One Note At A Time: Cue the creepy piano music because it's GoOsEbUmPs/Halloween 2021 Sixteen924/2/2022
Sweet nostalgia is like the ultimate treat for us Cancer Suns so when I saw Sixteen92's first teaser for this collection I knew it would be coming home and I would be digging out an old loved friend (and even found a BookIt certificate I was using as a bookmark; I wonder if I can still cash it in?). Yes, I know I'm showing my age but there is something about this time of the year and the way indie artists capture a little lost part of yourself that you are dying to reconnect with that gets me every time. So without further ado, it's GoOsEbUmPsss.... Monster Blood (Plastic Candy Pails, Damp Concrete, Licorice Whips, Mounds of Sticky Marshmallow, Smouldering Firewood) Can we first appreciate the dead-on artwork for the notecard for this collection and the clever listed notes that promises one unique story with a twist of seasonal whimsy? Still years after stepping into the indie realm I continue to be blown away as indie perfumers are able to bottle this beautiful element and the very reaches of the imagination. Saying that I shouldn't be shocked how accurate the '80s-'90s candy pail scent is right down to the powdery plastic but I sure am and get instant goosebumps (HA!). That nostalgic aroma melds so well with the rained over concrete, liquorice and Sixteen92's infamous marshmallow accord. In a way, Monster Blood reminds me of The Sisters: Mary and could be a sibling scent with both having a hidden sandalwood heart surrounded by Halloween candy, Monster Blood seems however to be more of an atmospheric versus a homage to a playful but sinister personality. I can easily envision a simpler time filled with colourful Lisa Frank stickers, erasers shaped like foodstuffs and little me skipping down to the scholastic book fair with a pumpkin pail swinging on my arm ready to spend a whopping $10 and feeling like I am on top of the world and life couldn't get any better or more fragrant. One Day At Horrorland (Dark Bromine Water, Clattering Wooden Boats, Misty Dry Ice, Mossy Rocks, Muffled Din from the Midway, A Distant Screeeeeam) Oh, the mid-90's so many regretful events and haunting images occurred like a Dracula Jeff Goldblum in a video game...yes that happened and you are welcome if you go look it up or relive it in all its marvellous awkwardness. When comparing which version of Horrorland One Day At Horrorland lands me in, it's the zany and at times cringey video game (Goosebumps: Escape from Horrorland) as this is a realistic underwater cave with bouncing wooden coffin boats and a menacing though dashing vampire after you (don't look at me that way it was another time and those of us in the Pluto in Scorpio generation were already swooning over Louis from Interview with a Vampire; it was the start of the end, haha). If you missed those confusing years, you may recognize the distinct cold bromine water and dry ice effect from different rides at Disney World or Universal Studios. It's pretty impressive and great for sleep and even l layering with different oils for an added entertaining surprise. Welcome to Camp Nightmare (Campfire S'mores, Overgrown Brambles, Cold Autumn Air, Toasted Pumpkin, Earthy Musks) Mmhm so I don't know if it's the brambles or earthy musks but Welcome to Camp Nightmare takes me to a not so child-friendly place as I can't but think of a storyline of someone sneaking off with a summer crush after enjoying sticky smores and having a bit of fun unawares a masked killer is watching from behind the thick pine branches and swirling campfire smoke. There is something masculine and scandalous in this oil I certainly wasn't expecting and I think we have crossed into the Fear Street series versus Goosebumps with Welcome to Camp Nightmare, haha. Sixteen92 Leave it to Sixteen92 to take us on an otherworldly scent journey across the haunting nightmares from stories and eras of the past that still inspire and cause some rapid prayer motions when mentioned in hushed whispers. Banshee (Frozen Honeycomb, Wispy Fog, Sheer Linen, Spectral Violet, Moonflower, Shattered Glass) The eerie fragrance of a moonlit gauzy torn shroud with a hundred night-blooming florals and final offerings lingering in the folds billowing in the cold autumn winds. Be it fae or malevolent spirit screeching out the end of a mortal's life. Banshee is lovely and sings its own tale. I'm happy my curiosity won out and I grabbed this beauty. The violets resemble those from my beloved Mina Harker and I Believe in Mary Worth and the cold honey with a hint of something unsettling brings to mind Telepathy and Ligeia whilst the realistic linen is a stellar combination of convincing textile accords of The Romance of Certain Old Clothes and Mein Herr Marquis. With all of these threads, Banshee is by the end of the night a complex tapestry of several past blends that creates one hauntingly beautiful perfume that you need not fear. Onryō (Dry Cedar Heartwood, Warm Sandalwood, Plum Wine, White Birch, Pale Vanilla, Delicate Pine Needle, Grey Ash) Familiar yet exotic. This blend opens with an offering of rich plum wine sprinkled with fallen dead pine needles from the surrounding dark forest that slowly reveals its warm woody heart of a trio of snapped pine branches, birch and cedar. The creamy sandalwood with non-gourmand vanilla and realistic papery ash provides the ending to this unsettling ode to a vengeful spirit and curious cold smelling atmospheric. Onryō is a must if you love the seductive qualities of plum wine and sandalwood or desire an early winter fragrance with a chilling secret waiting to be told. Revenant (Autumnal Apples, Saffron Crocus, Crisp Golden Leaves, Unripe Pumpkin, Dusty Hay Bales, Honey Bourbon) Just as the ever-popular fakeout scene in horror films where the hapless victim encounters a figure that is turned away from them that appears to be in distress and they slowly reach out to help (or curiosity gets the best of them) to only realize it's too late for any escape, you would be forgiven and may even let your guard down when thinking the listed notes of Revenant to only hold an unsuspecting harmless gourmand. It's however so much more when it turns around and reveals a seductive streak with a bite! On opening, the mashed apples verging on decaying are dominant with a splash of smokey bourbon, hint of woody cinnamon and dusty hay. Revenant is so sweet but deceiving and as the notes morph on the drydown more earthy elements and a distinct magnetic masculine quality comes forward that brings to mind a scene of a rendezvous at midnight in a foggy apple orchard with your now undead zombie beau, you can't help but lean in closer as he only wants a comforting cuddle and maybe one more nibble. Strigoi (Freshly Exhumed Funerary Boxes, A Circle of Salt, Cold Iron Stake, Heavy Stone, Stinging Rain, Blood, Fire) Speaking of a seductive fragrance with a bite we have the brother blend to Lycanthrope and where the latter is a sojourn into an ancient forest with protective eyes watching your every step as you brush by towering trees and moss-covered boulders during a powerful lightning storm, Strigoi patiently waits and is after much more and has such sinister plans in-store as you leave the guarded forest and enter the point of no return. On me, the salt and iron and realistic petrichor dominant with a wisp of ashed smoke after the initial opening of cedar and pine wood gives way to what lays underneath. As you can expect from a perfume inspired by the ultimate legend draped in dark mystique and forbidden allure, Strigoi conjures such visions to appear and steals the ever innocent heart and takes you away in imagination or to vivid dreams. Wraith (Luminous Amber, Divinatory Tea Leaves, Candle Wax, Pomegranate, Black Myrrh, Howling Wind, Otherworldly Musks) To finish up this scented tour of the undead of the world and times is a surprise favourite out of the collection. Tea is such a finicky note with my skin chemistry and when I find a success, it's an immediate recommendation and ramble in store. Wraith ticks all the boxes and with the addition of a rarely ever seen pomegranate note that adds a delicate tartness and sweetness to the surrounding notes of photorealistic candle smoke and an impression of cold winds, it ends as a lovely homage to the semblance of the former plane. Out of all perfumes in this collection Wraith is the most wearable in the professional setting, not having such a noticeable throw as Banshee or Onryo; staying close creating the perfect ghostly aura. Sixteen92 One Note At A Time: Cimetière du Père Lachaise - Paris, France (Notes: Faded lipstick, moss-covered brick, hazy morning fog, discarded petals, packed dirt, chestnut wood, distant chimney smoke) ☠This largest cemetery in France is the final resting place of several famous artists, writers and dancers. Some names you may recognize are Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan, Peter Abelard and Héloïse, Frédéric Chopin and Jim Morrison. Opened in 1804, Cimetière du Père Lachaise started off as the additional interment of Paris's deceased after the closing of the over-packed Cimetière des Saints-Innocents which is another famous cemetery that has been featured in a few pages of fiction- Anne Rice's The Vampire Lestat (this won't be the last we hear of Lestat in this long overdue review of iconic cemeteries) and Patrick Süskind's Perfume. Not to be outdone Cimetière du Père Lachaise has been mentioned in works and films such as: Victor Hugo's Les Misérables, Alexandre Dumas's The Count of Monte Cristo and The Doors. Opening the vial I'm greeted by the sensation of realistic cold air and the scent of dirty stones and dusty brick. The cold dirt encrusted stone with an roll of aged moss intensifies on the skin and a billow of ashes and smoke spreads across this dark scene. You can easily imagine yourself walking into this locale surrounded by centuries-old monuments with poetic epitaphs and fitting tributes. Nearly an hour later a distinct vintage lipstick fragrance wafts out of the lanes and pays a lovely homage to the once popular tradition of kissing Oscar Wilde's tomb. It's at this point of this atmospheric tour that I'm reminded of an unfortunate miss perfume that ended up a disaster with my chemistry- Hydromancy. Ever so slowly that medicinal induced nightmare creeps out of Cimetière du Père Lachaise and I'm still at a loss what exactly my chemistry morphs with to resemble old fashioned cough syrup on a metal spoon, the violets, the fog note? It remains a frustrating mystery. All I can end this round with is I do prefer Cimetière du Père Lachaise to Hydromancy as one will allow me more time to enjoy the nifty realistic atmospheric elements before changing over and it fades softly after a few hours versus launching into a full on assault on my poor head whilst amping to the heavens and back. Highgate Cemetery - London, England (Notes: Earl Grey tea, lavender sprigs, juniper berry, ivy, gravel, crumbling cobblestones, delicate fallen leaves & soft mittens) ☠Part of the "Magnificent Seven" located outside of central London, Highgate Cemetery opened in 1839 and has the status of being a duel nature preserve and is a popular site to pay one's last respects to several movers, thinkers and entertainers of different eras. It is also a location that is believed home to a supernatural being known as the "Highgate Vampire", this figure real or not, Highgate is where you will find tombs and markers to: John Galsworthy, Bob Hoskins, Lizzie Siddall, George Eliot, Malcolm Tierney and Henry Gray. For a fragrance inspired by the stalking grounds of a demonic vampire this blend is surprisingly uplifting, peaceful and pretty. A non-soapy earl grey tea with an additional grating of bergamot and soft buds of lavender is dominant on my skin with a background of crumbled stone and juniper sprigs. Highgate Cemetery is nothing like I was expecting (I was hoping for the inclusion of ink for a nod to all the brilliant authors and poets interned in the grounds and to be perfectly honest, a drop of blood included), however I oddly enjoy this one and I can see myself reaching for this vial in the dead of winter. On the long dry down Sixteen92's infamous textile and tactile accords appear with something resembling worn yarn mittens and warm skin. Highgate Cemetery is a cosy unobtrusive medley with drops of nature and I can understand why it was a smash hit this past autumn. Hollywood Forever Cemetery - Los Angeles, California (Notes: Glamorous satin and soft feather fringe, black fig, orris, tonka, bourbon on the rocks, smoked cardamom, cold marble) ☠Even though recent rockstars such as Chris Cornell and iconic childhood voice actors as Mel Blanc reside within the sprawling 40 acres of land, this cemetery was founded in 1899 and has gone under numerous renovations and name changes. Hollywood Forever Cemetery is the current moniker and this site is loaded with Tinseltown's elite departed. I could rattle off names all day, but to save time, I'll list the names I would love to pay respects to (including Cornell and Blanc): Estelle Getty, Burt Reynolds, Lucille Bliss, Marion Davies, Judy Garland, Virginia Rappe, Mickey Rooney, Benjamin "Bugsy" Siegel and Rudolph Valentino. The glitzy and elegant spirit of Old Hollywood comes through brilliantly in this blend. A celebratory fig that reads as a cranberry cocktail opens this perfume and then this soft realistic textile element slowly presents itself to take this wearer into her fantasies of time travel back to the golden era of cinema and donning a satin white floor-length gown with a feathered boa and patter of powder (if only for 6 hours). The twist ending of this scent experience is a photo-realistic smooth cold marble or ice note that hits the mid-nose reminding me this is a haunting tribute to the heyday of silver screen classics. Sixteen92 channels another bygone era for me and Claire is the undefeated Queen of Atmospherics in my book, brava! Lafayette Cemetery No 1 - New Orleans, Louisiana (Notes: White mandevilla, sooty dragon’s blood, wild datura, wrought iron gates, muddy clay, living moss, chicory root, bone dust, chalk) ☠Unlike the other cemeteries on this scent tour, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 is closed to the public due to it's unfortunate dilapidated state (from natural disasters and vandalism). It was founded in 1833 and I was not able to find a large list of any easily recognizable figures, this final resting place seems more centred around founding families of New Orleans and it was a hot spot of paranormal activity and tourists spanning back to the 1990s with the popularity of The Vampire Chronicles series and various music videos. In the vial Lafayette Cemetery No 1 presents as a cold floral to the nose. It changes on application as a distinct rusty iron aroma collides with the top white florals and a dusty chalk wafts over the senses. It's another transportative scent potion. I wouldn't call Lafayette Cemetery No 1 a true autumnal blend, it almost has a hidden humidity in it that brings to mind the end of summer and right when you can feel the first nip in the air. As time ticks on, more earthy notes appear and Sixteen92' trademark dragon's blood becomes more noticeable turning this thick (nearly soapy) floral into an almost sinister realm. In ways, Lafayette Cemetery No 1 shares similar qualities of Necromancy. Between the two perfumes, Necromancy is still my top pick. Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán - Oaxaca, Mexico (Notes: Wreaths of marigold & cockscomb, dusty cocoa, canela, sugar cube, flickering votives, honey cakes) ☠Undoubtedly the oldest cemetery on this inspired olfactory journey (the founding dates flucuate from the 18th to the late 16th century), Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is best known for it's Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations and traditions. This cultural celebration of life, death and family starts on the morning of October 31st and continues into the month of November. Offerings are made from little bells to booze and sweetened pumpkin. Somehow I think Sixteen92 has waited years to offer a scented "eulogy" to this fascinating place and the Day of the Dead as Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is everything exotic, ambient and tasty rolled into one oil. For placement of favourite perfumes within this set, Hollywood Forever Cemetery is my top choice with Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán a close second. I didn't expect to say that but hands down Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán is the best marigold perfume I have found in the indie realm and I'm in awe how nice my chemistry plays with every note listed. If you love dusty peppery florals with a twist of pseudo-gourmand (the foodie notes are there but I promise you, you won't smell like a bakery) this one is a must to have. As with every oil in the Memento Mori collection, Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán smells like a specific location, holds a different feeling and you can tell it was extremely well-researched. Querida (Blood red roses, ceylon cinnamon, smouldering resins, golden amber, ethereal swirl of opium) In addition to cemeteries around the globe/ Memento Mori, Sixteen92 unveiled an Addams' Family set for Fall 2020 and I had to get my claws on Morticia's inspired fragrance. It's taken 6 months but I think I finally have this oil aged and I'm slowly falling under it's particular spell. Now I must admit, the vial wand doesn't hold the most encouraging aroma as I get paint thinner and something masculine smelling (all pinching threatening to turn into one humdinger of a headache), but once applied Querida begins to intrigue and seduce. A thick smoke mix of ancient practices appears first then the dark roses slowly reveal themselves along with a lacing of sweet opium. It's just when the realistic roses and vintage amber that Sixteen92 excels at begin to bloom and take my mind away that the full story and scene of Querida comes clear, this is that beautiful tango scene from the sequel film which made and still makes all little black hearts flutter and vow to learn to dance and never settle. Querida is spicy, exotic, dark, dangerous and full of passion. Who doesn't want to smell like that? Death By Stereo! (Night air on the boardwalk, spun sugar and cider, melted ice cream, cannabis accord, whirling tendrils of nag champa) Here's another that needed quite a bit of aging, however unlike Querida, I'm still not sure about Death By Stereo! as it's sadly forgettable. The brief opening is lovely smelling of cool fall air, spilled apple cider and sweet sticky delights then it transforms entirely into soapy incense and stays that way all night. As much as I want to love Death By Stereo! as the legion of fans who recommended this perfume, I don't think this ode to one of the most iconic and quotable vampire films is for me. I'm going to pass Death By Stereo! along to a friend. (*Please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Oh What Fun! (A bustling winter gathering filled with warm wishes, mulled wine, dried winter figs, cranberry garlands, smoky tonka, vetiver, amber and a whisper of incense.) Mmm, one whiff and I knew I chose wisely with this seasonal oil. I adore the tart scent of cranberry and when added to the mulled wine and hidden pine then it's a merry party. Funny enough it could very well be a sibling fragrance to Hollywood Forever Cemetery (with the tonka, amber and refinement elements), only this is the before holiday party with bulbs flashing and Hollywood Forever is what happens after the lights go out behind the locked gates. No surprise, Oh What Fun! easily landed on my list for favourite holiday perfumes I tried this past year and just like Hollywood Forever Cemetery and Panteón Viejo de Xoxocotlán, I hope these perfumes all return in 2021 for an encore! Sixteen92 We all have those guilty pleasure films that may not have been seen as cinematic gold in others' eyes but for you, you can't get enough of those certain types of mind-rotting-entertainment. It's candy for the brain and Jawbreaker (1999), is one of my ultimate guilty pleasure movies that matches perfectly to those criteria. Let me take you back and remind you a bit of time trip...