*reviews composed in April 2020 Spring is slowly returning and these are the blends that have helped me battle the end of winter blues, Valentine-blahs that hit every year and have been gentle and intriguing distractions. From timeless florals that smell fresh from the rained-over garden, comforting intoxicating honeyed fruit and dark forest greenery plus everything unexpected, this was the perfect way to herald in spring, new beginnings and an attitude about different subjects (and notes). *A special thank you to Forest and Josh from Nui Cobalt Designs for sending me these fragrances. -The following perfumes lasted from 2 (Coimetrophilia) to 13 hours (The Bees' High Tea and Ailurophilia) on my skin and even longer in my hair and upper neck. Purchased Bottles: The Bee's Knees (A lively blend to brighten the mood and lift your spirits. Leaves of lemon balm and crushed coriander seeds accompany lavender scones with spring harvest honey and a scant drop of green cognac. Wear this scent to chase away the doldrums and banish the blues.)(-bottle purchased last year-) Simply put The Bee's Knees is one of the most realistic honey and old english lavender oils I have found in the indie realm. On me, this blend is sun-warmed dark golden honey drizzled over sugar-dusted lavender scones, I don't get any cognac or additional herbs and if they are there, they are blended in so seamlessly and expertly. It's magnificent and is a crowning jewel of my vast collection. Every time I wear it I imagine an English garden scene in late spring into summer and The Bee's Knees instantly brightens my mood as described. It was love at first sniff and what can I say, I fell hard. The Bees' Cotillion (So fancy! This ebullient blend evokes mirth and merriment to highlight your most endearing qualities. Succulent pears simmering in spring honey with the gentlest breeze of lily carried in a homespun infusion of honeysuckle flowers.)(-purchased this year after becoming entranced by the vial last year-) The Bees' Cotillion is an intoxicating blend of fruit, warm honey (I can't get enough of Nui Cobalt's honey fragrances; I want to hoard them all like a shimmery amber dragon) and florals. It has found a special place on top my vanity, is one of my favourite pear perfumes to date and I know this sounds odd but this scent is lucky as good things seem to happen when I don it. It's professional and positively unique and says I have arrived in life while also staying approachable. Anthophilia ~The love of Flowers. (White tea rose, French lavender, cotton flower, Easter lily, pear blossom, the barest hint of ylang, and the vivid green of snipped stems. Wear this scent to attract beauty, pleasure, and luxury.) Fragrance currently listed on the site (-purchased vial and shortly after full bottle-) I can't help but hold my head high and breathe deep with this lovely blend as it evokes a treasured era of study for myself and taps into happy childhood memories of Easter celebrations and events. On opening, it's a bouquet of florals and sweet pear anchoring the medley keeping it from being considered heady and this beautiful balance and waltz of spring florals stay true throughout the night without veering into soap nor hairspray/chemical; Anthophilia is a nosegay of refinement and feminity. If you love or are searching for the nectar you get from a bouquet of roses and lilies with an unexpected sweet airiness of pear (and a drop of vanilla- ylang ylang), definitely give Anthophilia a wave of the wrist. It's simply magnificent! Brava, Nui Cobalt Designs! Purchased vials and press samples: Coimetrophilia ~The love of Cemeteries. Freshly turned soil, gentle rain, moss-covered tombstones, low-lying fog, old red oaks, and fading funeral lilies. Wear this somber scent to invoke the blessings of your ancestors and commune with the dearly departed.) (-purchased vial-) I had to purchase this vial as it called out to my fascination with places of sacred rest of the departed and I wasn't disappointed. On application, I get this ultra-realistic wet spring grass aroma that slowly shifts over to cold wet stone, a hint of decaying white lily and finally dries down to comforting moss and dirt. Coimetrophilia captures my memories of wandering in the local cemetery as a child in spring tentatively touching the stormed-over worn stones and deciphering names and dates covered by emerald moss. For longevity, Coimetrophilia fades within a few hours. It also stayed relatively close to my skin which I appreciated as I could bring a little unique though respectful macabre into the work setting and not disturb anyone and be left to my fond memories of exploration and the stories I have gathered about those gone but not forgotten. Stinger "Even bees, the little almsmen of spring bowers, know there is richest juice in poison-flowers." - John Keats (A refreshing potion to cleanse, heal, and protect. Blackberry brambles, honeyed black tea, and crushed coriander with ginger root, lemon myrtle, fresh basil, and fig. Wear to banish negativity and cast a radiant shield to repel all malefaction.) Nui Cobalt is one of the only shops that creates tea blends my finicky chemistry will play nice with and Stinger is a star example. It's intoxicating lush fruit, lemony aromatic herbs and dark seductive tea. For those that grew up in the country, welcome back to memories of berry picking deep in the