*reviews composed in May and June 2020 I'm in a bit of silly (and hungry) mood when I'm in the presence of these oils (and names!) so just indulge me. *hums then busts out in song* I found someone to take away the heartache, to take away the loneliness (about missing out on banana and cucumber perfumes)! Any Cher fans here or more importantly any excited Nui Cobalt Designs fans present because I have some ramblings to share.
*Thank you so much, Forest and Josh, for allowing me to sample these collections! One Note At A Time: Power Down (A relaxing potion of labdanum and silken white sandalwood adorned with delicate lavender buds and a wisp of clary sage. Anoint your pulse points to alleviate stress, restore your peace of mind, and help you unwind.) On first application Power Down reminds me of another delightful relaxing creation by Nui Cobalt called Tryptophan with a caramel-like butteriness present, but that slight impression disappears as few moments in, an unexpected fizzy lavender aroma appears and pulls my nose down to my wrist to stay. I'm still learning to identify resins so I apologize if the "fizzy" description sounds odd, it smells almost lemony without a trace of bitterness or a pucker-quality if you will, mixed with freshly harvested lavender buds. The listed sage arrives after the long dry down and completes the picture of witchy relaxation. Charisma Bonus (A seriously sexy fragrance to ensnare the objects of your desire. Spiced black patchouli languishing in vanilla honey with scattered ylang petals and catnip leaves. Wear this potion to make an excellent first impression, to capture the attention of influential people, or to inspire passion during amorous encounters.) You would think by now I would be able to identify ylang or could completely fully break down every note composition with one wave of the wrist, not so as these oils continue to retain and hide their secrets and I'm perfectly content with still being in awe with these types of blends. So with saying that, Charisma Bonus smells like spiced vanilla and dark honey that goes into the seductive mysterious realm versus landing in a gourmand area and this is what secretly I was hoping Sultry would have smelled like on me. My old friend patchouli anchors this medley and keeps the longevity of Charisma Bonus going for a full 15 hours on my skin and I know sandalwood isn't listed, but something is reminding me of fine wood in Charisma Bonus and a unique vintage quality is noticeable as well; they don't make fragrances like this anymore. For wearability, I won't waste this spicy little number on those at work, this is meant to entice and then conquer. Bollocks 2020 (An indulgent scent to help you keep a sense of humor when dealing with liars. Banoffee Pie: golden toffee conjured from sweetened condensed milk, sauteed spiced bananas, and a crumbly crust of butter biscuits.) What it says on the tin and this is an indulgence that has certainly surprised me as a first for myself, I now have a banana perfume to recommend! Nothing is nauseating or obnoxiously candy-like in Bollocks and on me, I get a soft wash of pure diced banana on top of vanilla toffee pudding and decadent buttery crushed graham crackers. Everything is incredibly realistic smelling and I'm thrilled that as lovely as the banana is it backs away and then fades letting the spiced buttery graham cracker come forward. The more I sniff the more I love this fragrance and I'm so happy I tried something out of my comfort zone. Odin's Eye (A powerful blend for wisdom and strategy. Iced blueberry, cedarwood, birch, crushed peppercorn, cardamom, frozen musk and white amber. Anoint pulse points and Third Eye to ignite the fire of the mind and access cosmic knowledge.) In the vial, intoxicating blueberries hit my nose and I almost spill my entire sample in my excitement to slather this blend (I'm weak for a good berry note and Nui Cobalt's has some of the best fruit accords). Once slowly applied the realistic blueberry rises along with masculine cedar with a hint of spice and I'm swept away to visions of enjoying cold freshly picked blueberries under towering ancient trees with a Viking warrior. Oh, Odin's Eye is a wink and nod to naughty imaginings! I think I found a new scent potion to add to the sleep and relaxation drawer of my collection. Blarney (A bracing scent to steel your nerves and keep you calm in the face of mendacity. Irish Breakfast Tea: the warm, tannic comfort of proper Cuppa sweetened just enough with a touch of honey and smoothed with cream.) I'm still a tea novice so I can't comment on how true Blarney smells of Irish Breakfast Tea, but I do get the familiar scent of black tea and a clean citrus undernote. There