(come on, indulge an old lady, this is all I have) We are at the final days of a millennium about to celebrate a full century of innovation, growth and advancements in technology (we aren't quite panicking just yet about changing over the 000's in our computer systems or Y2K Computer Bug- that comes in a few months and I slept right through New Years), medicine and industry (Oh Napster released that year!) etc and hey roller rinks and Butterfinger BBs still exist. There are strobbing silver lights, boy bands in baggy clothing, thumping night club scenes, bleached tips, and metallic clothing (plus lots of white pants) in about every music video and there's Madonna dancing with Austin Powers. It was a fun time for sure especially for those of us just learning our tastes with our cd players and which vhs tapes to grab at Blockbuster. It was a wide range of genres of movies that year but for me, Jawbreaker somehow captured that magical time what with the flashy pin-up 1950's styled clothing in daring neons mixed so perfectly with the 1990's grudge goth aesthetic (did anyone else race out to try to find a purple neckerchief and a nail polish named 'decay' or 'demented'?) and the quirky bubblegum murder meangirl plot serving as the body (ha!) of the film, it was hard not to love it, quote it and still think about. Enter Sixteen92 in the summer of 2020 announcing the grand reveal of the Summer 6th Anniversary collection. One look and I knew what I was bringing home. One Note At A Time: BEAUTIFUL. POPULAR. LOVED. FEARED. (Moonflower, tiare, bitter almond, blond woods, heat lightning, asphalt) In the film there are scenes of transformation and lovely manipulation at play and this perfume begins with the turn of the sun on wet bedraggled green sprouts that with attention would dominate a garden of followers er flowers. Very clever. The bitter almond and intoxicating white florals just lie under the all illuminating sun then all reveals the dangerous poisonous side that is still highly addictive and impossible to not be drawn to. I thankfully don't get any asphalt but there is a nifty morphing impression of metal in this perfume that hits out of the blue, just like a betrayal from someone you so wanted to believe and idolize. HAVE YOU MET VYLETTE? (Shy violet, pale leather, soft patchouli, fiddlehead fern, white rose, a crack of black pepper) On opening a familiar realistic greenhouse fern note from Serres d'Auteuil greets the nose along with a sweetness of a fresh white rose then ever slowly this perfume spins in some seductive leather, violet and punch of black pepper that adds underlying warmth and viola instant mysterious popularity on my vanity table. Have You Met Vylette? was made for us wallflowers that have a secret side that we just a nudge to reveal. Remember my fellow wallflowers, we hold the power and on a clear day, baby you can see tomorrow. PEACHY F-CKING KEEN (Peach preserves, white nectarine, black raspberry, syrupy benzoin, vanilla musk, rum) So who wants to sashay about smelling like a Fuzzy Navel drink? Those devilishly deceptive (though delicious) soft cocktails get me in trouble at weddings so unless I'm home and 'Pour Some Sugar On Me' or 'Hurricane' is thumping in the background, I can't wear this out as I amp this little number to the heavens and back and my coworkers would think I'm a lush, haha. I do love the spiked peach and additional dark fruit in this and appreciate it doesn't turn to raunchy cat urine on me, the listed vanilla musk will unexpectedly reappear in another purchased blend that I will get to rambling about in awhile. Overall, this is a Friday night or Saturday type of scent when you are up to no good and feel like strutting down a hallway like you own the burning world even in your pajamas. THE PRINCESS DI OF REAGAN HIGH (Coconut milk, star jasmine, pink birthday cake, warm honey, white amber) The Princess Di of Reagan High was the reigning queen of my summer fragrances in 2020 but she also can make a delightful cameo appearance now and again in the cold cruel months as the sweet, bright and delectable notes help banish the winter blahs and distract me from the looming 5-foot snowdrifts out my window. When it comes this perfume the coconut milk has thankfully mellowed and softened even more after all these months and the strawberry almond vanilla cake with drizzled golden honey and a warm white amber base shines through and tempts me to whip up a thick strawberry cake from scratch for the neighbors just because. The crunchy sugary topping is amping with lovely intensity this morning and stokes some hidden impulse to spread joy around, be liked by the community and put frills and ruffles on (again) just because and stick my head out the frozen over window risking serious wind rash and whistle to the birds so they could help me bake (they would probably tweet back some type of obscenity about it not being spring yet and stop bothering them). Yes, my fellow gloomy little hearts, this perfume makes you want to feel and be kind and want to turn into a crazed Snow White others would probably want to kill (use with caution). PROM QUEEN (White chrysanthemum, sticky honeysuckle, cherry limeade, red lollipop, smudged mascara, innocent cashmere, blood accord) I mentioned smelling and feeling like a crazed Snow White how about a demented Prom Queen with a big secret? Now at first this vial when it initially arrives is sickeningly sweet and tart with the cherry limeade and candy swirling underneath and an absence of any listed florals, but give Prom Queen several months of gentle aging and she will reveal her freaky even dare I say kinky side. For me, this one still opens with playful sticky sweet tartness of a melting popsicle then something sinister just hiding under the faux exterior of candy reveals in about an hour realistic floral petals, wet makeup and a tang of copper blood! This is the first time I have smelled realistic blood in a Sixteen92 scent creation and I love it and wish it to be found more in this indie's catalogue. There is also something to akin to draping material as well I can detect and I totally get the scent story of Prom Queen now. I KILLED THE TEEN DREAM (Vanilla bean ice cream, pink spun sugar and marshmallow, white cake crumbs, candied citron, a cracked jawbreaker, duct tape and gunpowder) And the award goes to for the most unique candy themed perfume I have ever smelled...Wowza! I Killed The Teen Dream (deal with it) is a wild ride. It's playful and inviting yet (cleverly) deceptively unnerving and twisted underneath perfectly matching the opening sequence and scenes of Jawbreaker. On me, the almost powdery creamy layer of candy shells and delicate citron amplifies first and the unmistakable aroma of sticky chemical glue from duct tape shortly follows. I don't get any gunpowder or ice cream which is a little disappointing, however, I do get Sixteen92's infamous mouthwatering marshmallow accord and it replaces the citron and lasts well into the next morning along with the return of a candy shell that reminds me of nostalgic easter baskets. I knew this perfume was going to be off the wall but I didn't expect anything like this and this is why Indies exist- to create one of kind scent potions that not only tell a commanding story but hit all the senses. No one else could have brought this type of perfume to life. Brava, Sixteen92! They F**ing Forgot My Birthday (Wedding cake, orange blossom honey, burned sugar, soft vanilla musk, unlit birthday candles, would you stop feeling sorry for yourself?) Here it is THE scent that launched a thousand reviews and set the indie world ablaze last year and it smells like I'm being smothered by 90's powdery sweet My Little Pony toys. Great. Sadly, this was the biggest disappointment purchase of 2020 for me and I'm still cursing out my skin chemistry every time I take this coveted bottle out to test hoping this will be the day the stunning wedding cake with buttercream icing and orange blossoms will stand firm against the onslaught of a cascade of warm powdery plastic (that I'm guessing is from the "unlit birthday candles" mingling with the vanilla musk), but alas, every time it's the same outcome of me just enveloped within moments and being laid low for a full day (and half if I don't scrub fast enough) with a pinching headache. This bottle has taught me so many things and the number one lesson is, I need to be more picky in 2021. One Note At A Time: Sixteen92 (a selection from the Spring 2020 and Fall 2019 collections)6/25/2020
Leave it to Sixteen92 to present a gorgeous reeling of atmospheric fragrances that makes me want to dress up in all my historical finery and pretend I'm in another era in entirely as I recite iconic lines in front my vanity table. The following are ramblings about a handful of scent potions from the Fall 2019 and Spring 2020 collections inspired by horror film/books and The Golden Age of Hollywood. These various vials and ampule have been patiently waiting for months and now they are ready for their close-ups! One Note At A Time: Redrum (inspired by Stephen King's The Shining (1977)) (Description and Notes- The muffled din of a ghostly masquerade party - faint clink of champagne flutes, a ticking ebony clock, expensive furs, hazy hallways, and specters moving through shadow) On opening there is a distinct mixture of something cloying and chemical-like almost akin to polished dark shellacked wood with mothballs (maybe even tire spray?) and yet fuzzy childhood memories of exploring forgotten closets are slowly resurfacing as I sit back. I can hear the sound of the closet door rustling and resisting to completely reveal its contained secrets against the grain of a thick arsenic-green carpet as Redrum takes me back, there's disturbed dust on plastic bags in the dim light and I can definitely detect the expensive furs and sweetness of alcohol from the champagne. It's eerie and unsettling as promised and yet a little like a personal homecoming for me as I can smell a familiar beautiful vintage perfume materializing just under the strong wood and chemical aromas. I never learned the names of the bottles that adorned my Baba's vanity table but I can clearly remember the label designs and the one I'm wanting to compare Redrum to had a gold label with a red border and was in a frosted glass tall slender bottle. If only that wood and cloying chemical combination would release me and let me enjoy a revisit to the fragrant ghosts of my childhood but alas it refuses to settle and I can get an unpleasant pinching headache with Redrum. I'm still keeping this vial for future costume ideas and a bit of personal nostalgia. Darkness Was Enough (inspired by Stephen King's 'Salem's Lot (1975)) (Notes- Ancient woods, beeswax candles, spiced honey, charred amber, saffron crocus) 'Salem's Lot, the book and the movie respectively are iconic horror treats and how I wish to smell like a seductive vampire hiding deep in an abandoned house with Darkness Was Enough, but alas I smell I'm enjoying spiced tomato soup next to a guttering candle. Reading the notes this tomato soup fragrance doesn't make sense and I have been racking my brain trying to figure what this blend reminds of in my museum-sized perfume collection and it finally hit me the other morning- Pyromancy. Darkness Was Enough smells like Pyromancy only more acidic if that makes sense and has a melting candle note versus a hot metal with pepper under the tomato soup aroma. Since I already have Pyromancy in a larger size (somedays I just want to smell like a piping bowl of creepy soup!), I don't honestly know the future for Darkness Was Enough. I may put it some whipped soap or pass it along to a coworker who is still exploring Sixteen92's amazing scent artistry. Bette (inspired by Ruth Elizabeth "Bette" Davis/Bette Davis, April 5, 1908 – October 6, 1989; some of her films include: What Ever Happened to Baby Jane?, All About Eve, The Little Foxes and All This And Heaven Too) (Notes-Angel food cake, floral honey, marshmallow, pistachio, French vanilla, loose black tea) The long wait was worth it when it comes to The Golden Age collection and, in particular, this fantastic marshmallow fragrance. Bette makes her entrance with promised realistic angel food cake (heavy on the sweet almond) and crumbled pistachio on top then divine french vanilla rolls in and completely elevates this perfume from delicious to très chic! The floral honey is a drizzling over the almond cake for those concerned and on me I swear I detect a drop of creamy sandalwood blended in with the Sixteen92's famous marshmallow. Bette lasts throughout a 13 hour shift and she's just marvellous! Jean (inspired by Harlean Harlow Carpenter/Jean Harlow, March 3, 1911 – June 7, 1937; some her films include: Bombshell, China Seas, Hell's Angels and Saratoga) (Notes- White gardenia, Mexican tuberose, sparkling aldehydes, ginger ale, passion fruit, coconut water, silken musks) If you are looking for a dreamy floral-fruit fragrance that harkens back to the glitz and sparkle of Old Hollywood, look no further than Jean. This is class, allure and a bit of playful sass. Right away I get the aldehydes I recognize from Habanera and Ligeia and they meld beautifully with the buttery gardenia and soft coconut. Sixteen92's gardenia is the reason I'm an avid hunter of that note now and I'm going to say it, no one else's compares- it never smells like soap or shampoo or stale hairspray, it's just a silken floral that adds elegance to any blend it touches. The tuberose adds a slight "dirtiness" to this perfume which is just aces and researching it looks like Jean may be also a homage to Jungle Gardenia which was favoured by the elite of Old Hollywood. The passion fruit becomes more apparent on me after a few hours along with a vintage quality that stays until the final notes fade. I received multiple compliments on this perfume and I adore Jean and must have a full bottle next year (I missed the spring collection waiting for my samples to arrive then rest). Thank you to all who recommended this beauty! Marlene (inspired by Marie Magdalene "Marlene" Dietrich/Marlene Dietrich, 27 December 1901 – 6 May 1992; some of her films include: The Scarlet Empress, Witness for the Prosecution, Around the World in 80 Days and Knight Without Armour) (Notes- Alba rose, copal, bearded iris, scarlet lips, flushed cheeks, davana, plum syrup, gin fizz, smoke) I think we can all agree, scent is a suggestive and a personal experience so I hope you will forgive me for getting a bit weepy with Marlene because after a long decade I have been reunited with the exact vintage fragrance of red lipstick my Baba used to don. She wore violets like a timeless queen and I can pick out a creamy powdery floral under the lipstick on me that smells indeed of violets and there is no cough syrup to report (which can occur when violets meet my finicky skin chemistry); what wonderful magic is this?! I don't get any rose or plum for those curious and there is perhaps a wisp of separate smoke in the background, but then again I always thought real vintage lipstick had a smokiness to it. I also can just make out the smallest drop of sweet gin hiding in the long dry down. When I sit down and go through previous offerings with similar notes, Bruise Violet and Mina Harker could be called louder sister scents of Marlene and even Mein Herr Marquis could be a sister blend. I was curious if Marlene would smell like Winifred with the plum and davana, but there is no scent comparison after all these weeks. I love how soft and pretty this perfume is on me. My only lament is I wish Marlene stayed on my skin longer as it fades within two hours on me. I may need to look into a EdP option next year, this is so lovely but fleeting. Louise (inspired by Mary Louise Brooks/Louise Brooks, November 14, 1906 – August 8, 1985; some of her films include: Pandora's Box, Love 'Em and Leave 'Em, The American Venus and God's Gift to Women) (Notes- Sultry amber, red ink, black kohl, night blooms, Tonkin musk (synthetic), wormwood, soft suede, glistening strands of pearls) So Louise is fascinating as it opens similar to Bridget Bishop with the "night blooms" being cold and a bit resinous then this slinky smokey ink and soft suede medley peeks out and turns aquatic and silky. The wormwood smells like cool absinthe droplets and I've stuck my nose into enough antique jewellery cupboards to recognize the scent of old silk strands and saltiness of worn pearls that is evident in Louise on the long dry down. Louise is impressive and I'm over the moon the suede hasn't turned into a leathery chemical-bomb on me (I seem to amplify the wormwood (almost like anise/licorice), a dirty iris and silky/aquatic seductive element of this perfume). I think I finally found a suede blend from Sixteen92 I can wear on my skin versus only in my hair in small measured applications *claps*. This is another bottle I must have when the times comes, in the meantime I can't stop dabbing on this little number and dancing like no one is watching and vamping in the mirror in black lacy garters. What can I say, this Mrs. Grundy is ready to transform into a Sheba! Sixteen92 The Poison Garden collection: Aconitum Atropa Belladonna Conium Maculatum Datura Metel Nerium Oleander One Note at a Time Aconitum (Listed Notes: Wolfsbane, tangled roots, wildflower field, metal, storm, rock, black fur, wild musk) In the vial: FRESH CUT SUN-WARMED GRASS and swaying MEADOW GREENS Applied: Aconitum is an instant summertime snapshot as this brings to mind my Pap mowing the grass just before a thunderstorm hits with me just staring into the grey-black churning sky watching "angels bowl" as my grandfather always called it, the cut grass I can smell is incredibly realistic and I can detect a distinct storm element in this. It's at this point where I have my nose to wrist in complete nostalgic bliss with happy tears that a sweet stone note with an almost sudsy quality rises and hits hard and stays for nearly 8 hours. Up until that point I would have purchased a full bottle or gallon but I'm not a fan of the sudsy wet gravel rock scent that overtakes every other note. I must also jot down that Aconitum does not smell like my treasured Lycanthrope and I can't pick up any black fur, flowers or musk. A Happy Little Accident (curious pairing and saving grace): Aconitum + Alkemia Perfumes' Bacchante (High bush blueberries, wild ivy, Spanish lavender, aged oakmoss, tonka, decaying bark, and forest fungi)= storm watching while picking blueberries deep in the forest. The odd sweet soapy stone note is thankfully tempered with the realistic juicy blueberries and it creates a whole new fragrance I love to mix before I shut out the sun and sleep the day away for night shift. Atropa Belladonna (Listed Notes: Nightshade berry, narcotic flowers, green tomato, green pepper, soil, broomstick, velvet plum) In the vial: COLD DEW-DRENCHED TOMATO LEAF and GREEN PEPPER Applied: This at first smells like canning green peppers in the basement with garden soil still on your shoes. Again an incredibly realistic blend that creates a distinct scene. As this oil dries I amp the green pepper and the potting soil accord with a dark plum slowly coming out behind all the spicy greenery. I don't get any flowers or berries but I do get the "velvet" impression and something that stays cold smelling. I was secretly hoping Atropa Belladonna would be a long lost sister scent to Winifred but where Winifred is green and purple velvet floral skirts fluttering across the silver-white moon over a graveyard, Atropa Belladonna is planted in a wet garden and may hold a deadly secret, depending on who you ask. I love that despite them sharing