jaggers; just watch out for those pesky yellow jackets or white-faced hornets! Mmmph. Negative everything, be gone! Ailurophilia ~The love of Cats. (Egyptian musk, tonka, and dulce de leche wrapped in luxuriant cashmere, soft suede, wisps of sandalwood and copal smoke. Wear this comforting concoction to honor your feline familiars and invoke their ancient power.) (-purchased vial-) With Ailurophilia I get a glow or aura of allure, pampered luxury and Old Hollywood Royalty at its finest. Perhaps I can finally detect and identify musk because this is sublime and it lasts 12+ hours on my skin, amplifying with every hour as the first sweet comforting dulce de leche notes fade. Like a feline, Ailurophilia has so many facets to its character; it's overall mysterious, fascinating and a bit naughty. If you are looking for a mental image, I immediately think of Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra winking as she makes her grand entrance to Rome. Home Sweet Hive Bees do have a smell, you know, and if they don't they should, for their feet are dusted with spices from a million flowers.” - Ray Bradbury (A comforting blend for calm contentment. Bulgarian lavender, oatstraw, honey-roasted chestnuts, maple sugar and a scant pinch of lemon zest. Wear for grounding, centering, and to carry sacred space wherever you go.) With the whole world going mad, this is one perfume I could bathe in as I get a tussy mussey of relaxing lavender and oatstraw that just invites warm comforting thoughts of home and sanctuary. The savoury roasted chestnuts come out more as this oil is aging and it melds sublimely with the sweet maple sugar. Home Sweet Hive is a delightful blending of spring and fall and I could see myself wearing this perfume in early spring and then again in fall and winter. Higher Mind (Smart is sexy. An assertive and herbaceous scent composed of green tea, sage, three sacred sandalwoods, rosemary, chilled citrus, and tonka. Wear this enchanted fragrance to hone perception, wit, and focus.)(-arrived with purchased order-) Rosemary! Finally, I am reunited with the unmistakable scent of fresh crushed rosemary and all things green and enchanting. I could happily huff this oil all day and I have noticed Higher Mind clears the cobwebs and helps me "put my thinking cap on" as my Baba always said. The drydown is unexpectedly alluring leaning slightly masculine. Another keeper and I believe I'm going to wear this perfume when I'm studying different subjects I missed so long ago. The Bees' High Tea (An uplifting blend to forge lasting connections and cultivate friendships. Delicate vanilla cakes with rose petal preserves, elderflower wine, and Earl Grey tea with a dainty drop of spring harvest honey.) (-purchased vial-) *Cue the violins and donning the white lace gloves* I finally have my little claws on The Bees' High Tea and it's everything everyone was saying it was. This is STUNNING! For those that fell hard for LOVE, you must try The Bees' High Tea because they are undeniably (surprise) sister scents. I recognize the vintage powdery rose and vanilla from LOVE right out of the gate and the addition of a drop of honey and earl grey elevates this blend from Oooo to Mmmphf! It's been a week since I received this vial and the vanilla cake is deepening with hint of butter on the long drydown (as well as the rose jam) and the tea is there staying true and not turning soapy. The elderberry wine (smells like rich less sweet grapes with a trace of tartness) is the note that amps on me the most and I'm learning all about a new note that obviously loves my chemistry. Overall a sweet elegant and yet almost playful perfume. Cobalt Druid: Sultry (A time-honored Hoodoo blend, famous for its power to attract passionate love as well as abundant wealth. Two dark, lascivious vanillas swirled with dragon's blood, heavy velvet musk and the secrets of an old rootworker's conjure cabinet.) Now this one is intriguing. I get heavy sweet dragon's blood, the impression of a black velvet dress slashed with red and a smearing of peanut butter? My chemistry has this tendency to morph patchouli to either rusted metal or peanut butter so I'm curious if there is unlisted patchouli in Sultry or my tired brain is playing tricks. Curiously, the peanut butter scent is fleeting as the dragon's blood amplifies on me and the vanilla with velvet takes over creating one seductive little number. Where is a black-masked mascarade ball when you need one? Busy Bee (A piquant potion for swift and efficient productivity. A blend of Oolong and Tibetan black tea with peach blossom honey, cardamom, and clove, sharpened with pink peppercorn and dry oakwood. Wear this scent for improved focus, diligence, and motivation.) The above should be hell on earth on my skin with the peach and tea (2 of my top death notes), but I'm enthralled that Busy Bee is an absolute treasure that smells delicious but dark and a little mysterious on me; perfect for the rainy weather and keeping my full attention. I finally have a true smelling peach tea perfume to show off and to recommend. Ceraunophilia ~The love of Thunder and Lightning (Slivered almond and ozone swirled with white clove, ambergris accord, ponderous grey musk, spiced tobacco, and black cotton. Wear this galvanic scent to call forth your inner strength and summon your fortitude.)