is a unique historical element to Blarney that turns my head when I'm going about my day and I know exactly where to feature this blend when the times comes. As this oil is aging more of the honey and cream appears after a few hours overall making this a lovely soothing scent, perfect for a rainy day like today. Sophistry (A refreshingly tart aroma to wake you up and get you going. Chilled sparkling lemonade infused with elderflower blossoms, thinly sliced cucumber, and a pinch of grated ginger root. Wear to guard against fatigue and burnout.) It has taken me weeks to figure out what this blend smells like on me and I finally have it- rained over cucumber vines in the garden! It's uncanny how true Sophistry smells of my memories of being asked to bring in an armful of cucumbers from our home garden, I can even smell the realistic dark skin of the vegetable. I didn't think it was possible to capture that distinct peppery green aroma, but there it is and not one recall of soap to note, this is an unexpected atmospheric. A few hours after dabbing on Sophistry, the tart-sweet lemonade appears along with a delicate floral and I'm falling for this perfume. This smells like summer country gardening to me and I'll be reaching for it in the hotter months. I need to stop fearing cucumber (and banana) and need to start collecting more of those blends now from Nui Cobalt Designs. Flim Flam (A beautifully balanced concoction to ease anxiety and calm the mind. Lush Phillipine mango with steamed sticky rice and a decadent drizzle of coconut syrup. Wear to settle down, center yourself, and see with clarity.) How intriguing! This really does smell like steamed rice, fruit and coconut. If I were to ever go to a beach I would wear Flim Flam with its playful tropical elements. I don't have anything that smells like this in my collection, what a find. I was admittedly a tad concerned that the mango was behaving like peach does on my skin at first but thankfully it settled right down and melded very prettily with the starchy wet rice and smooth coconut adding just a little punch of fruit. I can see why Flim Flam is becoming a run away smash of the April Fool's 2020 collection. Horsefeathers 2020 (A sumptuous scent to help you keep your cool when people try to pull the wool over your eyes. A traditional Arctic Roll: vanilla bean ice cream wrapped in a blanket of yellow sponge cake and a layer of vibrant red raspberry jam.) *I am lucky enough to have also the 2019 version and I cannot tell the difference. Can I just say that this shop executes gourmands beautifully and Horsefeathers is another where I could lick my arm. In the vial, this one is a bit syrupy smelling versus spreadable jam but once Horsefeathers has a few moments to settle on my skin this oil takes on a buttery cake quality with freshly crushed raspberries spread on top and it quickly shoots to one of the top raspberry cake perfumes I have tried. I tend to amplify the buttery cake with decadent raspberry jam but hours later a clear vanilla ice cream aroma wafts up from my wrists and makes me dance in my chair. A great introductory perfume to this magical house of fragrance and I plan to gift a coworker (who has been fortunate enough to travel to the UK and dine on some of these desserts from the April Fool's Collection) with one of these vials as she loves raspberry scents and all things bakery themed. Fingers crossed I finally will have someone to go indie shopping with and can get excited with (even mark our calendars) over new perfume releases. Spreading the Indie Love one stunner at a time! Yemaya (Mother Ocean, Protectress of Children and Guardian of the Home. We honor you with ocean air and sea foam sweetened with coconut, pound cake, and fresh watermelon.) Another fruit laced blend that is as it says on the tin. I get every listed note with Yemaya and the watermelon is freshly sliced hunks dripping juice (no jolly rancher candy here which I was worried about). I went for a walk wearing this perfume and I immediately snapped my head and nose to attention when a surprise salty whipped cream note appeared after 30 minutes. I have never been to or seen an actual ocean or beach but I could easily imagine a romantic victorian-esque painting of gaily decorated attendees having a brunch of sliced watermelon, pound cake with shaved coconut and one couple sneaking off to lick whipped cream off each other's hands as they stare at the rolling waves. A full 2 hours later, Yemaya curiously reminds me of a salty Robin's Egg (I think it's the whipped cream and vanilla). Just lovely. Achievement Unlocked (A bold blend of Mahogany and Merlot with tart elderberry and a single long-stemmed rose. Wear this sumptuous scent