter Solstice 2018 version (Gathered Notes and Description: Tune into quiet Winter mysteries with a blend of different sacred resins, such as Frankincense and myrrh from around the world, Nutmeg and Labdanum Absolute) In the vial: Citrusy FRANKINCENSE and MYRRH with a hint of SMOKE Applied: At first there is burst of citrus and resins but as it dries something creamy and wood-like (perhaps unlisted sandalwood?) catches my attention and Winter Solstice become a calming somber fragrance that I love to dab on for sleep. I'm kicking myself for not wearing this more to work last year as this oil stays close and has an almost mediatative and regal quality to it. I must remember to wear this perfume for the coming fall into winter. I also bet this would smell flipping amazing on a man. Note to self... Gingernutter (Gathered Notes and Description: Crumbly soft, warm Ginger Milk and Sugar cookies with Hazelnut Marshmallows) In the vial: GINGER, HAZELNUT and VANILLA Applied: I want to say I love this but the more I try Gingernutter it falls into the like category as there is something that sticks out that I can't place. I do enjoy the spiciness of this oil but wish it lasted longer on my skin and I could figure out what that odd note is that my chemistry has latched onto. It does smell warm and holiday-like but the more I sit here the more I don't think Gingernutter is for me. Can't win them all. Snow Ice (Gathered Notes and Description: Fond memories Moona has when a child at camp during the Nevada snows, making natural "ice cream" from ice cold snow, condensed milk, Sugar and Vanilla extract. This scent is reminiscent of that: sweet crystallized vanilla sugar and cream) In the vial: Homemade Ice cream! I'll take a gallon and bucket now, please. Applied: Hold on, I'm still slathering...Mmm! What can I say this is another holy grail perfume for me as this is most delectable vanilla I have encountered in the indie realm [claps]. Snow Ice is sublime, a true masterpiece as it's dreamy and gourmand but never childish or cloying and anyone could wear this as it isn't heavy. I want to call this "lace ice cream" because it's so pretty, finishes off any look and yet so delicous smelling. I know this is a winter scent but I could happily wear this oil all year round and I really want to experiment with different perfumes to see what kinds of "lace ice creams" I could make. As you probably already guessed I have Snow Ice on the list to get EVERYTHING in come winter. Hands down my favourite sample vial in this batch. *With many thanks to MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean for kindly sending me these different scent creations at a discount for sharing my honest thoughts. MoonaLisa: A Supernatural Clean Poesie Perfume Recently I fell hard for organic loose leaf tea and I can thank Poesie Perfume (and Vida Pour Tea) for this next collection in my pantry. Blends: Twice to Tea Osborne House Albert + Victoria London Smoke + Fog Twice to Tea *the tea that launched me on a tea loving journey into so many different flavours and a whole new collection to share. Who knew tea could taste this good!
Osborne House: lavender rose vanilla rooibos tea (Ingredients: organic rooibos, lavender. rose buds, natural vanilla flavor) This sophisticated brew starts out with an herbal sweetness that quickly develops on the tongue to a woody smokey vanilla with lavender. I don't get any floral nuances with Osborne House but I do love the smoky quality of this tea that takes it into the perfect wintertime treat. When bubbles are added this blend unexpectedly tastes like woody smoked marshmallows! Another keeper for my pantry. Albert + Victoria: black tea (*Ingredients: roasted chestnuts, cinnamon, vanilla and black tea) Now this is a fine delicious brew! I admit I was a tad concerned when I read the description after purchasing the bag (all I saw was chestnut, cinnamon plus the reference to Albert and Victoria and into the basket this blend went) as they mentioned this medley was robust but to me, this dark tinted tea tastes just like homemade cinnamon raisin nut bread (especially with a drop of added honey) and I'm in love. For cozy factor, Albert + Victoria gets a solid 10 and I would love this warm comforting scent combination in a perfume or bath product. I know it seems silly but I'm still new to tea and I never knew it could be savory or taste this good. Highly recommend. London Smoke + Fog: london fog + lapsang souchong (Ingredients: black tea, vanilla, bergamot, orange peel, blue cornflower petals, lapsang souchong) Compared to Albert + Victoria, London Smoke + Fog is what I would call robust as this blend hits