*review composed in January 2020
2019 belonged to Nui Cobalt Designs and one other shop in my book and my collection just continues to expand with every release as I discover a new note I never thought I would love and another blue beauty of a bottle to bring home to display on my vanity. Here were the blends that arrived and brought in the new year with only good things to come for 2020. Merry Christmas to all celebrating today! *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these oils. The following oils last between 5 to 12+ hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. Purchased on Black Friday: Love (Intimacy in a bottle. A blend to enhance your natural magnetism and power to forge passionate connections. The softest sugared rose dances with resplendent vanilla in flickering candlelight.) Somedays you just need to smell elegant and from a painting or stained glass window and that's exactly what I receive and feel like when I dab on Love. This is a gorgeous blend with a polished vintage rose, downy powder and realistic sweet singed creamy beeswax candle wax hiding in the background. It's soft and suggestive, speaking from a forgotten era of beauty and gentility. Starlight & Spider Silk (Swift and skillful, her instinct's artistry glimmers with deadly precision. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans.) I don't know how Forest did it but this is the scent of clear gossamer swaying in the breeze and morning dewdrops with elegant vanilla. On me, there is something nearly floral and creamy about Starlight & Spider Silk (don't you love all of these poetic and perfectly matched names?). I don't have anything to compare this oil to currently in my vast collection. Wow, this is stunning and I can't help but think of waltzing spirits and one song in particular (Once Upon a December) when I have Starlight & Spider Silk dabbed all over. I can expect 12 hours of sophisticated perfection with this perfume and couldn't have asked for more. Fairy Lights (A whimsical blend to invoke joy and the true spirit of the season. Their glow is the quintessence of Yuletide. Bright white copal softens into golden cathedral incense and wild honeycomb, then nestles into a deep dark vanilla and luxuriant amber.) For the colder days and months to soon arrive, I wanted to seek out something that reminded me of happier memories of the holiday season and Fairy Lights became THE scent of 2019 I was determined to have. Although well blended, it's not quite what I was searching for, however, I'm falling for this fragrance slowly for the soft elegance that radiants from this oil that indeed reminds me of the appearance of Victorian Fairy Light. It's smooth and comforting with a hidden mint note that I'm guessing is the copal (or possible unlisted Palo santo) melding with my chemistry and with patient aging the warm honey note is coming more forward after the 4-hour mark then lasting until the end of my 12-hour shift. Another blend I can't say I have anything in my collection to compare to and with that Fairy Lights is a keeper, but my search continues for a realistic cathedral incense, sweet honey and beeswax perfume to call my mine and smells like my childhood Christmas Eve. Warm Fuzzies (The scent of softness and tender affection. Ripened peaches, cotton flower, flax, leaves of lamb's ear, smooth sandalwood, skin-warmed wool, a touch of Ceylon cinnamon and a sprinkle of ginger. Wear this comforting blend to encourage gentle kisses, wistful smiles, and acts of loving kindness.) *sample vial appeared in my Black Friday order. When I first opened Warm Fuzzies it brought to mind Wicked Pumpkin just without the pumpkin and maple as the peach immediately attached to my skin and amplified and I'm not going to lie, I was concerned as peach can turn into an ode to a tomcat, on me. Thankfully that hasn't happened and Warm Fuzzies is a soft peach that stays a dewy peach and smells also of clean sheets and a fresh grating of ginger. It has been accompanying me to work as the scent stays close and brings to mind warm spring sunlight. Press Samples: The Star (The light of hope and the power of renewal. Winter citrus, chilled champagne, neroli, dogwood, angelica, frankincense, clover honey, porcelain musk, and snow-covered sandalwood. This sacred scent invokes Grace and fulfillment in all areas of life, from material prosperity to emotional wellness.) This is an aptly named blend as The Star is bright and golden with a glass of joyous bubbly champagne and sweetened citrus on