similiar notes they tell completely different tales. This one is a keeper but I need to remember to watch what other fragrance this vial touchs as the scent of spicy green pepper gets on everything and lingers! Conium Maculatum (Listed Notes: Hemlock flower, citrus blossom, coumarin, lavender spike, tobacco leaf, castoreum, oak, bergamot, dried iris) In the vial: CITRUS BLOSSOM, BERGAMOT and LAVENDER. It brings to mind Every Frozen Heart with that nifty frozen citrus ice pop fragrance. Applied: Ah! There's the promised lavender but it is a fleeting note as this strange mix of citrus and orris amps creating something sweet and freaky. I'm not sure I care for Conium Maculatum as that blend of citrus triggers my head. It's also leaning toward too masculine smelling for me but thankfully it doesn't last more than a few hours before it fades to lovely powder. I think I will use this in the oil warmer, it smells better in the vial versus my skin sadly. Datura Metel (Listed Notes: Datura blossom, sweet almond, rosewater, sugar cube, vanilla orchid, moth wing, wild honeycomb) In the vial: ALMOND, HONEY WATER and unlisted HONEYSUCKLE Applied: I do believe we have found a favourite vial in this collection for I am a deadly smelling hummingbird with Datura Metel and love it! I can't get enough of Sixteen92's honey and almond accords and here they are beautifully meshed. There is definitely something mysterious and floral in this blend and I'm falling hard for the drydown that has warm vanilla and powder. It almost smells like nectar from a honeysuckle vine but that note isn't listed. Wretched timing to be cautious of extra spending otherwise I would get a few items with this fragrance. Oh well, there is always the Resurrection event and this vial should get me through the summer unless I dump it on my head like I have been resisting to do since it arrived. Mmm Datura Metel is so pretty (it's in the same vintage vein of Mellifera), why aren't more people gushing about this gem? A must try if you love sweet honey scents. Nerium Oleander (Listed Notes: White & pink oleander, heliotrope, apple seed, sweet custard, pineapple, thyme, coconut water) In the vial: APPLE, VANILLA and a drop of PINEAPPLE JUICE Applied: Mmm... I guess I saved the best two for last as Nerium Oleander is another favourite which completely shocks me because it has coconut and pineapple yet somehow this blend works. Right away this perfume opens with a realistic apple note with creamy thick custard then the coconut and pineapple ring around this scent dessert making me question everything I ever thought about coconut fragrances. I guess I really don't hate them all and it all depends what accords they are paired with or the scent artist because this oil is divine and I will wear this. Oh, this oil reminds me of another surprise hit coconut blended perfume from last year- Really Most Sincerely Dead. Nerium Oleander is missing the honey, poppy seeds and licorice but it's fluffy and delicious smelling just like Really Most Sincerely Dead. If asked I would say this perfume smells exactly like what you would imagine would be on the judging table at The Great British Bake Off. Another keeper and a vial I could drink! And that concludes my year with The Circle program. I learned quite a bit throughout the months of sniffing, dabbing and slathering at different times those 27 different fragrances and could ramble all day about my personal discoveries but the main truth I must admit to myself is I'm a Halloween/Fall and Spring type of collector and prefer those seasons/releases to all others and wish there was an option available to purchase those early seasonal collections solely. Looking at the notes within the several releases I have a better success rate with spices, florals and quasi gourmands than for example pine or stone. My journey is over but I highly recommend The Circle to anyone that is able and ready to explore many facets and profiles of fragrances (with additional added perks for joining, who doesn't love coupons?). You never know what you will unexpectedly fall for and this subscription was a unique opportunity to learn something new about myself (I adore gardenias now and can't get enough of them, found my Victorian or Edwardian Ghost dream perfume and real successes with coconut accords, which all is huge). I hope to read everyone else's impressions plus personal scent journeys sometime and who knows if the Half Circle program ever returns, I may again see those lovely mysterious black boxes someday waiting for me. Thank you all for reading and don't worry this isn't the end of me purchasing from Sixteen92 (that will never be) this was just something I needed to share in case anyone was curious why I won't be contributing early Sixteen92 reviews for the year. I'm happy to wait just like everyone else. Winter 2018 Collection Ultima Thule The Fall of the House of Usher Ligeia The Raven Spirits of the Dead Ulalume One Note at a Time: Ultima Thule *The Circle exclusive fragrance for 2018 (Listed Notes: Burning black woods, warm resins, cashmere musk, chestnut, clove bud, black pepper, toasted vanilla) In the bottle: VANILLA, RESINS and PEPPER. Yes, Sir! I'm ready to slather. Applied: On opening, I get a black, grey and sepia colour variation with this oil which is pretty nifty and it matches the iconic 1848 Daguerreotype of Edgar Allan Poe. It makes me think of a piece of memento mori on the mantel with sad phonograph music playing while a plate of Christmas treats grows colder next to a snow-covered window. The chestnuts and a warm sandalwood accord amplify on me with a hidden salt-like note and the dark vanilla which also brings this intriguing blend into the gourmand realm. It definitely heralds the theme for a cold winter's eve thinking of being surrounded by ghosts of loved ones or lost opportunities. This is creative genius! The Fall of the House of Usher (Listed Notes: Pine and fir needle, frozen hemlock, amyris, sweet myrrh, shadowed stone, precious woods) In the vial: RESINS and Sixteen92's infamous STONE accord. This could very well be a sweet pine sister scent of The Castle on the Hill. Applied: We wanted gothic winter and here it is as The Fall of the House of Usher is shaded sentinel pine against a cold stone wall. The pine note is incredibly realistic and how I wish it would stay more than a few minutes on my skin before being overtaken by sweet powdery myrrh but that is how the cards fall with this fragrance. I still like this perfume as I enjoy the imagery it conjures which is an abandoned mausoleum with a lone pine tree growing beside it. I love the stories that each vial and bottle seems to hold that comes from Sixteen92. Ligeia (Listed Notes: Ash, gardenia, opium haze, aldehydes, white iris, honeycomb, ambergris, cold skin) In the vial: GARDENIA, OPIUM and POWDER...You already know I love this. Applied: It's no secret I fell hard for Ligeia and haven't shut up about it since November but let's just for the sake of formality go through my full thoughts. This perfume starts out with a cold buttery gardenia that sparkles with aldehydes (I keep getting visions of a darkened room bathed in eerie moonlight with a pristine gardenia in a snowglobe sitting on a shelf and once you flip the ornate globe the snowflakes turn to ash inside; still can't fathom what haunting melody this beautiful object would play though, perhaps a forbidden waltz?), there is a distinct metal note that collides with the aldehydes and ambergris which amp on me for an hour giving this scent potion a dangerous animalistic element then a creamy honey arrives that takes me to another realm of happiness. Hours later the slight buttery sweetness is still present and I can detect the ash and a little powder. It's absolutely gorgeous, a complete masterpiece and I'll be picking up a full bottle once my vial runs out, Ligeia will be joining Necromancy, Telepathy, Sarah and Aeromancy as my perfect floral atmospherics that capture the season and my imagination. With such tremendous recent luck with white florals I need to revisit a few more vials, I really think I'll be singing more praises of florals soon. The Raven (Listed Notes: Tea leaf, plum wine, silver mirror, library dust, dried tobacco, black feather) In the vial: DUST, METAL and seductive PLUM WINE. Applied: Mmm... that plum note is sublime and I'm so grateful it amplifies on me with the distinct metal note. As this oil dries more atmospheric elements are released as the the dust and tea leaves come more forward to mix with the plum. I also smell something akin to rosewood but I don't see it listed. This is another vial that tells a story and I love that it smells oily blackish-purple like the iridescent sheen on a raven. I'll be definitely wearing this creation in fall as I don all of my Poe themed accessories. Spirits of the Dead (Listed Notes: Lapsang souchong, guaiac wood, saffron, black birch, Italian bergamot, styrax, vanilla pod) In the vial: I want to say TOBACCO or OUD with a sweet VANILLA. Applied: Oh this fragrance is strangely captivating and one I can't put down. I think I just found the epitome of a struggle against light and darkness with notes. I love how Spirits of the Dead morphs with distinct flickers of light (from the bergamot and romantic vanilla) that battles against being swallowed completely by something eerie, deep and smokey. An ideal early winter selection and another excellent disturbing and poetic oil that is sure to unnerve and intrigue company. Ulalume (Listed Notes: Moonflower, toasted almond, tonka bean, sweet fennel, narcissus, mourning veils) In the vial: ALMOND, FENNEL and OPIUM. For those that missed out on Lucy Westenra I think you would love this. Applied: Confession time- I love sweet almond in baking (I could sniff an open bottle all day long) and Ulalume holds one eerily sweet almond note that immediately takes my mind away to what cyanide may have smelled like on someone's breath. Depending on company I could see myself wearing this with a sinister little smile as I pull at my pearl necklace and let it drop back, it's a commanding fragrance that I'm sure will get some attention and garner some side looks. I oddly like it and will be wearing this oil in the colder months and while attending different events for my favourite time of the year. Holiday 2018 Collection Inside A Snowflake (Like the One on Your Sleeve) I Made My Family Disappear... Such A Misfit You Serious, Clark? (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). **Inside A Snowflake (Like the One on Your Sleeve) (Listed Notes: Snow flurries, holiday spices, evergreen forests, mistletoe, fuzzy green musk) -Inspired by the film: How The Grinch Stole Christmas *Side note: The vial is GREEN! What a delightful added touch In the vial: A mystery FRUIT, subtle SPICE, PINE NEEDLES and BUBBLEGUM? Applied: "What is that note?" That is exactly I've been saying for the past several months when I tried wearing this fragrance and I think I finally figured out what I'm smelling, it's TEABERRY. This smells like a light version of teaberry gum when first applied then dries down to a waxy spice pine combination. I'm really not sure I like it to be honest, it's too "safe" and I can only think of seeing someone wearing an itchy looking holiday sweater at an office Christmas party. You know that person wearing it wants to go wild but is held back because of those attending. For a Grinch inspired scent I was hoping for mean or mischievous notes to hit my nose, this is more after the Grinch grew a heart and became a polite member of society...whompwhomp... wait why do I smell fuzzy pickle relish? Okay that is different. This oil may work better in my hair, I'll need to try that or this could work in the bathtub. I Made My Family Disappear... (Listed Notes: French toast, dark coffee, flannel pajamas, marshmallow, frost, shattered ornaments, I hope we didn’t forget anything...) -Inspired by the film: Home Alone In the vial: [makes embarrassing noises while almost sticking the wand up my nose because how amazing it smells] Mmm...Oh wow that is realistic FRENCH TOAST with COFFEE and a hint of PINE Applied: [looks down at arm] WHY DO YOU HATE ME?! Once again my chemistry has betrayed me after giving me hope this fragrance would be magic on me and after a brief amping it is completely gone after 10 minutes. Well for that short time it was incredible and it smelled like buttery french toast and fresh brewed coffee with a nifty realistic fluffy flannel note and marshmallow. If I stick my nose right to my skin I can smell a faint pine note and maybe marshmallow with a drop of coffee but it's barely there. I think I need to order that scent locket soon or mix this in my hair mist spray. This is basically the adult equivalent of getting coal in my stocking instead of a treat. I'm pretty sad right now. **Such A Misfit (Listed Notes: Frosted sugar cookies, marshmallow fluff, vanilla bean, fresh candy canes, creamy white cocoa, a twinkling red nose) -Inspired by the film: Rudolph The Red-Nosed Reindeer In the vial: PEPPERMINT and VANILLA with COCOA Applied: Ack, chalky chocolate! I'm just not having luck with this collection sadly as I amp chalky smelling chocolate and a waxy vanilla then it disappears in 5 minutes. Perhaps these vials need a longer rest and will be better next winter. Or maybe winter/Christmas scents are just not for me. You Serious, Clark? (Listed Notes: Lukewarm spiked cider, leftover pie filling, frosty window panes, fresh firewood, family arguments) -Inspired by the film: National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation In the vial: APPLE CIDER and PINE Applied: Saved the best for last as I get a frosty pane of glass on the opening of this oil (how does Claire do that?!) and wafts of realistic buttery flaky pie crust that lasts about 4 hours. 8 hours and I can still smell wisps of apple spice and soft pine. I really like You Serious, Clark? and could see myself purchasing the detangler or hair serum in this comforting fragrance as the pine is more dominant in my hair and on my scarf rather than on my skin. I would definitely recommend this oil to anyone nervous about strong apple scents, this one is lovely and low key. Sixteen92 One Note at a Time: Necromancy *from the General Catalogue (Notes: Datura metel, ceremonial incense, funeral flowers, benzoin resin, ancient spirit boards, oud) If there ever was a Victorian or Edwardian Ghost scent out in the indie fragrance world to collect and cherish for myself Necromancy is definitely it as this creation creates visions of waltzing spirits, elaborate final ceremonies and tragic romance tales for the ages. In the bottle, this scent potion is a bit deceiving with incense, resin and a curious floral peeking behind everything and you may call Necromancy "pretty" at this point of time but once applied the captivating element of this perfume is released with a creamy narcotic floral (with a trace of vanilla and a drop of sweet dragon's blood) leading the way to another place and time then it all makes sense why Necromancy has graced the pages of a popular fashion forward magazine and comes highly recommended in certain circles. In regards to the general public's opinion concerning this oil, it's a clear winner (especially in the professional work setting) and acts like a billboard to stunning scent artistry to be found within the realm of indie perfumes. This is a true Holy Grail fragrance for me. Brava Claire! One Good Scare *limited edition that was brought back as part of the Halloween Favorites collection 2018 (Notes: Glowing jack-o-lanterns, charred marshmallows, roasted pumpkin seeds, falling leaves, campfire smoke) I've shared quite a bit about the strangely beautiful and elegant part of my perfume collection but really haven't written much about the fun playful corner so for a double feature about my favourite perfumes, I have to gush about One Good Scare as this is one (if not the best) morphing atmospheric gourmands I currently own and I just want to pour the bottle over my head while singing my own version of "Pour Some Sugar on Me" (how about "Pour Some Pumpkin On Me" and yes I whip my hair to the thumping chords in my head). I'm sticky creepy sweet from my head to my feet when I wear this scent confection and I love every second! One Good Scare opens with a realistic campfire smoke that then changes to frost-laced dead leaves with pumpkin flesh to nutty pumpkin seeds and dries down to a crave-worthy confection of marshmallow (and perhaps warm sandalwood?) that remains all day. It paints a scene straight from the silver screen of classic horror (accompanied by a little rock and metal music for good measure) and I couldn't be more pleased (this is also one perfume I'm not afraid to approach someone with and say either "Behold Halloween!" or "Smell Me!") I can't recommend this one enough. Sixteen92 Sixteen92 has provided me with some unexpected holy grail fragrances (Necromancy, Telepathy, Mercy Lewis, Lycanthrope, Baba Yaga, *One Good Scare and *Ligeia) but I haven't opened anything that contained a certain level of pure nostalgia such as the Halloween Limited Edition Collection: The Sisters. Not only did one my childhood dreams come true with "smelly stuff about the Sanderson Sisters" but I found a new scent love affair with gardenias and I couldn't be more pleased. These are the complex captured essences and iconic scenes of the Sanderson Sisters in all their memorable glory (Brava Claire!). One Note at a Time:
Winifred (Notes: Iron-distilled patchouli, davana, tomato leaf, crushed petals, dried plum, whirling candle smoke, crumbled gravestones) *currently available at the 2019 Resurrection Pre-Order event until January 18th When applied I immediately get a warm leafy plum, a distinct peppery tomato leaf note, a trace of dustiness from the gravestone and some type of watery white floral. This is swirling plum and green skirts in a graveyard under a pale moon. Depending on where I apply the oil to my skin, a light smoke note rises up with more fresh green tomato leaf and in my piled up hair, it's a complex patchwork of realistic plum and seductive unknown florals. Winifred is quite magnetic and I love to either wear this fragrance while relaxing with a good themed book or before sleeping the day away preparing for long work nights. Hours later or when I wake I'm greeted by something akin to dark purple velvet and dirt encrusted iron. I wonder if this arcane scent potion is what the wicked fiery charmer would have worn when she was courting poor Billy Butcherson (before she poisoned him)? When I'm not enjoying this oil at home, I'm going to be dabbing this perfume on for special occasions throughout the year and placing You Who Swallowed a Falling Star on my Resurrection 2020 list (it was mentioned Winifred and You Who Swallowed a Falling Star share the same mood and I need more dark fruit-floral atmospherics in my collection). Sarah (Notes: Threads of golden flax, heliotrope blossom, Angel’s trumpet, wilted gardenia, rice milk, dried orris, broom straw) *currently available at the 2019 Resurrection Pre-Order event until January 18th This limited edition opens with a warm savory bread-like note (akin to the one in Sarah Good) that then morphs slowly to creamy heliotrope and it's a little sweet but refined (innocent, playful but hiding an alluring secret underneath the hint of sweetness). My skin unlocks the gardenia and yes it does amp but thankfully doesn't run amok with my senses, it stays true to what others have been telling me gardenia can be and that is a beautiful buttery floral and Sarah lasts until the next morning. There is also a dreamy quality to this oil as it lulls my imagination and I'm so happy I took a chance on this bottle and completed my The Sisters collection (it turned out to be my personal favorite of the trio). I now need more gardenias in my life and a 10ml bottle of Sarah because it has become one of my go-tos for the workplace setting or when I simply need an enchanting oil to brush into my hair. Mary (Notes: Marshmallow root, milky chai, praline, sticky toffee, fallen maple leaves, firewood, the chocolate-covered finger of a man named Clark) *currently available at the 2019 Resurrection Pre-Order event until Janury 18th If I can pull my nose away from this bottle long enough ('tis a gourmand lover's dream, creamy and sticky treats that tempt just once more sniff) and apply the oil I'm greeted by melted milk chocolate, creamy buttery toffee and autumn woods (taking my time there could be a trace of warm sandalwood at the heart of this perfume) that pulls this crave-worthy creation into the atmospheric realm that Sixteen92 excels at. The caramel and marshmallow amp on me enough that I catch the attention of hungry coworkers when I wear this confectionery scent delight out and I have been asked several times if I had expensive tempered chocolates at my desk (especially after midnight). Must also jot down, Mary lasts the longest on me from the trio with Sarah a close second and Winifred crumbling to dust at around 8 hours. For all the sweet notes listed there is under the warm and comforting aspects of Mary something dangerous and it easily brings to mind the one line in the movie "Come out, my dear. We will not harm thee" (voiced by Winifred Sanderson/Bette Midler); perfectly capturing the essence of Mary Sanderson as she has the power to smell out children, talk sweetly and conjure some real devilry with her sisters if any poor child wandered too close to their cottage in the forest. This is also a fun fragrance, nicely matched to Mary's quirky facial expressions and her comical one-liners in the treasured film. I can definitely see myself reaching for this perfume quite often especially when I get cravings for something creamy sugary and with a trace of autumn atmospheric but refined...or if I want to watch my coworkers drool (they had the same reaction to One Good Scare *review coming soon which this delectable smelling bottle certainly shares some similarities to in complexity and overall mood.) Sixteen92 Sixteen92 Welcome to the expansion of my unsettling though strangely beautiful floral garden collection (with one of two transportive bright fragrances for good balance). Ever since I fell hard for Necromancy (feature article coming soon) I've been dashing about Sixteen92's catalogue of the rare, powdery, spicy and sweet gathering different vials with floral nuances. Some of these fragrances are available now in the general listing and others are (hopefully) to be returning for Resurrection 2019 and one is marked to disappear forever due to sourcing components. Vials: Mellifera A Thousand Times More Fair Bridget Bishop The Weird Sisters Mina Harker Lucy Westerna The Heart is a Lonely Hunter One Note at a Time The Weird Sisters *Fall 2017 Collection inspired by Bram Stoker's Dracula/brought back for a limited run in October 2018 (Listed Notes: Iris root, carnation, helichrysum, styrax, ruby-red lips, silk gowns, bone-white sandalwood) In the vial: I swear this vial releases a sinister chortling or clicking sound when I open it, it's so fantastically chilling and another that smells otherworldly. I do get a SWEET WOODEN CARNATION mixed with STYRAX, ORRIS and VIOLETS. This is a fragrance that would have fit in my Ave Victoria poison kit. Applied: What wonderful scent sorcery is this?! Not only do I have quite the unsettling and alluring scent potion on but it contains violets and they aren't some unholy amping note which fights against my chemistry, no these are powdery and wilted and softly morph becoming a "my skin but better" type of freaky sweet fragrance. Wow, if there ever was a perfume inspired by a horror classic The Weird Sisters is it. For anyone that hasn't read Dracula, I won't spoil anything for you but this oil captures a particular iconic scene perfectly and it allows me a special kind of smile walking down the halls at my workplace. This perfume lasts quite a while and many hours later a sandalwood note appears that is almost creamy. I may need to get a full bottle the next Resurrection event as this is a ghostly representation of pale moonlight in a vial. Love it! The Heart is a Lonely Hunter *a limited edition (Listed Notes: Tuberose absolute, soft skin musk, oakmoss, fresh earth, vanilla, iris) *appeared in my one order, thank you so much Claire! In the vial: Delicate TUBEROSE, VANILLA and the familiar SKIN MUSK I recognize from other oils in Sixteen92's past and present catalogue (it smells like expensive vintage hand lotion). This is a pretty spring fragrance combination. Intermission: It seems I learn something new every time I open a vial or bottle from Sixteen92 because The Heart is a Lonely Hunter was the fragrance that may have finally solved an odd mystery for me: why do I smell like musty sweet bananas? Turns out after completely falling head over heels in love with two gardenia heavy creations (reviews coming soon) I sat down and went through every note from E Lucevan Le Stelle, Le Demi-Monde, Paper Moon, The Primrose Path and The Heart is a Lonely Hunter to only discover one note in all of them they shared- Oakmoss. I now believe Oakmoss is the note that dominants in those oils when they touch my skin. I will be revisiting E Lucevan Le Stelle, Le Demi-Monde and others next year in spring to give gardenias another open-minded assessment. Applied: Now that I think I finally solved a truly frustrating puzzle about oakmoss vs. gardenias, I'm trying this vial and really attempting to get past the sweet banana scent that amps on me for a few hours. Once it settles down the earth and tuberose shine through and this is a very nice blend I can't stop sniffing. I think The Heart is a Lonely Hunter will be a lovely scent accessory in my hair or my car for spring as it is a romantic entanglement of floral, earth, powder and vanilla that harkens back to another time and place. Bridget Bishop *from the General Catalogue/ The Salem collection (Listed Notes: Night-blooming flowers, belladonna, bergamot peel, resinous oudh, nutmeg, ambroxan, scarlet musk) In the vial: OUDH, PEPPER and PETALS. It's a very sombre fragrance that reminds me of another that I loved to wear for Easter this year. Applied: Bridget Bishop is indeed darker sister scent of Il Dolce Suono but has a mysterious peppery floral present (instead of polished wood) with nutmeg and a hint of vanilla. Some scents just tell an immediate story when you allow them to meld with your skin and this oil has quite the tale to share and it pairs marvellously well with other amber or musk laced scent potions in my collection. I've found it creates the ultimate dead of winter fragrance when layered under The Castle On The Hill (it smells like a haunted abandoned chapel) and it also works well with the sweet ginger-biscuit and powdery hawthorn in Tituba. Definitely, Bridget Bishop is a hidden gem in Sixteen92's general catalogue that I wished I explored earlier. Mina Harker *Fall 2017 Collection inspired by Bram Stoker's Dracula/brought back for a limited run in October 2018 (Listed Notes: Cold jasmine tea, ripe plum, black violets, pale skin musk) In the vial: PLUM, VIOLETS and VINTAGE SKIN LOTION. Another understated lovely Victorian themed vial that would fit into my Ave Victoria poison kit nicely. This is the scent of a lady who has a lethal secret. Applied: Have I actually found another violet noted perfume that is working with my wonky chemistry? YES, yes dear readers I have! Oh, this is a fantastic scent creation that smells ethereal, beautifully strange AND somehow cold (seriously how does Claire do that?). I admit I was only hoping for the plum to shine through as it is one note I adore and I wanted to sort of scent preview how the plum would treat me when I went ahead and purchased a special edition bottle (review coming very soon). What a delightful surprise, the plum does stand out with a mild dark fruity sweetness and the black violets pair so well with that accord. I do notice that the violets amp over everything presented but mercifully shows some restraint and does not smell like nightmare inducing cough syrup in the slightest (RIP Hydromancy, you shall go to a better place). I must remember that it's BLACK VIOLETS that play so nice with my skin and nose (I must also remember Mina Harker only lasts 6 hours and I need to layer it next time). Putting another scent potion down on the list for full bottle purchase in the future. Lucy Westenra *Fall 2017 Collection inspired by Bram Stoker's Dracula/brought back for a limited run in October 2018 (Listed Notes: Brugmansia flower, night-blooming cereus, oud, guaiacwood, honey, fennel, stone) *Straight from Sixteen92's page: a component for this fragrance has become more difficult to source; we may not be able to bring this fragrance back after this release. In the vial: FLORALS, HONEY and STONE. Definitely another cold atmospheric. Applied: Lucy Westenra is described as "An ethereal and haunting green floral" and that is indeed true, it is certainly green with the fennel that amps and carries a medicinal quality with it. I want to say it almost smells like absinthe on me but then the stones amplifies with the honey and this turns into another fragrance that has a chilling story to share. As always Sixteen92's realistic honey and stone notes are to die for and this perfume is unlike anything smelling in my collection, I'm just not certain I like it. There is something that keeps me smelling it though and revisiting the vial but I don't think I will be purchasing a full bottle. It may a little too unique for me (I do have to admit my limits and I think Lucy Westenra is one perfume that reaches that). To be clear, I don't hate this oil, I love the scene this scent combination captures. It may be another that will wear better in my hair. I will try that idea next year after this vial has a long peaceful rest. A Thousand Times More Fair *from the General Catalogue but since the publication of this article this fragrance has been listed to be discontinued/soon to be removed from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Honeysuckle nectar, magnolia blossom, passion flower, white peach skin, ripe plum, bright vanilla bean, delicate musk) *appeared in my one order, thank you so much Claire! In the vial: FUZZY SPARKLING FRUIT and BRIGHT FLORALS, such a happy fragrance for summer. Applied: A Thousand Times More Fair is something that hits the memory bank and I have to shift through flavors, colors and packaging and this perfume smells exactly like- Fruit Stripe Chewing Gum. I wasn't expecting that but as I get older nostalgia in any form is becoming so important to me (I just read a fascinating article about why we love and search out nostalgic things) and I really enjoy this oil. I can also see why it is a best-seller it's youthful, clean and a delightful matchup of juicy fruit and florals. Must jot down to add to all the above mentioned, that this perfume has one impressive throw and lasts even through a shower. Not a creepy or chilling floral in the slightest but some days you need a little sunshine and happy memories; think of a dainty daisy or buttercup in a patch of shadowed branches and thorns. Mellifera *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Wildflower Honey Accord (not vegan), Violet, Jasmine Sambac, Vanilla Infused Sugar, Sandalwood) In the vial: Ah, SUGAR Ah, HONEY, HONEY. Here is another bright sunny perfume but it also has vintage pin-up quality to it with the VIOLET and JASMINE. A pin-up in summer? Now I'm all the more intrigued and want to go style my hair in Victory Rolls. Applied: Oh Sixteen92, your honey note is simply incredible and I can't wait to get Swarm in the next Resurrection event. The violets and jasmine amp on me with Mellifera but that was expected and it has improved immensely since I received the vial back in May. It does remind me of Blood & Honey but I believe that is only because of the honey in both love me and stays well into the next day. That pin-up quality is still there (with an addition of creamy sandalwood) and I like to don red lipstick and nail polish when I wear this perfume with delicate pearl studs to finish off the look. Again not a freaky scent creation but only transportive and one to recommend. Sixteen92 Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Vials: Forbidden Arts/ Fall 2018 (Released August 31st) Aeromancy Chiromancy Hydromancy Necromancy Pyromancy One Scent at a Time: Aeromancy (Listed Notes: Powdered snow, silver birch, dried leaves, rose oxide, a blanket of morning frost) -a method of divination that utilizes atmospheric conditions, cloud formations, and cosmological events In the vial: LEAVES, COLD AIR and a ROSE you could imagine coming straight from the setting of your favourite wicked fairytale. This fragrance could melt and turn the most floral hating heart. Applied: I'm going to say it, Sixteen92 has the most realistic rose and nature notes I have yet to encounter from any house of fragrance, you can smell creaking frosted branches, the cold green stems and ice lacing the petals of a single red rose. No soap to be found here, no "clean" reference, Aeromancy is a pure forest fragrance with a distinct floral that loves my skin and I need a full bottle. I can easily see myself wearing this perfume in winter (believe it or not I only have a few oils for that season versus the others). Even though this is a complex atmospheric it is also a unique professional setting scent I can wear with no fear of upsetting anyone sensitive to overpowering (alcohol drenched) common commercial sprays or blending into the beige background. Chiromancy (Listed Notes: Orris, worn leather *animal-friendly/synthetic, ink, porcelain, black truffle) -a method of divination utilizing the study of the palm, also called palmistry In the vial: LEATHER and INK. For those wary of leather, Chiromancy is subdued with a soft powder that comes from the ORRIS. It also creates a dusty element to the whole vial. All very interesting but I have been dying to get to experience the black truffle component. Just smelling the wand that note is absent, maybe my skin will wake the beast that others have commented this perfume holds in store for the curious. Applied: And...I get a swipe of worn leather then Chiromancy disappears completely. How very odd, I usually amp leather to the heavens. Wait, okay the powder is dusty on me and I can barely detect it or something else that is reminding me of old paper and dampness from a hand (salty almost like sweat). Sad to say no truffle appears but oddly I like Chiromancy (I'm really falling for orris when I can find that note in different perfumes) and I'm planning on purchasing Hessian of the Hollow next year (I don't think I need to worry about the mushroom note that scares others, my chemistry conceals it and amps smoke and metal so I believe that perfume needs to be in my collection). As for Chiromancy, I think I could create some interesting combinations with layering oils with this. Hydromancy (Listed Notes: Fog, cold violet, lichen, ambroxan, mineral accord, petrichor, glass) -a method of divination utilizing water, including currents, ebb and flow, or ripples produced by dropping objects into calm waters. In the vial: BAD CHILDHOOD MEMORIES of COUGH SYRUP. That's a first and I hope the last I will ever be unexpectedly reunited with one the worst smells of my youth. Allowing the distinct violets I'm guessing to react with the air, that medicinal nightmare fades and I'm holding GLASS, FLORAL SWEETNESS and COLDNESS (that's all a little more promising). Applied: I really want to love Hydromancy and violets but something is telling me the 19th attempt to appreciate this historic floral is no different from my 12th curious venture. Admittedly on me, Hydromancy settles slightly within an hour. There is a vintage quality that depending on how the air is moving in the room, it does turn my head for all the right reasons (and causes tears) reminding me of a lost loved one who wore violet as her signature scent and always smelled ethereal and regal. Alas, on me violets just don't hold that gift and I think I will be avoiding this note in the future. It's a real mystery how skin chemistries are so different as I've read such glowing comments about this perfume. On others, I've seen that the stormy quality creates such a commanding watery essence, how I wish I could find that with my experience. Perhaps it just needs a long rest? (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one specific note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Necromancy (Listed Notes: Datura metel, ceremonial incense, funeral flowers, benzoin resin, ancient spirit boards, oud) -a method of divination involving communication with the dead - typically used as a means to foretell future events through a Medium via spirit board, but can also include the practice of physically raising the deceased's body, with or without the intention of bringing one back from the dead. In the vial: INCENSE, RESIN and a FLORAL peeking behind everything. There is also an unidentifiable mineral-like note with vanilla (now this may prove interesting). I'm not sure what to think, here we go... Applied: Here we go indeed and the lonely violins play in the background with beautiful melancholic chords while mists rise from the floor and waltz in front of a joined circle of bereaved. Positively inspiring and eerie, I have never encountered in any perfume a floral that is centre stage such as the one that amping on me from Necromancy, is it lilies? No, but it is gorgeously intoxicating, from another world and time and I must have a full bottle of this! I know I am rambling but this oil is just strangely haunting and the more it sits I'm just swept away to my favourite eras of history to study and read about. Coming back to this maddening world, I do get a distinct wisp of romantic vanilla (the ancient spirit boards?) and that unknown floral entwines with the incense that fades in and out every couple of hours. I never expected to fall for certain florals as I have with this collection. Brava Sixteen92! Pyromancy (Listed Notes: Green cardamom, fireplace embers, agarwood, smoked tea, white tobacco, hearth smoke) -a method of divination utilizing fire, smoke, or flames In the vial: A GREEN SAVOURY HEAT. It is so well-blended, I can't wait to try this oil on. Applied: I'm not going to lie, Pyromancy makes me hungry and it took me a couple minutes when I first tried this creative scent potion to figure out why; it smells exactly like a hot bowl of Campbell's Tomato Soup. I bet that wasn't what you thought you were going to ever read about an artisan perfume but there it is, my mind goes immediately to a peppery cup of classic soup with a metal spoon and I love it. I do find this fragrance entertaining on many levels (must also add it lasts well into the next afternoon and even stays noticeable after a shower) and I know others have chai tea on their minds but my wonky chemistry has turned this pyro into a delicious winter or rainy day staple and I will be purchasing a full bottle. Yes, I'm strange if you haven't figured that out by now haha. Join me and try this wonder! Vials: Witches of the Silver Screen/Halloween 2018 (to be released September 24th along with a revisit to Fall 2017 and a Halloween Greatest Hits Collection) We Are The Weirdos, Mister Welcome to Burkittsville Formula 86 Really Most Sincerely Dead I Be The Witch Of The Wood One Scent at a Time We Are The Weirdos, Mister (Listed Notes: Dragon's blood resin, cleansing white sage, snuffed-out candles, spell books, metal and ash, dusty tarot cards) -Inspired by The Craft (1996) In the vial: Crushed SAGE, DRAGON'S BLOOD and timeworn LEATHER. There is also something "fizzy" that resides in this combination of dark notes. Applied: First off, hands down one of greatest names for a perfume ever (and such an underrated movie)... So which note will dominant on me this time? Tricky, tricky, tricky. It's sage rising above the leather and amping to