the tongue with a familiar taste of my favourite Twice to Tea but there is more heaviness to this medley versus the others. It definitely calls for a dark winter night of reading but I'm not sure I would repurchase it after my bag is empty. I prefer its dainty and more sweeter sister tea blend of Twice to Tea and I don't think I'm ready to collect more lapsang souchong tea mixes just yet. Maybe I'll retry London Smoke + Fog after I train my palate some more or I may try my hand at making a bath tea, it does smell lovely in the bag and when it is piping hot with a dollop of honey. Perfume: Windsor by Poesie Perfume (Listed Notes: sweet balsam fir, benzoin resin, white amber, Christmas cookies, vanilla creme) *a surprise free sample I found in my order, thank you so much Poesie Perfume! In the vial this perfume promises sweet creme, balsam and amber but alas my chemistry devours this oil and all I can smell is a lotion-like buttery vanilla note and warm amber that fades surprisingly fast. I'm convinced balsam is a note I will never get to fully enjoy outside of inhaling a freshly cut Christmas tree or a homemade wreath and my dreams of smelling like a walking talking Christmas tree all aglow will never come true. Curse you, skin chemistry! All is lost on my skin but I do enjoy this oil in my candle warmer as it adds just the right amount of elegant seasonal atmosphere to my bedroom. I just wished it stayed on my skin and followed me out the door. *With many thanks to Poesie Perfume for kindly sending me these teas at a discount for sharing my honest thoughts. Poesie Perfume Winter 2018 Collection Ultima Thule The Fall of the House of Usher Ligeia The Raven Spirits of the Dead Ulalume One Note at a Time: Ultima Thule *The Circle exclusive fragrance for 2018 (Listed Notes: Burning black woods, warm resins, cashmere musk, chestnut, clove bud, black pepper, toasted vanilla) In the bottle: VANILLA, RESINS and PEPPER. Yes, Sir! I'm ready to slather. Applied: On opening, I get a black, grey and sepia colour variation with this oil which is pretty nifty and it matches the iconic 1848 Daguerreotype of Edgar Allan Poe. It makes me think of a piece of memento mori on the mantel with sad phonograph music playing while a plate of Christmas treats grows colder next to a snow-covered window. The chestnuts and a warm sandalwood accord amplify on me with a hidden salt-like note and the dark vanilla which also brings this intriguing blend into the gourmand realm. It definitely heralds the theme for a cold winter's eve thinking of being surrounded by ghosts of loved ones or lost opportunities. This is creative genius! The Fall of the House of Usher (Listed Notes: Pine and fir needle, frozen hemlock, amyris, sweet myrrh, shadowed stone, precious woods) In the vial: RESINS and Sixteen92's infamous STONE accord. This could very well be a sweet pine sister scent of The Castle on the Hill. Applied: We wanted gothic winter and here it is as The Fall of the House of Usher is shaded sentinel pine against a cold stone wall. The pine note is incredibly realistic and how I wish it would stay more than a few minutes on my skin before being overtaken by sweet powdery myrrh but that is how the cards fall with this fragrance. I still like this perfume as I enjoy the imagery it conjures which is an abandoned mausoleum with a lone pine tree growing beside it. I love the stories that each vial and bottle seems to hold that comes from Sixteen92. Ligeia (Listed Notes: Ash, gardenia, opium haze, aldehydes, white iris, honeycomb, ambergris, cold skin) In the vial: GARDENIA, OPIUM and POWDER...You already know I love this. Applied: It's no secret I fell hard for Ligeia and haven't shut up about it since November but let's just for the sake of formality go through my full thoughts. This perfume starts out with a cold buttery gardenia that sparkles with aldehydes (I keep getting visions of a darkened room bathed in eerie moonlight with a pristine gardenia in a snowglobe sitting on a shelf and once you flip the ornate globe the snowflakes turn to ash inside; still can't fathom what haunting melody this beautiful object would play though, perhaps a forbidden waltz?), there is a distinct metal note that collides with the aldehydes and ambergris which amp on me for an hour giving this scent potion a dangerous animalistic element then a creamy honey arrives that takes me to another realm of happiness. Hours later the slight buttery sweetness is still present and I can detect the ash and a little powder. It's absolutely gorgeous, a complete masterpiece and I'll be picking up a full bottle once my vial runs out, Ligeia will be joining