to amplify your confidence and hone your skills. Anoint the tools of your trade to move you swiftly toward success.) In the vial and on opening Achievement Unlocked smells similar to my beloved Exsanguinated, however, the mahogany amplifies more in this oil making this oil more of a brother scent of Under the Mistletoe if I search my notes. I do get a beautiful bloom of realistic rose (complete with promised green stem) about 2 hours after application and the elderberry adds a boozy mix to this oil that I enjoy. I'm still overall undecided on Achievement Unlocked to be completely honest. It's a keeper, I'm just not sure where to place it in the box for wear. Poppycock (A bright fragrance to banish confusion and illuminate the whole truth. Lemon Meringue Pie: frothy citrus sweetness in a toasted almond crust, with white vanilla peaks gently browned under a blowtorch). Poppycock is a sugary lemon scent confection that shifts to varying degrees of desserts on my wrists and crooks of my arms. It's not waxy or sharp and I get either vanilla cake with decorative swirls of citrus or textbook perfect whipped lemon meringue with a crunchy almond shell. The longevity is also impressive as this scent fades in about 4 to 5 hours on my skin making this the longest-lasting lemon dessert perfume I have found yet for myself (usually lemon dessert oils are gone on me before I leave the house). There is also a distinct heavenly smoke note with toasted almonds that is last to leave me for the night. Hoodwink (A soothing scent for rest and replenishment. A tall glass of Thai iced tea sweetened with Tupelo honey and swirled with vanilla rice milk. Wear for relaxation and to get a good night’s sleep.) Oh my, Hoodwink is going to be another smash hit, I know it. On me, I get bright floral/pollen honey with distinct brewed black tea and vanilla (something reminding me of an expensive latte in the mix as well) all in the background. It also stays close which is ideal for work as I can sniff to my heart's content and be taken away with this soothing medley. As the hours tick by, this perfume turns more creamy and dreamy completing this summertime escape fragrance. I adore this and Forest is the Queen of Tea Scents in my book! Arctic Fox (A sexy little number to inspire snuggles on the coldest nights. Soft amber nestled in sumptuous cashmere, steamed rice milk, winter white musk, and snow-covered fir trees.) Another vial I'm not entirely sure about as when applied I receive, soft white soap and a hint of pine. I was hoping for warm milk and amber with pine needles, to be honest. As Arctic Fox sits on the skin, more of a creamy powderiness reveals itself and I may just hang onto this vial until next winter and try again. There is something about this oil I love (perhaps the cool creaminess and amber?) Bibliophilia (The love of Books.The vanillic scent of aging paper, the tang of fresh ink, venerable bookshelves of oak and mahogany, a sweet trace of pipe tobacco, an undercurrent of faded leather. Wear this subtle potion to invoke spirits of arcane knowledge and empower your perceptions.) I mean this all in the best way, this smells like what I could only imagine the desk and library of Agatha Christie or Jessica Fletcher to smell like. I get the metallic tang of real typewriter ink, the unmistakable vanillic aroma of a stack of aged papers and realistic worn leather from a well-thumbed tome. There is also a vintage perfume-esque undernote that makes me think of the contents of an old black leather handbag laying on a side chair. I want to go reread a classic murder mystery now! Another impressive and oddly soothing blend from this collection. Loot (This time-honored formula attracts wealth from hidden and unexpected sources. It's an excellent assistant in acquiring assets, both monetary and otherwise. Use to greatly increase the flow of wealth into your life, especially in financially dire situations. It has a particular penchant for landing those dream jobs that seem out of reach. Loot is handcrafted and charged as the Aries moon trines Jupiter in Sagittarius. This celestial connection opens doors that didn't exist and lights the path to affluence. Bayberry bark and dragon's blood with Ceylon cinnamon and two luxuriant vanillas.