create a herbaceous lemon that absorbs the other components and I'm smelling root beer? Well, this is a surprise and that soda quality stays longer than I thought. I usually despise the aroma of root beer or anything resembling it but this perfume is giving credit to its name and is definitely different and out of the box. I don't know where I would wear We Are The Weirdos, Mister but I'll sure find a place. Welcome to Burkittsville (Listed Notes: Ancient stone, raven feather, forest floor, tangled roots, dark water, pitch-black musk) -Inspired by The Blair Witch Project (1999) In the vial: Haha my friend's worst nightmare DIRT glorious realistic FOREST FLOOR, BLACK ROOTS from the EARTH. For me, this is walking into the hollow on a magnificent dreary day, not a soul around and all you can hear is a lonely caw of a crow and ancient trees creaking with the cold wind (can you tell I'm already planning on getting a 10ml bottle as soon as possible?) Applied: My work colleague who I have slowly converted into a perfume oil collector like myself always asks me "why do you want to smell like dirt and leaves"? Honestly, I don't have an answer but I want more of it! Here we have the darkest forest fragrance you could imagine, it is akin to Lycanthrope (which has been my personal anti-anxiety talisman scent for many months now) but where in Lycanthrope I feel oddly protected when I dab it on, Welcome to Burkittsville makes me feel I should fear the shadows because something is watching, following and waiting for me to turn around. It stares from the surrounding trees and the blackest of ponds where sunlight never touches or the moon. Overall an amazing atmospheric which I will wear with a sinister little smile. Formula 86 (Listed Notes: Rice powder, sugar cane, warm caramel, heliotrope, tonka bean, dark chocolate) -Inspired by The Witches (1990) Also a novel by Roald Dahl In the vial: Coming from someone who watched this dark fantasy film (plus read the book) so many times the rental place just had the tape waiting behind the counter when they saw I was in the store, Formula 86 makes my inner child jump and reach as I'm tempted for just one little lick of the vial. This is decadent DARK CHOCOLATE and true to description WARM drizzled CARAMEL. It's unapologetically sticky sweet and for those that are familiar with You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! and have been waiting for its return, you may want to pay attention to this new release. Applied: When I first dabbed (okay I slathered and I enjoyed it and I even quoted Anjelica Huston's classic line: "Vitches of Inkland..." when I put it on) I removed my shoes (sorry no wig or gloves this time) and allowed the dark chocolate that smells like it is directly from the most costly sweet shop in Europe to take me away. It was a heavenly few minutes but then my cursed chemistry took that treat away, ah but not all was lost because the warm caramel I mentioned earlier cascaded over my senses and my love heliotrope created more creaminess. I'm sorely tempted to get Formula 86 in the hair detangler but I don't have an infinite bank account so between You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! and Formula 86, I think I'm going to gift the chocolate and shortbread with chimney smoke delight to myself as soon as it becomes available on Sixteen92 for the holidays. That won't stop me though from slathering on Formula 86 in the meantime and doing some really bad impressions of the movie and book lines (my poor coworkers and patients). Really Most Sincerely Dead (Listed Notes: Breadseed poppy, warm coconut milk, honeyed benzoin, black licorice) -Inspired by The Wizard of Oz (1939) Also a novel by L. Frank Baum (The Wonderful Wizard of Oz) In the vial: LICORICE, WARM BAKED MUFFINS topped with HONEY and a scant drizzle of COCONUT MILK. It's a baker's delight to behold and here is another I could drink the vial. Applied: I'm so giddy I have finally found perfumes based on so many of my childhood memories of books and entertaining films (all I am missing are fragrances inspired by Ursula and The Sanderson Sisters then my list of witchy dreams would be complete). Okay getting back to this vial, when applied I'm graced by warm licorice that comes forward along with a delectable honey (Sixteen92 could sell me a single note of their honey and I'd purchase everything they offered for life). I've never had the pleasure to have poppy seed in oil form but it really seems to like me and it morphs into a baked good that is noticed and questioned about over the wall at my workplace. There must be some sort of magic also mixed in as the coconut isn't amping to create that dreaded "beachy" realm I leave to my colleague who can't get enough of that note with her collection. It is about this point where I'm thinking of getting a hair detangler (plus whipped soap and anything else Really Most Sincerely Dead comes in) that everything disappears for several minutes then the scent flickers in and out bringing to mind, the magic green crystal ball that the wicked witch watched the land of Oz with. My pocketbook may sigh in relief of that happening but I'm yelling for that image to come back and stay. I Be The Witch Of The Wood (Listed Notes: Wheat and straw, dark forest, poisoned apple, chimney smoke, fur, blood) -Inspired by The VVitch (2015) In the vial: Fallen APPLES, SMOKE, ASH, DRAGON'S BLOOD and EARTH. Oh yes, I think we have another full bottle worthy perfume here. Applied: This is exactly the scent potion I was hoping for when I purchased The Bell Witch last year, sadly that bottle still only turns to sweet tobacco and fading moss with not much of a creepy vibe to it (turning slightly soapy on me in fact) but I Be The Witch Of The Wood takes all that and more to the awesome extreme to present one disturbing mixture I can't pull my nose away from. On initial application, I get realistic smoke and ash akin to what Sarah Good is known for except there is no gourmand quality to be found in the black heart of I Be The Witch Of The Wood (even with the apple that smells it is one cold night away from being deadly and decaying). As this dries further the apple quickly exits and the dragon's blood replaces it amping the most along with the smoke (for those who love Baba Yaga meet her insidious sister scent). As much as I would love a full bottle now, I am okay with the generously sized vial which I think will last me until next year when I Be The Witch Of The Wood returns. Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Sixteen92
sixteen92.com/ Thoughts: -Adding another chapter to my book of perfume discoveries or self-realizations and this one is titled LYCANTHROPE. Joining the pantheon of treasured oils, this particular bottle allows my romantic imagination to run wild in a moonlit forest and believe me I don't want to leave. Weaving its mysterious magic on my senses and into my dreams, simply this is a fragrance that deserves the highest praise and is too good to not share. Brava Sixteen92! One scent at a time: Lycanthrope (Listed Notes: Monkshood, warm fur, tuber, elm bark, Artemisia, Galbanum, weathered rock and silver moonlight) *A special limited edition fragrance that won't return until September 13, 2019. In the bottle: Realistic RAIN DRENCHED MOSS, STONE, DAMP BARK and an impression you are being watched from the partially moonlit shadows. Applied: Whoever said Friday the 13th was unlucky obviously doesn't collect perfume oils or ever had the opportunity to come across Lycanthrope by Sixteen92 because this is a scent masterpiece and a lucky find indeed! You know an oil is exceptional when you close your eyes and are immediately swept away to another place or time and Lycanthrope is one of the most transporting bottles I currently own. Scent is suggestive (in many ways) but for me, this opens with wet stones against ancient trees and you can hear the rumble of thunder in the distance and the leaves rustling with the stirred wind. For those of us who love nothing more than staring up at the moon late at night and feeling some kind of unexplainable pull, this perfume can serve as the perfect backdrop. As this oil dries, the darkness of the notes intensify and it reminds me of The Castle of the Hill (also by Sixteen92) but Lycanthrope is strangely warmer and more inviting. There are also additional mineral and green notes that lurk within this unique fragrance which become noticeable at certain times and for some reason, I feel protected whenever I wear this. I like to think this special oil as a talisman against negative thoughts and I seek it out if I feel apprehensive or need a restful day (or night) of sleep. It really is a soothing almost pensive blend for anyone who favours enigmatic atmospherics. sixteen92.com/collections/limited-editions Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Vials: The Bottling Room Every Frozen Heart Four Fifty-One It's History. It's Poetry. Only Children Weep One Scent at a Time: The Bottling Room (Listed Notes: Sterile glass, electricity, copper, hot light bulbs, lab-grown flowers, synthetic greenery) -Inspired by Brave New World by Aldous Huxley In the vial: A puzzling collage that is reading as "Invisible CLEAN". Even after a year of trying to train my nose with over a hundred different perfume oils, The Bottling Room has me completely baffled when attempting to single out its notes (I've tried several times). It honestly just smells like a clean hospital clinic bathed in bright light. Applied: If you desire the ultimate science or medical-themed perfume or want something out of the box but completely unobtrusive The Bottling Room needs to be on your vanity. When it is applied I detect a paper-like note reminding me of chart paper attached to a clipboard. I don't get any metal or greenery as it dries, I just receive a "sterile polished glass on top of scattered paper" from this oil. As nifty and inoffensive as this perfume is, I don't think this is something I will reach for unfortunately. Please don't misunderstand it's astounding that the scent artist can create such a realistic fragrance and I'm sure someone out there will go over the moon about this beyond unique atmospheric but oddly I don't want to smell like my workplace. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Every Frozen Heart (Listed Notes: Skin musk, faded perfume, citrus blossom, wormwood, empty streets) -Inspired by Tropic of Cancer by Henry Miller In the vial: WORMWOOD and FADED then amped CITRUS PERFUME. It's a bit overwhelming and I recommend waving the applicator wand before first smelling it. After a long rest, this perfume strangely projects a "coldness" as well. How do these scentcrafters do that? Applied: Here is another where the scent medley may not be for everyone. At first, this oil triggers my sensitive head but the strong citrus perfume (reminding me of ones from High School) gradually fades to an icy pop that stays very close to my skin with the "coldness" I mentioned earlier and a hint of powder. It definitely fits into the summer realm of fragrance but again I don't think I would reach for this very often but am very grateful to have another different scent to add to my collection. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Four Fifty-One (Paper, kerosene, ash, night sky, burned flowers) -Inspired by Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury In the vial: Ah the vial I have been most anticipating but dreading at the same time as I have really bad memories of stand up kerosene heaters that were popular when I was a child (they always triggered the mother of all headaches with me and that distinct smell latched on anyone for days and I couldn't be around them without wanting to retch). Here we go, I detect...OIL LAMPS, ASH and PAPER. There is also that hidden NIGHT AIR impression Sixteen92 excels at present as well. No headaches to report at the moment, please let my skin chemistry behave. Applied: When first applied there is a wet ash with a splash of kerosene but this isn't the horrific caustic chemical scent composition that still haunts my nightmares. It smells more like old-fashioned oil kept in oil lamps (my Father, Uncles and Grandfathers were all coal miners) and it sorta reminds me of when one of them would step into the house carrying that oily dust chemical smell with them. That traditional oil lamp combination fades as it dries and I amp burnt paper, ash and the night air notes which leaves me wanting autumn more than summer. I really like this perfume and I'm happy to say not one twinge of a headache while I wear this unique fragrance. I will be reaching for Four Fifty-One at the end of summer as it gets me in the mood for chilly rainy nights and staring up into the heavens. It's History. It's Poetry. (Listed Notes: Tobacco, whisky, polished wood, typewriter ink, city sidewalks, carousel lights in the rain) -Inspired by The Catcher in the Rye by J. D. Salinger In the vial: PIPE TOBACCO and INK. I've never smelled whiskey but there is a note in the back that could be alcohol but I mostly get the shredded tobacco from a pouch with an iron accord mixture. It's a surprisingly sophisticated fragrance. Applied: I almost forgot how much I adore the scent of good tobacco as it is such a nostalgic and mysterious thing. Here is another vial I can place among my "another place and time" oils as this first transports me to the doors of the smoking room on a majestic ship during the early 20th century. It's such a gentleman's blend with a hint of caramel sweetness but is still wearable for a woman and as this dries further my imagination conjures the vision of a pant-suited authoress penning her memoirs while on the shelf her late husband's pipe sits and rain is hitting the window pane. Not your typical everyday scent but It's History. It's Poetry. is another keeper. Only Children Weep (Sweet tea, azalea, red clay, rhubarb, dry wood, cement) -Inspired by To Kill A Mockingbird by Harper Lee In the vial: Oh wow this is lovely! Right away I get the SWEET TEA with tart FRUIT and dry EARTH. I guess I saved the best perfume for last again (although the last two were unexpected keepers). Only Children Weep is summer in a vial, it's reading bright and playful. Applied: Here we have a delightful atmospheric that brings to mind a cold glass of sweet tea being reached for by a child with sticky strawberry rhubarb jam-stained hands while a thunderstorm rumbles in the distance. As this fragrance dries the dry earth (red clay) note becomes more pronounced and continues the story of a summer thunderstorm building and a gust of wind stirs the dusty ground. I can almost hear wind chimes clinking softly and the hum of hummingbirds darting among the azaleas while I smell this. Out of all the vials that were in this Banned Book Collection, Only Children Weep is the one perfume I will wear for work with no hesitancy and it is the only fragrance that lasted into the next afternoon with almost a patchouli note leaving me last to enjoy. Perhaps not this year but next summer I may pick up a 6ml bottle and I think I should research more about rhubarb noted perfumes and find another to accompany this vial in my summer cache. Combined Thoughts: For my first The Circle collection, everything definitely surprised and put my nose to the test. I guess I failed with The Bottling Room but I found myself reaching for Four-Fifty One, It's History. It's Poetry. and Only Children Weep. Those final three told curious scent stories, brought some nostalgia and captured my imagination while sadly Every Frozen Heart only gave me a headache and I don't think I will be returning to that vial (but maybe it only needs more aging). I still applaud the creative mind that blended all these fragrances with its overall dystopian/innocence lost and coming of age connection and I eagerly look forward to August when the Fall Collection is to be unveiled (I don't think dominant florals or "clean" notes are for me, I'm a lady who reaches for more of earthy noted with creepy atmosphere or wistful and gourmand blends so fingers crossed those will appear in my next box--I wonder what the fall theme will be? Dark legendary queens? Gothic novels? Devious poisons and herbs? Well whatever it is, it is bound to make me smile (I mean who doesn't love Autumn and Halloween?) sixteen92.com Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Vials: Enfant Terrible Le Demi-Monde Les Fleurs du Mal Montmartre Serres d'Auteuil One Scent at a Time: Enfant Terrible (Listed Notes: Apricot, papaya, honeysuckle blossom, clover honey, blond woods) In the vial: APRICOT, HONEY and LADIES POWDER it dances between youthful and chalky to mature and powdery. This vial had a nice long rest (almost a month) and it made a world of difference from when it first arrived. Applied: I'm still training my nose and Enfant Terrible is proving to be quite the unexpected puzzle, more of a honey note comes through at first versus apricot or papaya but I can clearly detect a juicy backdrop being present. There is something powdery but it can also read as chalky and only goes back to powdery if I take my time and concentrate on the notes. As this perfume dries the honeysuckle makes an entrance along with "green" honey and blond woods (all adding more positives toward my decision to keep this fragrance in my collection). For a perfume with a name that roughly translates to "terrible child," it's surprisingly delicate and more aging will only benefit this vial. I like this fragrance oddly and can see myself reaching for it when I want something slightly different but still wearable for the workplace setting. Le Demi-Monde (Listed Notes: Gardenia petal, Mailette lavender, oakmoss, soft suede opera gloves, chilled champagne) FRAGRANCE IS TO BE Featured in a special edition article coming soon Les Fleurs du Mal (Listed Notes: Jonquil, night orchid, turned earth, cold stone, wild musk) In the vial: One of the most gorgeous atmospherics it has ever been my pleasure to encounter in the indie fragrance world! It's COLD STONE and a bouquet DAFFODILS with DIRT sprinkled on the petals, this dear readers is SPRING and the scent I have been searching for! It's melancholy, nostalgic and perfect for a rainy night. Applied: I am one happy lady right now and I bid you adieu for a time as I can't believe the scent I have been searching for actually exists and I will go about my day enjoying...wait...no...it's dryer sheets! My nose may love the incredible properties of jonquils (daffodils) but my chemistry turns that note from nature to laundry items (this is the second time now from two different houses of fragrances so it must be me). Admittedly the cold stone element (with less noticeable dirt) is still present but it is like an expensive dryer sheet has fallen onto a cold stone path. With a sad heavy heart, I must say Les Fleurs du Mal is not for me. I'm not having very good luck with this collection so far but call me stubborn this vial is staying in my spring cache (maybe I can sprinkle it on my pillows or find another use for it or perhaps I could try to make a barrier between my skin and this oil...or...I don't know anymore.) (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). ***THIS FRAGRANCE IS TO BE REVISTED IN SPRING 2019 Montmartre (Listed Notes and Descriptions: Feathered fans, sugared absinthe, silk stockings, faded perfume, new lipstick, warm skin, the smoky haze of hot stage lights) In the vial: LIPSTICK and LICORICE with a creamy MINT-like note. Not going to lie, I like this and it smells oddly familiar as it reminds me of Telepathy and has a touch of nostalgia with the top notes. Applied: I saw others compare Montmartre to Bruise Violet and I can see where that could come from, the lipstick is unmistakable resembling the scandalously evoking perfume but for me that's where the similarity stops because there is a creaminess draping over the lipstick accord and for a time the licorice with mint is more dominant on me. As it dries further the lipstick note fades and I am