opening that slowly changes over to warm honey and finishes out the night with a stunning powdery finale. It can be slightly more soapy on application than I usually prefer, but that dry down with floral kissed honey and vintage creamy powder is what makes The Star a festive keeper for me. I'm curious if the overly clean scent will be tempered in the coming year or if it just my wonky chemistry that is ultimately latching onto the champagne and strong citrus. Cozy (A potion for peace and contentment. The vanillic scent of very old books, winter spices drifting from the kitchen, glowing beeswax candles, a blanket around your shoulders, and a Douglas fir adorned with lights. Wear this scent when you crave stillness and silence. It has a talent for putting the outside world into decidedly softer focus.) As it says on the tin, the vanillic scent of dusty well-loved books, a dusting of spices and the warm glow of realistic beeswax candles. The fir note is very faint on me, but that's expected as my skin eats pine. As Cozy dries down an orange note appears that dances between gourmand and atmospheric when the familiar comforting wool yarn aroma from Favorite Sweater hits my nose. I'm going to be using Cozy in unscented argan oil for this winter season, I want those beautiful fir, beeswax and yarn notes to all really amp and take me away. Mauna Kea (The snow-capped domain of the sky father, Wakea and modern-day passage to the stars. This summit attracts astronomers from around the world, as its observatories are second to none. Glacial mountain air, bitter almond spiked with rosemary, white vanilla orchid, frozen coconut, and starlight. Wear this bracing blend to sharpen your senses and hone your powers of perception.) I came for the gorgeous description and stayed for the sweet delicate almond, bracing fresh coconut and familiar "starlight" impression from another favourite oil I now own a full bottle of. This oil is stunning and I can easily imagine the immense heavens above with winking stars and coolness from a mountain top carried with the wind. I know it sounds silly, but when I don Mauna Kea, I always feel like I'm replicating the scene from How the Grinch Stole Christmas when the Grinch realizes he is growing a heart and "is feeling", this is me with the coconut. Am I a coconut lover now, who will pay for and swoon with every tropical-themed release? It's hard to say and now that's all for today...uh, in any case, I LOVE Mauna Kea and will be saving up for a bottle to grace my vast vanilla collection. This is akin to Starlight & Spidersilk who took a little tropical holiday. Snowflakes & Spider Silk (Our beloved Starlight and Spidersilk takes a merry turn for the winter holidays. Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, grapefruit sorbet, fresh ginger root, and fluffy white meringue. This beguiling blend empowers you to ensnare the objects of your desire and attract every manner of earthly delight.) Now here's a blend for my moody little self as on application, Snowflakes & Spidersilk has a more of gourmand exterior leaning almost candyish with the sweetened grapefruit sorbet and vanilla (like a fancy skittle) and is backed by the familiar glowing and slightly haunting "starlight" from Starlight & Spidersilk. All very unexpected and it has me questioning if this combination may be "too happy" for myself to pull off. On the other side of the coin, there's no harm wearing all black and smelling like a fancy skittle, right? I need to think more about Snowflakes & Spidersilk for next year as one of my resolutions was to be a bit more selective of the bottles I bring home. I can't have them all (I keep telling myself). Olympe de Gouges (Born into French aristocracy in the 1700s, she was an unexpected champion of human rights. Olympe wrote bold treatises against slavery and sexism that influenced powerful minds in government. She is credited with the prescient statement, "A woman has the right to mount the scaffold. She must possess equally the right to mount the speaker's platform." She was beheaded in 1793. The fragrance inspired by her is a decidedly bourgeois composition of orange flower, rose, sandalwood, bergamot, and violet infused into ivory leather gloves.) Blame what I'm currently reading and my stellar experience with Nui Cobalt's The Netherfield Ballroom candle, (that carries a similar scent profile) but when I smelled this vial I knew I found something very special for my collection. This shop has this marvellous way with violet and leather