Necromancy, Telepathy, Sarah and Aeromancy as my perfect floral atmospherics that capture the season and my imagination. With such tremendous recent luck with white florals I need to revisit a few more vials, I really think I'll be singing more praises of florals soon. The Raven (Listed Notes: Tea leaf, plum wine, silver mirror, library dust, dried tobacco, black feather) In the vial: DUST, METAL and seductive PLUM WINE. Applied: Mmm... that plum note is sublime and I'm so grateful it amplifies on me with the distinct metal note. As this oil dries more atmospheric elements are released as the the dust and tea leaves come more forward to mix with the plum. I also smell something akin to rosewood but I don't see it listed. This is another vial that tells a story and I love that it smells oily blackish-purple like the iridescent sheen on a raven. I'll be definitely wearing this creation in fall as I don all of my Poe themed accessories. Spirits of the Dead (Listed Notes: Lapsang souchong, guaiac wood, saffron, black birch, Italian bergamot, styrax, vanilla pod) In the vial: I want to say TOBACCO or OUD with a sweet VANILLA. Applied: Oh this fragrance is strangely captivating and one I can't put down. I think I just found the epitome of a struggle against light and darkness with notes. I love how Spirits of the Dead morphs with distinct flickers of light (from the bergamot and romantic vanilla) that battles against being swallowed completely by something eerie, deep and smokey. An ideal early winter selection and another excellent disturbing and poetic oil that is sure to unnerve and intrigue company. Ulalume (Listed Notes: Moonflower, toasted almond, tonka bean, sweet fennel, narcissus, mourning veils) In the vial: ALMOND, FENNEL and OPIUM. For those that missed out on Lucy Westenra I think you would love this. Applied: Confession time- I love sweet almond in baking (I could sniff an open bottle all day long) and Ulalume holds one eerily sweet almond note that immediately takes my mind away to what cyanide may have smelled like on someone's breath. Depending on company I could see myself wearing this with a sinister little smile as I pull at my pearl necklace and let it drop back, it's a commanding fragrance that I'm sure will get some attention and garner some side looks. I oddly like it and will be wearing this oil in the colder months and while attending different events for my favourite time of the year. Holiday 2018 Collection Inside A Snowflake (Like the One on Your Sleeve) I Made My Family Disappear... Such A Misfit You Serious, Clark? (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). **Inside A Snowflake (Like the One on Your Sleeve) (Listed Notes: Snow flurries, holiday spices, evergreen forests, mistletoe, fuzzy green musk) -Inspired by the film: How The Grinch Stole Christmas *Side note: The vial is GREEN! What a delightful added touch In the vial: A mystery FRUIT, subtle SPICE, PINE NEEDLES and BUBBLEGUM? Applied: "What is that note?" That is exactly I've been saying for the past several months when I tried wearing this fragrance and I think I finally figured out what I'm smelling, it's TEABERRY. This smells like a light version of teaberry gum when first applied then dries down to a waxy spice pine combination. I'm really not sure I like it to be honest, it's too "safe" and I can only think of seeing someone wearing an itchy looking holiday sweater at an office Christmas party. You know that person wearing it wants to go wild but is held back because of those attending. For a Grinch inspired scent I was hoping for mean or mischievous notes to hit my nose, this is more after the Grinch grew a heart and became a polite member of society...whompwhomp... wait why do I smell fuzzy pickle relish? Okay that is different. This oil may work better in my hair, I'll need to try that or this could work in the bathtub. I Made My Family Disappear... (Listed Notes: French toast, dark coffee, flannel pajamas, marshmallow, frost, shattered ornaments, I hope we didn’t forget anything...) -Inspired by the film: Home Alone In the vial: [makes embarrassing noises while almost sticking the wand up my nose because how amazing it smells] Mmm...Oh wow that is realistic FRENCH TOAST with COFFEE and a hint of PINE Applied: [looks down at arm] WHY DO YOU HATE ME?! Once again my chemistry has betrayed me after giving me hope this fragrance would be magic on me and after a brief amping it is completely gone after 10 minutes. Well for that short time it was incredible and it smelled like buttery french toast and fresh brewed coffee with a nifty realistic fluffy flannel note and marshmallow. If I stick my nose right to