left with something completely unexpected which is reminding me of a breath of thin mint cookies (I have no idea how the above-listed notes create this familiar and playful end result but I'm in love). This is another perfume that stays close to my skin and I can see myself gladly wearing this when I have a craving for a not so obvious dessert-like fragrance (and when I need to just lose myself in a comforting distraction). Serres d'Auteuil (Listed Notes: Spring cherry blossom, pink pepper, Grasse rose, hothouse ferns, warm sun, sweet heliotrope) In the vial: What we have here is another hopeful favourite. This is a strangely beautiful atmospheric that is a perfect scent translation of its name (Greenhouses of Auteuil) with an amazing realistic humid element (I won't get too excited until I apply it). Applied: ...and Ladies and Gentlemen we have just found the best fragrance in this collection! Serres d'Auteuil is a harmonic and poetic scent medley of flora and warm atmosphere that I can't tear myself away from. Sixteen92 really loves to pull the unexpected and this comforting natural smelling blend is like solitude in the greenhouse where you can just ignore the outside noisy world and get back to beauty, rejuvenation and reflection. Right away I am welcomed with a peppery green note that becomes sweeter with creaminess (that must be the heliotrope that is amping as it dries) and it seems my chemistry wants to sincerely apologize for ruining the previous hours of trying vials because Serres d'Auteuil is only getting better with a now introduced vanilla note along with the magnificent greenery staying centered creating an absolutely sublime experience all around the clock (lasting well into the next day). I may have to suspend my annoying price cap and splurge on a 10ml bottle of this marvel (I wish this shop had bath bombs or melts, this scent would be perfect to relax in). Combined Thoughts: When I heard the theme for the Spring 2017 collection was inspired by turn-of-the-century Paris and the Belle Époque period I was expecting something completely obvious with cabaret, wine and scandalous red hot romance mixed casually with powder and poetry. I believe sometimes I can become easily distracted by flashy topics and lose sight of what an era really represented. La Belle Époque was a time of achievements and optimism (these were the years before the Great War destroyed so much for so many), not immoral gimmicks (although alot of that supposedly happened during that era and it's all you see promoted on the silver screen when mentioned) it was about finding beauty in the everyday and trying to better the world with different ideas. This spring collection represents that with more of a garden atmospheric twirl of scents, I'm guessing mirroring the idea of new beginnings (perfect for the season don't you think?) Ultimately this is someone's art and although I didn't quite understand at first I do have a better view now and even though my chemistry basically worked against everything I wanted to love from the listed notes, I still enjoyed the completed message these vials held and would like to either try them again or find different ways to use the oils. I will also seriously consider getting a bottle of Serres d'Auteuil and tuck Montmartre in my desk at work. Le Fleurs de Mal may go in a scent locket and believe it or not I do enjoy smelling the vial or placing a tiny dab of Le Demi-Monde on a handkerchief when I am reading about anything set during the Gilded Age and Enfant Terrible is still aging but may also go in a scent locket as well. In the end, all keepers and I can't wait to see what other themes from Sixteen92 will be arriving at my door soon. sixteen92.com Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Vials: Act I: Der Hölle Rache Act II: E Lucevan le Stelle Act III: Habanera Act IV: Il Dolce Suono Act V: Mein Herr Marquis One Scent at a Time: Act I : Der Hölle Rache kocht in meinem Herzen (Hell's Vengeance Boils In My Heart / The Queen Of The Night aria) Die Zauberflöte (W.A. Mozart, 1791) (Listed Notes: Black vanilla pod, fire, hot metal, night queen tulip, blood orange rind, opium) In the vial: ORANGE, METAL/ASH, VANILLA and a swirl of CARAMEL. This is such a dark enticing fragrance that is projecting an evil queen's plans beautifully. Applied: Der Hölle Rache opens with a sweetness of orange slashed by a glint of hot metal and my skin chemistry and nose both approve. Here is another perfume that is a unique wonder as it smells truly hot (for those who bake, think a perfectly heated oven, the mixture of heat and metal that awaits your carefully prepared pan, dish or sheet) on me, the metal note and vanilla with a tempered zest of orange are amping the most and I'm loving every second. Perhaps on others, this fragrance is completely gourmand with no bite but I'm applauding the atmosphere coming through as this oil dries (I find it simply fascinating how much scent and imagination work together to create a compelling story). Hours later the twirls of opium smoke and caramel arrive along with the compliments. The final call goes to the realistic metal note as it stays throughout the shifting of eerie sweetness and hot fire and lasts on me until the next day (with perhaps some patchouli thrown in for good measure?) I can see myself reaching for Der Hölle Rache on those days and nights when I want to feel empowered and not be crossed or questioned. Act II : E Lucevan Le Stelle (And The Stars Were Shining) Tosca (Giacomo Puccini, 1900) (Listed Notes: Dark earth, night gardenia, starlit cobblestone, ambergris, galbanum, tree moss) ***THIS FRAGRANCE IS TO BE Featured in a special edition article coming soon Act III : Habanera / L’amour est un Oiseau Rebelle (Love Is A Rebellious Bird) Carmen (Georges Bizet, 1875) (Listed Notes: Aldehydes, guava, bergamot flower, water hyacinth, sparkling jasmine, wild clover) In the vial: Sparkling BERGAMOT, FRUIT and SUNSHINE! Just joking, no sun do shine but this is a burst of headiness I can't pull my nose away from and I must try this on now...well maybe after a couple more quick sniffs. It is so good in the vial alone. Applied: Excuse me as I do some embarrassing chair dancing and hair whipping while typing this rambling summary as Habanera is such a happy flirtatious fragrance that I know I will be wearing out as much as possible, oh how my other bottles and vials will grow so jealous and feel neglected. I said before I didn't want to compare other house of fragrances' creations with one another but I must say that Habanera ranks right up there with Echoed Ecstasy by Alkemia Perfumes as my favourite inspired celebration scenes somehow captured in a vial/bottle. While Echoed Ecstasy is ginger ale or champagne (depending on the day and company) with realistic strawberry and a swaying of floral in the background, Habanera is equally refreshing bringing to mind perrier or la croix sparkling mineral water with an energized sashay of bright bergamot/citrus and puff of powder on the dry-down. Both perfumes awaken my senses and allow me to sing out of key without a care in the world! Act IV : Il Dolce Suono (The Sweet Sound / Lucia's Mad Scene aria) Lucia di Lammermoor (Gaetano Donizetti, 1835) (Listed Notes: Dried petals, cathedral incense, polished wood, ambroxan, white narcissus) In the vial: INCENSE and WOOD. This is a true somber combination that is also peaceful but with an edge hiding just in the shadows. Applied: After going a little silly over Habanera I feel the need to settle down or go to a quiet place and Il Dolce Suono sends me right back to sitting in the church of my youth. Sixteen92 continues to astound me as they bottled the presence of holy walls of confession and reflection incredibly well with this perfume. I can detect the incense-infused smoke from a swinging thurible, the polished wood as you kneel and are surrounded by blessed icons. It is so realistic that I can easily imagine the scene Il Dolce Suono is set and clearly remember some special memories and voices that help me through some cold days of doubt. Act V : Mein Herr Marquis (My Lord Marquis / Adele's Laughing Song) Die Fledermaus (Johann Strauss II, 1874) (Listed Notes: Violet macarons, silk tulle, pearlescent powder, orris root, heliotrope) In the vial: Delicate MACARONS, LIPSTICK/POWDER (Violets). Right now Mein Herr Marquis is a less brash quieter sister scent of Bruise Violet. I'm getting more demure bakery than scandalous old Hollywood which makes me think of day and night versions of the popular award-winning perfume. Applied: Here is another graceful but playful atmospheric so let my vivid imagination in collaboration of this delightful creation known as Mein Herr Marquis take us away. On opening, I get an application of classic beauty products and near at hand on a side table we have a specially arranged display of macarons for the rouged lady but ah ah ah! She must keep up appearances and fool those around her so as a distraction she inches closer to the table while gently fluffing her tulle skirt but at the same time grabs a fancy macaron. A snap of a fan with one gloved hand hides her little secret as she discreetly chews and another swirl of ladies dusting powder is released with each new flutter of the fan along with a stray crumb of almond sweetness lingering in the air. It is just at this point in time when you may be enjoying the previous scenes but also thinking the experience is over, Mein Herr Marquis begins to unexpectedly resemble a familiar favourite which is Mercy Lewis with heliotrope coming more forward (even adding a drop of honey to tempt those further) to finish out the night and keep you coming back for another visit to this out of time and place fragrance. Combined Thoughts: Each one of these vials was a performance that deserves a round of applause as every perfume captured a scene and produced a mood (even E Lucevan Le Stelle tells a commanding scent story albeit one that had a note my nose just can't find love for). As for encores, I will have to start putting a little something away in my pocketbook for Habanera. While Der Hölle Rache I may wait for (Resurrection 2019) and I would like to see how Mein Herr Marquis ages. A couple scents lasted longer on me than others (Il Dolce Suono versus Habanera) so for those oils the extremely generously sized vials are all I need at the moment and the others which didn't last on my skin until the next day may work better in different products (perhaps even perform better in my curls). Overall, this collection inspired by Opera Arias took the excitement and anticipation levels to the stars and I eagerly await my first package from The Circle. sixteen92.com Sixteen92
sixteen92.com/ Full Bottles: Telepathy Baba Yaga Vials: Mercy Lewis La Llorona Blood & Honey Combined Thoughts: These strangely beautiful fragrances may not seem to fit a single category to anyone else and you are right they each have different note profiles from floral to a little gourmand with an edge but they all have a mysterious depth about them and changed my mind about exploring different combinations of components and inspirations taken from nature, legends and history that all can be somehow placed in a vial or bottle by independent fragrance mistresses and masters. Absolutely every one of these perfumes are too good not to share and deserve a treasured/featured label. Brava Sixteen92! One scent at a time: Telepathy *from the Winter 2017 collection (Listed Notes: Winter narcissus, tonka bean, immortelle flower, sleet, ozone, white amber) In the vial/bottle: Crystallized MINT with a hidden green note underneath. This is a combination that is allowing my mind to clear and fits the concept and name perfectly as a "distant feeling". Applied: *This is truly a unique perfume and I had to hurry to jot down each time something morphed and surprised me with Telepathy. This exceptional fragrance starts out a clear frozen green (resembling mint) with a slight peppery note underneath that was completely hidden in the vial and the overall impression this perfume gives is marked as: "icy and like glass" (think standing in a secret Victorian winter garden that is blanketed with snow but there is life underneath the white and glass). I've reached for this vial and bottle throughout this never-ending winter/pseudo spring and each time I can detect the ozone adding to the seasonal mood and I don't know how these mistresses and masters of olfactory magic do it but you can smell the actual frost on the petals in this secret garden. The heat from my skin seems to make this scent potion come alive and it reveals so many new facets. Hours later the white amber, tonka course through and get my full attention once again as I'm working and this goes from a frigid graceful snow queen quality to another refined stately essence and stays until the next morning with a faint warmed honey note I don't want to pull my nose away from (I simply adore Sixteen92's honey notes and want to purchase every perfume they have that has that component hidden or is freely displayed on the note list). Absolutely a haunting floral composition that transitions from winter to the wick of spring. Mercy Lewis *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Heliotrope, honeyed tea, rosehips, sugared almond, creamy sandalwood, milky vanilla) *this was a bonus sample that appeared in my second order with this amazing house of fragrance (thank you so much Claire!) In the vial: Sweet ALMONDS, VANILLA, TEA and SANDALWOOD. It's so hard to concentrate as each time I open a vial or bottle from any favoured house of fragrance my imagination races and I forget my intentions of training my nose to pick up different individual notes and only want to slather myself with these types of perfumes. This one, in particular, is a sweet indulgent inviting vial that I can't wait to try. Applied: Marking another fragrance down to get a full bottle of as soon as possible. Right away Mercy Lewis turns to almond vanilla buttercream on my skin but it's strangely not all gourmand (or too young smelling) and it feels just "right" on me. This is a wonderful example of inspired olfactory art that captures home comforts (served on a tray) and has a power of persuasion all its own just like the unassuming figure from history whose false accusations sent several innocents to their tragic deaths, but then again who wouldn't believe a well-mannered smiling servant girl when asked for the truth? Getting back to this superb scent experience, the vanilla along with honeyed tea and grounding sandalwood are blended so expertly and here is another oil that is very work appropriate (the compliments keep on coming whenever I wear this out), a seasonal transitioning wonder and has changed my mind on a note (almonds) that I always thought as a death note on me (thanks to a certain Bath and Body shop or all the years of alcohol drenched lies I have endured from commercial products). Believe it or not, almonds don't smell like rancid things that give you stomach turning headaches, in the right patient hands almonds can actually smell like the perfect garnish to a dessert or unexpected featured perfumes. La Llorona *from the General Catalogue at the time of purchase but has been discontinued and will only be found on the Resurrection sales listing coming January 2019 according to a recent announcement (Listed Notes: Bulgarian and Egyptian rose absolute, pink and white pepper, pink grapefruit, wisteria, cashmere wood, pale amber) In the vial: GRAPEFRUIT and PEPPER (peppery lemonade anyone?) What a great way to wake up the senses heralding something is coming and forget the horrible weather outside (I swear 20 minutes ago I saw green on the ground and my lilacs trying to bud). Applied: Hello spring I finally found you today! Oh I love La Llorona and am saddened this gorgeous creation has been discontinued. I mentioned peppery lemonade when I first opened the vial but the rose that appears after a few minutes blending with pepper and grapefruit is hands down the best true to life "kissed by morning dew roses on the bush" scents I have ever had the pleasure to find. THIS is how a rose perfume should smell (once again the big stores lied and made us accept what they presented in plastic bottles)! It's invigorating but at the same time also touches brilliantly on its inspiration about a legend of a forlorn ghost with a distinct delicate but mysterious quality as the cashmere wood and pale amber slowly surfaces. This is a fragrance that is approachable but also carries a secret when someone gets close...As much as I adore La Llorona, I must admit that it does sadly fade faster than other perfumes in my collection and needs an application of fixative (Alkemia's Perfume Fixative aids nicely) to delight me more than a few hours. That one unfortunate negative aside, I still had to have a full bottle and was lucky enough to purchase one from Sixteen92's site before it was moved to the limited edition vault but I am also hoping that I can get La Llorona in the hair detangler soon (or can figure out how to add it in a bottle of unscented detangler) but if need be I can apply this oil to my locks alone and happily walk around in a halo of pepper, amber and magnificently executed floral. Blood & Honey *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Blood orange, wildflower honey (vegan), pale amber, honeysuckle) *this was a bonus sample that appeared in my first order (thank you so much Claire) and is inspired by the Jazz Age. In the vial: Three classic beauties: HONEYSUCKLE, ORANGE and HONEY. It matches perfectly to spring/summer in the 1920's but is ultimately a very memorable timeless feminine scent combination. Applied: This is such a channelling fragrance as the first name that came to mind when I put this on was Zelda Fitzgerald and in turn, I must mention Daisy Fay Buchanan (the character Zelda is strongly believed to have inspired in The Great Gatsby), it's dazzling, fascinating and even a little extravagant. Once again Sixteen92 surprises me as Blood & Honey captivates my imagination and works with some unseen power on my chemistry because the orange and honey are staying and not turning waxy (I must note that this perfume lasts 12+ hours on me). The honeysuckle is just lovely, the amber light but romantic and I would love to own the supernatural hair serum in this fragrance for summer because I would be a beautiful little fool whenever I wore it. Baba Yaga *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Fiery dragon’s blood incense, sweet woodsmoke, dried herbs, dripping candle wax, forest dirt) In the vial: I'm not sure what I'm smelling it's a collection of ancient mystery, it's not smokey and it's not floral or spicy it has a scent category all its own. Applied: Right away there is a sharpness or medicinal quality but that quickly is swept away and becomes something completely unexpected which is powdery bubbles with a hint of candle wax and maybe rose? Perhaps this perfume taps into and conforms to your secret comforts and yes powder or any rose and pretty rainbow shifting bubbles from a wand are three of my secret forgotten comforts (judge as you will but you could have entertained me for days as a child if you gave me a bottle of bubbles to blow into the winds and the powder and rose reminds me of a missed loved one), the candle wax is just an unfortunate thing my chemistry always latches onto but is not overly noticeable at the moment and is not that bad. Hours later I am finally getting the earthiness and something is definitely reminding me of a soft rose (finally realized after wearing this perfume and comparing it to others it must be the dragon's blood). It's actually quite lovely not scary or a sharp scent. I'm always on the hunt for scents that can help me fall asleep in the morning after bracing the long night hours and this Bone Mother has been a surprising giver of pleasant vivid dreams. This and The Wild Atlantic Way by Alkemia Perfumes are the two bottles I have been wearing the most after chaotic work nights and whether I feel sentimental when I finally get in the door or desire a complete romantic escape, I know which perfect oil in my slowly growing collection to reach for. sixteen92.com Sixteen92