(-purchased vial-) Boy, I'm learning such nifty names with this clever new Valentine collection and with Ceraunophilia I can't decide what keeps bringing me back for another closed-eyed huff, the salty ambergris, the almond or the dark swirling clove. This blend has left an impression on my scent memory and is a unique conceptual take on one of my favourite things in nature to watch and experience (the elements are there creating a perfect storm in my mind). It would be ideal for the bath and I can only hope it is turned into a potent bath spell someday.⚡☔ Bees on the Bayou "Every saint has a bee in his halo." - Elbert Hubbard (A dark, seductive blend for a sultry southern evening. Vines heavy with honeysuckle entwined with Easter lily, linden blossom, and neroli over a sweet foundation of pipe tobacco, pralines, and creamed honey. Wear to inspire lust and longing in the objects of your desire.) Nui Cobalt Designs has this amazing way with timeless florals and here the honeysuckle is sweet and rich while the neroli adds a fragrant tartness to the underlining notes. This is one lovely blend and I love how the honey pralines appear right as the florals fade. Speaking of the flowers I'm still learning unfamiliar notes, but I swear I detect the lemony-hearted magnolia making a cameo appearance at one point or other with Bees on the Bayou. I think I'll wear this oil more in the summer months and alternate this perfume with Feu Follet as those remind me so much of a family friend who was a southern belle. Queen Bee (An opulent blend to evoke confidence, poise, and effortless grace. Creamy white gardenia and fluffy whipped honey.) I was hoping for a summer version of Sixteen92's Ligeia, but instead have been united with sweet innocent nostalgia as this oil smells like a new baby doll in the warm sunlight on me and buttery gardenia. I didn't think I would find this familiar aroma until I finally got around to Rose Mallow or Violet Mallow from Solstice Scents but here it is taking me back and bringing a new white floral fragrance to reach for this summer. The heady floral powderiness of Queen Bee lasts quite a while as well, fading away completely at 10 hours. Another keeper! Wasp (An austere balsamic blend for when you need to clean up and get organized. Fresh linen, crisp chardonnay, and a rain-quenched herb garden edged with impeccable boxwood topiaries.) Just as described as the fresh linen scent rises up first to hit my nose, but this isn't the cheap headache-inducing kind, oh no, this is expensive fancy laundry detergent presented. The chardonnay is the next scent to slowly glide in and with that Wasp turns into a scene of laundry flapping in the warm spring sunshine while classical music plays from an open window. The final aroma that is noticed is something resembling calming rosemary. I like this oil and I guess this means I'm growing as a perfume collector as I can appreciate Wasp even with the expensive soap element front and centre. Black Honey “To be successful, one has to be one of three bees - the queen bee, the hardest working bee, or the bee that does not fit in.” - Suzy Kassem (An offbeat Gothic blend for true renegades and revolutionaries. Autumn harvest honey, nutmeg, clove, roasted cocoa, molasses, birch bark, star anise, and oud. Wear when you're ready to shake things up and ditch the comfort zone.) Not at all what I was expecting as I get spiced tootsie roll pops candy in the vial and on my skin I get root beer barrel candies (I guess I amp birch). The long drydown a glimmer of honey and vanilla comes forward, and then the root beer returns. Well, that is all different and I'm sure this would be someone's perfect cup of tea...actually I do know someone who would love this for pure nostalgia reasons. As for me- Oh well, can't love everything. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note (or series of notes) may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Selenophilia ~The Love of the Moon (Night-blooming jasmine, dewy gardenia, Mysore sandalwood, white amber, pearlescent musk, silver sage and a touch of frozen clove. Wear this luminous blend to invoke the magic of the Moon and draw down her healing energy.) (-purchased vial-) More and more I'm finding new facets of Selenophilia to be awed by as this oil has in store something new every hour it seems. It morphs and changes like the moon itself throughout the month and year starting out bright, buttery and luminous bringing to mind a full moon and then it darkens with the clove and almost something smokey which turns over completely to soft and classic (for me the drydown is my favourite). This is a lovely heady white floral perfume to reach for when you need something with a little oomph and glamour. Bee In Your Bonnet "Books are the bees which carry the quickening pollen from one to another mind." - James Russell Lowell (A piquant blend to enliven the mind and stir the senses. Raw rhubarb and cardamom with toasted oats, Madagascar vanilla, ginger ale, and caramelized honey. Wear for support in any intellectual effort to stay sharp and alleviate brain fog.) Here is another fragrant medley to wake the senses and clear the cobwebs. For those seeking the tart juiciness of rhubarb, here's Bee In Your Bonnet! On me, I get the rhubarb and slight bubbliness of the ginger ale after about 20 minutes on the long drydown the vanilla and toasted oats with honey slowly become more apparent. This one is a like not love, but a keeper overall. Dendrophilia ~The love of Trees. (Moss-covered deadfall, birchwood and pine, lingering resins and sunlight through the leaves, a trace of woodsmoke, the memory of vetiver and cedar. Wear this evocative blend to commune with the spirits of nature and reconnect with your primal wisdom.)