my skin I can smell a faint pine note and maybe marshmallow with a drop of coffee but it's barely there. I think I need to order that scent locket soon or mix this in my hair mist spray. This is basically the adult equivalent of getting coal in my stocking instead of a treat. I'm pretty sad right now. **Such A Misfit (Listed Notes: Frosted sugar cookies, marshmallow fluff, vanilla bean, fresh candy canes, creamy white cocoa, a twinkling red nose) -Inspired by the film: Rudolph The Red-Nosed Reindeer In the vial: PEPPERMINT and VANILLA with COCOA Applied: Ack, chalky chocolate! I'm just not having luck with this collection sadly as I amp chalky smelling chocolate and a waxy vanilla then it disappears in 5 minutes. Perhaps these vials need a longer rest and will be better next winter. Or maybe winter/Christmas scents are just not for me. You Serious, Clark? (Listed Notes: Lukewarm spiked cider, leftover pie filling, frosty window panes, fresh firewood, family arguments) -Inspired by the film: National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation In the vial: APPLE CIDER and PINE Applied: Saved the best for last as I get a frosty pane of glass on the opening of this oil (how does Claire do that?!) and wafts of realistic buttery flaky pie crust that lasts about 4 hours. 8 hours and I can still smell wisps of apple spice and soft pine. I really like You Serious, Clark? and could see myself purchasing the detangler or hair serum in this comforting fragrance as the pine is more dominant in my hair and on my scarf rather than on my skin. I would definitely recommend this oil to anyone nervous about strong apple scents, this one is lovely and low key. Sixteen92 Alkemia Perfumes Full Bottles: Yule Alchemy 2018 Pear Alchemy Samples: Gothique Forest Patchouli Kāmavaśya Misdeeds After Midnight NSFW Oudh Arboreal Promises by Candlelight Ambre Extrait Madam X Green Carnation Combined Thoughts: These vials and bottles have been peacefully aging and waiting for the day to be shared. Some are from limited collections, have been discontinued or are on sale now. One Note at a Time: Yule Alchemy 2018 (Listed Notes: Boozy fruitcake, crushed pine needles, biscotti, and spiced amber) *a special seasonal treat I found nestled among my one order, thank you Alkemia, you are the best! In the bottle: CHRISTMAS TABLE DESSERTS and strewn PINE NEEDLES Applied: The rich cake with biscotti notes are the first to get my full attention then a classic calming pine comes forward to captivate my senses and take me away to happier times. It's a gourmand with a trace of earthiness to treasure. As Yule Alchemy 2018 dries down the spiced amber is the dominant note that stays with me for hours and eventually turns to lovely powder with a hint of fruit-laced spice to keep things interesting. I need to wear this oil more often, this is exactly how you celebrate the season. Pear Alchemy (Listed Notes: Spiced Bartlett pears, white amber, green cardamon, and ?) *a surprise bottle with one order, thank you so much Alkemia! In the bottle: Golden PEARS drizzled with CARAMEL and AMBER. It's warm and completely enticing. I could sniff the bottle all day and night. Applied: I want to say this smells like bubbly pear champagne sprinkled with spice but I don't think that exists, it is a whole new kind of exquisite and fancy smelling but alas this oil only lasts so long on my skin (2 to 3 hours tops) which is very rare for me when it comes to Alkemia. I've had better luck brushing Pear Alchemy into my hair as it surrounds me with the most gorgeous halo of regal pear and spiced creamy amber that lasts until the next morning. Gothique (Listed Notes: Somalian frankincense, styrax benzoin, Arabian myrrh, cassia, spikenard, canella, Liquidambar orientalis, labdanum, Atlas cedar, and vetiver) In the vial: SWEET MYRRH, FRANKINCENSE and something akin to GINGER SMOKE, it reminds me of a combination of the opening of Darkness Shining in Brightness and Falling Stars on Winter Solstice. Applied: sigh...my kingdom for a dark woody smoky frankincense in perfume or candle melt form. This was the vial I was anticipating from the Yule release and sadly Gothique isn't THE ONE for me but it is still very close in some ways and exceedingly lovely all the same. I believe the myrrh is what is pulling as sparkly golden or even effervescent on my skin and I'm getting faint traces of smoke from a swinging metal thurible but it's not the scent of nights before and after Holy Supper I remember (I hope it is exactly that for someone else though). My search continues. In regards to this vial, I still plan to keep it as Gothique reminds me quite of bit of Darkness