notes that somehow play nice on my skin (what wonderous sorcery is that?!) and Olympe de Gouges is a lovely scent that harkens back to another time all together and I must move some things around to purchase a bottle next year. I get all the florals at different points after application, but the vintage rose is the note that rises to the top at the moment with soft leather staying in the background instead of screeching forward which can sometimes happen with my wonky chemistry (same with violets). I have been wearing this soft powdery floral wonder to the workplace setting and Olympe de Gouges will also be accompanying me to different historical events in 2020. Diamonds in the Snow (A glistening expanse of freshly fallen snow in the moonlight. Iced lavender, lemon, and juniper enshrouded in ivory satin, white clove, and crushed coriander with a base of vanilla sugar. Wear this elegant scent when you want to steal the spotlight and stand out from the crowd.) Well with a name of Diamonds in the Snow there was no doubt I had to try this and ooh, this is pretty. Nui Cobalt does herbals like no other and the stars of this blend are the realistic calming lavender and clove with coriander that adds just a touch of mystery and the unexpected to this oil. If you love creamy cool scents, Diamonds in the Snow is a must to try. These oils have been peacefully aging for a few weeks now and the "ivory satin" impression is out today to steal the show and I can't stop smelling my wrist and imagining classy ladies from various literature attending a gala event decked out all in glistening crystals and creamy white. I may need to expand my top 5 list to 7 by the end of this session of reviews as Diamonds in the Snow deserves a choice spot and has a welcoming place on my vanity waiting. Snow Cat ("...watching the cat's breath gently fog up the window in fleeting wisps as the sun rises grey-white through the cloud cover. her ice eyes, buttons of sky."- poetry by Jenn Zahrt The very essence of Hygge: lightly toasted marzipan, ivory amber, chilled coconut milk, and the soft fur of a purring kitten. Wear this comforting blend for instant soothing and solace.) By now it's no mystery I love powdery and creamy fresh perfumes, I crave them, I hoard them and ramble about them. So here's another to add to my growing lists of professional and comforting gems to save for as Snow Cat has taken my workplace by storm and I have received quite a few compliments which who are we kidding, always brightens one's day (or night). These notes alone should be loud and obtrusive on me (even spooky with the almond) yet somehow they only create a peaceful delicate sweetness that others around me gravitate towards. Er, I'm not doing so well being more selective with these blends as I want Snow Cat in my winter drawer. I can't have enough work safe perfumes that carry a graceful quality to them and Nui Cobalt dominates that desired fragrance description for me. Incense, Gold, and Myrhh (A sparkling spin on an ancient tradition. Cathedral resins and angelica are warmed by tangerine pomanders studded with cloves, Tupelo honey, regal amber, calendula petals, true Ceylon cinnamon, and saffron. Wear this sacred scent to attract health, wealth, and wisdom in the coming year.) I'm still on the hunt for the perfect wintery incense perfume with honey that sweeps me back to Christmas Midnight Mass and Holy Supper and this one is close (actually if the odd mint note in Fairy Lights was replaced with the incense in this, it would be sublime) however in the end somehow reminds me more of the Brittish side of my heritage versus Slavic/Russian. It's smokey and the pomander note with cinnamon is dominant on me bringing to mind all the puddings my grandmother would make and the decorations around the house. I adore anything with cinnamon and Incense, Gold, and Myrrh is something I can truly say I don't have which is a smoky incense infused cinnamon/pomander perfume. The search, however, continues for my Christmas Eve in a bottle but I still would love a vivid blue bottle of Incense, Gold, and Myrrh on my vanity. Snowball Fight (The scent of shared laughter and unbridled enthusiasm. Poached pears, rice pudding with nutmeg and allspice, a drizzle of caramel and a single fresh bay leaf. Wear this joyful scent to lift your mood and invoke a celebratory spirit.) To my nose, this is a delightful cousin scent of the much-beloved Little Brown Rabbit but without the opening clean fluffy laundry note, oh no, this is comforting nutmeg, warm