* Do not apply to skin if you are sensitive to cinnamon.) I fully admit I went a bit wild over Loot when it arrived as it was a unique heavenly cinnamon and rich bayberry bark bomb I wanted to pour over my head but alas gentle aging has tamed this beast and it's sadly a bit forgettable now. That's not the point though and I'm going to keep this oil home and sprinkle it in my unscented whipped soap at different points of the year. The history and preparation of this blend are fascinating to read about. Liquid Luck (Made with wild-harvested four-leaf clovers, this potion confers great good fortune upon its wearer. A gorgeously green bouquet of night air and dewy grass, charmed galbanum and benzoin, Irish moss, carrot seed, living shamrock and freshly turned earth.) In the vial and on my skin I get sunshine warmed clover and wet morning moss. It calls back to some play sessions out in the garden as a child just with my back being cushioned by bouncy green growth and staring at scuttling clouds and rainbow shifting coloured bubbles dancing on the winds. Liquid Luck is a comforting hug of nature and innocent times you desperately wish you could revisit. As this oil sits on the skin it sweetens then on me the carrot seed comes out to play before fading at the 3 hour mark. I'm hoping to find I will have better luck with this blend in my hair and I can smell like those clover, queen anne's lace and daisy chain coronets I remember knotting together after I recovered a special key from my grandfather's garage and escaped to my own secret garden (that was only an old rusty spider-webbed covered door on the side of the shed no one ever used). Anyone else still refer to young tree branches as "wick"? Wow, I haven't thought about those garden ventures in decades, Liquid Luck truly is something special and conjures some unexpected smiles. Humbuggery (An uplifting scent to keep you impervious to deception and shielded from malice. Pineapple Upside Down Cake: a delicious juxtaposition of tang and sweetness, caramelized pineapple, coconut cream, toasted hazelnut crust and baked brown sugar.) I wasn't expecting to be hit with so much personal nostalgia with these new collections, but I'm very thankful for being reminded of happier times and those that have passed. My pap loved pineapple upside down cake and Humbuggery is a spot-on representation of that distinct dessert fragrance. It's sticky yellow cake draped in golden pineapple slices, shaved coconut that later becomes custardy with the soggy parts of the bottom of the cake and a tropical sweetness hanging in the air I fondly remember as my pappy sat at the head of the wooden table with that mischievous side grin (we both share in pictures). A gentle giant in my mind and how I wish this scent would linger a little longer on my skin. More of the coconut amplifies by 4 hours and then the final note is lovely crumbs of realistic yellow cake. A nice send off. I wish I loved pineapple, but that scent for me is more about the sentimental properties it holds versus pure enjoyment. Shenanigans (A richly sensual blend for grounding and stabilizing. German Schichttorte: a sumptuous confection of layered yellow cake touched with lemon zest and rum, glazed with apricot and finished with a cloak of dark chocolate. Wear when you need to stay present and focused on the here-and-now.) Oh, the children have been put to bed and someone has been baking some wicked vanilla rum cake with a dark shiny glaze of chocolate and dotted with apricot pieces. This one is BOOZE, CAKE and APRICOT on me, whew this one is heavy on the rum. I guess I learned something new with Shenanigans as I amplify alcohol notes and ah, the name just hit me because whoever would indulge in this decadent cake would be surely up to some shenanigans they may not recall the next morning or afternoon. Ha. Now that's clever storytelling with the notes and name. As fun and a bit wicked the opening is the final dry down is marvellous, smelling of thick yellow cake with apricots on me and I love this final shift of the notes before they fade completely at the 6-hour mark. Roguery (A tres chic scent to remind you of your effortless intrinsic fabulousness. Kouign Amann: a light and elegant puff pastry that takes the simplicity of buttered sugar rolls to the height of sophistication. Wear for a boost of confidence, comfort, and radiant self-esteem.) Albeit a wonderous realistic bread aroma, Roguery isn't the baked fragrance I have been searching years for. Roguery smells more of hot buttered golden topped rolls fresh from the oven and for me, I may have a bit of fun and layer this with some pumpkin desserts and see if anyone notices. I also get a hit of possible anise or almond (something reminding me of a subtle bite of liquorice). I'm going to keep this savoury buttered oil home and slather it on for sleep. Hindsight (An energizing blend to strengthen the memory. Green tea, galangal, rosemary, sandalwood, and nutmeg. Wear to invigorate the intellect and banish brain fog. It is particularly helpful when the mind is scattered by fatigue.) Just as I found in Higher Mind 2019, this an oil to grab when I want to put my thinking-cap