sixteen92.com/ Full Bottles: Borley Rectory The Primrose Path Vials: Nereids The Grass Harp Paper Moon One scent at a time: Borley Rectory *from the Resurrection 2018 sale (Listed Notes: Italian bergamot, cocao pod, smoked black tea, decayed woods, faded parchment, shadowy musk) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Let me go down memory lane for a minute. Years ago I used to frequent a coffee and pastry shop that had an eclectic theme of baroque, classical music, funky designed furniture and I couldn't wait to take my limited lunch break and lose myself in that combined theme that ran with gold angels perched in corners to big comfy chairs that welcomed you and charmed all. It was a hidden jewel and the place to be. Needless to say, I never wanted to leave but I reluctantly made myself go back somehow to the toxic soul-draining establishment up the street that held my paycheck (it's sad the only thing I miss from that terrible job was the coffee house down the street). It was only when there was one specialty treat (available only at the cusp of spring that was presented on a silver salver) in the form of a small dark chocolate molded rabbit with granules of earl grey tea sprinkled on top (one of the owners was a talented European pastry chef) that I risked being late and a dramatic write up (it was well worth it though). It was heaven and I still remember the delectable taste and that incredible scent of tempered Belgian dark chocolate and refined tea. I have yet to find a dessert so wonderful since but hopefully, I can stumble across that magical arrangement of notes again. Borley Rectory is calling to me with not only that possibility but is also inspired by haunted history (fingers crossed for a moody morphing scent for those days I just want to enjoy my own company but with a twist of gourmand), so this will be my first Resurrection choice from a unique house of fragrance that I absolutely can't get enough of. First Impression: Oh I can see cocoa collected on the sides and at the bottom of the bottle, visually this is surprisingly delightful as the cocoa settles in spots and adds a nice dingy touch (intentional or not) that creatively plays into the whole haunted and ghost theme and I will love displaying this bottle. In the bottle: HONEY, CHOCOLATE and MUSK. It reminds me of Blood & Honey but with chocolate and heavy musk. I'm not getting any hint of tea at the moment but I'm still liking this perfume but at the same time also concerned this may not be what I was initially looking for. Applied: Borley Rectory is a first for me, never have I yelled at my wrist "be creepy, not happy!" (thankfully no one was around to question my sanity and a warning to those who are thinking they are only exploring the world of perfume oils- you will do and say some crazy sounding things as you slide more down the hole- it can be quite the ride though so hold on and learn to laugh). I was hoping for underlying sinister but right now all I keep receiving is an aged house with spilt honey on the floor that may or not be haunted on a sunny day with an empty teacup displayed on the table. It's too happy and bright smelling if that makes sense. Oddly I still like it in other ways (it somehow goes into the spring realm of my collection but still fades quickly away from my skin for some reason) and as this ages, the shadowy musk is becoming slightly more apparent on application along with a toothsome sweetness and even though I was hoping for a bottle of memory lane with chocolate and earl grey, I will keep this and continue looking for that elusive combination in other bottles and vials. The Primrose Path *from the Resurrection 2018 sale (Listed Notes: Soaked earth, lichen, ancient oak roots, grass, water lily, heavy stone, a tangled garland of faded spring blooms) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Shakespeare my longtime love let me mix Browning to count and find different ways to announce to the world I read far too much, need to get out more and will never fit into this era. A bottle inspired by a tragic character from my favourite play you say Sixteen92? Please send it my way. I could never resist a perfume dedicated to Ophelia and the more I'm reading what other beyond satisfied perfume enthusiasts think about this work of scent art, I must have a bottle. In the vial: WET STONE, IVY, EARTH and faint florals (gardenia?) Applied: The more The Primrose Path is aging the more I'm falling under its ethereal spell. When the bottle first arrived there was something unexpectedly sweet coming through that made me sad but now it's more of a murky brook with a drifting garland of floral (no rosemary sadly, nor columbine, fennel, pansies, violets or rue but perhaps the stems of daisies are present?) during a spring shower. This is a haunting fragrance that is incredibly atmospheric and I can only think of the famous painting by Sir John Everett Millais ("Ophelia" that featured the stunner Elizabeth Siddal as the gorgeous model) while wearing this scent. I do wish there was a touch more earth present (and that odd sweetness would completely blend away as it seems to resurface the more this perfume dries) but overall this bottle was well worth the wait and deserves to be loved and praised. Nereids *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Surf & shoreline, driftwood, dried coconut shell, pistachio, sweet sea grasses, salt) *this was a bonus sample that appeared in my Spring Collection 2018 order (thank you so much Claire) In the vial: SALT, VANILLA, COCONUT and PISTACHIO. I have to admit, I would have never tried this alone and am extremely impressed by this vial and thankful for the opportunity to have this sample. Applied: That's it, I'm signing up for The Circle this year. Nereids is a perfect scent melded example of the exceptional talent from this house of fragrance and I need to stop being afraid to explore unfamiliar notes. This is such an approachable fragrance that would fit in with the workplace. Reading this perfume is inspired by Greek Mythology: "the fifty sea nymphs - goddesses of the sea, sand, rocks, waves and currents, and protectors of sailors and fishermen" and Sixteen92 captured and harnessed that concept and inspiration so brilliantly here. On me, Nereids turns to salt and coconut and vanilla ice cream. It's a peaceful scent that I think would garner a smile and a compliment or five. As it dries the salt actually amps and the wood comes more forward, so it is like you are sitting on a piece of driftwood as the water laps around you while enjoying the last of vanilla ice cream. I will be keeping this for summer and telling a friend who loves coconut and vanilla scents she needs to get a bottle and of course will be signing up for The Circle (the mysteries and inspirations of what may be waiting in those parcels are just too tempting to pass up). The Grass Harp *This fragrance has been discontinued and will only be available during the Resurrection sale (Listed Notes: Orange blossom, clover, hyacinth, ruby red grapefruit, sweet basil) What I was hoping for and what called to me: I saw an announcement that certain perfumes were soon to be removed from the General Catalogue and The Grass Harp has been on my list to sample for a few months now. With spring somewhere out there, the notes of hyacinth, orange blossom and sweet basil all sound so inviting and I must try this. In the vial: Freshly mowed CLOVER and a hint of GRAPEFRUIT waiting underneath. Another unexpected atmospheric that takes me right back this time to attempting cartwheels in the freshly mowed grass and looking for ladybugs in the dandelions. It's a very serene innocent fragrance. Applied: *The clover is incredibly realistic, so out of respect for my one colleague who is severely allergic to grass, I wore this when he wasn't in the building but that decision also worked out perfectly as that night fell on St. Patrick's Day and this scent was ideal for the occasion. On me, The Grass Harp opens with the clover but the basil also makes an appearance to add a slightly not quite minty or peppery mixing but it only deepens the clover making this even green smelling. You can't help but smile when wearing this perfume (I mean if you aren't sensitive to grass scents). All I can think as this dries is childish laughter as dozy bumblebees slowly buzz around and the summer sky is blue as can be overhead... Unfortunately, as time goes on though, the merriment stops because a soapy note comes forward the more The Grass Harp dries and it amps on my skin making me think of a specific dog shampoo. Let me be clear: it's NOT an unpleasant fragrance by any means and is undeniably a summer collaboration but I was really hoping for a continuation of nature with the hyacinth atleast making a cameo appearance or the orange blossom emerging eventually. Oh well, I think I would like The Grass Harp in an oil warmer or perhaps it will surprise me by summer. I will revisit this vial then but I must remember not to wear this around seasonal allergy sufferers. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Paper Moon *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Soft vanilla musk, benzoin, oakmoss, trailing ivy, peach blossom, rose ) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Paper Moon was another attempt to make myself believe spring was coming (or was here somewhere waiting atleast). The peach, vanilla and rose notes also called to me and I love Paper Moon was inspired by the 1920's so hopefully, this is another extravagant celebratory perfume for my collection. In the vial: PEACH, VANILLA and ROSE. Very feminine but also youthful. Perhaps a little more commercial but I can see why others recommend it as their choice picks. There is also something vintage about Paper Moon that keeps me smelling the vial so I am anxious to try this and hopefully we have another morphing wonder. Applied: Oh dear there is that odd note that keeps sticking out of The Primrose Path is it the trailing ivy that keeps attaching to my chemistry? (comparing the notes) Perhaps it is a hidden gardenia note? Ack, there's that sweetness amping again but I'm still optimistic and will keep wearing Paper Moon. In a few minutes time, this perfume thankfully settles and even warms up releasing a distinct peach and rose scent that is actually pretty. As I go about my day the sweetness returns bringing almost sickly sugariness in its wake which I was hoping would be eventually tempered by anything listed. I'm really not sure I like this vial, the roses and vanilla peek through but retreat as soon as I begin enjoying the experience leaving me sad. I think Paper Moon captures the bright young things of the 1920's with youthful frivolity and even flirtation but I'm an even older soul it seems who desires more and will have to sit this one out. (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). sixteen92.com Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ Combined Thoughts: After going from a golden Lannisteresque bombshell (or should I say wildfire?) to accidental brassy Tully and back over a span of several months, my hair needed some serious love and attention as it was dry, split ended and painfully knotting from the broken off ends. I am not a vain lady but when it comes to my locks, I can be let us just say "a little difficult and hard to please" and many hear me roar (okay I'm done promise). So suffice it to say, not any product or treatment will do. I must search out the best and I believe I finally found just that with my recent discovery of Sixteen92 and the SuperNatural Hair Serum. When I started As The Final Page Turns, I never thought I would be reviewing hair serum but dear readers this hair elixir works (it does wonders on my split ends not to mention frizz) smells absolutely divine, is a pampering gift that is too good not to share and reminds me of the lost past of harnessing elements from nature to heal, restore and improve all it touches. Having super long curly hair, a strange assortment of homemade concoctions (ever try Mayonnaise or vodka on your head? Not exactly a scent combination you want to walk around with) and ridiculously expensive nasty commercial products on my head over the years that just sat there with itching or a horrid chemical smell that lingered for days and left their marks on my delicate skin. Those days are thankfully over as my morning routine now consists of brushing out and dampening my tresses to receive 3 to 4 drops (paying special attention to the ends) from a carefully selected bottle (that corresponds and instantly lifts any dark mood and eases my mind after chaotic work nights). The softness and otherworldly shine that shows in the vanity mirror are unreal and scent that follows me to eased slumber is something I can never be without again (Brava and thank you Sixteen92). One scent at a time:
Frosted Gingerbread *from the 2017 Winter 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Warm gingerbread cookies with sugared vanilla frosting) In the bottle and impressions: In the bottle, this is buttery gingerbread and when applied the home baked quality amplifies with an almost boozy note that you can't help but inhale (I've been caught quite a few times just sitting at my computer losing all track of time just enjoying the warm comforting scent that stays on my long braid). You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! *from the 2017 Holiday Collection (Listed Notes: Spiced cocoa, firewood, bayberry, warm shortbread, ovaltine, buttered rum, deep snow) In the bottle and impressions: In the bottle, this is malted chocolate that is perfect to combat the stubborn blustery winds and ice that just won't go away. When ran through my curls this turns to chocolate shortbread with hints of bayberry and chimney smoke. I hope this fragrance comes back for the special seasonal releases or will be found listed in the 2019 Resurrection sale. Red Velvet Hot Chocolate *from the 2018 Resurrection Sale (Listed Notes: Dark chocolate, milk chocolate, red velvet cake accord, buttermilk whipped cream) In the bottle and impressions: This was a long-awaited treat and was totally worth the wait. In the bottle, gooey caramel and cocoa dusted cream cheese completely not what I was expecting but how could I not like this. When applied, oh that is when the scent magic begins as this morphs from mid to dark cocoa to luscious buttered rum. I guess this innocent hot chocolate has some extra ingredients and I love it even more for that. sixteen92.com Sixteen92
sixteen92.com/ Full Bottle: The Bell Witch Hair Serum: *You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! Vials: Salem *Mercy Lewis Bruise Violet *Telepathy I Saw Goody Proctor with the Devil One scent at a time: The Bell Witch *from the Fall Pt. 2 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Sweet cider barrels, orchard wood, blond tobacco leaf, cave and forest moss, glowing pumpkin, dry leaves, turned earth) What I was hoping for and what called to me: So here's a question: How many pumpkin or apple perfumes does one need? Answer: As many as she pleases. I can't get enough of those notes which is odd because I can only get my precious pumpkin scent potions to have any longevity while wearing them in my hair and then I can expect to smell like blessed pie, cake or a pumpkin patches for days. Apple notes fair better on my skin but again it wears better when I run a little through my curls. So why would I want to possibly set myself up for sorrow again? Because it's a fragrance based on THE BELL WITCH of course and the moss, dry leaves and turned earth are calling to me in the worst way and I can't ignore it. This perfume listing won't let me turn away from the screen. In the bottle: CIDER, TOBACCO and EARTH (Patchouli). Add another to the gourmand autumn cache, this is a savory fragrance it's simple yet perfectly strange. Applied: This scent takes some time to sneak up on you, at first it's pale cider with rustling leaves but as this dries I do get a little dirt covered pumpkin (like you lifted a pumpkin from the ground and the earth is lightly attached to the bottom as you carry it) with a bit of spice. It's not what you may expect but I'm finding Sixteen92 loves to pull the unexpected (but you MUST be patient to enjoy what can be in store), The Bell Witch borders between atmospheric with the earthy notes but also gourmand with an apple cider note so realistic that you look around for a jug then remember it's you that smells so delicious and familiar. On me, this stays very close to the skin as it dries further and then dies down to nothing just tobacco which is more masculine than I feel comfortable with (curses) and spits of spice and nature (which saves this). Perhaps this will age in time to cast a unique spell by October, I really want to love this (and I WILL wait for as long as it takes)! (**please remember everyone's skin chemistry is different and what my chemistry does with one note may not happen on someone else. That's the unique beauty of perfume oils, they react with everyone differently- please don't hesitate to try a sample of something if it interests you). Salem *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Damp leaves, church incense, Italian leather (*animal-friendly), dry birch woods, clove bud absolute, bonfire smoke) What I was hoping for and what called to me: Anyone that knows me wouldn't be surprised I was drawn to a perfume called Salem as I have quite the collection of dark history on my reading shelves, the subject of the 1692 Salem Witch Trials has a powerful fascinating pull all its own that has ensnared me since I was a child (who couldn't put her hand down when we finally got to learn about Salem so long ago; my poor teachers) and I need this fragrance. Everything about this is calling my name. In the vial: LEATHER, CLOVE and SMOKE. This is such a commanding scent combination, I'm a little afraid of it... but at the same time intrigued. Applied: Salem is listed as a unisex fragrance but I would be extremely interested to smell this on a man (and stay at his side or lean in more than may be proper for a lady to do so). This is a curious fragrance that is being reigned over at the moment by smoke and leather. It's not for the faint of heart and I can see why this was moved to the general catalogue, it's so different you don't know why you like this and again that doubt comes back but as this dries you are only more inclined to stay for a little bit longer as the dead leaves comes out with the incense (and some spiced smoke) to see how this plays out. *Mercy Lewis *from the Salem Collection (Listed Notes: Heliotrope, honeyed tea, rosehips, sugared almond, creamy sandalwood, milky vanilla) (To be a multi-feature article in the near future, if you need a honeyed transitional perfume for spring- look no further.) Bruise Violet *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Red lipstick accord, dusting powder, white iris, violet leaf, Damascus & Bulgarian rose, red grapefruit zest) *this was a bonus sample that appeared in my first order (thank you so much Claire) and was the winner of the 2017 Art + Olfaction Awards - Artisan. In the vial: LIPSTICK ACCORD, GRAPEFRUIT, ROSES and LEATHER? This scent medley dances between sophisticated and scandalous with an almost boozy note pressing everything listed above together. Applied: Absolutely there is something boozy in this (even smoky) but also something very Old Hollywood Glam about it as well (I keep envisioning a stunning starlet from that era who is no stranger to scandal in the tabloids sitting at her dressing vanity expertly repairing her smeared mascara and red lipstick while a few empty and full martini glasses are near at hand). The roses, dusting powder with violet (perhaps even a drop of plum?) and lipstick tempt my nose to linger but a tiny dab goes a long way and I'm not sure where I would wear this. I still like this perfume oddly, that vintage lipstick accord is simply gorgeous (absolutely realistic) so yes, I will keep Bruise Violet. *Telepathy *from the Winter 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Winter narcissus, tonka bean, immortelle flower, sleet, ozone, white amber) *(To be a multi-feature article and full bottle purchase in the near future, a haunting chilled winter floral fragrance that has spring just waiting underneath.) I Saw Goody Proctor with the Devil *from the Salem Collection (Listed Notes: Dragon’s Blood, Champaka Flower, Exotic Spices, Ancient Spellbooks, and a Smouldering Cauldron) What I was hoping for and what called to me: There's no denying it the ancient spellbooks, exotic spices and smouldering cauldron notes listed had to come home to me. I'm hoping for a dark gloomy scent for windy rainy days that I love more than anything else in September to early November. In the vial: DRAGON'S BLOOD and METAL. I'm getting that "rosy and tidy" scent from Baba Yaga (with perhaps more black smoke in the background) and I'm loving what I can smell right now. Applied: It took me forever to figure out what a certain note was that amped on my skin and reminded me of powdery bubbles from a wand and I believe it is dragon's blood. Just like in Baba Yaga (which helps me fall asleep after long nights at work and have the most pleasant vivid dreams) I Saw Goody Proctor with the Devil opens with that "rosy and tidy" note combination but has a sharp metal note and spice thrown in. I also detect leather (sadly no ancient paper though). I like this but in comparing it to Baba Yaga which smells very similar I'll take my Bone Mother over Goody any morning but I will wear this some cold thunderstorm filled night this October. *SuperNatural Hair Serum-Holiday 2017 Collection (You'll Shoot Your Eye Out!)