spice, caramelized dipped pears and a hidden honey note I want to slather always and forever. Don't get me wrong I enjoy the fluffy clean element of Little Brown Rabbit, however, the dry down is what is my favourite from that perfume and Snowball Fight is exactly what I have been hoping to find. There is nothing so wintery and perfect as nutmeg, pears and honey in my book and this scent potion showcases these treasured notes beautifully. Ah, Snowball Fight is comfort and joy in a bottle and I will be dancing around with my very own soon. Sworn Enemy of Convention: Tribute to Hedy Lamarr (Lauded by Hollywood as "the most beautiful woman in the world," Hedy Lamarr's true genius was revealed in her invention of the multi-frequency torpedo guidance system. It wasn't implemented by the US military in WWII as she had intended, but it did lay the foundation for Code Division Multiple Access: the system on which modern cell phone communication is built. Her birthday, November 9th, is now known as Inventor's Day in her home country of Austria. The fragrance inspired by her is the scent of Hollywood's Golden Age: sparkling white grapefruit, golden sandalwood, deep amber resin, and fine fur accord. Wear this glamorous scent to reveal your hidden powers and secret strengths.) Oh, Hedy. It's not you, it's me. You smell so pretty in the vial and it figures my chemistry completely destroys such a beautifully researched oil. I'm still trying to figure out what went wrong with this one and I have a sneaking suspicion it's the combination of the sparkling grapefruit, wood and fine fur accord because Sixteen92's Redrum smells very similar on me in the way of instead of a classy event or a harken back to another era, I'm getting an amplifying sharp cloying chemical note which I can't learn to love no matter how hard I try. Apologies folks, my chemistry is just evil and delights in torturing me. I read Sworn Enemy of Convention was exquisite on others and I'm completely jealous (and I want to smell like a ghost from the RMS Titanic with Redrum:(). (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Hell Freezes Over (A daring and diabolical scent for getting into delicious trouble. Decadent devil's food cake, still warm from the oven, fluffy marshmallow frosting and the lightest dusting of crushed candy cane. Wear this voluptuous gourmand fragrance only if you're prepared to be on the Naughty list.) Mmm more of a gooey batter cake fragrance on me versus a true baked cake scent, but I like this (I mean who doesn't enjoy eating cake batter from the beater?). It's hard to find a perfume with candy canes listed and they are front and centre on my skin which is perhaps my chemistry trying in vain to apologize for the disaster it made of Hedy Lamarr and Redrum. I've not forgiven it...but the fluffy marshmallow frosting that is now coming forward is easing the pain of betrayal a little. Interesting the chocolate fades fast and the peppermint and marshmallow take over. I'm okay with that, haha. Longevity overall is shorter than the others in this batch, with Hell Freezes Over still detectable at 5 hours. I'm going to experiment with this oil in whipped soap and report back another day. Under the Mistletoe (A romantic melange of white winter rose, frozen vanilla, a mahogany mantle decked with holly, golden spiced rum, gilded magnolia, and flickering candlelight. Wear this potion to attract love and encourage kisses.) Mmm Hello, you boozy floral tease, would you like to come home to me? Oh, magnolia wow that note comes forward to say a lot when first applied. I guess I amp the buttery lemon quality of magnolia and dark properties of mahogany. I was hoping this would be a bright lighthearted sister scent of my beloved Exsanguinated (yes, a little dark-hearted individual can get the strange happy urge to deck the halls and sing out of key with the best of them once in a blue moon, I mean if there are roses, spice, "flickering candlelight" and something so prettily named as Under the Mistletoe to drench herself in of course). Okay, time to be firm. Even though exceptionally lovely (oh, the dreamy vanilla is coming through now and sweetness factor is kicking in), the roses are being overshadowed by the magnolia and I don't need a bottle right now. See that's firm, I can wait and hope this pretty little number comes back next Winter. Baby steps. Nui Cobalt Designs Comments are closed.
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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