on and get work done. This is a citrus spice and distinct scent of rosemary to Hindsight that grabs my immediate attention and I think I have indeed found a sister scent to Higher Mind 2019. The Green Tea adds a tannic zip to the base notes of sandalwood and nutmeg; never resembling soap. Everything is so well blended and I can't wait to stick my nose into a vial of Lightning Bug which also has green tea listed. Bamboozle (A sweet scent for hope and optimism. Baklava: diaphanous layers of flakey, golden pastry, toasted pistachio, roasted chestnut, crushed almond, and a generous drizzle of spring harvest honey. Wear to banish discouragement and brighten dispositions.) I know in the official video regarding the April Fool's 2020 collection, Forest mentioned she doesn't exactly like doing gourmands, which I can respect but can I say, that is a crying shame because she is so flipping brilliant at that category of fragrances and Bamboozle is another triumph! This oil begins with the distinct aroma of wet nut roll dough then the pistachio, chestnut and almond make up a delicious salty trio of pleasure and I want to lick my wrist. The honey appears a short while later and it does smell flakey and golden. Needless to say, Bamboozle is a winner and one delectable perfume to recommend. Balderdash (An ebullient scent to lift your mood when the bastards try to get you down. Cherries Jubilee: jewel-bright Montmorency cherries poached in brandy and drizzled while still warm over vanilla ice cream.) The true aroma of Cherry is a hard thing to bottle and release in perfume and here in Balderdash, Forest has soothed and conquered the mythical creature as there is not one resemblance of cherry cough syrup in this oil *claps*. Whew, there is some hooch mingled with the realistic cherries though and I think this imaginary baker was taking a strong nip while creating a sweet fruit masterpiece, haha. I can forgive that, it adds a punch and matureness to this perfume, I mean who honestly hasn't taken a nip while they were baking with liquor (one thumbful for the bowl and 3 for the baker, haha). My chemistry must love alcohol notes. The promised vanilla ice cream (along with unlisted coconut?) becomes noticeable on me about an hour later and the longer Balderash is gently aging, the more I love this scent potion and can easily see why it is so popular. Another fruit-scented creation to recommend! Foresight (A mystical blend for prognostication and planning. Angelica, precious saffron, orris root, sage leaves, heliotrope, eyebright, and a subtle touch of star anise. Wear this blend when plotting the course toward big dreams and long-term goals. It has a knack for navigating around potential obstacles and delays.) If there was a note I would run away with and marry, it would be star anise (forgive me, pumpkin!). There is some mysterious seductive element to that spice I want to hoard now and forever and on me, anise is the star of the show in Foresight. I love these types of morphing blends, I say that because Foresight starts off smelling cold, green and even like clear stream water with a hint of sassafras then the naughty star anise materializes out of nowhere, hood sweeping back revealing its true side to me and I know this sounds odd, but Foresight is what I could only imagine a rippled dream to smell like (complete with a trace of mystical incense on the edge). Another exciting and surprise favourite. Mmm, everyone can leave me with this one. I'm just missing a huge pile of satin pillows to flop back against and lose myself in as I huff my wrists and hair. _____________________________________________________________________ The first perfume I opened from Nui Cobalt Designs was Little Brown Rabbit and that sent that single vial sent me of a whirlwind year of collecting and researching all about this magical house of fragrance and here we are a year later with more to add to my little fragrance menagerie. *the following were purchased Ozark Hellbender (A dark and cool blend to honor your uniqueness. Watercress and wild-foraged blueberries slither through damp moss, budding birch trees, raw pecans, and coriander. Wear this fresh, nocturnal scent to invoke calm and clarity.) This one is intriguing as promised! I get sugared blueberries, watery greens and a drydown of a mixup of fruit, floral and coriander. To be honest, Ozark Hellbender reminded me a great deal of Bad Moon Rising the first couple of weeks with something in this blend reading as "violets" to me with a waxy floral (almost powdery) under the blueberries and herbs- I think it's the birch which I learning I tend to amplify. That all changed as this perfume has morphed to luscious sweet realistic blueberries