*review composed in February 2020
Admittedly the winter corner of my vast perfume collection was a little lacking so when I saw the theme for Stereoplasm's Winter 2020 collection, I had to indulge. These vials and bottles have only rested over a week, but I said it once and I'll say it again: Stereoplasm somehow outdoes themselves with every release. The spread I'm about to ramble about is filled with rich florals, hyperrealistic smelling velvets, brocades and fancy dressings, intriguing quasi-gourmands and of course classic bottled romanticism that all harkens back to a complex era of innovation and change. All I can say is, brava Stereoplasm! *All of the following were purchased on Black Friday (with the exception of Bleak House and Chimney Sweep which were free samples in my order) and are becoming stronger with their longevity and sillage from when they first arrived. I can expect around 6 to 10+ hours on my dry winter skin and even longer on my neck and hair. Crinoline (Linen extrait de Parfum, ash lye, blue lace macarons, white tea, hazelnut truffles, peppermint and almond petit fours.) On me, I get realistic sweet almond extract mixed with hazelnut and peppermint for the first hour on my skin then Crinoline slowly morphs to warm steeped tea and a swirl of peppermint which all completely dries down to a hidden sophisticated jasmine "glass clinking" vintage perfume scent that is a mystery unto itself. Absolutely magnificent and for longevity it went on for nearly 10 hours on my skin and even longer in my hair. Spectres in Dresses (Faded ivory lace, tortoiseshell aigrette, powdered-skin musk, dried jasmine petals, white amber and silk chemise.) This blend starts out similar to The Green Ribbon with an unlisted lilac note then Spectres in Dresses amps the promised jasmine and turns clean and a little powdery before completely drying down to all lovely vintage white amber and floral which lasts until the next morning. It's unapologetically feminine and tells a beguiling scent story on me. A true keeper for my vanity table, events and the workplace setting. Victoria (Devon cream, blueberry Langues de Chat, brocade, English ivy, guillotine blades, rust and granite.) In the bottle we are tempted by the marvellous blueberry cream and a curious hint of saltiness and when applied that blueberry sets out an early spring scene which is unexpected as each following note blooms and opens. The stone and distinct metal scent are wet smelling like after a cold rainstorm and the longer this oil dries the more it brings to mind an oddly timed garden party under a tent with brocade chairs set out to lounge upon. Everything about this party seems "off" and even a bit sinister, but you dare not leave. It's something to experience and I can't say I have anything like Victoria in my collection. Who knew blueberry, rust, cold stone with hyperrealistic brocade material would create such a peculiar regal fragrance. Jam Tart (Spanish Seville & ginger marmalade, short crust pastry, carmine, crepe paper, drops of belladonna and rose petal rouge.) I couldn't but giggle when I saw the name for this creation and the clever infusion of notes but alas, Jam Tart and I aren't meant to be. On me, I get sweet bubblegum and laundry bubbles and it doesn't morph like all the others I've tried. It's pretty there is no doubt of that, however, I was desiring something a bit "peppery" and naughty. Instead, it's very playful and sweet on me and I guess I amp ginger versus the other notes. I know it's still early so I will wait to see how this blend changes after some patience. Chimney Sweep (Conifer trees, resinous pinecone, crumbling soot, aged brick, Russian leather, cologne musk and gin sweetened with black licorice.) Step in time! Kick your knees up and take me away, you seductive mixture of leather, resin and licorice! Whew, Chimney Sweep is something else. There is an element of refinement to this that lends to the story of a handsome character with a double life which is unexpected and certainly appreciated. Licorice is my weakness in any blend and here it is showcased, but I wouldn't call Chimney Sweep a gourmand, oh no, the soft leather, pine and slight dirtiness of the soot and crumbled brick elevates this oil from a linear foody scent to one sophisticated swoon-worthy fragrance in the end. I need more pairings of licorice and leather in my collection; brilliant! Librarian (Vintage perfume, rosewater, aged paper, velvet upholstery, cherrywood, cognac, orange butter and mulling spices.) Here's another oil full of surprises because the first notes that hit my nose on opening are orange starburst candy and leather, wild right? Thankfully that all changes over to this fabulous velvet upholstery aroma that has absolutely floored me throughout this release and it's paired with aged paper, cognac, warm spice and a splash of rosewater and orange. These accords balance one another and Librarian ends the night as soft and inviting like your favourite armchair in the library by a sunlight stained glass window or lamp. Bleak House (Dusty carpet, labdanum, dark chocolate, leather shoes, pits of plum, hourglass sand and obsidian musk.) Oh, Heathcliff is that you?! This is the scent of an elegant figure of secrecy with a brooding dark side you can't help but want to get to know more about. You know you should stay away for your mother warned you of confident figures with sweet words and promises, but it's impossible to resist his charms and you can stare into the fires together late at night and listen to the howling winds and rain. Leather again here is the unexpected refined captivator and it is married to dry cocoa with plum (which is always a charming combination in my book), a little saltiness from the hourglass sand, and a hyperrealistic scent of carpet that immediately brings to mind fine antique rugs. Now, this is an entrancing atmospheric. Can I hand this out to available men on street corners? Both Bleak House and Chimney Sweep (*leans more unisex) are going right next to Deconstructing Eden's Truth Universally Acknowledged, Sixteen92's Lycanthrope and Salem and Strange Fire & Fumery's Fougère du Étrange for all different reasons, hehe. Mourning Glory (Thick black velvet curtains, bruised palmarosa leaves, Shanghai spice, wilted white carnations and bible leather.) For a brief moment on application, I get a whiff of sweet bubblegum on my skin then Mourning Glory changes entirely to aged leather, realistic carnation and soft warm spice. The promised "thick black velvet curtain" material reveals itself soon afterwards and I'm happy to jot down Stereoplasm's fantastic leather book accord (complete with the distinct aroma of antique yellowed pages) stays wonderfully balanced the whole time between the spice and florals, instead of screeching forward or turning acrid and burning to my nose which can happen so often on my skin from other leather blends. Overall, Mourning Glory is a little Gothic gem I think will work best as a bedtime fragrance for myself. For others, this is a fragrance to take out and show off, but alas I have nowhere to share; so I will pair this with treasured Gothic Literature and let Mourning Glory take me away to an awaiting dark melodrama. Stereoplasm Comments are closed.
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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