Shining in Brightness which is one of my favourite perfumes and since that particular creation is currently marked to be discontinued Gothique may stand in with its recognizable inspiration and calming resiny sweetness. Forest Patchouli (Listed Notes: Siberian pine, balsam fir, mistletoe, iron distilled patchouli and fire cured spices) In the vial: Soft FIR branches, ORANGE and EARTH. It smells like an expensive living rustic Christmas wreath. Applied: On opening a distinct orange note entwines with a freshly cut pine bough and I'm one happy lady walking around with an aura of citrus and camphorous forest. The spice eventually peeks out along with a familiar metal encrusted dirt accord I recognize from the general catalogue then oddly enough this dries down to what I can only call vintage Old Spice with a drop of citrus. Completely unexpected and I would dearly love to smell this fragrance on a man's collar...still one happy lady but now looking for a fella to pou...I mean dab this on, hehe. I'll be saving this for a special day along with: Salem, Lycanthrope, Warm Leatherette, Foxcroft, Stag Moon and Three Treasures. Kāmavaśya (Private Reserve) (Listed Notes: Leather infused dark amber, botanical pheromones, cumin, nutmeg, ambergris, tobacco, vanilla musk, grains of paradise, and civette (cruelty-free civet)). In the vial: *takes a moment* I do believe we have another fragrance to join the "someday collection". Ahem, take me away now! Applied: In 2017 Alkemia unveiled Darkness Shining in Brightness which for me conjured a story of a distinguished Edwardian tea that ended behind closed boudoir doors, now in 2018 I am taken outside space and time with a seductive leather and mysterious caramel concoction that makes me huff my arm and tempts me to go put on the pink and black garter I received in my Bordello Box from Strange Fire & Fumery. Whew! This is unlike anything in my collection and it sort of scares me how much I like it to be honest, haha! It's feral, dirty, primal and not meant for innocent play. I would never wear Kāmavaśya in the workplace setting but this certainly is a welcome confidence boost. Leave it to Alkemia to release something so untamed and adventurous during the holidays (I can't wait to see what Sharra has in store for 2019). Misdeeds After Midnight (Listed Notes: Coffee liqueur, white rum, creme de bergamot, Black Forest raspberries, salted caramel, Arabian rosewater, vetiver root, vanilla musk and golden amber) In the vial: COFFEE LIQUEUR and SALTED FRUIT, here's another fragrance I don't have anything similar to in my collection. Applied: This yule collection features quite a few curious pairings with caramel and Misdeeds After Midnight continues that theme with a luscious salted caramel note swirled under smooth coffee liqueur, rosewater and tart raspberries (I amp caramel so it's the most prominent note as the oil dries); it smells good enough to drink. It's absolutely dreamy but almost a little too much for me as a tiny dab is all I need of this oil. Misdeeds After Midnight is definitely a delicious and cosy scent potion that keeps my nose down to my arm (and dangerously close to Kāmavaśya) which sweeps me away to a sophisticated cocktail bar long after hours and in front of a lone violinist playing his tortured soul out to an empty room (are there violins at a cocktail bar? I've never been to one but that's what I would imagine there to be, so let's go with it). A definite favourite out of this release and a keeper. NSFW (Described as: "A libidinous yet delicate vintage style musk blend for all genders. Suggestively alluring with a flirtatious wink of naughty".) In the vial: I want to say fluffy SOAP BUBBLES but it's so much more than that. It smells fresh and clean but nothing like laundry. Applied: I never knew I could fall for a crisp "musk" that has intriguing nuances of creamy fresh powder and a hint of underlying spice but I have! Atleast, I think this is musk I'm smelling as I am still training my nose (it sort of smells warm). In any case, true to its description NSFW is also undoubtedly delicate, unobtrusive but somehow magnetic (very similar to Luminae and Enigma in ways but not sweet nor carries that nifty "flickering" candlelit butter effect and impression on my skin like in Luminae but as it dries down it does have a wisp of Enigma's cedar note) and I think I just turned to another chapter for my collection and fragrance preference (especially for the workplace). NSFW is quite impressive overall. Oudh Arboreal (Private Reserve) (Listed Notes: Piñon and Siberian pine needles, heartwood, black oudh, bois de rose, anthoxanthum, smoked orange peel, dark