and aquatic greenery and a dry "dirty" coriander under it all creating a fascinating docile watery scent overall. I was fortunate enough to actually hold a Hellbender in highschool and like those nifty creatures (they have the most adorable toes), this fragrance inspired by them is unexpected in how you think it would act. Weird is beautiful! Spring Peeper (A dynamic blend to wake you up gently and sustain your energy. Warm ginger with saffron, cardamom, coriander, and nutmeg sprinkled over unripe fig and yellow mandarin with a base of mossy mahogany. Wear to stay balanced, focused, and adaptable.) The melodic rhythmic chirping of Spring Peepers down in the hollow is the official sign of spring for me and here we have a fragrance that encompasses the essence of meditative night musings and motivational spirit of a persistent little creature. This is warm and inviting with the spices and the woody base is a perfect touch. The fig and bright yellow mandarin are noticeable in the vial and on application however meld into the background and I tend to amplify the warm woody spices. I love to use Spring Peeper for pure relaxation and when I'm listening to this perfume's inspiration long into the night. Lightning Bug (A scent that is vibrant, luminous, and alive. Budding angelica, liatrix, and blue salvia gilded with key lime and lemon verbena over green amber, green tea, and cucumber. Wear when you need to refresh and revitalize.) Lightning Bug is a quasi-atmospheric that on me smells first of realistic wet green grass and fresh (non-soapy) cucumber with peeks of "light" and "glows" from the citrus, the dry down is warm amber with a vintage twist. This is an elegant representation of summer-night nostalgia and this country girl is very pleased. Silver Fox (An elegant blend for charm, poise and decorum. White tea with honey and rice milk, almond macaron, soft grey cashmere and cool woodland musk. Wear when you must put your best foot forward and make a positive impression.) This perfume exudes a fancy vintage vibe and I'm absolutely smitten. When first applied Silver Fox smells sweet and gentle but still manages to give a good throw as my mother noticed, then 30 minutes the tea announces itself with a tannic nip along with a drop of lemon and a full 2 hours it morphs to soft creamy refinement that smells from another era. It's stunning overall, lasts through a 12-hour shift and reminds me a great deal of a few of my favourite "your skin but better" type of sophisticated scent potions by Nui Cobalt. Grey Wolf (A steely scent for unshakeable courage and impenetrable calm. White sandalwood, black amber, icy sage, cashmere, stone musk, lichen, softly smoked birchwood, grey suede, mountain springwater, and white peppercorn. Wear when you need to remember your strength and own your power.) Grey Wolf is a fantastic representation of one of my favourite animals. On opening it's cold and a bit sweet smelling with a distinct clean masculine element to this blend. Then the peppercorn melds in with the coolness of the sage, a soft trace of smoke and cashmere I recognize from other treasured vials and bottles from by Nui Cobalt, all creating the impression of a dappled grey, white and black coat slipping from the shadows. A slight greenness of lichen peeks out if I close my eyes and concentrate. For me, the true magic hits when a soft magnetic combination of smokey suede and creamy sandalwood appears on the dry down that reminds me of a great deal of Mourning Veil and Grey Wolf morphs a bit more feminine. You would think all of these listed notes would amplify and overtake a room but Forest does it again, as Grey Wolf is another glowing aura type of blend, that stays close to the skin while somehow projecting your inner self and you feel you can do anything. White-Tailed Deer (A blend for peace, tranquility, and bountiful blessings. Soft brown suede, golden musk, wild forest berries, and roasted chestnuts dusted with maple sugar.) Here it is, the blend that has blown me away with a magical cream dipped suede aroma on top of a delicious sugary berry nut and textile mixture under it all that makes no sense why it all works BUT it does. White-Tailed Deer also conjures personal memories of my days in the hollow practising archery and I'm under some fantastic spell as I don't want to put this vial down. This blend also works as a sleep scent potion as I huff my wrists and it's off to dreamland and I can still smell the creaminess sweetness 10 hours later. I don't know what could make this perfume any better, perhaps a hint of salt? Nui Cobalt Designs Comments are closed.
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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