(-arrived with purchased order-) My dream Moss Maiden perfume is that you? Oh, I feel like some fantastic warrior queen of the ancient forests painted in blue woad or a nimble-footed dryad of myth with Dendrophilia and I'm going to say it, one of the best realistic spring forest fragrances I have encountered in the indie realm. On me, the hyper-realistic moss and deadfall amplify (along with a hint of woodsmoke and dried pine needles) and sweep me away to dream locales and treasured stories. This is joining Sixteen92's masterpiece, Lycanthrope for instant relaxation and meditative/sleep oils. The Birds and the Bees (A very sexy fragrance of dark amber resin, Moroccan musk, ruby red and bright white grapefruits, a spike of black clove and a swirl of summer honey. Wear this sensual perfume to inspire passion and kindle romance.)(-purchased vial-) I'm finding my skin chemistry battles grapefruit and then drains any beauty from it turning it into chalky bubblegum (this is the 4th blend this has happened with from different shops). Ah, but in my hair is a whole different story as I get the mystique and seductive quality from The Birds and the Bees. Just perhaps I'm finally learning to identify musks because I can detect something "different" swirling in the winds. Something resembling fine plush fabric is also present or that could be my imagination. Into unscented whipped soap, The Birds and the Bees goes to turn some heads this upcoming spring and summer. For longevity, this one is fleeting, but nice while it lasts. Danu (Where the sea meets the sky, where the stormwaters return along the sun's rays, the loving kindness of the Universal Mother in her Celtic aspect. A luminous moon-white floral meets an iridescent aquatic. Three tender lotuses, Tahitian monoi, slender bamboo stalks, tuberose, and a soothing cup of tea.) Poetry in the description and poetry in the vial as I get salty tuberose that brings to mind a lone blossom bobbing in the incoming waves. On my skin, more of the clean aspect of the notes amplifies and Danu smells like fresh salty expensive soap. It's certainly elegant and lovely, however, I need to remember this one can reach across a room if I put too much oil on. One tiny dab behind each ear is enough to take me away to unchartered locales and lyrical artistry. Swarm "Aerodynamically the bumble bee shouldn’t be able to fly, but the bumble bee doesn’t know it, so it goes on flying anyway." - Mary Kay Ash (This delightful blend inspires hope, attracts allies, and nourishes friendship. A honey-drizzled blueberry tart bejewelled with candied apricot in a toasted almond crust. Wear for connection, collaboration, and encouragement.) Mmm, this is really perfume? I could honestly drink this and I can't stop making embarrassing noises once Swarm is placed on my skin. Okay time to focus, I get Nui Cobalt's sublime realistic smelling blueberry accord and the textbook perfect toasted almond crust I recognize from Poppycock and yes even candied apricot. The honey is very delicate and slowly warms up along with the almond crust as the spectacular blueberry fades. With the craziness at work, I'm going to be donning this gem and secretly huffing my wrists and braid when no one is looking but then again, let them look and take a sniff of Swarm and behold something from a gourmand's dream. She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee "Last night as I was sleeping, I dreamt -- O, marvelous error -- That there was a beehive here inside my heart And the golden bees were making white combs And sweet honey from all my failures." - Antonio Machado (An ode to the living spirit of compassion. Cocoa butter and shea, cotton flower, silk tree, apple blossom, wildflower honey, bee balm, and heliotrope. Wear this scent to conjure an atmosphere of loving kindness and receptivity.) With this collection, I can't get over the adorable clever names and She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee is such a gentle delightful scent creation that smells like cocoa butter, lemony bee balm (must also applaud the use of this heavenly underappreciated note) apple and the barest hint of honey. It almost reminds me of Pixie with the realistic apple blossom, however, She Stopped To Pet A Bumblebee goes in a more slightly airy and fresh scented direction versus graham cracker and spring grass. I don't know about this scent potion creating loving kindness, but I do know this one calms me down in chaotic stress-filled spaces (like the packed supermarket) and I have been reaching for the vial especially this whole week for different reasons. Now the opening and initial hour after application are nice and pleasant, but I can't recommend the drydown on this one enough- it's a hint of remaining apple and lemon under creamy white chocolate and a kiss of honey. So pretty and hits the cravings, comfort factor and nostalgia elements perfectly. Nui Cobalt Designs Comments are closed.
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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