ambergris, Andalusian rock rose, agarwood, cardamon, tolu balsam, tonka and 10 year aged black patchouli.) In the vial: AGARWOOD and MINT. It's not for the meek. Applied: I know this perfume was a runaway smash on ETSY but this vial has not been kind to my head and of course, it lasts almost 2 days on my skin, so there's that. It has a distinct high-end vintage quality that I could see appealing to others but unfortunately, it's not for me although I really wish it would be. I honestly can't identify a single note which proves I'm not ready for this level of master perfumery and will never be welcome in other groups on the web or in certain shops. Perhaps it just needs a long rest and I will brave Oudh Arboreal again next winter. Promises by Candlelight (Listed Notes: Amaretto liqueur, Madagascar vanilla beans, yuzu, quince, Monoi Tiare and white amber) In the vial: A fancy ALMOND DESSERT with tropical FLORAL accents. Think the night island version of The Great British Bake Off. Applied: Mmm...Golden caramel again and it's paired with almond, amber, vanilla and dainty flowers this round. As it dries down the amber appears at the forefront of the other notes and something buttery as well. Unfortunately, Promises by Candlelight doesn't last past a few hours on me but I still love this vial. I also adore the name (I know silly but it's true) and found this is one fantastic oil to wear before going to bed. Sweet decadent pleasant dreams await. Ambre Extrait *100% Natural Perfume Oil (Listed Notes: North African Rock Rose, Cambodian Agarwood, Prussian Amber resin, Madagascar Vanilla, Nepalese Spikenard, Somalian Opopanax, Tunisian Liquidambar, Himalayan Cedar, and Honduran Styrax) In the vial: POLISHED CHURCH PEWS, my great uncle's WOOD SHOP, INTRICATE WOOD SCULPTURES at the autumn festival, unexplored ATTIC/CRAWL spaces and EUROPEAN CHRISTMAS ORNAMENTS. It's a beautiful ode to all the greatest warm comforting wood scents I have ever experienced. Applied: This oil is definitely a crown jewel find and I would love to own a bottle. On me, there is a sweetness to the wood accords and something akin to aged paper with citrus and butter that catches my full attention and hours later I smell a romantic vanilla with an earthy undertone. For some reason, I want to wear this perfume for Easter. Ambre Extrait would be fascinating to layer with perhaps Smoke & Mirrors or my single note of orange blossom I acquired from LittleBits. This is without a doubt a treasured vial and I will be saving it for special occasions and report back if I discover any nifty combinations. Madam X (Listed Notes: Bergamot, mandarin, dark violet, Italian iris, black orchid, Japanese incense, orris root, sueded musk, white sandalwood, Tahitian vanilla, and pale patchouli) In the vial: VIOLETS and TEA? That must be BERGAMOT I'm detecting. Lovely as its inspiration. Applied: Of course the violets hold sway over all (curse you, skin chemistry) and I can't really identify any other scent, there may be the mandarin and bergamot trying valiantly to come forward if I take my time to concentrate but it's a strong floral amping at the moment. Surprisingly Madam X is not giving me a headache or is an example of how sharp violets can be (shudders when thinks about Hydromancy), no this is soft, pretty and inviting. I also love that Madam X is vintage in a certain way and I'll be wearing this perfume to special historical events. This will go into my Gilded Age or Old New York part of my collection, I could see Consuelo Vanderbilt Balsan or my old friend Lily Bart wearing this perfume. Green Carnation (Listed Notes: Carnations, dianthus, absinthe, green patchouli, and bay rum) In the vial: ABSINTHE, RUM and something resembling HAY in summer? Maybe it is just me being homesick but this smells like a horse barn in the best possible way. Applied: The horse barn with sweet fresh hay quality of this oil lingers for a few minutes then Green Carnation morphs to velvety plush carnations and anise or fennel from the absinthe. The green fairy is strong in the Green Carnation and it unexpectedly satisfies my craving for that distinct note. An hour in and the rum is tangling with the patchouli and spicy dianthus, here is another for my collection as Green Carnation is a clear keeper and I'm going to leave a reminder for myself to pick this fragrance up for next St. Patrick's Day to wear. Ultimately, I can easily see why this perfume is so popular, it's a unique unisex blend with interesting florals aspects and a kiss of the green fairy. Alkemia Perfumes |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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