- soon to be a feature post (just been waiting for my Resurrection Sale order to appear in my mailbox which should be next week), it's absolutely divine and so aptly named as this magical hair elixir brings the otherworldly shine, scent and softness to my tresses. On that note: Speaking of waiting for parcels, can you guess what I just ordered and what could have possibly called to me? *article updated December 25th 2017 to include link to 2018 Resurrection Sale details Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ sixteen92.com/collections/sample-sets Combined Thoughts: I may have just found the holy grail of different autumn scents and history based fragrances for myself by stumbling upon this unique site that is named after the Salem Witch Trials of 1692 (https://sixteen92.com). Much of this site's creative scent potions are based on dark legends, movies, seasonal themes, the supernatural, rock groups, book characters, or historical figures but they also have an impressive range of gourmands and florals including The Art and Olfaction Awards Winner 2017 "Bruise Violet". Depending on what the curious may be looking for, you can easily break down the category search by choosing warm weather scent to cold and atmospheric and even sweet and fruity. Their general sample sizes are extremely generous (2ml) and the packaging is also notable (seriously how can you not fall in love when a company sends you a fabulously creepy postcard with a daguerreotype of a veiled ghost?) Needless to say I'm quite smitten and can't wait to share my additions to my collection and thoughts on each. So please feel free to get comfortable as I have 2 orders to run through (with a planned out third soon to be purchased) and to play into the creative diversity of what this site can offer, I will be randomly picking up, wearing and jotting down my thoughts on the various collections. *for these reviews I have forgone the "Words that come to mind" section as these are personal experiences and a few words are not enough to summarize each vial. One scent at a time: Sarah Good *from the Salem Collection (Listed Notes: Charred maple leaves, black pitch, fresh-baked bread, dried black tea leaves, sweet orange, chimney smoke) What I was hoping for: For my first venture into this exciting looking brand, I was intrigued by everything I saw but with Sarah Good, in general, the bread note with leaves and chimney smoke caught my attention first. I have no idea what to expect so this will be a treat indeed. I can't wait to see how a perfume based on an actual tragic figure of history is interpreted in scent form. In the vial: BREAD and LEAVES with a back PITCH SWEETNESS. This is so unique and I have no idea what this will do with my skin chemistry. Applied: I sorely wish I found this perfume company earlier as this is such a marvellously freaky scent for October into November (as always I'm late to the party). Right away I get the bread note that is like a stone baked loaf with leaves rustling at the door. I also get the orange which surprises me because orange hardly ever shows with my chemistry and as this sits it almost smells like petite madeleines (but that may be from the buttery morphing trick my chemistry sometimes plays and believe me I'm loving this right now). As it dries further that orange petite madeleine scent is disappearing (curses) and Oh, I'm detecting some tea leaves with dirt (there must be some patchouli in this). This is quite an interesting perfume as it seems to transform and the bread with leaves and pitch (maybe that's the woodsmoke but it also smells like unswept ashes?) with the slightest hint of orange now remains. This fragrance lasts a good bit and I can even detect it the next day with the final notes of dirt (patchouli) and bread which acts as a personal comfort double surprise that is hard to explain but ultimately I appreciate and absolutely love. I really enjoy this perfume and this is a great start to my introduction to the Salem Collection and Sixteen92 Baba Yaga *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Fiery dragon’s blood incense, sweet woodsmoke, dried herbs, dripping candle wax, forest dirt) What I'm hoping for and what called to me: As I mentioned this brand also likes to dabble in folklore and puts a spin on its interpretations and as I have been fascinated with Slavic folk stories ever since I was tall enough to reach the library shelves or old enough to point at covers, I couldn't pass on this hopefully familiar wicked crone of the forest. I'm still learning about notes, what they do with my personal chemistry and dragon's blood incense has appeared in quite a few perfumes I have been curious about- I've read it can smell like lilacs which would be heaven for me (still on the hunt for that perfect perfume). Hopefully, this also has patchouli for the earthiness and the candle wax doesn't attach to my chemistry too much (as for some reason my chemistry likes to amp). In the vial: I'm not sure what I'm smelling it's a collection of ancient mystery, it's not smokey and it's not floral or spicy it has a scent category all its own. Applied: Right away there is a sharpness or medicinal quality but that quickly is swept away and becomes something completely unexpected which is powdery bubbles with a hint of candle wax and maybe rose? Perhaps this perfume taps into and conforms to your secret comforts and yes powder or any rose and pretty rainbow shifting bubbles from a wand are three of my secret forgotten comforts (judge as you will but you could have entertained me for days as a child if you gave me a bottle of bubbles to blow into the winds and the powder and rose reminds me of a missed loved one), the candle wax is just an unfortunate thing my chemistry always latches onto but is not overly noticeable at the moment and is not that bad. Hours later I am finally getting the earthiness and something is definitely reminding me of a soft rose. It's actually quite lovely not scary or a sharp scent. I think I may be safe if I wore this to work as they have a very strict fragrance policy (one complaint and you're told to go home and wash- that would be mortifying) but Baba Yaga can fly with me as, despite the name, on me this is a refreshing calming scent and who could complain when you smell not clean but "tidy" with a touch of rose? Now please keep in mind everyone's chemistry is different and I've read so many reviews about varying experiences with this particular perfume, so mine may just be unique with it smelling "rosy and tidy" vs. "sinister" or "conjured from some evil cauldron". I do wish the herbs or smoke appeared on me but I must realize as my oil collection grows it is good to have unexpected ranges of fragrances and I will certainly keep this, I'm always on the hunt for scents that can help me fall asleep in the morning after bracing the long night hours and I think this Bone Mother would bring me pleasant dreams. Telesthesia *from the 2017 Winter Collection (Listed Notes: Black and red tea leaves, nutmeg, sweet woods, forest moss, loam, chilled night air) What I'm hoping for and what called to me: I was fortunate enough to stumble across Sixteen92 right before their huge Black Friday event (with coupon codes) and after enjoying my first parcel of goodies, I decided to have one final hurrah this year with my pocketbook. Telesthesia was a last minute addition to my basket before checking out for the night. The listed nutmeg with forest moss, loam and chilled night air had to come home to me and I'm hoping to find another atmospheric supernormal wonder. In the vial: TEA, STONE and a distant wisp of MINT that adds to the coldness. This is another nifty find. Applied: The nutmeg comes out to charm me first along with the stone and various leaves but as it dries I get a pepper note that I can't stop pressing my nose to as I'm sitting here reading. Hours later I can still detect every seemingly simple note that carries its own depth and I am clearly getting bergamot (bee balm) this morning that is like rubbing your hands over a long stalk and getting that citrusy spice note but there is also some damp earth attached to the roots and that can only come from my old friend patchouli. This will be joining my collection dedicated to reading and relaxing. You'll Shoot Your Eye Out! *from the Holiday 2017 Collection (Listed Notes: Spiced cocoa, firewood, bayberry, warm shortbread, Ovaltine, buttered rum, deep snow) What I'm hoping for and what called to me: There's no denying it the use of an iconic quote from my favorite Christmas movie caught my attention when I saw this perfume released November 24th and I had to put this in my basket. I am a little nervous the spiced cocoa will disappear on me before I even get a chance to enjoy it (my nose adores the note but my chemistry makes it fade so fast). I also had to ask someone what Ovaltine smells like as I'm a little too young to know. In the vial: Nostalgia that is malted chocolate (Nestle Quik mix but is called Ovaltine here; too bad this wasn't available when I was a child this smells tasty), why didn't I get the full bottle? Ohhhh fuuuuuuuudge! This is delicious smelling and I'm so thankful there is no punishing Lifebuoy soap hidden anywhere (yes the amount stupid useless trivia in my head is endless) Applied: I am under some type of spell with Sixteen92 as this is THE first time chocolate is staying with my chemistry! I can't believe it, there must be magic mixed with the vial and I'm so thankful for it as this is just so luscious and my chemistry is amping the buttered cookie note to create a chocolate buttery delight that I don't want to leave the house without. As it dries I faintly get the wood note and a hint of bayberry that deepens this and the creaminess stays true until the next day. I am seriously tempted to get a full bottle AND the hair serum of this (feature post coming soon- it's unbelievable and something I can't stop telling everyone about and getting so many compliments about). Blood & Honey *from the General Catalogue (Listed Notes: Blood orange, wildflower honey (vegan), pale amber, honeysuckle) *this was a bonus sample that appeared in my first order (thank you so much Claire) and is inspired by the Jazz Age. In the vial: Three classic beauties: HONEYSUCKLE, ORANGE and HONEY. It matches perfectly to summer in the 1920's but is ultimately a very memorable timeless feminine scent. Applied: This is such a channelling fragrance as the first name that came to mind when I put this on was Zelda Fitzgerald and in turn, I must mention Daisy Fay Buchanan (the character Zelda is strongly believed to have inspired in The Great Gatsby), it's strangely magnetic and even a little extravagant. Once again Sixteen92 surprises me as this perfume captivates my imagination and works with some unseen power on my chemistry because the orange and honey are staying and not turning waxy. The honeysuckle is just lovely, the amber light but romantic and I would love to own the supernatural hair serum in this fragrance for summer because I would be a beautiful little fool whenever I wore it. ~*~ Part II Sixteen92 sixteen92.com/ sixteen92.com/collections/sample-sets 2017 has brought me a whole new world of discovering perfume oils and as I'm still exploring different houses and what they can offer when it comes to oils and exclusive opportunities, I'm finding out new information every day. For example, SIXTEEN92 holds an annual sale called a Resurrection Sale where they bring back past favorites for a certain amount of days and their menu of aromas is amazing ranging from the downright spooky atmospheric to spring florals and foody experiences somehow conjured into a bottle. With so many notes to research and scent potions to think about, it's a good thing we have time before January 1st to decide (here's hoping those like me who are new to the utterly entrancing realm of perfume oils have some intriguing sounding gems planned on joining their collections and find plenty of inspiration to share later.) One more little tidbit I have to share is the SIXTEEN92's The Circle program which more and more I'm becoming curious about and I may just throw caution to the wind and join next April (a secret parcel of goodies delivered to my door with every change of the season, sign me up now please!) I read an article recently that said this house of perfume is planning some nifty tarot theme perfumes and that is only the beginning as they come up some creative notions for scents every season (I wish I found them last year, they did a famous haunted location theme and I have been trying to hunt down a sample set ever since I read about it). That's all the information I have about this unique house's programs at the moment so without further ado here is part II of my reviews for Sixteen92. As always, thank you for reading, -EGP One scent at a time: Psychokinesis *from the Winter 2017 collection (Listed Notes: Toasted vanilla bean, espresso, sweet myrrh, roasted pecan, honeyed wheat, citrus zest) What I'm hoping for and what called to me: It shouldn't surprise me that just like my personal interests that seem to change every day my choice of personal fragrance also changes daily and this particular night I'm ordering on, I want foody winter gourmands. Psychokinesis seems to catch my attention with not only the name but with the toasted vanilla bean, sweet myrrh, roasted pecan and espresso listed. In the vial: A specialty brew of PECAN ESPRESSO with a hit of VANILLA, it is very concentrated but is perfect for the cold weather outside. Applied: Once again my personal chemistry works against what I want to love as this perfume lasts not even an hour. When first applied though I get the roasted pecan and vanilla and it reminds me of enjoying a pecan tassie with a cup of hot espresso nearby. There is a sweetness that stays mildly which is the myrrh but I have to put my nose right on my wrist to get a wisp of it. Even though Psychokinesis has moved off my skin, I think this perfume would be a fine hopeful to be purchased in the SuperNatural Hair Serum that I can't stop using (luckily finicky perfumes seem to last longer in my hair and I love walking around in a halo of sweet winter delights). Tituba *from the Salem Collection (Hawthorn, gingerbread biscuits, tobacco leaf, burning resins, rye, sweet woods, beeswax candles) What I'm hoping for and what called to me: This was another selection I made based solely on the sweet notes listed with a mixture of woods and resins. As always I'm nervous about the beeswax candles or tobacco dominating everything but my curiosity outweighs my concerns and I will try this. In the vial: RESINS, HONEY and BEESWAX CANDLES, I can also detect tobacco in the background. Applied: There is a wash of honey and resins that is somehow familiar and the tobacco adds a slight smokiness to the mix. As it dries the candle note comes out more but perhaps not all candle notes are created the same because this is actually decent and as time goes by in this the beeswax note reminds me of a special holy supper or a holiday family candle that always graced the table at different times of the year with a fruit placed near the display as well. Add another to the cache for reading and relaxing. The Castle on the Hill *a limited edition fragrance that was available during the 2017 Black Friday Event but is scheduled to appear on the Resurrection Sale fragrance menu coming January 1st 2018 (Listed Notes: Frost-blanketed vines, worn stone, cold fog, dark shadows, petrichor, weathered attic wood, grey musk) What I was hoping for and what called to me: When I first started looking into Sixteen92 this was one of the initial perfumes that pulled me out of the shadows and had me planning ahead for November 24th. I have no idea what to expect but this fragrance sounds so interesting with the listed notes and I can't think of a better first bottle choice from this brand to join my vanity. In the bottle: STONE, EARTH, COLDNESS absolutely bizarre and excellent in every way. This really smells like you walked into a cold ancient castle on a forgotten hill. Applied: I really don't like to compare other houses of fragrances with one another but if Gaea by Alkemia Perfumes is the early awakening spring showers in my book than The Castle on the Hill by Sixteen92 is the autumn storm mash that I can feel such mood and electric atmosphere from. Two of my favourite seasons and weather types in two different packages. With The Castle on the Hill, right away I get the cold stone element and then I get a shiver when the "fog note" comes out with the earthiness that is the base at the moment. This is what I would imagine the abandoned castles, stone manors or abbey ruins in the UK smell like during a frigid rain storm. Right now my mind is wandering into the Glastonbury Tor and then walking the fog-draped moors to Haworth. I will be using this gem sparingly and alternating it with Gaea by Alkemia Perfumes for pure atmospheric reading immersion experiences. I have found the ideal oils to use when I have a gothic or a certain era mystery novel in my hands. *SuperNatural Hair Serum-Winter & Holiday Collection (Frosted Gingerbread)- soon to be a feature post, it's absolutely divine and so aptly named as this magical hair elixir brings the otherworldly shine, scent and softness to my tresses. sixteen92.com sixteen92.com/collections/sample-sets |
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28th of January 2023) NOTES/COMBINATIONS and Stones CURRENTLY ON THE HUNT FOR: Naughty Licorice/Star Anise Cardamom Cardamom Cake with Roses Smoky Honey & Leather Leather and Florals Pomegranate Colder Tuberose scents Smoked Florals with Cinnamon and Honey Graham Cracker and Incense Double strand of Rose Quartz or Moonstones or Black Tourmaline Chainmaille Jewellery Houses of Fragrance and Interest on the Horizon (shops that contain such temptations): LurkerAndStrange Good Spirit Wolf Rapt In Maille ToadStoolSoaps DSH Perfume Baphomet&Co Harvest Moon Haven Granny Hootenanny's Shop
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